ARGENTINA The Insiders' Guide

From Iguazu Falls to Tierra del Fuego – and all the hidden treks, lakes, and towns in between. Contents Overview iStock - Grafissimo iStock Contents Buenos Aires Aires Buenos & Surrounds& Overview 3 Patagonia 31 Top 10 experiences in Argentina 3 The Lake District 32 Climate and weather 5 Southwest Patagonia 35 Where to stay 6 Coastal Patagonia 37 Getting around 7

Tierra del Fuego 39 North The Eating in Argentina 9 Cultural highlights and etiquette 10 Outdoor Adventure 40 Safety and scams 12 Hiking and trekking 41 LGBTQ travel 13 Winter sports 43

Visas and vaccinations 14 Rafting, kayaking, and diving 44 Argentina Central Central Camping 45 Buenos Aires and Surrounds 15 Where to see wildlife 46 Local’s guide to Buenos Aires 16 Best road trips 48 Nightlife 19 Off the beaten path 50 Day Trips from Buenos Aires 20 Patagonia Essential Insurance Tips 52 The North 21 Our contributors 55 Northeast Argentina 22 See our other guides 55

The Northwest 24 Need an insurance quote? 56 Adventure Outdoor Outdoor

Central Argentina 26 Central Sierras 27

Cover image: Julián Manrique Manrique Julián image: Cover The Midwest: Mendoza and beyond 29

2 iStock -Grafissimo Welcome! the north to penguin-spotting in the south. the in to penguin-spotting north the variety of adventures, from gaucho culture in South American nation offers an infinite Vast in scale, and scenic beyond belief, this deserts. volcanic and villages, Welsh forests, cloud it’salso Falls Iguazu but – thundering Argentina is tango, the Roy Fitz trek, and the 10 Experiences Argentina'sof Top Picks Insiders' Our whales. and white residents of the area –killer Keep your eyes open for the other black birds. 500,000 some with a-waddle is beach the (September-March) season nesting During America. South in penguins Magellanic colony of Punta Tumbo is home to the largest coast Patagonian the on penguins with out Hang Traditional asado

Argentine barbecue Argentine traditional a Indulge in another planet. another volcanic desert, it’s easy to feel you’re on the lunar expanse Payunia’s of La black, to Humahuaca, Quebradas de the of formations rock polychromatic shaped, strangely the and Grandes Salinas From the blindingly white the of flats Mendoza and Keep it surreal in Salta themselves. by don’t fear –the side dishes are meals all being grilled up. If you’re avegetarian, pork, or even venison, llama, or goat, beef, it’s lamb, whether determines region the – price meat determines the dish: national experiencing the without A trip to Argentina isn’t complete Bariloche El Chalten Mendoza asado Ushuaia Salta (grilled meat). The cut of Cordoba Puerto Madryn Rosario Buenos Aires

Falls Iguazu

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3 Argentina Contents The North The Overview Patagonia

Outdoor Central Buenos Aires Aires Buenos Get a taste of history at a bodegon Buenos Aires offers all kinds of modern, gourmet, and international food, but for a true local’s experience, seek out the bodegones. These are traditional, family-style restaurants that have often been in the same location for decades Contents – places with hand-painted detailing on land-sailing at Barreal Blanco

the windows, old newspaper clippings - piccaya iStock on the walls, and ceilings hung with legs of ham and quirky chandeliers. Discover a slice of Europe Overview This dry Argentina is a country of immigrants, and Hike to a glacial lake lakebed in there are traces of international influence Argentine Patagonia is studded with San Juan everywhere. When you’re sipping tea and alpine lakes of every shade, from jade Province sampling cakes at a Welsh teahouse in Buenos Aires Aires Buenos green to icy blue to deep sapphire. Trek gets winds Gaiman, or drinking German beer in the Surrounds& to iconic Laguna de los Tres, with its of more Bavarian-style hamlet of La Cumbresita, magnificent views of Mount Fitz Roy, or than 75mph you might forget you’re in South America choose one of the lesser-known trails (120kph), for a moment. and discover your own private lagoon. perfect for Try land-sailing

the thrilling North The Ski at the world’s sport of at Barreal Blanco southernmost resort carrovelismo. This dry lakebed in San Juan Province Cerro Castor, in Tierra del Fuego National gets winds of more than 75mph Park, doesn’t have the fame of Las Leñas (120kph), perfect for the thrilling sport or Cerro Catedral – and that’s part of its of carrovelismo – like windsurfing, but Argentina appeal. With fantastic powder and few on land. Once you’ve zipped your way Central crowds, this gem of a resort is worth a across the plains, go stargazing at journey to (almost) the ends of the earth. the nearby Complejo Astronómico El Leoncito – the skies in this area are clear 300 nights a year.

Sip Malbec at the world’s Patagonia highest vineyards Argentina’s Mendoza region is famous Dive into folklore culture for award-winning wineries surrounded at a peña by snowy Andean peaks. But if you There’s more to Argentine dance than

want to sample wine grown at the tango. In the North, gauchos take the Adventure Outdoor Outdoor highest elevation anywhere, head to floor at boisterous folk music parties the Calchaqui Valley in the northwest, that blend Spanish and indigenous where you’ll find vineyards at a dizzying traditions. Spectators are highly 9,842ft (3,000m). encouraged to join in.

4 Climate and Weather Spanning almost 2,490mi (4,000km) in length, Argentina’s terrain is as varied as its

climate, and those regional Contents variations will play a big role in determining the best time to Autumn in Patagonia

travel around the country. Hirsch - Hauke iStock

Summer San Juan for the wine harvest. Early Overview December through February are the autumn is also ideal for seeing fall foliage Winter means busiest months for travel to Argentina. in the Lake District, Southern Patagonia, great skiing In sub-antarctic Patagonia and Tierra and Tierra del Fuego. Weather can be at Argentina’s Buenos Aires Aires Buenos del Fuego, you can expect the average unpredictable this time of year, however, many resorts, Surrounds& temperature to hover around 59°F and be aware that Easter is a peak holiday but heavy (15°C) – in the Lake District, around 70°F time for locals – hotels and tours can snowfall can (20°C). However, these months also bring book up quickly. block many hordes of visitors, so you’ll need to book of the hiking in advance for hotels and campsites and Winter

trails in North The expect more people on the trails. June through August is considered low Patagonia. This is also the only time frame when season in Argentina – the exception is you can expect to climb Aconcagua, the the month of July, which is a holiday for highest peak outside of Asia, found in the many locals. Winter means great skiing Mendoza region. at Argentina’s many resorts, but heavy Argentina

It’s worth noting that while this is the snowfall can block many of the hiking Central most popular season to visit the southern trails in Patagonia. This is also the best regions of Argentina, summer brings time to avoid the crowds at Iguazu Falls. high temperatures, rain, and consequent flooding to the north, making autumn

Spring Patagonia and spring better for exploring that September through November offer region. If you prefer not to swelter, best ideal weather across almost the entire to steer clear of Buenos Aires during the country. Visit the capital, Buenos summer, too. Aires, before the humidity and crowds

descend in summer. The Northwest Adventure Outdoor Outdoor Autumn sees milder temperatures around 70°F March, April, and May are the perfect (20°C). The beaches along the western time for wine lovers to visit the coastline are less packed this time of midwestern provinces of Mendoza and year, too.

5 to Stay Where hotels and hostels. and hotels estancias and posadas accommodation from – for choice when it comes to In Argentina, you’ll be spoiled have shared bathrooms, but others others but have bathrooms, shared houses with just afew rooms). Many other travelers around. around. travelers other be secluded in an apartment with no nice to stay in aguesthouse rather than it’s but sometimes travelers, mid-range Apartments are still agood bet for travelers mid-range For around US $25 ($655 per night. ARS) per night, and double rooms starting beds starting at US $10 ($262 ARS) dining. on money save to yourselves than ahotel –plus, you can cook for rent an entire apartment for far less if there’s agroup of you, as you can Airbnb scams). This is agood option websites like Airbnb (but beware of you’reIf try tighter budget, a on travelers budget For known also B&B, as fincas can stay at estancias you or more boutique-style, tends be to and the Lake District, upscale lodging areas rural In guesthouses. and hostels, budget apartments, hotels, swanky of mix a Mendoza,Cordoba, expect and like Aires, bigger Buenos In cities, Have a lookposadas at You’ll find also hostels with dorm to boutique boutique to (ranches turned (ranches turned (small guest guest (small ). ).

For a bit of luxury of bit a For ($1,310-$1,965 per night. ARS) rooms usually range from US $50-$75 with akitchen for your use. Double along included, typically is Breakfast have private showers and toilets. chalet, boutique hotel, or estancia or hotel, boutique chalet, during your trip, consider alodge, a different style of accommodation your pocket, or just want to experience hole have in you a burning If money night. night. run around US $200 ($5,240 per ARS) want. For people, two costs generally the farm and can be as involved as you guests. You’ll get to learn about life on offer rooms, food, and activities for and are worth splurging on. around US $115 ($3,015 per night, ARS) room decorated differently) start at converted family houses, with each on site) or boutique hotels (often restaurants and spas, views, stunning Ecolodge, Mendoza Estancias are ranches or farms which which farms or ranches are Estancias Mountain lodges (often with . the 21% tax. pay to have longer credit card, you no foreign your with for yourpay hotel of 2017,As if you Note

iStock - EAQ

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6 Argentina Contents The North The Overview Patagonia

Outdoor Central Buenos Aires Aires Buenos Getting Around From serene alpine lakes to rocky Atlantic beaches, subtropical jungles to the tip

of the world, getting around Contents Argentina means covering a lot of ground. Here are the best and most popular modes of transport. Bus driving through Salta province iStock-NicolasSpeck Overview

Buses route. Each bus company is different, Buses are probably the best way to and you’ll want to note what is Buses tend get around Argentina, and there are included with the bus you choose: to cost 50% Buenos Aires Aires Buenos numerous bus companies to choose food, bathroom, refreshments (wine!), less than Surrounds& from. You can either go online to book attendants, stops, etc. But to give an flights – – Omnilineas is a good online booking example, an overnight, 15-hour journey and if you platform – or show up at the bus from Buenos Aires to Mendoza will cost consider that station to pre-purchase your tickets around US $75 ($1,965 ARS). Overnight a bus ride there. You’ll have the choice of class trips can be a great way to save money

counts as an North The between comon (regular seat), semi- on the cost of a hotel. overnight cama (seat that reclines part way), stay, it coche cama (seat that reclines almost all Flights often ends the way flat), and ejecutivo (executive Whether or not you choose to fly will up being sleeper). depend on your budget (and your

much more Argentina The price of the bus journey varies tolerance for long bus rides). economical. Central depending on the company and the A flight from Buenos Aires to Mendoza will cost around US $160 ($4,190 ARS) with LATAM and Aerolineas Airlines – with Aerolineas, Patagonia you’ll have to tack on a further US $80 ($2,095 ARS) for your first checked bag. There’s also a new domestic budget airline called Fly Bondi which often has

good deals. Adventure Outdoor Outdoor Buses tend to cost 50% less than flights – and if you consider that a bus ride counts as an overnight stay, Road across the Andes

iStock - Andy krakovski - Andy iStock and that you often need to take an

7 Contents Overview

Driving - El Chalten iStock - Bee-individual iStock Buenos Aires Aires Buenos & Surrounds& expensive taxi out to the airport (and General Cost Guide in), it often ends up being much more Accommodations economical to take the bus. Hostels: Dorm beds starting at US $10 ($262 ARS), double rooms starting around US $25 ($655 ARS) Rental vehicle Lodges and boutique hotels: US $115 ($3,015 ARS) The North The Renting a car is a great way to see Posadas, double room: US $50-$75 ($1,310-$1,965 ARS) Argentina at your own pace. Pulling Estancias, double room: US $200 ($5,240 ARS) over for picnics, stopping for photos Dining whenever you feel like it, and taking Food in Argentina can be very expensive or very cheap, random, scenic side roads is what it’s all depending on what you eat. Argentina about. Empanadas (small pies stuffed with meat or cheese) and other Central fried snack foods only cost about US $1.25 ($33 ARS) each. But The only downside is that renting a living off empanadas gets boring after a while. This country is car will cost you about US $50 ($1,310 famous for its parrillas (steak houses) and even if you’re on a strict budget, you have to open your wallet for a juicy ribeye at least ARS) per day. Discounts are sometimes once. available if you rent for a week or more.

The El Calafate region of Patagonia is known for its Patagonia Also, you’ll want to make sure that you fire-grilled lamb, which costs around US $18 ($472 ARS) for the meat – sides are extra. Ribeyes in Bariloche cost around $15 ($393 do a loop, so that you can pick up and ARS) – sides are extra. return the vehicle to the same place. In Buenos Aires, you can find lots of cheaper parrillas with steaks Otherwise, you’ll be looking at a huge and sides for around $10 ($262 ARS). The cut of beef you choose really dictates the price. drop-off fee (typically US $0.60/$16 Adventure

Dining at a vineyard around Mendoza or Cafayate is an Outdoor ARS per km). For example, if you picked experience in itself, but you’ll spend around US $70 ($1,835 ARS) for the opportunity. up in Mendoza and dropped off in A Menu of the Day at a local restaurant consisting of an appetizer, Bariloche, that would cost you a hefty main, dessert, and drink will usually be around $10 ($262 ARS). US $720 ($18,865 ARS) drop-off fee!

