C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS NOVEMBER 2010 NO. 182 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore
TIME TO RE-THINK
ST. VINCENT
— See story on page 14 WILFRED DEDERER NOVEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 NOVEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 Ad Sales - Debra Davis ...... 41 Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Ad Sales & Distribution - Maurice Moffat Distribution - Bryan Lezama Distribution - Gladys Jones Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222 [email protected] Martinique: 696 93 26 38 Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) [email protected] St. Lucia: Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720 8432. [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe: Ad Sales - Stéphane Legendre Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik Ad Sales & Distribution - Chris Bissondath, spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed Mob: + 590 690 760 100 [email protected] Distribution - Eric Bendahan Tel: (599) 553 3850, [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Tel: (784) 457-3527, [email protected] Tortola/BVI: Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Tel: (868) 222-1011, Cell: (868) 347-4890, [email protected] Venezuela: Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448 [email protected] Ask Captain Science ...... 34 Science Ask Captain ...... Book Review 36 ...... 37 Cruisers Cooking with ...... 3 Readers’ Forum What’s on My Mind ...... 42 Calendar of Events Caribbean Marketplace...... 43 ...... Classified Ads 46 ...... 46 Advertisers’ Index !” But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole ISSN 1605 - 1998 Compass near you! DEPARTMENTS gets our message to the sailors by — Linda Phillips Doyle Sailmakers BVI, Ltd. www.doylesails.com covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, Compass “ keeping the publication interesting and current, with lots of must-read articles. “Thank you, We support free speech! noresponsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts and clarity.responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length this publication,©2010 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of Publishing Ltd. except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass is published monthly by welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. Compass Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution - Doyle Sails can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore. can use. We’re Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch Caribbean Compass Info & Updates ...... 4 Info & Updates ...... 7 Business Briefs Eco-News...... Caribbean 10 Regatta News...... 12 ...... 22 Meridian Passage 31 Fun Pages...... 30, ...... 32Sailors’ Hikes ...... 32Dolly’s Deep Secrets ...... 33 The Caribbean Sky Caribbean Compass See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. Caribbean Compass 175 BQ,Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. 457-3410 Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Erdle Editor...... Sally [email protected] Ollivierre Assistant Editor...... Elaine [email protected] Hopman Advertising & Distribution...... Tom [email protected] Dederer Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Compass Agents by Island: Antigua: Tel (268) 720-6868 [email protected] Barbados: Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600 Curaçao: [email protected] Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 Dominica: Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected]
VAN HETEREN nd the nd A Green Dinghy ...... Solar power and sail 27 Future Captain ...... 28Seeking a career at sea Lost and Found .....One J/24’s big adventure 29 Click Google Map link below to fi www.caribbeancompass.com NOVEMBER 2010 • NUMBER 182 NOVEMBER 2010 •
The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore The Caribbean’s
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078& COLLAERT ...Circumnavigating Jamaica 24 Clearing with Fido ...... Cruising rules for dogs 20 Miles of Smiles In the Zone ...... A Panama Canal trip 18 Cover photo by Wilfred Dederer, Wallilabou Bay on the Leeward side of St. Vincent Cover photo by Wilfred Dederer, Wallilabou NOVEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 Gloria WellsfromHillsboroughSecondarySchoolhavebeguntheirstudiesatthe McLawrence andLeahHagleyfromBishopsCollegeCamilleDeRoche Regatta Festival. week ofAugustattheCarriacouYachtClub,coincidingwithannual nesspeople. Since2000,CCEFhasconductedfundraisingactivitiesduringthefirst individuals fromvisitingyachtsaroundtheworld,andconcernedlocalbusi- Director oftheCarriacoucampusTAMarryshowCommunityCollege Trevin McLawrence,CamilleDeRoche,LeahHagley,GloriaWellsandFleurePatrice, Left toright:NadiaEdwardsandCodellStafford(2009scholarshipwinners)with &Updates Info The CCEFcontinuesthisyearwithanadditionalsetofscholarships:Trevin The CarriacouChildren’sEducationFund(CCEF)isaninformal,voluntarygroupof Yachting CommunityProvidesScholarshipsinCarriacou needs ofthelessfortunatechildrenisland. Club. Contributionsarevoluntaryandallproceedsusedfortheeducational password isrequiredandyachtscanobtainafreeattheCarriacouYacht Ward. AllthatisaskedforvisitingyachtstomakeacontributiontheCCEF!A Cruising Guides,andIslandWaterWorld.TechnicalsupportisprovidedbyMichael Bay itisfreethroughthesponsorshipofTyrrelYachtHaulout,ChrisDoyle’s assistance forthefutureleadersofGrenada,CarriacouandPetiteMartinique. vided toprimaryandsecondaryschoolchildrenofCarriacouinthepast,targeting These scholarshipsatTAMCCareanextensionoftheassistancethatCCEFhaspro- ing “thankyou”tothepeopleofCarriacouforwarmwelcomealwaysreceived. yachts andthelocalpopulationwhosupportCCEF,isyachts’wayofsay- 500 cases.Successisdueprimarilytothehardworkandgenerosityofvisiting child toreceiveapropereducationandwhatthefamiliescanprovide. help asmanychildrenpossibleandtofillthegapbetweenwhatisrequiredfora plies andothereducationalassistancetothechildrenofCarriacou.Themissionis ing andreviewingtheessays. branch oftheGrenadaUnionTeachers,assistsinprocesseveryyear,collect- ents basedonCXC/CSECscoresandfinancialneed.PatrickCompton,Carriacou principals ofthetwosecondaryschoolsinCarriacou,selectscholarshiprecipi- opportunities fortheyouthofGrenada.RholdaQuaminaandBrianLendore, better Grenada”,andtheprimaryfocusforallstudentshasbeendevelopmentof Martineau iswiththeBoardofTourism. Carnisha Charles.MarciaScottisemployedbyBullen’sEnterprisesandReann Rena NoelareworkingatHillsboroughSecondarySchool,asStaceyBainand bring to13thenumberofscholarshipsawardedbyCCEF. well asastipendofEC$1,000towardsthepurchasetextbooks.Thesestudents Carriacou campusofTAMarryshowCommunityCollege,withfulltuitionandfeesas —Continuedonnextpage Guard vesselwasonstationinLosTestigosandtookareportoftheincident. Ellen sailedbacktoLosTestigos,arrivingjustbeforedark.AVenezuelanCoast ers, chartplotter,GPS,otherelectronics,tools,bikes,outboardengineandmoney. they couldcarryintheir16-footpiñero—includinganEPIRB,allradios,twocomput- to hisneck.TheboardersransackedtheSunOdyssey40,takingallvaluableitems tunately, hisinjurieswerenotserious.Theyalsoclickedthetriggerwithgunheld gunpoint. ThepiratesstruckJimintheheadandbackseveraltimeswithapistol;for- directly intoPorlamarfromthenorth. area, butwhensailingfromGrenadawindconditionspreventedthem Porlamar, IslaMargarita.Thecoupleaboardhadoriginallyplannedtoavoidthe half hours’sailwestoftheVenezuelanoffshoreislandsLosTestigos,enrouteto October 16thatapproximately011°05N,063°23W.Theyachtwasaboutfouranda The US-flaggedyacht Yacht AttackedOffLosTestigos In someplacesvisitorscanexpecttopayUS$10ormoreperdayforWiFi.Tyrrel Since itsinception,CCEFhasprovidedassistancetowardsthisgoal To date,CCEFhasraisedmorethanEC$125,000toprovideuniforms,schoolsup- Each studentwritesanessayonthetopic“HowIwillusemyeducationtobuilda Previous awardeeshavealreadyputtheireducationtogooduse:TaheraPauland With nolandinsightandonlyacompassleftonboardfornavigation,Jim The two-handedcrew,JimHutchinsandEllenBirrell,wereassaultedheldat Boldly Go wasattackedbyfourarmedmenat10:00
in morethan AM on NOVEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 and with it singlehanded in memory of his mother. It was writes: One of the boons of this writes: One of from the dock in St. Maarten, Argonaut Sunset Lady Hoppy in St. Maarten. Prior to this he had been the epit- in St. Maarten. Prior to this , and set out on his own personal odyssey of self-discov- Mermaid of Carriacou Blue Peter The Wizard of Id KEES STAPEL aboard the John A. Smith Kees was foremost a sailor and a happy man. But more importantly he was my man. But more importantly a sailor and a happy Kees was foremost was overbearing. Euphemistically speaking, for Kees, life But one thing Kees was not but divinely touched, and as a consequence Kees was perhaps a bit ‘touched’, Holland in the early 1930s and grew up under the Kees was born in Rotterdam, just finished a multiple-year stint as captain of the I met him in 1972 when he had the boat, but Kees hadReturning to Florida he hit a reef in the Bahamas and lost ‘sea-gypsy’ lifestyle that I have lived for the past 42 years is the great diversity of past 42 years is the great that I have lived for the ‘sea-gypsy’ lifestyle dozens of I have known people from met and often befriended. people I have scientists, cooks, fishermen, lawyers, a hundred professions — doctors, countries and — but I an occasional ‘Indian chief’ painters, teachers and even writers, poets, Stapel. anyone else quite like Kees have never met and children people. He loved women everyone’s friend. He loved friend. Kees was met him, and affected everyone who ever all walks of life and he and people from from all over the world. Kees became their friend and that is thousands of people often, with women, their lover. teacher and confidant, and He never had to brag or tell a lie. Kees, like Popeye, was never a “pissing contest”. maybe — well, no, definitely — a hell of a lot more. was just what he was, and and he did it without even trying. He was one of the he was always a bit magical… time brutally honest people I have ever met. I will most sensitive and at the same who knew him, and his legacy still affects us. Even assume this applies to most he is still with us — and that is why I will not, I cannot, though we mourn his passing, is Rather I will write this small “orbituary”, because that write an obituary about him. be: in orbit somewhere! To paraphrase Neil Young, “He what he was and always will on someone’s mind”, and so can never really be sleeps with angels; he is always and among those who knew and inevitably loved him. gone. He will always be with fortune for having known him. I celebrate his life and my good a Like many of his countrymen, he went to sea as both heel of the Nazi occupation. a world that had gone completely mad. profession and an escape from famous Dutch schooner captain working as both an ome of the clean-cut, well-groomed, four-stripe yacht the 1960s and ’70s changed advisor and agent for many shipping firms in Miami, but boat hippie and, in a lot of us, including Kees. He became the ultimate Caribbean peace over economic the manner of Bernard Moitessier, chose happiness and when aboard was naked. He gain. He let his hair and beard grow and often as not bought the old Piver Nimble catamaran renamed it the Caribbean remember him ery — and what a journey it became! Most people in from this period. He later bought the sloop well into his 60s. around the globe, completing his voyage when he was soon found himself aboard amade too many friends to be left on the beach and so small wooden cutter which he renamed while aboard this vessel