functional ingredients personal care eco-design

As a formulator or manufacturer, you When natural, functional, stable In the cosmetics and personal Sustainable processing know that cosmetic innovation is not and sustainable matter care industry, emollients typically With the question of raw materials only about identifying entirely new Today our specialised knowledge make up the largest part of most addressed, we turned our focus sources, ingredients or formulations. in lipid ingredients brings highly formulations, particularly within to another crucial dimension of It is also about finding new ways appreciated benefits to local, regional skin care. This makes them the eco-design – processing condi- and global cosmetic brands. All our to use, improve or replace parts of best place to start when looking tions. Conventional processes for them, inspired by evolving demands ingredients originate from renewable, to improve the sustainability profile making esters require high amounts from consumers, society and natural sources and are carefully of your formulations. of energy as well as catalysts that regulators. That’s where we can help. processed to achieve desired functionality, stability and safety. By considering eco-designed are less advantageous from an Specialists in lipids Furthermore, we use low-energy alternatives early on during the environmental perspective. for more than a century processing methods to reduce their design phase, you can create In contrast, Lipex SheaLight is At AAK Personal Care we develop ecological footprint. formulations that will advance made using lower temperatures, high-performance, active, functional your efforts farther and faster. Our shorter processing times and bio- and natural based lipids for use in Supporting your innovation innovative ester, Lipex SheaLight, degradable catalysts – all helping skin care, hair care, colour cosmetics The development of unique is one such alternative, and an to reduce energy consumption and other personal care products. ingredients is one way we help you example of how we apply these and the greenhouse gas footprint. With more than 100 years of ex- to stay aligned with global trends. same eco-design principles. perience working with vegetable oils, But we don’t stop there. Award-winning achievement AAK’s expertise is unequalled. To fully support your innovation Sensible alternatives Our efforts have truly paid off. Our science-based product devel- process we provide ever-important Our objective with Lipex SheaLight At the 2014 Sustainable Cosmetics opment, technical expertise and technical support, claims substan- was to create a sustainable ester Summit in Paris, Lipex SheaLight technological know-how are highly tiation, idea proposals, knowledge was named Best Sustainable regarded and a guarantee for sharing and inspiration. Together with that could deliver light skin feel and consistently high quality. our focus on functionality, this makes good stability. We chose shea as Ingredient! And in 2015 it was us ideally suited to help you create the base material because of its recognized by the National Prod- more specialised and sustainable favourable fatty acid composition ucts Association as a leading cos metics that consumers are and significance for conservation example of advancing technology looking for – your masterpieces and development in West Africa. to make natural products that are in the making. Esters, however, require an also sustainable. alcohol. And because synthetic alcohols traditionally used for esters are non-renewable, we chose to look for an alternative made from agricultural sources. Ethanol was Content: the best choice due to its easy Bioactives 4 Emollients 6 Structuring Agents 10 availability and low environmental Emulsifiers & Surfactants 11 AAK ACADEMY™ 12 impact. Approvals and Certifications 12 Application advice 14

2 3 bioactives

Products INCI (EU) Documented Description/Applications Use level naturally-derived bioactive lipids Functionality

