SMOKIESThe official newspaper of Great SmokyGUIDE Mountains National Park • Fall 2018 In this issue

Smokies trip planner • 2 Great sights to see • 4 National Park news • 5 Why we like lichens • 6 The park’s aged sycamores • 7 Summer driving tours map • 8 opens • 10 Ranger programs • 11 How to help the Smokies • 14 Park etiquette • 15 Visitor information • 16

Although the Foothills Parkway exists outside park boundaries, it is managed by the NPS just like lands inside the park. GSMA image

The Foothills Parkway’s ‘Missing Link’ Found FOOTHILLS PARKWAY Final 15-mile section from Walland to Wears Valley is slated to open later this year TIMELINE R t a s i n l 1939: Proposal for Foothills Parkway g a e i ark visitors can soon drive from erous segment was halted due to erosion r c gains support C e e p Wears Valley to Walland on a scenic and retaining wall failures. Work didn’t d S P r n ic io 1944: Parkway authorized by Congress T at byway nearly three quarters of a century resume until the late 1990s when a new, alle rm y, Visual Info in the making. The Foothills Parkway, highly ambitious plan was hatched to 1947: State of begins whose construction has been subject to complete the span not with a standard acquiring lands for parkway Words with a Ranger starts and stops since it was first commis- roadway, but with a series of cantilevered 1966: Cosby to I-40 section opens Not all park rangers do exactly the sioned, will become substantially longer concrete bridges that minimize envi- 1968: Chilhowee Lake to Walland same job. Although my duties overlap with the finalization of the Missing Link. ronmental damage and offer unfettered section opens somewhat with those typically asso- Gorgeous views were a priority when views of the Smokies’ highest peaks. 1979: State donates land to NPS ciated with a park ranger—such as the Foothills Parkway was conceived in When the 15-mile Walland to Wears 1939. Because mountains usually look Valley section opens later this year, it 1989: Construction on Wears Valley leading programs for kids or perform- section halted ing search and rescues—my job as better from a distance, the parkway was will connect with the 17-mile segment Environmental Assessment visual information specialist is mostly routed outside the park, through the between U.S. Highway 129 at Chilhowee 1996: 2,000-3,000-foot-high foothills that Lake and U.S. Highway 321 in Walland completed and series of bridges and behind the scenes. cut-fills solve Missing Link I started with the National Park front the like that was opened in 1968. The result will Final 15-mile section between Service in August 2010. I worked at bleachers. Early parkway proponents also be 32 miles of continuous parkway— 2017: Walland and Wears Valley paved Chattahoochee River National Recre- foresaw alternate routes relieving conges- without billboards, utility poles, or ation Area in Atlanta, Georgia, before tion on the park’s busy main roads. commercial traffic—offering stunning Late 2018: Walland to Wears Valley section slated to open to public joining the staff at Great Smoky... The Missing Link became infamous views of the Great Smoky Mountains Words with a Ranger continued on page 5 in 1989 when construction of the treach- and the . SMOKIES TRIP PLANNER Maps and guides: SmokiesInformation.org Additional information: nps.gov/grsm

Camping in the national park Call 877.444.6777 or contact recreation. Certified wood may be purchased in • Sevierville 888.766.5948 or The National Park Service maintains gov. Group sites may be reserved up to a and around the park. visitsevierville.com developed campgrounds at nine loca- year in advance. • Townsend 800.525.6834 or tions in the park. Only Cades Cove and The list below shows number of Bicycling smokymountains.org Smokemont are open in winter. There campground sites, elevations, camping Most park roads are too narrow and are no showers or hookups other than fees and maximum RV lengths. heavily traveled by automobiles for safe Pets in the park circuits for special medical uses at Cades For current dates of operation, visit or enjoyable bicycling. However, Cades Pets are allowed in front-country camp- Cove, Elkmont and Smokemont. nps.gov/grsm. Cove Loop Road is an exception. This grounds and beside roads as long as they Campsites at Abrams Creek, Balsam • Abrams Creek 16 sites, elev. 1,125', 11-mile, one-way, paved road provides are restrained at all times. Pets are not Mountain, Big Creek, Cades Cove, opens April 27, $17.50, 12' trailers bicyclists with excellent opportunities allowed on park trails, except for the Cataloochee, Elkmont and Smokemont • Balsam Mountain 42 sites, elev. 5,310', for wildlife viewing and touring Gatlinburg and trails. may be reserved. For reservations call opens May 18, $17.50, 30' RVs historic homesites. Dogs on these trails must be leashed. 877.444.6777 or contact recreation.gov. • Big Creek 12 sites, elev. 1,700', opens From May 9 to Sept. 26, on Sites may be reserved up to 6 months March 30, $17.50, tents only Wednesday and Saturday mornings from Special events in advance. Reservations are required at • Cades Cove 159 sites, elev. 1,807', sunrise until 10 a.m., only bicycles and September 15 Mountain Life Festival: Abrams Creek, Balsam Mountain, Big open year-round, $21-$25, 35'-40' RVs pedestrians are allowed on Cades Cove Mountain Farm Museum Creek and Cataloochee campgrounds. • Cataloochee 27 sites, elev. 2,610', Loop Road. Bicycles may be rented at December 8 Festival of Christmas Past: Site occupancy is limited to 6 people opens March 23, $25, 31' RVs the Cades Cove Campground store. Sugarlands Visitor Center and two vehicles (a trailer = 1 vehicle). • Cosby 157 sites, elev. 2,459', opens Helmets are required by law for December 15 Holiday Homecoming: The maximum stay is 14 days. March 23, $17.50, 25' RVs persons age 16 and under. However, Oconaluftee Visitor Center Special camping sites for large groups • Deep Creek 92 sites, elev. 1,800', helmets are strongly recommended for are available seasonally at Big Creek, opens March 30, $21, 26' RVs all bicyclists. For rent Cades Cove, Cataloochee, Cosby, Deep • Elkmont 220 sites, elev. 2,150', opens Bicycles are permitted on park roads The Appalachian Clubhouse and Spence Creek, Elkmont and Smokemont. March 9, $21-$27, 32'-35' RVs but prohibited on trails except Gatlin- Cabin at Elkmont can be rented for Group sites must be reserved. • Smokemont 142 sites, elev. 2,198', burg, Oconaluftee River and lower daytime events. Contact recreation.gov. open year-round, Deep Creek/Indian Creek. $21-$25, 35'-40' Visitor centers RVs. Accommodations Fall hours of operation are: Oconaluftee • Look Rock closed • LeConte Lodge (accessible by trail and Sugarlands: 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Cades in 2018 only) provides the only lodging in the Cove: 9 a.m.-6:30 p.m. Clingmans To prevent the park. 865.429.5704 or lecontelodge.com Dome 10 a.m.-6 p.m. spread of destruc- For information on lodging outside tive insect pests, the park: Picnic areas the NPS has • Bryson City 800.867.9246 or Picnic areas have a table and raised grill banned outside greatsmokies.com for cooking (charcoal fires only). Please firewood from • 828.788.0034 or see the map on page 16 for locations. entering the park cherokeesmokies.com Picnic pavilions may be reserved for unless it is USDA- • Fontana 800.849.2258 or $12.50-$80 at recreation.gov. or state-certified fontanavillage.com heat-treated wood. • Gatlinburg 800.588.1817 or Other services Campers may gatlinburg.com There are no gas stations, showers, or gather dead and • Maggie Valley 800.624.4431 or restaurants in the national park. down wood in the maggievalley.org

