A Sense of the Scents

Information about the World of Fragrances

A Sense of the Scents...

Haarmann & Reimer GmbH

P.O. Box 1253 D-37601 Holzminden Germany

Tel. ++49 55 31/90-0 Fax ++49 55 31/90 16 49 www.haarmann-reimer.com AA SenseSense ofof thethe ScentsScents......

Information about the World of Fragrances History

It was with this first nose that the prehistoric quadrupeds were able TheThe to sniff vital information about enemies and mates, sources of History of nutrition and territorial borders. History of When the first human-like beings set out to conquer the world on two legs, though, they lost PerfumePerfume...... their “olfactory contact” with the ground – their eyes and ears provided them with faster and Of the five senses, the sense A rudimentary kind of olfactory more effective information about of smell is undoubtedly the system played a crucial role in the friends, foes and prey. Yet right one of which we are least development of life: Water served down to this very day, our noses aware – why? Fragrances are a as the medium that transported tell us much more than we realize: difficult subject to talk about – information to the first living – if we equate enemy with a war- so descriptive terms have to be organisms, which they assimilated ning odor, mating with eroticism borrowed from other sectors, with the aid of a mechanism that and prey with nutrition… such as “green” from the world can be termed a “sense of smell” of color or “fruity” from the in the broadest sense of the world. The Egyptians already field of taste. And yet frag- The life forms that later developed knew about perfume rances have the magical ability on land were forced to adapt: to enchant. In this brochure, It was now the air they breathed, Through their pictures and writings, we’d like to explain why and not water, that supplied the annals of ancient cultures that is. them with vital informa- suggest that fragrant substances tion. So it was necessary from nature enjoyed a firm place to find a filtration in the daily lives of the Etruscans, system, i.e. an actual Sumerians, Egyptians, Greeks, olfactory organ. Romans and Chinese. Fragrance as a sacrificial offering to the gods – Frankincense, myrrh and blossoms like jasmin were initially the exclusive domain of the high priests. It was thought that it was possible to communicate with

Vessels for storing fragrant oils and ointments from Egypt…

The History The Sense Raw of Perfume of Smell Materials and Processing

Contents

2– 5 6–7 8–11 the gods through the rising smoke produced by burning fragrant substances. Incense is still ceremoniously burned today in the Catholic Church, and this ritual presumably has the same roots. Per fumum – the Latin idiom meaning …the Roman through smoke – is therefore In the summer, the beautiful Empire… the origin of the modern word ladies perfume their busts with Perfume. In the Old Testament, the oil of sandalwood, Exodus 30 contains a reference their hair with jasmin water, to a perfume recipe, in this case their bodies with rose water, an anointing oil. to prepare themselves for love.

Yet it was the desire for beauty In Europe, the culture of fragran- and care that brought fragrant ces first began to spread during …and Greece. resins and blossoms into daily life. the twelfth century. Amulets A Roman fresco, for example, in the shape of a small apple, depicts a young maiden filling with gaps that could be perfume into a little bottle. On an individually opened and Egyptian wall panel from a grave filled, were in common in Thebes, it is possible to distin- use. Since the custo- guish a lady smelling a perfume. mary fragrant waxes On her head, she wears a typical were called “ambre”, perfume cone, which is slowly these often highly melted by the body’s heat. artistic items of jewelry were called fragrance An Indian poem by Kalidasa con- apples – pommes tains the following description: d’ambre – pomander.

The Creative Fragrance Perfume Oils Cosmetic Quality Product Work of the Families for a Wide Ingredients Assurance Safety Perfumer Range of Applications

12–13 14–17 18–21 22–25 26–29 30–31 History

Also popular were potpourris that plant cultivation and leather- were made from blossoms, fruits making. Brought to the French and spices to mask bad odors in court by Catherine de Medici in the home. Even utilitarian items the 16th century, perfume remai- were perfumed – like the leather ned a royal fashion and was used gloves that fine ladies could hold all the more extravagantly. It was under their sensitive noses when believed that water had the power they had to cross the litter-strewn to extract the life force from the roads. body, and hygiene was exchanged for fragrance – the very first deo- The “Water” from Cologne dorant. The situation was different – a classic is born in England under Oliver Cromwell – “Perfume is the work of the In France, the profession of per- 4711 – genuine devil”, it was said, and was ban- fumer & glove-maker emerged, “Kölnisch Wasser”. ned and even prohibited for an whose center quickly became the One of the first entire century. The seventeenth branded perfumes, city of Grasse in the south of the which is still im- century brought with it “Eau de country – the capital of fragrant portant today. Cologne” – “Cologne Water” – whose “recipe” had been brought to Germany by a young Italian named Farina. This refreshing blend of citrus oils, rosemary and alcohol went on to spread throughout Europe – however not just as a fragrance, but also as a cure-all for both external and internal use. It would be left to Napoleon to finally clear up the situation – under his reign, a legal distinction was made between the professions of a “Perfumer” and an “Pharmacist.”

04 H&R Scents In those days, fragrance compositions consisted solely of natural ingredients, of resins, leaves, peels and blossoms that were treated in a variety of ways to capture their fragrant principles. One well-known technique was to place plant parts in alcohol to produce so-called tinctures or infusions. If blossoms were placed Royal letters patent for a in animal fat to produce perfumed method of pro- pomades, the process was called ducing coumarin “enfleurage.” (Karl Reimer, 1876). Synthesis brought variety

In the mid nineteenth century, Reimer founded the company modern perfumery evolved with of the same name. Further im- the advent of modern chemistry. portant molecules were coumarin Innovative techniques of extraction (woodruff) and ionone (violet). and distillation supplied highly In one fell swoop, the perfumer’s fragrant plant extracts – it was palette became incomparably even possible to isolate specific richer – and for the first time fragrance molecules from botani- perfumers were not only able cal isolates – and – even more to blend fragrances from nature, exciting – it was possible to repli- but also to replicate them, to cate fragrance molecules in the interpret them, to impressionis- laboratory – to synthesize them. tically translate them. One of the first molecules of kind was vanillin – in 1874, the principle of vanillin synthesis was patented, and chemists Haarmann and

H&R Scents 05 Smell

TheThe SenseSense ofof SmellSmell......

For a long time, science paid What do we know about Contained on these cilia are diffe- only little attention to this it today? rently shaped receptors. When the most mystical and emotional air we inhale carries a molecule to of our senses. In Greek philo- First of all, it is only possible to the nasal mucous membrane, the sophy, the sense of smell was smell what reaches the nose molecule attaches to a matching disqualified as being imprecise together with the air we breath – receptor, like a peg in a hole. Both and emotional. Only in recent i.e. the substances have to be an its geometric shape as well as its decades has this sense been a gaseous state. When we smell electrical charge, its polarity, play more thoroughly researched. a fragrance strip, for example, we a role in this connection. When a do not smell what is on it but what molecule “docks” with a matching is no longer on it, i.e. what has receptor, an electrical signal – evaporated and can be inhaled. a stimulus – is sent to the brain.