Lipex SheaTris™ Butyrospermum Barrier strengthening Shea butter triterpene ester 0,3–0,5% Parkii (in vitro, ex vivo) concentrate. Long-term protection Butter Extract Collagen protecting against environmental stress. When it comes to protecting skin AAK patented fractionation technol- applications. The lipophilic nature (in vitro, ex vivo) Protection against premature ageing. against environmental stress and ogy, we have been able to develop makes them readily bioavailable and Anti-inflammatory (in vitro) Triterpene ester content 50–65%. premature ageing, our naturally-derived and manufacture exceptional bio- highly functional, allowing low-use Skin care and makeup. bioactives have proven very powerful. active ingredients. concentrations. Their good s kin Lipex Cellect™ Phytosteryl Canola Anti-inflammatory (in vitro) Canola based phytosterol 0,5–2% Even in small doses, these ingredients Our bioactives feature high con- tolerance with documented Glycerides concentrate. Helps to supplement have demonstrated large benefits centrations of anti-oxidative natural non-irritancy and non-sensitising skin lipids. Protects against premature ageing. Phytosterol ester content 45%. through excellent anti-inflammatory tocopherols (Vitamin E), anti- properties make them well suited for Skin care and makeup. and collagen protecting properties. inflammatory phytosterols and their high-end facial skin care, sensitive esters, as well as triterpene esters skin and dermo-cosmetic applica- Utilising the bioactivity appreciated for their skin protecting tions. The high stability profile further of minor lipids and revitalising properties. allows for applications within caring Our anti-ageing bioactives are colour cosmetics. scientifically developed to utilise the Well-documented functionality By including a natural based inherent bioactivity of the minor and skin tolerance Lipex bioactive in your formulations, lipids found in sustainable sources Lipex bioactives are well- you can more easily meet the of canola oil and shea butter. Using charact erised lipophilic ingredients objective of well-protected and our soft processing and unique for safe use within personal care younger-looking skin.

4 5 emollients Bioactive Emollients Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level (Origin)

Softening Photo Protecting Anti- inflammatory Lipex PreAct™ Canola Oil • • • Canola oil with unique composition of natural 2–5% (Canola) tocopherols (vitamin E) and phytosterols. Documented protection of skin proteins and Our decades of experience within Leading manufacturer of shea Other natural sources lipids against photo oxidation and free radicals. lipid technology has enabled us to based emollients Illipe, mango, canola, cocoa and Skin care, hair care and makeup. develop advanced, high-performance With more than 60 years of presence coconut are examples of other Performance Emollients naturally-derived emollients with high in West Africa, we control and ensure natural sources used in our emollient stability and long shelf life. This lipid the highest quality in all aspects of range. Each of these sources is expertise is clearly evidenced the shea butter supply chain: sourcing, carefully chosen, processed and Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level (Origin) through a long list of alternative processing and manufacturing. This in some cases mixed to obtain the

butters, gels, oils and esters. is your guarantee for outstanding exact chemical profile you need for Softening Moisturising Sensory improver Texture

Over the years AAK scientists consistent quality and stability. developing the specific cosmetic have constantly refined and improved formulation and consumer Solids performance of our emollients to experience you envision. actively contribute to the efficacy, Lipex Theobroma Cacao • • • • Cocoa butter with optimised melting profile. 2–5% CocoaSoft™ Seed Butter Improved heat stability and crystallisation functionality and sensory aspects (Cocoa) properties versus traditional cocoa butter. of your final formulations. Skin care. Lipex IllipeSoft™ Shorea Stenoptera • • • • Illipe butter with optimised melting profile. 2–5% (Illipe) Seed Butter Improved heat stability and crystallisation properties versus traditional illipe butter. Skin care. Lipex 102™ Butyrospermum • Refined and deodorised shea butter. 1–2% (Shea) Parkii Butter Low colour and odour. Skin care. Lipex 106™ Shorea Stenoptera • Refined and deodorised illipe butter of the 1–2% (Illipe) Seed Butter Dayaks of Borneo. Low colour and odour. Skin care.

Functionality Semi-solids

™ Lipex SheaSoft Butyrospermum • • • • Soft semi-solid shea butter. Documented 2–15% first. (Shea) Parkii Butter moisturisation and skin barrier recovery. Improved heat stability and crystallisation properties versus traditional shea butters. Suitable for high Naturally. concentrations and anhydrous formulations. Skin care, hair care and makeup. Lipex Shea™ Butyrospermum • • • • Improved shea butter. Quick crystallisation for 2–15% AAK functional (Shea) Parkii Butter long-term texture stabililty. Skin care and hair care.

emollients for eco- Lipex Genova™ Elaeis Guineensis Oil • • • • Soft palm-based vegetable gel with unique 2–5% conscious formulas (Palm) melting profile. Skin care.