Campsites book up fast in the fall! Make sure you plan ahead at park for campfires. • Pigeon Forge 800.251.9100 or © 2018 Great Smoky Mountains Association recreation.gov. Image by Bill Lea mypigeonforge.com P.O. Box 130 • Gatlinburg, TN 37738 SMOKIES GUIDE E Printed on recycled paper Smokies Guide is produced five times per SUMMER: June 1 Editor Lead Designer Editorial Board Lisa Nagurny Stephanie Sutton Contributing year by Great Smoky Mountains Association LATE SUMMER: Frances Figart Karen Key Lynda Doucette Becky Nichols Cedric Talley Designers and Great Smoky Mountains National Park. mid-August Contributing Writer NPS Coordinator Brad Free Laurel Rematore Florie Takaki Lisa Horstman Publication dates are roughly as follows: AUTUMN: Sept. 15 Steve Kemp Nigel Fields Kristine Johnson Susan Sachs Joey Heath SPRING: March 15 WINTER: Dec. 1 Lloyd Luketin Paul Super Emma DuFort Smokies Guide Fall 2018 • 2 a sunny day in the Fishing Fall hikers should be especially 70s °F is followed Fishing is permitted year-round in aware of abrupt weather changes by a wet, bitterly the park, and a Tennessee or North and the danger of hypothermia—the cold one. By mid- Carolina fishing license is required. lowering of body temperature. The to late April, the Either state license is valid throughout combination of rain, cold and wind weather is milder. the park and no trout stamp is required. (especially at the higher elevations) is • Summer - By Fishing with bait is prohibited in extremely dangerous. mid-June, heat, the park. A special permit is required To prevent hypothermia, carry reli- haze and humidity for the Cherokee Reservation and able rain gear at all times. Layer clothing are the norm. Gatlinburg. Licenses are available in that provides warmth when wet (not Most precipitation nearby towns. cotton). Be prepared for sudden and occurs as afternoon A free fishing map with a complete drastic weather changes. Stay dry. thundershowers. list of all park fishing regulations is avail- able at visitor centers. • Autumn - In mid-September, a Camping in the backcountry Driving distances and pattern of warm, Fall camping can be an exciting estimated times sunny days and adventure for persons properly Cherokee, NC to: crisp, clear nights equipped and informed. To facilitate Gatlinburg: 34 miles (1 hour) often begins. this activity, the National Park Service However, cool, maintains more than 800 miles of Cades Cove: 57 miles rainy days also trails and more than 100 backcountry (2 hours) : 18 miles MOVING ROCKS HARMS occur. campsites and shelters throughout the may fall at the park. One of the greatest challenges for (½ hour) AQUATIC LIFE. higher elevations backcountry campers is deciding where : 25 miles in November. to go. Here are some tools to help. (¾ hour) 1. Go online to view the park’s offi- Cataloochee: 39 miles • Winter - Days cial trail map (nps.gov/grsm/planyour- (1½ hours) during this fickle visit/maps.htm), which shows all park Deep Creek: 14 miles (½ hour) season can be sunny and 65°F or snowy trails, campsites and shelters. Park rules with highs in the 20s. At the low and regulations are also listed here. If Gatlinburg, TN to: Park weather elevations, of 1" or more occur you wish, you can purchase the printed Cherokee: 34 miles (1 hour) • Spring - March has the most change- 3-5 times per year. At Newfound Gap, version of the trail map for $1 by stop- Cades Cove: 27 miles (1 hour) able weather; snow can fall on any day, 69" fall on average. Lows of -20°F are ping at any park visitor center or calling Newfound Gap: 16 miles especially at the higher elevations. Back- possible at the higher elevations. 865.436.7318, ext. 226 or shopping (½ hour) packers are often caught off guard when online at SmokiesInformation.org. Clingmans Dome: 23 miles 2. Call or stop by the park’s back- (¾ hour) country office, which is open daily Cataloochee: 65 miles These temperature from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., for trip plan- (2½ hours) and precipitation ning help. The office is located in Greenbrier Cove: 6 miles averages are Sugarlands Visitor Center, two miles (¼ hour) based on data for south of Gatlinburg on U.S. 441. the last 20 years. Deep Creek: 48 miles 865.436.1297. Temperatures (1½ hours) are in degrees 3. Make your reservation and obtain your permit through the backcountry Fahrenheit. An Townsend, TN to: average of over office at Sugarlands Visitor Center Cades Cove: 9 miles (¼ hour) 84" (7 feet) of (by phone or in person) or online at Newfound Gap: 34 miles precipitation falls smokiespermits.nps.gov. (1¼ hours) on the higher Reservations and permits are elevations of the required for all overnight stays in the Gatlinburg: 22 miles (¾ hour) Smokies. On Mt. backcountry. The cost is $4 per person Cherokee: 52 miles (1½ hours) Le Conte, an Look Rock: 18 miles (½ hour) average of 82.8" of per night. Reservations may be made snow falls per year. up to 30 days in advance. Cataloochee: 87 miles (3 hours)

Smokies Guide Fall 2018 • 3 GREAT SIGHTS TO SEE

1. Clingmans Dome Highlights: mountain views, access to If you want to reach the highest peak in the Smokies, turn off Newfound Gap Road near Newfound Gap and follow the 7-mile-long Clingmans Dome Road to its end. From the large parking area, a very steep, paved, half-mile trail leads CATALOOCHEE ABRAMS past a visitor center to the observation CREEK tower on top of Clingmans Dome. On a Road clear day, the 360° views are unbeatable. Closed BALSAM At an elevation of 6,643', Clingmans to ed OUNTIAN os M cl hicles Dome is significantly cooler than the r ve Roadto surrounding lowlands and receives much mo GOLDMINE more precipitation. LOOP A trip to Clingmans Dome is a trip TRAIL Waterrock Knob to the Canadian-zone spruce-fir forest. This fragrant evergreen woodland is similar to the boreal forests of New England and eastern Canada. An inex- pensive booklet is available to tell you more about the mountain as you ascend to the top of Old Smoky! Mileage from Gatlinburg––23 3. Balsam Mountain 4. Abrams Creek Smoky Mountains, celebrated for its from Cherokee––25 Highlights: mountain views, early fall Highlights: mountain stream, hiking rushing streams and waterfalls. Hikers from Townsend—41 colors, elk trails enjoy the area because of the waterfalls This mile-high area features a camp- This off-the-beaten-path destina- and because there are several loop hikes 2. Goldmine Loop Hike ground (closes October 7; reservations tion offers access to beautiful Abrams to choose from. Mountain bikers can Highlights: old home sites, lake required), picnic area (closes October Creek and tiny Abrams Creek Camp- take advantage of one of the few park view, solitude 10), hiking trails and a scenic drive. To ground (closes October 21; reserva- trails where bicycles are permitted. This moderate, 3.1-mile loop hike get there, take the tions required). Anglers and paddlers Deep Creek area loop hikes include is a great way to escape the crowds and to Mile 458 and turn onto Heintooga enjoy the waters of lower Abrams, near Juney Whank Falls (0.6 mile), Three enjoy autumn in the Smokies. From the Ridge Road. This paved road (closes its mouth at Chilhowee Lake. Hiking Waterfalls Loop (2.4 miles), and Deep end of , hike through the October 29) runs the ridge past scenic trails include Cooper Road and Little Creek-Indian Creek Loop (4.4 miles). 0.6-mile Lakeshore Trail tunnel (flash- overlooks for 9 miles to Balsam Moun- Bottoms, as well as lower Abrams Creek Longer loop hikes are also available. lights recommended), and turn onto tain Campground and Heintooga Picnic Trail to popular Abrams Falls. Note: with Bicycles are allowed on Deep Creek Goldmine Loop Trail. You’ll pass chim- Area. You’ll pass the trailheads for two the opening of the Wears Valley section of and Indian Creek trails to the points neys and other remnants of home sites outstanding hiking trails—Hemphill Foothills Parkway (see page 1), this area where the old roadbeds end and the trail once occupied by farm families who lived Bald and Flat Creek. Either trail offers will be accessible from Wears Valley/Pigeon treads begin. here when was still the Little the opportunity to hike in a mile or Forge via 32 miles of scenic parkway. Deep Creek Picnic Area is open . Family names included two and return the way you came. Mileage from Townsend—26 year-round. The picnic pavilion can be Hall, Hyatt and Jenkins. After 2.6 miles of From the picnic area, you can continue from Gatlinburg—46 reserved at Recreation.gov. hiking, turn right onto the Tunnel Bypass onto one-way, gravel, beautiful Balsam from Cherokee—78 Mileage from Cherokee—14 Trail and proceed 0.5 mile to your vehicle Mountain Road for 13 miles, then from Gatlinburg—48 at the trailhead. another 14 miles on good roads back to 5. Deep Creek from Townsend—65 Mileage from Bryson City—9 the town of Cherokee. Highlights: walking trails, waterfalls, from Cherokee—20 Mileage from Cherokee—12 mountain biking from Gatlinburg—54 from Gatlinburg—45 The Deep Creek area is an off-the- from Townsend—62 beaten-path destination in the Great