Located in the nose are two ol- We smell with our brain factory mucous membranes, each approximately four Extending from the multitude of square centimeters in nerve cells in the olfactory mucous size, which are membrane are numerous appenda- densely packed ges – processes – that are bundled with nerve in the upper nasal cavity in the cells. Exten- form of nerve fibers. These nerve ding from fiber bundles extend through the these cells ethmoid plate, a bone behind the are nume- root of the nose, and into a part 5 rous plunge of the brain that is called the ol- processes, factory bulb. If subjected to strong 4 3 2 6 which pro- shear forces such as those caused trude into by a heavy blow, for example, this 1 the nasal bone can slice through the bundle 7 * * * cavity like of nerve fibers like a knife – resul- ** tiny little ting in a loss of the sense of smell. hairs. In the olfactory bulb, each of these * * hundreds of nerve fibers, which * serve as a continuation of the nerve * * cells with their olfactory * * cilia, terminates in an * olfactory brain cell. * * Following pre- * selection here, the stimuli are then advanced * to portions of the midbrain and to the so-called olfactory The olfactory system with its primary and secondary paths to other regions of the brain: 1. Olfactory nerve cells in the nose, 2. Spoon-shaped olfactory bulb, 3. Olfactory tract, brain.The olfactory brain was one 4. Olfactory trigone, 5. Stalk leading to the thalamus, 6. Hypothalamic region, 7. Amygdala. of the earliest portions of the

06 H&R Scents Only his enor- mous olfactory memory enables this perfumer to translate a fuzzy sensory perception into a concrete fragrance.

cerebrum to develop, which in delightfully floral or fruity! A flo- Aromatherapy utilizes the emo- turn is linked with the limbic ral fragrance would have to be tional side of our sense of smell system, the system that controls diluted to 2 to 5% to equal the and employs essential oils to pro- our feelings and emotions. strength of its natural counterpart. duce a calming effect, e.g. through vanilla extract, or to stimulate the Interestingly enough, nerve The sense of smell addresses both mind, e.g. with citrus oils. Scents impulses do not travel in only one our emotions and our intellect. can also be used as a source of direction – this area also contains A scent’s stimuli are advanced to subconscious manipulation. nerve cells that work in the oppo- the right half of the brain, where In Japan, for example, it is not site direction. This means that there it is recognized, while intellectual infrequent for essential oils to be are a variety of ways in which a activity or the ability to associate distributed through the air con- kind of feedback can modulate a name occurs in the left half. ditioning system in order to relax and modify the way a scent is per- This explains the phenomenon of employees during ceived. Consequently, the expec- being able to precisely identify their breaks. tations of the person who is smel- a scent but not its name. ling can exert a strong influence on the way a scent is experienced – yellow is associated with freshness, red with fruity sweetness. If this expectation is not fulfilled, the scent is frequently rejected, even though it is not really unpleasant. So a product’s olfactory acceptance is also highly dependent upon the right kind of packaging!

The intensity of a scent, too, can influence its acceptance. This is because not every stimulus that is triggered by a molecule actually reaches the brain. The number of molecules that are necessary for this to happen (which is termed the olfactory threshold) depends upon the fragrance material in question. In highly concentrated form, fragrance materials are often perceived as pungent. In this case, the nose would appear to be over- stimulated – molecules are also deposited on the “wrong” recep- A mole- tors, thus triggering olfactory con- cule serves as the origin fusion, a “blurry” smell. In diluted of a fragrance form, on the other hand, they seem impression.

H&R Scents 07 Raw Materials and Processing

RawRaw MaterialsMaterials andand ProcessingProcessing......

Essential oils Absolues

Steam distillation is employed A two-step extraction process to obtain these substances from is employed to obtain these sub- fragrant plants. Heating dissolves stances from fragrant plants. the plant’s fragrant oil from its In the first step, a solvent is used cells and carries it along with the to dissolve the fragrant oil from steam. During the subsequent the plant. What is left after the cooling process, the water and solvent has been separated is the The palette of ingredients that is available oil become liquid again and sepa- concrete, which is often waxy to perfumers for use in their compositions is rate, as they cannot mix with one and highly colored, since – as differentiated into three different product another. There is one exception: opposed to distillation – the pig- groups. The first two are of natural origin, Citrus oils are not obtained through ments and plant waxes are also essential oils and absolues, while the third distillation, they are squeezed out dissolved during the extraction consists of synthesized aroma chemicals. of the peel (expression). process. To remove them, the

Steam distillation Coolin water outlet

Insulation Cooling water inlet

Oil outlet

Water and plant material Heating jacket steam inlet Automatic return of Direct steam Distillation waters heating

Steam Trap Drain

08 H&R Scents concrete is washed with alcohol; what remains after this alcohol has been removed is a liquid product that now has less color and is called an absolue.

Essential oils and absolues are complex mixtures of a wide variety of molecules that are produced by the plant’s metabolism. Chemi- cal processes can also be employed to create these molecules, producing what are called aroma chemicals. Aroma chemicals

Aroma chemicals are often replicas of molecules that occur in nature. If they have the same chemical structure as the molecules produced by the plant’s metabolism, these aroma chemicals are termed nature-identical. If the molecules have not yet Southern France: The center of la- been found in nature, they are Overview of various perfume raw materials – Yield, price, plant part vender cultivation. called synthetic.

Product Yield from World market Extracted Modern fragrance compositions 1 ton of raw price per kg Plant part are typically blends of these three product, in kg in Euro* product groups, because this is Rose oil 0,2–0,5 5.000 Petals the only way to achieve the desired Jasmin concrete 2,0 3.000–5.000 Petals standards of quality and keep Iris root butter 0,1 9.000 Roots within the price that has been Tuberose absolue enfleurage 0,3 20.000 Blossoms stipulated for the perfume oil. Sandalwood oil 40–65 450 Wood Orange blossom absolue 1,5 5.000 Blossoms Natural raw materials – essential Ylang-ylang oil 15–25 100 Blossoms oils and absolues – are very expen- Patchouli oil 30 20–60 Herb sive, as a great deal of manual Ginger oil 40–44 75 Roots labor is involved in obtaining them. Cedar oil 30–35 20 Wood Weather conditions can cause the quality of the products to fluctuate * Prices are approximate and can fluctuate on the basis of grade and market situation. from year to year; in addition, available quantities are limited by

H&R Scents 09 Raw Materials and Processing

Processing lavender.

