Wine Cocktails Ruffino Ruby Squeeze

VALENTINE’S DAY COCKTAILS

SOUTHSIDE KISS 2 oz Empress 1908 Gin ¾ oz Fresh Lime Juice ¾ oz Simple Syrup Mint Leaves Cherry and Mint leaves (for garnish)

Method: Muddle, shake on ice and strain into a chilled glass. Garnish with a mint leaf and a LOVE IN VAIN premium cherry. 2 oz Bumbu Rum 1 oz Ginger Syrup 1 oz Grenadine Candied Ginger (for garnish) 1 oz Fresh Lemon Juice

Method: In a mixing glass add all ingredients and shake vigorously. Double strain into a chilled coupe and garnish RUBY FIZZ with a heart-shaped candiedFEBRUARY ginger piece. 2020 1½ oz Old Forester 86 Proof 2 oz. Club Soda ½ oz Ginger Syrup 2 droppers Old Forester 2 oz Raspberry Lambic MarylandHummingbird l Bitters Washington, DC l Delaware

Method: Old Forester and warm ginger harmonize as a grounding base for this juicy, 10 16 refreshing raspberry lambic fizz cocktail. The bitters accent with citrus and cardamom. Combine all ingredients in Collins glass filled with ice. Garnish with lemon peel.

14 26 SUGAR & SPICE MARGARITA by Nate Fishman, Liquor Lab RED VELVET CAKE 6 three-inch Cinnamon Sticks 1 oz Amarula Cream Liqueur 1 cup Pomegranate Juice ⅔ oz Red Berry Vodka 1 cup Sugar ⅔ oz Beetroot Juice 16 oz Santera Blanco Tequila ⅔ oz White Chocolate Syrup 8 oz Lime ⅓ oz Grenadine 3 oz Water Method: Toast cinnamon sticks over low heat, 3-5 minutes, until Method: “Roll” ingredients (pour aromatic; transfer to a large bowl, stir in pomegranate juice and back and forth between mixing sugar until incorporated. Mix this pomegranate-cinnamon sugar glasses). Fine strain into martini glass. with tequila, lime and water in a pitcher and pour over ice to Garnish with vanilla foam. serve. Garnish with a cinnamon stick. Serves 10-12. 08 32

FEATURES 16 08 32 WHEN FINE WINE VALENTINE'S DAY MARKET SHOTS MEETS CASUAL DINING COCKTAILS Promotions, Happenings 10 & News From the Local WHEN COUNTING Top wine pros share strategies for quality Markets REALLY COUNTS service without the fuss 24 BAR TALK Improving your physical Rum Central inventory system saves money, headaches— and yes—even time DEPARTMENTS 26 CHUCK FERRAR 02 PUB PAGE OF BAY RIDGE Sweet Relief ... Hope for WINE & SPIRITS: 14 Hangover Sufferers ... Still Making His Voice Heard NAPA’S NEW ERA Cold Beer? Changes in philosophy, farming, and ownership 04 28 WINE COCKTAILS bring a return to freshness at NEW PRODUCTS & ON THE COVER: historic NapaValley wineries PROMOTIONS Josiah Baldivino co-owner of Bay 30 THE FIND Grape in Oakland, California Photographed by Becca Wyant

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SWEET RELIEF research. They crafted their formula to Board of Directors Lee W. Murray include a variety of naturally occurring Thomas W. Murray Just before the end of 2019, Congress herbs and adaptogens such as N-Acetyl Information Technology Peter Williams and President Trump agreed to a number Cysteine, D-Ribose, Siberian Ginseng, Director [email protected] of tax and spending decisions including Prickly Pear, Dihydromyricetin and more. EDITORIAL a one-year extension of the Craft Bever- Recommended use is 3 capsules with Senior Editor Kristen Bieler age Modernization and Tax Reform Act water before the party starts and 3 pills [email protected] — which was set to expire at the end of the next morning. Still in the early stages Managing Editor W. R. Tish [email protected] 2019 after being passed into law in 2017 of roll-out, you can find and buy After- as part of the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act. party Recovery on the Internet at www. Contributing Editors Alia Akkam, Arielle Albert, Keven Danow, Edward Durgin This had been a top priority for industry afterparty.shop. They are in talks aimed at David Lincoln Ross, trade groups including the Beer Institute eventually developing retail distribution. Ed McCarthy, Jack Robertiello (BI) and the Brewers Association (BA), as ART & DESIGN COLD BEER? well as the Distilled Spirits Council of the Creative Director Larry Lee United States, the American Craft Spirits [email protected] If hard seltzer is the hot new kid in Senior Designer Jeff Tsui Association, Wine America, the Wine In- [email protected] stitute, and the U.S. Association of Cider town, the original alcohol beverage, beer, Makers. is definitely facing some icy headwinds. TECHNOLOGY & WEB Domestic beer production will likely hit a eCommerce Director Ian Griffith Those groups had sought to make the [email protected] decade-low before the calendar flips to tax reform passed in 2017 a permanent eCommerce Managers Karli Del Rossi, Evan Berube 2020. Online Web Programming Vali Balescu adjustment, however all seemed pleased with the one-year extension. According to the Beer Institute (BI), PRINT & PRODUCTION U.S. brewers have shipped an estimated Print Services Manager Lee Stringham Without the extension, the Distilled 2.6 million fewer barrels of beer year-to- [email protected] Spirits Council of the United States said 410.519.7034 date (YTD) through October compared to liquor makers would have faced $275 mil- 2018. ADVERTISING & MARKETING lion in higher taxes, while a beer industry MD & DC Advertising Sales Stephen Patten group said it faced $130 million in higher The softer shipments represent a [email protected] 410.796.5455 taxes. One wine group said the bill will 1.8% decline versus last year, when U.S. beer companies combined to sell roughly National Advertising Sales Jody Slone-Spitalnik allow California wineries alone to avoid [email protected] more than $150 million in higher taxes. 142.3 million barrels of beer through the 212.571.3232 first 10 months of 2018. NEW HOPE ... If that rate of decline holds through FOR HANGOVERS? the remainder of the year, more than 11,000 permitted U.S. breweries would More precisely, for those who find POSTMASTER: Send address changes to ship about 163.6 million barrels in 2019. the morning-after blues an unwelcome THE BEVERAGE JOURNAL, INC. n P.O. Box 159, Hampstead, MD 21074-0159 distraction from work and other re- sponsibilities. That’s the idea behind (Thank you Duncan Cameron of Cameron The Maryland Beverage Journal, the Washington, DC Beverage Journal and the Delaware Beverage Journal are registered trademarks of Beverage Journal, Inc. AfterParty Recovery, the latest dietary Communications for compiling and sharing All rights reserved. supplement for hangover defense and the above information.) Periodicals postage paid at Baltimore, MD and additional mailing offices. Subscription rates: MD edition; 1 year $45.00 plus tax, 2 years recovery. It was created by a team with $75.00 plus tax, 3 years $100.00 plus tax, FedEx Ground delivery $85.00 plus STEPHEN PATTEN tax per year per edition, single copies $10.00 plus tax. DC edition; 1 year $36.00 extensive knowledge of holistic nutri- plus tax, 2 years $60.00 plus tax, 3 years $83.00 plus tax, FedEx Ground delivery PUBLISHER tion and previously completed university $85.00 plus tax per year per edition, single copies $5.00 plus tax. [email protected] The opinions expressed by guest columnists are their own and not necessarily those of The Beverage Journal, Inc. The Beverage Journal, Inc. is an affirmative action/equal opportunity corporation. Copyright 2020 the Beverage Journal, Inc. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Not responsible for unsolicited material or advertising claims. 2 BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com BeverageJournalInc.com C

