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Home , Madagascan cuckooshrike, Madagascan nightjar, Madagascan owl, Madagascan snipe, Madagascan sparrowhawk, Nuthatch vanga

Long-tailed Ground Roller (tour participant Rienk Nieuwland)

ULTIMATE MADAGASCAR

9 – 26/30 OCTOBER 2018

LEADER: CHRIS KEHOE

Our recent tour to the remarkable island of Madagascar saw us explore the rainforests of the east, the dry forests and wetlands of the north and the amazing spiny forests and coastlines of the west. Members of all of Madagascar’s endemic families were seen, including all five fabulous Ground Rollers, all three Mesites, three of Asity, the spectacular Cuckoo Roller and a host of , not least the incredible Helmet , and Malagasy Warblers. In addition, we saw all of the extant Coua species and many other wonderful such as Crab Plovers, Red-tailed Tropicbirds, Madagascan Ibises and Malagasy Sacred Ibises, Madagascan Harriers, White-browed and Madagascan , Madagascan and Collared and Madagascan Fish Eagles. Lemurs also features strongly on the tour and we had multiple encounters with the incomparable Indri, great to see and hear, plus the likes of Coquerel’s and Verreaux’s Sifakas, Brown lemurs, Woolly Lemurs, Bamboo Lemurs, dazzling Black-and-white Ruffed Lemurs, noisy Sportive Lemurs and diminutive Mouse and Dwarf Lemurs – not to mention the most iconic of them all, the delightful Ring-tailed Lemur. There is really nowhere else like Madagascar!

1 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Having gathered at a city hotel in Antananarivo the previous evening we made an early start for the all day journey south to our first base at Ranomafana, some seeing a Madagascan in the car park as we boarded the bus. As we travelled, and during brief stops, we encountered some of the commoner and more widespread species of Madagascar such as various herons and egrets and Yellow-billed Kites. More noteworthy were the likes of Malagasy Kestrels, Madagascan Stonechats, Red Fodys and Olive Bee-eaters while paddyfields behind our lunch stop at Ambositra held Malagasy Kingfishers, Squacco and Dimorphic Herons. A stop at a small marsh near Ivato gave us quite good views of up to three increasingly scarce Madagascan and a brief Madagascan Swamp Warbler and we eventually reached Ranomafana shortly after nightfall.

Rainforest Rock Thrush (Chris Kehoe)

Just after first light the next morning we were at the car park of Ranomafana NP, albeit in rather dank and wet weather. Despite the conditions several choice species were soon on view with a brief Madagascan Starling the pick of the bunch among several Madagascan Bulbuls and White-eyes and both Malagasy Green and Souimanga Sunbirds. As we entered the extensive trail system we were quite quickly face to face with a superb Velvet Asity, the first of three seen this morning while roving parties of Vangas included White- headed, Chabert, Blue and Tylas Vangas and a few Common Newtonias and Madagascan . Two fine Pitta-like Ground Rollers were much appreciated and a splendid Crossley’s Vanga was persuaded to show itself very well as it walked rail-like through the leaf litter. We also enjoyed fine views of the scarce Wedge-tailed Jery along with several Long-billed Bernierias and a furtive White-throated Oxylabes was seen quite well by most. As we returned towards the bus Nelicourvi Weavers showed well and some had brief views of a Madagascan Pygmy Kingfisher. After drying off and lunch we concentrated on the road above the park where the star find was an obliging Pollen’s Vanga but also seen where our first lemurs in the shape of several Red-fronted Brown Lemurs and the likes of Madagascan Mannikins, a brief Madagascan Cuckoo and, during a short break in the rain, a Madagascan Buzzard. As dusk descended we took up positions in an area where bananas are used as bait for mouse lemurs and enjoyed close views of a couple of Brown Mouse Lemurs before returning to the hotel to dry off once more.

Although still damp early the next morning it didn’t take too long to locate a smart Forest Rock Thrush for good views with Rand’s Warbler, Ward’s and Red-tailed Vangas also seen before we entered the forest at

2 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Vohiparara for a full day visit. Grey-crowned Tetrakas showed well here and our first Lesser Vasa Parrots were seen along with several previously seen species. Having spent a considerable time yesterday trying to track down Brown Mesites we embarked on a lengthy search when one was heard in the distance and eventually secured fantastic views, almost at touching distance. Blue Couas were also much appreciated as were a couple of Common Sunbird-Asitys and our first Red-tailed and Ward’s Vangas. Through a gap in the canopy we had some reasonable views of a couple of noisy Cuckoo Rollers displaying in the now blue sky but a calling Rufous-headed Ground Roller refused to show itself despite approaching closely. During our box lunch Madagascan Buzzards soared overhead before we returned to the trails where the highlights were a showy Madagascan Yellowbrow and a Dark though another calling Rufous-headed Ground Roller refused to show.

Ring-tailed Lemur (Chris Kehoe)

Before commencing the long drive west to Isalo we returned to Vohiparara for a short while where a very brief Madagascan Wood Rail was seen, some had glimpses of a typically elusive Brown Emutail and we had further encounters with a showy Madagascan Yellowbrow, Blue Coua and a smart Velvet Asity. After travelling for the rest of the morning we reached the small community reserve at Anja where, after a short walk, we enjoyed prolonged close encounters with many superb Ring-tailed Lemurs. As we ate our box lunches a couple of Black Swifts flew over, our first Madagascan Cisticolas were seen and a Peregrine joined a large kettle of Pied Crows. Continuing westward into an increasingly arid landscape we climbed onto the Horombe Plateau before descending to Isalo where we had just enough time to enjoy views of a pair of ‘Benson’s’ Rock Thrushes before the sun sank and we soon reached our comfortable hotel for a one night stay.

