Functional Ingredients ‘The Art of Oils’ Some Deﬁne Art As the Human Capacity to Create Through Imaginative Or Technical Skill

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functional ingredients ‘The Art of Oils’ Some deﬁne art as the human capacity to create through imaginative or technical skill. At AAK Personal Care we use our technological know-how and skills to bring out the superb functionality of lipids found in renewable oils. We call it ‘The Art of Oils’. personal care

As a formulator or manufacturer, you When natural, functional, stable Supporting your innovation know that cosmetic innovation is not and sustainable matter The development of unique only about identifying entirely new Today our specialised knowledge ingredients is one way we help you sources, ingredients or formulations. in lipid ingredients brings highly to stay aligned with global trends. It is also about finding new ways appreciated benefits to local, regional But we don’t stop there. to use, improve or replace parts of and global cosmetic brands. All our To fully support your innovation them, inspired by evolving demands ingredients originate from renewable, process we provide ever-important from consumers, society and natural sources and are carefully technical support, claims substantia- regulators. A task more easily processed to achieve desired tion, idea proposals and knowledge accomplished when working with functionality and stability, while sharing. Together with our focus on a knowledgeable partner. manufactured with low energy- functionality, this makes us ideally processing methods to reduce their suited to help you create more Specialists in lipids ecological footprint. specialised and sustainable cos- for more than a century Formulators especially appreciate metics that consumers are looking At AAK Personal Care we develop our ingredients for their track record for – your masterpieces in the high-performance, active, functional concerning functionality, safety, making. Bioactives 4 and natural based lipids for use in stability and sustainability. skin care, hair care, colour cosmetics Emollients 6 and other personal care products. With more than 100 years of ex- Surfactants 10 perience working with vegetable oils, Structuring Agents 11 AAK’s expertise is unequalled. Our introducing science-based product development, Emulsifiers 12 technical expertise and technological Lipex AAK ACADEMY™ 13 know-how are highly regarded and ™ a guarantee for consistently high SheaClear Approvals and Certifications 14 quality. Application advice 15 100% clear Eco-design 17 liquid shea oil Lipex page 6 SheaLight™ Awarded Best Sustainable Ingredient 2014 page 17 Bioactives

Products INCI (EU) Documented Description/Applications Use level Functionality

bioactives ™ Lipex SheaTris Butyrospermum Barrier strengthening Shea butter triterpene ester 0,3–0,5% Parkii (in vitro, ex vivo) concentrate. Long-term protection Butter Extract Collagen protecting against environmental stress. naturally-derived bioactive lipids (in vitro, ex vivo) Protection against premature ageing. Anti-inﬂammatory (in vitro) Triterpene ester content 50–65%. Skin care and make-up.

Lipex Cellect™ Phytosteryl Canola Anti-inflammatory (in vitro) Canola based phytosterol 0,5–2% When it comes to protecting skin AAK patented fractionation technol- applications. The lipophilic nature Glycerides concentrate. Helps to supplement against environmental stress and ogy, we have been able to develop makes them readily bioavailable and skin lipids. Protects against premature premature ageing, our naturally-derived and manufacture exceptional bio- highly functional, allowing low-use ageing. Phytosterol ester content 45%. Skin care and make-up. bioactives have proven very powerful. active ingredients. concentrations. Their good skin Even in small doses, these ingredients Our bioactives feature high con- tolerance with documented have demonstrated large benefits centrations of anti-oxidative natural non-irritancy and non-sensitising through excellent anti-inflammatory tocopherols (Vitamin E), anti- properties make them well suited for and collagen protecting properties. inflammatory phytosterols and their high-end facial skin care, sensitive esters, as well as triterpene esters skin and dermo-cosmetic applica- Utilising the bioactivity appreciated for their skin protecting tions. The high stability profile further of minor lipids and revitalising properties. allows for applications within caring Our anti-ageing bioactives are colour cosmetics. scientifically developed to utilise the Well-documented functionality By including a natural based inherent bioactivity of the minor and skin tolerance Lipex bioactive in your formulations, lipids found in sustainable sources Lipex bioactives are well- you can more easily meet the of canola oil and shea butter. Using charact erised lipophilic ingredients objective of well-protected and our soft processing and unique for safe use within personal care younger-looking skin.