that he met the Great Pilot who ultimately led him across thewhile aboard this vessel that he met the Great Pilot who love and friendship it seemsfinal bar and into his last port. As Kees enveloped us in his a vessel that represented forright that he spent his last few years enveloped aboard years before had broughthim the shelter and love of his mom. Just as she so many his way into a better one.him into the world, I would like to think that her spirit eased So take care, Brother Man Kees was one of a kind and I know he is still here in orbit. — I love you. —Continued on next page Leopard to learn . . Deeply involved in all www.yachtaidglobal.org Rebecca . JIMMY SCOTT, JAMARLY MEADE John Burnie reports: Yachtsmen visiting the and Oliver’s Marina, Captain Oliver’s Yacht Club Oliver’s Marina, Captain Oliver’s The Captain and Captain Oliver’s Regatta. de vivre” and lived by the mantra “La joie he touched to encouraged all whose lives be dearly embrace the lifestyle. He will condo- missed. The SMYC extends sincere lences to the Captain’s family and friends. Antigua Yacht Club this season will be sad to learn that long-serving barman Jimmy Scott passed away with great dignity after a long illness. His friendly welcome in the upstairs bar since 1987 will be much missed. Equally sad is the club’s loss of one of their full-time sailing instructors, Jamarly Meade, who suc- cumbed very suddenly to an aggressive form of leukemia at the age of 22. An accomplished Laser sailor (he qualified as RYA Instructor at UK Sailing in Cowes), Jamarly was a key part of the recently launched Antigua National Sailing Academy and was frequently invited to crew during regattas on iconic yachts, including 3 aspects of the Antiguan yachting communi- ty, Jamarly will be missed. www.youtube.com/watch?v=sMKKkpLreXw Continued from previous page Continued from Eight Bells CAPTAIN OLIVER newsletter announced the passing of Olivier Lange, The Sint Maarten Yacht Club Cruisers’ Site-ings new website: Marina in Roatan has a • Fantasy Island a film about the Marine Protected Areas in the • ‘Sanctuaries of the Caribbean’, Aid Global humanitarian organization is a worldwide • Founded in 2006, the Yacht The Coast Guard then escorted the yacht to Porlamar, stopping two piñeros with to Porlamar, stopping two then escorted the yacht The Coast Guard between Los the ongoing danger of sailing to remind cruisers about Ellen would like Among the four Caribbean sailing personalities to whom we say farewell this month is AYC Instructor Jamarly Meade, who died on July 17th aged 22 better known as Captain Oliver, on September 25th. He was the founder of Captain on September 25th. He was the founder of Captain better known as Captain Oliver, how to take an active role in this charitable project. how to take an active role www.fantasyislandmarina.com/index.html earlier this year as part of the Coastal and southeastern Caribbean, produced in the Southeastern Caribbean project, can Marine Management and Education at now be viewed on YouTube uti- medical supplies to coastal locations that need help, effort to deliver school and who coordinate logistics, patrons that sponsor the sup- lizing a network of volunteers to transport them. Visit plies, and yachts that offer four men in each during the trip; neither of these piñeros contained the men who of these piñeros contained during the trip; neither four men in each robbed the yacht. hours. Margarita during daylight Testigos and Isla — NOVEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 Sunday at2:35 begin onDecember12th.CaribbeanAirlinesflightBW529willdepartJFKevery between NewYork’sJFKAirportandTobago’sCrownPointInternationalwill informational conferences. development ofindustry-specifictechnologies;andconveningeducational government; disseminatingtimelyinformation;encouragingandassistinginthe maritime interestsbeforegovernmentbodies;actingasliaisonbetweenindustryand ty oftheUnitedStatesandinternationalmaritimecommunitybyrepresenting senting maritimeindustriesthroughouttheworld.Itsmissionistoadvancesecuri- the yachtingmarinahostcountries. maritime industrytoserveasavectorforthesuccessfulintroductionofthreatsinto cation totheyachtingindustry,andreduceopportunitiesforthissectorof and 8th. at theYachtHavenGrandeMarinainSt.Thomas,USVirginIslandsonDecember7th Trinidad’s businesscommunity,mainlyinChaguaramas,Jackwasauniqueposi- to discoverTrinidad.Beinganexperiencedinternationalsailorandveryfamiliarwith together adirectoryfortheincreasingnumbersofforeignboaterswhohadbegun TIDCO (nowknownastheTourismDevelopmentCompany)forhishelpinputting and Bonaire,alwayscomingbackforCarnival.In1995Jackwasapproachedby new yachtiestothemanyactivitiesandencouragethemjoinin. love ofCarnivalledJackmanyyearslatertoputonseminarsintroduce and Carnival,JackCathyenteredthoroughlyintotheCarnivalexperience.This come eastfromCartagena,ColombiaviaVenezuela.ArrivingjustbeforeChristmas Cathryn, andlefttogosailingagainuntilheresumedworkinTrinidad1995. ond retirementcamein1985whenhemethissailingpartner—laterwife San Franciscowhereheresumedhisoldjobandboughttheboatoutright.Hissec- the ratraceandflewbacktoStates,leavingJacksailsinglehanded owner ofa32-footsailboatcalled left hisengineeringjobinCaliforniaandsailedtoHawaiiforthegoodlifewithaco- Trinidad &Tobagoagentofthe monthly Directory to livecloserhisfamily.Jackwastheeditorandpublisherofannual nections throughouttheUSandCanada. — Flight BW528willdepartTobagoat7:35 Planning acrewchangeorfamilyvisitinTobago?AnewCaribbeanAirlinesflight New Tobago-NewYorkFlight For moreinformationvisitwww.maritimesecurity.org/meetings.html. The MSC,establishedin1988,isanon-profit,member-drivenorganizationrepre- The focusofthiseventistoidentifysecurity“bestpractices”appropriateforappli- The MaritimeSecurityCouncilwillhostits2010YachtIndustryConference 2010 YachtIndustrySecurityConference For thenextthreeyears,JackandCathycontinuedtotravelbetweenTrinidad Jack firstcametoTrinidadin1990,thisbeinghisAntillesportofcall,having This willactuallybethethirdretirementforJack.Thefirstonewasin1982whenhe Jack Dausend,a20-yearresidentofTrinidad,isretiringandmovingtoArizona,USA Fair Winds,Jack! For moreinformationvisitwww.caribbean-airlines.com. Continued frompreviouspage Boca , whichrecentlycompletedits15thyear.Healsostartedthepopular magazine,whichranfortenyears,aswellbeingthelong-time PM andarriveatTobago’sCrownPointInternationalAirport7:30 Caribbean Compass Wind Psalm AM , arrivingJFKat12:40 . Aftersixmonthshispartnermissed . PM , allowingforcon- Boaters’ PM . section, pages43through45. Lucia, onpage36;andInboardDieselServiceofMartinique,intheMarketPlace knows! WewishthebestoflucktoJackandCathyinsunnyArizona. he oversawalltheartwork,layoutandprintingof enjoyed everyminuteofitwithhishands-onapproach.Togetherall-Trinistaff, degree inElectricalEngineering,hehadalottolearnaboutpublishingbut businesses. HavinggraduatedRensselaerPolytechnicInstituteinNewYorkwitha turned itovertoJack,whothensetaboutlearningtheadvertisingandpublishing and Cathyswallowedtheanchormovedashore. wearing hisredcrickethat.AftermanyhappyyearslivingatanchorTTSA,Jack familiar figurewhilehewalkedaroundtownandtoallthemarinascontractors, tion tohelpsetupaveryhelpfulguideforvisitingyachtsmen.Hequicklybecame Look out,Arizona! Chaguaramas toprominenceintheinternationalcruisingcommunity. Jack DausendsailedintoTrinidadin1990andwasinstrumentalcatapulting Good tohaveyouwithus! In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! At theageof77,Jacknowisassumingthiswillbehislastretirement—butwho After thefirsteditionof Compass wewelcomenewadvertisersTiMangerestaurantofSt. Boaters’ DirectoryofT&T provedtobeasuccess,TIDCO Directory andlaterthe Boca . NOVEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 For more information see ad Halfway down the west coast of St. Halfway down waters of Mooring in the clear pristine Lucia on the popular Anse Cochon Lucia on the popular addition to the pictur- Beach is the new Ti Manje esque Ti Kaye Village Resort: name sug- restaurant and bar. As the simple foods gests, they serve tasty and and local for both visiting yachtsmen Restaurant boaters. A stop at Ti Manje Rodney on the way to the Pitons from the doctor Bay in the north is just what prescribed for the weary sailor. and the res- the bay is simple and safe, Szyjan Named Yacht Broker in Grenada Richard Szyjan is the newly appointed Richard, originally from Larmor-plage in On your next visit to Grenada, don’t hesi- For more information phone (473) 439-4495 agent for Bernard Gallay yacht brokerage. His office is located in the recently com- pleted Port Louis Marina in St. George’s Lagoon, Grenada. Brittany, has lived in the Caribbean for 20 years and heads Turbulence Ltd. This Grenada-based company, with a staff of 20, provides sailmaking, rigging and elec- tronics services for yachts (see ad on this page). tate to pay Richard a visit, either at Port Louis Marina, or at the Turbulence shops at Spice Island Marine Services and Grenada Marine. or visit www.bernard-gallay.com. on next page —Continued
AM . Open PM to 5:00 PM
Insurance Consultants of Grenada Launches Web-Based Policy Insurance Consultants of Grenada Launches Web-Based on the website of An easy to use web-based proposal form is now available For more information see ad on page 33. Just Say ‘YES’! YES has started afresh! YES (Yachting New Beach Bar/Restaurant in St. Lucia New Beach Bar/Restaurant Ti Manje offers a waterfront dining experience at a price you can afford, from 1000 dining experience at a price you can afford, from 1000 Ti Manje offers a waterfront on page 36. For more information see ad Just Because Summer’s Over… reason to forget about insuring your yacht. Summer is over, but that’s no offers customized insurance coverage, personal claims Offshore Risk Management For more information see ad in the Market Place section, pages 43 through 45. For more information see ad in the Market Place section, Better Shipping and Storage Services storage, inland To offer you the best services in shipping, business or household In addition, CIRExpress has just upgraded its automated e-mail cargo arrival notify- With weekly sailing from Miami, CIRExpress, based in St. Maarten, now also has a Caribbean Freight Systems, c/o CIRExpress 3775 NW 77th St., Miami, FL. 33147 Tel (305) 836-2878, Fax (305) 836-2581 E-mail: [email protected] / [email protected] For more information see ad in the Market Place section, pages 43 through 45. Insurance Consultants of Grenada, www.iclgrenada.com. The form can be filled in Insurance Consultants of Grenada, www.iclgrenada.com. response with competitive on-line and e-mailed back. Their aim is to provide a fast terms and conditions using A-rated security (AM Best). Engineering System) of Martinique offers a new look and new products for the 2010/2011 season. Here is a list of their new products: inside/outside waterproof LED lights; solar equipment (new solar panels 130w, MPPT regulators, decorative lights, etcetera); new porta- ble, compact and quiet generators; wind turbines, batteries, and more. Come and see the new products either by dinghy via the Artimer channel, now marked out with green and red beacons, or by car (a big parking area is at your disposal). The new products will be available this month. Open from Monday to Friday, 8:30 on page 9. taurant’s burgers and fries, salads and fish dishes, not to mention ice-cold beers and salads and fish dishes, not to mention ice-cold beers and taurant’s burgers and fries, priced. Ti Manje does boatside orders, too, which can cocktails, are all reasonably restaurant directly at 456-8118 or via VHF channel 16. be arranged by calling the hours to 1700 hours every day. service, expertise since 1972 and lower insurance costs.