CMY

K NEW PRODUCTS

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. ZOLO CABERNET FRANC RESERVE . BARDSTOWN BOURBON . CAMPO BRAVO TEQUILA Argentine winery Zolo has released a 2017 ‘THE PRISONER’ FINISH Milestone Brands has entered a joint Cabernet Franc Reserve, made under Bardstown Bourbon Company kicked o venture with Grupo PSA of Mexico, bringing winemakers Jean Claude Berrouet (formerly of 2020 with a new bourbon aged in The Campo Bravo, a 100% agave tequila, to the Pétrus) and Fabian Valenzuela. In Zolo’s Alto Prisoner Wine Company barrels. Bardstown Unite States. Campo Bravo, meaning “Brave Agrelo and Agrelo estate vineyards, whose 14- Bourbon’s latest collaboration is a nine-year- Field,” was created by fifth-generation agave and 19-year-old vines’ fruit was previously being old Tennessee bourbon aged for 18 months growers who control production from agave blended with Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, in the same French oak barrels used to age fields to the bottle. Campo Bravo Plata Berrouet saw conditions to achieve perfect the cultish red blend The Prisoner. This is (silver) shows vanilla aromas and on the ripeness in Cabernet Franc, which is crucial for the latest addition to the firm’s Collaborative palate herbal, spice, and citrus notes. The the fruit and tannins to balance the floral and Series, which used brandy and Muscat bottle incorporates modern Mexican design mineral aspects often found in the grape. Mistelle barrels in 2019. 100 proof. with a label featuring a howling wolf.

SRP: $19 SRP: $124.99 SRP: $21.99 vinodelsol.com bardstownbourbon.com milestone-brands.com

. POWERS GOLD LABEL . DON Q SIGNATURE RELEASE, . MIAMI COCKTAIL CO. IRISH WHISKEY SINGLE BARREL RUM ‘ORGANIC SPRITZ’ New for 2020, Powers Gold Label Irish Destilería Serrallés, producer of Don Q Another young hard seltzer is poised to go Whiskey, produced by Irish Distillers of Puerto Rican rum, has released the third national. Miami Cocktail Co. is launching Midleton Distillery, has a bold new bottle. The edition of Don Q’s Signature Release, Single single-serve “Organic Spritz” canned label’s vintage pot still silhouette pays tribute Barrel series. As with the 2005 and 2007, ready-to-drink cocktails, complementing to the distillation method for which this historic the 2009 rum was chosen from a limited their existing “Small Batch Originals” bottled Irish whiskey is renowned, and the highlighted selection of the Serrallés family’s finest cocktails. Di erentiated by its organic red Powers diamond “P” is one of the first rum stocks. Selected in 2009 and aged in certification, low (4.2%) ABV percentage, and trademarks ever registered in Ireland. The charred American oak barrels until being 110 calories per can with no added sugar or updated design will start with Gold Label in bottled straight from the barrel with no preservatives, the lines comes in five pastel March and then extend across the Powers line. blending in 2019, the rum is rich and full- 250ml cans: Organic Bellini, Margarita, bodied. Enjoy neat. 80 proof. Mimosa, Paloma, and Sangria.

SRP: $31.99 SRP: $39.99 SRP: $12.99/four-pack of 8.4oz (250ml) cans powerswhiskey.com donq.com miamicocktail.com

4 BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com

NEW PRODUCTS

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. JAMESON COLD BREW . CELLIER DES DAUPHINS . LAPHROAIG ‘CÀIRDEAS’ Conjuring up notions of Irish Co ee, this new RHÔNE WINES TRIPLE WOOD SINGLE MALT SCOTCH combination of triple-distilled Jameson Irish Cellier des Dauphins, the Rhône Valley’s Laphroaig’s annual release of their Whiskey and natural cold brew co ee flavor is largest grower-owned winery, has new “Càirdeas” single malt Scotch whisky a natural fit, and makes its way stateside after branding plus a portfolio expansion. The is always greatly anticipated. (Càirdeas limited-edition success abroad. Jameson Cold brand now has three tiers: Côtes du Rhône means friendship in Gaelic.) This year’s Brew o ers rich co ee aroma and a mellow wines under the “Reserve” label (SRP $14.95; edition, Triple Wood Cask Strength, was finish, with notes of toasted oak and dark pictured) in red, white and rosé; a Côtes du first matured in ex-bourbon barrels, then in chocolate. Made with 100% Arabica Beans Rhône Villages range ($16.99-$18.99); and at smaller quarter casks, and finally finished from Brazil and Colombia; line-priced with the top, a limited “Crus des Côtes du Rhône” in oak casks that previously held Oloroso original Jameson. Enjoy on ice or in creative range ($20-$60), focusing on the terroirs Sherry, giving the expression a sweet and classic cocktails. 60 proof. of Vinsobres, Cairanne, Vacqueyras, and and smooth finish on top of Laphroaig’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape. signature rich, smoky taste. 119 proof.

SRP: $24.99 SRP: $14.95 / $18.99 / $20-$60 (see above) SRP: $79.99 jamesonwhiskey.com cellier-des-dauphins.com laphroaig.com

. PONGA SAUVIGNON BLANC . KORBEL PROSECCO . DENIZEN VATTED DARK RUM With the 2019 vintage, Winebow Imports Korbel, the American sparkling wine Hotaling & Co. has introduced Denizen is introducing a new label for their Ponga powerhouse, has extended into Italy’s most Vatted Dark Rum; it is dark rum blended Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New popular bubbly. Produced entirely in the with rhum agricole from Martinique, in Zealand. The look is fresher and brighter, Prosecco DOC, Korbel Prosecco uses 100% the “vatted” style originally formulated for with the native Ponga fern featured more Glera grapes and the traditional Charmat the British Navy in the mid-18th century. prominently. Known for the silvery underside of (tank-fermented) method, yielding a light, The fresh, unaged rhum agricole provides its fronds that appear to reflect moonlight, the fruit-forward bubbly. The package features a backbone of vegetal aromas, yielding a fern was named “Ponga” by the Māori people the same block lettering for the Korbel brand balanced spirit ideal for cocktails. The label who tell stories of how the leaves helped guide name, but a red capsule sets it apart from its honors the Guyanese slaves who rose up their way through the dark. méthode champenoise California siblings. against British colonists in 1823, in what is known as the Demerara Rebellion. 100 proof.

SRP: $13 SRP: $14.99 SRP: $29.99 pongawine.com korbel.com hotalingandco.com

6 BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com

VALENTINE’S DAY COCKTAILS

SOUTHSIDE KISS 2 oz Empress 1908 Gin ¾ oz Fresh Lime Juice ¾ oz Simple Syrup Mint Leaves Cherry and Mint leaves (for garnish)

Method: In a mixing glass add all ingredients and shake vigorously. Double strain into a chilled coupe and garnish RUBY FIZZ with a heart-shaped candied ginger piece. 1½ oz Old Forester 86 Proof 2 oz. Club Soda ½ oz Ginger Syrup 2 droppers Old Forester 2 oz Raspberry Lambic Hummingbird Bitters

Method: Old Forester and warm ginger harmonize as a grounding base for this juicy, refreshing raspberry lambic fizz cocktail. The bitters accent with citrus and cardamom. Combine all ingredients in Collins glass filled with ice. Garnish with lemon peel.