8 Argentina Eating in plenty of conversation. of plenty always are and accompanied by late, start Meals rangelands. Pampas grassy the from beef mighty rivers of the Northeast, landscapes –fish from the reflect the surrounding tend to dishes Argentine humita en chala chorizo. red and beans, pork, corn, locro is dish Independence Day 9), (July customary the usually the starter of ahuge asado They’re egg. and olives, peppers, small pies stuffed with meat, onions, known grape. known Argentina’s internationally Malbec, is venison. potatoes and apples paired with lamb or curanto Argentine brush. on hot slabs of stone and covered by ground, into cooked dug the asado for curanto look Patagonia, In it’s goat. baby Northwest lamb in the South, and in the sierras and beef or pork in the Pampas, mostly the region, different meats are used: depending and, family on friends and bars over an open flame. Asado metal cross-form on or barbecue a on asado is dishes Argentina’s in Number one traditional Traditional food A typical northwestern delicacy is is delicacy northwestern typical A Other specialties include empanada Other The best wine to pair with asado , a stew made from white white from made stew a , (grilled meat), either meat), either (grilled , made with milk, fresh , aPolynesia-influenced features sweet sweet features gathers gathers . On On .

s, s, scented with flowers and intense.very wine for these dishes is Torrontes, baked with milk and sugar. The best hollowinside a previously pumpkin served paprika, and peppers, onions, meat, corn, of hotpot a is variations, found around the country in different all steamed in corn leaves. Carbonada cheese, goat and spices, onions, corn, frequently. nights aweek, and the menus change a reservation. They’re only open afew locationits kept secret until you make shop, or home private a in are served (closed where dinners door) restaurant, in Buenos Aires is the puertocerrado Japanese to Armenian. Anew trend from ranging choices international along with dishes, traditional on restaurants offering moderntakes In larger cities, you’ll find many diningModern sugar.powdered or jam and covered with chocolate or with afilling of mousse, dulce de leche alfajores Empanadas If you’re don’tIf miss sweets, fond of : two biscuits: two joined together

, , Buenos AiresBuenos local and Videographer Andrés Brenner, speak. walls feel like the one, you’ll into go When you buildings. old in restaurants traditional try travelers that recommend I bodegones: bodegones:

iStock - Heather Plochman

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9 Argentina Contents The North The Overview Patagonia

Outdoor Central Buenos Aires Aires Buenos Cultural Highlights & Etiquette If you tell an Argentinian that you’ll be visiting the country, Contents rest assured that what will come next is: you will be offered a place to stay, invited to a traditional barbeque, asked to go sightseeing with Overview the friend of a friend and, most of all, you will be offeredmate . Mate

Don’t even think of saying no! - Stock anyaivanova Buenos Aires Aires Buenos & Surrounds& The culture of mate: cheek, sometimes even a tight hug. This sharing is caring goes for men and women. Talking loudly It goes Mate may be the single thing that and with energetic body language is also without culturally defines all Argentinians. perfectly okay. saying that It’s what they do, all day, while doing

for visitors North The anything else. The mate ritual reflects Politics, religion, and football wanting to their most deeply rooted values: sharing As a society, Argentinians can be quite blend in, it’s and friendship. polarized by concepts such as politics, not a good This bitter type of tea, known as Yerba military, church, and football. Footballers idea to look Mate, is served in a small cup with an Maradona and Messi; Malvinas (aka the disgusted Argentina Central Central aluminium straw that everyone shares Falkland Islands); the Pope; Juan and when seeing by turns. Evita Perón: are all sensitive topics. A 10 people It goes without saying that for visitors simple conversation can turn into an drinking wanting to blend in, it’s not a good idea intense debate quite easily, so don’t take from the to look disgusted when seeing 10 people it personally if you find yourself in the same straw. Patagonia drinking from the same straw. middle! Apart from mate, asado, and tango, Public affection: a society of football is the quintessence of all hugs and kisses things Argentine. You don’t need to visit

Argentinians are quite relaxed about the famous stadium in La Boca Adventure Outdoor Outdoor public displays of affection, which can to get a sense of this: almost every sometimes be surprising for foreigners. neighborhood has its own football team. When greeting someone, Argentinians The whole country stops for the Sunday will give a kiss – only one – on the right games, and it’s said that if you want to

10 8 Must-do Experiences for Travelers Sit at the park and have mate with new friends: just say “¿Me das un mate?”

Attend a folklore Contents festival or peña Watch a game of pato (the traditional sport of gauchos)

Carnival in Buenos Aires at Las Heras in Overview

Sean O'Reilly Sean Mendoza Visit indigenous say you’ve visited, you have to go to a Music and festivals communities and towns to help keep stadium and see a match. in Argentina their heritage alive Buenos Aires Aires Buenos

Tango is on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Surrounds& Dance tango at Going with the flow Heritage list, and it’s deeply embedded a milonga (tango Accept the realities of Argentina. You in the Argentine culture. venue) may encounter strikes, demonstrations, But the love for music goes beyond Eat traditional asado with the people crossing the road on red lights, tango. There’s also the Cosquín Festival gauchos dog poo, and crowds everywhere (if – Argentina’s most important folk music

Drink wine, of North The you’re in major cities) on almost a daily festival, held in Cordoba, during January. course – but basis. This can create a sense of chaos The festival lasts nine nights and the remember to and overwhelm visitors, but don’t let artists’ lineup is always top notch. try Fernet con Coca. If you tell it spoil the fun. Try not to be bothered And there's the Argentine version of an Argentinian, by people not being on time, concerts rock ‘n’ roll: Rock Nacional. One of the especially from Argentina starting late, or buses being tardy. best experiences for a visitor is to go Cordoba, that Central you’ve tried this, There’s really no reason to rush. to a rock concert, get in the middle of you’ll make a friend things and jump around like there’s no on the spot. Siestas and dinner tomorrow – that’s called “pogo.” Listen to Cuarteto, Many regions of the country, especially Other major festivals are the Fiesta de Argentina’s most Patagonia the hottest ones, follow the custom of la Vendimia (Grape Harvest Festival), held popular type of Latin music, created siesta – napping in the afternoon. You February-March in Mendoza, and the in Cordoba can expect everything to be shut down extravagant Carnaval de Gualeguaychu, from 12:30pm until 4-5pm. Locals usually which takes place in Entre Ríos mid-

eat dinner around 9 or 10pm. That’s why January to late March, and is the most Adventure Outdoor Outdoor Argentinians eat merienda (afternoon famous festival in the country. tea) around 6pm. This translates to late These festivals are hugely popular and mornings, so you won’t find much open draw huge crowds. If you go, make sure before 10am. to plan ahead of time.

11 Safety and Scams Argentina is one of the safest countries for travelers in Latin America, but petty crime does

occur. Here's what to look out Contents for to stay safe.

Petty crime is most common in and around public transport hubs in

Buenos Aires and Mendoza. Recently, Overview thieves have been targeting passports. Be aware, criminals have been known to use force if they encounter Humahuaca carnival, Jujuy province Buenos Aires Aires Buenos Alamy

resistance from travelers, so it's Surrounds& advisable to immediately hand over all cash and valuables when confronted or having their phones snatched from Where to cornered. their hands while using them. get help The Argentine Only carry the cash you need for police operate a Pickpockets the day, avoid riding the subway 24-hour police The North The These opportunists are rife on public late at night, and be careful when helpline in English transport and around transport hubs. withdrawing cash from ATMs, as it's for visitors in Buenos Aires, which They are often neatly dressed and will common for thefts to take place. Stay can be accessed by often try to grab bags from between alert at all times and if possible only dialing 101. people's feet. Some will even come use ATMs in banks or hotels. Another option Argentina cruising past you on a skateboard or is to contact the Central Comisaria del Turista motorcycle, grab what they want and Taxi safety (Tourist Police take off. When using taxis, if possible, book Station) at Av. You can reduce the chance of in advance. Only use radio taxis or a Corrientes 436, or on the multi-lingual being targeted if you avoid wearing remise (a private car with driver). toll-free number Patagonia expensive watches or jewelry, or Radio taxis have a clearly visible 0800 999 5000 or carrying cameras that are tempting company logo on the rear passenger by dialing directly targets for thieves. doors. on 4346 5748. Electronic goods such as Taxis are a common place for In Mendoza, you can seek assistance smartphones and iPads are expensive counterfeiters to ply their trade. Adventure

from the Tourist Outdoor in Argentina, so they are highly prized Unscrupulous taxi drivers, and Police, San Martin goods for thieves. Avoid using them sometimes street vendors, pretend to 1143, by calling telephone 0261 in public spaces or leaving them help travelers review their pesos, then 4132135. unsecured. Travelers have reported trade fake bills for good ones.

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LGBTQ Travel in Argentina

Lesbian, gay, bisexual,

transgender, and queer rights Contents in Argentina are among the most advanced in the world.

Argentina was the first country in Latin

America, and the second in the Western Overview Hemisphere after Canada, to implement Pride Parade

marriage equality (in July 2010). Since - gaby_campo iStock 1983, when Argentina transitioned Buenos Aires Aires Buenos

from a dictatorship to democracy, is home to a vibrant gay scene, which Surrounds& LGBTQ legal protections, inclusivity, and public is spread out across this sprawling city, Festivals acceptance of LGBTQ people and their with concentrations of LGBTQ-oriented Here are rights have gained considerable ground. businesses in the residential Palermo Argentina's top The right to change legal gender (without neighborhood, as well as a handful of fun two LGBTQ events to keep in mind burdensome or humiliating paperwork places in the tony Recoleta and hip San to make your visit The North The and approvals) was put in place in 2012, Telmo districts. extra special: the same year legislation was introduced The early-bird watering hole is Pride LGBTQ Pride fortifying legal protections based on Cafe in San Telmo, but the real party Parade, Buenos Aires. Held annually sexual orientation, gender identity and happens late night. Glam in Recoleta is a in early November. expression. boys’ favorite for electronic and latin pop,

Gay Vendimia, Argentina Societal acceptance is remarkably or catch a drag show at Sitges in Palermo. Mendoza. The Central high, with a 2013 Pew Center poll ranking Nighttours (https://www.nighttours.com/ week-long festival held in early March, Argentina the Latin American country buenosaires/) provides a good overview during the grape with the most positive societal attitudes of gay Buenos Aires. BsAs is also home harvest, celebrating towards homosexuality. And let's not to Argentina's growing queer tango all things wine, and Patagonia forget one-time first lady Eva Perón, an movement. Argentina's second largest LGBTQ enduring gay icon both for her strength But Argentina is more than just its event (after Pride). in the face of intolerance among the capital: LGBTQ visitors will find activities, wealthy classes, and also for her support events, bars, and restaurants in Cordoba,

and protection of gay people at time with its high concentration of university Adventure Outdoor Outdoor when that was not at all common. students; mountainous and picturesque Bariloche, especially during ski season; Gay Argentina and Mendoza, the Napa Valley of The capital and largest city, Buenos Aires, Argentina, best known for its viniculture.

13 Visas & recommended. Depending on your itinerary, length of stay, activities, and Acute Vaccinations recent visits to other destinations, mountain some travelers might also require sickness A visit to Argentina might additional vaccinations such as rabies becomes involve a hike through a and hepatitis B. Vaccination against a risk any subtropical jungle, or climbing yellow fever is strongly recommended time you the highest peak in the Americas Contents if traveling to the regions bordering climb above (or both). Here’s what you need Paraguay and Brazil. If you've visited a certain to know before you go. Misiones Province in the six days prior altitude, and to your return home, many countries Argentina Citizens of the United States, Australia, will ask you for a valid Yellow Fever is home to Overview Canada, and many European countries, Vaccination Certificate on re-entry. some of among others, do not currently require Always ask your local travel clinic for the highest a visa for travel to Argentina as long advice regarding vaccinations. mountains as their stay does not exceed 90 days, outside of Buenos Aires Aires Buenos although payment of a reciprocity Zika and other Asia. Surrounds& fee might be required from some health concerns nationalities before arrival. The Zika virus is present in Argentina, Citizens of some other countries and the risk of visiting the country can enter Argentina without a visa for should be evaluated by all travelers. up to 30 or 60 days, while a number Other mosquito-borne illnesses, such The North The of nationalities will need to apply for as Dengue fever, may also pose a risk, a visa – the Argentina department of especially in the subtropical northeast. immigration is a good place to start Using an effective insect repellent (http://www.migraciones.gov.ar/ is recommended in areas where accesible/indexN.php?visas). It’s highly mosquitoes might be present. Argentina recommended that your passport is Acute mountain sickness becomes Central valid for at least six months after your a risk any time you climb above a date of entry. certain altitude, and Argentina is home Be aware that visa requirements to some of the highest mountains are subject to frequent changes, so outside of Asia. Some shortness of Patagonia it’s important to check the latest visa breath and fatigue is normal at high updates with your country’s Embassy elevations, but seek medical help if or Consulate for Argentina. you feel nauseated, experience severe headaches, or become disoriented.

Vaccinations Drink plenty of water, and avoid Adventure Outdoor Outdoor Make sure you’re up to date with smoking and alcohol, both of which all routine vaccinations before your can worsen the effects. It’s wise to trip to Argentina – the hepatitis A spend a few days acclimatizing before and typhoid vaccines are also highly heading out on a trek.

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enormous variety of things to see and do. and see to things of variety enormous cosmopolitan – but also friendly and relaxed, with an an with relaxed, and friendly also but – cosmopolitan

Outdoor O

Adventure Buenos Aires is busy, diverse, and very very and diverse, busy, is Aires Buenos

to its large number of French-style buildings, buildings, French-style of number large its to

due America” South of “Paris the called ften

Patagonia surrounds and

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Central Argentina BUENOS BUENOS The North & Surrounds Buenos Aires Overview Contents BUENOS AIRES & SURROUNDS Local’s guide to Buenos Aires If there’s anything Buenos Aires

has to spare, it’s character. Contents Emblematic spots like San Telmo (famous for tango) and La Boca (known for its colorful buildings) are just the beginning

– behind all 48 Porteñian Overview neighborhoods lies the passion and tradition of its people.

