Welcome to Iowa

Farm of Mike Klein of Berkwood, Brooklyn Iowa. CULTURED

SALUMI CHARCUTERIE SEL SEC DAUERWURST

PORK IS COMPLEX

• Milk and Meat = water, proteins and fat. • Milk is a relatively simple, a complete liquid food for the newborn. • Meat is part of a complex living organism. PORK TO MEAT

• Butchering • Blood • Organs • Carcass REGULATIONS

• To eliminate all germs at all cost and consequences (including our own health). • It needs an update:

“After all the wolves are back in Yellowstone, for the health of nature”.

• HACCP is an intelligent system, but its application distract from the product to the paperwork. BREAKING BONING TRIMMING

• HIGH SKILLS Required to sort and grade 3 main components of the meat: Myosin and Actinin: the muscle proteins solubilized in salt. Fat : hardest close to the skin with stronger collagen matrix. Collagen : membranes and sinews, gelatinize with steam

SALAMI

• Ingredients

• 75% muscle meat and 25% hard fat comminuted, mixed with 2.5% salt, 0.5%sugar, 0.03% saltpeter and inoculated with ferments. • Process • Meats and fat to be pre-conditioned to avoid smearing. • Achieve a good binding in a water and protein based emulsion. (reversed, protein and water in fat = smearing). • Beneficial rest time for the osmotic diffusion of salts and development of microbial ferments. • Stuffing the paste into proper casings and tying.

TRANSMUTATION

• Myosin and Actinin become the binder. • Fermenting create a gel. • Nitrate reduces to nitrite and cures. • Acidification release water. • Enzymes (from the meat and from molds and yeasts) develop flavor.

ENVIRONMENT

• Cold: for the meat handling slight freezing, before grinding or chopping. • Cool: for the resting of the paste. For stuffing and tying, • Warm, comfortable: to prime the fermentation. • Cooling and controlled humidity: for drying and molding.

ART AND SKILL

• Finesse: measure of temperature, PH and water activity or relative humidity is not enough. Numbers are information. The attention must be on the product. The connection is sensorial : LOOK. SMELL. TOUCH. • Feelings and Attention are the keys. EQUIPMENT

• Anything, from a sharp knife and a smart use of the environment to automated machines and climat cotrolled rooms. PRODUCTS

Whole Muscle Curing Salt & Time

- Meat preservation is as old as man eating meat - Salting and Smoking - Main Objective is to Dry the meat - Started using nature now Technology Good Meat from Happy Pigs

- Pigs that get to act like pigs are going to taste better - Forage for food - Have space to run and play Simplistic Handling

• Salt and Spices • No preservatives • No Nitrites or Nitrates • No mechanical interventions Dry the Meat

• Controlled Environments • Removing water while concentrating flavor • Use of Air, Heat and Refrigeration Trim & Pack • Prosciutto 75 handlings and 10-12 months processing time • Each touch is opportunity to set it up for success in next step. • Cheese shops of the world are the last step! LET’S GET THE PÂTÉ STARTED !

ARTISANAL COOKED CHARCUTERIE

SEBASTIEN ESPINASSE JULY 2016 OBJECTIVES OF THIS TRAINING

WHAT IS HOW TO HOW TO ARTISANAL ENJOY MAKE PÂTÉ, COOKED PÂTÉ, MOUSSE MOUSSE AND CHARCUTERI AND RILLETTES ? E? RILLETTES ? WHAT IS ARTISANAL COOKED CHARCUTERIE? A LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY

“The art of turning preserved food into items of beauty and taste.” 16th century: no refrigeration

How to preserve meat ?

Preparing the meat: salting, cooking, smoking, drying …

Convenient & popular: portable, versatile, quick to serve, nutritious, and DELICIOUS ! WHAT IS CHARCUTERIE? I. What is artisanal cooked charcuterie? II. How do we make cooked charcuterie ? III. How to enjoy cooked charcuterie? Etymology: From French “chair”: flesh and “cuit”: cooked Prepared meat products

Culinary specialties made of Includes a vast range of cooked meat preparations : Mainly made from pork Salting, cooking, smoking, but not only. drying … Different parts of the animal can be used. Salt is often used as a French idiom: “Everything in preservative. the pig is good to eat”. Most common specialties: ham, raw sausages, dry sausages and pâtés. WHAT IS COOKED CHARCUTERIE?

Charcuterie Cooked Charcuterie

Mixture of cooked ground meat and fat minced into a spreadable paste.

