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Ultimate Madagascar

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Long-tailed Ground Roller (tour participant Rienk Nieuwland) ULTIMATE MADAGASCAR 9 – 26/30 OCTOBER 2018 LEADER: CHRIS KEHOE Our recent tour to the remarkable island of Madagascar saw us explore the rainforests of the east, the dry forests and wetlands of the north and the amazing spiny forests and coastlines of the west. Members of all of Madagascar’s endemic bird families were seen, including all five fabulous Ground Rollers, all three Mesites, three species of Asity, the spectacular Cuckoo Roller and a host of Vangas, not least the incredible Helmet Vanga, and Malagasy Warblers. In addition, we saw all of the extant Coua species and many other wonderful birds such as Crab Plovers, Red-tailed Tropicbirds, Madagascan Ibises and Malagasy Sacred Ibises, Madagascan Harriers, White-browed and Madagascan Owls, Madagascan and Collared Nightjars and Madagascan Fish Eagles. Lemurs also features strongly on the tour and we had multiple encounters with the incomparable Indri, great to see and hear, plus the likes of Coquerel’s and Verreaux’s Sifakas, Brown lemurs, Woolly Lemurs, Bamboo Lemurs, dazzling Black-and-white Ruffed Lemurs, noisy Sportive Lemurs and diminutive Mouse and Dwarf Lemurs – not to mention the most iconic of them all, the delightful Ring-tailed Lemur. There is really nowhere else like Madagascar! 1 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Having gathered at a city hotel in Antananarivo the previous evening we made an early start for the all day journey south to our first base at Ranomafana, some seeing a Madagascan Nightjar in the car park as we boarded the bus. As we travelled, and during brief stops, we encountered some of the commoner and more widespread species of Madagascar such as various herons and egrets and Yellow-billed Kites. More noteworthy were the likes of Malagasy Kestrels, Madagascan Stonechats, Red Fodys and Olive Bee-eaters while paddyfields behind our lunch stop at Ambositra held Malagasy Kingfishers, Squacco and Dimorphic Herons. A stop at a small marsh near Ivato gave us quite good views of up to three increasingly scarce Madagascan Snipe and a brief Madagascan Swamp Warbler and we eventually reached Ranomafana shortly after nightfall. Rainforest Rock Thrush (Chris Kehoe) Just after first light the next morning we were at the car park of Ranomafana NP, albeit in rather dank and wet weather. Despite the conditions several choice species were soon on view with a brief Madagascan Starling the pick of the bunch among several Madagascan Bulbuls and White-eyes and both Malagasy Green and Souimanga Sunbirds. As we entered the extensive trail system we were quite quickly face to face with a superb Velvet Asity, the first of three seen this morning while roving parties of Vangas included White- headed, Chabert, Blue and Tylas Vangas and a few Common Newtonias and Madagascan Cuckooshrikes. Two fine Pitta-like Ground Rollers were much appreciated and a splendid Crossley’s Vanga was persuaded to show itself very well as it walked rail-like through the leaf litter. We also enjoyed fine views of the scarce Wedge-tailed Jery along with several Long-billed Bernierias and a furtive White-throated Oxylabes was seen quite well by most. As we returned towards the bus Nelicourvi Weavers showed well and some had brief views of a Madagascan Pygmy Kingfisher. After drying off and lunch we concentrated on the road above the park where the star find was an obliging Pollen’s Vanga but also seen where our first lemurs in the shape of several Red-fronted Brown Lemurs and the likes of Madagascan Mannikins, a brief Madagascan Cuckoo and, during a short break in the rain, a Madagascan Buzzard. As dusk descended we took up positions in an area where bananas are used as bait for mouse lemurs and enjoyed close views of a couple of Brown Mouse Lemurs before returning to the hotel to dry off once more. Although still damp early the next morning it didn’t take too long to locate a smart Forest Rock Thrush for good views with Rand’s Warbler, Ward’s and Red-tailed Vangas also seen before we entered the forest at 2 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com Vohiparara for a full day visit. Grey-crowned Tetrakas showed well here and our first Lesser Vasa Parrots were seen along with several previously seen species. Having spent a considerable time yesterday trying to track down Brown Mesites we embarked on a lengthy search when one was heard in the distance and eventually secured fantastic views, almost at touching distance. Blue Couas were also much appreciated as were a couple of Common Sunbird-Asitys and our first Red-tailed and Ward’s Vangas. Through a gap in the canopy we