Casa Rosada, Plaza de Mayo Buenos Aires Aires Buenos Ellen Hall

Getting around Surrounds& Most of the attractions are geographically located in the western stations, can be used for all public strip of the city, which faces the Rio transit and topped up at kiosks around de la Plata and is where it all started: the city. the Port. That’s why locals are called Taxis can get expensive, and traffic is The North The porteños. mayhem – but taxis are the safest The public transport network will way to get around at night. You can hail take you anywhere you want to go one (look for the lit “Libre” sign in the in the city. There are seven metro windshield), but it’s best to call a Radio lines, countless buses, and intercity taxi or UBER. Argentina trains. Prepaid SUBE Cards, available in Central authorized Tourist Centres and subway Historic Monserrat The Monserrat district is Buenos Aires’ historic heart, filled with government You’ll end up buildings and French-style architecture. in Recoleta, Patagonia Plaza de Mayo is the main square of famous for the city, where most political life takes its cemetery, place. where you can visit the

Puerto Madero, Retiro, graves of Adventure Outdoor Outdoor and Recoleta Eva Perón A few minutes’ walk from Plaza de and other Mayo is the Obelisk, Buenos Aires’ most important Recoleta Cemetery

Ellen Hall iconic monument. Cross the famously figures.

16 BUENOS AIRES & SURROUNDS Contents Overview

Political street art about the "disappeared" in La Boca Buenos Aires Aires Buenos Sean O'Reilly Sean & Surrounds& wide 9 de Julio Avenue and head to worthwhile: the Japanese Gardens, Puerto Madero, a modern, stylish artsy stores in the Soho, and horse The Bosques district and a great sunset spot: grab a races at Palermo Hipódromo. of Palermo drink and enjoy the views of the river. The up-and-coming subdistrict of is Buenos North The Or go north along Florida Street, Las Cañitas is a local favorite. Elegant, Aires’ main with its elegant Galerías Pacífico mall, trendy, and compact, Cañitas is full park, with and through Retiro; you’ll end up in of restaurants, shops, and charming lakes, a Recoleta, famous for its cemetery, boulevards. planetarium, where you can visit the graves of Eva In Belgrano, you’ll find Chinatown, Argentina

and a rose Central Perón and other important figures. Go packed with markets, spices, and quirky garden. on Sunday when nearby Plaza Francia gift shops. Museo Larreta houses a bustles with musicians and an artisans’ hidden gem: the Spanish-style Andaluz market. Garden. Enjoy an afternoon concert or do a nighttime guided tour. Patagonia Palermo and Belgrano Palermo is subdivided into several Traditional districts districts: the Soho, Palermo Chico, Don’t miss the local Friday night ritual: Palermo Viejo, Palermo Hollywood, and go to one of Corrientes Avenue’s

Las Cañitas. It’s best explored on foot, theatres – the blocks between Florida Adventure Outdoor Outdoor so wear comfy shoes. and Callao have options for any budget The Bosques of Palermo is Buenos – followed by dinner in a classic pizzeria Aires’ main park, with lakes, a like Los Inmortales, Guerrín, or El planetarium, and a rose garden. Also Cuartito.

17 BUENOS AIRES & SURROUNDS

away in the city are the markets. Check out Mercado el Progreso in Caballito, focused on gastronomy, and Mercado de Pulgas, in Chacarita, selling antiques, arts, and handicrafts. The arts scene is quite intense in Buenos Aires. Beyond the famous

MALBA and la Usina del Arte, there’s Contents Centro Cultural Kirchner, a huge exhibition hub just a few blocks from Julio's, aka "the Craa" Salon in Villa Crespo

Martina Grossi Puerto Madero. If you’re into architecture, the Colón If you’re into Visiting one of the cafetines – small, Theatre is an absolute must, rivaling architecture, Overview classic cafés – is also a must. The most La Scala opera house in Milan. Guided the Colón famous is the Tortoni, but El Gato tours are available in English and Theatre is Negro is arguably more interesting, Spanish. an absolute Buenos Aires Aires Buenos with a wide variety of cafés, chocolates, If you enjoy dancing and drums, must, Surrounds& and teas you can purchase by weight. head to the Centro Cultural Konex, in rivaling La Towards the geographic center of Almagro, on a Monday evening and Scala opera the city is Almagro, a very traditional dance to the rhythm of La Bomba del house in district usually overlooked by visitors. Tiempo. Milan. Be sure to try El Molino Dorado – The North The only open for dinner, this tiny Russian restaurant is a well-kept secret. Between Almagro and Palermo Soho is the culturally diverse Villa Crespo district. For an experience to brag Argentina about back home, get a haircut at Julio Central Pan’s salon, aka “the Craa.” Julio is the barber to Argentina’s football stars. He opens after 6pm every night, and just going to see his place is worth it. Patagonia For shopping, Serrano and Malabia Streets between Corrientes and Córdoba is the fashion outlet area and one of the funkiest parts of town. Go

for merienda (afternoon tea) at Malvón Adventure Outdoor Outdoor – you’ll thank us.

Markets and museums Teatro Colon

Some of the best insider gems tucked Ellen Hall

18 BUENOS AIRES & SURROUNDS Nightlife BsAs is a 24/7 oasis of cool – but at night, the party doesn’t really get started until well after 2am.

Bars ? Start your night at one of the laid-back Contents bars in the city’s oldest neighborhood, San Telmo. Doppelganger (locally called Doppel) specializes in classic cocktails like negronis. Napoles Bar Overview was once a massive storage unit for an O'Reilly Sean antiques collector – he decided to put his wares on display and added a Milongas well-stocked bar for good measure. An Argentina night without tango Buenos Aires Aires Buenos

would be a sin. Maldita is a classic Surrounds& Speakeasies milonga (tango house) and its live Buenos Aires has a lively underground orchestra, El Atronfe, draws a crowd. bar scene. Speakeasies with hidden For newbies, your best bet is the doors are everywhere – such as Florería informal La Cathedral. For serious Atlántico in Recoleta, a chic cocktail bar night owls, La Virtua even serves The North The masquerading as flower shop. patrons breakfast after 4am to keep In Palermo, try the Verne Club for them dancing. its author-inspired menu and absinthe tasting before lining up for the city’s newest hot spot, Uptown, a full-on Argentina Central Central homage to the New York subway. I came to Buenos Aires for four months to immerse myself in Located on a quiet street in Villa tango. After two years of taking classes, and devouring the Crespo, 878 may seem out of the way, moves of my favorite tangueras on YouTube, I was hungry to but it’s easily the most welcoming live it. My plan was to take lessons every day from a variety of maestros, and to dance at a different milonga every night. I timed underground bar in the city. my trip to coincide with three back-to-back tango festivals: The Patagonia International Tango Festival and World Cup, Milongueando, and Clubs Mujercitas. At the workshops, I met people from many countries Niceto Vega in Palermo is Buenos who all had the same crazy idea: to live and breathe tango as intensely as possible. Their camaraderie was as vital to my Aires’ street of nightclubs. Head to progress as all the formal instruction I received.

Club 69 at the Niceto Club to see Adventure Outdoor Outdoor and be seen – if the music is all that matters, hit up the Under Club for house and techno, or try Makena Julia Melancon, Writer and Traveler Cantina Club for live music.

19 BUENOS AIRES & SURROUNDS Day Trips from Buenos Aires From picturesque towns to traditional folk fairs, there are a Contents number of scenic day trips less than an hour from Buenos Aires. Colonia del Sacramento iStock-holgs Colonia del Sacramento

A 50-minute ferry ride across the Rio basketball), and shop for artisanal crafts. Overview de la Plata from Buenos Aires, this Or pop into the Museo de Criollo de los This cobblestoned gem is one of the oldest Corrales, a small museum showcasing cobblestoned towns in Uruguay. Be sure to check out Argentine cowboy life (US $1.40/$37 gem is one Buenos Aires Aires Buenos the Historic Quarter (a UNESCO World- ARS). Entrance to the fair is free, but call of the oldest Surrounds& Heritage site), Street of Sighs (La Calle ahead to confirm that it’s open. towns in de los Suspiros), Faro Lighthouse, Puerta Uruguay. de la Ciudadela (drawbridge), and Paseo Tigre de San Gabriel, where you can watch the Ask a porteño to suggest a day trip, and sun set over the river. Ferry tickets can chances are they’ll recommend Tigre, The North The be purchased online via Buquebus, (US a small river town on the Parana Delta $80-250/$2,095-6,550 ARS round trip). 20mi (32km) outside of Buenos Aires. Buquebus’ online platform can be tricky You can get here in about an hour on the to navigate, but it’s advisable to reserve Mitre train which runs every 10 minutes in advance. Ferries leave three times a from the Retiro Station for US $0.50 ($13 Argentina day from Puerto Madero. ARS) round trip. Tigre’s main attraction Central is a boat tour through the Parana Feria de Mataderos Delta, where you can soak up the lush This popular outdoor street fair, countryside while learning the history located on the outskirts of the city of the area. These tours can be hired Patagonia in the Mataderos neighborhood, is leaving from Puerto Madero in Buenos an hour by a public bus from central Aires or, more casually and on the spot, Buenos Aires. The fair takes place from Tigre's river port. Afterwards, every Sunday (approximately March- explore the ornate Museo de Arte Tigre,

December). Visitors can explore once a luxury hotel (US $2.50/$66 ARS). Adventure Outdoor Outdoor gaucho culture, enjoy folk music and Don’t miss the Puerto de Frutos Market, dance performances, taste traditional 20 minutes by foot from Tigre’s train food, watch a local game of pato (a station, to shop for local crafts, treats, sport combining elements of polo and and antiques.

20 Contents Overview Buenos Aires Aires Buenos & Surrounds& The North The

THE Argentina Central Central

NORTH O'Reilly Sean Patagonia

orthern Argentina stands out for its distinctive landscapes – sub-tropical rainforest and Nmighty waterfalls in the Northeast, surreal salt flats and multi-colored hills in the Northwest – and its Adventure ancient cultural roots. Outdoor

21 Argentina Northeast THE NORTH THE adventurers. intrepid and seekers peace belongs Northeast the to waterfall system on earth, wetlands to the most powerful extremethe stillness the of from vary that landscapes rivers lies the Littoral. With Parana and Uruguay Along the a visit for vibrant its scene arts –check worth well it’s itineraries, short during Lionel Messi, even Argentina’s flag. icons were born here –Che Guevara, Argentinian many hubs, cultural main country’s Considered the of Littoral. one starting point for an itinerary across the drive from Buenos Aires, and the typical The “cradle of the flag” is a four-hour Rosario say you’ve truly seen the region! red soil from your clothes, then you can traditions. and history their about learning and communities their visiting of point a here. live still indigenous Make tribes gems. rent avehicle to get to some hidden Aires and Patagonia, you may need to Buenos than expensive less generally and falling into slow its rhythm. Though “Argentineexploring the Mesopotamia” It’s worth devoting weeks two to Though Rosario is usually overlooked overlooked usually is Rosario Though If it takes you months to remove the This region is culturally rich, as not many people have access to. a kayak to explore areas of the delta that beach bars overlooking the city. Or hire Isla,” and enjoy aday at one of the many the 15-min from ferry Fluvial La to “La you visit during spring/summer, catch If pubs. and parks with lined riverfront out the Silos Davis museum –and a February. and January celebrated during Carnival, Gualeguaychú the festival: important Entre Ríos hosts Argentina’s most Among rivers in Entre Ríos province. Colón, one of many thermal baths in the spot in Entre Ríos. Or visit the Termas de your hand Paz, at La the best fishing Try industry. tourism well-developed a and outdoor activities of range wide feathers and bling –it offers also a resorts are numerous and affordable. ecotourism and hostels, Campsites, is the main operator in the region. Flechabus network: buses long-distance Gualeguaychu carnival Gualeguaychu But Entre Ríos is more than colored It’s fairly easy to get around using the

flag. Argentina’s even Messi, Lionel Guevara, Che born here – were icons Argentinian many hubs, cultural main country’s the of one Considered

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Outdoor Central Buenos Aires Aires Buenos THE NORTH

If you come around Carnival time, you’ll need to book in advance and be prepared for high temperatures and humidity.

Corrientes: Sport Fishing and Esteros del Ibera

Travelers come to Corrientes province Contents for two main reasons: the Esteros del Ibera, and world-class recreational fishing. The Esteros del Ibera is the Iguazu Falls Overview second-most important wetland in the - Bkamprath iStock continent. Though not yet an official national park, it’s gaining fame due Misiones beyond Iguazu Falls to its huge variety of flora and fauna, Magnificent Iguazu Falls is the main draw Magnificent Buenos Aires Aires Buenos including caiman, capybara, and over 360 to this region, and with good reason. But Iguazu Falls Surrounds& species of birds. Visit now, while it’s still if you take time to venture further, you’ll is the main off the main tourism radar. be well rewarded. draw to this The Esteros can be accessed several Renting a car is recommended if you region, and ways. There are some eco-lodges near want explore the region in depth. with good the northernmost point, but most If you’re arriving from Corrientes, and

reason. But if North The visitors arrive via the town of Mercedes, want to visit the UNESCO-listed Ruinas you take time about 68mi (110 km) south of the de San Ignacio (a Jesuit Mission founded to venture Esteros, where you can rent a car or in 1632), consider overnighting at Saltos further, take a bus to Colonia Carlos Pellegrini, a del Tabay, a huge campsite 29mi (46km) you’ll be well small village just outside park. You’ll find away, near the Parana River. rewarded. Argentina numerous accommodation options here, From here, the Saltos del Mocona is Central including eco-lodges and campsites. worth a detour – this unique waterfall It’s highly recommended to rent a runs parallel to its river for 1.8mi (3km). car (ideally an SUV) as there’s not a The falls are visible for about 250 days wide range of public transport. Or, you per year when the river’s not at peak Patagonia can arrange a guided visit from Colonia fullness. Before going, check the official Carlos Pellegrini or Mercedes, or book website as the park closes on occasion an all-inclusive package to stay within due to weather conditions. If you don’t the park for around three days. have a car, head to El Soberbio; there,

If you’re interested in recreational you’ll find the only official transport that Adventure Outdoor Outdoor fishing, head to Goya or Paso de la operates in the area. Patria, famed hubs for Dorado and Other popular waterfalls can be Surubí fish. You can organize your own found in the vicinity of Puerto Iguazu: adventure or hire a guide. Salto de Mbocay and Salto del Turista.

