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Home , Idiyappam, Kuzhambu, Parotta, Poriyal

eat out eateat away out chef special chefMadurai special

EASY MENU FOR 4 eat like a local T Kothu T Kaara T Vendakkai T Madurai MADURAI T Jigarthanda Fondly called the food capital of , the temple city of Madurai welcomes visitors with its varied cuisine — from Chettinad specialities to Words and photographs CHARUKESI RAMADURAI Food photographs JOY MANAVATH

adurai has been a beverage — the jigarthanda. Literally Kothu parotta city of commerce, meaning ‘heart cooler’, it is a tall glass Serves 2 n 20 minutes + resting with trade relations of sarsaparilla syrup (locally known n EASY extending to the as nannari), almond jelly (also called Kothu parotta being MRomans and Greeks. Arab merchants badam pisin), sugar, milk and ice cream, A popular roadside , this made on a griddle and Sufi saints also made their way with a garnish of almonds and pistas. recipe can be made using leftover to the city to trade with the Pandya Madurai is inordinately fond of parathas. You can experiment with kings since 900 AD. Closer to home, fried , with shops proudly Bharathi Mohan both vegetarian and non-vegetarian the local Chettiar community traded carrying names like ‘Tamizhaga Ennai is the head chef options. extensively with Ceylon (now Sri Palagaram’ (Tamil Nadu Oil Snacks). at Heritage A lady weaving a garland with Lanka), and . And are considered incomplete Madurai. He maida 1 cup malligaipoo (jasmine) Moreover, silk weavers and merchants unless they come dripping with , hails from milk 1/2 cup from Saurashtra in Gujarat have made such as the gooey Thirunelveli halwa at Trichy in Tamil salt to taste Vendakkai poriyal Madurai home for several centuries Prema Vilas Lala Sweet Shop. Nadu but has oil 2 tsp + extra for frying now. What characterises Madurai’s worked in leaves a few Today, Madurai’s food is a happy cuisine is the abundant use of freshly several Indian 2, finely chopped union of all these influences but mainly ground masalas. The most common states, as well 1, finely chopped that of , which is ingredients used in cooking are red as the Maldives. green chillies 2, finely chopped known for its fiery flavours. The chilli, fresh , , , He specialises mixed (carrot, cabbage, Chettinad story is seen in the - and curry leaves. Star anise, in authentic beans) 1 cup, finely chopped based snacks like paniyaram (savoury kalpasi (a lichen, also known as dagad south Indian chilli powder 1 tsp snack, shallow fried in a special mould) phool) and Marathi moggu are used cuisine and powder 1 tsp and (string hoppers), primarily in gravies, along with bay seafood. fennel (saunf) powder 1/2 tsp varieties of kuzhambu (spicy ) and leaves, , fennel seeds, black coriander leaves a handful, for a wide repertoire of meat dishes, from pepper and poppy seeds in varying garnish chicken and mutton to crab and rabbit. proportions. In a nod to the sweltering Kothu parotta — a flaky that is heat of the region, salted and sun- n In a bowl, mix refined flour, salt and spiced and minced on a hot griddle — dried vegetables and meats (known as milk. Knead well. Add a little water if is the culinary legacy of but vatthal) are also used. required. Make a stiff and keep is commonly found in Madurai in Madurai takes its sobriquet it aside for 30 minutes. various avatars that include veggies, of ‘thoonga nagaram’ (the city that n Heat the tawa. Meanwhile, take a eggs and meat. never sleeps) very seriously. Well into small ball of dough, roll it out to form The Madurai biryani is spicier than midnight, street stalls resound with the a thin parotta and apply a layer of oil. the more famous Hyderabadi and clangs of kothu parotta being chopped Cook on the tawa until both the sides Lucknowi versions. The Muslims are up and special Madurai biryani being are done. Repeat with the remaining believed to have brought it in, along ladled out by the plateful for the dough and chop the parottas into Filter coffee at one with Madurai’s most popular roadside thronging locals and tourists alike. small pieces. of the coffee bars