to12 noon and 2:00 BUSINESS BRIEFS BUSINESS Saturday mornings during high season. alliance with freight, and courier services, CIRExpress has sealed a strategic speed, reliability and effi- Caribbean Freight Systems/Laparkan, guaranteeing the ciency that you demand. ing service, so you can track in real time the status of your cargo as it arrives in CIRExpress’s warehouses. new address in Florida: NOVEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 [email protected] www.abcboatsnv.com Caracasbaaiweg 158-CuraçaoNeth. Antilles Ph (+5999)4614476 Fax (+5999)4614925 ALL YOU NEEDFORBOATING &FISHING without compromisingqualityandservice. That ishow ABC MARINEwasborn. Open Monday-Friday08.30 -17.30 On Curaçaotherewasaneed for aninexpensiveChandlery Saturday 09.00-13.00
Guadeloupe. has wonacompetitivebidtodevelopnewmega-yachtrepairandrefitcentre in in themanagementofrefitprojectsforyachts80metres(262feet)andlonger, arrive atthefinishof2010RouteduRhum transatlanticraceinearlyNovember. Guadeloupe. dock abletoaccommodateyachtsup 46metres(150feet)willbeavailablein (459-foot) drydockinMartinique,butitis hoped thatbyearly2011anewfloating services forthevessel,officersandcrew. space. There,IMMcanprovideanyrepairs afloatandwillalsoprovideallnecessary metres (427feet).Thesiteincludesalarge hangarwithofficeandrelatedworkshop water quaymeetingISPSstandards, aim ofthebidwastoupgradefacilitiesinGuadeloupeforlargeryachts.” companies responded,”saysMarcGautieroftheGuadeloupePortAuthority.“The — date, anditssuccessisvitalforthecontinuedthrustinthisever-developingindustry.” yachting industrypie.SaysPortiaMogal,“ARCisSt.Lucia’sbiggestevent to to seemorelocalparticipationasSt.Luciaattemptstakeabiggersliceofthe well afootwithotherstojoinintheeffort.HoweverIGYRodneyBayMarinawould like and St.LuciaYachtClubhavecomeaboardwithsponsorship,discussionsare and TEMhaveagreedtomakeappearances.Allthat’sneedednowarethecrowds! the docksandatbusinesspremises.LocalbandsFourthWorld,OffIsland,Groove mers, fire-eaters,andstudentsoftheSchoolMusicalreadyslatedtoperformon a localflavour,withgroupssuchastheHelenFolkDancers,masqueraders,drum- provide thegoodsandservicestheyarefamousfor.Culturalentertainmentwillbeof bakes andcocoa-tea,whilethepermanenttenantsofMarinawillcontinueto more. Othervendorswillprovidelocaldelicaciesincludingcrabbacks,accras, glass works,hand-carvedmasks,soaps,jams,LucianexpressionT-shirtsandmuch first ARCboats.Vendorsinthevillagewillbeofferinglocallymadeproductssuchas features oftheMarina,includinglightingmega-yachtberths. structed onthenewBoardwalkalongwater’sedgetoshowcasebeautiful Village Themeandfocusonlocalculturemusic.TheARCwillbecon- Marina’s Marketing,SalesandEventsManager.Thisyear’scelebrationwillfeaturea ARC”, anaccoladethemarinahighlyappreciatesforajobwelldone. Year, too.Asaresult,RodneyBayMarinahasbecomeknownasthe“Homeof stay —whichinmanycasestooktheChristmasseasonandwellintoNew event, andprovideddocking,security,servicesentertainmentthroughouttheir Marina, hashostedthethousandsofparticipantswhohaveparticipatedinthis activities forARC2010.OnarrivalattheMarina,partyingwillbegin. set sailfromCastriesHarbourtoRodneyBayMarina,aspartofIGY’spromotional same dayinSt.Lucia,acommemorativeARCflotillaoflocalandvisitingboatswill Las Palmas,GrandCanaria,markingthe25thanniversaryofevent.Onthat espresso oreveningdrink. decor isaconversationpieceallitsownwhenmeetingfriendsforanafternoon formerly unavailableviatheexistinggroceryoutletsonisland.Themodern marketed asofferingawideselectionofAmericanbrandsandproductsthatwere M&C Drugstore.AnotherhighlightofthemallisGLFoodmarket,whichhasbeen West, branchesofCastries-basedstoresAccessandTaxi,Digicel,Courts include new-to-St.LuciaMAC(theinternationalcosmeticbrand),USPoloandNine on October1st,with20ofthe70storesopeningtheirdoorstocustomers.Theoutlets complete withtheconvenienceofafive-storeyparkinglot.Asoftopeningwasheld anticipated, muchtalkedaboutBaywalkMallinRodneyBayVillageisnowopen, Steen Ingerslev,RYAPublicationsManager,explains. cient salesthenitbecomeshardertosustainprofitmarginsandproductionlevels,” harder forcompaniestoproducecost-effectivepapercharts;iftherearenotsuffi- easy touseandprovidedetailedinformationforlocalizedareas.” ing theverychartsthatsupportleisuresailor.Thesearelightweightand by thisannouncement.BydiscontinuingtheSmallCraftEditionsUKHOarepull- and theRYAChartPlotter. SC808, whichwillbewithdrawnfromsummer2011),AdmiraltyLeisureToughCharts, Folios, AdmiraltyLeisureEditions(excludingSC2036,SC2045,SC2656,SC2669and Caribbean Sea. this month,anumberofchartsincludingtheAdmiraltyLeisureFoliosfor to restructuretheAdmiraltyLeisureproductrange.Thiswillinvolvephasingout,from newsletter, theUnitedKingdomHydrographicOffice(UKHO)hasannouncedplans For moreinformationvisitwww.imm-yachting.com. IMM’s facilitiesinGuadeloupeareliterally inthemiddleofwhereboatswill For contractsrequiringdrydocking,thecompany willhaveaccesstothe140-metre Located atPointe-à-Pitre,thenewfacilitywillhavea300-metre(984-foot)deep- International MarineManagement, Mega-Yacht RepairFacilityforGuadeloupe At thetimeofwriting,WindwardIslandsBreweries,Digicel,St.LuciaTouristBoard, The Villagewillopenfromthe10thto17thofDecember,directlyafterarrival However thisyearwillbedifferent:“Biggerandbetter,”saysPortiaMogal,IGY For thelast20ofpast25yearsARC,St.Lucia,andspecificallyRodneyBay On November21st,theAtlanticRallyforCruisers(ARC)setssailSt.Luciafrom Rodney BayMarinaPreparesFor25thAnniversaryARC When youcometoSt.Lucianowhavemoreshoppingoptions.Themuch St. Lucia’sBaywalkMallNowOpen “The increaseinuseofdigitalcharts,andariseprintcostshavemadeitlot Stuart Carruthers,RYACruisingManager,says,“Wearenaturallyverydisappointed Also tobephasedoutthismonthareothernon-UKandIrelandAdmiraltyLeisure According totheSeptember8theditionofRoyalYachtingAssociation(RYA) UKHO DropsCaribbeanChartFolios Continued frompreviouspage
The biddingwasheldfromOctoberlastyear.“Someteninternational
and eightbuoymooringsforyachtsupto130 (IMM), acompanyformedin2007tospecialize NOVEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 either Rodney Bay or Marigot time you dock in St. Lucia at to find an upgrade be pleasantly surprised Bay, you might and beverages. A in the supply of food at those marinas St. Lucia Seminar: by Shayne Perri Provisioning is KeyProvisioning
to Building Yacht Tourism to Building Since the 1960s, when yachtsman Walter Boudreau opened the Hurricane Since the 1960s, when yachtsman Walter Boudreau opened now offers 32 slips Hole Hotel, Marigot Bay has been growing. The Marina and 20 moorings Yachting officials acknowledged that St. Lucia is at the infancy stage of the mega- Bob Hathaway, the manager of The Marina at Marigot Bay, says, “St. Lucia is the Despite the positives, there are challenges that the St. Lucian yachting sector is St. Lucia’s yachting product includes many highlights, which makes the island a This 20-percent increase in yachting arrivals he is referring to is for the IGY Rodney McHale Andrew, the Executive Vice President of the SLHTA, spoke on the eco- In the tourism industry in general, basic information is valuable, like the location ofIn the tourism industry in general, basic information is St. Lucia has been able to host yachts over 80 feet since the latter part of the St. Lucia has been able to host yachts over 80 feet The Consultant Director of Yachting for St. Lucia, Cuthbert Didier, says, “The Yachting for St. Lucia, Cuthbert Didier, says, “The The Consultant Director of
The purpose of the seminar, which was attended by 50 delegates from the sectors attended by 50 delegates from the seminar, which was The purpose of NEXT NEXT yacht industry, but this should be used as an advantage, particularly when it comes to creating strong linkages with the local agricultural supply chain to minimize the level of imports required. And it is this marriage between agriculture and tourism that is necessary for the improvements to food and beverage provisioning aimed at increas- ing the number of mega-yachts and other yachts that use St. Lucia as a base. fastest growing yachting destination in the Eastern Caribbean and attracts all sizes and types of yachts from participants in the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers up to the largest mega-yachts afloat today. This growth provides an opportunity for the farm- ers and fishers of St. Lucia to use our wonderfully fertile lands and seas to provide the highest quality produce to these yachts and add to their yachting experience with real Caribbean food and drink.” facing. In addition to the ability to provision the yachts, which is being tackled head on, there are bureaucratic and administrative procedures — not only in the importa- tion of goods, but also Immigration-wise — which restrict St. Lucia from becoming a major southern charter base in the Caribbean. great locale for berthing. It has spectacular geography and excellent infrastructure including marina facilities and hotel resorts, and well-placed special events on the St. Lucian calendar including St. Lucia Jazz in May and St. Lucia Carnival in July. Bay Marina exclusively. Other statistics to justify the St. Lucian yachting product are a direct contribution to GDP of US$40 million, with 130 businesses directly involved, 450 persons directly employed, 700 persons indirectly employed and the linkage with all aspects of the economy. nomic strength of the yachting sector: “I made the point in stating that what tourism does, is it expands markets. With respect to yacht provisioning, the