23 THE NORTH The Northwest When we talk about Argentina, we talk about diversity and the strong influence of European immigration all over the country. Contents But if we’re looking for a region that still keeps its native roots alive, that’s el Norte.

Catamarca Province Overview A journey to the North starts in Catamarca, where the thermal baths of Fiambalá have become both a travel and Lake with flamingos, Catamarca Buenos Aires Aires Buenos iStock - Dmitry Saparov - Dmitry iStock

a health destination for people looking Surrounds& to relieve pain or stress. A short distance away is Antofagasta de la Sierra, an including local cheese and wool expanse of rocks and desert until you sweaters. Another worthwhile stop on You reach reach a few huge lakes filled with crystal the road towards Salta is the Ruinas de a few huge water and hundreds of flamingos. Quilmes, a fortified citadel built around

lakes filled North The 850 AD by the pre-Columbian Quilmes with crystal Tucuman Province people. water and In the arid North, the lush hill town hundreds of of Tafi del Valle feels like an oasis, Salta Province flamingos. surrounded by rolling green mountains Once in Salta, the mountains of the Argentina and fields. The city center is lined with Calchaqui Valley take on hues of red Central little shops selling artisan products, and gold. Your first stop should be the village of La Poma, home to El Puente del Diablo: caves formed by the erosion of volcanic stones that display stunning Patagonia colors thanks to the minerals in the earth. You’ll find small geysers and beautiful formations of stalagmites and stalactites.

The area is also famous for the Adventure Outdoor Outdoor UNESCO-listed Graneros Incaicos, 24 roofed structures of mud and straw, built 900 years ago by the Inca to store Salta cathedral

iStock - Solange Z - Solange iStock grain and ears of corn. They’re held

24 THE NORTH THE a dessert made with cornmeal. And And cornmeal. with made dessert a charqui corn cakes), or tamales made with drink), humitas some corn-based in the world. the in condor,Andean birds largest the of one majestic the of glimpse a get might del Condor,”Here, “Mirador the at you to Jujuy is the mountain town of Iruya. a day or of two exploration. worth well It’s cuisine. regional excellent lively buildings, colonial ornate its for known intense. high-quality paprika, flavor as its is quite crop. The peppers are used to produce plantations of red pepper, the main local organic by surrounded is Cachi style. northern buildings classic adobe the in littlehandsome town built white of for the next group that arrived. through, they left the silos full of grain use the granaries: when agroup passed to how on instructions be to thought incarved stone, and cave paintings Inside,long. you’ll measurements see inside ahuge natural cavern 115ft (35m) fortification. pre-Inca located strategically a Tilcara, “Hill of Seven Colors;” and Pucara de famous the below just Purmamarca, the Rio Grande; the lovely village of that undulates in colorful waves along valley UNESCO-listed a Humahuaca, Quebrada de spectacular the Visit ProvinceJujuy Your before destination heading last Salta is the main of city the province, Not far from Poma La is Cachi, a Stop for aglass of api peñas (dried meat), followed by anchi (folklore concerts), and (a purple, purple, (a (savory (savory

,

potatoes from the Humahuaca valley. Humahuaca the from potatoes of types various don’t the forget try to continue for up to a month. month. continue a to for up wearing a“devil” disguise can –the party and drinking, dancing, road the of side you’ll the groups on people of see often celebration, here the during drive you If (February-March). Carnival lively its for known best but fans sand-boarding with with sand dunes. Huancar is popular Cerro Huancar, ahigh mountain covered can help them on their long journey. their on help them can departed praying for the cooking and so thirsty, and hungry gets it purgatory, The belief is that while the soul is in to see women cooking pastries. (October 31- November 2), it’s common Pachamama. During Day of the Dead wine, cigarettes, and food to “feed” the ground dropping and beer, the in on and ask for blessings by making ahole to say “thank you” to Mother Earth, customary it’s 1 August example, on For beliefs. aboriginal their of many maintain devoted to the Virgin Mary), they also (and particularly Catholic largely are Iruya village Iruya Almost to the border of Bolivia is the the is Bolivia border of the to Almost Though people from the Northwest Northwest the from people Though condor. Andean majestic the of glimpse might get a Condor,” you del “Mirador Here, at the Iruya. town of mountain the is to Jujuy heading before destination Your last

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Outdoor Central Buenos Aires Aires Buenos 26

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heart of the country offers plenty of variety. of plenty offers country the of heart

R

white-water rafting and lunar landscapes – the the – landscapes lunar and rafting white-water

elevation vineyards backed by snowy peaks, epic epic peaks, snowy by backed vineyards elevation

olling foothills and quaint alpine villages, high- villages, alpine quaint and foothills olling

Patagonia

HHiStock pawopa3336 - ARGENTINA

Central Argentina CENTRAL The North & Surrounds Buenos Aires Overview Contents Sierras Central The CENTRAL ARGENTINA CENTRAL hospitality. warm and experiences, cultural region’s astonishing landscapes, have long been aware of the to visit in Argentina –but locals places of travelers’ lists most aren’t Centrales Sierras on The The peaceful village of Nono has the Valle in Relax Traslasierra de US $60 ($1,580 ARS). for one to three days. Prices start from accommodation and packages meals, tours are available, also with guides, All-inclusive camp. can you or advance, shelters that must be booked in the night, there are several mountain fee for use of the circuits. If you stay walls. and streams enclosed by huge, rocky underground waterfalls, rivers, caves, by difficulty. These will lead to you organized into some 40 paths classified de Los Lisos, with 11 trekking circuits between. in valleys green small towering, vertical rock formations with Camino de las Altas Cumbres –these are the on Gigantes, should Los to head seekers adventure But architecture. colonial atmosphere, well-preserved and city, is known for universities, its relaxed Cordoba, Argentina’s second-oldest Los Gigantesand Cordoba Explore The reserve is private and there’s a The most impressive is the Valle

of an authentic natural spa. spa. natural authentic an of grow here, and enjoy being in the middle birds, and the smell of the herbs that water, the of sound the the of song the waterfalls. Let yourself be enveloped by rocks that form natural pools and small huge, with lined rounded banks and mica, with gleaming beaches golden pristine Chico River, you’ll find extensive perfect anti-stress formula. Beside the Cordoba Province. in peak highest the Champaqui, Mount area. Or you can climb neighboring the rappel in or horses, ride kayak, can favorite backpackers of and campers, A them. Uritorco of one is Mount terrain. the in quartz of quantity high the to due centers, energetic region areas are this considered of Some (and maybe aliens) adventure Find If you prefer you adrenaline,If of bit a you

camp. or you can advance, in bookedbe must that shelters mountain several are there night, you the stay If circuits. for use of the there’s fee a and private is reserve The Los Gigantes, Cordoba Gigantes, Los

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Outdoor Central Buenos Aires Aires Buenos CENTRAL ARGENTINA this mount is a center for legends and mysticism, including some alien theories – you might consider it the Roswell of Argentina. Some people believe extraterrestrials called Erks live in an ethereal city under the mount. It’s fairly easy to climb, and if you spend the night there, you’ll see some lights in the sky Contents that scientists can’t explain. Alta Gracia

A 25-min drive from Capilla del - RnDmS iStock Monte, you’ll find one of the region’s loveliest trekking circuits, Los Terrones. your way out of the grass labyrinth in Overview The moderate trails run through Los Cocos, or take the chairlift up the Alta Gracia an incredible landscape of red rock mountain, and zipline or alpine-slide is also formations that form mysterious shapes. your way down. Or visit the Road of the known as the Not far away is San Marcos Sierras, a Artisans, which links the villages of La childhood Buenos Aires Aires Buenos little hippie town where a community of Cumbre and Villa Giardina, to buy some home of Che Surrounds& people live off the grid. The main mount local handicrafts. Guevara. here is Alpha Mount, ideal for viewing the sunset. Follow the path along the Visit the home of a legend Quilpo River and immerse yourself in In Cordoba province, you’ll find many one of the purest areas of the province, vestiges of Spanish colonialism, as The North The where you can actually hear the silence. well as a strong Jesuit legacy. Many of the buildings are still standing, and Discover a slice of Europe some have been declared UNESCO La Cumbrecita, one of the most World-Heritage sites. One of the most beautiful villages in the province, is a important is the 17th-century Jesuit Argentina little Tyrolean hamlet with authentic estancia in Alta Gracia. This village is Central German-style architecture and cuisine. also known as the childhood home Set in the middle of the mountains, the of Che Guevara. Today, his home is a town is entirely pedestrian. From the small museum, where you can see his center of town, several paths will take room, his bed, and some of his personal Patagonia you to small falls, streams, and natural objects. pools. Don’t forget to try one of the local artisan beers. When to go For a different flavor, La Cumbre, If you want to skip the crowds, avoid

Cruz Chica and Los Cocos are three going to Cordoba during the summer Adventure Outdoor Outdoor charming villages with a British (January and February), winter break influence. Several grand English manor (July), and national holidays. The best houses have been converted in hotels seasons? Spring and autumn: good if you want to relax in style. Try to find weather, fewer crowds, and best prices.

28 Beyond and Mendoza Midwest: The CENTRAL ARGENTINA CENTRAL secrets of the Argentine the midwest. of secrets discoversoothing springs, hot the and landscapes otherworldly to mountain America’s tallest From wine. Mendoza than South Mendoza –and there’s more to There’s more to El Cuyo than valley special. valley de Plata mountains that makes this backdrop Cordón breathtaking the of the unpretentious vibe mixed with the it’s but region famous for Malbec, is River, wine-growing prominent this TunuyánValley. the along Situated one wine trail, make sure it’s the Uco of course be wine. But if you only hit you’reIf Mendoza, going to will there Mendoza natural arch over the Rio Vacas, a nod to discoverer. its often called the Bosque de Darwin as out Los Paramillos, apetrified forest Seven Years in Tibet was filmed). Check Cerro Tunduqueral (where of some petroglyphs at Inca exploreto the of Uspallata, your jumping-off point forests. cypress and peaks capped relaxing surroundedand snow- by weekend swimming, sunbathing, for to Lake Potrerillos on asummer out head and do locals the as do Stop at the Puente del Inca, a a Puente del Inca, the at Stop Just north is the quaint little town you’re When grape-sampling, done

horseback through the aptly named named aptly through the horseback summer.the Hike, bike, mountain or in winter turned natural paradise in Valle de Leñas, Las apopular ski resort clear, turquoise waters. Drive on to Encantada, alovely lake with crystal- where you'llLaguna findLa de la Niña Mendoza proper of Malargue, is South Malargue Harvest Queen. Harvest districts compete to be crowned the Mendoza's queens from beauty 18 where pageant a and tastings, wine endless parades, massive dancing, You’ll region. the across folk witness Festival, is a10-day affair celebrated Vendimia March, you’re in luck. The Fiesta de la world. the in volcanoes Volcano Tupungato, tallest the of one Alternately, head south to see is worth it for the incredible views. to the first basecamp, Confluencia, hike day A mountain. tallest America’s your way Aconcagua,on to South If you’re in Mendoza in early , or Annual Grape Harvest Mendoza vineyards with Aconcagua in the background region. the across celebrated affair10-day Festival, is a Harvest Grape Annual or la Vendimia FiestaThe de ,

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Valle Hermoso before heading off to relax at El Azufres hot springs. South of Malargue is the Caverna de las Brujas, or Witches Cave, a nature reserve that’s home to one of the largest cave complexes in Argentina. Nearby is Cascadas de

Manqui Malal, 98ft (30m) waterfalls Contents covered in fossilized remains. The area is perfect for hiking, climbing, Ischigualasto

or mountain biking – and there’s a - edurivero iStock campsite if you want to stay the night.

Next, head to the high-altitude (200m) high red sandstone cliffs, Triassic- Overview Laguna Llancanelo, known for its period fossils, and 1,500-year-old rock Explore flamingos. While water birds are the carvings. the Laguna main attraction, it’s worth checking To visit the parks, stay in Villa Unión Brava Buenos Aires Aires Buenos out la Cueva del Tigre (the Cave of in La Rioja or the quaint town of San Provincial Surrounds& the Tiger) and the Laguna de Cari- Agustín de Valle Fértil in San Juan. Reserve, lauquen while on site. Talampaya especially merits a longer which boasts Continue south to the Reserva stay – be sure to start early, when the stunning la Provincial la Payunia, a relatively morning sun hits the colored rocks colors and inaccessible but staggeringly beautiful and illuminates the canyon.

ample North The reserve boasting more than 800 Afterwards, explore the Laguna wildlife. volcanoes – one of the highest Brava Provincial Reserve, which concentrations of volcanoes on the boasts stunning colors and ample planet. Sometimes referred to as the wildlife, before heading to Valle de Patagonia of Mendoza, La Payunia Calingasta. Star-gazers must stop Argentina is also an amazing place to spot in Barreal to visit the Complejo Central wildlife – such as condors, pumas, Astronómico El Leoncito, one of the eagles, foxes, and even guanacos (a continent’s most important space llama relative) – or even the odd cave observatories, inside of El Leoncito painting or two. National Park. Patagonia Finally, head west to Las La Rioja and San Juan Hornillas, the point of departure La Rioja and San Juan are best for adventurous treks and climbs known for their two star attractions: at Cerro Mercedario, a favorite

Ischigualasto, aka the Valle de la Luna summit amongst mountaineers Adventure Outdoor Outdoor (Valley of the Moon), famed for its and the eighth-highest mountain bizarre rock formations and some of the of the Andes, before trekking back earliest known dinosaur remains; and to Mendoza for a farewell glass of Talampaya National Park, with its 656ft Malbec.