Extraction 9

14 14

1 15 2 15 3 15 4

16 16

11 15 10 6 5 1.– 4. Extractors, 5. Evaporator – for the removal of most of the solvent, 7 6. Vacuum distillation equipment for 12 the removal of the last traces of solvent, 7. Distillate reciever (solvent), 8. Solvent pump, 9. Condenser for 17 solvent vapours, 10. Settling tank for solvent, 11. Settling tank for extracts 8 prior to solvent removal, 12. To and 13 from tanks, 13. To solvent rectification, 14. Overflow for solvent vapours from the extractors, 15. Solvent flow to extractors, 16. Extract flow from yellow: concrète, violet: solvent, red: material to be extracted, blue: water extractors to the evaporators, 17. Outlet for Solvent – free extracts (concrète).

the potential area available for Synthetic aroma chemicals, To simplify their work, perfumers cultivation. In fact, only 2% of finally, offer perfumers an addi- also employ so-called bases. all raw materials and ingredients tional source of ingredients for These are fragrance compositions that are employed today consist their creative work and enrich fra- that can be added to a creation in of natural products. grance compositions by providing the form of ready-made fragrance unknown sensory impressions. modules. Originally developed to Nature-identical aroma chemicals They enable unusual and highly imitate the scents of plants from can often be produced at very low esthetic creations to be developed; which no extracts can be obtained, cost, in unlimited quantity and in combinations of pure natural like lily of the valley, lilac or fruits, uniform quality. Moreover, they substances would undoubtedly bases are also employed today do not contain any environmental be too one-sided for today’s as a substitute for costly natural impurities, i.e. they are “cleaner.” “consumer noses.” products.

10 H&R Scents Modern fragrance compositions usually contain both natural and synthetic raw materials and ingredients.

In addition, fantasy bases can lend a unique, special nuance to a composition.

One special sub-group of bases consists of Vitessences. These are natural and near-natural bases that are made possible by a special analytical method, headspace technology. Under this method, the fragrant oils are very gently removed from the plant and then analyzed. The perfumer can use the results to develop especially attractive fragrance modules, Vitessences.

In the headspace technology version shown here, fragrance oils are very carefully removed from the plant for analysis.

H&R Scents 11 The Perfumer

distinguish between the scent of a rose and a lily of the valley, they TheThe CreativeCreative possess virtually none of the skills that characterize “professional sniffers.” Perfumers are able to compose their own creations from WorkWork ofof thethe some 2,000 available fragrance ingredients. They are able to draw upon their memory to theoreti- PerfumerPerfumer...... cally compose a perfume from the ingredients and “smell” the fundamental fragrance impression Perfumers are members of a experience on a sensual plane. in their mind before ever reaching very special guild in which A perfumer does not have to be for the first ingredient to begin professional knowledge, rou- able to play a musical instrument, compounding the actual compo- tine and craftsmanship are write poetry or paint, for exam- sition. After being written down every bit as important as intu- ple. Important traits, though, do on a sheet of paper, or on a com- ition and creativity. In spite of include a curiosity about beauty, puter today, the resulting formula a five-year training curriculum, harmony, sounds, pictures, nature is then physically compounded. there is no official professional and – above all – people. Perfum- profile for a perfumer. He – or ers “compose” their creations, Over the course of numerous increasingly she – has usually they take tiny bottles of ingredi- attempts, a process that can last already completed an educa- ents from a set of shelves that is for days, weeks or even months, tion. He or she may formerly termed a “fragrance organ.” the perfumer refines this compo- have been a chemist, labora- In describing perfumes, in fact, sition until it reflects his or her tory technician, pharmacist or they speak of “accords.” ideal. This ideal is usually dictated simply someone from a truly by the customer’s instructions – unrelated profession who has What does autumn smell summarized in a so-called briefing found his or her way to the like in Tuscany? – that precede the work of the world of fragrance by chance. perfumer. These instructions are Although many people are able often very narrowly defined: Those who become perfumers to recognize their favorite per- The price of the perfume oil, its often first came into contact with fume or subsequent flacon, advertising this profession through their immediate surroundings: In their own family, as an employee of a perfume shop, a fragrance or cosmetics house. In addition to the training courses that are conducted in these companies to assure a supply of new blood, there are also independent schools of perfumery in France and the United States, for example.

Although prior intellectual and professional training are desirable, what counts first and foremost in this profession are artistic talent and a pronounced ability to

12 H&R Scents Perfumer and trainee work closely during the training curriculum.

the scents the other has prepared, and vice versa. As an orientation aid, many perfumers create mnemonics or associate images with the fragrances, such as: Iris = powder, patchouli = Oriental market, geranium = Egypt, jasmin = erotic. Because, as described above, only their olfactory memory, the ability to imagine entire fragrance complexes, to recall them from memory and to rearrange them in their mind, is what constitutes the true talent of a perfumer. The nose is simply the most important “inspection instrument” for the task.

During the second half of their training, the fledgling perfumers campaign and marketing strategy cing of cosmetics, hair care have an opportunity to prove have already been stipulated, and products, toiletries, household themselves by working on actual the perfumer can only work within cleansers and innumerable che- customer projects. This often in- the narrow bounds of this frame- mical-technical products. A great volves a stay in a foreign country, work. Sometimes, though, the deal of attention is naturally paid which is intended to strengthen assignment is very broad, and to educating the future perfum- their global understanding of the briefing might call for only er’s sense of smell and olfactory their work, while also offering “a scent that is reminiscent of an memory. Even an experienced them a opportunity to get to autumn stroll in Tuscany.” It is perfumer practices daily. Typically, know the regional peculiarities precisely these “free” assignments two colleagues will prepare of the country or continent in that often serve as the nucleus various smelling strips for one question in order to broaden their for great perfume classics. another; each must then identify horizon for their future work. Training that always “follows the nose”

The training curriculum is divided into two parts: During a basic training period of approximately three years, trainees learn to know and differentiate between natural and synthetic fragrance substances, and become familiar with their chemical properties and olfactory qualities.

They learn composition techniques, not just for what are called the fine fragrances but also for A perfume the broad field of utility fragran- formula.

H&R Scents 13 Fragrance Families

FragranceFragrance FamiliesFamilies......