SUGAR & SPICE MARGARITA by Nate Fishman, Liquor Lab RED VELVET CAKE 6 three-inch Cinnamon Sticks 1 oz Amarula Cream Liqueur 1 cup Pomegranate Juice ⅔ oz Red Berry Vodka 1 cup Sugar ⅔ oz Beetroot Juice 16 oz Santera Blanco Tequila ⅔ oz White Chocolate Syrup 8 oz Lime ⅓ oz Grenadine 3 oz Water Method: Toast cinnamon sticks over low heat, 3-5 minutes, until Method: “Roll” ingredients (pour aromatic; transfer to a large bowl, stir in pomegranate juice and back and forth between mixing sugar until incorporated. Mix this pomegranate-cinnamon sugar glasses). Fine strain into martini glass. with tequila, lime and water in a pitcher and pour over ice to Garnish with vanilla foam. serve. Garnish with a cinnamon stick. Serves 10-12.

8 BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com Meticulously crafted, artisanally produced and strikingly balanced.

Campari Group welcomes two new members to its award-winning family of premium brands. Ask your Campari contact for more info today.

Authentic Mexican liqueurs steeped in the tradition of Puebla.

Ancho Reyes® Ancho Chile Liqueur. 40% alc/vol. (80 proof). Montelobos® Mezcal. 43.2% alc/vol. (86.4 proof). Imported by Campari America. New York, NY. ©2020. Please drink responsibly. WHEN COUNTING REALLY COUNTS

IMPROVING YOUR PHYSICAL INVENTORY SYSTEM SAVES MONEY, HEADACHES—AND YES—EVEN TIME.

BY CHRISTY FRANK

STOCK TIPS Bay Grape in Oakland, California, takes a full bottle count quarterly. Teams of two cover sections of the store, calling out names and counts to be recorded BAY GRAPE PHOTOGRAPHS BY BECCA WYANT / ANDREA HILLSEY, SQUARE WINE SQUARE DUTCHER BY PHOTOGRAPHY / ANDREA HILLSEY, BECCA BY GRAPE WYANT PHOTOGRAPHS BAY and analyzed. obody opens a wine shop because they love to track ally, this is easiest to do when the shop is inventory. But any successful retailer knows that routinely closed; set aside a chunk of time dedicated taking complete stock of your shop’s largest asset—that’s solely to stock checking. N right, every single bottle—is essential to long-term success. Estimating the amount of time needed Inventory is cash in liquid form, so closely monitoring it is key to follows the same rules as planning for a identifying best- and worst-selling items, reordering efficiently, and renovation, suggests Mitch Ancona, owner spotting possible theft. of Ancona’s Wines in Ridgefield, Connecti- cut: “Estimate the time you need, then Whether your New Year’s resolution All these details will enable an inven- double it. And that still won’t be enough.” was to implement a more formal, regular tory process that’s less painful and more To streamline the process, he hires a third- inventory process, or simply to fine-tune impactful. Not only will you spend less party inventory service to lend helping what you’re already doing, the winter lull time counting, but you’ll avoid double hands. Ancona finds this saves time and is an ideal time to reassess the procedures checking work you have already complet- insures a smoother process, but that fine you use in your operation. ed. With a more efficient process, you’ll tuning is still always necessary after the save hours and also be more inclined to third party team departs. KNOW YOUR STARTING POINT conduct inventory frequently, says Andrea Stevie Stacionis, owner of Bay Grape With so many potential reasons for vari- Hillsey, owner of Square Wine Co. in Madi- in Oakland, California, takes an all hands ances between what’s on paper and what’s son, Wisconsin, who takes a full physical on deck approach to physical inventory, actually in the shop, you want to make inventory every month: “If you take care which is taken quarterly. Stock levels sure that your starting point is correct. As of the small details, the large ones will from the POS system are exported into Jeffrey Wolfe, the owner of Wolfe’s Wine take care of themselves.” Shoppe in Coral Gables, Florida, notes, “Getting the right information into the HOW AND WHEN TO COUNT BOTTLES computer system is paramount, so re- Taking a full physical inventory sounds ceivables need to be dead on.” One mis- simple: Compare the bottles you have in entered delivery can turn into multiple the shop with the bottles you have on pa- miscounts on the next physical inventory. per and look for any discrepancies. It’s just Make certain your process for receiving counting, right? and recording new product is solid. Definitely not right. Accurately inven- Also take some time prior to diving torying multiple items from the same pro- into a physical inventory to make sure ducer or multiple vintages and sizes of the your tracking spreadsheets reflect the lay- same item is anything but simple. Gener- out of your shop. For example, if a given bottle could potentially be located in mul- ABOVE: Erin Scala, of In Vino Veritas in Keswick, Virginia, tiple places (e.g. the stockroom, a shelf, a takes inventory during the slowest day of the week. // display table, the cooler), then add those Mitch Ancona of Ancona’s Wines in Ridgefield, Connecticut, hires a third-party service to streamline the process. // columns to make it easier to track where Andrea Hillsey, of Square Wine Co. in Madison, Wisconsin you have counted. takes a physical inventory once a month. BAY GRAPE PHOTOGRAPHS BY BECCA WYANT / ANDREA HILLSEY, SQUARE WINE SQUARE DUTCHER BY PHOTOGRAPHY / ANDREA HILLSEY, BECCA BY GRAPE WYANT PHOTOGRAPHS BAY INVENTORY MANAGEMENT