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where penguins nest by the thousands. the by nest penguins where

Glaciares National Park, and the rocky Atlantic beaches beaches Atlantic rocky the and Park, National Glaciares

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Lake Nahuel Huapi, the pinnacles and ice fields of Los Los of fields ice and pinnacles the Huapi, Nahuel Lake

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is vast, starting with the crystal-blue waters of of waters crystal-blue the with starting vast, is

irresistible. Its wonders are as many as the region region the as many as are wonders Its irresistible.

or lovers of nature, Patagonia’s siren call is is call siren Patagonia’s nature, of lovers or

Patagonia HHSean O'Reilly PATAGONIA Central Argentina The North & Surrounds Buenos Aires Overview Contents Lieselot de Brauwer District Lake The PATAGONIA District is prime for exploration. for prime is District Argentina’s Lake mountains, backdrop a snow-dusted and of azure eye-popping to green milky from lakes ranging alpine With through the Andes via Puerto Blest, Blest, Puerto via Andes through the from Chile by ascenic lake crossing round activities. Visitors can arrive also section of the park and offers year- is the gateway to city the southern Bariloche de Carlos San Huapi, Nahuel Lago shores of southeast the On Bariloche lunch). picnic a trip from one of the larger towns (pack Traful is magical and well worth aday rowdy backpackers in the summer. Lago lakeshore campgrounds filled with from ConfluenciaVilla is Traful, with About 16mi (25km) off Ruta 40 TrafulVilla los Andes and Angostura. Villa La de Martin San towns of connecting the Lakes, Seven the famous Route of includes the section northern The can be divided into north and south. park national America’s oldest South Huapi Nahuel Nacional Parque lake monsterfor the Nahuelito. peeled eyes keep your mornings, misty Huapi, the largest lake in the region. On teal stonesmauve along and Nahuel Discover hidden beaches filled with

explorers (US $280 /$6,825 ARS). Patagonian by taken route same the chocolate. exquisite local tasting spent be can lupines and wild orchids. Rainy days golden scotch alongside broom indigo fierce Patagonian winds and blooms of lengas magenta and hillsides turn into arainbow of orange the April, and March hikes. In solitary more and prices fall for low-season or spring in visiting consider sports, winter and and chairlift to the top. Try the lemon pie than an hour; non-hikers can take the bus route. You can reach the top in less public along a downtown Bariloche 20 from minutes located Campanario, the world’s most stunning –from Cerro Don’t considered – view of one the miss Chico Circuito Unless you’ve come especially for for especially you’ve come Unless cafe con leche at the confiteria. . November brings brings November . View from Cerro Campanario from View Campanario. Cerro from – stunning world’s most the of one considered the view – Don’t miss

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Outdoor Central Buenos Aires Aires Buenos PATAGONIA For For curanto serving restaurants several boasts also village the campgrounds, and Bariloche. Along with apublic beach downtown from bus 30-minute a just Moreno, Lake shore of the nestled on is settlement three-block quaint This Colonia Suiza rentals). kayak and beer local excellent with Playa Morenito (near Bahía Pascasio, sheltered the to head eastern side of wind; otherwise without days on best Bahia de Los Troncos and Villa Tacul are Beaches Moreno. Lago on protected beaches along this trail to secluded, wind- with native arrayan trees. Continue the forest will take you to atiny clearing Llao Llao hotel, a20-minute walk in lookout. the to hour the Bahiatry Lopez trail, under also an Andes. Blest, Cerro Capilla, and the Chilean Brazo of view stunning a with climb Cerrito Llao Llao is agentle one-hour trails. interconnecting many has Chico The Llao Llao Municipal Park in Circuito HikesShort check with the Club Andino to see possibilities; hiking the by overwhelmed you’ll be snow melts, the Once HikesOvernight fair on weekends. on fair Sunday; there’s asmall also local craft Or, starting about amile past the For asingular view of Brazo Tristeza, curanto asado , an asado , visit on Wednesday or dug into the ground. ground. intodug the

Tronador Mascardi and Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi extends extends Huapi Nahuel Parque Nacional a small fee to use the kitchen. the use to fee small a looking for quiet, camp outside and pay festive at the refugios breaks out aguitar. Things can get someone when later friends of lots wine to share over dinner –you’ll make in your pack, bring along abottle of (US $25/$655 ARS). If you’ve got room always splurge with anight at arefugio didn’t you If months. gear, bring can you are open. January-April are the best accommodation and trails which hikes as well. well. hikes as three-day or two- combination one- of can be done in reverse order, or any spending anight at each. The trek Laguna Negra, and Lopez refugios, Catedral and hike up to Frey, Jacob, a guide, start at the base of Cerro For an up-to-four-night trek without without trek up-to-four-night an For , so if you’re

guitar. breaks out a someone when later friends of make lots you’ll– over dinner to share wine of a bottle along bring your pack, got room in If you’ve Hiking the Lake District Lake the Hiking

iStock-Agustina Camilion

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Outdoor Central Buenos Aires Aires Buenos iStock - mountlynx PATAGONIA Parque Nacional Lanin is unique for its communities, indigenous local and to be jointly run by the government The only national park in Argentina Lanin Parque Nacional the area for swimmers. the visit Lago Steffen,the warmest lake in town of El Bolson, veer off Ruta 40 to Mascardi. Lago on tours exceptional half- kayaking full-day and times. entry/exit If you’re in your own vehicle, check for Bariloche). from hours 5:30pm (two the Club Andino at 8:30am and return Linda. For day access, buses leave from Hotel Tronadorat Hosteria Pampa or gear included). $200/$5,240 for guided ARS crossing, is spectacular if you can swing it (US Linda-Meiling-Rocca via Glacier Alerce the region. The three-day trek Pampa providing some of the best trekking in Tronador, stratovolcano extinct an recreational area with access to Mount Mascardi Lago the as south far as A refugio If you’reIf hippie the to south headed provides Adventures Kawén can spendNon-campers the night prehistoric-looking trees. monkey-puzzle Pucon, ChilePucon, (around car). by four hours closest town, with aborder crossing to from sleepy Junin de los Andes, the leave Excursions required. registration hike on the glacier, ice-walking gear and three-day a Lanin: summit can hikers the Argentina Lake District. Trained (3,658m), is the only active volcano in Lago Huechulafquen at 12,000ft are no services. no are there permitted, is camping although water; the southern coast is rugged and many offering simple meals and hot Huechulafquen, coast of northern the areThere several campgrounds on Park, as there is no public transport. Dinosaurs Are Big Here Museum of Natural History standards. History Natural of Museum are generally adapted houses/warehouses –don’t expect American Neuquén city, sites are about aone to three-hour drive. The museums Tips: experience in the field. Reach out to the Centre before dropping by for the educational site. excavation dinosaur a at life witness to visitors allows Museum Run by National University of Comahue, the Geology and Paleontology losLago Barreales herbivores), along with anest and eggs! ArgentinosaurusHuinculensis Carmen Funes Museum in Plaza has afull reconstruction of a HuinculPlaza and Rincon de los Sauces lake. the near Carolini. the staff how Ask to accessthe massive, foot-shaped "ponds" give the dinos a"surname" after their discoverer –in this case, Mr. Rubén nearby, and skeleton its is almost 70% complete. The local tradition is to Bachmann Museum the hosts original fossils of Giganotosaurus Chocon el Villa here in 1993. Here’s where to get your fossil fix. (one of the largest carnivores in the world, bigger than T-Rex) was found of the richest paleontology sites in the world –GiganotosaurusCarolinii some boasts District, Lake northern region around Neuquen, the The in The Lanin volcano, towering over over towering volcano, Lanin The You’ll need acar to explore the This area is vast, so you’ll need to get around by car. From

skeleton known (one largest the of

, found found ,

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Outdoor Central Buenos Aires Aires Buenos Patagonia Southwest PATAGONIA alternatives with fewer visitors. with alternatives offers a wealth of lesser-known Patagonia hitters, heavy the beyond but reason – good These places are famous for off the Perito Moreno glacier. colossal shards of ice calving peaks of Mount Roy, Fitz or up images of the knife-edge conjurePatagonia” typically The words “Argentine and a half of activity. around US $130 ($3,405 for an ARS) hour what aglacier looks like. Expect to spend crevasses and shafts and getting to see the surface of the ice, climbing through strap on your crampons to crunch across an afternoon of ice trekking, where you (5km)giant’s 3mi snout. wide that offer various perspectives thisof ice entrance fee to access the boardwalks return) and pay your US $25 ($655 ARS) from the terminal (US $30/$786 ARS a relative term. Hop on apublic bus although be aware that cheap is still more quickly than Patagonia’s glaciers. disappearing are pesos hard-earned But atrip to the park can feel like your deserves to be called “unmissable.” Argentina’s most famous glacier –truly in form, El Perito Moreno –aka spectacular truly size and in Astonishing Perito MorenoEl to side other The To get up close and personal, consider It’s possible to visit on the cheap,

Glaciares National Park. National Glaciares Los of sector northern the of trails hiking the exploring for excellent base makes an which Chalten, El capital, hiking Argentina’s self-proclaimed lies 78mi (125km) Perito Moreno of north Park National Glaciares Lesser-known trails in Los early morning light. morning early the granite peaks appear out of the moment when spectacular the witness at this time and, if the weather’s good, sunrise. You’ll find fewer other hikers final ascent theto lake, and head up for Poincenot just campsite before the day, trekkers savvy pitch up at the free Although the hike is possible in one ultimate views of Mount Roy. Fitz aquamarine glacial lake offering the round trip to Laguna de los Tres, an return trip from Laguna de los Tres via this crowd-pleaser. Adetour on the is packed with other trails beyond The most popular is the eight-hour the is popular most The But Los Glaciares National Park the ice. the of surface the across to crunch crampons strap on your you where trekking, ice of afternoon an consider personal, and close To get up Fall colors Roy at Mont Fitz

Edwin d'Haens

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Outdoor Central Buenos Aires Aires Buenos Sean O'Reilly PATAGONIA O’Higgins – but it’s well worth the before reaching the boat to cross Lago all of your gear at least 9mi (15km) carrying literally, you’ll be quite as – Roy, glaciers, and lakes to boot. Fitz of views stunning with – Chile in at the end very of the Carretera Austral Chalten in Argentina to Villa O’Higgins and aboat journey as you cross from El hiking combines adventure one-night two-day, The it. do just might Chile offthe beatentrail, this trek over to If that doesn’t your satisfy urge to get crossing border Patagonia’s intrepid most Park. National Paine famous Wtrek in Chile’s Torres del as aunique alternative to the more itself establishing quickly is – Chalten the latter of which you can rent in El equipment, technical and experience requires which – Circuit Huemul day trail practically empty of hikers. promises spectacular lake vistas along a extra 30 minutes to your descent, but Laguna Madre and Laguna Hijo adds an Perito Moreno Perito It’s not atrip to be taken lightly For amore challenging trek, the four- you’ll find in Patagonia. paintings ancient impressive most the the town, not the glacier –this cave has near Perito Moreno – Located Pintados. until you reach the Cueva de los Manos tourist comes to attractions, it when 390mi (625km) of pampa is fairly sparse next Chalten, El of the Heading north otherThe Perito Moreno rock face. ceremonies, all left for eternity on the shamanic and hunted guanaco being six fingers), as well theas pictures of with one for the out splendor (look their all in handprints the admire and Antiguos Los Perito Morenonearby or yesterday. Get here on atour from and look like they were painted just gatherer continent cultures – the in hunter- earliest the of evidence one of are believed show to handprints of stencilled outlines multi-colored, the critically endangered huemul deer. huemul endangered critically the of glimpse a catch even might unexplored you most and reaches, Patagonia’s of through one pass you effort. It’s easy to feel like a pioneer as Dated at awhopping 7,300 years BC,

Park. National Paine del Chile’s Torre in trek W famous to the more alternative unique a as itself establishing quickly is Circuit Huemel day four- The

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Outdoor Central Buenos Aires Aires Buenos Patagonia Coastal PATAGONIA descendants in South America. America. South in descendants Welsh of population largest alive –and is also home to the much prehistoric very and both – wildlife with teems further south. But this region Calafate Chalten El El and cousins famous more its by overshadowed be to tends Patagonia Argentine Coastal the peninsula. the wildlife marine various around the out giving you far more flexibility to check cheaper –to rent acar for the day, considerably and – enough it’s easy to pay over US $120/$3,145 but ARS) ToursMadryn. are expensive (expect Norte, a2.5 hours’ drive from Puerto dawn from February to April at Punta young. unsuspecting beach themselves as aruse to catch to appearing tide, high at animals hunting strategy to prey on the unique a adopted drovesin they’ve – lions. sea southern and elephant seals colonies and of pebble beaches, bays, shallow to home and Madryn Puerto accessible headland a nearby from to rectify this, it’s at Peninsula Valdes, Ever seen one hunt? If there’s one place Ever seen an orca, aka akiller whale? Valdes Peninsula in whales Killer The waters here are home also to The technique is best observed at It’s the latter that draw the orcas