There is no doubt that olfaction Just as we learn to give names The Fragrance Circle is fundamentally a subjective to colors as children, we can also sensory impression. “I like assign names to the various olfac- Located in the outer circle are the lavender because it reminds me tory impressions. This produces above-mentioned fragrance fami- of my grandmother’s dresser an olfactory language with an lies, at the center only one large drawers. No, I don’t like laven- extensive vocabulary that can also group – that of the floral notes, der because it always reminds be scientifically underpinned. which can be combined from the me of having to stay after families in the outer circle. To a school.” Is it possible to ob- As described above, molecules certain extent, the Fragrance Circle jectively assess scents at all? with differing structures only fit corresponds to the structure of a Is there an olfactory language on their intended receptors, thus perfume. A perfume consists of a that rises above subjective evoking a wide variety of stimuli. top note, a heart note and a base perceptions and memories? Molecules with similar structures note, and thus lives from the dif- can be combined into olfactory ferent ways in which its fragrance families, as shown in the Fragrance compounds evaporate. And both Circle. evaporation as well as the olfactory effect it triggers are governed The Fragrance The fragrance families that are of by the perfume’s chemical struc- Circle importance in perfumery are ture – thus, related chemical struc- Citrus Aldehyde grouped within the circle, tures also have related olfactory while highly specific effects. Consequently, adjacent and unpleasant odors fragrance families are related to Green Fruity-light are located outside one another in terms of both their it. Smokey warns chemical structure and their olfac- Herbaceous against fire, sour tory characteristics. Nor were the Fruity-dark against spoiled colors in which the fragrance fami- Light Green Herbal-spicy foods. As we lies are depicted selected merely near the center by chance. Consumers were asked Sweet- Coniferous of the circle, to associate colors to their olfac- aromatic Floral notes the fragrance tory impressions. The left side of notes become the Fragrance Circle tends to con- Woody more complex tain feminine colors – Balsamic and are appa- as well as feminine Heavy rently perceived fragrance families Amber as being increa- – while the singly harmonious. right side Aromatic-spicy Animal tends to Leather be mas- culine. Tobacco

Oakmoss

Hexylacetate imparts the fragrance impression of ripe pears.

14 H&R Scents “Green” smells like freshly mown grass.

So what are these families all related to the smell of human Herbal-spicy about? skin and perspiration.Aldehyde The typical fragrance notes of C10 offers citrus aspects, while such herbaceous kitchen herbs as Top note: Aldehyde C11 undecylene thyme or mugwort. In addition to produces an animalic effect and its herbaceous underlying scent, Serves as the first impression of Aldehyde C12 Lauric a cool, there is also a pronouncedly unique- a fragrance, is intended to arouse almost ozone-like note. spicy element, which produces an curiosity and vanishes quickly. aromatic impression. The families positioned in the upper Fruity-light third of the circle are employed in Lively, light fruit fragrances, Coniferous composing the top note. especially those from fruits with The fragrance note of whole or green and yellow peels. This group crushed conifer needles or resins, Heart note (bouquet): includes apple, pear, melon and which can also display citrusy, Forms the actual fragrance character pineapple scents, for example. herbaceous or aromatic-spicy of the perfume and lasts for hours. As we have already seen, citrus elements, in addition to its typi- It usually consists of floral notes that fruits do not belong to this group. cally earthy note. Moreover, can be accentuated with the adjacent Fragrance examples include hexyl these fragrances are more or less families. acetate, which has a pear-like pronouncedly resinous and green. scent, or melon bases. Pine needle oil is coniferous with Base note: citrus-like accents, while fir balsam Green tends to be aromatic-resinous Serves as the foundation upon This group characterizes typical with sweet aspects. which the perfume is based, is inten- botanical fragrance notes, like ded to pleasantly underscore the those of leaves, stalks or freshly fading scent, and can last up to a mown grass, as well as cucum- day. It is composed from the fra- bery-violet-like green. Vertocitral grance families positioned in the “Citrus” – is reminiscent of leafy green, the fresh, lower third of the circle. cis-hexenol of green grass, while invigorating scent of citrus nonadienol tends to be remini- fruits. Top notes scent of violet and cucumber.

Citrus Herbaceaous Fresh, invigorating scents of Fragrance notes from the plant citrus fruit, like lemon, orange, kingdom that are closely related bergamot or grapefruit. to green. More complex than the actual green scents, herbaceous Aldehyde fragrances are more aromatic, Olfactory chain of the long-chain generally with camphorous, fatty aldehydes. This is a typical, minty, eucalyptus-like or earthy fatty-sweaty, somewhat pungent nuances. They are usually found and soapy olfactory note. The on low-growing, unobtrusively spectrum ranges from almondy- blossoming plants, i.e. herbs. fruity green nuances to ironed Typical examples include rosemary laundry fragrances and metallic or sage, as well as peppermint nuances right through to ozone, and lavender, a fragrance that ocean-like and waxy scents. Some is both herbaceous and floral at of the aldehyde fragrances are once. Fragrance Families

Heart (bouquet) notes this group often contains pronouncedly balsamic, spicy and Fruity-dark animalic notes. There are also This group includes the sweet, hybrid notes, like hyacinth, that sultry fragrance notes that mainly tend to be floral-heavy, but also influence the heart and base have clear green notes, as well notes of perfume compositions as violet, which is very green but and have high substantivity. can also be given a floral-woody Examples include raspberry and interpretation. peach. Base notes Floral notes Floral notes usually form the Woody heart of a perfume. They, too, This is a group of highly differing can be classified into light, green, fragrances that are reminiscent floral and heavy. “Light” includes of chipped wood. One of the typical springtime flowers like differentiations that is made is lily of the valley (Muguet), lilac, cedar, which smells like a pencil freesia and light rose notes, often with a camphorous off-note. with citrusy or fruity elements. Sandalwood tends to smell sultry, Lilac is a floral note. “Green” includes violet, for ex- warm and somewhat animalic. ample, as well as other blossoms Vetiver has a pronouncedly earthy in which a leafy note dominates root note. Patchouli also smells but can often have herbaceous, earthy, but also sweet with fruity earthy nuances. Narcotic floral nuances. nuance of seawater. The scent of fragrances that are more often amber is somewhat reminiscent found in southern climates than Amber of human hair. Natural amber in more northerly regions are Fragrance notes that are similar consists of pathological secretions considered “heavy.” These include, to natural amber. This olfactory of the sperm whale. Since this first and foremost, jasmin, tube- note is difficult to describe: Oily- whale population has unfortu- rose, orange blossom and narcis- woody with metallic elements, nately been decimated, true amber sus. In addition to the floral note, but also slightly nutty with a is a rarity today and very expen- sive. However there are imitations that come quite close to the natural note, such as amber Vites- sence, as well as amber notes of botanical origin, such as lab- danum. The Ambre 83 base has a very sweet amber note.

Animal In addition to amber, there are three further notes of animal Sandalwood – origin that are still employed in a representative of the “Woody” perfumery today – although they fragrance display the typical note of excre- category. ment, they offer an incomparable erogenous rounding-off effect in diluted form and in compositions.