6 7 Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level (Origin)

Softening Moisturising Sensory improver Texture Softening Moisturising Sensory improver Texture

Semi-solids Esters Lipex L´sens™ Soybean Glycerides •• • Polar vegetable gel. Documented moisturisation. 2–5% Lipex Shea W™ Shea Butter Cetyl • • • • Solid shea butter wax ester. Dry and velvety 2–5% (Soybean/Shea) (and) Butyrospermum Skin care, hair care and makeup. Esters skin feel. Optimised for makeup and anhydrous Parkii Butter formulations. Unsaponifiables Skin care, hair care and makeup. Akosoft 36™ Hydrogenated • ••Stable semi-solid emollient based on coco- 2–5% Lipex Shea WM™ Shea Butter Oleyl • • Liquid shea butter ester. Low viscosity and low 2–5% (Coco-glycerides) Coco-glycerides glycerides. Skin care, hair care and makeup. Esters spreadability. Quick absorption and velvety skin feel. Skin care, hair care and makeup. Use level

Liquids Lipex SheaLight™ Shea Butter Ethyl • • Eco-designed liquid shea butter ester. 5–15% Lipex Butyrospermum • • • Liquid shea oil for clear formulations and cold 2–80% Esters Low viscosity. Light and silky soft skin feel. SheaClear™ Parkii Oil processing. Suitable for all types of moisturising Suitable for cold processing. Skin care, hair care, sun care and makeup. (Shea) and softening body oils, face oils and hair oils. A mild ingredient for baby oils and lotions. Lipex 205™ Butyrospermum • • • Liquid shea butter with enriched content of triterpene 2–5% High Stability Base Emollients (Shea) Parkii Butter (or) esters and vitamin F. Contributes to good skin health. Butyrospermum Skin care, hair care and makeup. Parkii Oil Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level Lipex Butyrospermum • • • Liquid shea butter from a traceable supply chain with 2–5% SheaLiquid™ TR Parkii Butter (or) enriched content of triterpene esters and vitamin F. Softening Moisturising Sensory improver Texture (Shea) Butyrospermum Contributes to good skin health. Parkii Oil Skin care, hair care and makeup. Semi-solids Lipex Olus Oil (and) • • Stable delivery system with optimised balance of 2–5% Akogel™ Hydrogenated • • • Semi-solid vegetable gel with paste-like 5–15% Omega 3/6™ Camelina Sativa omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids (3:1) from Gold of Vegetable Oil consistency. Long shelf life (OSI >100h, 110°C). (Gold of Pleasure) Seed Oil Pleasure oil. Essential omega fatty acids for restoring Skin care and makeup. skin health. Suitable for cold processing. Skin care, hair care and makeup. Akogel Plus™ Hydrogenated • • • • Semi-solid vegetable gel with paste-like 5–15% Vegetable Oil consistency. Long shelf life (OSI >100h, 110°C). Lipex Omega Olus Oil (and) • • Stable delivery system with evening primrose oil 2–5% Skin care and makeup. EPO™ Oenothera Biennis Oil (gamma linolenic acid). Essential omega fatty acids (Evening Primrose) for restoring skin health. Suitable for cold processing. Skin care, hair care and makeup. Liquids Lipex 109 S™ Gossypium • • Cottonseed oil stabilised with an optimised natural 2–3% Lipex Bassol C™ Olus Oil (or) • Renewable clear high stability oil (OSI 40h, 110°C). 5–15% (Cottonseed) Herbaceum Seed Oil antioxidant system. Rich in omega-6 fatty acids. Canola Oil Alternative to mineral/synthetic emollients and Skin care and hair care. vegetable oils with short shelf life. Suitable for cold processing. Lipex 120™ Canola Oil • • Canola oil stabilised with an optimised natural 2–3% Skin care and hair care. (Canola) antioxidant system. Rich in omega-3, omega-6 and omega-9 fatty acids. Skin care. High Oleic Brassica Campestris • Canola oil with prolonged shelf life (OSI 16hours, 5–15% Brassica Oil™ Seed Oil 110°C). Rich in omega-9 and omega-6 fatty acids. Lipex 203™ Mangifera Indica • A golden oil from the seeds of the mango fruit. 2–3% Skin care. (Mango) Seed Oil Skin care, hair care and makeup. Akosun™ Helianthus Annuus • Cold clear high oleic (omega-9) sunflower seed oil. 5–15% Akogreen O™ Olea Europaea • Refined and deodorised certified organic 2–3% Hybrid Oil Prolonged shelf life (OSI 20h, 110°C) compared to (Organic Olive) Fruit Oil olive oil. Rich in omega-9 fatty acids. Skin care. traditional sunflower seed oil. Skin care. Akomed R™ Caprylic/Capric • Caprylic/capric triglyceride oil with long shelf life 5–15% Triglyceride (OSI>100h, 110°C). Skin care and makeup.