Smokies Guide Fall 2018 • 4 Words with a Ranger PARK NEWS Great Smoky Mountains National Park news briefs continued from page 1 Road Closures are Part of Seasons in the Smokies ...Mountains National Park in February Temporary, weather-related road closures Service had pre-emptively closed the park drops 70 percent in winter, so it is of 2018. occur throughout the year in the Great road because of safety concerns. inefficient to keep all 277 miles of park My duties include managing the Smoky Mountains, but they are more Extreme cold causes snow and ice to roads open, especially the high-elevation Smokies’ webpage, webcams, program frequent in late autumn and winter. linger on mountain roads much longer and lesser-used roads that require winter fliers, and a host of other projects and Why? Wind, precipitation and cold than most park visitors realize. Icy patch- maintenance. Accordingly, seasonal road publications. I work with park managers are all amplified by mountains. Storms es on shaded curves high on Newfound closures (Clingmans Dome, Balsam and supervisors to create content for with winds around 100 m.p.h. blast the Gap Road create hazardous conditions Mountain and Rich Mountain) are the web site as well as messaging for Smokies almost every year, especially even when the weather is warm and scheduled. Happily, fewer than 20% of staff who meet park visitors. My chal- at the higher elevations. Whether these sunny in the valleys. park roads are closed for the entire winter lenge is to produce quality accessible events are linked to hurricane remnants, The number of people visiting the and most reopen by early April. information that is easy to understand severe thunderstorms or mountain wave for any audience. winds, they always result in scores of My role can be compared to that of downed trees that need to be removed. an interpretive ranger; I just commu- Newfound Gap receives around five nicate the messages and stories in a feet of snow during an average winter. different medium. I use visual graphics to Clingmans Dome Road records even convey the heritage and the natural and more snow and some 88 inches of total cultural history of the Smokies. Visitors precipitation per year. may not see me, but they will see my Rain can make roads impassable, work if they get on the Smokies web site, too. In January of 2013, torrential rains where I try to create fresh, vibrant and caused a 200-foot section of Newfound informative content. Gap Road to collapse down the moun- In order to support the park in a tainside. Fortunately the National Park results-oriented, customer-focused Balsam Mountain Road closes on October 29. Image by Bill Lea and efficient manner, I must be knowledgeable of park resources and Smokies Air Getting Clearer, Healthier, but Improvements Still Needed park audiences. I strive to implement In 2002, Great Smoky Mountains was A turning point came in 2008 Scenic views on the haziest days in the most effective techniques to help named America’s most polluted nation- when the Tennessee Valley Authority, the park have gone from an average our various audiences form their own al park by the National Parks Conser- responding to legal and public pres- of 9 miles in the late-1990s to around intellectual and emotional connections vation Association. During summer, sure, began installing effective pollu- 36 miles in 2016. Ground-level ozone to our park. when 50,000 or more people were tion control systems on some of its pollution, the type of smog that can I also have the important role of visiting per day, the air was hazardous coal-fired power plants near the park. permanently damage human lungs and conveying clear and effective safety to breathe and views were clouded by a TVA’s investment of over $5 billion forested ecosystems, has improved by messages throughout the park. My sulfur-laden haze. resulted in a 91% reduction in emis- more than 36 percent. job requires me to collaborate with “People came to the park for good sions of sulfur dioxide (which obscures Still, 12 higher-elevation moun- others to update maps and other proj- views and clean mountain air,” said views and acidifies streams) and an tain streams on the Tennessee side of ects using park service graphic identity Jim Renfro, the park’s air resources 87% reduction in nitrogen oxides (a the Smokies are so acidic they are in standards. I plan and support NPS specialist. “When they found out the cause of lung-searing ozone pollution). violation of Clean Water Act standards. headquarters’ plans and designs for air was bad and getting worse, they EPA rules requiring cleaner-burning Industry, vehicles and power plants will new interpretive displays for wanted to know why.” gasoline and diesel fuels and vehicle need to continue to lower sulfur and the Smokies. As air pollution worsened, more engines also helped to lower emissions. nitrogen emissions in order for those I love my job because of the mission and more individuals, physicians, or- “We’re now documenting some of streams, and the fish that live in them, of the park service, to preserve unim- ganizations, government agencies and our cleanest air to breathe and clear- to be healthy again. paired the natural and cultural resources elected officials put pressure on pollu- est skies to view our mountains ever You can check out the park’s air and values of the national park system tion-causing industries to abide by the recorded,” Renfro said. And as addi- quality on new webcams at Newfound for the enjoyment, education and inspi- Clean Air Act of 1970. They had 20 tional pollution control equipment Gap and Clingmans Dome, and at air ration of this and future generations. years’ worth of air quality data collect- and cleaner burning diesel fuels and quality stations at Purchase Knob and My goal is to convey all of the important ed by Renfro and others to document engines continue to be phased in, “the Look Rock. Visit nps.gov/grsm. messages behind this mission through the bad air and its sources. air is continuing to improve.” my graphic and artistic skills.

Smokies Guide Fall 2018 • 5 Why We Like Lichens in the Great Smoky Mountains By Becky Nichols id you know that if you get down Lichens are utilized by various Don your belly and look closely at animals as food and for shelter. lichens, you can see layered pagodas, For example, northern flying squirrels red hats, or bubble-gum pink speci- eat lichens and also line their nests mens? Taxonomists think lichens are so with them. Humans have used lichens important to biodiversity in the Smokies for hundreds of years for food, medi- that they named one in honor of park cine, cultural purposes and dyes. champion Dolly Parton. More recently, lichens have been Lichens come in many colors, used as indicators of environmental sizes and forms. They can grow change, particularly air quality. Lichens on surfaces in almost every absorb their nutrients directly environment on earth and from the atmosphere, so are found on trees, dead the more pollution in the wood, rocks or soil. The park air, in rain, or in dust, Globally, there are the more pollution the approximately 20,000 is home to lichens will absorb. species currently Lichen species have known to science and 924 species varying tolerances to many more are believed particular pollutants and to exist that have not yet of lichens they generally are most been discovered. sensitive to sulphur dioxides Lichens are made up of and metals. multiple organisms; the partnership Prior to the All Taxa Biodiversity usually involves two types of fungus that Inventory, the park had 341 lichen live with one or more partners that can species recorded and some lichenologists photosynthesize. The partner may be a considered this number to be a complete green alga and/or a cyanobacterium. listing of species in the park. Many more Lichens are composite units that do species have been found in the last 20 not resemble the individual organisms years, including an astounding 531 new living on their own. The algae or cyano- records for our park, and 52 species that bacteria uses sunlight to make nutrients are new to science. We now have a total for the fungus, while the fungus provides of 924 species—nearly three times what minerals, water and shelter. we started with.