16 H&R Scents Musk was originally obtained Tobacco from the olfactory glands of the Fragrance notes that are musk deer that is native to Asia. inspired by all tobacco- This tincture smells sweet and like notes, ranging from urine-like, as well as somewhat aromatically sauced medicinal. Genuine musk tincture pipe tobacco to cigar is priceless today and is very rarely tobacco right used. When speaking of musk through the smell notes today, what is generally of a stale ashtray. meant are aroma chemicals that Tobacco absolue are largely reminiscent of this offers a typical note, although they typically have scent. a more powdery and significantly less animalic scent. Civet absolue Aromatic-spicy is obtained from the secretions of Invigorating aromatic spice the olfactory glands of an African notes that can also contain cat, the civet. As these animals are bitter and/or piquant ele- captured to obtain the secretions, ments. Typical examples of “Tobacco” in all of its facets without causing them any harm, these fragrances include is an interesting civet is still in very widespread cardamom, nutmeg, fragrance use today as an animalic note. Its curry, clove and cinna- element. scent is fecal-acidic with a slight mon. honey note. Balsamic Leather Heavy, sweet, rich fragrances remembered that the first im- The fragrance notes of genuine with chocolate-vanilla-like, cinna- pression of a perfume is produced leather and Russian leather. This mon-like to resinous fragrance by the interplay between all of term is interpreted very broadly. elements. These scents were al- the fragrance materials that are The typical components of leather ready popular “Oriental” notes in employed in it – while leather, for compositions include birch tar ancient times, such as Peru balm example, is a base note, it is oil, for example. Isobutyl chino- or olibanum, i.e. frankincense. responsible producing the overall line often serves as an important Nuances of this family can also character of the perfume, and is leather element. The leather Vi- be found in many orchid notes. not just present in the after-scent. tessence offers a clearly leathery The name is derived from the smell. word “balsam,” which is used to denote Oakmoss certain kinds of resins. This fragrance class refers to extraction products of specific Sweet-aromatic lichen – especially those that grow Pronouncedly sweet on oak trees. The typical oakmoss fragrances that smell note smells uniquely dry, algae- like honey, almond, like, with a cheese-rind note and marzipan, anise or a tar-like, phenolic element, in woodruff, e.g. cou- addition to green nuances. Lichen marin, often with rich- Cinnamon that grow on other types of fruity or spicy nuances. is a typical trees supply extraction products In Spite of the segmen- representative (tree moss) that smell woodier tation in the Fragrance of invigorating aromatic Spice and more resinous. Circle, it should be notes.

H&R Scents 17 Application

PerfumePerfume OilsOils forfor aa WideWide RangeRange ofof Applications...Applications...

It would be a mistake to think As a result of the differing needs fragrance. What are meant are that the work of perfumers and objectives that perfume oils perfumes, eau de colognes, relates only to the develop- have to satisfy, they are classified eau de toilettes, after shaves and ment of perfume oils for the into the following product other fragrant splashes, which “fine fragrances” that are groups: typically have a relatively high offered so elegantly on the perfume oil concentration of shelves of perfume shops. Fine fragrances between 8 and 20%. Almost every time they use a This segment is also termed personal cleansing product or “alcoholic perfumery,” as alcohol Toiletries a toiletry or a household clean- serves as the carrier for the All products intended for cleaning er or care product, consumers or grooming the body are grouped encounter the perfume oils in this category, although it also that these products contain. includes perfume oils for cosmetic or sunscreen products.

Household products This category comprises all of the products that are employed in the household. These include cleansers and care products, all launde- ring and fabric care products, as well as air fresheners.

18 H&R Scents A perfume’s wide range of tasks

The purpose of the perfumes from the fine fragrance group is to use harmonious fragrance development to reflect and underscore the wearer’s individuality and personality. In selecting a fragrance, consumers often also identify with a brand, a fashion trend or a philosophy of should not only “washed especially gently”, life. They associate their favorite be visible, it should “washed especially clean” or fragrance – either consciously or also be “smellable.” “was hard on the laundry”. subconsciously – with the emotio- The importance of this fra- nal brand image they have seen grance-effect relationship A finished perfume oil is from advertisements or TV com- was demonstrated by a simple not created over night mercials, which is usually also experiment. Consumers were reflected in the product’s packa- asked to test three “different” If a new product from one of the ging and flacon design. laundry detergents. What they above three segments is to be did not know was that while the brought to market (launched), If, for example, an extraverted fragrance was different, the other the manufacturer usually turns to woman reaches for a transparent ingredients in the laundry deter- a fragrance producer, a fragrance bluish or greenish flacon, she gent were identical in all three house, to obtain a perfume oil expects a fresh-floral fragrance cases. The results were as unam- that is custom-tailored to its that reflects her temperament. biguous as they were surprising: needs. Only few companies that An introverted consumer will Depending upon the fragrance use perfume oils in their finished likely select a flacon in red or effect, the effectiveness of products have their own in-house gold, which means she wants the detergent was assessed as perfumers. a warm, Oriental scent. So the perfumer’s creations not only A “briefing” is used to explain have to be esthetically upmarket the assignment to the perfumers “olfactory garments” for the from the fragrance house. The wearer, they also have to blend briefing contains information in harmoniously with the accus- about the nature and design of tomed brand image. the new product, about the defined target group for which A product fragrancing has a the product was developed and, different purpose. In this case, of course, about such technical the fragrancing is intended to requirements as usage rate and make the product pleasant for fragrance profile. And the price the consumer to use. The hands that will have to be paid for the should smell fresh and clean after perfume oil also plays a major they have been washed with soap. role. And a freshly mopped floor should smell clean – but it should The briefing serves as the basis be a different kind of “clean” for the work of a team that con- than freshly washed hands. sists of a perfumer, evaluator, Perfumers marketing specialist and usually a In product fragrancing, the scent develop fragran- product specialist. The members ces for widely is expected to impart a message – differing product of this team work together to a product’s effect or effectiveness groups. translate the briefing into a

H&R Scents 19 Application

they serve. They thus act as a link between the perfumer, who develops the new fragrance with a view to creative aspects, and the marketing specialist, who provides conceptual support in developing the fragrance and maintains an objective, marketing- oriented view. The fragrance has to prove itself in the finished product

Guided by the evaluator’s assessment, the perfumer then varies and modifies his or her composition until optimum fragrance development has been achieved in the product. Realistic application tests are an absolute neces- The amount of a perfume in the finished product, e.g. in a sity in this connection: A laundry shower gel, ranges between detergent, for example, should 0.1 and 2.0%. not just have a pleasant scent when it is added to the washing fragrance composition that will to the medium in question and satisfy all of the desired criteria. In then tested. This is why perfume doing so, the first step is to select houses usually have product a fragrance theme that will do a specialists, often chemists, who good job of esthetically under- work in their own laboratories to scoring the effect of the product. develop a wide range of media, Only then does the perfumer such as soaps, shampoos, creams set about to transform this idea or dishwash detergents. The into a perfume oil. In addition to perfume oil concentrate is appro- esthetics, two additional aspects priately added to the medium in a are also very important – the typical concentration (usage rate) masking power of the fragrance of between 0.1 and 2.0 % of the and its stability. finished product in the case of toiletries and household products. Masking power means a composition’s ability to cover up the An evaluator then assesses the inherent odor of the medium fragrance in a sample of the to be fragranced, for example a finished product. Evaluators are soap or a cleanser, without sig- fragrance specialists who have a nificantly altering the selected specially trained nose and can An Evaluation fragrance theme. This can natu- speak the professional language staff member rally only be assessed within the of the perfumers, on the one testing the fragrance context of the application itself, hand, as well as a very good development of i.e. the fragrance has to be added knowledge of the market segment a shampoo.