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Nannari syrup n Heat oil in the tawa again. Add n Add chilli, coriander, , black is a heat-buster used in making curry leaves, onions, green chillies pepper and fennel powders. Sauté well beverages and sauté for 3-4 minutes. until the raw smell goes off. n Add chilli, coriander and fennel n Add tomatoes and tamarind extract powders, and mix well. Add the and stir. Add 1 1/2 cups of water and tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes. salt. If adding the vegetables, add it n Add the mixed vegetables, cover during this stage. Cover and cook for with a lid and simmer until the 20-25 minutes over a low flame. vegetables are cooked. n Stir in and switch off n Then tip in the chopped parotta and the flame. Season to taste. cook for 3-4 minutes. n Garnish with coriander leaves and n Remove from the tawa and garnish serve with hot steamed rice. with coriander leaves. Vendakkai poriyal Kaara kuzhambu Serves 2 n 20 minutes n EASY Serves 2 n 30 minutes n EASY This stir-fry recipe made with okra is This spicy stew is prepared by cooking very easy to prepare. Wipe the okra the vegetables in tamarind extract, completely dry before cooking to and spiked with a special blend of prevent the dish from getting sticky. If powder. Serve it with rice and it does get sticky, don’t panic — it will be vegetable poriyal or kootu. fine after a few minutes of stirring over a low flame. sesame oil 2 tsp LOCAL KNOWLEDGE mustard seeds 1 tsp oil 1 tsp n The Meenakshi temple is at the heart of Madurai, with the Marathi moggu 2 (if not available, mustard seeds 1/2 tsp main streets spreading out as concentric squares around it. you can substitute this with capers) urad 1/2 tsp Most of the important shopping and eating joints are in the star anise 2 red chilli 1 dry Kaara kuzhambu Jigarthanda temple area. mace 1 garlic 2-3 cloves, finely chopped n Madurai is known for its food from the ‘mess’, local curry leaves a few curry leaves a few eateries serving home-cooked, non-vegetarian food. This red chillies 2 dried green chilli 1, finely chopped The marriage of Meenakshi and tradition is believed to have started with the influx of a large onions 10-12 small, chopped 5-6, chopped Shiva, presided by Vishnu is the leitmotif in the temples number of people from neighbouring towns and villages garlic 10 cloves, chopped okra 1 cup, thinly sliced in rounds during festival times at the Meenakshi temple. chilli powder 2 tsp powder a pinch n Rice is present at every meal in Madurai, either as plain coriander powder 1 tsp chilli powder 1 tsp white rice, or flavoured rice such as lemon rice, puliyodharai, cumin powder 1/2 tsp cumin powder 1/2 tsp tomato rice and biryani, or in the form of , , powder 1 tsp salt 1/2 tsp + extra to taste paniyaram, or idiyappam. The favoured rice, even fennel powder 1/2 tsp tomato 1, chopped while preparing biryani, is the local Ponni, and not Basmati. tomatoes 2, chopped coconut 1 tbsp, grated tamarind extract 100 ml (if using coriander leaves 1 tbsp, finely chopped GETTING THERE readymade paste, use 1 tbsp) Madurai airport is at a distance of 13 km from the city drumsticks 1, peeled and cut in n Heat oil in a pan. Add mustard centre and is connected by road from all areas of the city. 5cm sticks (optional) seeds, urad dal, red chilli, garlic, There are domestic flights to Madurai from all major cities brinjal 1, cut into cubes (optional) curry leaves and green chilli. Allow in . One can also opt to travel by train, as Madurai is salt to taste them to crackle. connected to all major cities and towns across India. The coconut milk 2 tbsp n Add onion and then sauté until railway station is one of the busiest in the country and has salt 1/2 tsp + extra to taste light brown. Add okra, turmeric, chilli computerised reservation counters. If you live not too far coriander leaves a handful and cumin powders, and salt. away, travelling by bus is another option. From Madurai n Cook on low heat, making sure it Integrated Bus Terminus (MIBT) many buses to locations all n Heat oil in a shallow frying pan and does not turn sticky. Then add the over operate round the clock. From Arapalayam add mustard seeds, Marathi moggu, tomato and mix well. bus stand, buses to places of western Tamil Nadu like Theni, star anise, mace, curry leaves and red n Finish with grated coconut and Coimbatore, Tirupur, Erode, Salem operate and Periyar bus chillies and allow them to crackle. chopped coriander leaves, before stand is where only city buses and private buses to major n Add onions and garlic, and fry until serving. cities operate. golden brown in colour.