Pileated woodpecker on lichen-covered tree. Illustration by Joey Heath Lichen on a dead branch Lichen on a rock Lichen on tree bark

Smokies Guide Fall 2018 • 6 Legacy of the Sycamores The history behind one of the Smokies’ beloved giants

By Shannon Welch giant stands behind the Oconaluftee history of feuding landowners, ax attacks AVisitor Center near Cherokee. and resilience. Another bends over the nearby river, Red maples are the most common reaching for a cool drink before fanning Smokies trees and tulip poplars are white limbs to the sky. Park visitors pass the tallest, but the American sycamore cameras and phones to strangers, arranging (Platanus occidentalis) is, on average, kids and grandparents for the perfect shot the most massive at ground level. Older of family and magnificent flora. The year sycamores develop hollow trunks, could be 1968 or 2018. a perfect refuge for both bears and Another more twisted specimen also humans. Stories abound of European gives visitors pause near settlers living inside hollow sycamore Visitor Center in Tennessee. This tree’s trees while building homes nearby. Instagram photos cannot tell its storied Cherokee people almost certainly did the same. Stark white upper branches lend the nickname “ghost tree” and make winter identification easy. A occasional battering flood led to such row of sycamore trees in contortion that a local hiking club gave a field reveals the presence it the name “Elf Tree.” of water, be it a spring or Rangers at both Oconaluftee and canoe-ready river. Sugarlands Visitor Centers are frequently But what about the asked, “So, how old are those trees?” ax attack? The gnarly sycamore Since part of the core is rotted, the exact on Fighting Creek Trail near age cannot be determined by counting Sugarlands gets its shape from a the rings in a core sample. Sycamores dispute between landowners. Trees are fast growers. Sun and water bring have historically been used as impressive size before other species, and boundary markers—and the beloved trees are likely little more this one was chosen for than 150 years old. What is certain is that purpose. Here the that sycamores are long-lived and can drama muddies a bit, easily surpass 250. The oldest specimens with one version telling have survived well beyond 400 years. of friendly branch pruning The three trees aren’t the park’s between neighbors to oldest, and certainly not the biggest, but clearly mark the tree, proximity to people with cameras has another portraying a earned them their place in the hearts and thorough chopping digital memories of thousands. Will they by one who disagreed live another 200 years? Will the toddlers with the property who pose for today’s photos stand with line. Either way, their great-grandchildren and admire the sycamores are tough, same trees? Future floods, pathogens and Top: The massive sycamore that stands and it re-sprouted. windstorms notwithstanding, the legacy beside the river near Oconaluftee Deliberate cutting in the of the Smokies sycamores continues to Visitor Center. Below: The Elf Tree near Sugarlands Visitor Center unfold, one camera click at a time. 1920s combined with the Illustration and photos by Shannon Welch

Smokies Guide Fall 2018 • 7 To Knoxville To I-40 To Newport ay SEVIERVILLE 321 w k r) Exit ar te s P in 443 ill w Hartford 32 th in o ed Fo os Cosby (cl Park View Exit 447 Fall/Winter 129 416 411 TENNESSEE 441 Exit 451 32 NORTH Facility Closures CAROLI MARYVILLE N PIGEON FORGE Cosby A Pittman Mount Center Cammerer ust as deciduous trees start dropping their leaves in 321 321 73 Hen Wallow Falls Mount 321 Gatlinburg Welcome Center Cammerer Trail 40 fall to get ready for winter, the National Park Service National Park il 321 ra J Roaring Fork Motor T Information Center Ga n prepares for winter by closing down some of its higher-ele- Nature Trail bes Mounta i ek Tra Cre il vation and more remote facilities. Here’s the plan: ig Big Creek Lo B Greenbrier w Ga Mouse Tr p 129 ail Creek 411 Walland Falls Roads Wears Valley GATLINBURG es Trail y Red light cad Note that all park roads, including Newfound Gap wa msey Cas To Chattanooga rk #8 Ra Ramsey Pa Mount Guyot Metcalf Bottoms Cataract Cascades Road (U.S. 441), may close temporarily for snow or other Little Brier Noah ‘Bud’ Ogle Place ls Gap Trail Falls il Townsend Fighting Creek Porters inclement weather at any time. h t Visitors Center 321 Little Trail Sugarlands Flat o Greenbrier Laurel Visitor Center Grotto CLOSED o School P F o Falls Laurel Falls T Falls r R r Mon.-Thurs. t Trail Road a illi e 73 in um r s Fern Branch Balsam Mountain Road closes October 29 bo Tr Ga w ail p Townsend r Maloney T C Trail Rive ra Fa re Falls Meigs Carlos il lls ek Heritage Point T n Clingmans Dome Road closes November 30 ra ia l Little Campbell i d Center Trai Falls l h a t Top Rainbow Mount c o nu Overlook a Cataloochee R st l PISGAH Forge Creek Road (in Cades Cove) closes December 31 T he Elkmont Le Conte a C Falls r L p Valley e itt Alum Cave in m le p Cataloochee NATIONAL a R Overlook Heintooga Ridge Road closes October 30 Schoolhouse o i Trail A t v K C e n Gap Trail n uc r Alum Cave R FOREST Look Rock u t um T o R GSM Institute ber ra A in Gap T i ta Little Greenbrier Road (to the Little Greenbrier M d l rail l Blu s Charlies n R P u

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h r Bunion d T m c i k e alsa Boogerman R e B Schoolhouse) closes November 26 r L Loop s C A C Lynn Camp e o k Chimney N Trail ve a J O R Cr Prong Cascades Newfound I o e Tops a Parson Branch Road (in Cades Cove) closed due to T d ek A Trail A br Middle Prong N am Gap hazardous trees. s Trail F Abrams a ll Abrams s

T Kephart r Rich Mountain Road (in Cades Cove) closes Creek Falls a Oconaluftee Exit 20 i l Prong G REAT Valley Trail November 12 SMOKY MOUNTAINS Overlook Chasteen Cades Cove r T

k Creek Falls Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail closes November 26 Visitor Center r o Smokemont Clingmans F H i e Cades Cove t Loop i To a n 276 n Trail t Roundbottom/Straight Fork roads close October 29 Dome Ka o Heintooga Ridge/ Asheville o