At first light the next morning we began a two-hour search for Madagascan Partridges near the hotel but found no joy, tall grasses having cloaked the area after the previous season’s heavy rains. After breakfast

3 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com we continued westwards towards Tulear but stopped after 90 minutes at the excellent Zombitse reserve where we remained for the rest of the morning. Our top priority here was the extremely localised Appert’s Tetraka and it didn’t take too long to find a couple of showy individuals. Our first perched Cuckoo Roller was also seen while many others displayed overhead. Another highlight was superb views of the magnificent Giant Coua. Roosting White-browed and ‘Torotoroka; Scops Owls were also seen along with our first and Madagascan Green Pigeon plus some splendid Verreaux’s Sifakas. We broke the journey to Tulear with a stop near a dry riverbed where a group of locals were employed to seek out Madagascan Sandgrouse which resulted in great flight views of up to 40 birds. Close to Tulear we diverted along a sand track into an area of coral rag scrub where we went in search of the famous Red-shouldered Vanga (a species only discovered in 1997) and were soon enjoying very close views of a male that sang away as it circled around us. Also seen here was a Running Coua, Subdesert Brush Warblers, several Namaqua Doves and Sakalava Weavers plus our first Madagascan Bushlarks but in rather windy conditions the hoped- for Verreaux’s Coua was not in the mood to perform.

Red-shouldered Vanga (Chris Kehoe)

Early the next morning we were aboard a boat and speeding south to Nosy Ve. As we approached this small uninhabited Island it was apparent that a small group of Crab Plovers were roosting at the northern end and we sailed close enough to have wonderful views of eight birds along with a few Lesser Crested Terns. Happy with this we motored to the south end of the island and waded ashore to enjoy the fine spectacle of up to 20 Red-tailed Tropicbirds, including juveniles and brooding adults in the shade of the scattered bushes. Having had our fill, we crossed to the nearby mainland where it took just a few minutes to locate a Littoral Rock Thrush and enjoy great views. After a refreshing drink we returned to Tulear and boarded the bus for the journey north to Ifaty. We made two stops along the way, first to watch ‘Madagascan’ Three-banded Plovers at the roadside and then to see a couple of rare Madagascan Plovers amongst several Kittlitz’s Plovers on the Ifaty salt flats where Caspian Tern was also added to our list. After lunch and a rest in the heat of the day at our beachfront hotel, where Madagascan Mannikins were a catch-up species for some, we paid our first visit the spectacular Spiny Forest a short distance inland. With the invaluable aid of a team of skilled local trackers we were soon savoring some of the wonderful specialities of the area. First up was a Subdesert Mesite atop its nest, soon followed by Madagascar Sparrowhawk, also attending a nest. The calls of Lafresnaye’s Vanga in the distance saw us hastening to the spot and having good views, during which time a

4 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com truly fantastic pair of Long-tailed Ground Roller was coaxed into the open for outstanding views. Also seen this evening were Hook-billed Vanga, Greater Vasa Parrots, a brief Thamnornis Warbler, Running Coua and others before we rounded off an excellent visit with fabulous close views of a pair of Madagascan Buttonquails before returning to our hotel where Madagascan Nightjars showed well at dusk to conclude a particularly action-packed day in fine style.

Crab Plovers, Common and Lesser-crested Terns (Chris Kehoe)

Spiny Forest (Rienk Nieuwland)

5 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com We were back in the Spiny Forest before sunrise the next morning with just a few remaining targets to search for. Many birds were singing from the tops of Didieria spikes with Stripe-throated particularly conspicuous and a showy Thamnornis Warbler offering an improvement on yesterday’s views. Our top priority was the subtly beautiful Archbold’s Newtonia and we quite quickly found a rather skittish bird, though we later had wonderful views of a much more obliging individual. Our first Crested Couas were also seen, here of the chestnut-vented form (a potential split) and we had good views of Madagascan Cuckoos, a species far more often heard than seen. Roosting Madagascan Nightjar and our first Madagascan Spinetails were also seen before we finally tracked down a smart Brown-capped’ Coua for good views. With the temperature rapidly rising we paid a return visit to the Ifaty salt flats were we were well rewarded with excellent views of a rare Humblot’s Heron and our first White-fronted Plovers before we retreating to our hotel to sit out the heat of the day. With no remaining major targets left in the area we returned to the spiny forest in the afternoon and after repeat views of several species made our way to an open, raised area overlooking the remarkable landscape of Baobabs and Didieria spikes where we scanned hopefully for Madagascan Harrier-Hawk and were eventually rewarded with a prolonged fly-by view.

Madagascan Buttonquail and Archbold’s Newtonia (Chris Kehoe)

We made an early start the next morning in to reach the Tulear area around first light in the hope of connecting with Verreaux’s Coua. All went nicely to plan and on arrival at the site a Coua duly popped up and showed well for ages in the thankfully still conditions. We then backtracked to a series of lakes on the opposite side of Tulear where we added various wetland birds to our list that included a flying Baillon’s Crake and a local rarity in the shape of a Wood as well as Madagascan Swamp Warblers that were new for most. After an early lunch in Tulear we proceeded to the airport where our flight to Tana, via Fort Dauphin, was pretty much on time. Once in Tana we drove to Perinet where we arrived shortly before midnight, tired after a long day but in position for some more rainforest birding in the morning.