evidence is very strong that the yachting sector has been increasing its overall share of the tourism market in St. Lucia but also has been the fastest growing sector within tourism. Even in 2009, when we had very sluggish overall tourism arrivals (a 5.8 percent decline), yet in the yachting sector we had an increase of over 20 percent in that same year.” the nearest supermarket or where to buy fresh fruit. These are the things that notthe nearest supermarket or where to buy fresh fruit. to know, but also the crew- only the guests on the visiting cruising yachts would like vessel has a crew of some 42members of the charter and mega-yachts. A 350-foot — namely the patronagemembers and their economic spillover into the local economy tourism product. of restaurants and bars — is another spin-off of this water-based 1990s. The infrastructural upgrade to the IGY Rodney Bay Marina in 2007 encour- 1990s. The infrastructural upgrade to the IGY Rodney but to base themselves here ages mega-yachts to spend not just a few nights in port, do not yet view the yachting for the entire November to May season. For persons who analogy to consider is that sector as a bona fide part of the tourism industry, an are the concierge, therefore yachts are like floating hotel rooms and the marinas information to high-end food marinas should be outfitted with everything from basic should be on hand. and beverage provisioning as a range of amenities that seminar’s main focus was to deal with provisioning and to bring all the parties to deal with provisioning and to bring all the parties seminar’s main focus was Customs and the Ministry together. That includes all the service providers, including infrastructure, now we need of Agriculture. We have done a great job in building the one.” to improve on the services — and provisioning is a key of agriculture, fishing, wholesale and retail grocery outlets, importers, shippers, and grocery outlets, importers, fishing, wholesale and retail of agriculture, provisioning to quality of food and beverage Excise, was to improve the Customs and To accomplish this, steps include educating and sen- the island’s yachting market. and private and public sectors, defining the existing sitizing stakeholders in the sec- recognizing business opportunities for the private potential market more clearly, measures that will enhance the market. tor and identifying public sector seminar held in mid-September, hosted by The Marina at Marigot Bay in collabora- by The Marina at Marigot in mid-September, hosted seminar held St. Lucia Hotel of St. Lucia (MIASL) and the Industries Association tion with Marine provisioning on the improvement of yacht Association (SLHTA) focused and Tourism on the larger yachts. with special emphasis NOVEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 e-mail: [email protected]/68 Tel (784)457-3507/457-3527(evenings) (northern sideofAdmiraltyBay) Located oppositeG.Y.E. Nanny Cay, Tortola, BVI Located neartheentranceofNanny Cay
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A S —Continuedonnextpage able beachherefortheturtlestofind.” who arestudentsnowwillberesponsible forensuringthatthereisstillasuit- turtles comebacktonestonthesamebeach in20ormoreyears’time,thoseofyou Wilson waspresentatthereleasewith his studentsandcommented,“Whenthese books andotherteachingmaterialsabout seaturtles.GeographyteacherMarcus tected reefsoftheTobagoCaysMarinePark.” return tocoastalwatersandwe’llstart to seethemfeedinginplaceslikethepro- live formanyyearsatseaandthen,when they’reabout30centimetreslong,they the openoceanwheretheyhideinamongstfloatingseaweedandstartfeeding.They We wanttoensurethattheycomebackthesewatersinfuture. to settheirinternalcompasssothattheyknowwherereturnlayowneggs. the sand.It’simportantthattheygettorundownbeach,aswebelievethishelps Network (WIDECAST)explained,“Aftertheyhatch,seaturtlesmakeadashacross Emma Doyle,representativeoftheWiderCaribbeanSeaTurtleConservation the turtlesintotheircareandwerehappytomindthemuntiltheycouldbereleased.” wandering aroundandtheybroughtthemtousatthehotel.Thestaffimmediatelytook recently happenedwith15hatchlings.“Somelocalchildrenfoundthebabyturtles bars andhotels. wrongly followartificiallightingwhichleadsthemontoroads,pathwaysand into now acommonproblemthatturtlesandtheirhatchlingsbecomedisoriented and the openoceanhorizon.Butwithhumandevelopmentonandaroundbeaches it’s menced theirjourneyouttosea. tourists marveledasbabyhawksbillturtlesmadetheirwaydownthesandandcom- through 45. Fishers areaskednottocatchCharlie! to bettercomprehendthelifecycleandrangeofthesemagnificentseacreatures. provide researcherswithcrucialdataoftheirwideoceantravelsnestingturtles, that electronictagsonturtleshavenocommercialvaluewhatsoever.Satellite [email protected], specifyingwhereCharliewasseen.Thepublicshouldknow photos, ifpossible,andtoreporttheKidoFoundationat(473)443-7936ormari- been cruisingtheSouthernGrenadines.AnyonewhospotsCharlieisaskedtotake animals indeepwaters. Kido Foundationbyprovidingaboatcaptainandthespeedboatforreleaseof tagged inCarriacouhavebeenfoundNorthCarolina,GuadeloupeandNicaragua. Foundation hasrescued,taggedandreleased287endangeredseaturtles.Specimens (www.barbadosseaturtles.org) andtheGrenadaFisheriesDepartment.TodateKido them beforerelease.DatacollectedarepassedontotheBarbadosSeaTurtleProject Southern Grenadines,examinedtheturtlesforwounds,thenmeasuredandtagged Oyster BedMarineProtectedArea(SIOBMPA). waters, werepurchasedbyKidoFoundationforreleaseinsidetheSandyIsland forms ofoceanlifeintheCaribbean. Sanctuary willconsiderablyenlargesafehavensformarinemammalsandother sanctuary initiativewithFrance. Bank, thatwouldpermitpartoftheregiontoconcludeajointmarinemammal within theirestablishedMarineProtectedAreas,ofwhichthemostrecentisSaba of themotherspiritwatersinAmerindiantradition,Maïd’Agoa. time zoneof138,000squarekilometers.Thissanctuaryisnamed“Agoa”,inhonor in earlyOctober. Marine EnvironmentoftheWiderCaribbeanRegionheldinMontegoBay,Jamaica the ContractingPartiestoConventionforProtectionandDevelopmentof on theActionPlanforCaribbeanEnvironmentProgrammeand11thMeetingof territorial watersoftheislandsMartiniqueandGuadeloupe. has beenannounced.OneislocatedattheSabaBankandothercomprises WIDECAST presentedthehotelstaffand UnionIslandSecondarySchoolwith “The tinyturtlesthengothroughaswimmingfrenzyforcoupleofdaystoreach Currently workingonUnionIslandfortheTobagoCaysSeaTurtleAssessment, The chefattheBougainvillaHotel,MarciaRichards,describedthatthisiswhat When seaturtleshatch,theirfirstinstinctistoheadtowardsthenaturalglow of On October3rdatduskBelmontBeachonUnionIsland,localstudentsand Turtles ReleasedinUnionIsland,Too For moreinformationonLumbadiveseeadintheMarketPlacesection,pages43 Presently, ahawksbillturtlenamedCharlie,carryingsatelliteelectronictag,has Lumbadive PADIResort,adivecenterlocatedinHarveyVale,Carriacou,assists The KidoTeam,whichactstopreserveecosystemsandencourageeco-tourisminthe In September,twomaturehawksbillturtles,caughtinalobsternetCarriacou Turtles ReleasedinCarriacouMPA These jointinitiativesandthatoftheDominicanRepublic’sSilverBankWhale The NetherlandsAntillesstatedthattheyweredevelopingamanagementplan France reconfirmedtheestablishmentofaMarineMammalSanctuaryinmari- The announcementsweremadeatthecombined14thIntergovernmentalMeeting The officialestablishmentoftwonewmarinemammalsanctuariesintheCaribbean France andNetherlandsDeclareCaribbeanWhaleSanctuaries CARIBBEAN ECO Carriacou freeahawksbillturtle Off yougo!Well-wishersin -NEWS NOVEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 18.25.50N 18.25.50N 69.36.67W • Showers, Laundry, Restaurant, 24 hr security • Showers, Laundry, Restaurant, for clearance • Immigration office in the marina • Free WIFI and Free Internet • Dinghy Dock • 12 miles East of Santo Domingo Airport & 7 miles East of International FOCAL POINT FOR CRUISING YACHTSMEN FOR CRUISING POINT FOCAL
THE iiiii Z
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aaaaa MMMM Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Marina Zar-Par • High Quality Sheltered Moorings • Slips to 120’ with depth 10’ • 70 Ton Travelift (30' beam) • ABYC certified machanics • Shore power 30, 50 and 100 amps • All slips with fingers Continued from previous page Continued from For more information on Project Aware visit www.projectaware.com. If you’re interested in participating in marine clean-ups and contributing data to the Project AWARE inspires thousand of divers to be ambassadors for the underwater Every year an estimated seven billion tons of debris enter the world’s oceans. The Bequia diving community, local companies including Tradewinds Cruise Club, The Bequia diving community, local companies including Bequia Businesses Join Coastal Cleanup Day Coastal Cleanup Day Supported by PADI Americas, the annual International For more information about the Tobago Cays Marine Park contact Olando Harvey on For more information about the Tobago Cays Marine Park For more information about the Barbados Sea Turtle Project For more information about the Barbados Sea Turtle Project According to Olando Harvey, TCMP Marine Biologist, “The workshop was extreme- According to Olando Harvey, TCMP Marine Biologist, In addition to scientific techniques, workshop participants discussed threats to sea In addition to scientific techniques, workshop participants Dr. Karen Eckert, Executive Director of WIDECAST, which is an international sci- Dr. Karen Eckert, Executive Director of WIDECAST, which The workshop provided an