Antarctica. Antarctica. young beforetheir to heading south June to December breeding and raising of months spend the who whales, right southern of population important an Ninfas. Punta colony in penguin established newly the project at conservation Galapagos. Or volunteer on apenguin of wildlife that’s been likened to the an isolated sheep farm with adiversity Bustamante, Bahia at staying consider shuffling seabirds. seabirds. shuffling rookery becomes ahive of squawking, (September-March), season nesting this (around 500,000 at last count). During America South in penguins Magellanic Tombo colony largest the to of home is Penguin lovers, take note: Punta Penguins Punta Tombo at To your journey, of out most the get The best part about this colony is Whale watching, Peninsula Valdes Peninsula watching, Whale last count). last 500,000 at (around America South in penguins Magellanic colony of largest the to home Tombo is note: Punta take lovers, Penguin

iStock - TIago Fernandez

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Outdoor Central Buenos Aires Aires Buenos PATAGONIA before your eyes. your before work, dusting offthe world’s history at patiently paleontologists watch where can window you laboratory planet, but real its attraction is the be the largest that ever roamed the to believed dinosaur of species new Patagotitan of remains mayorum Egidio Feruglio. the to It’s home region at the Museum of Paleontology further back in the history of the dragon. Welsh the with stitched tea towels decorated with houses, afternoon in one of Gaiman’s tea of the region’s Welsh flair, spend an still claim Welsh heritage. For ataste day, around athird of local residents grasslands, but they stayed, and to this pastures. new seeking arrived by Welsh families in the 1860s, who a unique history: both were settled have province Chubut Trelew the in mistaken. The towns of Gaiman and just gauchos and guanaco, you’d be to Patagonia was home Argentine of steppe dusty the that thought you If Trelew and Gaiman of history odd The rules set by the wardens. disturb them, and always follow the while nesting, so it’s important not to their chicks are particularly vulnerable penguin best friend. But the birds and your new with photo fordistance a 6ft (2m) of the birds –the perfect within get can you meaning nests, their between wooden boardwalk meanders how accessible the penguins are. A In nearby Trelew, you can go even found was windswept they All

, a , a Dr. Pablo Garcia Borboroglu globalpenguinsociety.org. and feeding areas. Learn more at www. breeding for protection securing to collection data on-the-ground from penguin species, a range of activities designed to benefit all conducts Penguin Global Society The land. local efforts wherethey nest and breed on focused require also they but feed, to ocean action because they use vast areas of the conservation large-scale need Penguins for months. chicks and eggs their protecting are they where area the penguins: the most valuable and sensitive places for visitors, we should be aware that these are Tombo, El Pedral, or Lorenzo San colony. As locations to visit penguins, such as Punta Argentine Patagonia offers several excellent protect awide array of other marine wildlife. help and for conservation, support political and public foster can penguins charisma, The good news: because of their natural disturbance affectthem land. on human and introduced predators, degradation, while oceans, habitat their impoverish overfishing and change,pollution, on earth are listed as threatened. Climate that over half of the 18 species of penguins bird groups, but most people aren’t aware beloved most the Penguins among are Global Penguin Society Penguins Patagonia’s Charismatic , President, President,

conservation. for support political and public foster can penguins charisma, their natural Because of Peninsula Valdes Peninsula

iStock - LaraBelova

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Outdoor Central Buenos Aires Aires Buenos del Fuegodel Tierra PATAGONIA worth the journey south. journey the worth south. are Ushuaia, city, southernmost Tierra del Fuego and the world’s cruise to Antarctica, after all – this is the place to pick up a – earth the ends of the with travelers most by Associated sailboat tour (around US $95/$2,490 ARS). eight-person an take instead and ships (60km) east of Ushuaia. Avoid the larger and king penguins on Isla Martillo, 37mi resident colony Magellanic, Gentoo, of worthwhile excursion the is Another Penguins on Marillo Isla $17/$445 drop ARS) you off theat trail. (US buses Shuttle Ushuaia. of northeast a stunning, green glacial lake 12mi (20km) hikethe two-hour to Laguna Esmeralda, of the Beagle Channel. Equally popular is the Martial Glacier, with panoramic views three-hour hike winds up to the base of Starting 4mi (7km) from the center, a Ushuaia offers plenty of day hikes. mountains, by sides three on Surrounded lakes and glaciers Ushuaia’s doorstep (US $20/$525 ARS). Maritimo ydel Presidio is open to visitors offenders,the fascinating Museo the prison has long since closed to Although pirates. and murderers mass started out as apenal colony, housing Founded by the British in 1884, Ushuaia Ushuaia in bars behind History

onslaught of cruise ship passengers. ship cruise of onslaught car and get to the park early to avoid the from 3,172ft its (967m) summit. Rent a the Cerro Guanaco trail, with great views windswept scenery. The crown jewel is dramatic, through trekking for place Due west from Ushuaia, this is the Fuego del Tierra Parque Nacional waiting to grab that deal. deal. that grab to waiting be prepared to spend up to weeks two have more frequent departures; just be had in January and February, which deals still exist. The best bargains are to luckily, cruise last-minute But dream. most of us this is achilly, expensive pipe For Antarctica. continent: white the to The ultimate adventure from Ushuaia is Voyaging to Antarctica trip. your of highlight a being up civilization. Don’t be surprised if this ends Ushuaia, it feels aworld away from (14km) 9mi Just of Williams. south settlement in the world, Chile’s Puerto southernmost actual visit the to Cross the Beagle Channel by speedboat toSouth Puerto Williams

of day hikes. plenty offers Ushuaia mountains, sides by three on Surrounded Beagle Channel Beagle

iStock - Ignacio Leonardi

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Outdoor Central Buenos Aires Aires Buenos

40

Argentina is one big, outrageously scenic playground. scenic outrageously big, one is Argentina

Outdoor

Adventure

doing underwater somersaults with playful sea lions, lions, sea playful with somersaults underwater doing

L

rapid, a multi-day trek through a cloud forest, or or forest, cloud a through trek multi-day a rapid,

of fun is a white-knuckle ride down a Class IV IV Class a down ride white-knuckle a is fun of

ove to hike? Live to camp? Whether your idea idea your Whether camp? to Live hike? to ove

Patagonia

HH iStock -StockstudioX ADVENTURE

Central Argentina OUTDOOR The North & Surrounds Buenos Aires Overview Contents OUTDOOR ADVENTURE Hiking and Trekking When it comes to hiking in Argentina, the iconic Fitz Roy trek and glacier hikes on Perito

Moreno rightly steal the glory – Contents but the less storied landscapes El Chalten

also offer ample rewards. McGrath Milly

In the rugged Northwest, trails lead 3mi (5km) hike leads southwest to Overview to ancient ruins, weave through the Rio Colorado, home to ancient Independent wind-sculpted canyons, and cross pictographs and a picturesque waterfall. hiking in these dazzling salt pans, while Mendoza parts requires draws hard-core trekkers to the world’s Jujuy Province planning. Buenos Aires Aires Buenos highest mountain outside the Himalayas: Just north of the city of Jujuy Public Surrounds& Mount Aconcagua. (75mi/120km north of Salta), the transportation Independent hiking in these parts Quebrada de Humahuaca is Northwest can be limited, requires planning. Public transportation Argentina’s main calling card. A UNESCO and trails can be limited, and trails sometimes World-Heritage Site, this long gorge sometimes unmarked and poorly maintained. It’s blazes with waves of vividly colored rock,

unmarked North The often best to hire a car, and wise to stretching north to the Bolivian border. and poorly check in with park ranger stations and Most tourist attention centers on the maintained. arrange stays at refugios (mountain spectacular Cerro de Siete Colores, the shelters). Park rangers can supply maps, stratified “Hill of Seven Colors,” which guides, and updated info. you can marvel at on a 90-minute hike Argentina

(1.8mi/3km) around the perimeter. Central Salta Province Nestled beneath the mountain, Framed by soaring Andean peaks, Purmamarca is a captivating village the Northwest delivers numerous despite its steady traffic of visitors, and day hikes and multi-day expeditions with its rich indigenous traditions and Patagonia through fantastically shaped canyons. incredible setting, it’s an ideal base for The colonial city of Salta is the local hikes and treks for all levels. tourist epicenter. Some 116mi (187km) north, the charming wine-growing The Yungas

region of Cafayate is the hub for 106mi (170km) northeast of Adventure Outdoor Outdoor Valles Calchaquíes, where traditional Purmamarca, adventurous trekkers villages nestle amid the thrusting rock and budding botanists head west formations of the Quebrada de las to Calilegua National Park. Home to Flechas. From Cafayate, a scenic, portions of the Yungas cloud forest,

41 OUTDOOR ADVENTURE

South America’s highest mountain. While Aconcagua is more of a long hike Novice trails than a mountaineering expedition, it’s include the definitely a challenge due to elevation short but (22,840ft/6,960m), severe weather, and rewarding duration (18-21 days). Still, with more Momota and than 3,500 people taking on the climb La Herradura each year, it’s a well-traveled trail and trails. If Contents very doable if you are in good shape. you want to Bear in mind that most travel insurance The Yungas make the iStock - edurivero iStock policies do not cover climbs over heart valves 19,685ft (6,000m). squeak, Overview that covers swathes of Peru, Bolivia, The “Normal” and “Polish Traverse”’ more and Argentina, its lush biodiversity is routes to the summit don’t require arduous a far cry from Salta’s arid landscape. gear or technical expertise, but they’re hikes include Accessed from the town of Libertador essential for the tougher “Polish Glacier” trails to La Buenos Aires Aires Buenos General San Martin (6mi/9km away), route, which involves crossing a glacier. Lagunita Surrounds& the park has 14mi (22km) of trails for For novice hikers who don’t have three (five hours) all abilities, which lead from the Aguas weeks to spare, tour operators in and Tataupa Negras ranger station and allow for Mendoza offer a two-day trek below the (2.5 hours). close encounters with the park’s prolific snow line to base camps and refugios, wildlife inventory: 300 species of bird, including Confluencia (10,826ft/3,300m). The North The including the majestic Andean condor, If you’re not up for a long and 60 mammals, including puma and commitment, rewarding day hikes are jaguar. accessible from Mendoza City. Some Novice trails include the short but 7.5mi (12km) west of town, El Challao rewarding Momota and La Herradura is a popular, family-friendly hike. The Argentina trails. If you want to make the heart hike to Cerro Arco (three hours return Central valves squeak, more arduous hikes trip to the summit) provides glorious include trails to La Lagunita (five hours) panoramas of the city. and Tataupa (2.5 hours) that descend Less than a three-hour drive to the river. Multi-day expeditions can from Mendoza, Cerro Penitentes Patagonia be arranged in Salta and San Salvador (14,272ft/4,350m), named for its de Jujuy and include a three-day trek jagged rock formations that resemble to Cerro Amarillo (12,205ft/3,720m) or penitent monks, can be climbed all Cerro Hermoso (10,499ft/3,200m). year round. While the moderately

rated two-day hike (16mi/26km, with Adventure Outdoor Outdoor Mendoza Province an overnight camp at the summit) The high Andes to the west of requires no technical expertise, it does Mendoza city are dominated by Mount require a high level of fitness and hiking Aconcagua, aka “Roof of the Americas,” experience.

42 OUTDOOR ADVENTURE Winter Sports When you ski or snowboard in Argentina, just invert everything you know about the North American or European winter resort experience – ski season in the Southern Hemisphere runs Contents from June to September. Cerro Catedral iStock - shimura iStock While infrastructure has improved in the last few years, lifts at some resorts can Cerro Bayo Overview be brutally slow. But you’ll enjoy fewer Some 6mi (9km) from the Lake District Rising above crowds and lower ticket prices than in town of Villa La Angostura, Bayo began beautiful North America (US $40-$62/$1,050-$1,625 as a no-frills locals hill, but has been Lake Nahuel ARS). recast as a boutique ski experience Huapi Buenos Aires Aires Buenos famed for its incredible views into Chile. just 12mi Surrounds& Las Leñas What it lacks in scale, infrastructure, and (20km) from One of the world’s largest ski resorts, amenities, it more than compensates for Bariloche, with more than 40mi (64km) of with its off-beat charm, unpretentious Catedral is runs, there’s nothing subdued about vibe, and diverse terrain. much more Mendoza’s flashy, flagship resort.

accessible North The Powder hounds flock here for the Cerro Chapelco than Las extreme backcountry skiing and Chapelco has invested more in lifts, Leñas. heli-skiing. The easiest way to get here snowmaking, and amenities than is to fly from Buenos Aires to Malargue any other Argentine resort, and it Airport (43mi/70km away), and take shows. With just 22 trails that deliver Argentina one of the frequent buses (2.5 hours). magnificent views of Volcan Lanín, the Central If you're on a budget, more affordable park is small, but surprisingly varied. accommodation is available at Los Charming San Martin de los Andes, 12mi Molles, 11mi (18km) away. (19km) away, makes an excellent base. Patagonia Cerro Catedral Cerro Castor Rising above beautiful Lake Nahuel Huapi The southernmost ski resort on the just 12mi (20km) from Bariloche, Catedral continent, Cerro Castor is accessed from is much more accessible than Las Leñas. Ushuaia (16mi/26km away) in Tierra del

The newly expanded resort features the Fuego National Park. Blessed with a Adventure Outdoor Outdoor largest lift-accessed ski terrain in South longer than average season and fantastic America, with 53 runs for all levels, along powder, Castor draws a cult crowd with snowshoeing, cross country skiing, with its family-friendly atmosphere and hiking, fishing, and horse riding. blissfully empty slopes.