8 9 structuring emulsifiers agents & surfactants

Our structuring agents offer good Based on vegetable fats, these The composition of the emollient and When creating shampoos, liquid crystallisation behaviour and choice triglyceride ingredients are designed emulsifier you choose will always soaps, shower gels and other of melting profiles to help you achieve to show good compatibility with influence the viscosity, stability and cleansing products, our water- precisely the texture and consistency other cosmetic ingredients when skin feel of your cosmetic formulation. soluble shea butter helps to reduce that consumers want from skin care structuring all types of emulsions Our line of vegetable derived emul- potential eye and skin irritation typi- and makeup products. and anhydrous formulations, partic- sifiers – Akoline – brings you high cal of other surfactants. With good ularly decorative cosmetics such as quality ingredients renowned for their foaming properties and viscosity lipsticks and pencils. mildness. Well suited for natural skin control, the ethoxylated shea butter care, they provide pleasant, soft and makes an outstanding ingredient in elegant formulations. all categories, including baby care and products for sensitive skin.

Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level

Emulsifiers Viscosity enhancer Skin conditioner Solubiliser Texture Akofine R™ Hydrogenated • Structurising vegetable triglyceride. High melting point 1–5% Akoline MCM™ Caprylic/Capric • • Medium chain mono-/diglyceride with high solubi- 1–3% Vegetable Oil (mp 58-60°C) and good thermal stability. Stabilises oil Glycerides lisation capacity. Co-emulsifier for o/w emulsions. based dispersions and increases texture in anhydrous Suitable for microemulsion formulations. (HLB 8–9). and emulsion formulations. Skin care, hair care and makeup. Skin care and makeup. ™ Akoline GC Hydrogenated • • Polar anionic/non-ionic o/w emulsifier. (HLB 11). 1–4% Akofine P™ Hydrogenated • Structurising vegetable triglyceride. High melting point 1–5% Vegetable Releases citric acid giving improved skin Vegetable Oil (mp 59-61°C). Stabilises structure and increases Glycerides Citrate firmness and smoothness. temperature resistance in anhydrous formulations. Skin care, hair care and makeup. Skin care and makeup. Akoline SL™ Sodium Stearoyl • • Highly polar anionic o/w emulsifier. (HLB 17). 0,2–1% Lipex BC™ Hydrogenated • Structurising triglyceride base for pencils and 5–15% Lactylate Stabilises liquid crystals. Releases lactic acid Vegetable Oil stick formulations. Sharp melting point at giving improved skin firmness and smoothness. body temperature (mp 34-36°C). Skin care, hair care and makeup. Skin care and makeup. Akoline LC™ Glyceryl Stearate • • Anionic emulsifier for o/w creams and lotions. 1–3% Citrate (HLB 12). Can be used in cold processing. Skin care, hair care and makeup. Akoline PG7™ Polyglyceryl-3 • Non-ionic o/w emulsifier giving shiny emulsions. 2–5% Stearate Stabilises liquid crystals. (HLB 7). Skin care, hair care and makeup. Akoline PGPR™ Polyglyceryl-3 • An efficient non-ionic w/o emulsifier and 2–5% Polyricinoleate dispersion stabiliser. (HLB 3–4). Skin care, hair care and makeup. Lipex 102 E75™ PEG-75 Shea Butter • • Water-soluble shea butter. Mild non-ionic surfactant. 1–3% Glycerides Improves viscosity and decreases irritancy in rinse-off hair and body care formulations.