4 5 Bioactive Emollients

Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level (Origin)

Softening Photo Protecting Anti- inflammatory emollients Lipex PreAct™ Canola Oil Canola oil with unique composition of natural 2–5% • • • (Canola) tocopherols (vitamin E) and phytosterols. Documented protection of skin proteins and lipids against photo oxidation and free radicals. Our decades of experience within Leading manufacturer of shea Other natural sources Skin care, hair care and make-up. lipid technology has enabled us to based emollients Illipe, mango, canola, cocoa, coconut develop advanced, high-performance With more than 60 years of presence and avocado are examples of other Performance Emollients naturally-derived emollients with high in West Africa, we control and ensure natural sources used in our emollient stability and long shelf life. This lipid the highest quality in all aspects of range. Each of these sources is Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level expertise is clearly evidenced the shea butter supply chain: sourcing, carefully chosen, processed and (Origin) through a long list of alternative processing and manufacturing. This in some cases mixed to obtain the Softening Moisturising Sensory improver Texture butters, gels, oils and esters. is your guarantee for outstanding exact chemical profile you need for Over the years AAK scientists consistent quality and stability. developing the specific cosmetic Solids have constantly refined and improved formulation and consumer performance of our emollients to experience you envision. Lipex Theobroma Cacao • • • • Cocoa butter with optimised melting profile. 2–5% actively contribute to the efficacy, CocoaSoft™ Seed Butter Improved heat stability and crystallisation functionality and sensory aspects (Cocoa) properties versus traditional cocoa butter. Skin care. of your final formulations. Lipex IllipeSoft™ Shorea Stenoptera • • • • Illipe butter with optimised melting profile. 2–5% (Illipe) Seed Butter Improved heat stability and crystallisation properties versus traditional illipe butter. Skin care. Lipex 102™ Butyrospermum • Refined and deodorised shea butter. 1–2% (Shea) Parkii Butter Low colour and odour. Skin care. Lipex 106™ Shorea Stenoptera • Refined and deodorised illipe butter of the 1–2% (Illipe) Seed Butter Dayaks of Borneo. Low colour and odour. ™ Skin care. Lipex SheaClear

100% clear liquid shea oil Semi-solids

™ Lipex SheaSoft Butyrospermum • • • • Soft semi-solid shea butter. Documented 2–15% • high unsaponiﬁable content (Shea) Parkii Butter moisturisation and skin barrier recovery. Improved heat stability and crystallisation properties • softens and moisturises the skin new & versus traditional shea butters. Suitable for high concentrations and anhydrous formulations. • improves shine and softness in hair unique! Skin care, hair care and make-up. Lipex Shea™ Butyrospermum • • • • Improved shea butter. Quick crystallisation 2–15% (Shea) Parkii Butter for long-term texture stabililty. see table page 8 Skin care and hair care.

6 7 Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level (Origin)

Softening Moisturising Sensory improver Texture Softening Moisturising Sensory improver Texture

Semi-solids Esters Lipex L´sens™ Soybean Glycerides • • • Polar vegetable gel. Documented moisturisation. 2–5% Lipex Shea W™ Shea Butter Cetyl • • • • Solid shea butter wax ester. Dry and velvety 2–5% (Soybean/Shea) (and) Butyrospermum Skin care, hair care and make-up. Esters skin feel. Optimised for make-up and anhydrous Parkii Butter formulations. Unsaponiﬁables Skin care, hair care and make-up. Lipex Genova™ Elaeis Guineensis Oil • • • • Soft palm-based vegetable gel with unique 2–5% Lipex Shea WM™ Shea Butter Oleyl • • Liquid shea butter ester. Low viscosity and low 2–5% (Palm) melting proﬁle. Skin care. Esters spreadability. Quick absorption and velvety skin feel. Skin care, hair care and make-up. Akosoft 36™ Hydrogenated • • • Stable semi-solid emollient based on coco- 2–5% (Coco-glycerides) Coco-glycerides glycerides. Skin care, hair care and make-up. Lipex SheaLight™ Shea Butter Ethyl • • Eco-designed liquid shea butter ester. 5–15% Esters Low viscosity. Light and silky soft skin feel. Use level Suitable for cold processing. Liquids Skin care, hair care, sun care and make-up. Lipex Butyrospermum • • • Liquid shea oil for clear formulations and cold 2-80% SheaClear™ Parkii Oil processing. Suitable for all types of moisturising High Stability Base Emollients (Shea) and softening body oils, face oils and hair oils. A mild ingredient for baby oils and lotions. Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level Skin care and hair care.