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R D a Mill e seasonal road closures. Walking on seasonally closed roads i lu Oconaluftee B Valley h Restrooms are available c Visitor Center a is permitted unless snow plowing or construction work is l Bone Valley at all park campgrounds, visitor centers, 19 129 a Trail p picnic areas, including Metcalf Bottoms near

underway. p Mountain Oconaluftee River A The Sinks, Newfound Gap and Great Smoky

Trail Mountains Institute at Tremont. Vault toilets, Farm Museum Soco Gap port-o-johns and other facilities are also CHEROKEE INDIAN RESERVATION Twentymile Hazel Creek available at some of the most popular 441 Riding Stables Trail Calderwood Loop Trail trailheads, including Clingmans Dome, Cherokee Museum Wolf l CHEROKEE Lake i Rainbow Falls, Grotto Falls, Abrams Falls and Loop Cades Cove closes November 30 Ridge a Indian r CHEROKEE Trail T the Townsend “Wye.” Trail Deals ile Creek Falls m WAYNESVILLE Smokemont closes November 4 NATIONAL enty Goldmine Juney Whank Falls Gap Tw Loop Tom Branch Falls 19 Juney Whank FOREST Twentymile Trail La Smoky Mountain (on U.S. 321 near Gatlinburg) closes Fontana ke Falls Trail Lake Cascade F vie Cheoah Dam ontana w Horseback Hiking Trails November 25 Lak Dr E e Riding (rental) E SS A Deep 441 Paved Roads Sugarlands closes November 25 E IN N L BRYSON N O Twentymile Creek E R Camping Gravel Roads T A CITY C A Swain County H FONTANA pp 28 Great Mountain Views Grist Mills T al Visitor Center B R ac 74 l O VILLAGE h u N ia Picnic Area e

n Fall Auto Tours Cable Mill (in Cades Cove) closes October 31

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Mingus Mill closes October 31

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28 NANTAHALA NATIONAL FOREST ©GSMA2018 143 441 23 To Knoxville To I-40 To Newport ay SEVIERVILLE 321 w k r) Exit ar te s P in 443 ill w Hartford CHEROKEE NATIONAL FOREST 32 th in o ed Fo os Cosby (cl Park View Exit 447 129 416 411 TENNESSEE 441 Exit 451 32 NORTH C MARYVILLE AROLIN PIGEON FORGE Cosby A Pittman Mount Center Cammerer 321 321 73 Hen Wallow Falls Mount 321 Gatlinburg Welcome Center Cammerer Trail 40 National Park il 321 Roaring Fork Motor ra T Information Center Ga n Nature Trail bes Mounta i ek Tra Cre il

ig Big Creek Lo B Greenbrier w Ga Mouse Tr p 129 ail Creek 411 Walland Falls Wears Valley GATLINBURG es Trail y Red light cad wa msey Cas To Chattanooga rk #8 Ra Ramsey Pa Mount Guyot Metcalf Bottoms Cataract Cascades Little Brier Noah ‘Bud’ Ogle Place ls Gap Trail Falls il Townsend Fighting Creek h Porters t Visitors Center 321 Little Trail Sugarlands Flat o Greenbrier Laurel Visitor Center Grotto CLOSED o School P F o Falls Laurel Falls T Falls r R r Mon.-Thurs. t Trail Road a illi e 73 in um r s Fern Branch bo Tr Ga w ail p Townsend r Maloney T C Trail Rive ra Fa re Falls Meigs Carlos il lls ek Heritage Point T n ra ia l Little Campbell i d Center Trai Falls l h a t Top Rainbow Mount c o nu Overlook a Cataloochee R st l PISGAH he T Elkmont Le Conte a C Falls r L p Valley e it Alum Cave n m tl p NATIONAL i e Cataloochee Overlook a Schoolhouse R Trail A t o iv K C e n Gap Trail n uc r Alum Cave R FOREST Look Rock u t um T o R GSM Institute ber ra A in Gap ta Tr i R M d l ail l Blu s Charlies P un

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h r Bunion d T m c i k e alsa Boogerman R e B r L Loop s C A C Lynn Camp e o k Chimney N Trail ve a J O R Cr Prong Cascades Newfound I o e Tops a Chimney Tops T d ek A Trail A br Middle Prong N am Gap s Trail F Abrams a ll Abrams s

T Kephart r Creek Falls a Oconaluftee Exit 20 i l Prong G REAT Valley Trail SMOKY MOUNTAINS Overlook Chasteen Cades Cove r T

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R D a Mill e i lu Oconaluftee B Valley h Restrooms are available c Visitor Center a l Bone Valley at all park campgrounds, visitor centers, 19 129 a Trail p picnic areas, including Metcalf Bottoms near

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Trail Mountains Institute at Tremont. Vault toilets, Farm Museum Soco Gap port-o-johns and other facilities are also CHEROKEE INDIAN RESERVATION Twentymile Hazel Creek available at some of the most popular 441 Trail Calderwood Loop Trail trailheads, including Clingmans Dome, Cherokee Museum Wolf l CHEROKEE Lake i Rainbow Falls, Grotto Falls, Abrams Falls and a Loop Ridge r Indian CHEROKEE Trail T the Townsend “Wye.” Trail Deals ile Creek Falls m WAYNESVILLE NATIONAL enty Goldmine Juney Whank Falls Gap Tw Loop Tom Branch Falls 19 Juney Whank FOREST Twentymile Trail La Fontana ke Falls Trail Lake Cascade F vie Cheoah Dam ontana w Horseback Hiking Trails Lak Dr E e Riding (rental) E SS A Deep 441 Paved Roads E IN N L BRYSON N O Twentymile Creek E R Camping Gravel Roads T A CITY C A Swain County H FONTANA pp 28 Great Mountain Views T al Visitor Center B R ac 74 l O VILLAGE h u N ia Picnic Area e

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JOYCE T e r KILMER - SLICKROCK a P i 23 a WILDERNESS AREA l r 74 k 129 w ay Santeetlah Lake SYLVA

28 NANTAHALA NATIONAL FOREST ©GSMA2018 143 441 23 of the Fittest

Photo by Joye Ardyn Durham SurvivalThe annual fall frenzy is about food and finding a mate By Florie Takaki umans have a fair amount of control over what we eat and how we mate, whereas animals have very little. HFor animals that den or hibernate, it is imperative to have enough nutrients to be able to survive not only the winter season, but also the spring when they emerge to find that only limited food is available.

Snoozing bears In late fall, after the mast crop of nuts Yellow jackets and their larvae are high in Cataloochee just after the turn of Denning animals like Ursus ameri- and berries is gone and the tempera- protein and a bear can easily use its claws the millennia. There are now elk in the canus, the American black bear, are tures and sunlight change, a fecal plug to turn back the dirt and gorge on the Balsam Mountain and Oconaluftee not true hibernators in this region, develops and the bear no longer eats or nest. How can the bears do this without areas of the park. Although these but snoozers. If you disturb their den, drinks for the winter season. In the spring their mouths getting stung? They do creatures seem docile during most of they will awaken and stare back at you. when the bears exit their dens, the first get stung, but enzymes in their saliva the year, by mid-August a change starts In warm winters, they may even walk thing they do is drink, releasing the fecal counteract the stings, allowing the bear and by mid-September the change is around a bit. plug, and hunger begins. Here is when it to eat until full. dramatic and the rut is on. To prepare for denning, bears in this is critical to have consumed enough food Female elk, or cows, are ready to area often put on as much as 25 percent the previous fall in order to develop the Rutting elk mate in the fall and come into estrus increased body weight. Many people fat reserves needed to survive early spring. While black bear are the animal twice, typically between the end of believe this is to help ‘feed’ the bear When you hike during autumn, most visitors come to the mountains August and the beginning of November. through the winter. Interestingly enough, you may see yellow jackets swarming to see, elk are a close second. Manitoba Changing hormones starting in late much of that fat is used after the bears on the side of the trail. You can be sure elk were reintroduced to the park after August cause the neck of the male elk, emerge from their dens in the spring a black bear has raided the hive. What three decades of research and public or bull, to swell significantly. Aggression when food is scarce. the bear is after is the larvae and insects. input. Fifty-two elk were brought into increases during rut, producing