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020-022-L4 Eat like a local Madurai-SHAILESH.indd 102 18/11/14 3:59 PM 020-022-L4 Eat like a local Madurai-SHAILESH.indd 103 18/11/14 3:59 PM eat outaway chefMadurai special

Madurai vegetable n Strain the rice and mix it in. biryani Place the vessel on a hot tawa. Serves 8 n 30 minutes Cook for 15 minutes covered n EASY with a lid. Check for doneness. Sprinkle with coriander and mint This biryani features a host of leaves before serving. that make it aromatic and flavoursome. Jeeraga Sambha or Jigarthanda Ponni, a popular south Indian rice Serves 2 n 5 minutes + soaking variety is used to make this dish. n EASY

rice 1 kg The badam pisin, or almond gum, oil 4 tsp in jigarthanda is what separates bay leaves 2 it from its northern cousin, the cinnamon 2 , which uses . 2 While falooda is scooped up and cloves 2 eaten, jigarthanda is stirred and star anise 2 drunk. marathi moggu 2 green chillies 5, slit badam pisin (almond tree gum) Madurai vegetable biryani onions 9 small, 3 sliced and 1/4 cup (you can substitute it with 6 chopped 2 tsp of subza beej) ginger-garlic paste 3 tsp vanilla ice cream 2 scoops MINI GUIDE TO MADURAI chilli powder 1 tsp whole milk 3 cups EAT coriander powder 2 tsp sugar 1/4 cup + extra to taste n Madurai Idli Shop is a mandatory pit stop for visitors, with that are garam masala 1 tsp sarsaparilla (nannari) syrup said to be as soft as Madurai’s famous malligaipoo (jasmine). Definitely French beans 1 cup, chopped 2 tsp try their onion , topped generously with a dollop of butter carrot 1 cup, chopped rose essence 1 tsp or ghee and small shallots. Ignore the and focus on the four cauliflower 1 cup, chopped pistachios 2 tbsp, sliced varieties of served on the plantain leaf. 1/2 cup n Drop in at the no-frills Amma Mess at Thallakulam for a meaty feast; lemon 1 tbsp, juiced n Soak badam pisin in double try the chicken dosa, prawn biryani and mutton kola(fried mutton balls). mint a few leaves, chopped the amount of water over night. n Beat the heat with bovonto, the local grape cola, or nannarisherbet, coriander a few leaves, chopped (Once it soaks, the quantity will both available at all roadside stalls. turmeric powder 1 tsp be doubled and it will have a jelly- n At the end of the day, wash it all down with a glass of Jil Jil Jigarthanda salt to taste like consistency). Or if you are at the ‘Famous Jigarthanda’ shop on East Marrat Street. using subza beej, soak them in n Soak the rice for 30 minutes. water for 15 minutes, then drain SLEEP n Heat oil in a pan. Add bay and use as required. n Heritage Madurai (heritagemadurai.com) once housed the prestigious leaves, cinnamon, cardamom, n Boil milk in a saucepan over Madurai Club, designed by Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa. The cloves, star anise, Marathi moggu medium heat and simmer. Allow extension, overseen by Bawa’s disciple Vinod Jayasinghe, preserves the and green chilli and sauté until milk to thicken and reduce to half original architectural flavour, which includes rough granite floors, and fragrant. the quantity. Add sugar and let it pillars and lush open spaces. n Add the sliced and chopped become a thick liquid. Switch off n Get away from the crowds at The Gateway by Taj (thegatewayhotels. onions, and sauté until golden the flame and let it cool. com). Set on Pasumalai hill on the outskirts of Madurai, it offers great brown. n In a tall serving glass, add views of the city. n Add ginger-garlic paste, half the quantity of the badam chilli, coriander and garam pisin. To this, add 3/4 cup of the DO masala powders, and sauté reduced milk. n Explore local , including soft rice, millet idiyappam with for 2-3 minutes. n Add a big scoop of vanilla coconut milk, and paruthi paal (a made with cotton seed, n Add all the vegetables, curd, ice cream on top, followed by a and ginger) with Foodies Day Out (foodiesdayout.com). lemon juice, mint and coriander spoonful of nannari syrup and n Visit the sprawling Thirumalai Nayakkar Mahal, the 17th century leaves, and turmeric, and mix rose essence. palace of the emperor of the Nayak dynasty. well. n Garnish with pistachios and n Shop for soft cotton Sungudi saris, made with local tie-and-dye n Add 1 1/2 liters of water to this serve immediately. techniques, at Rangachari Cloth Store on South Street. and bring it to a boil.

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