43 OUTDOOR ADVENTURE Rafting, Kayaking and Diving From snorkeling with sea lions on the Patagonian coast to Contents intense whitewater rafting in the Lake District, Argentina Rafting in Mendoza iStock offers water sports for all interests and skill sets. National Park. Rafting season along Overview the Rio Manso runs from mid October Within Patagonia to early May – local outfitters offer striking A World-Heritage Site, Peninsula Valdes everything from day trips (from distance of is one of the world’s most exciting US $80/$2,095 ARS) to week-long the city, the Buenos Aires Aires Buenos places for marine life encounters. The expeditions (US $1,600/$41,920 ARS). churning Surrounds& self-proclaimed “Scuba Diving Capital of The relatively gentle Manso Clasico waters of Argentina,” Puerto Madryn offers whale (Class II-III) begins at Steffen Lake. For the Mendoza watching, scuba and wreck diving, and white-knuckle thrills, the Manso de la and snorkel trips. Full day whale-watching Frontera (Class IV) trip passes through Diamante excursions cost US $30-$100 ($786-2,620 breathtaking Velvet Canyon and ends

Rivers lure North The ARS), depending on locations visited. near the Chilean border. adventure Scuba diving with sea lions at Punta Half-day kayaking and paddleboard sport Loma (11mi/17km south) includes 45 trips on Lake Gutierrez also depart from enthusiasts. minutes of hanging out on the sea floor Bariloche. with gregarious pups, plus instruction Argentina on how to interact with them. Tours Mendoza Province Central generally include all rental equipment Within striking distance of the city, the and round-trip transportation. churning waters of the Mendoza and About 62mi (100km) west of Puerto Diamante Rivers lure adventure sport Madryn, Puerto Piramides is the base enthusiasts. Whitewater rafting trips Patagonia for sea kayaking, with outfitters on are offered year round. Most people Avenida de las Ballenas offering half- visit the rafting mecca of Potrerillos day (US $70/$1,835 ARS), full-day (US (32mi/51km west of Mendoza) on a $120/$3,145 ARS) and multi-day trips day trip from the city. Trips range from

geared to beginners and intermediates. half- and full-day trips (US $37/90 or Adventure Outdoor Outdoor $970/2,360 ARS) to two-day, Class The Lake District III-IV excursions. Experience isn’t a Bariloche is a wonderful base for prerequisite, but strongly advised for whitewater rafting in Nahuel Huapi anything above Class II.

44 OUTDOOR ADVENTURE Camping Camping is a big part of the Argentine national identity. Campgrounds are extremely busy during high season: booking ahead is highly recommended. Contents Prices noted here are per person and discounts for longer stays will apply. Patagonia iStock - Agustina Camilion - Agustina iStock

Private, municipal, wild, is a convenient base for day hikes within Overview and free camping the Northwest’s polychromatic canyons El Chalten is Most of Argentina’s national parks are (US $2/$53 ARS per night). one of the dotted with campsites of the Camping top trekking Libre ilk, which, as the name suggests, Patagonia centers in Buenos Aires Aires Buenos are free of charge and facilities; often Some 32mi (52km) from El Calafate, Argentina, Surrounds& just a latrine – but your reward is within Los Glaciares National Park, the and there unspoiled scenery and solitude. private Lago Roca Campsite raises the are three Municipal sites also have limited bar with excellent camping facilities, free amenities, but they’re generally well well-equipped cabins, hot showers, and campsites maintained and equipped with fogones a restaurant.

within a North The (open fire grills). Private campsites rival El Chalten is one of the top trekking 90-minute the best in Europe and North America, centers in Argentina, and there are walk with lots of amenities. For a truly rustic three free campsites within a 90-minute (6mi/10km) experience, you can generally pitch your walk (6mi/10km) of town: Campamento of town. tent anywhere on public land. Wherever Poincenot, Campamento Laguna Capri, Argentina you camp, be sure to remove all trash. and Padre D’Agostini. Laguna Capri Central offers the best views. Camping gear Weather in Argentina changes fast, The Lake District and smart packing is critical. If you Lago Gutierrez has unusually warm Patagonia don’t have your own gear, you can hire waters, perfect for swimming, and a what you need from camping stores or well-equipped private campsite right outfitters in adventure travel hubs. on the lake. Some 11mi (18km) from El Bolson,

Salta and the northwest Kumelen offers fully equipped cabins Adventure Outdoor Outdoor In Salta, Camping Municipal Carlos (US $70/$1,835 ARS), nice dorms (US Xamena offers easy town access and $7/$185 ARS), or camping (US $9/$235 amenities galore (US $3/$79 ARS per ARS), all with access to clean bathrooms night). In Cafayate, Camping Luz y Fuerza with hot water and a communal kitchen.

45 OUTDOOR ADVENTURE Where to See Wildlife With ecosystems ranging from austere steppe to subtropical jungle, Argentina is home to a huge diversity of flora and Contents fauna. While Patagonia and Iguazu National Park are the best known areas for wildlife viewing, the Yungas, El Chaco, and Pampa de Achala regions offer an Overview equally rewarding (and often Condor

more intimate) experience. Merkel Rodriguez -Pablo iStock Buenos Aires Aires Buenos

The Yungas from Salta to Libertador General San Surrounds& The arid landscapes around Salta are a Martin (6mi or 9km away), and then Named for world apart from the cloud and montane from Libertador to San Francisco, within the park’s forests that comprise the Yungas. Parque the park. poster child, Nacional Calilegua is one of Argentina’s In the center of Salta Province, the Andean most biologically diverse ecosystems, Parque Nacional El Rey preserves

condor, North The with more than 270 identified animal another remarkable tranche of Yungas Quebrada del species, including 50 per cent of all bird cloud forest. The park’s biodiversity is Condorito species in the country. But you’ll have impressive, with 21 species of reptiles, National Park to get seriously deep in the forest (and 255 species of birds, and 50 species undulates be very lucky) to catch a glimpse of the of mammals. Located 125mi (200km) across the Argentina Central Central park’s resident mammals, which include from Salta, tour operators offer 4x4 day high peaks of jaguar, ocelot, puma, monkeys, otters, tours for around US $250 ($6,560 ARS), the Sierras de peccaries, and tapir. with the focus on hiking and wildlife Cordoba. Guided tours are available from watching. Salta and San Salvador de Jujuy, and El Baritu National Park is the least Patagonia a trained guide will greatly improve accessible of the northwest’s national your chances of spotting the park’s parks, requiring a stop in Bolivia to elusive mammals. Calilegua is massive, reach Aguas Blancas and Los Toldos, so spending a night at the Aguas the regional gateways. For hard-core

Negras campsite is recommended. wildlife enthusiasts, it’s worth the trek. Adventure Outdoor Outdoor Independent travelers can access the park from San Salvador de Jujuy (75mi Pampa de Achala or 120km) and from Salta (106mi or Named for the park’s poster child, 170km). There are regular bus services the Andean condor, Quebrada del

46 Condorito National Park undulates across the high peaks of the Sierras de Cordoba. Accessible year-round, the park’s canyons are prime condor nesting sites, and can be visited with little effort from Villa Carlos Paz (34mi or 55km), or Cordoba (56mi or 90km).

Most travelers take the moderately Contents rated, 6mi (9km) Senda a La Quebrada Maned wolf

del Condorito, a marked hiking trail - wrangel iStock which descends to Balcon Norte, a lookout point where young condors with a wildlife inventory that includes Overview hone their flight skills at what is known jaguar, maned wolf, puma, anteaters, What the as the Escuela de Vuelo (Flight School). and the world’s largest armadillo. Gran Chaco The park is also home to less- Birders will be in their element, with lacks in conspicuous mammals, including puma over 500 species logged in the Chaco’s scenic Buenos Aires Aires Buenos and red fox, as well as more visible dry region. majesty it Surrounds& snakes, lizards, and geckos; be mindful Human influence here has been more than of the park’s venomous snakes, namely minimal, and the few travelers that makes the big yarara. The birdlife is prolific venture here generally do so on a up for in – in addition to condors, you may see guided tour; most of the Chaco is biodiversity, grey-hooded parakeets, Magellanic inaccessible, with poor transport links

with a North The woodpeckers, and the protected and horrendous roads. The region’s wildlife grey-hooded sierra finch. Most travelers most accessible national parks are inventory sign up for a tour from Cordoba, but Parque Nacional Chaco (reached from that includes independent travelers can take a bus Resistencia), and Parque Nacional Río jaguar, from Cordoba to the park’s entrance at Pilcomayo (reached from Formosa) maned Argentina La Pampilla (about 1.5 hours; direction In the center of the Chaco region, wolf, puma, Central Mina Clavero). El Impenetrable – Argentina’s newest anteaters, national park – offers spectacular and the El Gran Chaco bird and animal life. The park’s wetter world’s Located in one of Argentina’s poorest regions are a haven for capybara, largest Patagonia regions, there’s no shortage of two species of caiman, and tapir. armadillo. superlatives to describe Gran Chaco. Park facilities are non-existent and Covering vast swathes of Argentina, (at the time of writing) there is no Paraguay, Bolivia, and Brazil, the Chaco accommodation close to the park.

contains the second-largest forest on Independent travelers can access the Adventure Outdoor Outdoor the continent and ranks as the largest park at Paraje La Armonia (37mi or dry forest in South America. What the 60km from Miraflores), which is linked Gran Chaco lacks in scenic majesty it by bus service from Miraflores to Nueva more than makes up for in biodiversity, Pompeya.

47 OUTDOOR ADVENTURE Best Road Trips Argentina is an incredibly diverse country with endless things to see and do – but it’s also a very large country. To make the most Contents of it, your best bet is to choose a region (or two), rent a car and road-trip around.

Having your own wheels is the ultimate Overview in travel freedom, and is the absolute best way to find hidden gems and off- track spots. Unless you plan to do a full Quebrada de las Flechas Buenos Aires Aires Buenos iStock - Gassen iStock

“loop” during your Argentina travels, it’s Surrounds& best to rent and return from the same place to save the hefty drop-off fee. and restaurants in Salta City • Quebradas de las Conchas National Located Salta and Jujuy itinerary Park on the drive from Salta to in the These two provinces are unlike Cafayate

Northwest North The anywhere else in the country. Located • The amazing wineries surrounding and in the Northwest and bordered Cafayate (don’t miss Bad Brothers, El bordered by Chile, Paraguay, and Bolivia, Esteco, and Piattelli Vineyards) by Chile, everything has a traditional feeling • Quebrada de las Flechas (jagged rock Paraguay, here, including clothing, music, and formations)

and Bolivia, Argentina food. Before the Spanish conquest, • Old Route 9 with lush green scenery, everything Central this area was inhabited by indigenous rivers, and gorges has a tribes, including the Quilmes and • The traditional feel and food in Tilcara traditional Humahuacas. Fun facts: Quilmes is the (try the llama!) feeling here, name of a popular beer in Argentina, • The colourful mountains in including Patagonia and Quebradas de Humahuaca is one of Purmamarca (best seen at dawn) clothing, the most stunning drives in the area. • The blindingly white Salinas Grandes music, and Suggested route: Salta (a few days), (salt flats). food. Cafayate (a few days), Cachi (one night),

Tilcara (a few days), Salinas Grandes Mendoza itinerary Adventure Outdoor Outdoor (day trip from Tilcara), Purmamarca (day Mendoza is most famous for its trip from Tilcara), Salta (finish). acclaimed wineries surrounded by Highlights of this area include: Andean peaks, but there’s plenty to do • Museums, architecture, parks, plazas, in the area that doesn’t involve grapes.

48 OUTDOOR ADVENTURE

The city is actually a university town with lots of lively bars and restaurants attracting a younger crowd. During your trip to Mendoza, we suggest driving out to the famous wineries of Norton, Ruca Malen, and Trapiche for lunch and wine (but just a glass, you’re driving!). Contents Then, drive to Aconcagua (22,840ft/6960m) the tallest mountain outside of Asia and the highest peak in the southern hemisphere.

A 120mi (193km) drive through twisty Overview mountain roads will bring you to the Aconcagua Provincial Park. A US $20 ($525 ARS) pass gives you you access Aconcagua Buenos Aires Aires Buenos iStock -pawopa3336 iStock

all the way up to the Base Camp (a Surrounds& six-hour return hike). Or, for a mere US $1.30 ($34 ARS), you can access the destination to explore by car. Packing for park up until the trailhead, which allows There are many routes you can take, a Road Trip you about two hours of hiking. but here’s our suggested itinerary: Many areas of Finally, after you’ve eaten, sipped, Bariloche (a few days), Circuito Chico Argentina are

desert, and you’ll North The and hiked your way around Mendoza, (day trip from Bariloche), Limay River often find yourself it’s time to relax. Drive out to the (day trip from Bariloche), Villa La in the middle of Termas Cacheuta, about 90 minutes Angostura (a few days), San Martin de nowhere – which is a good thing, from town. Enjoy the thermal springs in los Andes (a few days), Lake Lolog (day if you’re properly stone pools with views of the Andes – trip from San Martín de los Andes), prepared. This Argentina there’s also a spa and restaurant. Bariloche (finish) means having a Central Note: if you want to drive your rental Highlights of this road trip include: full tank of gas, first-aid kit, a spare car over the border from Argentina into • Bariloche, offering views of the Andes tire, tools, a map, Chile, you’ll need written permission Mountains, the Circuito Chico drive data plan on your from the rental company and the with hiking and lakes to explore, and phone, a Spanish translation app or Patagonia proper insurance to do so. Speak to the great restaurants (try Alto el Fuego) phrasebook, plus car rental agent before attempting to • Fly fishing on the Limay River non-perishable cross, or you’ll be turned away if you • Hiking around Lake Nahuel Huapi and food and drinking don’t have the correct documents. Correntoso Lake in Villa La Angostura water.

• Lanin National Park outside of San Adventure Outdoor Outdoor Lake District itinerary Martin de los Andes Patagonia’s Lake District is just that • Fly fishing and a picnic at Lake Lolog – a district of gorgeous lakes. It’s an • Wandering the pretty streets of San incredibly scenic area, and the perfect Martin de los Andes.