Although Mantadia NP was our destination the next morning we began by visiting the days roosts of both Rainforest Scops and Madagascan Owl close to our hotel and enjoyed good views of both along with a fabulous Madagascan Pygmy Kingfisher and singing Rand’s Warblers while a couple of Vangas nearby were a good bonus as they were ultimately the only ones we saw. Once at Mantadia we headed out onto the trails where our top target, the amazing but rather elusive Scaly Ground Roller was eventually tracked down and a pair gave a series of good views with two Pitta-like Ground rollers also seen. Nearby a gathering of lemurs included three top class species in the shape of Indris, Diademed Sifakas and Black- and-white Ruffed Lemurs all in very close proximity. At a small forest pool we watched a family group of

6 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Madagascan Little Grebes as several Madagascan Spinetails soared overhead but there was no sign of any Meller’s Ducks today. After lunch we returned towards Perinet and visited the VOI reserve where a Red- fronted Coua was the highlight. It eventually began to rain and we retreated to our hotel with plans for a night walk but the rain, and then hail, continued and we postponed that plan for another day.

Pitta-like Ground Roller (Chris Kehoe)

Madagascan Pygmy Kingfisher and Madagascan Owl (Chris Kehoe)

7 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com After an early breakfast we were on our way to the Antovolobe Reserve where a nesting was our target, though we were somewhat anxious in case the storm of the last evening had caused any difficulties for the incubating bird! . After a long and bumpy ride, we reached a trailhead and began the long walk into the reserve. A few birds along the way included Dark Newtonias and several dapper Forest Fodys. Eventually we descended into the thick forest and crossed several streams until we reached a point where we were very relieved to see a marvelous Helmet Vanga atop its mossy nest in a tree fork. After watching this amazing bird for as long as we wished we went in pursuit of a calling Short-legged Ground Roller and, after further stream crossings and some scrambling up and down steep slopes we were face to face with our quarry which just sat and looked at us inquisitively. Several Tylas Vangas showed well as did up to eight Blue Couas either side of our box lunch, after which we began the long walk back to our waiting vehicles with our first Frances’s Sparrowhawk seen well along the way. It was late afternoon before we reached the Perinet area where we spent a while birding along the road with the highlight being a Madagascan Flufftail which was coaxed into scuttling across the path in front of us a couple of times.

Helmet Vanga (Reink Nieuwland) and Short-legged Ground Roller (Chris Kehoe)

We spent pretty much the whole of the next day in Perinet Special Reserve, directly adjacent to our hotel. We got off to a fine start when a group of Madagascan Wood Rails were found feeding in the open along a quiet track near the entrance gate. Our luck was certainly in this morning because not far away we found ourselves watching a notoriously skittish Madagascan Ibis that just sat still on the trail in front of us for as long as we wished while two others fed nearby. Next up was a fabulous Collared Nightjar roosting in leaf littler below a pandanus and showing extremely well. Red-breasted Coua was rather less cooperative and despite a lengthy herding operation by our hard-working team of guides just showed rather briefly as it finally escaped, though another Red-fronted Coua and several Blue Couas showed well. Mixed flocks of Vangas included the likes of Red-tailed and the sumptuous Blue and a group of Spectacles Tetrakas, a species that had been unusually scarce up until now showed well. Lemurs this morning included further Indris, some very cooperative Brown Lemurs and our first Eastern Lesser Bamboo Lemurs before a fabulous morning was topped of with sensational views of a gorgeous Rufous-headed Ground Roller, though it took us a long time to connect with this most elusive member of the family as it came and went several times, showing briefly to some before disappearing again. before finally settling down and sitting in full view, at very close range, for several minutes. After lunch we hiked up to a high ridge where we hoped to find Henst’s Goshawk in the vicinity of the previous year’s nest site but in the end just some of the group had a few brief views, mostly in flight before a huge thunderstorm commenced and we retreated to the hotel to get dried off. Later in the

8 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com evening some had brief views of a White-throated Rail at the hotel before we set off on a night walk near there with several each of Grey-brown Mouse Lemurs and Furry-eared Dwarf Lemurs in the spotlight.

Rufous-headed Ground Roller (Chris Kehoe)

Brown Lemur and Madagascan Ibis (Chris Kehoe)

We returned to Mantadia the next morning with a stop along the way to admire a couple of Madagascan Starlings that were new for most. Once at Mantadia we returned to the forest pool in the hope that Meller’s Ducks might be there today but none were present so we set off towards another pool before word reached us it had recently been filled in !. Returning back towards the first pool, a single Meller’s Duck was seen in

9 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com flight dropping down towards the pool and was eventually seen well. We spent quite a while scanning the sky in the hope a Henst’s Goshawk might appear but instead saw a few Madagascan Buzzards, a pair of Madagascan Harrier-Hawks and a couple of Alpine Swifts while Cuckoo Rollers showed very well in flight and perched, as did several Greater Vasa Parrots. Along the forest trails it was rather quiet bird wise, though Long-billed Bernierias and other showed well and we had further splendid views of Indris, Black-and-white Ruffed Lemurs and Diademed Sifakas. After lunch we returned towards Perinet and stopped near Mantadia gate where a Madagascar Rail was eventually coaxed into view, both Mascarene and Brown-throated Martins buzzed about and some saw a Little Bittern in flight. We spent the remainder of the evening along the road near Perinet in search for Madagascan Blue Pigeons, a species that was unusually scarce this year, and which had previously been seen briefly by just a few. Once again the pigeons were elusive with just a fleeting view of one bird for some though we did see a couple of White-throated Rails, three Madagascan Green Pigeons and several Madagascan Black Swifts.