Lipex 205™ Butyrospermum Liquid shea butter with enriched content of triterpene 2–5% • • • Softening Moisturising Sensory improver Texture (Shea) Parkii Butter (or) esters and vitamin F. Contributes to good skin health. Butyrospermum Skin care, hair care and make-up. Parkii Oil Semi-solids

™ Lipex Olus Oil (and) • • Stable delivery system with optimised balance of 2–5% Akogel Hydrogenated • • • Semi-solid vegetable gel with paste-like 5–15% Omega 3/6™ Camelina Sativa omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids (3:1) from Gold of Vegetable Oil consistency. Long shelf life (OSI >100h, 110°C). (Gold of Pleasure) Seed Oil Pleasure oil. Essential omega fatty acids for restoring Skin care and make-up. skin health. Suitable for cold processing. ™ Skin care, hair care and make-up. Akogel Plus Hydrogenated • • • • Semi-solid vegetable gel with paste-like 5–15% Vegetable Oil consistency Long shelf life (OSI >100h, 110°C). Lipex Omega Olus Oil (and) • • Stable delivery system with evening primrose oil 2–5% Skin care and make-up. EPO™ Oenothera Biennis Oil (gamma linolenic acid). Essential omega fatty acids

(Evening Primrose) for restoring skin health. Suitable for cold processing. Skin care, hair care and make-up. Liquids

™ Lipex Omega Olus Oil (and) • • Stable delivery system with passionflower seed oil 2–3% Lipex Bassol C Olus Oil (or) • Renewable clear high stability oil (OSI 40h, 110°C). 5–15% Passiflora™ Passiflora (omega-6 fatty acids). Essential omega fatty acids for Canola Oil Alternative to mineral/synthetic emollients and vegetable oils with short shelf life. Suitable for (Passionflower) Incarnata Seed Oil restoring skin health. Suitable for cold processing. Skin care, hair care and make-up. cold processing. Skin care and hair care. Lipex 109 S™ Gossypium Cottonseed oil stabilised with an optimised natural 2–3% • • High Oleic Brassica Campestris Canola oil with prolonged shelf life (OSI 16hours, 5–15% (Cottonseed) Herbaceum Seed Oil antioxidant system. Rich in omega-6 fatty acids. ™ • Skin care and hair care. Brassica Oil Seed Oil 110°C). Rich in omega-9 and omega-6 fatty acids. Skin care. Lipex 120™ Canola Oil Canola oil stabilised with an optimised natural 2–3% • • Akosun™ Helianthus Annuus Cold clear high oleic (omega-9) sunflower seed oil. 5–15% (Canola) antioxidant system. Rich in omega-3, omega-6 • and omega-9 fatty acids. Skin care. Hybrid Oil Prolonged shelf life (OSI 20h, 110°C) compared to traditional sunflower seed oil. Lipex 203™ Mangifera Indica • A golden oil from the seeds of the mango fruit. 2–3% Skin care. (Mango) Seed Oil Skin care, hair care and make-up. Akomed R™ Caprylic/Capric • Caprylic/capric triglyceride oil with long shelf life 5–15% Akogreen O™ Olea Europaea Refined and deodorised certified organic 2–3% Triglyceride (OSI>100h, 110°C). • Skin care and make-up. (Organic Olive) Fruit Oil olive oil. Rich in omega-9 fatty acids. Skin care.