Bay Grape (left) is owned and operated by Josiah GETTING BEHIND VARIANCES Baldivino and Stevie Stacionis (above), a husband-and- You’ve counted and re-counted. So now wife team. // At Irving Bottle in Brooklyn, by monitoring low-stock items, Erin Bender (right) reduces the need for what? You need to update your stock lev- a monthly full-store inventory check. els, which depending on your inventory management software may be as simple Inventory spreadsheets as pressing a button or uploading a file. Or should reflect the they are open. During her shop’s slowest it may involve a more manual effort. If so, Sarah O’Kelley at Edmund’s Oast restaurant layout of your shop to day of the week, Erin Scala, who owns In Vino Veritas in Keswick, Virginia, focuses in Charleston recommends working with ensure efficient tracking on individual sections, counting out small “one lucky staff member” to take that last of bottles located in groups of items, adjusting the counts in step of entering all the data into the com- multiple places. the POS system immediately and noting puter while the numbers are still fresh. any losses or overages in emails to her The final step is analyzing those vari- team. By the end of the day, she’s able to ances, understanding the reasons behind run an inventory-on-hand report for the them, and reducing them moving forward. entire shop. Theft is always a possibility; taking regu- an Excel spreadsheet. The staff breaks up lar inventory will help you spot any pat- into teams of two and each pair is given BREAK IT DOWN: CYCLE COUNTING terns and take action. a section of the shop to work on. “It’s a If the phrase “physical inventory” grips Other reasons for the “ones that got regimented process,” she explains. “One you with fear of all-night counting ses- away” often include bottles opened for in- person on the team calls out the wine, the sions, cranky staff, and cold pizza, con- store tastings or staff trainings, breakage, second repeats it. The first person gives sider cycle counting. Rather than tackle comped bottles to customers, or similar bot- the count and the second person repeats it the entire store in one day, break the shop tles that are rung up incorrectly. Minimize and inputs it into the spreadsheet.” into sections to cycle through, counting these variances by developing and training After everything is counted, Stacionis each section every month or quarter, de- staff on procedures for tracking these spe- reviews the variances, assigns recounts pending on your inventory period. cific situations. At my shop in Copake, New (multiple SKUs for a single producer are At Tribeca Wine Merchants in New York, our POS system makes it easy to set often miscounted), and announces the fi- York City, Lauren McPhate conducts a up “customers” such as trainings or break- nal dollar variance as a way to drive home count of wines before the start of an age; we log these bottles as zero-dollar sales the purpose and impact of what the team in-store tasting or prior to sending out in real time and attach a note if needed. has just accomplished. “I’m teaching them an email offer. Ancona will have a stock Lower-tech tools can be as simple as a paper how to run their own shops at some point, check done whenever a new order is re- spreadsheet where staff can keep a running so this is a real learning experience,” notes ceived. At Irving Bottle in Brooklyn, Erin list to be entered weekly or monthly. Stacionis. “I’ll explain why they are here Bender runs a monthly report to iden- Counting bottles and wrangling spread- and why this is important.” Of course, or- tify items with a stock level of three or sheets doesn’t have the same romance value dering in some food and opening a great fewer and then checks that they are still as pulling corks. But having a streamlined bottle of wine makes the effort feel more on hand. These periodic checks help keep and accurate process in place leaves more team-building and less chore-like. stock levels closely in line with what is on time and energy to focus on the wines and Smaller shops may find it possible to paper and reduce the need for full-store spirits you are selling, which is why you are ■ manage a full physical inventory while inventory check. in this business after all.

WINE REGION

NAPA’S NEW ERA CHANGES IN PHILOSOPHY, FARMING, AND OWNERSHIP BRING A RETURN TO FRESHNESS AT HISTORIC NAPA VALLEY WINERIES

BY JIM CLARKE

Inglewood Vineyards

hen Heitz Cellars was pur- Heitz is just one of several iconic Napa RECLAIMING NAPA’S chased in 2018, fans held their properties to change hands of late, raising ‘PRE-MODERN’ ERA collective breath. How would the same questions and anxiety for many Heitz wines are legendary for their unique Gaylon Lawrence, an agricul- wine drinkers. But at Stony Hill and Maya- restraint, elegance and longevity. And the tureW mogul from Arkansas, put his stamp camas, as at Heitz, the new generation of winery’s unusual (for Napa) cellar practic- on the winery which had been owned owners seems to lean towards preserving es—notably avoiding malolactic fermenta- and run by Joe and Alice Heitz since they not revamping these idiosyncratic winer- tion for red wines, limited use of new oak, founded it in 1961? ies. With an eye to an earlier era of wine- aging wines for years before release—will making, these icons are taking a leading remain, assures Carlton McCoy, the es- role in bringing a classic, more balanced tate’s newly appointed president/CEO and style back into prominence. former wine director at The Little Nell in Aspen, Colorado. “I’m a restaurant guy, so I look at winemakers like chefs—they are the heart of the house,” says McCoy, who insisted on retaining Brittany Sherwood as head winemaker. McCoy believes Heitz’s distinctive identity is traced to a much earlier time. “I think to really understand Heitz Cellars, you have to go back many decades and look at the post-prohibition era of winemaking,” says McCoy. “By the 1970s Napa

Carlton McCoy brings years of was already seeing more of the European COURTESY PHOTOGRAPHY OF INGLEWOODINGLEWOOD VINEYARDS ALEXANDER BY HILL PHOTOGRAPHY STONY RUBIN PHOTOGRAPHY restaurant experience to his new role as president of Heitz Cellars. Despite a rollercoaster ride of ownership, practices at Mayacamas have stayed notably consistent in the cellar, and transition to organic is under way in the estate vineyards.

influence; wineries had already started to no new oak, and never veered from this makes Stony Hill tick and what our hill- make that turn into what we now know course, even when it wasn’t fashionable. side does really well, and he wants to as modern.” “We actually never felt any pressure continue this tradition,” she explains. Heitz will narrow its portfolio to focus to change,” says Sarah McCrea, whose Today, with more Chardonnay produc- squarely on Cabernet Sauvignon. Other parents planted their first vines at ers and drinkers embracing a less opu- notable Heitz wines like their unusual Stony Hill in 1948. “Our philosophy lent style, Stony Hill is a growing part Grignolino (a medium-bodied grape from was always, ‘We make the wine we of that conversation. “It’s a wonderful Piedmont the estate has produced for de- love to drink.’” McCrea—who will be feeling to think that what we do is ap- cades) are not being abandoned; they’ll staying on as VP of marketing strat- preciated and seen more in the world,” still be made, but under a different brand. egy—credits Stony Hill’s success to says McCrea. “I think it has definitely their loyal customer base and modest brought more attention to Stony Hill.” CLASSIC STYLE BACK IN FASHION production size; there have always been One of California’s earliest Chardonnay enough people around who appreciate and REFRESHING HISTORY producers, Stony Hill Vineyard was pur- buy their wines. Mayacamas Vineyards & Winery—which chased by Long Meadow Ranch in 2018. Long Meadow Ranch owner Ted Hall dates to 1889—has been through a bit of Stony Hill always aimed for a focused had been a fan of the Stony Hill style for an ownership rollercoaster in since it was style with no malolactic fermentation and over 30 years. “Ted knew exactly what purchased in 2013 by Charles Banks and Jay Schottenstein. Banks is no longer a partner, having sold his stake in the winery after being convicted for fraud. (The money from the sale went to basketball star Tim Duncan, the victim of his fraud, as restitution.) Despite the bumps, Mayacamas has doubled down on its old-school winemaking philosophy. “There’s a lot of old brands in Napa, but not all of them have that con- tinuity of style,” says Braiden Albrecht, winemaker at Mayacamas. “In the cellar we’ve tried to keep the core in place. In our barrel cellar that means a lot of neutral wood, large format foudre, and concrete

INGLEWOOD VINEYARDS PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY PHOTOGRAPHY OF INGLEWOODINGLEWOOD VINEYARDS ALEXANDER BY HILL PHOTOGRAPHY STONY RUBIN PHOTOGRAPHY Stony Hill, known for eschewing both malolactic fermentation and new oak, is finding renewed appreciation for their old-school Chardonnay. WINE REGION

At Inglenook, director of winemaking Philippe Bascaules now has 120 separate fermentation tanks, allowing him to micro-process vineyard parcels.