Madagascan Blue Pigeon was our top priority the next morning so we returned to the area where we had previously had several brief sightings and before long finally tracked down the fruiting tree the birds were using and had prolonged views of three birds feeding quietly in the canopy. At the nearby orchid garden we watched Spectacled Tetrakas and had great views of Blue Vangas and Blue Couas along with a memorable encounter with a Brown Lemur that walked right past us and showed at incredibly close range. After final looks at the Madagascan Owl and a few other bits and pieces we returned to the hotel to check-out and had an early lunch before beginning the return journey to Tana. We made a stop at the Mangoro River crossing where three Madagascan Pratincoles showed well in the scope before continuing to Tana for an overnight stay. Before reaching our hotel though we had time for a 90-minute visit to Lac Alarobia in the centre of town which is home to a large heronry among which we picked out a couple of scarce Madagascan Pond Herons amidst the many Squacco and Black Herons, Dimorphic Egrets and others. Large numbers of Red-billed Teals and White-faced Whistling Ducks loafed around the lakes and we found a couple of Meller’s Ducks and Hottentot Teal along with two Knob-billed Ducks while a White-throated Rail showed very well in a small ditch.

Traditional Central Plateau houses (Rienk Nieuwland)

Much of the next day was spent on the long drive north from Tana to Ampijoroa, albeit through a spectacular central plateau landscape and with the added bonus of a pair of Madagascan Harriers along the way. We reached Ampijoroa in the early evening, in time to enjoy the numerous birds around the parking area that included many Broad-billed Rollers, Madagascan Hoopoes, Lesser Vasa Parrots, Sickle-billed and Chabert

10 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Vangas and a Malagasy Green Sunbird but it was lemurs that stole the show when a large troupe of Coquerel’s Sifakas appeared and put on a wonderful show of leaping, bouncing and jousting with one another. During dinner some of the noisy Milne-Edwards’s Sportive Lemurs around the restaurant gave good spotlight views

Madagascan Fish Eagle and Coquerel’s Sifakas (Chris Kehoe)

We drove north to the port of Majunga the next morning with a couple of short stops to scan unsuccessfully for Madagascan Jacanas along the way. Once at Majunga we were surprised to see a few House Sparrows at a dripping tap, a recent colonist of the area, before boarding a speedboat and heading off towards the Betsiboka Estuary where we arrived about an hour later. It didn’t take too long to find our first Madagascan Sacred Ibises here but despite an extended search there was no sign of any of the hoped-for Bernier’s Teals today, a species that has become somewhat erratic in it appearances in accessible parts of the estuary, perhaps a result of human settlement in the area. We did though see a single Saunders’s Tern, many Greater Sandplovers and a few Terek plus lots of dark morph Dimorphic Egrets before finally heading back to Majunga for lunch. By early evening we were back at Ampijoroa and setting off in a small boat that took us around Lac Ravelobe. The undoubted highlight here was a pair of fabulous Madagascan Fish Eagles along with their recently fledged youngster, the first raised here for many years. Other highlights included very close views of a Humblot’s Heron and numerous commoner waterbirds. At dusk we drove a short distance to a sandy track where a night walk gave us some great views of Western Fat-tailed Dwarf Lemurs and Grey Mouse Lemurs along with a number of chameleons including the widespread and common Oustelet’s Chameleon and the scarcer Rhinoceros Chameleon.

After a pre-dawn breakfast we entered an area of dry forest to the north of Lac Ravelobe around first light. The key bird here is the amazing Schlegel’s Asity but before reaching the prime area for that we were distracted by both a Coquerel’s Coua and a pair of White-breasted Mesites, both of which showed nicely. The Asitys were in a cooperative mood this morning and we soon had absolutely fabulous views of a pair in bare branches right above our heads. Happy with this we returned to the bus and drove back to the park HQ where we set off on a trail system through a different area of dry forest. After a little while our first Red- capped Couas appeared on the trail ahead and showed very well, the first of six seen this morning along

11 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com with another Coquerel’s Coua, our first Crested Couas and another White-breasted Mesite. We then embarked on a lengthy and often frustrating search for Van Dam’s Vanga with just a few people getting fleeting glimpses of an extremely secretive, mobile and quiet bird, though we did have some fine views of the likes of Madagascan Buttonquails, Rufous and Blue Vangas and a couple of unexpected Madagascan Ibises in the process. Eventually it became so hot that bird activity died right down so we returned to the restaurant for welcome cold drinks and lunch. In the afternoon we drove south to Ambodromamy where roadside wetlands held a couple of hoped-for Madagascan Jacanas, several African Pygmy Geese and a few other bits and pieces.

Red-capped and Coquerel’s Couas (Chris Kehoe)

Malagasy Harrier (Chris Kehoe)

12 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Before beginning the long return journey to Tana we had a few hours to spare in order to try once more for the elusive Van Dam’s Vanga. In the event it was very much a repeat of yesterday’s frustrations with some having brief glimpses of a highly mobile individual until, right at (in fact a little beyond) the eleventh hour a bird finally sat up very nicely and gave great views. The journey to Tana was enlivened by a quick stop at the Betsiboka River, where Madagascan Pratincoles put on a nice show, and, closer to Tana, a very obliging Malagasy Harrier was at the roadside. Once at our hotel in Tana we had a final group dinner together and those departing at the end of the main tour managed a few hours of sleep before transferring to the airport.

Our Southeast Madagascar extension began at Tana Airport where a flight to Fort Dauphin was on time and delivered us there in time for lunch. In the afternoon we visited a nearby headland where it didn’t take too long to see the first of several Madagascan Kelp Gulls winging their way along the cliffs. Scanning out to sea gave us fine views of several Humpbacked Whales, some with calves, which put on a fine show of tail waving and breaching.