had some reasonable views of a couple of noisy Cuckoo Rollers displaying in the now blue sky but a calling Rufous-headed Ground Roller refused to show itself despite approaching closely. During our box lunch Madagascan Buzzards soared overhead before we returned to the trails where the highlights were a showy Madagascan Yellowbrow and a Dark Newtonia though another calling Rufous-headed Ground Roller refused to show. Ring-tailed Lemur (Chris Kehoe) Before commencing the long drive west to Isalo we returned to Vohiparara for a short while where a very brief Madagascan Wood Rail was seen, some had glimpses of a typically elusive Brown Emutail and we had further encounters with a showy Madagascan Yellowbrow, Blue Coua and a smart Velvet Asity. After travelling for the rest of the morning we reached the small community reserve at Anja where, after a short walk, we enjoyed prolonged close encounters with many superb Ring-tailed Lemurs. As we ate our box lunches a couple of Black Swifts flew over, our first Madagascan Cisticolas were seen and a Peregrine joined a large kettle of Pied Crows. Continuing westward into an increasingly arid landscape we climbed onto the Horombe Plateau before descending to Isalo where we had just enough time to enjoy views of a pair of ‘Benson’s’ Rock Thrushes before the sun sank and we soon reached our comfortable hotel for a one night stay. At first light the next morning we began a two-hour search for Madagascan Partridges near the hotel but found no joy, tall grasses having cloaked the area after the previous season’s heavy rains. After breakfast 3 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com we continued westwards towards Tulear but stopped after 90 minutes at the excellent Zombitse reserve where we remained for the rest of the morning. Our top priority here was the extremely localised Appert’s Tetraka and it didn’t take too long to find a couple of showy individuals. Our first perched Cuckoo Roller was also seen while many others displayed overhead. Another highlight was superb views of the magnificent Giant Coua. Roosting White-browed and ‘Torotoroka; Scops Owls were also seen along with our first Rufous Vanga and Madagascan Green Pigeon plus some splendid Verreaux’s Sifakas. We broke the journey to Tulear with a stop near a dry riverbed where a group of locals were employed to seek out Madagascan Sandgrouse which resulted in great flight views of up to 40 birds. Close to Tulear we diverted along a sand track into an area of coral rag scrub where we went in search of the famous Red-shouldered Vanga (a species only discovered in 1997) and were soon enjoying very close views of a male that sang away as it circled around us. Also seen here was a Running Coua, Subdesert Brush Warblers, several Namaqua Doves and Sakalava Weavers plus our first Madagascan Bushlarks but in rather windy conditions the hoped- for Verreaux’s Coua was not in the mood to perform. Red-shouldered Vanga (Chris Kehoe) Early the next morning we were aboard a boat and speeding south to Nosy Ve. As we approached this small uninhabited Island it was apparent that a small group of Crab Plovers were roosting at the northern end and we sailed close enough to have wonderful views of eight birds along with a few Lesser Crested Terns. Happy with this we motored to the south end of the island and waded ashore to enjoy the fine spectacle of up to 20 Red-tailed Tropicbirds, including juveniles and brooding adults in the shade of the scattered bushes. Having had our fill, we crossed to the nearby mainland where it took just a few minutes to locate a Littoral Rock Thrush and enjoy great views. After a refreshing drink we returned to Tulear and boarded the bus for the journey north to Ifaty. We made two stops along the way, first to watch ‘Madagascan’ Three-banded Plovers at the roadside and then to see a couple of rare Madagascan Plovers amongst several Kittlitz’s Plovers on the Ifaty salt flats where Caspian Tern was also added to our list. After lunch and a rest in the heat of the day at our beachfront hotel, where Madagascan Mannikins were a catch-up species for some, we paid our first visit the spectacular Spiny Forest a short distance inland. With the invaluable aid of a team of skilled local trackers we were soon savoring some of the wonderful specialities of the area. First up was a Subdesert Mesite atop its nest, soon followed by Madagascar Sparrowhawk, also attending a nest. The calls of Lafresnaye’s Vanga in the distance saw us hastening to the spot and having good views, during which time a 4 BirdQuest Tour Report: Ultimate Madagascar 2018 www.birdquest-tours.com truly fantastic pair of Long-tailed Ground Roller was coaxed into the open for outstanding views.
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