tanks. We really love those tanks but they Some of Napa’s oldest 2003. General Manager Jean-Baptiste were built in the ’50s, so we needed to re- wineries are leading Rivail credits Maggie Henriquez, presi- surface them and outfit them with glycol the way in rethinking dent of the company’s Estates & Wines so we could utilize them more efficiently, division, with staying true to Peter New- with temperature control.” vineyard practices, ton’s vision to craft cooler-climate wines Inglenook has ridden through highs particularly as climate on Spring Mountain, a higher-elevation, and lows over the decades with numer- change encroaches. wetter district. “We look to the future by ous ownership changes and production defining the winery’s founding values: volumes that ranged from tens of thou- respect of nature, terroir, and a pursuit sands of cases to several million. Francis of a fresh style,” says Rivail. “That’s driv- Ford Coppola purchased the estate in 1975 nook’s terroir-driven approach, by picking en our transition to organics.” and reclaimed the Inglenook brand name earlier and raising yields to slow ripening. Head of viticulture Mayacamas Olds in 2011. After an era of chasing the more One of the few estates in Napa that has helped direct Newton’s $10 million in- COURTESY PHOTOGRAPHY OF INGLEWOODINGLEWOOD VINEYARDS extracted style, director of winemaking can claim over 100 vintages, Inglenook is vestment in their vineyards. “We are in- Philippe Bascaules has restored Ingle- celebrating its 140th anniversary with a troducing regenerative agriculture, using cellar revamp of its own: An installation of cover crops and goats to remove invasive all-new fermentation tanks. “Having 120 plants,” Olds explains. “All things to make tanks helps us increase our knowledge of sure the soil has the most diversity.” the vineyard and each growing area,” says Mayacamas Vineyards and Stony Hill Bascaules, who trained under Paul Pon- Vineyard are in the midst of transitioning tallier at Château Margaux. “We’ll have a to organic farming as well. lot of capacity to vinify and separate the Historic estates are being forced to grapes. All of the tanks will be automated, rethink traditional vineyard practices, too, which will allow us to experiment particularly as climate change encroaches with multiple pump-overs.” on Napa. McCoy says the richer style common around the turn of the millennium EVOLUTION IN THE VINEYARD owes itself to French viticultural con- Changes are underway in the vine- sultants, who focused on opening up the yards, too. Newton was one of the canopies and otherwise getting more sun first family-owned wineries to move and warmth on the vines—tactics that suit into corporate hands when Moët- Bordeaux but not sunny Napa, especially Newton Vineyards GM Jean-Baptiste Rivail is Hennessy purchased the winery in today. Many Napa growers are changing overseeing projects that reflect “respect of nature, terroir, and a pursuit of a fresh style.” find your FLAT TOP

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At Larkmead, Dan Petroski is questioning Cabernet’s supremacy in Napa; a three-acre experimental plot (right) is planted with Chenin Blanc, Aglianico, Tempranillo and Touriga Nacional. their trellising and row direction to mod- “We are going back to Newton’s original more erate and balance ripeness rather than to balanced style in the 1970s and ’80s when the wines simply encourage it. At Larkmead Vineyards, with 125-year were fresh and bright and could last decades.” history of winegrowing, winemaker Dan - Jean-Baptiste Rivail, Newton Vineyards Petroski—at the helm since 2006—has even CLENAHAN

begun to question the sacred assumption c that Cabernet will always be king in Napa. The estate recently planted a three-acre VHS to watch movies. We may not be drink- bright and could last decades,” says Rivail. research block of other grape varieties that ing Cabernet from Napa Valley in 20 years.” To achieve greater precision, Alberto Bian- may represent the future of a warmer Napa chi, who came on as Newton’s winemaker Valley, including Chenin Blanc, Aglianico, LOWERING THE VOLUME in 2016, has begun breaking down picking Tempranillo, and Touriga Nacional. “I don’t Both Larkmead and Newton experimented dates not just for specific blocks, but for necessarily believe that Napa Valley has to with the richer wines that Napa became portions of blocks, so each can be harvested be aligned with Cabernet Sauvignon,” says known for. Yet today, both are changing at optimum freshness. Petroski, who hopes to see more Napa pro- course. “We are going back to Newton’s Petroski has been reducing alcohol ducers exploring other varieties: “We’re not original more balanced style in the 1970s levels at Larkmead, in an effort to fine still using an AOL to get on the internet or and ’80s when the wines were fresh and tune the vineyard’s range and best expression. He says the danger with big wines is a loss of details: “When you play music really loud, it gets distorted, so you lose the nuances.” With the volume dialed back, Napa’s diversity and terroir is coming through more prominently in the glass. “I think there is a reaction to the opulence of the cult era,” says Mayacamas’s Albrecht. “People are looking for a bit more of diversity from Napa. There are really a lot of different microclimates and soil types in the Valley and the beauty of these old estates is that you can really get a sense of place. That’s one of the things during the last 20 years that was maybe getting lost a The terraced Newton estate vineyards on Spring Mountain cover n

little bit—and is now coming back.” MARC OLIVIER BLANC BY / LARKMEAD LE NEWTON BOB M BY PHOTOGRAPHY PETROSKI / DAN PHOTOGRAPHY VINEYARDS JIMMY BY VINEYARDS HAYES 560 acres at elevations ranging from 500 to 1,600 feet above sea level. Their switch to organics includes regenerative agriculture, cover crops, and goats to remove invasive plants. Longevity Wines is a small boutique, family-owned, urban style winery located in Northern California. Winemaker Phil Long keeps a hands on approach in producing all of the wines at Longevity, to insure the high standard this family winery is known for. e Longevity philosophy is that it is not just about the wines, but the experience. e food you had with it, the place you enjoyed it, and the friends you shared the wine with. It’s the passion for the wines, and the family tradition, that keeps Longevity striving to make high quality wines. Enjoy a glass of Longevity tonight and experience just what goes into every bottle.

Phil Long Sr. | Founder & Winemaker | LongevityWines.com Longevity Wines Family-Owned Winery est. 2003 Marketed by Bronco Wine Co. | 855.874.2394 | broncowine.com WHEN FINE WINE MEETS CASUAL DINING