Fort Dauphin headland (Chris Kehoe)

Our destination the next morning was Andohehela NP, necessitating an early start and a long 4x4 journey before walking into the park in search of the rare and extremely localised Red-tailed Newtonia. Low water levels in the rivers made for easy crossing via stepping stones and we reached the best area for the Newtonia quite quickly. It then took quite a lengthy search before we finally encountered a responsive individual which eventually gave prolonged good views as it moved about the canopy. Apart from a few Tylas Vangas it was rather quiet so we made our way back to the vehicles and returned to the main road where a bus was waiting to take us to Berenty, in steady rain, for an overnight stay. Once at Berenty it was a matter of only minutes before we were watching numerous Verreaux’s Sifakas dancing across the parking area as even more Ring-tailed Lemurs loafed near our rooms. Further highlights this evening were Giant Couas and a showy Hook-billed Vanga.

It was rather damp and dull the next morning but we were soon in the forest and enjoying views of a pair of White-browed Owls, Giant Couas and others. We were particularly hoping for Madagascan Cuckoo-Hawk today but with no active nest known it was always going to be a challenge. We visited an area where a nest had been in use the previous season and stared for a while at the pile of sticks high in a tree before

13 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com gradually realising that what looked like a tail sticking out actually was a tail. Over the next hour or so the bird showed its head occasionally and eventually its mate appeared and perched right above us, albeit briefly. We sat out a period of heavier rain at the restaurant where groups of Ring-tailed Lemurs and Verreaux’s Sifakas came and went and there was quite a flurry of bird activity as the rain eased that included close views of several Crested Couas. We visited a large roost gathering of Madagascan Flying Foxes then spent the rest of the day enjoying close views of many previously seen species such as Sakalava Weavers, Madagascan Paradise Flycatchers, Crested Drongos and, best of all, a very showy Frances’s Sparrowhawk. At dusk, a night walk in the nearby spiny forest gave us several Grey-brown Mouse Lemurs, a couple of White-footed Sportive Lemurs and both Torotoroka Scops and White-browed Owls.

Verreaux’s Sifaka (Chris Kehoe)

A final couple of hours at Berenty was enjoyable but, not unexpectedly nothing new was found before we began the return journey to Fort Dauphin. After lunch there we made a short return visit to the headland driving to the airport. Our flight to Tana was punctual and we had time for a leisurely dinner and final packing before travelling to the airport where the tour ended.

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Blue Vanga (Chris Kehoe)

Giant Coua (Chris Kehoe)

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Helmet Vanga (Chris Kehoe)

Indri (Chris Kehoe)

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Brown Mesite (Chris Kehoe)

SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES RECORDED DURING THE TOUR

The species names and used in the report mostly follows Gill, F & D Donsker (Eds). IOC World Bird Names. This list is updated several times annually and is available at http://www.worldbirdnames.org.

Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were only recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (LO). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL).

Species marked with the diamond symbol (◊) are either endemic to the country or local region or considered ‘special’ birds for some other reason (e.g. it is only seen on one or two Birdquest tours; it is difficult to see across all or most of its range; the local form is endemic or restricted-range and may in future be treated as a full species).

BIRDS Number of species recorded: 181 White-faced Whistling Duck Dendrocygna viduata About 400 at Lac Alarobia and 20 near Tulear. Knob-billed Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos Two at Lac Alarobia African Pygmy Goose* Nettapus auritus Up to 25 on wetlands south of Ampijoroa. Hottentot Teal Spatula hottentota Twenty near Tulear and a handful at Lac Alarobia. Meller's Duck ◊ Anas melleri One at Mantadia and 2 at Lac Alarobia. Red-billed Teal Anas erythrorhyncha Up to 500 at Lac Alarobia with smaller numbers at a few other wetlands. Helmeted Guineafowl (introduced) Numida meleagris A few as we travelled and at Berenty. Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis About 20 near Tulear. Madagascan Grebe ◊ Tachybaptus pelzelnii A pair with three young at Mantadia. Red-tailed Tropicbird ◊ Phaethon rubricauda Fantastic views of about 20 on Nosy Ve. Malagasy Sacred Ibis ◊ Threskiornis bernieri Five at the Betsiboka estuary. Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus About 20 north of Ampijoroa. Madagascan Ibis ◊ (M Crested I) Lophotibis cristata Wonderful views of a couple at Perinet.

17 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus One in flight near Mantadia gate. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax About 20 at Lac Alarobia and a couple elsewhere. Striated Heron Butorides striata Ones and twos on 12 dates.

Madagascan Grebes and Meller’s Duck (Chris Kehoe)

Red-tailed Tropicbird (Chris Kehoe)

Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides About 300 breeding at Lac Alarobia with smaller numbers elsewhere. Malagasy Pond Heron ◊ (Madagascar P H) Ardeola idea Two at Lac Alarobia. Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Noted on 12 dates. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea One at Tulear. Humblot's Heron ◊ Ardea humbloti Singles at Ifaty and Lac Ravelobe. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea Noted on nine dates. Great Egret Ardea alba Noted on nine dates. Black Heron Egretta ardesiaca About 30 at Lac Alarobia and near Ampijoroa with smaller numbers elsewhere. Dimorphic Egret ◊ Egretta dimorpha Up to 500 at Lac Alarobia with smaller numbers on 11 dates. Hamerkop Scopus umbretta Seen on five dates as we travelled. Reed Cormorant* (Long-tailed C) Microcarbo africanus One at Mantadia. Madagascan Harrier-Hawk ◊ Polyboroides radiatus One at Ifaty and two at Mantadia.

18 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Madagascan Cuckoo-Hawk ◊ Aviceda madagascariensis A nesting pair at Berenty.

Humblot’s Heron (Chris Kehoe)

Frances's Sparrowhawk ◊ francesiae One at Antovolobe and two at Berenty. Madagascan Sparrowhawk ◊ Accipiter madagascariensis One at Ifaty.

