Long-tailed Ground Roller (Chris Kehoe) ULTIMATE MADAGASCAR 8 – 25/29 October 2019 LEADER: CHRIS KEHOE Our recent Madagascar tour produced a wealtH of fabulous birds and mammals. We explored a wide range of Habitats, from tHe species rich eastern rainforests to tHe spectacular spiny forests of tHe far west, and from estuaries and offshore islands to tHe rugged central plateau. THe accolade of Bird of tHe Trip went to tHe sensational Schlegel’s Asity; quite an achievement in tHe face of competition from tHe likes of tHe spectacular and much-wanted Helmet Vanga, all of tHe wonderful ground rollers and mesites, tHe remarkable Cuckoo Roller, a pletHora of fantastic couas, Malagasy Harriers rigHt overHead, Madagascan Fish Eagles almost at touching distance and many, many more. WHile Malagasy endemics were inevitably our main focus, we were pleased to see several choice, but more widespread, species such as sublime Red-tailed Tropicbirds and Crab Plovers, tHe latter joined by a vagrant Sooty Gull. THis being Madagascar it was not all about birds and we made a special effort to see as many of tHe islands amazing mammals as well, being well rewarded witH a total of 22 lemur species, ranging from tHe diminutive mouse lemurs to tHe largest of tHem all, tHe stunning Indri, tHe evocative wailing calls of wHich echoed tHrougH tHe hill forests. Ring-tailed Lemurs, many of wHich Had young, wHere watched at close range but perHaps best of all were tHe delightful Sifakas, of wHich we saw three different species. THe weatHer during tHe tour was generally fine tHougH a little drizzly at times and, apart from losing most of one afternoon to Heavier rain, everytHing ran smootHly - an advantage of minimizing tHe number of internal fligHts taken on tHe notoriously unreliable national airline. THe word unique is easily overused but is entirely appropriate in relation to Madagascar wHich fully deserves its unofficial title of the ‘eigHtH continent’. 1 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2019 www.birdquest -tours.com Having gatHered tHe previous day, our tour began witH an all-day drive soutH from tHe capital, Tana, to Ranomafana in tHe eastern HigHlands. A few common and widespread species were seen en route such as DimorpHic Egrets, Squacco and Black Herons, Mascarene Martins and Yellow-billed Kites. After a lunch stop in Ambositra we visited a small marsh near Ivato wHere we eventually found a couple of Madagascan Snipes along with Red Fodys, Madagascan Buzzard and Madagascan Swamp Warbler. We finally reached our comfortable base for tHe next tHree nigHts about an hour after dark. Red-tailed Vanga (tour participant Mike Galtry) Early tHe next morning we were birding around tHe entrance to Ranomafana NP and watcHing our first Rand’s Warbler, Madagascan Bulbuls, Drongos, Green Sunbirds and WHite-eyes. Blue Vangas showed very well Here, a couple of Madagascan Starlings flew over and a Blue Coua appeared. We spent tHe rest of tHe morning inside tHe forest where Grey-Headed and Spectacled Tetrakas quickly appeared and shortly afterwards tHe first of two fabulous Pitta-like Ground Rollers performed nicely. Pollen’s Vanga is a key species Here and we watched one putting tHe finishing touches to its nest. Our first lemurs, a small group of Red Browns, were also seen, as were stunning Velvet Asitys and our only Dark Newtonia. We eventually tracked down a much-wanted Brown Mesite wHich gave some great views courtesy of our energetic local guides. In tHe afternoon we birded along tHe road wHere several Ward’s Vangas showed very well along witH our first CHabert Vangas and a very showy Red-fronted Coua. An obliging Forest Rock THrush eventually appeared and just as it started to get dark we took up positions at a tree baited witH banana wHere a couple of tiny Rufous Mouse Lemurs showed at very close range. After enjoying a close encounter witH a roadside Madagascan Pygmy Kingfisher, we spent tHe next morning at Vohiparara NP. After a long Hike along tHe trails tHere we eventually Heard a Rufous-headed Ground Roller calling and managed to coax it in for a series of brief views as it repeatedly crossed tHe patH in front of us. FurtHer HigHligHts Here included a couple of Common Sunbird-Asitys, including a vivid male, and a surprisingly showy Madagascan Yellowbrow along witH furtHer Pitta-like Ground Rollers, Grey-crowned Tetrakas, Velvet Asity and otHers. THe mammal HigHligHt tHis morning was a close encounter witH a couple of striking Red- bellied Lemurs but a couple of Eastern Grey Bamboo Lemurs wHere also much appreciated. In tHe afternoon we drove to Amboditanemena and Hiked to tHe marsh tHere wHere we eventually found a few Grey Emutails. 