Functional Ingredients Personal Care Eco-Design
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functional ingredients personal care eco-design As a formulator or manufacturer, you When natural, functional, stable In the cosmetics and personal Sustainable processing know that cosmetic innovation is not and sustainable matter care industry, emollients typically With the question of raw materials only about identifying entirely new Today our specialised knowledge make up the largest part of most addressed, we turned our focus sources, ingredients or formulations. in lipid ingredients brings highly formulations, particularly within to another crucial dimension of It is also about finding new ways appreciated benefits to local, regional skin care. This makes them the eco-design – processing condi- and global cosmetic brands. All our to use, improve or replace parts of best place to start when looking tions. Conventional processes for them, inspired by evolving demands ingredients originate from renewable, to improve the sustainability profile making esters require high amounts from consumers, society and natural sources and are carefully of your formulations. of energy as well as catalysts that regulators. That’s where we can help. processed to achieve desired functionality, stability and safety. By considering eco-designed are less advantageous from an Specialists in lipids Furthermore, we use low-energy alternatives early on during the environmental perspective. for more than a century processing methods to reduce their design phase, you can create In contrast, Lipex SheaLight is At AAK Personal Care we develop ecological footprint. formulations that will advance made using lower temperatures, high-performance, active, functional your efforts farther and faster. Our shorter processing times and bio- and natural based lipids for use in Supporting your innovation innovative ester, Lipex SheaLight, degradable catalysts – all helping skin care, hair care, colour cosmetics The development of unique is one such alternative, and an to reduce energy consumption and other personal care products. ingredients is one way we help you example of how we apply these and the greenhouse gas footprint. With more than 100 years of ex- to stay aligned with global trends. same eco-design principles. perience working with vegetable oils, But we don’t stop there. Award-winning achievement AAK’s expertise is unequalled. To fully support your innovation Sensible alternatives Our efforts have truly paid off. Our science-based product devel- process we provide ever-important Our objective with Lipex SheaLight At the 2014 Sustainable Cosmetics opment, technical expertise and technical support, claims substan- was to create a sustainable ester Summit in Paris, Lipex SheaLight technological know-how are highly tiation, idea proposals, knowledge was named Best Sustainable regarded and a guarantee for sharing and inspiration. Together with that could deliver light skin feel and consistently high quality. our focus on functionality, this makes good stability. We chose shea as Ingredient! And in 2015 it was us ideally suited to help you create the base material because of its recognized by the National Prod- more specialised and sustainable favourable fatty acid composition ucts Association as a leading cos metics that consumers are and significance for conservation example of advancing technology looking for – your masterpieces and development in West Africa. to make natural products that are in the making. Esters, however, require an also sustainable. alcohol. And because synthetic alcohols traditionally used for esters are non-renewable, we chose to look for an alternative made from agricultural sources. Ethanol was Content: the best choice due to its easy Bioactives 4 Emollients 6 Structuring Agents 10 availability and low environmental Emulsifiers & Surfactants 11 AAK ACADEMY™ 12 impact. Approvals and Certifications 12 Application advice 14 2 3 bioactives Products INCI (EU) Documented Description/Applications Use level naturally-derived bioactive lipids Functionality Lipex SheaTris™ Butyrospermum Barrier strengthening Shea butter triterpene ester 0,3–0,5% Parkii (in vitro, ex vivo) concentrate. Long-term protection Butter Extract Collagen protecting against environmental stress. When it comes to protecting skin AAK patented fractionation technol- applications. The lipophilic nature (in vitro, ex vivo) Protection against premature ageing. against environmental stress and ogy, we have been able to develop makes them readily bioavailable and Anti-inflammatory (in vitro) Triterpene ester content 50–65%. premature ageing, our naturally-derived and manufacture exceptional bio- highly functional, allowing low-use Skin care and makeup. bioactives have proven very powerful. active