Frances’s Sparrowhawk and Madagascan Sparrowhawk (Chris Kehoe)

Henst's Goshawk ◊ Accipiter henstii Two singles at Perinet.

19 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Malagasy Harrier ◊ Circus macrosceles Three north of Tana. Yellow-billed Kite Milvus aegyptius Widespread, especially in drier country. Madagascan Fish Eagle ◊ Haliaeetus vociferoides Three, including a juvenile, at Ampijoroa. Madagascan Buzzard ◊ Buteo brachypterus Noted on six dates at widespread sites. White-breasted Mesite ◊ Mesitornis variegatus Three at Ampijoroa, others heard there. Brown Mesite ◊ Mesitornis unicolor Fantastic views of a male at Vohiparara. Subdesert Mesite ◊ Monias benschi One on its nest at Ifaty.

Subdesert Mesite (Chris Kehoe)

Madagscan Wood Rail and Madagascan Plover (Chris Kehoe)

Madagascan Wood Rail ◊ Canirallus kioloides One at Vohiparara and fabulous views of four at Perinet Madagascan Flufftail ◊ Sarothrura insularis Singles seen twice at Perinet, others heard. Madagascan Rail ◊ Rallus madagascariensis Rather brief views near Mantadia gate. White-throated Rail ◊ Dryolimnas cuvieri Great views at Lac Alarobia and brief views at Perinet. Baillon’s Crake Porzana pusilla One at Tulear Lakes. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Small numbers on eight dates.

20 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Madagascan Buttonquail ◊ Turnix nigricollis Fantastic views of a pair at Ifaty. Crab-plover Dromas ardeola Eight on Nosy Ve, always a highlight when present ! Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Small numbers in the west. Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula A few in the west. Madagascan Plover ◊ Charadrius thoracicus Two at Ifaty salt flats. Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius Several at Ifaty and near Tulear. Three-banded Plover ◊ (Madagascar T-b P) Charadrius [tricollaris] bifrontatus Two near Ifaty. White-fronted Plover Charadrius marginatus Two near Ifaty. Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii About 50 at the Betsiboka estuary. Madagascan Jacana ◊ Actophilornis albinucha Two at Ambodromamy. Whimbrel (Eurasian W) Numenius [phaeopus] phaeopus About 30 at the Betsiboka estuary, a couple in the west Ruddy Arenaria interpres About 20 in the west. Sandpiper ferruginea Noted at the Betsiboka estuary and in the west. Sanderling Calidris alba Four on Nosy Ve. Madagascan Snipe ◊ macrodactyla Two or three near Ivato. Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus Three at the Betsiboka estuary. Common Sandpiper hypoleucos A handful on three dates.

Malagasy Turtle Dove and Madagascan Blue Pigeon (Chris Kehoe)

Wood Sandpiper*** glareola One at Tulear Lakes. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia About 10 near Ifaty and at Tulear. Madagascan Pratincole ◊ Glareola ocularis A few at the Mangoro and Betsiboka river crossings. Kelp Gull ◊ (Madagascan G) Larus [dominicanus] melisandae Up to 10 at Fort Dauphin. Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia One near Ifaty. Lesser Crested Tern Thalasseus bengalensis About 30 on Nosy Ve. Saunders's Tern ◊ Sternula saundersi One at the Betsiboka estuary. Common Tern Sterna hirundo One at Nosy Ve. Madagascan Sandgrouse ◊ Pterocles personatus About 50 in flight between Zombitse and Tulear. Rock Dove (introduced) (Feral Pigeon) Columba livia Noted in some towns. Malagasy Turtle Dove ◊ Nesoenas picturatus Noted on 11 dates. Namaqua Dove Oena capensis Common in arid country. Madagascan Green Pigeon ◊ Treron australis Small numbers on four dates after the first at Zombitse. Madagascan Blue Pigeon ◊ Alectroenas madagascariensis A handful at Perinet and Andohehela, scarce this year. Malagasy Coucal ◊ Centropus toulou Seen on 11 dates and heard on others. Crested Coua ◊ Coua cristata Several at Ampijoroa.

21 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Crested Coua ◊ (Chestnut-vented C) Coua [cristata] pyropyga Two at Ifaty and several at Berenty. Verreaux's Coua ◊ Coua verreauxi One near Tulear at the second attempt.

Verreaux’s Coua and Running Coua (Chris Kehoe)

Blue Coua ◊ Coua caerulea Noted at Vohiparara. Red-capped Coua ◊ Coua [ruficeps] ruficeps Two at Ifaty Red-capped Coua ◊ (Brown-capped C) Coua [ruficeps] olivaceiceps About 10 at Ampijoroa. Red-fronted Coua ◊ Coua reynaudii Good views near Vohiparara and a couple at Perinet. Coquerel's Coua ◊ Coua coquereli Three at Ampijoroa.

22 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Running Coua ◊ Coua cursor Four at Ifaty and one near Tulear. Giant Coua ◊ Coua gigas Three at Zombitse and four at Berenty. Red-breasted Coua ◊ Coua serriana One at Perinet. Madagascan Cuckoo ◊ Cuculus rochii Heard frequently and seen particularly well at Ifaty.