8 9 surfactants structuring

When creating shampoos, condition- Our Lipex Shea Betaine has been ers, shower gels, liquid soaps and shown to offer an improvement of face cleansing products, our mild hair volume, softness and combing agents amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants properties in both wet and dry hair help you to reduce eye and skin compared to betaines from coconut. irritation potential compared to other And our ethoxylated Lipex surfac- Our structuring agents offer good Based on vegetable fats, these surfactants. tants made with water-soluble shea crystallisation behaviour and choice triglyceride ingredients are designed Based on shea butter and mango or mango can also act as solubilisers of melting proﬁles to help you achieve to show good compatibility with oil, these gentle but effective surfac- of essential oils and perfumes. precisely the texture and consistency other cosmetic ingredients when tants are appropriate even for baby that consumers want from skin care structuring all types of emulsions care products. and make-up products. and anhydrous formulations, particularly decorative cosmetics such as lipsticks and pencils.

Surfactants Structuring Agents

Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level

Cleansing Conditioning Viscosity enhancer Solubiliser Texture Lipex Shea • • Shea butter based amphoteric surfactant for mild 2–5% Akoﬁne R™ Hydrogenated • Structurising vegetable triglyceride. High melting point 1–5% Shea Betaine™ Butteramidopropyl rinse-off hair and body care formulations. Suitable Vegetable Oil (mp 58-60°C) and good thermal stability. Stabilises oil Betaine for clear, translucent and opaque formulations. based dispersions and increases texture in anhydrous and emulsion formulations. Lipex 102 E75™ PEG-75 Shea Butter • • • Water-soluble shea butter. Mild non-ionic Skin care and make-up. Glycerides surfactant. Improves viscosity and decreases 1–3% irritancy in rinse-off hair and body care Akoﬁne P™ Hydrogenated • Structurising vegetable triglyceride. High melting point 1–5% formulations. Vegetable Oil (mp 59-61°C). Stabilises structure and increases temperature resistance in anhydrous formulations. Lipex 203 E70™ PEG-70 Mango • • • Water-soluble mango oil. Mild non-ionic surfactant. 1–3% Skin care and make-up. Glycerides Improves viscosity and decreases irritancy in rinse- off hair and body care formulations. Lipex BC™ Hydrogenated • Structurising triglyceride base for pencils and 5–15% Vegetable Oil stick formulations. Sharp melting point at body temperature (mp 34-36°C). Skin care and make-up.

10 11 emulsifiers AAK ACADEMY™ the knowledge centre for applied lipid technology The composition of the emollient and products renowned for their mildness emulsifier you choose will always and moisturising capacity. Formulat- influence the viscosity and stability ing with these natural based emulsi- of your cosmetic formulation. But it fiers is therefore relevant not only for can also influence the activity and natural skin care products, but also sensory aspects of the formulation. for developing skin care formulations Akoline – our line of vegetable that provide a pleasant, soft and derived emulsifiers – are high quality elegant skin feel.