opportunity for the TCMP trainees to learn from BSTPThe workshop provided an opportunity for the TCMP University of the West Indies Professor Julia Horrocks, Director of the BSTP, com- University of the West Indies Barbados Turtle Project Trains Tobago Cays Staff Barbados Turtle Project Trains (TCMP) recently took part in an international train- The Tobago Cays Marine Park For more information about sea turtles and how to help them survive sea turtles and how to help them survive For more information about Anyone finding disoriented hatchlings should place them in a bucket with some hatchlings should place them in a bucket with some Anyone finding disoriented Ms. Doyle described that beachfront hotels, bars and homes can make small bars and homes can that beachfront hotels, Ms. Doyle described Critically endangered by unsustainable levels of use and the loss of habitat, levels of use and the loss by unsustainable Critically endangered Divers display their Project AWARE Certificates of Recognition for clean-up participation Global Marine Debris Index, contact [email protected] or phone (784) 458-3504. world. A continued drive for strong consistent data is the key to help inform, reform, educate and legislate. Annually, nearly one million birds are killed by aquatic litter and an estimated 100,000 marine animals, including dolphins, whales and sea turtles, choke on or get tangled in debris. bringing water-based businesses together we can take care of the oceans that pro- vide us with work, play and happiness.” and residents celebrated International Cleanup Day on September 25th by contrib- and residents celebrated International Cleanup Day on the local businesses help uting to marine debris data collection. Dive Bequia asked Foundation, a non-profit to target underwater and shoreline debris. Project AWARE events. Polly Philipson, Dive environmental organization, spearheaded the cleanup Bequia Cleanup Organizer, said, “This year we found suitcases, microwaves, build- ing materials and an ironing board amongst lots of plastic items and fishing line. By reaches more than 15,000 volunteers in more than a hundred countries throughout reaches more than 15,000 volunteers in more than a the world. (784) 485-8191. visit www.barbadosseaturtles.org. ly valuable because it focused on practical approaches to management issues that ly valuable because it focused on practical approaches awareness. It was useful we all face, including limited resources and a lack of public share practical ways to solve for us to gain first-hand experience in Barbados to common management issues.” turtle survival and shared ideas about how to reduce these threats, which range turtle survival and shared ideas about how to reduce eggs to pollution and the loss from the illegal hunting of sea turtles and poaching of for successfully increasing of nesting habitat due to coastal development. Strategies were also shared. public awareness of the protected status of sea turtles entific network comprised of sea turtle experts, natural resource professionals andentific network comprised of sea turtle experts, natural countries (includingcommunity-based conservationists in more than 40 Caribbean “Barbados was selected toBarbados and St. Vincent & the Grenadines), noted that there is an excellenthost the training workshop because the research conducted turtle population monitoringexample of a professional, long-term approach to sea throughout the Caribbean,— it’s exactly the kind of thing we’d like to see implemented protected areas.”and especially within the boundaries of the region’s marine staff about the various techniques used to catch sea turtles for research and censusstaff about the various techniques used to catch sea turtles the hand-captured turtles,purposes. During fieldwork, trainees tagged and measured released the endangered ani- practiced filling out standardized reporting forms, and staff on nightly beach patrolsmals back to the sea. Trainees also accompanied BSTP at this time of year. to document sea turtle nesting and hatching, which peaks mented, “Barbados has achieved quite a lot of success in protecting its sea turtles, quite a lot of success in protecting its sea turtles, mented, “Barbados has achieved with colleagues from other and we are always pleased to share what we’ve learned and St. Vincent & the islands. Because sea turtles move freely between Barbados ensure their survival.” Grenadines, it’s important that we all work together to ing workshop convened by the Wider Caribbean Sea Turtle Conservation Network the Wider Caribbean Sea Turtle Conservation Network ing workshop convened by Sea Turtle Project (BSTP). Designed to share (WIDECAST) and the Barbados with staff and partners of the TCMP, the workshop Barbados’ sea turtle expertise the Areas and Associated Livelihoods Project of was funded by the Protected States to develop capacity in the TCMP to con- Organisation of Eastern Caribbean assessments. duct sea turtle population visit www.widecast.org. damp sand (not water) in the bottom. On Union Island the public can call staff of the bottom. On Union Island the public can call staff damp sand (not water) in the the Environmental Attackers, who will help to release TCMP, Grenadines Dive or dark beach. In other parts of the Grenadines, contact hatchlings safely at a suitable, Officer and WIDECAST Country Coordinator Lucine the Fisheries Conservation Edwards on (784) 456-2738. changes in their lighting to help stop hatchlings from getting disoriented. Low- hatchlings from getting disoriented. lighting to help stop changes in their are more “turtle- rather than white and vapor lights are yellow pressure sodium aren’t visible or shielding them so that they the direction of lights friendly”. Angling motion sen- their lives safely. Similarly, also helps hatchlings to start from the beach save money, when people are around beachfront lights on only sors that switch help save turtles. reduce coastal lighting, and hawksbill turtle populations worldwide have been reduced by more than 80 percent been reduced by more populations worldwide have hawksbill turtle hundred years). (the equivalent of about a sea turtle generations over the last three — NOVEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 Back-to-school timeisfun—whenyouracedinghiesintheVirginIslands! Harbour toRodneyBayMarina,witheveryone welcome. (ARC) willbeheldinStLuciaonNovember 21st—afunflotillasailfromCastries 16th, 1776.TeamStatiaisbeingsupportedbytheTourismDepartmentofisland. salute totheUnitedStatesflagbyaforeignpowerwhenshearrivedonNovember a copyoftheDeclarationIndependencetoSt.Eustatius,receivingfirst-ever Eustatius (Statia).DuringtheAmericanRevolution,brigantine Rock Regatta,whichwasfoundedtohighlightthehistoricaltiesbetweenUSand St. Golden RockRegatta2010havedecidednottosailthenorthernroutefromAnguilla ninth editionoftheRouteduRhumwasscheduledtodepartonOctober31st. ing thisyearinthe3,500-milesoloracefromSt.Malo,FrancetoGuadeloupe.The highlights ontheFrenchyachtingcalendar.Morethan80skipperswillbecompet- teams tobuilduponthegreatsuccessofthisyear’sevent. the roundrobins,toduelforfirst. Waters winningthirdplace.ThisleftBaileyandRathburn,thetwohighestscorersin and LeoVasilievoftheUSA. Sunday morning,leavingfourqualifiersforthesemi-finals:Rathbun,Bailey,Waters no weatherdelays,andtheround-robinqualifierswereracedalldaySaturday weather waskind,withvaryingwindconditionstochallengethecrews.Therewere was justoffNannyCayMarina,providinganidealvantagepointforspectators.The boats, withentriesthisyearfromtheUSA,St.Thomas,CroixandBVI.Racing Andrew Watersandhisteam,alsofromtheBVI. defeated WilliamBailey’sSt.Thomasteaminthefinal,2-0.Thirdplacewentto Yacht ClubonOctober2ndand3rd,waswonbyColinRathbunoftheBVI.Histeam runner-up ScottMckenzie,bothalsofromSt.Thomas. from St.ThomasYachtClub.AdvancedFleetwaswonhandilybyColinBrego,with was wonbyJulianvandenDriesscheandrunner-upSkylerAnspacher;bothare into twofleets,AdvancedandGreen,withatotalofsevenracesrun.GreenFleet regatta, stagedatNannyCayMarina,Tortola,forthefirsttime.Theracingwassplit —Continuedonnextpage cell number,andnumberofcrewmembers. e-mail [email protected]:nameof boat,detailsofskipper’snameand you havemorecrew,canpurchase extratickets. snacks atTheBoardwalkBarinthemarina foruptosixcrewmembersperboat;if REGATTA NEWS Meet inCastriesat9.30 A symboliccelebrationoftheofficialstart ofthe25thAtlanticRallyforCruisers St. LuciatoCelebratetheStartofARC,Too! For moreinformationvisitwww.goldenrockregatta.com. After consulting with local sailors, charter companies and sponsors, organizers of the After consultingwithlocalsailors,chartercompaniesandsponsors,organizersofthe The GoldenRockRegatta2010ChangesCourse For moreinformationvisitwww.routedurhum-labanquepostale.com. The RouteduRhumtransatlanticraceisheldeveryfouryearsandoneofthe Route duRhumTransatlanticRaceSetsSail For moreinformationvisitwww.rbviyc.org. For nextyear’stenthanniversaryoftherace,RBVIYChopestoattractmore The bestofthreeracesresultedinfurthereliminationforWatersandVasiliev,with The ninthrunningofthisinvitation-onlyeventwasracedinone-designIC24keel- The annualPeteShealsMemorialMatchRaceRegatta,hostedbytheRoyalBVI Colin RathbunWinsPeteShealsRegattaforRecord4thTime! For moreinformationvisitwww.rbviyc.org. On September25th,theRoyalBVIYachtClubhelditsannual‘BacktoSchool’ Royal BVIYachtClubBacktoSchoolRegatta Free registration!Putthefollowingdetails asacommentonthisFacebookeventor and Statia Anguilla, St.Barth’s sails fromSt.Maartento memorializing thisevent