Smokies Guide Fall 2018 • 10 hormonal changes that can cause them size and antlers, but mostly to support during the day may have often been fed But we all have a responsibility— to use their antlers to gore small trees, the energy used to keep other males human food and no longer have fear of both rangers and visitors—to be aware shrubbery and even the grassy earth. away from cows. They often lose up to humans. They may have lost their ability of and abide by the rules and regulations Antlers fall off each year in March 200 pounds, or 20 percent of their body to find enough natural food to survive developed to protect and sustain the as the next season’s antlers are already weight, during the rut; therefore, the denning or they may simply find stealing natural world. growing. The new tissue is living, and male needs to be in prime condition. human food is easier than foraging on Through our ability to control our it looks as if the antler is soft and fuzzy, Cows must also be in healthy condition their own. Becoming desensitized to us, actions, we can help these creatures thus the term ‘velvet’ is used to describe to support pregnancy. If a cow is not in bears will either starve to death over the remain wild. By keeping human food the new set of antlers. By late summer, peak condition, she may not become coming winter and spring, or they will away from them, staying at least 50 the blood flow to the antler closes and pregnant or may not come in to estrus need to be destroyed because they have yards (half a football field) back, and the velvet falls off, exposing a bone-like until October, or not at all. become a physical danger to people. using the zoom lenses on our cameras material that is the antler the bull will use The same can be said for elk. and phones to take pictures, we may be to display superiority and ward off other Zooming humans Aggressive bulls are looking to confront saving their lives. This is their home and males during rut. Bears, and more noticeably elk, live anything that looks like a threat to we are fortunate to be allowed to work In mid-September, the bull elk is at in a constant state of anxiety during the mating. It may be a bush, a young bull, and visit here. his prime for mating and will remain in fall feeding and mating frenzy. People a true dominant bull looking to usurp this state for up to 30 days. His desire can become a hindrance to these animals the current contender, or a person just References: to mate is so intense that often the bull through their excitement and desire to looking for a better photo. Bulls have The Encyclopedia of Tracks and Scat, cannot differentiate another bull from witness these creatures during such an even attacked vehicles, causing signif- by Len McDougal, The Lyons Press, a car or a human. This makes the rut intense natural spectacle. icant damage. Guilford, Connecticut, 2004 season an exceptionally dangerous time, Unfortunately, when an animal Nature has prepared creatures with both for the elk and for visitors. becomes habituated to humans—eating many unique and remarkable abilities Elk, Jack Ballard, Falcon Guides, Cows with calves spend considerable human food and no longer fearing to reproduce and prepare for continuing Guilford, Connecticut, 2012 energy keeping themselves and their humans—it can cause that animal’s their species. Humans possess a calves out of the way of bulls in rut. This death. So keeping human food away remarkable desire to experience and Mammals of the Smokies, Great Smoky intense rivalry between males—and from bears and elk is of utmost impor- understand the world in which Mountains Association, Gatlinburg, moms protecting their calves—allows tance to their survival. Should they we live. National parks provide a place TN, 2009 little time for grazing. Concentration become dependent on human food, they for nature to be fully protected while on consuming enough calories is critical no longer search for their native food, allowing people to connect with the Living with Bears Handbook, Linda for the elk prior to rut season. Bulls add which has the correct nutritional value. natural world. Masterson, PixyJack Press, Inc, weight to support their increasing neck Bears that start to appear regularly Masonville, CO., 2016 FREE, FUN THINGS TO DO Programs and activities in Great Smoky Mountains National Park September 16 - October 27, 2018 MEETING DURATION/ WHEN? SUGARLANDS/ELKMONT/COSBY AREA LOCATION DIFFICULTY Get away from the hustle and bustle on an easy stroll with a ranger to Daily 1.5 hours A Walk in the Woods: Sugarlands Visitor Center Patio discover stories of history and nature along this scenic, wooded trail. 10:30 a.m. Easy 30 minutes Did you know that the Smokies is one of the most diverse places Daily Junior Ranger – Porch Talk: Sugarlands Visitor Center Patio Easy in the world? Join a ranger to learn more during this “Ranger’s Choice” style program. 2 p.m. h

: The Smokies are home to more than 130 species of trees. Explore the dramatic Sundays 1.5 hours Branching Out Elkmont Nature Trail forest and find out what the trees can tell us about their ecosystem. 10 a.m. Easy

Nature’s Narrative: The forest is full of stories if you’ll only stop to listen. Learn about the area Sundays Cove Hardwood Nature Trail 1 hour and discover signs of the past on this moderate, 3/4-mile loop hike. 1:30 p.m. (inside Chimneys Picnic Area) Moderate 45 minutes Wildlife is an agent of change. Join a ranger to learn about fire’s effect on Sundays A Resilient Forest: Carlos Campbell Overlook Easy the landscape. 2 p.m. h

Join a ranger for a morning walk as we look and listen for, and learn Mondays 1 hour Birding for Beginners: Trailhead more about, the birds of the forest. Times vary Easy

Little River Evening Amble: Join a ranger at twilight to explore intriguing transformations Mondays 1 hour within the Smokies as daylight wanes to darkness. Limited to 25 participants. Call 865.436.1291 Little River Trailhead 7:30 p.m. Easy up to 4 days in advance to make reservations.

Smokies Guide Fall 2018 • 11 MEETING DURATION/ WHEN? SUGARLANDS/ELKMONT/COSBY AREA (CONTINUED) LOCATION DIFFICULTY Challenge your senses and experience the mystery of the Smokies after Tuesdays 1 hour Sugarlands Night Hike: Sugarlands Visitor Center Patio dark. Limited to 25 participants. Call 865.436.1291 up to 4 days in advance to make reservations. 8 p.m. Easy Junior Ranger – Aw Shucks!: Come and experience the art of making a simple cornshuck Wednesdays 45 minutes doll while gaining historical insight of the diversity of corn in the region. Limited to 25 participants. Sugarlands Visitor Center Patio 1 p.m. Easy Call 865.436.1291 up to 4 days in advance to make reservations. Crafts of the Smokies: Come watch a ranger demonstrate crafts common to the mountain people Wednesdays 1.5 hours of Southern Appalachia. You will learn about the importance of these activities in the lives of those who Sugarlands Visitor Center Patio 10 a.m. Easy lived here and maybe even be inspired to do some of your own! All ages are welcome!

Coffee with a Ranger: Start your morning with a ranger and a cup of joe to hear what’s Thursdays & Saturdays Locations vary at coffee shops 1 hour happening in the park and plan your day’s activities. 8 a.m. throughout Gatlinburg, TN h Easy Tree Tales: Enjoy a leisurely half-mile hike with a ranger while learning about forest ecology Thursdays 1 hour and the importance of trees to the mountain people. End the hike with a leaf rubbing of your own. Sugarlands Valley Nature Trail 3 p.m. Easy Limited to 25 participants. Call 865.436.1291 up to 4 days in advance to make reservations. h Soak in sweeping views near the summit of the Smokies’ highest peak as Islands in the Sky: 45 minutes you learn about this unique environment, discover some of the park’s most influential people, or Fridays Viewing area below Easy hear stories behind its place names. Topics vary but you’re sure to be inspired by the stories behind 11 a.m. Clingmans Dome Visitor Center h the scenery.