Rainforest Scops Owl and White-browed Owl (Chris Kehoe)

Collared Nightjar (Chris Kehoe)

23 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Torotoroka Scops Owl ◊ Otus madagascariensis Singles at Zombitse and Berenty, others heard. Rainforest Scops Owl ◊ Otus rutilus A roosting birds at Perinet, others heard there. White-browed Owl ◊ Athene superciliaris Two at both Zombitse and Berenty. Madagascan Owl* ◊ (M Long-eared O) madagascariensis One roosting at Perinet on three dates. Collared Nightjar ◊ Gactornis enarratus Excellent views at Perinet. Madagascan Nightjar ◊ madagascariensis Often heard and seen on six dates, including at roost. Madagascan Spinetail ◊ Zoonavena grandidieri Several at Mantadia and one at Berenty. African Palm Swift Cypsiurus parvus Noted on ten dates at widespread sites. Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba Two at Mantadia and two more north of Tana. Malagasy Black Swift ◊ Apus balstoni A handful near Ranomafana.

Cuckoo Roller and Madagascan Hoopoe (Chris Kehoe)

Little Swift Apus affinis A few at Tana airport on two dates. Cuckoo Roller ◊ Leptosomus discolor Noted on eight dates after the first at Vohiparara. Broad-billed Roller Eurystomus glaucurus Noted on 10 dates, particularly prominent at Ampijoroa. Short-legged Ground Roller ◊ Brachypteracias leptosomus Splendid views of one at Antovolobe. Scaly Ground Roller ◊ Geobiastes squamiger Two at Mantadia, always a highlight. Pitta-like Ground Roller ◊ Atelornis pittoides Two at Ranomafana and two more at Perinet. Rufous-headed Ground Roller ◊ Atelornis crossleyi Outstanding views at Perinet after much searching. Long-tailed Ground Roller ◊ Uratelornis chimaera Perfect views of two in the spiny forest at Ifaty. Madagascan Pygmy Kingfisher ◊ Corythornis madagascariensis Noted on five dates at rainforest sites. Malagasy Kingfisher ◊ (Madagascar Malachite K) Corythornis vintsioides Ones and twos at most wetland sites. Olive Bee-eater (Madagascar B) Merops superciliosus Seen most days, especially in drier country. Madagascan Hoopoe ◊ Upupa marginata Seen on seven dates in more arid areas. Malagasy Kestrel ◊ Falco newtoni Noted most days, generally in open country. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus Singles over Anja and at Tulear lakes. Greater Vasa Parrot ◊ Coracopsis vasa Noted on six dates after the first at Ifaty. Lesser Vasa Parrot ◊ Coracopsis nigra Noted on five dates after the first at Vohiparara. Grey-headed Lovebird ◊ Agapornis canus Common and conspicuous at Berenty with a few elsewhere.

24 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Velvet Asity ◊ Philepitta castanea Five at Ranomafana and Vohiparara including some smart males. Schlegel's Asity ◊ Philepitta schlegeli Wonderful views of a pair at Ampijoroa.

Schlegel's Asity (Chris Kehoe)

Common Sunbird-Asity ◊ Neodrepanis coruscans A couple at Vohiparara and one at Antovolobe. Red-tailed Vanga ◊ madagascariensis Seen on three dates after the first at Vohiparara, others heard Red-shouldered Vanga ◊ Calicalicus rufocarpalis A cooperative male at Tulear tablelands. Hook-billed Vanga ◊ Vanga curvirostris Seen well at Ifaty, where nesting, Perinet and Berenty. Lafresnaye's Vanga ◊ xenopirostris Good views of one at Ifaty. Van Dam's Vanga ◊ Xenopirostris damii Eventual great views at Ampijoroa after lengthy searches. Pollen's Vanga ◊ Xenopirostris polleni Great views along the road above Ranomafana. Sickle-billed Vanga ◊ Falculea palliata Noted at Ifaty and Ampijoroa with eight in total, always a highlight. White-headed Vanga ◊ Artamella viridis A handful at Ranomafana, Ifaty, Perinet and Berenty. ◊ Leptopterus chabert Noted on 11 dates after the first at Ranomafana. ◊ Cyanolanius madagascarinus Seen on six dates, some excellent views. Rufous Vanga ◊ Schetba rufa Four at Zombitse and 10 or more at Ampijoroa. Helmet Vanga ◊ Euryceros prevostii An incubating bird at Antovolobe was our Bird of the Trip. ◊ Tylas eduardi Several at Ranomafana with others near Perinet and at Andohehela. ◊ Hypositta corallirostris A couple near Perinet. Dark Newtonia ◊ Newtonia amphichroa One at Vohiparara and three at Antovolobe. ◊ Newtonia brunneicauda Common and widespread in wooded contexts. Archbold's Newtonia ◊ Newtonia archboldi Great views of a couple at Ifaty. Red-tailed Newtonia ◊ Newtonia fanovanae One at Andohehela took a bit of finding but showed well. Ward's Flycatcher ◊ Pseudobias wardi Noted on five dates after the first at Ranomafana. Crossley's Vanga ◊ Mystacornis crossleyi Excellent views of one at Ranomafana. Madagascan ◊ cinereus Noted on nine dates with others heard. Crested Drongo Dicrurus forficatus Widespread, seen almost daily in good numbers. Malagasy Paradise Flycatcher ◊ Terpsiphone mutata Seen most days, especially common at Berenty. Pied Crow Corvus albus Widespread in drier country.

25 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Madagascan Lark ◊ Eremopterix hova Seen on eight dates in drier country. ◊ Hypsipetes madagascariensis Common and widespread.

Hook-billed Vanga (and Oustelet’s Chameleon) and Sickle-billed Vanga (Chris Kehoe)

Mascarene Martin ◊ Phedina borbonica Occasional encounters, conspicuous at Tana airport. Brown-throated Martin (Plain M) Riparia paludicola Noted near Tana and at Mantadia gate.