Emulsiﬁers

Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level

o/w emulsion w/o emulsion Skin conditioner Solubiliser Akoline MCM™ Caprylic/Capric • • Medium chain mono-/diglyceride with high solubi- 1–3% Glycerides lisation capacity. Co-emulsifier for o/w emulsions. At AAK, ‘The Art of Oils’ is all about courses is a great way for product Topics Suitable for microemulsion formulations. (HLB 8–9). Skin care, hair care and make-up. using our technological know-how developers and formulators to learn • Skin health and skills to bring out the superb more about the technology. It also ™ • Lipids – essential skin nutrients Akoline GC Hydrogenated • • Polar anionic/non-ionic o/w emulsifier. (HLB 11). 1–4% functionality of renewable, vegetable paves the way for open and construc- Vegetable Releases citric acid giving improved skin • Vegetable derived, Glycerides Citrate firmness and smoothness. derived lipids. The AAK Academy is tive dialogue that can continue to renewable sources Skin care, hair care and make-up. all about sharing lipid insights and pay benefits in your future work with • Sustainable processing know-how, to make you a master in cosmetic formulations. Akoline SL™ Sodium Stearoyl Highly polar anionic o/w emulsifier. (HLB 17). 0,2–1% • Shelf life optimisation • • technical application, because the We offer open and closed courses Lactylate Stabilises liquid crystals. Releases lactic acid • Optimal emollient blend for more you know about lipid technology, ranging from basic lipid know-how giving improved skin firmness and smoothness. skin care Skin care, hair care and make-up. the easier it is to find the best solution focused on lipid chemistry, sustain- • Creating texture by combining for your formulation. able processing and functionality in Akoline LC™ Glyceryl Stearate Anionic emulsifier for o/w creams and lotions. 1–3% waxes and emollients • • As a customer of AAK Personal different applications, to more Citrate (HLB 12). Can be used in cold processing. • Consistency and skin feel Skin care, hair care and make-up. Care you have unique access to advanced courses in lipid crystallisa- • Crystallisation and rheology ™ AAK’s team of lipid experts through tion and rheology. Akoline PG7 Polyglyceryl-3 • Non-ionic o/w emulsifier giving shiny emulsions. 2–5% • Lipid based emulsifiers Stearate Stabilises liquid crystals. (HLB 7). the AAK Academy. Attending our Skin care, hair care and make-up. Akoline PGPR™ Polyglyceryl-3 • An efficient non-ionic w/o emulsifier and 2–5% Polyricinoleate dispersion stabiliser. (HLB 3–4). Skin care, hair care and make-up. Akoline MD50™ Glyceryl Stearate • • Basic w/o emulsifier and stabiliser for creams 1–5% and lotions. (HLB 3). For more information about the AAK Academy program kindly visit www.aakpersonalcare.com Skin care, hair care and make-up. For more information about closed, customer specific seminars, please call +46 454 820 00 or mail [email protected]

12 13 Approvals and Certiﬁcations

Application Advice

* **

Products NPA*** Organic Products INCI (EU) Skin care Face– and Body Rinse-off/Wash – Face and Body Sun care – SPF and After Sun Baby care – oils, lotions and creams Dermo-cosmetics Make-up – foundations and facial make-up Make-up – sticks, pencils and powders Hair care – rinse-off shampoos and conditioners Styling and leave-in conditioners Products INCI (EU) Skin care – Face and Body Rinse-off/Wash – Face and Body Sun care – SPF and After Sun Baby care – oils, lotions and creams Dermo-cosmetics Make-up – foundations and facial make-up Make-up – sticks, pencils and powders Hair care – rinse-off shampoos and conditioners Styling and leave-in conditioners