2 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2019 www.birdquest -tours.com A fly-by Meller’s Duck was a great bonus before we departed, as was a showy Madagascan Starling at tHe roadside as we returned towards our Hotel. Pitta-like Ground Roller (Mike Galtry) Before departing tHe Ranomafana area we spent 90 minutes birding along tHe road witH HigHligHts including another obliging Madagascan Pygmy Kingfisher, Madagascan Cuckoo (much easier to Hear tHan see!) and Forest Fody. By late morning we were at Anja where we diverted to a small area of protected forest at tHe base of some impressively Huge granite outcrops. Ring-tailed Lemurs are tHe main attraction here, tHe first of many seen were on view witHin a couple of minutes of our arrival. Also in tHe area were our first Grey-headed Lovebirds, a couple of Madagascan Hoopoes and Madagascan Harrier Hawks plus some impressive Oustelet’s CHameleons. After a picnic lunch we continued westwards, later crossing the Horombe Plateau, wHere Madagascan Larks and Cisticolas were seen, before reaching tHe rugged sandstone landscape at Isalo where we ended tHe day watching a cooperative pair of ‘Benson’s’ Rock THrushes at tHe museum there just before sunset. We were out before sunrise in pursuit of tHe tricky Madagascan Partridge, finally seeing one in fligHt at tHe third location we searched. After breakfast we resumed our westward progress towards tHe coast at Tulear but stopped after 90 minutes and spent tHe rest of tHe morning birding at tHe excellent Zombitse NP, Home of tHe extremely localised Appert’s Tetraka, wHich showed very well after a short search. Zombitse hosts a large population of Cuckoo Rollers witH calling birds constantly audible until mid-morning and witH a few seen very well, botH perched and in tHeir spectacular display fligHts. Our only Giant Coua of tHe main tour was most welcome too along witH tHe likes of Rufous Vanga and a roosting White-browed Owl. THe mammal HigHligHt at Zombitse was undoubtedly a couple of inquisitive Verreaux’s Sifakas wHich even did a little dance for us. After lunch we continued westward, stopping at a site for Madagascan Sandgrouse along tHe way wHich produced good fligHt views of four birds. After dropping off our bags in Tulear we visited tHe nearby La Table area, Home of two very localised specialities, Verreaux’s Coua and tHe dapper Red-shouldered Vanga. Both of our targets were quickly found tHanks to the efforts of our excellent local guide, tHe famous Mosa. As icing on tHe cake we also saw our first Running and ‘Brown’ capped Couas before the light began to fade, the latter posing nicely in tHe scope for superb views. 3 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2019 www.birdquest -tours.com Cuckoo-Roller (Mike Galtry) After an early breakfast a short drive took us to tHe coast wHere we boarded zebu carts tHat transported us to a waiting boat and tHen set off towards tHe supposedly deserted, sacred island of Nosy Ve, now complete witH market stalls, wooden boardwalks and fisherman’s shelters! As our boat approached tHe island we were relieved to see a small group of much-wanted Crab Plovers were present along witH a few Greater and Lesser Crested Terns, Common Terns and Sanderlings but most surprising of all was a vagrant Sooty Gull, a species only recorded in Madagascar a couple of times previously. Moving to tHe nortH end of tHe island we waded ashore and were immediately enjoying wonderful views of many Red-tailed Tropicbirds coming and going from nests under scrubby bushes and, at least for now, seemingly untroubled by tHe burgeoning Human presence on tHeir island. We eventually set off to tHe nearby mainland at Anakao wHere a pair of Littoral Rock THrushes quickly appeared. After drinks our boat returned us to Tulear wHere 4x4’s were waiting to take us tHe short distance up tHe coast to Ifaty, two quick stops along tHe way giving us ‘Madagascan’ THree-banded Plovers and Madagascan Plovers to round off a very productive morning. After a bite to eat and a short rest at our beachfront lodgings we made a first visit to tHe nearby spiny forest reserve. It was still ratHer warm wHen we arrived but as tHe temperature began to subside tHe birds became more active and, tHanks to our Hard-working local guides, we enjoyed wonderful views of a pair of Long-tailed Ground Rollers, a perched Madagascan SparrowHawk and botH THamnornis Warbler and Archbold’s Newtonia. Back at tHe Hotel at least tHree Madagascan NigHtjars performed well in tHe fading ligHt. We were back at tHe spiny forest before sunrise and soon off in pursuit of our remaining targets tHere. Top priority was Subdesert Mesite and we were taken to see a bird sitting on its nest. FurtHer HigHligHts before tHe temperature rose and tHe birds fell silent were several ‘CHestnut-vented’ Crested Couas, Madagascan Buttonquails and Sickle-billed Vangas and, after a lengtHy search, tHe very localised Lafresnaye’s Vanga.