Madagascan Yellowbrow and Red-tailed Newtonia (Chris Kehoe)

Malagasy Brush Warbler ◊ Nesillas typica Widespread away from drier areas, more heard than seen. Subdesert Brush Warbler ◊ Nesillas lantzii Several in the arid west. Madagascan Swamp Warbler ◊ Acrocephalus newtoni Noted near Ivato, at Tulear lakes and Mantadia. Brown Emutail* ◊ Bradypterus brunneus Brief views for some at Vohiparara.

26 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com White-throated Oxylabes Oxylabes madagascariensis One at Ranomafana and a couple at Perinet.. Long-billed Bernieria Bernieria madagascariensis Noted at Ranomafana/Vohiparara, Perinet and Ampijoroa. Wedge-tailed Jery ◊ Hartertula flavoviridis Three at Ranomafana. Thamnornis ◊ (T Warbler) Thamnornis chloropetoides Good views of a few at Ifaty. Spectacled Tetraka ◊ Xanthomixis zosterops Small numbers on just three dates, oddly scarce. Appert's Tetraka ◊ (A Greenbul) Xanthomixis apperti Great views of two at Zombitse. Grey-crowned Tetraka (G-c Greenbul) Xanthomixis cinereiceps Six at Vohiparara.

Appert’s Tetraka (Chris Kehoe)

Madagascan Yellowbrow ◊ Crossleyia xanthophrys Better than usual views of two at Vohiparara. Rand's Warbler ◊ Randia pseudozosterops Four seen and others heard at Perinet and Ranomafana. Common Jery ◊ Neomixis tenella Seen on seven dates with several more heard. Green Jery ◊ Neomixis viridis Small numbers at Ranomafana and Perinet. Stripe-throated Jery ◊ Neomixis striatigula Common at Ifaty with several elsewhere. Madagascan Cisticola ◊ Cisticola cherina Fairly numerous in drier country. Malagasy White-eye ◊ Zosterops maderaspatanus Seen on seven dates after the first at Ranomafana, Common Myna (introduced) Acridotheres tristis Widespread, sometimes common. Madagascan Starling ◊ Hartlaubius auratus One at Ranomafana and five at Mantadia/Perinet. Madagascan Magpie-Robin ◊ Copsychus albospecularis Widespread, seen on 10 dates. Littoral Rock Thrush ◊ Monticola imerina A male at Anakao. Forest Rock Thrush ◊ Monticola sharpei Good views near Vohiparara. Forest Rock Thrush ◊ (Benson's R T) Monticola [sharpei] bensoni A pair at Isalo. Madagascan Stonechat ◊ Saxicola sibilla Just six in the dry highlands. Souimanga Sunbird ◊ Cinnyris sovimanga Seen almost daily, especially prominent at Ampijoroa. Malagasy Green Sunbird ◊ (Long-billed G S) Cinnyris notatus Noted on six dates after the first at Ranomafana. House Sparrow (introduced) Passer domesticus Five at Majunga, a recent colonist there. Nelicourvi Weaver ◊ Ploceus nelicourvi Seen on six dates in rainforest areas. Sakalava Weaver ◊ Ploceus sakalava Common in the arid west, breeding at Ifaty and Berenty. Red Fody ◊ Foudia madagascariensis Noted on 15 dates at widespread sites. Forest Fody ◊ Foudia omissa Eight at Antovolobe, heard at Vohiparara. Madagascan Mannikin ◊ (M Bibfinch) Lepidopygia nana Seen on four dates after the first at Ranomafana. Madagascan Wagtail ◊ Motacilla flaviventris Noted on 11 dates in highland areas.

27 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com MAMMALS Number of species recorded: 20 Brown Lemur Eulemur fulvus Several close encounters at Perinet and Mantadia. Red-bellied Lemur Eulemur rubriventer Two at Vohiparara. Red Brown Lemur Eulemur rufus Seven in total at and near Vohiparara. Eastern Lesser Bamboo Lemur (Grey B L) Hapalemur griseus A handful at Mantadia on two dates. Ring-tailed Lemur Lemur catta Numerous and tame at Anja and Berenty. Black-and-white Ruffed Lemur Varecia variegata Excellent views at Mantadia.

Milne-Edwards’s Sportive Lemur (Chris Kehoe) and Grey-brown (Reink Nieuwland)

Milne-Edwards's Sportive Lemur Lepilemur edwardsi Small numbers at Ampijoroa. White-footed Sportive Lemur Lepilemur leucopus Two at Berenty. Furry-eared Dwarf Lemur* Cheirogaleus crossleyi Three at Perinet during a night walk are presumed this species. Western Fat-tailed Dwarf Lemur Cheirogaleus medius Two near Ampijoroa during a night walk. Grey-brown Mouse Lemur (Reddish-grey M L) Microcebus griseorufus About six at Berenty. Brown Mouse Lemur Microcebus rufus Two at Ranomafana at dusk. Grey Mouse-lemur Microcebus murinus Up to six near Ampijoroa. Lorenz Von Liburnau's Woolly Lemur (Western Avahi) Avahi occidentalis Two at Ampijoroa. Indri Indri indri Fantastic views at Perinet and Mantadia. Coquerel's Sifaka Propithecus coquereli Up to 20 at Ampijoroa put on a wonderful show. Diademed Sifaka Propithecus diadema Up to six at Mantadia. Verreaux's Sifaka Propithecus verreauxi Ten at Zombitse and numerous, and ‘dancing’, at Berenty. Eastern Red Forest Rat Nesomys rufus Six in total at Ranomafana and Vohiparara. Humpback Whale Megaptera novaeangliae At least 15 off Fort Dauphin, several breaching. Madagascan Flying Fox Pteropus rufus A large roost at Berenty.

28 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com

Indri (Rienk Nieuwland)

Birdquesters at Tulear (Chris Kehoe)

29 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com