20 H&R Scents Both the scent of the fabric softener itself as well as the scent of the washed laundry are assessed.

machine. When the wet laundry substances that can react with their thumbs-up to the aging is removed from the machine, both one another as well as with sample is the fragrance develop- the dried laundry is hanging on the medium that is being frag- ment process concluded. Only the clothesline and is later ironed ranced. In either case, this could now will a presentation be made – the fragrance always has to be cause the fragrance to change to the customer. If the customer noticeable and pleasing. The significantly, and often in an is satisfied with the fragrance, same also applies in developing unpleasant way. Discoloration of the composition – which has thus a fragrance for a shampoo: It is the product is also possible. To far been compounded only on a necessary to assess fragrance avoid both of these risks, special scale of grams – can now be development and substantivity endurance tests were developed produced on a production scale. on both wet and dry hair. Air in which the fragrance compo- Fully automated, computer-con- fresheners or cleansing agents, sition is subjected to weeks of trolled compounding equipment too, are assessed with respect to exposure to heat and light in the then uses the perfumer’s formula their effect in the room in stan- product. Only when the evaluator to produce batches of up to dardized, individually ventilated and the perfumer have given several tons in size. olfaction chambers. Only when all of these tests have produced satisfactory results is the first step in the development of a fragrance completed.

In addition, the perfumer also has to keep an eye on the stability of the fragrance composition as it is being developed. In this case, stability means that only minor changes in the fragrance may occur throughout the long weeks and months that the product spends on a supermarket shelf and in the consumer’s home. Although this would appear to be obvious, it does necessitate good knowledge and experience on the part of the perfumer. Computer- controlled pro- Yet in spite of this professional duction systems knowledge, only a final test can compound even provide definitive information huge volumes of perfume oils about stability, because a perfume with an accuracy oil is a blend of a wide range of of a single gram.

H&R Scents 21 Cosmetic Ingredients

CosmeticCosmetic IngredientsIngredients......

The history of cosmetics is The ancient Egyptians bathed Today’s consumers, though, not inseparably linked with that in ass’s milk and were the first to only use cosmetics for utilitarian of perfume. The Egyptians, master the art of producing purposes – in addition to wanting Greeks, Romans and Chinese – ointments. Lavishly perfumed mildness and environmental all of the high civilizations of ointments were stored in artistic compatibility, their focus is pre- the ancient world – not only vessels and traded by the Phoeni- dominantly on protection and endeavored to capture the cians. Decorative cosmetics were sensory experience. Modern magic of fragrance in tiny also very widespread – the black cosmetic ingredients are available bottles and vessels, they also of animal-based kohl was used to for achieving this kind of product had a pronounced knowledge accentuate the eyes, the intense profile. Just as malachite lent of the healing and beautifying green of crushed malachite to color to the eyelids of the ancient effects of natural extracts, color the eyelids. Egyptians, precisely defined pro- which were the only cosmetic ducts can be employed to create ingredients that were available Like perfumery, modern cosmetics a highly specific, desired effect to them. as we know it today is closely today. linked with the emergence of synthetic chemistry, which enabled Several examples from daily life new and more effective ingredients will now be used to illustrate the to be produced in larger quantities interrelationships that exist be- and purer quality. Today, the wide tween cosmetic ingredients and variety of cosmetic ingredients the subject of fragrance materials enables sophisticated cosmetic and aroma chemicals: products with a complex product The ancient Egyptians used profiles to be manufactured, Sunscreen products the green of prompting lawmakers in malachite as eye Germany, for example, to It might come as a surprise to shadow. Today, a greater selection issue a clearly defined consumers to learn that fragrance is available. definition: compounds and sunscreen absorbers – two classes of products “Cosmetic ingredients to which a cosmetic ingredient is in the sense of this added, but for entirely different Act are substances reasons – possess similar chemical or substance pre- structures. However this is also parations which the case in cinnamic acid deriva- are intended to be tives, for example. Since fragrance employed externally or compounds with this kind of in the oral cavity of human structure had already been pro- beings for the purpose of clean- duced for use in perfume oils, sing, grooming or influencing it was an obvious step to develop appearance or body odor or to light-absorbing substances for impart olfactory effects, unless use in cosmetic products. they are predominantly intended to ease or remedy illnesses, afflic- As late as the beginning of tions, injuries or pathological the past century, white skin was infirmities.” considered to be a mark of the

22 H&R Scents in the form of microfine pigments in cosmetic formulations. Their protective effect is based upon a combination of reflection and absorption of the UV light.

The sun protection factor (SPF) defines the level of protection the upper classes, while tanned skin (tanning), while the UV-B radiation Aroma chemicals product offers before erythema characterized the working and produces indirect pigmentation and cosmetic (sunburn) occurs. A sun protec- ingredients can farming classes. Parasols and hats and, in the event of excessive often have a tion factor of 12, for example, were used to protect the face intensity, an inflammatory reaction very similar chem- means that the user can stay in against tanning, and freckles were in the skin that is commonly ical structure. the sun 12 times longer than doggedly combated. Cosmetics termed sunburn. This reaction, with unprotected skin. Standardi- that were intended to whiten which is highly dependent upon zed methods for quantifying sun the face had already been created skin type, can be viewed as an protection factors in a sunscreen in previous centuries – the em- early warning system to safeguard product have existed in Europe ployment of such powders and against excessive exposure to the and the United States since the ointments sometimes had serious sun. UV radiation generally leads 1970s. The best method today is consequences though: Whitening to premature skin aging and biological, directly on the skin. lead derivatives could lead to damage, and in extreme cases to Given the present state of the art, the loss of hair and teeth, and skin cancer. comparable physical measure- ultimately to serious poisoning ments provide only clues to effi- as well. There are various ways to safe- Tanned skin is cacy. popular, but the guard against the negative effects right protection Changes in social structure have of sunshine: The skin can naturally is important. made travel to sunny regions a be covered with clothing. To pro- symbol of recreation and pros- duce the “healthy” that is usually perity today – tanned skin is con- desired, but without negative sidered to be a sign of health and side-effects, sunscreen filters (UV youth. The invisible portion of filters) were developed that sunlight, ultraviolet (UV) radiation, absorb a certain portion of the produces a protective reaction in ultraviolet radiation before it can the skin: It darkens. The pigment penetrate into the skin. These that is produced in this process, are defined organic molecules melanin, acts as a natural sun- that absorb UV-A and/or UV-B screen absorber and protects the radiation. They are added to a layers of skin beneath, although cosmetic agent in order to enable its protective effect is in no way them to be uniformly applied comparable to that of synthetic to the skin. Naturally, just like sunscreen absorbers. colorants and preservatives, they are governed by detailed official The UV-A radiation in sunlight regulations. There are also inor- penetrates deep into the skin ganic sunscreen products. Zinc and causes direct pigmentation oxide or titanium oxide are used