TOP WINE PROS SHARE STRATEGIES FOR QUALITY SERVICE WITHOUT THE FUSS

BY MATT STAMP, MS PHOTOGRAPH STAMP COURTESY OF EMMA K MORRIS / ROSIE CANNONBALL JULIE BY STAMP SOEFFER / JUNE RODIL COURTNEYPHOTOGRAPH BY PERRY AND TEXSOM s America’s wine culture continues to mature, there are more Fineman asserts, citing a lack of attention casual restaurant concepts with strong beverage lists than to glass polishing and other details—de- ever before. Smart, technically correct wine service is no tails that require care, not knowledge. (No A longer the sole dominion of fine dining. But what constitutes one wants a glass smudged with the last proper wine service in a casual spot is different from the rituals conducted patron’s lipstick.) Another common faux in a three-Michelin-star establishment. Translating high-end wine service pas: service temperatures: Too many ca- into a more relaxed environment can have a huge impact on the guest sual restaurants serve all reds at room temperature and all whites at 38°F. Open- experience as well as sales. ing and pouring a sparkling wine safely and proficiently provides a great nonver- When you don’t have an army of som- “Some guests don’t bal statement to a guest—We know what meliers at your disposal, and incoming like the pomp, and in we are doing here; ripping off the cage staff is high on enthusiasm but low on some circumstances, and allowing the cork to point at anyone wine knowledge, how can you elevate in eyeshot, on the other hand, is just going wine service? Importantly, how can you it takes away from the to risk YouTube infamy. If you train your make it professional and warm without experience rather than staff to do basic wine service right, and in- being formal? adding to it.” still a desire to want to do it right because The challenge is to find the balance they care, you’ve elevated your program. between setting an informal, relaxed tone – Rebecca Fineman, Ungrafted, San Francisco while still maintaining professionalism. STAFF EDUCATION To get a better bead on that fine line, I Training staff to perform wine service spoke with several fellow wine profession- is one thing; empowering them to talk als who have found success with casual comfortably and confidently about wine concepts. And I thought a bit about what firm that it’s what they wanted, “even if a is another. June Rodil, MS, a partner in we do at Compline, my own casual wine solid 90 percent of them don’t know why Houston's Goodnight Hospitality which bar and restaurant in Napa, California. I’m doing that!” As a restaurant veteran, recently opened Rosie Cannonball, focuses she knows that printing errors, inventory on helping staff build an educational RITUALS WITH A REASON movement, vintage changes, and honest foundation. “We help our staff find their Certain components of the formal wine mistakes can and do happen. “I do this for voices. We taste every day, and we spend service ritual should remain in place, all of my guests,” she says, “because a few even if they go without notice, says will really know the producers and will be Chris Gaither, proprietor of Ungrafted looking for very specific wines.” In casual OPPOSITE: Author Matt Stamp, at his Napa wine bar in San Francisco along with Rebecca restaurants where numerous servers may Compline, points out that providing guests with benchmarks for reference can increase their trust with Fineman, MS: “Our staff must present be opening wines, this simple confirma- a server. // Amanda Steltz, beverage director at Estela bottles properly, and they have to open tion that the right bottle is at the table and Café Altro Paradiso in New York City, notes that many wine correctly and cleanly.” goes a long way. of the details of proper service may not be noticed by At Estela and Café Altro Paradiso in Other small but crucial elements can diners—but they are still vital. // ABOVE: June Rodil, a partner in Houston’s Goodnight Hospitality group, which New York City, Amanda Smeltz says she really make a restaurant’s service stand most recently opened Rosie Cannonball (left), emphasizes always shows guests the wine label to con- out. “A lot of ‘casual’ places are too casual,” helping staff “find their voices.” PHOTOGRAPH STAMP COURTESY OF EMMA K MORRIS / ROSIE CANNONBALL JULIE BY STAMP SOEFFER / JUNE RODIL COURTNEYPHOTOGRAPH BY PERRY AND TEXSOM ELEVATING WINE SERVICE

At Café Altro Paradiso (left) in New York, Amanda acid over and over again to our staff,” says Smeltz insists on not dumbing-down staff training: “I hate that restaurant people think that servers aren’t Rodil, “so they can be more comfortable important and can’t learn about viticulture and historical describing these sensations to guests.” growing regions and winemaking processes and proper I find that people tend to share more terminology.” // Above: Rebecca Fineman, proprietor of a lot of time talking about viticulture and readily the experience of taste, while smell Ungrafted in San Francisco’s Dogpatch neighborhood. vinification. We have 200 wines on the can be a very personal thing. In other list—if you can understand where you words, telling casual wine drinkers what are in the world, you can start to figure they should smell is a locked gate; de- the rest out!” HOW WE TALK TO GUESTS scribing what a wine might taste like and Smeltz points out that there is no need Wine is a foreign language. Really. It’s full determining whether it aligns with their to that dumb-down your wine training. of metaphor and unusual terms and things preferences is the door. “I hate that restaurant people think that that don’t really mean what they should. Ultimately, we connect best with sim- servers aren’t important and can’t learn At the casual level, though, we are actually ple language that our guests understand. about viticulture and historical growing quite lucky—guests connect to the service Smeltz sums it up: “Be humble, be funny, regions and winemaking processes and staff in a much more personal way. make eye contact, use plainspoken lan- proper terminology,” she says. “I’m always Rodil notes that in casual venues, guage, and don’t flood the guest with too trying to train myself out of a job.” guests are interested in what a server ac- much information.” Providing guests with benchmarks for tually enjoys, whereas interactions in for- reference can increase their trust with mal settings often occur in the third per- MAKING IT WORK a server’s suggestions. At Compline, we son—you describe the experience guests “Before we opened Ungrafted, Rebecca work with a lot of classic wines alongside should expect instead of sharing the expe- and I sat down together,” Chris Gaither lesser-known varieties and regions; if we rience that you love. “At a casual setting, recalls, “and we asked ourselves what an- bring on a new Hungarian Kadarka or you are sort of at the same party,” Rodil noys us and what impresses us when we go California Trousseau, we talk about “life- says. “In formal dining, you have to be in- out. It was pretty easy from there to divide lines,” meaning that we draw comparisons vited to the party. It’s more didactic.” everything into ‘keep’ and ‘throw away’ to common grapes and wines. Complexity is not helpful tableside. piles.” Think about what is really essential At casual restaurants, guest expec- We need to make straightforward, clear when elevating wine service. “Some guests tations for wine service—and servers’ recommendations if we want to commu- don’t like the pomp,” adds Fineman, “and knowledge of wines—tend to be low. Up- nicate successfully and deliver to guests in some circumstances, it takes away from end them! If your guests just want the the wines they really want. Describing the experience rather than adding to it.” wine, serve it professionally; if they want wine structure can often be more helpful Distill what is necessary from the ritu- the recommendation and the story, your than describing wine aroma or using ad- als of formal wine service to ensure profes- staff should have the tools and the confi- jectives, like “funky,” that are too broad to sionalism without pageantry, connect with be meaningful. “We describe tannins and ■ dence to have that dialogue. guests, and keep your staff engaged. COURTESY OF UNGRAFTEDFINEMAN / REBECCA SULLIVAN DAVID BY BAR PHOTGRAPH PARADISO CAFE ALTRO

BAR TALK

RUM CENTRAL KENNETH McCOY, THE RUM HOUSE, NEW YORK CITY

BY ALIA AKKAM

enneth McCoy is the proprietor KM: It’s a public house, and that’s a bar of The Rum House, going strong for everyone. I think we fed off what in New York’s Times Square since we did at Ward III. We opened Ward III 2011, as well as Ward III in Tribeca. as a response to the snobbery of bars at K that time—fancy cocktail bars where the staff ignored you, or made you feel stu- BEVERAGE MEDIA GROUP: The Rum pid about ordering something because House has been open for almost a decade. it wasn’t deemed cool. A great bar has a In a city where bars come and go, why do model sitting next to a businessman, sit- you think this one has endured? ting next to a construction worker, sitting How long he’s been behind the bar: My next to a famous actor. That’s what my entire life. My father owned quite a few bars KENNETH McCOY: Times Square needed dad’s bars were like. when I was a kid and he would always take a great cocktail bar and that’s what we me to work with him. My earliest childhood set out to do, and we did it—and that’s BMG: What are some of the biggest les- memories are of bars. why it’s still thriving. It’s still the best sons you’ve learned in hospitality during place to go to in Times Square and the Rum House journey? Favorite spirit: A toss-up between rum and always will be because there’s nothing whiskey. like it. It feels like old New York and a KM: You cannot do this alone. It is a team diamond in the rough, a throwback to effort and it’s like a baby that needs nur- Favorite cocktail: A well-made Manhattan another time. turing every day. You gotta love this busi- is hard to beat. ness to succeed; you gotta want to do this BMG: When the Rum House first opened, day in, day out. It’s a wonderful feeling to If he wasn’t working in hospitality, he it was more low-key than other bars of make a person smile. Don’t we all want would be: An actor. The bar world was Plan the era. Do you think that was part of the that in a way? I feel like the luckiest per- B, but obviously I couldn’t escape it. appeal? son in the world. ■

• MR. PINK ¼ oz Campari ¼ oz Pineapple Juice This is a variation on the Jungle Bird, ¼ oz Simple Syrup a Tiki drink distinguished by its use 1 oz Egg White of Campari. For this version at The 1 Edible Flower Rum House, Kenneth McCoy adds egg white. Method: Combine all liquid ingredients and dry shake. Add three Ingredients: Kold-Draft ice cubes and shake again. 2 oz Banks 5 Rum Strain into chilled coupe glass and ½ oz Lime Juice garnish with edible flower. PHOTOGRAPH BY SHANNON BY STURGISPHOTOGRAPH Turning inventory. And heads. That’s Proof.