Fall is a time of great and vibrant change in the Smokies. Fridays 1 hour Science Behind the Seasons: Newfound Gap Come learn the science behind the seasons, why things change and when they do. 2:30 p.m. h Easy Fridays & Saturdays 45 minutes Join a ranger for a National Park Service tradition—the evening Check at Sugarlands Visitor Evening Campfire: Elkmont Campground Easy campfire program. Topics vary but you’re guaranteed to learn something new about the Smokies! Center or Campground Office h for program times METCALF BOTTOMS AREA

Junior Ranger – School Days at Little Greenbrier: Go back in time to discover what it Tuesdays 1 hour was like to live in a mountain community and go to school in a one-room schoolhouse. Fun for all Little Greenbrier School 11 a.m. & 2 p.m. Easy ages, and great for Junior Rangers. Please arrive 15 minutes before program start; space is limited. OCONALUFTEE AREA

Coffee with a Ranger: Join a park ranger for a cup of coffee and find out what’s happening Sundays Oconaluftee Visitor 1 hour in the park! Topics may vary based on visitor interests and things going on in the park. Coffee pro- 10:30 a.m. Center Porch h Easy vided. Bring a cup if you have one.

Walk down to the Mountain Farm Museum and see what past-time settlers Sundays 1 hour Down on the Farm: Mountain Farm Museum may have been engaged in, such as gardening, woodworking, or other endeavors. Activities vary. 2:30 p.m. h Easy 30 minutes It’s time for the elk to get amorous! Learn about the rut and what that means Tuesdays Oconaluftee Visitor What’s the Rut?: Easy for the elk. 10:30 a.m. Center Porch h 30 minutes Bears! That’s what! Join a ranger to learn how the bears Tuesdays Oconaluftee Visitor What’s Big, Black and Stinky?: Easy prepare for winter in the Smokies. 2:30 p.m. Center Porch h Nuts were fair, berries were late. Several Forecasting the Future with Mother Nature: 30 minutes morning fogs and rings around the moon in August. Does this mean a hard winter or a mild one? Wednesdays Oconaluftee Visitor Easy What about snow this year? How did people in the past use nature to forecast the upcoming winter? 11 a.m. Center Porch h Join park staff and explore the possibilities this year. 30 minutes Join a park ranger to get the buzz on honeybees, taste a sample of Thursdays Oconaluftee Visitor Long Live the Queen!: Easy nature’s pure food, and size up beehives from then and now. 10:30 a.m. Center Porch h A History of the White Blaze: Did you know 72 miles of the Appalachian Trail goes through 45 minutes Thursdays Oconaluftee Visitor the Great Smoky Mountains National Park? Join a park ranger to learn about this iconic footpath Easy 2:30 p.m. Center Porch and its pioneers! The Benton MacKaye and Mountains-to-Sea Trails will also be discussed. h 30 minutes Wonder what there is to see and do in the Smokies? Join a park ranger to Fridays Oconaluftee Visitor Explore the Smokies: Easy find out all the park has to offer! 10:30 a.m. Center Porch h Smokies Guide Fall 2018 • 12 MEETING DURATION/ WHEN? OCONALUFTEE AREA (CONTINUED) LOCATION DIFFICULTY 30 minutes Otters and beavers and bears, oh my! Join a ranger for a Fridays Oconaluftee Visitor Junior Ranger – Mammal Mania: Easy hands-on discovery of mammals in the park. 2:30 p.m. Center Porch h A Walk Back in Time – Kephart Prong Hike: The Civilian Conservation Corp helped build this park. Learn about the major impact the CCC had on the development of the Great Smoky Saturdays 1 hour Kephart Prong Trail Mountains National Park while we explore the remains of 411’s CCC camp. Discover visible signs 10:30 a.m. Easy, 1-mile walk and what life was like. 30 minutes Discover why the Smokies is considered the “Salamander Saturdays Oconaluftee Visitor Salamanders of the Smokies: Easy Capital of the World.” 3:30 p.m. Center Porch h CATALOOCHEE AREA Junior Ranger – Smoky Mountain Elk: It’s all about connection and balance in nature to 45 minutes Sundays Palmer House ensure survival for elk and other species living together in an ecosystem. Learn about the history of the Easy 3:30 p.m. Cataloochee Valley elk through “show and tell” activities. Then stay and watch the elk arrive in the fields! h Saturdays 45 minutes Seasons of the Elk: Join park staff to learn about the largest animal in the park. Discover charac- Palmer House Sept. 22, Oct. 13 & 20 Easy teristics, seasonal behaviors and park regulations so you can have a more positive viewing experience. Cataloochee Valley 3:30 p.m. h CADES COVE AREA

Because of slow moving traffic it may take over an hour to drive six miles from the start of Cades Cove Loop Road to programs at the Cades Cove Visitor Center/Cable Mill Area. Plan accordingly.

10 minutes Experience what it was like to grind corn into meal at the gristmill. Daily John P. Cable Mill: Cable Mill Area Easy Cable Mill area is halfway around the Cades Cove loop road. 9 p.m. – 5 p.m. h Junior Ranger Program: Join a park ranger for a hands-on exploration of the Smokies. 45 minutes Saturdays & Sundays Cades Cove Visitor Center/ Participation counts towards credit for earning a Junior Ranger badge. Visitor Center is halfway Easy 1 p.m. Cable Mill Area around the Cades Cove loop road. h 45 minutes A talk and hands-on demonstration about the wild things in the park. Saturdays & Sundays Cades Cove Visitor Center/ WILD by Design: Easy Visitor Center is halfway around the Cades Cove loop road. 2:30 p.m. Cable Mill Area h Precious Memories: Go back in time to discover how the church influenced the Cove and Tuesdays Cades Cove Primitive 30 minutes its residents. 11 a.m. & 1 p.m. Baptist Church Easy SPECIAL PROGRAMS

Saturdays Back Porch Old-Time Music Jam: Bring an acoustic instrument and join in on this old- Oconaluftee Visitor 2 hours time jam. Or just sit back and enjoy the sights and sounds as others play traditional Appalachian music. Oct. 6 & 20, Nov. 17 Center Porch Easy 1 p.m. h Cades Cove Old-Timers’ Day: Listen to first-hand stories and yarns about the Great Smoky Saturday, September 29 Cades Cove Visitor Center Easy Mountains National Park and communities that made the area their home.Wear comfortable shoes. h Science at Sugarlands: Join a scientist on the third Friday of the month to learn about and Fridays engage in ongoing scientific research happening inside Great Smoky Mountains National Park. 2 hours September 21 & October 19 Sugarlands Visitor Center Topics vary each month. September 21: October 19: Easy Butterflies and Caterpillars in the Smokies; Beetles 1 p.m. of the Smokies. Cades Cove Star Party with the Smoky Mountain Astronomical Society: Escape the city lights and observe the heavenly objects of the night sky. Join the rangers for an evening of viewing stars Saturday, September 15 1.5 – 2 hours with equipment and instruction provided by the SMAS. Orientation shelter is at the beginning of the Cades Cove Orientation Shelter 7:30 p.m. Easy, 1-mile walk loop road. Event is weather permitting and will be canceled in case of rain and/or heavy clouds. Call 865.448.4122 for updates. Bring a jacket, red-covered flashlight and comfortable walking shoes.