First salute.Theregatta AM . Therewillbecomplimentarypost-flotilla drinksand take part in the Golden take partintheGolden from theislandofStatiawill 13th to17th. takes placefromNovember regatta. Thisyear’sevent to joininatanypointofthe rounding islandsareinvited Participants fromthesur- going fromislandtoisland. Rock Regattahasfourraces Barth’s. OfficiallytheGolden route toGustavia,St. Tintamarre andSt.Martinen Channel, passingbetween sail uptheAnguilla to St.Barth’s,butinstead For the first time, a team For thefirsttime,ateam Andrew Doria brought brought NOVEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 is racing the regatta for DSK Pioneer Investments, : Andy Peters, Chris Alexis, Mike Bingley, Lucy Murchie, The RORC Caribbean 600 is the best offshore race in the world,” said The RORC Caribbean 600 is the best offshore race in the Tulaichean II “ at The Boardwalk Bar. at The Boardwalk PM Continued from previous page Continued from Skippers’ Briefing and ticket distribution takes place Friday, November 19th at place Friday, November and ticket distribution takes Skippers’ Briefing ‘Conch Republic Navy’ Heads for Jamaica Next Month ‘Conch Republic Navy’ Heads dubbed the Conch Republic Navy, is expected to arrive A flotilla of some 50 boats, [email protected]. For more information contact Sailing Festival 2011 January Excitement: Grenada 2011 will take place with yacht races from January The Grenada Sailing Festival racing and cruising classes. No boat? No worries! Charter options are available for happens at this regat- Some of the most exciting sailing in the Southern Caribbean For more information see ad on page 12. RORC Caribbean 600: On-line Entry Now Open the RORC Caribbean 600, Online entry opened October 1st for the third edition of enjoy offshore racing,” said “This race is firmly on the calendar for those boats that Italian Danilo Salsi in his Swan 90, La Course de L’Alliance 2010 La Course de through from November 26th presents La Course de L’Alliance Marina Fort Louis four yacht clubs will work together to organize the For the sixth consecutive year, system for this year’s Course de L’Alliance at www. There is a new on-line entry For more information phone Danielle at (758) 718-5010 or Portia at (758) 724-7609, 718-5010 or Portia at (758) phone Danielle at (758) For more information For pre-registration visit www.southgrenadaregatta.com/registration.html. For more information see ad on page 13. Caribbean Rallies for 2011 The sixth Route du Carnival rally, starting at Port du Marin Marina in Martinique and The Transcaraibes rally to Cuba will start in St. Martin this year, instead of in For more information on both rallies see ad in Market Place section. ATTENTION REGATTA AND EVENT ORGANIZERS: We are now preparing our compre- For more information visit www.caribbean600.rorc.org. Grenada South Coast Regatta Set for February south coast, the Grenada Based at Le Phare Bleu Marina on Grenada’s beautiful classes: Spinnaker, Non- There will be racing under the IRC rules in the following 6:00 — in Port Antonio, Jamaica on or about December 23rd. The Conch Republic Navy or about December 23rd. The Conch Republic Navy in Port Antonio, Jamaica on to to allow both seasoned and novice passage-makers Flotilla Sail Along is designed West, Florida to Jamaica. The fleet sets sail from Key West travel flotilla style from Key the flotilla stops for three days in Georgetown, on December 9th. En route, Antonio on December 17th. Following arrival in Bahamas, departing for Port planned, including a New Year’s Eve gala on the Jamaica, a host of events are cruise ship pier. 4th through 6th. Once 28th through February 1st and workboat races from February the yachts’ Home Port for the again, Camper & Nicholson’s Port Louis Marina will be regatta participants. Grenada Sailing Festival, with special docking deals for ta. Join it in 2011! On-line registration is now open at www.grenadasailingfestival.com. interest in the race, which and a serious line-up of offshore racing boats has shown starts in Antigua on February 21st, 2011. Warden Owen. “Many Royal Ocean Racing Club (RORC) Chief Executive, Eddie as a way of crossing the boats are using the ARC race, which starts in November, Atlantic in time to participate in this regatta.” 28th this year, an initiative of Marina Fort Louis in St. Martin to cement the alliance Louis in St. Martin to cement an initiative of Marina Fort 28th this year, and Anguilla. St. Maarten, St. Barth’s between St. Martin, finish at each of the clubs. One of the great things regatta, which will start and/or and fun at each finish location. about this regatta is the camaraderie earlier you enter the easier it is for the organizers to coursedelalliance.com — the finalize the classes! or e-mail [email protected]. Spinnaker, Catamaran, Fun, Traditional and J/24. This event offers great competition on the water and lots of fun ashore for the whole family. taking participants through the highlights of the Windward Islands to finish at the famous Trinidad Carnival, starts on February 27th. Guadeloupe as in previous years. Organizer Stéphane Legendre explains, “It saves the journey from Guadeloupe, which can be lengthy and uncomfortable, and it also gives more time in St. Martin for preparations, provisioning and shopping for chandlery items duty-free in US dollars.” The 12th Transcaraibes rally will begin at the new Marina Fort Louis Yacht Club on April 2nd. hensive Annual Calendar of Events 2011. Send your details today to [email protected] — deadline November 31st. the third time. Danilo after winning the Maxi Division of the recent Rolex Swan Cup in Sardinia. “The Danilo after winning the Maxi Division of the recent Rolex islands to round, beautiful race has everything to offer: wind, warm water, lots of in Italy in February, it’s the scenery and even an active volcano. With cold weather looking forward to it.” perfect time for us to race in the Caribbean, and we are 25th through 27th. South Coast Regatta 2011 will take place from February The crew from Jeanie Parr and Gary Adams. Lucy says, ‘We came second in all three races in 2010. We had a great time, really enjoyed the courses, and are looking forward to next year!’ NOVEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 —Continuedonnextpage Vincent, aswelltheirCustoms/Immigrationpolicies,wereaplusoverSt.Lucia. were annoying“hangerson”.Rulesprohibitingjet-skisandspearfishinginSt. boys inSt.VincentwassuperiortothatweexperiencedLucia,wheremany examining harborsandanchorages,exploringonshore.Theetiquetteofboat ground gaveway.) season. ThreeCzechslosttheirlivesthisJunenearTrinityFallswhenwet,unstable three milesnorthofKeartons.(Bytheway,donotvisitholyplaceduringrainy jaw-dropping hikes.TheirtrailheadsarewithinminutesofChateaubelair,about “bring iton”adventureTrinityFalls,SoufriereVolcanoandotheroffthebeatenpath, tame, easy-accessDarkViewandWallilabouFalls,VermontNatureTrail,to triune blasters.St.Vincent,like“Dominica,theNatureIsland”,hasvariety:from Descending woodenstairs,onpathsofdarkrichsoil,onearrivestothemistfrom through adefunctbutnotdecrepitagriculturalcollegecampusintorainforest. watching TrinityFalls.Thissupernaturalhighisathree-hourhikefromChateaubelair “Nothing likecommuningwiththeFather,SonandHolyGhost”aswesatawestruck boy reputationthatshroudsVincentiankindness. self anddescribingservicesavailable.Succinctpolite,hecontradictedthebad- north ofbeautifulBottleandGlassRocksLeewardSt.Vincent,introducinghim- boats onmoorings. hadn’t methimbefore,buthadapositiveexperienceanchoringasidetwocharter January nightwasduringoursecondpassthroughSt.VincentsinceDecember.We this.” ItwasthesoothingvoiceofOrlando,co-ownerRock-SideCafé.This the ballondeck,”hesaidasstrainedtoliftme.“Rosiaskedmefix had usonthedefensive.Reachingme,mantookholdofourmooringline.“Bring the onlyyachtinKearton’sBay,andSt.Vincent’sreputation,tarnishedbyrobberies, ness, amanslidontosurfboardandpaddledtowardme. to stillthemaddeningtapofplasticballagainstfiberglassbow.Inmidnightdark- St. Vincent Re-Think Leeward From December2009,throughJulythisyear,wesailedSt.LucianandSVGwaters Another day,IsaidtoourSwedishhikingpartnersHenrik,GustavandKristo, This time,OrlandowelcomedusintocozyKeartonsBay,southofWallilabouand “Thiscouldbeverygoodorbad,”Ithought.Myhusband,Jim,andwereon A flashoflightonshoredivertedmyattentionfromtheforedeckwhereIwrestled by EllenBirrell
DESTINATIONS Chateaubelair hasitsrainbowanddinghydock NOVEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15
CRUISING GUIDE PUBLICATIONS
t n a r u a t s e : “As far as I am R
& Cruising Guide to the WindwardCruising Guide
r a Guide to the Windward Islands B