Proof TM BY SOUTHERN GLAZER’S

Visit about.sgproof.com to find out more CHUCK FERRAR OF BAY RIDGE WINE & SPIRITS: STILL MAKING HIS VOICE HEARD

BY TEDDY DURGIN

huck Ferrar, proprietor of Bay Ridge Wine & Spirits in Annapolis, turned 77 this past year. And while he says things like, "I still love the interaction with customers, but I'm fading out," there's no doubt his light is going to continue shining in Maryland's beverage business for some time C to come. "I'm retiring," he said in a recent inter- view with the Beverage Journal, "and my son-in-law David [Marberger] is going to run the store every day as he has for the last couple of years. I also have a grandson in college who wants to come in, too. So, we're anticipating three generations." Then, he added, "because David runs the store now, I can afford to be active in the various associations and spend time with the Legislature when it opens up. Many people hate it, but I thoroughly enjoy it!" The associations he speaks of are the Maryland State Licensed Beverage As- sociation (MSLBA), American Beverage Licensees (ABL), and the Anne Arundel County Licensed Beverage Association. Ferrar currently serves on the boards of all three and is a past president of both MSLBA and ABL. He has especially fond memories of his two-year term as MSLBA's head. He is most proud of "expanding the membership, opening up a dialogue with the In- dian groups, and bringing in many Asian- American members. They are probably the majority component now." So, what has compelled him to be active on the political side of the business all these years? "Our business is depen- dent on regulations and politics," he re- The three generations of Bay Ridge Wine & Spirits in Annpolis: Chuck Ferrar; his grandson, plied. "We're one of the few independent James Marberger; and his son-in-law, David Marberger.

26 BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com family-owned small business industries the good fight on the state and local spent a lot of time and energy having our left in this state. To protect ourselves and levels. Looking ahead to 2020, he said people trained on all of our products." the future business for my son and grand- he wouldn't be surprised if national en- But as much as he plans to continue son, I had to get involved. In fact, more croachment once again became an issue. fighting the good fight, Ferrar also hopes people like me should get involved. It's "I look for pressure for beer and wine in to take it a bit easier in 2020. "To enjoy their lifeline." the grocery stores," he stated. "That's life more, that's my personal New Year's Born and raised in Prince George's going to be a fight at some point, and resolution," he said. "I'm just going to County, Ferrar was working for Houston- it would be devastating to our industry. take advantage of what I have, enjoy it … based Sysco in 1989 when he had a heart Every place where there is a supermarket and let my son-in-law do all of the really attack. He decided to come home to or grocery store, there's an independent hard work!" n Maryland and open up a small business. liquor store next door to it or in the same According to Ferrar, Bay Ridge was a store center. They would be devastated. The that was "going downhill" at the time, so Liquor Boards aren't going to be giving he bought it with financing from an aunt. two licenses side by side in the same "It was a very tiny store back then," he center. And the shopping center owners? recalled. "But it was the right place at the Who are they going to side with? The right time, and we've been lucky to grow. 80,000-square-foot supermarket or the We're a large store now and well-known." 3,000-square-foot liquor store? They're Over the past 30 years, he has seen going to side with that Giant or Safeway." numerous changes in the business. The He added that store operators should biggest, in his opinion, has been the re- continue doing a good job showing leg- lationship between the distributors and islators and customers why it's better to the retailers. "When I went into business, shop for beer, wine, and spirits at that most of my distributors were Maryland- their neighborhood packaged goods owned. companies," he said. "Now all of store and not some big chain. "You have the big distributors are nationally owned to have an educated staff," he declared. companies … and they just don't have "We have sommeliers working in our the same level of care about what goes wine department. We also have trained on in Maryland as much as they do the personnel in our beer department. We big picture. The big picture used to be have people specially selling spirits. Most Maryland." places just put the spirits on a shelf, slap That leaves guys like Ferrar to fight prices on them, and walk away. We've

MSLBA New Logos 050703.qxd 5/10/2003 7:50 AM Page 1

Is Your Establishment a Member of the Maryland State Licensed Beverage Association (MSLBA)?

Is Your Establishment a Member of the MSLBAMessage—Representing from Chuck Alcohol Ferrar, Beverage MSLBA Licensees Past President: since 1950 Maryland State Licensed Beverage Association (MSLBA)? One"We're of oneMany of theAchievements few independent - " MSLBAfamily-owned has keptsmall the business playing industries field even left "in forthis state.independent To protect alcohol ourselves beverage and theretailers future by business repeatedly for defeatingmy son and chain grandson, store legislation I had to get

MSLBA—Representinginvolved. In fact, Alcohol more people Beverage like me should Licensees get involved. since It's1950 their lifeline." MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No

matter how proficient you are at the operations and management of your business, many factors influencing MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No matter your success are outside your direct control. Your best chance for competently and successfully dealing with how proficient youexternal are at forcesthe operations such as legislation,and management regulation, of your suppliers, business, enforcement many factors agencies influencing and prohibition your success efforts, is by are outside your joiningdirect control.with other Your retailers best for chance reputable for competentlyrepresentation and through successfully MSLBA. dealing with external forces such as legislation , regulation, suppliers, enforcement agencies and prohibition efforts, is by joining with other retailers for reputable representationContact through MSLBA. MSLBA for Membership Information:

Phone:Contact (410) MSLBA 871-1377 for• FAX: Membership (410) 871-2545 Information: • E-Mail: [email protected]

Phone: (410)Please 871 provide-1377 the • following: FAX: (410) 871-2545 • E-Mail: [email protected]

Please provide theName following: of County or City Alcohol Licensing Board for Your Establishment: ______

Name of County Youror City Name: Alcohol ______Licensing Board for Your Establishment:______Phone: ______( ) ______

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Business Name: Business ______Physical Address: ______

Business Physical Address: ______

WINE COCKTAILS COOPER & THIEF PHOTOGRAPHY BY ELLIOTT CLARK COOPER & THIEF PHOTOGRAPHY BY

COOPER & THIEF RED BLEND SWIZZLE by Elliott Clark 1 oz Cooper & Thief Red Blend ¾ oz Cinnamon Syrup* Aged in Ex-Bourbon Barrels ¾ oz Lemon Juice 1½ oz Pisco 3-4 dashes Angostura Bitters

Method: Combine all ingredients into a cocktail shaker and shake to chill. Strain into a snifter over crushed ice, and garnish with freshly grated cinnamon, mint, and an orange peel.