These specialties are fully cooked and ready to enjoy ! Cooked Raw Sausages & Sausages Ham Dry Cooked Sausages Charcuterie HOW DO WE MAKE PÂTÉS MOUSSES AND RILLETTES ? I. What is artisanal cooked charcuterie? II. How do we make cooked charcuterie DEFINITION ? III. How to enjoy cooked charcuterie?

Slowly cooked in their terrine, in the oven: Generally spreadable on bread or crackers. Fully cooked !

May include meat, fat, liver, eggs, milk, spices, herbs, alcohol (such as brandy)… QUALITY MANAGEMENT

Food safety is managed through HACCP*: analysis and control of A food traceability All establishments that biological, chemical, and system is capable of produce meat, poultry, physical hazards. identifying a unique and/or egg products are batch and the raw regulated by USDA's materials used in its Food Safety and production through each Inspection Service (FSIS). step of the process. DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PÂTÉ, RILLETTES & MOUSSE DIFFERENT TEXTURES

Pâté Rillettes Mousse pronounced [pah-TAY] pronounced [Ri-Yet] pronounced [Mous]

Made with chunks of meats Made from minced and shredded Made of livers (from goose, duck, pork meat seasoned and cooked confit or chicken) ⇒ Coarse texture style. ⇒ Ground meats ⇒ Creamy, silky, smooth texture ⇒ Looks rustic ⇒ Shredded and meaty texture ⇒ Spreadable BASIC STEPS - RECIPE

Separate the meat Cook the Shred from carcass meat in the its own meat Rillette fat s

Add other Grind the ingredients Fill molds Cooking Cooling meat such as spices Pâtés

Add other ingredients Emulsion such as spices Mousse s FUNCTIONS OF THE ASPIC Mousse Pâté Protect product against light

Help unmold product from terrine

Aspic can be eaten (made of gelatin)

Option: decoration with vegetables, pepper… I. What is artisanal cooked charcuterie? II. How do we make cooked charcuterie COOKING PROCEDURE ? III. How to enjoy cooked charcuterie?

Cooking procedures are based on textures, sizes, temperature and cooking times. Internal temperature is taken with a thermometer placed in the center of the product.

Minimum internal temperature for all products is 162F. COOLING PROCEDURE Efficient cooling is needed to avoid bacteria growth.

Recorders probe are placed in the center of the larger sized product of the day.

Recorder with a 24h chart is use to monitor cooling time & temperature.

Cooling time depends on products size HOW TO ENJOY COOKED CHARCUTERIE? ENJOYING PÂTÉ IS EASY AS ABCI. What is artisanal cooked charcuterie? II. How do we make cooked charcuterie ? III. How to enjoy cooked charcuterie? Take some along to your picnic, for a fancy snack or use as part of antipasto platter.

Part of an assortment of starters, or as a starter on its own.

Combined with a salad and crusty bread

For a perfect gourmet experience: savored along with a glass of wine ! HOW TO BUILD A CHARCUTERIE

BOARD? CORNICHON S SAUCISSON

PÂTÉ

RILLETTES

BREAD GOOD TO KNOW

Maintain products refrigerated at all time How to unmold a terrine ? to maximize shelf life

Unstick pâté from Shelf life of pâtés unopened: mold by pulling out 1 7 to 8 weeks refrigerated at 40C. on the 2 sides of the terrine. Shelf life of pâtés after opening: . Left over pâtés should be wrapped in plastic film . Refrigerated for up to 7 days Flip the mold upside down and press the 2 top down while We do not recommend to freeze pâtés but if you’re keeping pulling out willing to do it thaw pâtés overnight in the fridge. on the sides. I. What is artisanal cooked charcuterie? II. How do we make cooked charcuterie WINE PAIRING ? III. How to enjoy cooked charcuterie?

Duck Rillettes Pâté de Campagne Duck Mousse Truffle Mousse Côtes du Rhône Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Beaujolais Village Gewurztraminer Pinot Noir Tawny Port Wine Saumur Crémant de Bourgogne “Rosé” Gigondas Gewurztraminer Anjou Riesling St-Emilion Grand Cru Madeira Sancerre Rouge BEER PAIRING

Duck Pâté Pâté de Campagne Duck Rillettes Truffle Mousse

Bière de American Scottish Indian Pale New Bière de German/ Champagne/ Wild Ale Ale Ale Belgium’s Champagne/ Bohemia Bière Brut La Folie Bière Brut Pilsner THANK YOU !

July 2016