Emollients Bioactives Esters

Akogel™ • • • Lipex SheaTris™ Butyrospermum Parkii • • • • • Lipex Shea W™ Shea Butter Cetyl Esters • • • Akogel Plus™ • • • Butter Extract Lipex Shea WM™ Shea Butter Oleyl Esters • • • • • • Akogreen O™ • **** Lipex Cellect™ Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides • • • • • Lipex SheaLight™ Shea Butter Ethyl Esters • • • • • • Akomed R™ • Akosoft 36™ • Bioactive Emollients High Stability Base Emollients Lipex Bassol C™ • • Semi-solids Lipex CocoaSoft™ • • • Lipex PreAct™ Canola Oil • • • • • • • • • Lipex Genova™ • • • Akogel™ Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil • • • • • • • Lipex IllipeSoft™ • • Performance Emollients Akogel Plus™ Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil • • • • • • • Lipex L´sens™ • Solids Lipex Omega 3/6™ • • Liquids Lipex Omega Passiflora™ • • Lipex CocoaSoft™ Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter • • • • • Lipex PreAct™ • • Lipex IllipeSoft™ Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter • • • • • Lipex Bassol C™ Olus Oil (or) Canola Oil • • • • • • Lipex Shea™ Lipex 102™ Butyrospermum Parkii Butter High Oleic Brassica Campestris Seed Oil • • • ™ • • • Lipex Shea W™ • Lipex 106™ Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter • Brassica Oil Lipex Shea WM™ • Akosun™ Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil • • • Lipex SheaLight™ • • • Semi-solids Akomed R™ Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride • • • • Lipex SheaSoft™ • • Lipex SheaSoft™ Butyrospermum Parkii Butter • • • • • • Surfactants Structuring Agents Lipex Shea™ Butyrospermum Parkii Butter • • • • • Lipex L´sens™ Soybean Glycerides (and) • • • • • • • • Lipex Shea Betaine™ Shea Butteramidopropyl Betaine • • Akofine P™ Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Lipex 102 E75™ PEG-75 Shea Butter • • Unsaponifiables • • • • Lipex BC™ • • Glycerides Lipex Genova™ Elaeis Guineensis Oil • • • • Lipex 203 E70™ PEG-70 Mango Glycerides • • • • Emulsifiers Akosoft 36™ Hydrogenated Coco-glycerides • • • • • Structuring Agents Akoline GC™ • Liquids Akoline LC™ • Akofine R™ Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil • • Akoline MCM™ • Lipex SheaClear™ Butyrospermum Parkii Oil • • • • • • • • Akofine P™ Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil • • Akoline MD50™ • • Lipex 205™ Butyrospermum Parkii Butter • • • • • • • • Lipex BC™ Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil • • Akoline PG7™ • • (or) Butyrospermum Parkii Oil Akoline PGPR™ • • Lipex Omega 3/6™ Olus Oil (and) Camelina • • • • • • Emulsifiers Akoline SL™ • • Sativa Seed Oil Lipex Omega EPO™ Olus Oil (and) Oenothera • • • • • • Akoline MCM™ Caprylic/Capric Glycerides • • • • • • *Raw material approved by ECOCERT GREENLIFE, conforming to the ECOCERT Standard Biennis Oil Akoline GC™ Hydrogenated Vegetable • • • • • • **Raw material approved by ECOCERT GREENLIFE, conforming to the COSMOS Standard Lipex Omega Olus Oil (and) Passiflora • • • • • • Glycerides Citrate ***Natural Products Association, US ****Certified by the Soil Association, UK ™ Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil Akoline SL™ Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate • • • • • • • Different types of official and private functionality, but also provide standards. For the latest status Lipex 109 S™ Gossypium Herbaceum • Akoline LC™ Glyceryl Stearate Citrate • • • • • • Seed Oil ™ standards are important tools when compliance for approval by various updates, official certificates and Akoline PG7 Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate • • • • • • Lipex 120™ Canola Oil Akoline PGPR™ Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate developing formulations to meet certifying bodies. Use the table letters of approval, please contact • • • • • • Lipex 203™ Mangifera Indica Seed Oil • • • • • Akoline MD50™ Glyceryl Stearate • • • • • • • market demands. AAK Personal above as guidance for selecting AAK Personal Care. ™ Akogreen O Olea Europaea Fruit Oil • Care strives to provide ingredients ingredients approved and/or that not only fulfil demands for certified according to specific

14 15 16 Version 1: 2015 eco-design

In the cosmetics and personal Sensible alternatives Sustainable processing care industry, emollients typically Our objective with Lipex SheaLight With the question of raw materials make up the largest part of most was to create a sustainable ester addressed, we turned our focus to formulations, particularly within that could deliver light skin feel and another crucial dimension of eco- skin care. This makes them the good stability. We chose shea as design – processing conditions. best place to start when looking to the base material because of its Conventional processes for improve the sustainability proﬁle of favourable fatty acid composition making esters require high amounts your formulations. and signiﬁcance for conservation of energy as well as catalysts By considering eco-designed and development in West Africa. that are less advantageous from alternatives early on during the de- Esters, however, require an an environmental perspective. In sign phase, you can create formula- alcohol. And because synthetic contrast, Lipex SheaLight is made tions that will advance your efforts alcohols traditionally used for esters using lower temperatures, shorter farther and faster. Our innovative are non-renewable, we chose to processing times and biodegrad- ester, Lipex SheaLight, is one such look for an alternative made from able catalysts – all helping to alternative, and an example of how agricultural sources. Ethanol was reduce energy consumption and we apply these same eco-design the best choice due to its easy the greenhouse gas footprint. principles. availability and low environmental impact. Award-winning achievement Our efforts have truly paid off. At the 2014 Sustainable Cosmetics Summit in Paris, Lipex SheaLight was named Best Sustainable Ingredient!

™ AAK Sweden AB Lipex SheaLight Business sector AAK Personal Care Best Sustainable Phone +46 454 820 00 Ingredient 2014 Fax +46 454 828 85 [email protected] aakpersonalcare.com