STRAWBERRY ROSE SPARKLER *For the cinnamon syrup: Combine 1 cup of sugar in 1 cup of water 1 oz. Smirno Zero Sugar Infusions Strawberry & Rose and a handful of broken up cinnamon sticks in a medium sauce 4 oz. Sparkling Rosé Wine on low to medium heat. Bring to a light simmer and gently stir to Frozen Strawberries (for garnish) dissolve the sugar. Remove from heat and let the syrup cool. Strain the cinnamon sticks and store in a glass jar in the refrigerator. Method: Add a frozen strawberry to the bottom of a Champagne flute. Top with Smirno Infusions Strawberry & Rose. Pour in the sparkling wine.

RUFFINO RUBY SQUEEZE 2 oz Ru ino Prosecco 1½ oz Fresh Grapefruit Juice CATALINA WINE MIXER 1 oz Campari by Anthony Bohlinger ¾ oz Honey Syrup (2:1 honey to water) 2 oz Sailor Jerry Spiced Rum Grapefruit slice 2 oz Red Wine ½ oz Fresh Lemon Juice Method: Build the cocktail in a highball glass Top with Lemon-Lime Soda with ice. Garnish with a grapefruit slice. Garnish: Lemon wedge

Method: Build Sailor Jerry, wine and juice in a rocks- filled mixing glass. Shake vigorously. Pour into a wine glass. Top with soda and garnish with a lemon wedge.

28 BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com Does your cooler need a Does your cooler Face Lift? suffer from: Х Bad shelving? Х Leaky doors? Х Foggy glass? Х Lighting on the fritz?

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Vespertino’s flavor profile VESPERTINO: CRÈME DE LA CREMA? leans more toward SAMUEL ADAMS EMBRACES WINTER ‘COLD SNAP’ Not all agave-based spirits pack a punch. creamy caramel Seasonal beers are one way big brewers get crafty. Ready for the Vespertino, a 30-proof “tequila crema,” takes than toward “bittuh” cold of winter, Boston-based Samuel aim at agave lovers’ sweet tooth, melding silver tequila. Adams has refreshed the recipe for their Cold tequila with dairy cream, brown Snap. The white ale’s new blend of 10 spices, fruits sugar and spices (vanilla, cinnamon, chocolate). It all and florals includes orange zest, vanilla, lemon began in the Portland, Maine kitchen of Stroudwater zest, coriander, rose hips, hibiscus, plum, grains Distillery CEO Je Johnson in 2017, who had of paradise, anise, and tamarind. The Samuel Mexican churros and fried ice cream in mind. Adams brewers say they adjusted the ratio of Vespertino’s footprint is now up to 21 states, Cold Snap’s spices specifically to amplify the and they have added a 50ml size. While growth orange and vanilla profiles while making the brew has been mostly o -premise, the silky liqueur “brighter and smoother.” The reformulation of Cold has inspired cocktails ranging from revised Snap follows a similar revisiting of Samuel Adams classics to shooters and hot drinks. It also has Summer Ale earlier this year. samueladams.com found fans among chefs as its real cream base makes it an ideal upgrade for any cooked or baked dish that calls for milk or cream. SRP $21.99. drinkvespertino.com

MO’ BOTANICALS, MO’ BETTER FOR MONKEY Monkey 47 Gin, famously made from 47 botanicals in Germany’s Black Forest, is now letting Americans in on their special-edition Distiller’s Cut—featuring a 48th ingredient—which was previously released only A SHINY NEW APPLE FOR After eight years as the United States Association of Cider Makers, the in Europe. This year’s 48th cider industry trade group has updated its brand to The American botanical is Myristicae arillus, Cider Association. Along with the new look and name, the assoction which is the seed covering promises aggressive strategies and goals. “We’re speaking up for of nutmeg. Its impact on the common sense labeling regulations, lobbying for legislation to lower overall gin may be subtle, excise taxes, campaigning for the permitted use of harvest dates on but it certainly packs appeal cider labels over 7% ABV, pushing for 355ml as an approved volume for fans of the cultish gin. of fill, supporting transparency on labels regarding state of origin SRP $80/375ml. monkey47. for apples, and more,” said executive director Michelle McGrath. com ciderassociation.org

30 BEVERAGE JOURNAL www.BeverageJournalInc.com NOW IN 375ML ALUMINUM BOTTLES (COMING FEBRUARY 2020)

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©2020 TWE Imports, Napa, CA The meeting also served as preparation for MSLBA HOLDS ANNUAL MEMBERSHIP MSLBA members to talk with their legislators MARKET MEETING ON FIRST DAY OF MARYLAND'S in the Maryland General Assembly (MGA) later MSLBA New Logos 050703.qxd 5/10/2003 7:50 AM Page 1 2020 LEGISLATIVE SESSION SHOTS in the day during a reception that MSLBA was hosting along with the Maryland Beer Wholesalers Bars, clubs, restaurants and package stores Association and the Licensed Beverage throughout Maryland - members of Maryland Distributors of Maryland. MSLBA lobbyist Steve State Licensed Beverage Association (MSLBA) - Wise briefed MSLBA members on currently held their annual members' meeting on January 8, proposed and expected alcohol related legislation 2020 at the Governor Calvert House in Annapolis. in the 2020 MGA session. Steve also reviewed the MSLBA President Darren Barnes, proprietor of many leadership changes that have occurred in House of Liquors in Westminster, was at the helm the Maryland House of Delegates and the Senate for the majority of the meeting but finished by since the end of the 2019 session - emphasizing handing the gavel over to the newly elected the importance for MSLBA members to talk to president Aashish Parikh of Cranberry Liquors legislators about their concerns for their business, in Carroll County. Darren served two years as their employees and their community. Each president of MSLBA and vowed to assist Aashish year there are hundreds of important legislative in continuing the association's efforts to advocate proposals that affect the livelihood of local alcohol for local beer, wine and spirits retailers. beverage retailers. For additional information retailers can contact MSLBA at 410-871-1377 or mslbamembers@msn. com.

John Bodnovich, Executive Director of MSLBA's national affiliate - American Beverage Licensees (ABL), administers the oath of office to the newly elected MSLBA officers. L to R: MSLBA Recording Secretary, Kevin Storm of Frederick Wine House; Vice President, Mike Scheuerman of Friendship Wine & Liquors in Harford County; President, Aashish Parikh of Cranberry Liquors in Carroll County; Treasurer, Marshele Burgess of Rip's Country Inn in Prince George's County; Financial Secretary, Pete Samios of Carroll County, and John Bodnovich of ABL.

Newly elected MSLBA President Aashish Parikh accepts the gavel Jane Springer, MSLBA Executive Director speaks to members at the from MSLBA Past President Darren Barnes. annual Members Meeting and Officers' Installation.

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MEMBERS OF MARYLAND'S BEVERAGE ALCOHOL INDUSTRY HOLD RECEPTION ON FIRST DAY OF MARYLAND'S 2020 LEGISLATIVE SESSION

34 BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com

MARKET SHOTS

MEMBERS OF MARYLAND'S BEVERAGE ALCOHOL INDUSTRY HOLD RECEPTION ON FIRST DAY OF MARYLAND'S 2020 LEGISLATIVE SESSION

36 BEVERAGE JOURNAL February 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com