’ h a , our Garmin chart and other cruisers all overtly cautioned against overnight and other cruisers all overtly , our Garmin chart Cumberland Bay, popular especially with the Cumberland Bay, popular especially ownership of one French due to long-time French of the beachside restaurants Continued from previous page Continued from Endorsed by guidebook icon Chris Doyle, safetyandsecuritynet.com is a reli- Endorsed by guidebook icon Chris Doyle, safetyandsecuritynet.com A Fresh Look at Security Facts A Fresh Look in the Windwards, our 2008/09 Before arriving southeast- as safe as other in Leeward St. Vincent statistically Are anchorages n — reported crimes against able source for the Eastern Caribbean. It separates assault, and includes yachts in the region into theft, burglary, robbery and and Trinidad data from “attempts”. A tally of Dominica, St. Lucia, SVG, Grenada Closest runner-up was 2009-2010 shows nine thefts in Tyrell Bay (Carriacou). attempt. Chaguaramas Rodney Bay (St. Lucia) with seven thefts and one Other Leeward St. Vincent (Trinidad) and Wallilabou tied with four thefts each. Bay (Bequia) and St. anchorages had zero thefts. Cruiser favorites Admiralty burglaries. Regarding George’s (Grenada) were the only anchorages with reported Chateaubelair one. Prince robberies, Prince Rupert Bay (Dominica) had two; and Clarke’s Rupert and PSV (Grenadines) had two assaults; Chateaubelair that visitation of PSV Court (Grenada) one each. “You need to take into account Chris Doyle pointed out. compared to Leeward St. Vincent is ten to one,” Regarding his new 2010/2011 Islands cruisers’2006-08 crime reports tainted Leeward St. Vincent. The anchoring in along the traveling north and south St. Vincent anchorages when desire to include but after continues. No place is perfect, potency of that reaction Windwards. The fresh look. for other cruisers to take a we believe it is time weeks in St. Vincent, islands? ern Caribbean concerned, Chateaubelair is the only anchorage on the west coast of St. Vincent concerned, Chateaubelair is the only anchorage on the against.” with a major security problem, and the only one we caution page —Continued on next r o a i c K u
For reservations call: (758) 450-8056 For and takeaways L
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SSt. Lucia D ‘
‘De Kornah’ in Gros Bar & Restaurant out! Islet is a great place to chill De Kornah serves and dinner menu six days a week up a great lunch great prices. drinks at with perfectly mixed the heartBe at of nights. but especially action all week, all the on Friday ‘De Kornah’ Bar & Restaurant Bar & Restaurant ‘De Kornah’ Chateaubelair has its Chateaubelair dinghy dock NOVEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 —Continuedonnextpage a newenvironment.Thethirdisinjailonseven-yearsentenceforothercrimes. wanted. ThesecondmigratedtoNorthAmericaafterhisfamilydecidedgethiminto left thepolicestationduringinvestigationandtookaboatforSt.Luciaisstill and assaultsinhisdistrictfrom2008topresent:“(ofthe...)threeperpetrators,one Association (NLTA),Dr.JerrolThompson,hadtheseremarksrelatedtotherobberies de facto Just as“ittakesmoneytomakemoney”,thesqueezeofcruisers’andcharterers’ deals runamuck,andsailorswhodon’tbehaveonshore,provokingcontempt. gone bad.”Whilethereareunprovokedcrimesagainstyachtsman,alsodrug a farmerrunsoutofmoney,he’llstealfromyachtstogetby.Therearealsodrugdeals After aganjacropissold,ittakesthreemonthsuntilthenextharvest.Sometimes,if official saidcandidly:“No,itisnotcrackthattheproblem.Ganjacropsrunincycles. understand aboutchoosingathrivingmarijuanabusiness? make amiddle-classincome?Withthebananamarketinshambles,whatishardto annual profit,hetoldus,is$50,000.Wouldwebegrudgeanyoneforwantingto mesmerized bycolorsandscale.Iwondered:ConvertingfromECtoUSdollarsthe From hisheavenlyVincentianthrone,oureyeswanderedtheethereallandscape, Our guideansweredquestionsonplanting,harvesting,transportingandmarketing. cal rowsofganja,beans,andmorewemarveledattheagriculturalfeat. whacking broughtusbeyondthereachofagriculturalofficials.Perchedaboveverti- Morne DiablotinsummitorpeaksalongthewaytoBoilingLake.Anhour’sbush- hiked usthroughtwovalleysintowhatwethoughtwasasgloriousDominica’s opportunity andwealth.” Problems comewithpeopleoflittleopportunitymeetingseeminglylimitless is nodangerwalkingaboutthemountainsandfarmsofLeewardSt.Vincent. to tellaboutit.”Twenty-four-yearcruisingveteranJimHutchinsondisagrees:“There South Islandunawares:“Strayingintosomeone’sganjafield,youmightnotcomeout for volcanichikes.Itwarnedthatyoudon’twanttogobushwhackingaroundthe Island ofHawaiiin2002,daysbeforeabusinessmeeting,Ireferredtoguidebook tional tiesthattourismbrings,cocaineisarecentphenomenonforSt.Vincent. cultural export,Vincentiansgraspforeconomicopportunities.Withtheinterna- buying Vincentianbananas,whichcontinuetobetheirnumber-onelegitimateagri- drug dealsandhardenedcriminals.ExacerbatedbytheUKUSallbutcurtailing tries’ demandtobuy,comeinternationaldrugdealersandcrack,creatingharsher the heartofSt.Vincent’s Burglaries atthreeeach:RodneyBayandSoufriere(St.Lucia)Chaguaramas. (Carriacou) had11,PSVsevenandMarigotBay(St.Lucia)fiveplussixattempts. Chateaubelair sufferedwhileChaguaramasgrewinpopularity.Thefts:TyrrelBay the cruisingworld.Chaguaramashadtworobberies/twoattemptsandthreeassaults. glary wasreported,ninerobberiesandtwoarmedassaultsinChateaubelairrocked — Parliamentary Representativeand2001founderofNorthLeewardTourism What areVincentiansdoingaboutit? Scroll aheadto2009-2010:theLeewardanchorages’stillwatersaredeathlyquiet. New ImprovementsontheGround Responding toquestionsaboutassault,drugabuse,andcrack,anSVGCustoms When wewantedtoseetherealSt.Vincent,arespectedlocalguideandfarmer Being awareofthecriminalelementinanydestinationiswise.ArrivingonBig If Chateaubelairisproximaltoastoundingwaterfallsandvolcanichikes,italso The problemtimeforLeewardSt.Vincentwas2006-08.Whilenaryatheftorbur- Continued frompreviouspage boycotthascreatedasilentscreamofeconomicparalysis. numero uno cashcrop,ganja.Drivenbydevelopedcoun- Touch theleavesandthey’llfolduptemporarily Inset: WhenhikinginSt.Vincent,lookfor‘sensitive’plantsgrowinglowalongthetrail. Bringing newmeaningtocollectingrainwater,GustavhydratesonahikeTrinityFalls NOVEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 there are citizen patrols work- there are citizen AM to 6:00 PM When Jim and I anchored in Chateaubelair, middle-aged vendor John told us, “I can- middle-aged vendor John I anchored in Chateaubelair, When Jim and about rolling He is enthused is also SVG Minister of Telecommunications. Dr. Thompson SVG Ministry of Tourism: “We recognize the impor- Vida Bernard, Director of the training included conflict resolution. By 2011, the pro- Beginning in August 2010 Doing Our Part can we cruisers do? Researching benefits and risks If we look in the mirror, what one another. Extend that A universal code for cruisers is checking in and helping expectations. There is a As with any destination, be informed and manage your visitor safety and security at Chateaubelair, since it is a Port of Entry and has the since it is a Port of Entry and security at Chateaubelair, visitor safety and Dark View of Baleine, and Trinity Soufriere Volcano, the Falls best access to replied, “From 6:00 Falls, Dr. Thompson ing directly with police and RRU to keep Chateaubelair secure for yachts.” police and RRU to keep ing directly with are watching.” He minutes. Police on shore your boat for more than five not hang around trained to do. Guide, as he has been he is mentioned in the Doyle reminded us that is an emergency in late 2010. GMDSS Marine Distress Signaling System out the Global Cumberland and and local police in signals SVG Coast Guard alert device that will be useful for cruisers, charter boats, and fishermen. Chateaubelair. He believes it We realize the onus is on us to meet the yachts’ needs. tance of the yachting industry. plane and are greeted first by Customs and Immigration, Unlike visitors who come by waterfront service providers. Since July, 2006, the SVG cruisers’ first contact is with regular customer-service and tour-guide training Ministry of Tourism has supported the North Leeward coast of St. Vincent.” and tourism education targeting expanded into the Grenadines from Bequia to Mayreau.gram will be intensified and windward St. Vincent is scheduled for 2012 completion.An international airport on completion, we can expect to see more yacht charteringBernard adds, “I believe with of direct from Europe and North America.” The Ministry because it will be easier to fly with the Police Department, Coast Guard, ImmigrationTourism has planned meetings They’ve completed a tour of St. Lucia to provide beach- and Customs & Excise officials. first-hand experience of best practices, and conductfront service providers with service and conflict resolution. Like Dominica, St. Vincentannual training in customer to amazing natural phenomena is a strong suit.recognizes that easy access risk-tolerance spectrum, Jim and I consider ourselves beforehand is key. On the after arrival to observe the middle of the road. Do we... stay on board for hours night, normally lifting it out of anchorage? Yes. Lock our dinghy when ashore and at to see how many the water? Yes. (Take a look at www.safetyandsecuritynet.com antenna booster so that we times “unlocked” was noted related to crime.) Have an Lock ourselves in at night? don’t haul our precious MacBook and laptop ashore? Yes. if we are unsure of where No. March with an air of confidence when on shore, even Use “We don’t buy from boat we’re heading? Yes. Do we dress unobtrusively? Yes. Yes. Always use a local vendors, we only shop on shore” line in certain anchorages? in the wild places of the US guide when hiking? No, but we have a background danger of flash floods? Several Intermountain West. Have we abandoned hikes due to are in, understanding locals times. You get the idea: we are present to the place we and Mother Nature. Let’s get real on who’s in charge. on-shore establishments. In to include checking in with local charter companies or Front Restaurant, in Chateaubelair, your contact could be Gail at Beach or Orlando in Keartons Cumberland, someone at Black Baron, Ronnie at Wallilabou, Bay, and so forth. a good physical workout, price for paradise. Be willing to pay it with prudence, of Mother Nature. Leeward patience and