10 11 ™ HALAL TAYYIB Approvals & H00103 A0097 AAK ACADEMY 01613 AS Certifications Products 2-0001-04-100-00 ® Traceable Organic the knowledge centre for applied lipid technology Bioactives

Different types of official and private Lipex SheaTris™ • standards are important tools when Emollients developing formulations to meet market demands. AAK Personal Akogel™ • • • Care strives to provide ingredients Akogel Plus™ • • • that not only fulfil demands for Akogreen O™ •* functionality, but also provide Akomed R™ • • ™ compliance for approval by various Akosoft 36 • • Akosun™ certifying bodies. • Lipex Bassol C™ • • All AAK Personal Care ingredients Lipex 102™ • based on palm oil are sourced and Lipex 106™ • certified RSPO Mass Balance (MB). Lipex 109 S™ • Use the table to the right as Lipex 120™ • ™ guidance for selecting ingredients Lipex 205 • At AAK, ‘The Art of Oils’ is all about Topics Lipex CocoaSoft™ approved and/or certified according • • • using our technological know-how • Skin health Lipex Genova™ • • • • to specific standards. For the latest ™ and skills to bring out the superb • Lipids – essential skin nutrients Lipex IllipeSoft • • functionality of renewable, vegetable status updates, official certificates Lipex L’sens™ • Vegetable derived, • derived lipids. The AAK Academy is and letters of approval, please Lipex Omega 3/6™ • • renewable sources ™ all about sharing lipid insights and contact AAK Personal Care. Lipex Omega EPO • • Sustainable processing ™ know-how, to make you a master in Lipex PreAct • • • Shelf life optimisation Lipex Shea™ technical application, because the • • • Optimal emollient blend for Lipex Shea W™ more you know about lipid techno- • skin care Lipex Shea WM™ • • logy, the easier it is to find the best ™ • Creating texture by combining Lipex SheaLight • • solution for your formulation. waxes and emollients Lipex SheaSoft™ • • As a customer of AAK Personal ™ • Consistency and skin feel Lipex SheaLiquid TR • • • Care you have unique access to Lipex SheaClear™ • Crystallisation and rheology • AAK’s team of lipid experts through High Oleic Brassica Oil™ • the AAK Academy. Attending our • Lipid based emulsifiers courses is a great way for product Structuring Agents developers and formulators to ™ learn more about the technology. Akofine R • ™ It also paves the way for open and Akofine P • • • Lipex BC™ construc tive dialogue that can con- • • • tinue to pay benefits in your future Emulsifiers work with cosmetic formulations. We offer open and closed Akoline GC™ • • • courses ranging from basic Akoline LC™ • • • lipid know-how focused on lipid Akoline MCM™ For more information about the • • chemistry, sustainable processing Akoline PG7™ AAK Academy program kindly visit • • • ™ and functionality in different appli- www.aakpersonalcare.com Akoline PGPR • • Akoline SL™ cations, to more advanced courses For more information about closed, customer • • • in lipid crystallisation and rheology. specific seminars, mail [email protected] *Certified by the Soil Association, UK 12 Application Advice