ingredients. concentrations. Their good s kin Lipex Cellect™ Phytosteryl Canola Anti-inflammatory (in vitro) Canola based phytosterol 0,5–2% Even in small doses, these ingredients Our bioactives feature high con- tolerance with documented Glycerides concentrate. Helps to supplement have demonstrated large benefits centrations of anti-oxidative natural non-irritancy and non-sensitising skin lipids. Protects against premature ageing. Phytosterol ester content 45%. through excellent anti-inflammatory tocopherols (Vitamin E), anti- properties make them well suited for Skin care and makeup. and collagen protecting properties. inflammatory phytosterols and their high-end facial skin care, sensitive esters, as well as triterpene esters skin and dermo-cosmetic applica- Utilising the bioactivity appreciated for their skin protecting tions. The high stability profile further of minor lipids and revitalising properties. allows for applications within caring Our anti-ageing bioactives are colour cosmetics. scientifically developed to utilise the Well-documented functionality By including a natural based inherent bioactivity of the minor and skin tolerance Lipex bioactive in your formulations, lipids found in sustainable sources Lipex bioactives are well- you can more easily meet the of canola oil and shea butter. Using charact erised lipophilic ingredients objective of well-protected and our soft processing and unique for safe use within personal care younger-looking skin. 4 5 emollients Bioactive Emollients Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level (Origin) Softening Photo Protecting Anti- inflammatory Lipex PreAct™ Canola Oil • • • Canola oil with unique composition of natural 2–5% (Canola) tocopherols (vitamin E) and phytosterols. Documented protection of skin proteins and Our decades of experience within Leading manufacturer of shea Other natural sources lipids against photo oxidation and free radicals. lipid technology has enabled us to based emollients Illipe, mango, canola, cocoa and Skin care, hair care and makeup. develop advanced, high-performance With more than 60 years of presence coconut are examples of other Performance Emollients naturally-derived emollients with high in West Africa, we control and ensure natural sources used in our emollient stability and long shelf life. This lipid the highest quality in all aspects of range. Each of these sources is expertise is clearly evidenced the shea butter supply chain: sourcing, carefully chosen, processed and Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level (Origin) through a long list of alternative processing and manufacturing. This in some cases mixed to obtain the butters, gels, oils and esters. is your guarantee for outstanding exact chemical profile you need for Softening Moisturising Sensory improver Texture Over the years AAK scientists consistent quality and stability. developing the specific cosmetic have constantly refined and improved formulation and consumer Solids performance of our emollients to experience you envision. actively contribute to the efficacy, Lipex Theobroma Cacao • • • • Cocoa butter with optimised melting profile. 2–5% CocoaSoft™ Seed Butter Improved heat stability and crystallisation functionality and sensory aspects (Cocoa) properties versus traditional cocoa butter. of your final formulations. Skin care. Lipex IllipeSoft™ Shorea Stenoptera • • • • Illipe butter with optimised melting profile. 2–5% (Illipe) Seed Butter Improved heat stability and crystallisation properties versus traditional illipe butter. Skin care. Lipex 102™ Butyrospermum • Refined and deodorised shea butter. 1–2% (Shea) Parkii Butter Low colour and odour. Skin care. Lipex 106™ Shorea Stenoptera • Refined and deodorised illipe butter of the 1–2% (Illipe) Seed Butter Dayaks of Borneo. Low colour and odour. Skin care. Functionality Semi-solids ™ Lipex SheaSoft Butyrospermum • • • • Soft semi-solid shea butter. Documented 2–15% first. (Shea) Parkii Butter moisturisation and skin barrier recovery. Improved heat stability and crystallisation properties versus traditional shea butters. Suitable for high Naturally. concentrations and anhydrous formulations. Skin care, hair care and makeup. Lipex Shea™ Butyrospermum • • • • Improved shea butter. Quick crystallisation for 2–15% AAK functional (Shea) Parkii Butter long-term texture stabililty. Skin care and hair care. emollients for eco- Lipex Genova™ Elaeis Guineensis Oil • • • • Soft palm-based vegetable gel with unique 2–5% conscious formulas (Palm) melting profile. Skin care. 6 7 Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level (Origin) Softening Moisturising Sensory improver Texture Softening Moisturising Sensory improver Texture Semi-solids Esters Lipex L´sens™ Soybean Glycerides •• • Polar vegetable gel. Documented moisturisation.