empathy for locals and an understanding memories. St. Vincent may be the most incredible part of your Caribbean Continued from previous page Continued from He further explained that in 2003 and 2005, 45 persons were trained in Wallilabou. He further explained that in 2003 and 2005, 45 persons “There is a new tour service. Heritage Nature Tours takes customers from the Nature Tours takes customers tour service. Heritage “There is a new “I believe we are way past those days. In early August this year, the Ministry of early August this year, are way past those days. In “I believe we Dark View Falls, a 20-minute walk from Chateaubelair. Dark View Falls, a 20-minute walk from Chateaubelair. You’ll likely have it to yourselves, as we did In 2006 advanced training began. Responding to yacht robbery and theft problems In 2006 advanced training began. Responding to yacht VHF radios. By 2007, NLTA that year, all local police stations were equipped with formed. A Rapid Response Chapter “Cumberland Bay Tourism Organization” was nightly. “Beach-front Unit (RRU) based out of the village of Layou began patrolling training, certifica- service provider” replaced the term “boat boy”, and best-practices implemented that year. By tions and capturing names into a database were also and Cumberland, and tourism 2008, additional RRU bases started in Chateaubelair and police representa- operators were issued certification cards. In 2009, operators and harbor entrance solar- tives met in Cumberland. They decided to install land When pressed regarding powered lights, a visitors’ center and other improvements. Grenadines wharf in Kingstown to sites in North Leeward including Cumberland, in North Leeward including in Kingstown to sites Grenadines wharf Dark View boat rides to the Falls of Baleine), Chateaubelair jetty (for Troumaca Dam, tour links each La Soufriere volcano). The Beach (for trips to Falls and Richmond professional tour guide.” group with a trained, certified Tourism conducted a refresher course for tour guides in Cumberland, just north of tour guides in Cumberland, a refresher course for Tourism conducted and Troumaca and Cumberland) from Coulls Hill (between Wallilabou. Persons Chateaubelair attitude at Cumberland. attended. There is a brand-new Chateaubelair being placed on these beaches. patrolled. Pay phones are Beach is actively — NOVEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 office bytaxi.Afterourcabdriverfinallyfoundit,hav- bring themtoyourdinghyforfree. domicilio ket managerbeforehand(important!)for taxi driverstrytotakemore.Ifyouaskthesupermar- All ofthetaxifareswithinColonareUS$1,butmost supermarket, Super99—andcomebackwithataxi. US$5 adaytousethedinghydock. copy ofallyourpermitsandboatpapers,youpay Colon. Beforegoingintotowntheywantmakea anchored offtheClubNáuticooneastsideof for ourPanamaCanaltransit. and inafewhoursoursloop, 2010, andIcan’tsleep.WeareanchoredinTheFlats Helena’s Yesterday morningwewenttotheadmeasurers’ You canwalktotheColon2000mall—there’sanice After GlendaandIsailedfromPortobello,we The Preliminaries It’s threeo’clockinthemorningofAugust12th, 22% more (sea)horses 22% more horsepower inthesamepackage. available M200 andM235provides than22%additional more thePerkins M225Ti isdesignedtoreplace Sabre Perkins The everything haseasyaccessforstress-freemaintenance. With Perkins’ outstandingmarinization,excesshosesandbeltshavebeen engineeredawayand with longerlifeandbetterefficiency. charger givesbetterperformanceatlowerrpms. An integralplate-typeoilcoolercombinesfewerhoses The gear-drivenfreshwaterpumphasalongerlifeandlesstogowrongwhilethewaste gateturbo TBO) andquieteroperation. versus thecompetition’s 3300rpmorhigher, theM225Ti willhavealongerlife(minimum12,000hour By comparison,ournearestcompetitiontakesthatoutofa4literengine.Runningatlow 2500rpm This largecapacity6literenginecomesinacompactpackageandonlytakesout225hp. , they’llpackyourgroceriesinboxesand line handlerspreparetotieuptheircompaniontuginoneoftheCanal’ssixlocks by EddyHuybs www.partsandpower.com Helena, Call Parts&Powerforyournearestdealer: (284)4942830 willbemeasured servicio a 079°54’90W. Lookatyourc-map:it’stheendof inspection. ments, suchaslinesandahorn,formeasurement (The Flats)withyourboat,andtellyoutherequire- mally thenextday),time,andwhereyouhavetobe including linehandlers).Theygiveyouadate(nor- copy ofyourboat’sregistrationandcrewlist(not the elevator,officeisonright-handside. and taketheelevatortofirstlevel.Whenyouexit gate automatically.Gotothegarageundertower, gate youhaveabell;ringthisbellandtheyopenthe The busdropsyouoffatthegate,andoppositethis Canal Authoritybuilding,whichisatwo-minutedrive. will betransportedonasmallbustothePanama a registerandwillbesearchedforweapons,thenyou Frente, TorreACP.Hereyouwillwriteyournamesin Puerto deCristobal,Colon,Calle12yAvenidadel the ladyongatewrotedownaddressforme: ing firstgonetoacompletelywrongplacemilesaway, The positionoftheTorreACPis009°21’32N, Very friendly,English-speakingpeoplewillwanta A PANAMA Fit toBeSide-Tied TRANSIT CANAL Sabre M225Ti Sabre M92B M135 M225Ti and Pamfrom and weleaveforTheFlats. I havetocallbackwhenmylinehandlersareonboard and askforMondaymorning,August16th.Okay,but tion withyou. to takecopiesofyourcrewlist,passportsandregistra- Cristobal (Colon)toBalboa(PanamaCity).Remember ies later,andUS$13.50lighter,wehadthezarpafrom zarpa atthesametime.Threeofficesandalotofcop- from thedockseattheretoo. new restaurantwherewecouldeat;lotsofworkers some 200metresofeachother.Thereisalsoabrand- gates togotheadmeasurementsofficearewithin bank andtheOficinadeMaritima(zarpa), check wheneverythinggoeswell.Ifoundoutthatthis and an$891bond—yougetthebacklaterby cost forourboatwasUS$1,500:$609thepassage Náutico, wherewegrabbedacabtotheCitibank.The from BalboaSignalStation,andwentbacktoClub as hewasgoneweliftedanchor,askedpermission you thepaperworktogoandpayatbank.Assoon the paperworktakeabout25minutes;mangives admeasurer, whowasdueat0830.Theinspectionand was abitrolly. breakwater. Becauseofthepassingshipsnight Balboa SignalStationwhenyouareinsightofthe between allthebigboatsanchoredinbay.Call Club NáuticotogoTheFlats,a35-minutepassage intentions tothem. this breakwatereveryboathastomakeclearhis (call signCristobalSignalStation),andwhenpassing your boatatanchor.TheymonitorVHFchannel12 breakwater. ItisclosetoTheFlats,andtheycansee —Continuedonnextpage turns themoff. while hiscrewtiesup.Onceheistied,thetugskipper the tugskipperusesthemtostayagainstwall Close inonlywhenhehasshutoffhispropellers— tied upagaintothetug. When thetugwastiedtonextlockwall,thenwe and theskipperhastopayfullattentionboat. wall, andletthetugpass.Thewaterisveryturbulent cast offfromthetugboat,goslowlyclosetolock a tugboat. we wentinafterabigvesselandtiedupalongside fast —liftanchorandhustletothefirstlock!There the advisorcameonboard,andfromthenallwent complete ourtransitthefollowingday.At1700hours we weretodothefirstlocksinafternoon,and placing extrafendersbetweenthetyres.Itturnsout ting theropesready,coveringsolarpanels,and day wasgone. went tothesupermarket,hadsundowners,and more thanadaytokill.Wetooklunchatrestaurant, had scheduledmypassageforMonday,sowe Sunday morning,alittlebitearlierthanexpected.I My linehandlers—TomandRosefrom The Transit On thethirdday,Iwentashoretocallscheduler Because wewereintheneighbourhood,did The nextday,wewaiteduntil1000hoursforthe Yesterday at1700hourswelefttheanchorage Skipper’s note:Lookatthewateraroundtug. When eachofthethree“up”lockswasfullwewould Next dayafterbreakfastwepreparedtheboat,get- S/V Songbird —cameonboardat1000 S/V Sojourn
NOVEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 BRISBANE NOV - DEC NOVEMBER DECEMBER PAPEETE PAPEETE FEBRUARY - MARCH FEBRUARY VANCOUVER, VANCOUVER, happy Canal Crew after E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] • • TOULON, GOLFITO E-mail: [email protected] • LA PAZ LA PAZ Helena’s NOVEMBER - JANUARY PORT EVERGLADES, PORT There are web-cams in the locks, so we waved to our in the locks, so we waved There are web-cams out to the locks we motored After the Miraflores around 1500 we dropped We motored for a while and miles, used 40 litres Statistics: We did 47.1 nautical very strangely through- Note: my depth sounder acted Canal transit, I real- When I look back at this Panama PALMA DE MALLORCA, PALMA COMPETITIVE RATES Left: The author welcomes advisor Moses aboard for Day Two Below: a trouble-free transit the “down” locks it stays calm. The tourists were mak- it stays calm. The tourists the “down” locks of course with us and taking photos, ing small chat some fruit. I us beer and water and — they even gave we were older woman who asked where talked to an widening; she Australia. I saw her eyes going. I said to it. could not believe transit from who were watching our friends and family their computers. our advisor got picked Bridge of the Americas where done. Thank you, Victor; up. Our advisors’ job was thank you, Moses. Normal cruising life anchor at Brisas de Amador. again. (repairing things) can start engine hours. If I get my of diesel, and put on 12.6 US$609 for the passage entire bond back then I paid two ropes (we had two and inspection, US$30 to rent ten tyres used as fenders already), and US$20 for them for $10). (bought them for $30, sold I know the mixture of salt out our canal transit. Now drives them crazy. After and fresh water in the locks depth sounder switched one day on anchor with the off, everything is back to normal. you lie awake at night. ize it’s not something to make