Products INCI (EU) care Skin – Face and Body Rinse-off/Wash – Face and Body Sun care – SPF and After Sun care Baby – oils, lotions and creams Dermo-cosmetics Makeup – foundations and makeup facial Makeup – sticks, pencils and powders Hair care – rinse-off shampoos conditioners and Styling and leave-in conditioners Products INCI (EU) care Skin – Face and Body Rinse-off/Wash – Face and Body Sun care – SPF and After Sun care Baby – oils, lotions and creams Dermo-cosmetics Makeup – foundations and makeup facial Makeup – sticks, pencils and powders Hair care – rinse-off shampoos conditioners and Styling and leave-in conditioners

Bioactives Esters

Lipex SheaTris™ Butyrospermum Parkii • • • • • Lipex Shea W™ Shea Butter Cetyl Esters • • • Butter Extract Lipex Shea WM™ Shea Butter Oleyl Esters • • • • • • Lipex Cellect™ Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides • • • • • Lipex SheaLight™ Shea Butter Ethyl Esters • • • • • • •

Bioactive Emollients High Stability Base Emollients Semi-solids Lipex PreAct™ Canola Oil • • • • • • • • • Akogel™ Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil • • • • • • • • • Performance Emollients Akogel Plus™ Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil • • • • • • • • • Solids Liquids Lipex CocoaSoft™ Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter • • • • • Lipex IllipeSoft™ Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter • • • • • Lipex Bassol C™ Olus Oil (or) Canola Oil • • • • • • Lipex 102™ Butyrospermum Parkii Butter High Oleic Brassica Campestris Seed Oil • ™ • • • Lipex 106™ Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter • Brassica Oil Akosun™ Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil • • • Semi-solids Akomed R™ Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride • • • •

Lipex SheaSoft™ Butyrospermum Parkii Butter • • • • • • Structuring Agents Lipex Shea™ Butyrospermum Parkii Butter • • • • • Lipex L’sens™ Soybean Glycerides (and) • • • • • • • • Akofine R™ Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil • • Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Akofine P™ Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil Unsaponifiables • • Lipex BC™ Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil • • Lipex Genova™ Elaeis Guineensis Oil • • • • Akosoft 36™ Hydrogenated Coco-glycerides • • • • • Emulsifiers & Surfactants

Liquids Akoline MCM™ Caprylic/Capric Glycerides • • • • • • Akoline GC™ Hydrogenated Vegetable • • • • • • Lipex SheaClear™ Butyrospermum Parkii Oil • • • • • • • • Glycerides Citrate Lipex 205™ Butyrospermum Parkii Butter • • • • • • • • Akoline SL™ Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate • • • • • • • (or) Butyrospermum Parkii Oil Akoline LC™ Glyceryl Stearate Citrate • • • • • • Lipex Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Akoline PG7™ Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate ™ • • • • • • • • • • • • • • SheaLiquid TR (or) Butyrospermum Parkii Oil Akoline PGPR™ Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate • • • • • Lipex Omega 3/6™ Olus Oil (and) Camelina • • • • • • Lipex 102 E75™ PEG-75 Shea Butter • • • • Sativa Seed Oil Glycerides Lipex Omega EPO™ Olus Oil (and) Oenothera • • • • • • Biennis Oil Lipex 109 S™ Gossypium Herbaceum • Seed Oil Lipex 120™ Canola Oil • Lipex 203™ Mangifera Indica Seed Oil • • Akogreen O™ Olea Europaea Fruit Oil • • • •

14 15 Version 1: 2017

‘The Art of Oils’ Some define art as the human capacity to create through imaginative or technical skill. At AAK Personal Care we use our technological know-how and skills to bring out the superb functionality of lipids found in renewable oils. We call it ‘The Art of Oils’.

AAK Sweden AB AAK USA Inc. AAK China Ltd. AAK Personal Care 499 Thornall St., 5th Floor 6F, Building 6, #3601 SE-374 82 Karlshamn Sweden Edison, NJ 08837 USA Dongfang Road, Shanghai China 200125 Phone +46 454 820 00 Phone +1 973 741 5049 Phone +86 21 6466 7979

For contact information to our international distributors please visit aakpersonalcare.com