H&R Scents 23 Cosmetic Ingredients

To not only safeguard against Botanical extracts These tradition-steeped products, sunburn but also against prema- which are obtained either through ture aging of the skin caused by Back in the seventeenth century, steam distillation or alcoholic sunshine, UV absorbers are not English apothecary Nicolas Culpe- extraction, are specially designed only being used in sunscreen proper published a work that is still for use in washing and personal ducts, but are today increasingly in existence today, “Culpeper’s care products for the skin, hair also being added to such daily Herbal,” which listed all of the and oral cavity. cosmetics as day creams or make- effects of medicinal plants that up bases. In order to satisfy this were known at the time. Even The extensive spectrum of pro- wide range of requirements, the though this book might tend to ducts ranges from extracts of producers of cosmetic ingredients make for historical reading today, well-known domestic plants, like today usually offer an extensive it does demonstrate that plants arnica (antimicrobial effect and portfolio of intercoordinated and plant (botanical) extracts have promotion of circulation) or ivy sunscreen absorbers that are enjoyed a firm place in pharma- (antibacterial and antirheumatic suitable for widely differing fields ceuticals and cosmetics for centu- effect), to such more exotic of application and absorb defined ries in Europe as a result of their products as ginseng (stimulating) spectra of ultraviolet radiation. beneficial and therapeutic effect. or ginkgo biloba (promotion of circulation and vitalizing effect). The botanical portion of the extracts, which ranges between 3 and 15%, depending upon the product in question, can also consist of a mixture of various plants, whose ranges of effectiveness are optimally matched to one another. Examples include products that contain a mixture of chamomile, nettle, rosemary, lemon balm, horse chestnut, sage, horsetail and coltsfoot. In a comparison study, it was possible to demonstrate a clear sebum-reducing effect, i.e. a reduction in the amount of sebum the scalp secretes.

The beneficial effect of chamomile has also been able to be Botanical scientifically evidenced: The extracts are a employment of chamomile meas- natural form of cosmetic urably retarded the formation ingredients. of erythema (sunburn), while it accelerated healing of the skin.

24 H&R Scents Peppermint leaf and synthetic l-menthol.

Cooling agents generations of cooling agents: ions, react. Cooling agents (peppermint and menthol) Certain lactic acid esters of influence the release of these menthol, for example, which are calcium ions; they indirectly Around 40–50% of peppermint, employed in skin and hair care stimulate electrochemical trans- Mentha piperita, consists of one products in the acid to neutral mission of the stimulus, and chemical substance: Menthol. pH range (pH 4–8), in particular. therefore produce the impression The specific structure of this Or menthyl glycerinacetal, which of coolness. substance produces a feeling of can be employed in alkaline freshness and coolness on the media (pH 8–12), e.g. in a deo- Sunscreen products, botanical skin and oral mucous membranes. dorant. While l-menthol is also extracts and cooling agents are This effect is highly valued, employed as a fragrance material but three examples of how fra- and not just in toothpastes and because its minty-herbaceous grance compounds and cosmetic lozenges – in hot climates, hot scent, its derivatives are usually ingredients can be combined. sweetened peppermint tea is odorless, which makes them Identical sources of raw materials, drunk for its strengthening and superbly suited for employment similar processing or production cooling effect. as cooling agents in cosmetics. methods and employment in the same consumer products are The active ingredient, l-menthol, What produces this cooling what relate these two product can be obtained from pepper- effect? We know that it is not categories, which are taking mint, which is cultivated on a a physical phenomenon. Its effect on increasing significance in the large scale in India and China, is biochemical in nature. The fee- cosmetics segment. for example. However synthetic Cooling agents ling of heat and cold is produced l-menthol offers a significantly are often added by sensory nerve cells that termi- to men’s groo- higher level of purity. But since ming products nate directly beneath the surface pure l-menthol poses disadvan- and cosmetics. of the skin. When a stimulus is tages when employed in triggered, the impulse is electro- cosmetic products, chemically transmitted via the scientific nervous system. When this hap- findings have pens, so-called neurotrans- been used to mitters, which are controlled develop new by the discharge of calcium

H&R Scents 25 Quality Assurance

QualityQuality AssuranceAssurance andand ProductProduct SafetySafety......

“To err is human,” goes the purchase of the raw materials form to standardized, traceable old saying. And it is precisely right through to delivery of the “standard operating procedures” because of this that a respon- finished products, with ongoing in order to assure a consistently sible company not only has to tests and inspections being per- high level of quality in all areas of respond to potential sources formed at these critical points in operation. Quality coordinators in of problems but must also the production process in order the individual departments assure work proactively to identify to assure the stipulated standards that this quality management and prevent them. This is of quality. system is instituted and followed. one of the goals of quality The proper functioning of a sys- management, which has Testing and managing tem of this kind can be reviewed become a crucial aspect of quality in an audit. Satisfaction of all operational processes. stipulated requirements is con- The foundation for this consists firmed through the issuance of In order to produce perfume of a documentation and admini- a certificate under ISO 9000ff. oils of consistently high quality, stration system that governs oper- This certification is reviewed every potential sources of problems ational procedures. Under this three years through a new audit, must be ferreted out, from concept, all process steps con- and then either confirmed or withdrawn.

The quality management docu- mentations are implemented in the form of quality testing. These tests are performed by the Chemical and Physical Analysis, Sensory Analysis or Microbiology service departments. The test data developed there are conso- lidated in a cross-departmental information technology system, where they are compared with the customer specifications. Testing is performed in Receiving, Shipping and in intermediate Production stages.