49 OUTDOOR ADVENTURE Off the Beaten Path Argentina’s vast territory hides many secret treasures. From a lost village, to a moon-like

volcanic plain, to a prehistoric Contents lagoon, here are four worth going out of your way for.

Yavi and Yavi Chico, Jujuy Province Overview Over 11,280ft (3,440m) above sea level, Yavi stands frozen in time, its arid Andean landscapes contrasting with the willow Barreal Blanco Buenos Aires Aires Buenos iStock - piccaya iStock

trees that grow by the river and the Surrounds& houses made of clay. Located near the Bolivian border, was a lagoon. Today, it’s a 9mi (15km) 2.5 hours from the backpacker’s haven long, 3mi (5km) wide expanse of flat, In prehistoric of Humahuaca, this barely populated white, dry soil with no vegetation at times, the village is the last town in Argentina that all and winds that blow at more than

Barreal North The belonged to the Royal Road. During the 75mph (120kph). Blanco was days of Spanish rule, precious minerals This unique feature makes Barreal a lagoon. were transported through here from Blanco the perfect spot for “land- Today, it’s a Peru, making Yavi a powerful marquisate. sailing” – an adrenaline-producing, 9mi (15km) Visitors can check out the Marques de unconventional sport like windsurfing,

long, 3mi Argentina Tojo’s elegant colonial-style house, now but on land. Even if you try to stand (5km) wide Central a museum, and the 17th-century church still, the wind will take you. You can expanse with its gold-plated altar. book the experience locally, or bring of flat, A short hike takes you to even smaller your own “carro.” white, dry Yavi Chico, which has an archeological Just 11mi (17km) from the Barreal soil with no Patagonia museum and – along the river – cave Blanco is the Complejo Astronomico El vegetation paintings that date back centuries. Leoncito. This astronomical observatory at all. For those who wish to stay, there’s a can be visited on a guided tour – it’s municipal campsite just by the Marques’ also possible to spend the night if you

house, or the Hostal de Yavi. book in advance. This particular spot Adventure Outdoor Outdoor has 300 clear nights a year and no light Barreal Blanco, aka “Pampa el pollution, so sightings of the Milky Leoncito,” San Juan Province Way are guaranteed. There’s another In prehistoric times, the Barreal Blanco observatory nearby, the Observatorio

50 OUTDOOR ADVENTURE

Astronomico U. CESCO, that can also be visited. As this area is part of the Leoncito National Park, it’s best accessed from the nearest town, Barreal.

Parque Nacional Sierra de las

Quijadas, San Luis Province Contents Though few travelers know about this national park, it has a very rich cultural and palaeontological heritage. It was La Payunia

once home of the Huarpes Tribe and, - T-Immagini iStock long before, of the pterodaustro; a Overview dinosaur species that hasn’t been Travelers usually visit for the day from found anywhere else. the main towns nearby, like Merlo or This moon- The park’s extremely arid landscape Lujan. like landscape Buenos Aires Aires Buenos

and dramatic rock formations Surrounds& has one of the resemble the Grand Canyon. Reserva Provincial highest and Temperatures can rise up to more than La Payunia, Mendoza most varied 99°F (37°C) – some of the activities The Pampa Negra was formed by concentrations within the park may be suspended more than 800 volcanic cones, turning of volcanic when this happens, and during it into a black desert. This moon-like activity on North The summer months hikes are generally landscape has one of the highest and earth. not held during siesta hours. most varied concentrations of volcanic The main features of the park are activity on earth. Still an off-the- the Potrero de la Aguada (a natural beaten-path destination, La Payunia amphitheater carved by wind and can only be visited in the company of an Argentina water) and Farallones (walls of red authorized guide. Central sandstone over 656ft/200m high). Travelers can either hire a guide to Explorers can do some hikes, such join them and self-drive, or do a day trip as the Guanacos trail, on their own, with a tour operator. This is to preserve but must register at the park’s office the solitude of this volcanic wonderland Patagonia beforehand. Other hikes, like the and to prevent people from getting lost Farallones (four hours) or Las Huellas or getting their vehicle stuck in the soft del Pasado (two hours) require a guide. black sand. If you self-drive, you’ll need This is quite an isolated area, and an SUV.

there’s no public transport, so make All guided tours depart from Adventure Outdoor Outdoor sure you are stocked with plenty of Malargue, 93mi (150km) away. There’s water, food, and proper clothing (and a no accommodation nearby and the visit full gas tank if driving). There is a basic lasts the whole day, so you only need to camping and recreation area nearby. sit back and enjoy the ride.

51 Essential traveling, however if you’re carrying cash and you don’t see it get stolen, Having your Insurance Tips the line between loss and theft gets passport blurred – and policies don’t cover loss If you’re heading to Argentina, stolen of cash. chances are that you’ll be skiing, overseas There is also cover for stolen cash if snowboarding, or hiking. And can strike it’s been taken from a locked safe and fear into

while you’re wandering the Contents there’s evidence of damage or forced the most streets, you may experience entry. Keeping your money in a safe petty crime. We’ve created seasoned shows that you’ve done everything in traveler. this guide to help you navigate your power to keep the cash safe. And travel insurance, so you can of course, forced entry helps validate make the most of your trip. your claim. Overview If your cash is stolen, you must BAGGAGE report it to the police as soon as Cash possible, and get something in Buenos Aires Aires Buenos

The theft of cash is common in writing from them. We know that Surrounds& Argentina, so it’s important that you language, corruption, and straight-out know where your insurance cover indifference can be a barrier to police does and doesn’t apply – especially if assistance in some countries, but our you’re the type of traveler who takes insurance partners require certain out large amounts of money to avoid documentation to validate and process The North The international transaction fees. claims. First up, there’s no cover for stolen cash for American, Brazilian, or Passports Canadian travelers. You can’t add it on Having your passport stolen overseas to the policy as an extra, either. can strike fear into the most seasoned Argentina

Secondly, for all other travelers traveler. While your mum can send you Central where there is cover, you’ll need to money if your credit card is stolen, or buy the Explorer plan, and an excess you can borrow a friend’s bra after will apply. An excess means that we’ll the laundromat attendant says “what deduct a certain amount (which your clothes?”, replacing your passport isn’t Patagonia policy will specify) from your claim so easy to do. Travel insurance before you’re paid out. Our 24/7 emergency assistance isn’t designed to Lastly, there are also conditions of teams can give you advice on what cover everything, cover that vary from policy to policy. to do if your passport is stolen, and so take the time to read the full

For example, most policies require you direct you to the nearest consulate to Adventure

description of Outdoor to actually witness your cash being get a replacement. However, not all cover in your policy stolen in order for it to be covered. policies cover emergency replacement wording, so you'll know exactly what We’re well aware that pickpocketing passports. There’s no cover for US or is and isn't covered. occurs and is an unfortunate part of Brazilian residents, but for everyone

52 else, our travel insurance policies can cover your emergency replacement passport expenses. The good news for Americans, Brits, and Irish, is that cover applies for additional expenses incurred while you’re delayed as a result of a stolen passport, such as the cost of additional Contents meals and local transport. As with stolen cash, you’ll need to report the theft to the police as soon as possible and get something in writing from them. Overview

What is an excess and Skiing in Patagonia why is it there? - Buenaventuramariano iStock Buenos Aires Aires Buenos

A policy excess (also known as a Surrounds& deductible) is the amount that you’re activities you’re doing, giving you required to contribute towards your access to the help you need when you claim before your policy kicks in. Most need it. travel insurance policies come with an If you visit our helpdesk, or read excess, which will be deducted from through the activities section of the The North The your claim if it’s successful. If your purchase path, you’ll be able to see claim is less than the excess, then you the level of cover that you’ll need. All don’t get paid out. If your claim isn’t plans are different and may require successful, you’re not required to pay an upgrade for certain activities. Read the excess. the policy wording carefully to choose Argentina

The reason travel insurance policies the right plan and/or adventure sport Central have an excess is to keep the premium option for your trip. down. This is done by eliminating many of the smaller claims. While that Skiing & Snowboarding might seem unfair, it also means that Argentina’s slopes provide ample Patagonia the premium is more affordable for opportunity to hone your skills. Big bigger claims, such as overseas medical dumps, fresh tracks and bluebird days or bringing you home for further will make for an epic trip, yet accidents treatment if you’re sick or injured. on and off the hill do happen, even to

the most experienced sliders. All of our Adventure Outdoor Outdoor ACTIVITIES insurers cover skiing and snowboarding, World Nomads travel insurance though not all policies do, so make sure policies are designed so you can you select the correct policy for your ski choose the right policy for the trip at the time of purchase.

53 When you get a quote online, you’ll Hiking Weather see that there’s a list of sports and Apart from planning for the weather conditions can change quickly, so activities with the corresponding (and packing correctly), you’ll need to make sure you’re level of cover next to it. Read this know the altitude that you’ll be hiking/ prepared. Search list carefully so you know if you need trekking to in Argentina, so you can and rescue isn’t to upgrade your policy at the time buy the correct level of coverage at covered in any of our policies, so of purchase. It’s worth remembering the time of purchase. Many parts of make sure you that you can’t upgrade a policy once Argentina are thinly populated and know where you Contents you’ve bought it. So, if you buy a remote, which can make it difficult to are at all times. policy without the correct cover for get help if you don’t have insurance. skiing or snowboarding, and the If you get altitude sickness or you’re policy has started or is outside of injured on the mountain and don’t have the free-look period, you’ll need to the right insurance, or any insurance for Overview buy an additional policy for the time that matter, a heli-evac to get you to you’re on the slopes in Argentina (or medical care can be very expensive. anywhere else for that matter!). And, If you do get injured in the Buenos Aires Aires Buenos

as you’ve traveled on your policy, you mountains, it’s essential that you get in Surrounds& won’t be able to get a refund for the touch with our emergency assistance duplicate. teams straight away, so that they can Provided you’ve selected and support you from the time you fall bought the correct policy, you’re not sick or get injured, until the time you putting yourself needlessly at risk, recover. They’ll be able to help you get The North The and you’re adhering to the policy to the nearest hospital, if you need it, terms and conditions, if you tear and get you home, if required, so that an ACL or MCL, pop a knee, or are you can get the ongoing medical care involved in any other injury as a result that you need. of skiing or snowboarding, the policy However, once you’re home, cover Argentina covers medivac including ski patrol, stops, so you’ll need to have access to Central hospitalization, outpatient treatment government health care or your own and other medical expenses. You can private medical insurance for those read more here. costs. Patagonia

All of the information we provide about travel insurance is a brief summary only. It does not include all terms, conditions, limitations, exclusions and termination provisions of the travel insurance plans described. Coverage may not be available for residents of all countries, states or provinces. Please carefully read your policy wording for a full description of coverage. WorldNomads.com Pty Limited (ABN 62 127 485 198 AR 343027) at Governor Macquarie Tower, Level 18, 1 Farrer Place, Sydney, NSW, 2000, Australia is an Authorised Representative of Cerberus Special Risks Pty Limited (ABN 81 115 932 173 AFSL 308461) and is underwritten by certain underwriters at Lloyd's. World Nomads Travel Lifestyle (Europe) Limited (CN 601852) markets and promotes travel insurance products of Nomadic Insurance Benefits Limited (CN 601851), First Floor, City Quarter, Lapps Quay, Cork, Ireland. Nomadic Insurance Benefits Limited is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. WorldNomads.com Pty Limited markets and promotes travel insurance products of Nomadic Insurance Limited (License No.1446874), at PO Box 1051, Grand Cayman KY1-1102, Cayman Islands. World Nomads Limited (05443592) is an Appointed Representative

of Millstream Underwriting Limited (FCA Firm ref: 308584) at 52-56 Leadenhall Street, London, EC3A 2DX, United Kingdom. World Nomads Inc. (1585422), at 520 3rd Street, Adventure Suite 201, Oakland, CA 94607, plans are administered by Trip Mate Inc. (in CA & UT, dba, Trip Mate Insurance Agency) at 9225 Ward Parkway, Suite 200, Kansas City, MO, 64114, Outdoor USA, with 24-hour and Assistance Services provided by One Call Worldwide Travel Services Network, Inc. and plans underwritten by Nationwide Mutual Insurance Company and affiliated companies, Columbus, OH. World Nomads (Canada) Ltd (BC: 0700178; Business No: 001 85379 7942 RC0001) is a licensed agent sponsored by AIG Insurance Company of Canada at 120 Bremner Boulevard, Suite 2200, Toronto, Ontario, M5J 0A8, Canada. World Experiences Seguros De Viagem Brasil Ltda (CNPJ: 21.346.969/0001-99) at Rua Padre João Manuel, 755, 16º andar, São Paulo – SP, Brazil is an Authorized Partner (Representante) of Zurich Minas Brasil Seguros S.A. (CNPJ: 17.197.385/0001-21) at Av. Getúlio Vargas, 1420, 5th floor, Funcionários, Belo Horizonte, State of Minas Gerais through the SUSEP Process 15414.901107/2015-77. All World Nomads entities listed above, including Nomadic Insurance Benefits Limited and Nomadic Insurance Limited, are subsidiaries of nib holdings limited (ABN 51 125 633 856).

54 Contents iStock - daboost iStock Overview

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contributors: Surrounds&

Evelin Armella

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Martina Grossi Gullfoss to discover out-of-the-way Central Gerry Isabelle hot pools and cascades. Caroline Lascom Julia Melancon New Zealand Insider's Guide Violeta Meotto Patagonia Marisa Megan Paska From Cape Reinga in the north to Morgan Pettersson Fjordland in the south, our insiders show you the best of both islands. Ed Salvato Maureen Shaughnessy Adventure Outdoor Outdoor Peru Insider’s Guide Peru is more than Machu Picchu. Explore secret ruins, secluded trails, All images from stock libraries unless otherwise credited and remote villages with our insiders.

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