Incoming consignments of goods consist of natural substances, fragrance materials and aroma The individual inspection enabling around 90% of all tests and testing stations to be automated. Only if there is a variance is the result displayed, Chemical and Physical Analysis and the staff then determines – The Chemical and Physical Analysis and eliminates – the source of Department reviews the physical- the problem. chemical data of the products. Largely automated data capture Further analyses, such as acid systems afford swift testing and value, peroxide value, pH measure- evaluation of the samples. In an ment or determination of the analytical laboratory that is air flashpoint, are performed at the conditioned to a temperature customer’s request or for special of 20°C, such standard data as products. The results of the optical rotation, refraction and inspections are input into cross- chemicals, which are initially Both raw specific gravity are determined; departmental databases, in which subject to an identity inspection. materials and automatically sampling gas chro- the tested status of the goods is ingredients, as The correctness of the supplied well as finished matographs, so-called autosam- administered. product is first checked by review- perfume oils, plers, continuously check the ing its appearance and determi- undergo nume- “electronic fingerprints” of the Sensory Analysis rous quality ning its specific gravity. In addition, tests and inspec- incoming samples. The instrumen- In spite of cutting-edge analysis random samples are taken, which tions. tation, which is calibrated daily methods, the nose continues are then subjected to the same in accordance with ISO instrumen- to be the most sensitive testing tests and inspections as the tation standards, automatically “instrument.” Trained specialists products that are later shipped, compares the analysis results with perform olfactory assessments of i.e. the finished perfume oils. a computer-controlled database, some 150 samples a day. Around half of these tests consist of so- Whether they are raw materials called in-process controls. These or compositions – both product controls occur between two groups have a defined analytical process steps. If random samples and sensory profile that is stipu- are taken from supplied containers lated in a product specification. in a receiving operation, every This specification is either defined container is again subjected to in-house or contractually agreed an olfactory inspection when a with the supplier or customer. supply tank is filled. Intermediate It serves as a kind of “product stages within the production passport,” which is checked flow, such as when raw materials during quality testing. Fast, pre- are dissolved, also have to pass cise work is crucial in connection the critical noses of the fragrance with the testing, because this is specialists before further proces- a critical point in the operational sing can occur. process and the goods will not be released for further processing Impurities caused by outside or shipment until all inspection odors, which could falsify the data have been tabulated. olfactory impression, represent a

Every sample has an analytically measurable “fingerprint”, which has to coincide with the reference standard.

H&R Scents 27 Quality Assurance

a freshly compounded perfume oil usually seems somewhat “rougher.” In performing their sensory analysis work, the fragrance specialists have to take these naturally occurring fluctua- tions in the fragrance impression into account and be able to distinguish them from a possible

The most sensi- problematic aspect of the olfac- consignment reference samples, tive testing is tory assessment. Consequently, are kept in a storeroom that is air still performed with the nose. in-process samples are sent to an conditioned to a temperature of “olfactory lock,” which separates 18°C. They can naturally also be the production or receiving area employed for any other desired from a neutral sensory analysis kind of analytical comparison. room that is equipped with This collection also includes its own ventilation system. Here, samples of raw materials and compounding error. But it is not the fragrance specialists can ingredients, which are employed just the first impression, the impact, evaluate the sample and pass as the reference standards for that is compared. The olfactory on the results directly. Outgoing receiving inspections. impression of the finished pro- consignments of products, i.e. duct must also agree with that finished perfume oils, are also Both a fine nose and experience of the standard after two hours. inspected in this kind of room. are important factors in reliable Assessment by two different In this case, the samples are olfac- olfactory sensory assessment. The testers guarantees the most torally compared with a standard scent of the finished perfume oils objective possible results. How- consisting of previously produced always has to agree with that of ever the work of Sensory Analysis products that have been found to the standard. However perfume includes more than just a critical be of proper quality. Depending oils typically consist of complex assessment of odor: Color and upon the size of the perfume oil blends of natural fragrance mate- appearance, too, are checked, producer, some 50,000 to 75,000 rials and aroma chemicals, which and these results, too, are stored of these standards, so-called “mature” with storage, while in the database.

28 H&R Scents Microbiological testing of fragrance materials.

Microbiology In Microbiology, selected products are tested for the amount of certain microorganisms they contain. There is no problem of microbial impurity in the case of aroma chemicals. And most of the natural substances that are employed in the production of perfume oils, such as essential oils or absolues, generally have an inherent preservative effect. What are tested, though, are thick plant extracts, for example, which are processed upstream in the production of cosmetic ingredients. Close collaboration

between the individual testing departments enables quality testing to be performed quickly and comprehensively on the basis of the defined quality management system. Any problems that do occur are swiftly remedied and sources of problems avoided. The mission and objective is to assure the consistently high quality and traceability of all steps in the production of perfume oils.

H&R Scents 29 Product Safety

Product Safety and ResponsibilityResponsibility......

It is not just quality that plays an important Like the cosmetic ingredients Why is an international organiza- role in selecting the raw materials and ingre- described in the preceding chap- tion needed? Since the fragrance dients that are used in the creation of perfume ter, perfume oils, which represent industry is also experiencing a oils. The safety and harmlessness of the a complex blend of raw materials globalization of its markets, the employed substances for both people and and ingredients, are also used in logical consequence has to be the environment are of key importance. cosmetic products. The employ- rules that apply worldwide. Inter- ment of both is subject to national national self-regulation enables and European legislation relating the latest scientific findings to to cosmetic products. be instituted faster than would be possible through legislation in In Germany, for example, the various countries on different European Commission’s cosmetics continents. directive is implemented in the Cosmetics Code (“KVO”), which The IFRA uses the latest scientific is annexed to the Food and No- findings to develop minimum tions Act (“LMBG”). In addition, requirements for the safe develop- numerous national and European ment and employment of perfu- laws and regulations govern the mery raw materials and ingredients development and production of and to formulate industry guide- fragrance materials and perfume lines that are viable in actual oils with respect to environmental practice. Its members, the national protection and job safety. associations of the fragrance industry, receive constantly up- However the responsibility exer- dated lists indicating which raw cised by fragrance houses goes materials and ingredients are beyond legal requirements. Back subject to restrictions or may not in 1973, the national associations be employed at all. In certain of the fragrance industry formed cases, their employment is only an international self-regulating permissible if precisely defined body, the International Fragrance quality guidelines are observed. Association (IFRA). One of its most important objectives is to Research mission: draw up guidelines that assure Product safety the safety of people and the environment in connection with the The most important source that production and use of perfumes is drawn upon when the Science and perfumed products. Committee of the IFRA develops

30 H&R Scents Perfume oils are Skin compati- a complex blend bility tests of of raw materials aroma chemicals and ingredients – are conducted however their by independent production and pharmacologists, employment are toxologists and governed by in- dermatologists. ternational rules.

these guidelines is an independent Today and in the future, these science institute in the United efforts are aimed at assuring that States. In 1966 – even before the fragrance experience can be the IFRA was formed – the non- enjoyed without any worries with commercial Research Institute respect to ill effects on people for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) and the environment. This desire was founded with the objective for fragrance experiences, which of compiling data on all popular is not a fad of recent years, had perfume oil raw materials and already been sung by the Mayan ingredients that would be of re- Indians: levance for the safe use of these products. An international team How could we live without of experts, consisting of pharma- fragrances? cologists, toxicologists and der- Who would carry our prayers matologists with no economic to God? ties to the fragrance industry – Who would sanctify birth, to assure their independence – marriage and death, develops this scientific data. And who would lend so much If such data are unavailable for more bliss to love? a specific raw material or ingredients, the RIFM conducts the required studies. Safety assessments of the raw materials and ingredients used in perfumery are always based upon existing data.

In addition, the members of the national associations, the individual fragrance producers, naturally work in close collaboration with independent pharmacologists, toxicologists and dermatologists – e.g. from the university community – to steadily supple- ment safety assessment findings.

H&R Scents 31