Saturdays & Sundays Blacksmith building near the Blacksmith Demonstrations: Learn the art of blacksmithing and why it was important in the Ongoing 6 hours Sept. 22 & 23, Oct. 20 & 21 Cades Cove Visitor Center/Cable Cades Cove community. Visitor Center is halfway around the Cades Cove loop road. Easy 10 a.m. Mill area Sept. 1, 2, 3, 14, 15,16, Sorghum Mill near the Cades Sorghum Making Demonstrations: Meet the mules and learn about the process of making Ongoing 6 hours 21 & 23 Cove Visitor Center/ sorghum molasses the old-time way. Visitor Center is halfway around the Cades Cove loop road. Easy 10 a.m. Cable Mill area

Smokies Guide Fall 2018 • 13 IF YOU LOVE THE SMOKIES Join the park’s partners in helping to protect this place for ourselves and future generations

Great Smoky Mountains adults who long to get out and explore The information is then logged into a • Hands-on, curriculum-based Association the park accompanied by expert guides. database that shows what’s here, where in environmental education for school Since 1953, Great Smoky Programs are offered by the Smoky the park it has been reported and what children in Western Mountains Association Mountain Field School and include Mt. other creatures are associated with it. and has supported the Le Conte overnights and workshops DLIA recruits legions of volunteers • Facilities and educational, scientific on wildlife, edible plants, wildflower and interns to become ‘citizen scientists’ improvements and historical efforts photography, animal tracking, bird who help with the work. These partici- to maintain a of the National Park watching, salamanders and mountain pants get an insider’s look at the park, as world-class Service through cash cooking. One-day programs start at as well as firsthand knowledge of biology, visitor experience donations and in-kind little as $79. Contact: 865.974.0150 or field science and laboratory practices. • Historic pres- services. By the end of 2018 visit smfs.utk.edu. Funding for DLIA comes mostly from ervation of cabins, alone, the association will have provided donations from individuals and institu- churches and mills more than $2 million in assistance that Great Smoky Mountains tions as well as facility support provided in Cades Cove and Cataloochee Valley includes saving hemlock trees, living Institute at Tremont by the national park. To learn more, Your support of Friends of the history demonstrations, environmental Great Smoky Mountains Institute at visit DLIA.org. Smokies makes these projects and so education programs, historic preserva- Tremont provides residential environ- much more possible. tion, and salaries for wildlife personnel. mental education Friends of the Smokies And it’s easy to become a Friend! Association members receive a programs in Great Friends of the Smokies is an official Make a donation and become number of benefits to keep them Smoky Mountains nonprofit partner of the National Park a member today at FriendsOf informed about special events in the National Park. Up Service and Great Smoky Mountains TheSmokies.org, purchase a specialty park and issues affecting the Smokies: to 5,000 students National Park that helps to raise funds license plate at BearPlate.org, or join • Subscription to the semi-annual, and adults and public awareness and provide FOTS for one of its special events full-color magazine Smokies Life annually attend volunteers for park projects. like the Evergreen Ball or Smokies • Digital access to the award-win- workshops and school programs at the Since 1993, Friends of the Smokies Stomp Barn Party. Your donations ning quarterly park newspaper, Smokies Institute. Tremont’s adult workshops has raised $62 million to support help preserve and protect Great Smoky Guide, and the association’s newsletter, include birding, backpacking, envi- critical park projects and programs Mountains National Park for genera- The Bearpaw ronmental education, teacher escapes, including: tions to come. For more information, • A 15-20% discount on books, naturalist weekends and photography. • Management and research of visit FriendsOfTheSmokies.org or call music, gifts and other products sold at GSMI at Tremont also offers a variety bears, elk, native brook trout and toll-free 800.845.5665. park visitor centers and at GSMA’s of summer youth camps in the national other wildlife web store park lasting from 6-11 days and starting • Intensive rehabilitation projects • Special GSMA “Hiking 101” at $589. Fees include meals, lodging on the park’s most-impacted hiking outings to Twentymile Loop, Porters and most equipment. Upcoming offer- trails like Alum Cave, Chimney Tops Creek, , Boogerman Trail, ings include Discovery Camp (ages and Rainbow Falls , cemeteries, and more. 9-12), Wilderness Adventure Trek, All hikes are led by knowledgeable Girls in Science (ages 12-15), and Teen staff who love to share the park with High Adventure (ages 13-17). Contact GSMA MEMBERS SIGN ME UP! others. Groups are limited to 20 people. 865.448.6709 or visit gsmit.org. Get Rooted in the Smokies! Name(s) ______Also this year, ask us about Gear Fest programs and special gear discounts. Discover Life in America q Acorn (youth) Membership $15 ______Join today using the coupon to the The Smokies are known for their biodi- q Buckeye Annual Membership $35 Address ______right, visit SmokiesInformation.org, or versity and DLIA formed 20 years ago to q Chestnut Annual Membership $100 call us at 888.898.9102 x349. Member- identify every variety of plant and animal ______ships start at just $35 per year. in the park. The organization involves q Dogwood Membership $200 Email (for Cub Report) ______leading biologists from around the globe q Hemlock Lifetime Membership $1,000 ______Smoky in collecting payable in 5 installments Phone # ______Mountain specimens in the q Lookout League Business Memberships Field School park and identi- Please include your check with this form. $250-$10,000 Mail to: GSMA, P.O. Box 130, An exciting variety fying what Gatlinburg, TN 37738 of adventures awaits they found.

Smokies Guide Fall 2018 • 14 Treading Lightly in the Backcountry Tips from the insiders on how to treat the park

Illustration by Emma DuFort Q: How about “travel and camp on impacts of your adventure. You need to A: Yes, and everything else natural durable surfaces”? What does that mean? be prepared to bury your solid waste in that you see. Leaving things like rocks A: Since there are so many people a cat hole (6-8 inches deep) or use one in place protects our smaller forms of that recreate in the Smokies, we have of the backcountry privies, if available. wildlife. Even moving rocks around, designated trails and campsites in order But, anything we bring with us has the especially in streams, impacts habitat. to concentrate the impact. If we step off potential to become ‘waste’ if we leave it We also want to preserve history by a trail or create a new spot for our tent, behind. The key is to “pack it in, pack it respecting the cultural artifacts that are we are going to impact the vegetation out” and that means taking everything found throughout the park. and, once damaged, it often will not out—even crumbs, peels and apple cores. Q: Minimize campfire impacts? grow back. It is also important to keep water clean A: Campfires can have lasting impacts any folks who love camping want to Q: Oh yuck. “Dispose of waste properly”? by not introducing anything like soap or on the environment and Leave No Trace Mgo deep into the woods, away from A: Yes, if you are out in the food into the streams. promotes the use of candle lanterns civilization—to the backcountry. But just backcountry for an extended period, Q: And “leave what you find”? Does and camp stoves rather than fires. Still, because these areas of the park are out of there are going to be unavoidable that include rocks and pine cones? Leave No Trace ethics does not say “no” sight doesn’t mean they are out of to campfires, but rather focuses on mind where our park rangers are the ways to minimize the impacts if concerned. We asked Backcountry you are going to have one. It is best Management Specialist Christine to use established fire rings, make Hoyer to help clarify the impor- mound- or pan-fires, and keep the tance of following Leave No Trace fires small. Be sure that the fire is guidelines. completely out and cold before you Q: I know there are seven leave it. universal Leave No Trace principals Q: Respect wildlife? Even snakes? for hiking, camping, and recreating A: Yes, respecting wildlife in the backcountry. How does “plan applies to all the animals that call ahead and prepare” apply specifically this place home, even the snakes, to the Smokies? which provide us many benefits. It is A: It is important to know both important to observe larger wildlife what to bring and what to leave from a distance and never approach, behind when planning any kind feed or follow them. Protecting of outdoor recreation—to keep them from our food and trash you safe and ensure you enjoy your and following the pet regulations adventure. Here in the Smokies, throughout the park will help to it is important to have clothing keep them wild. for changing weather conditions, Q: Be considerate of others? to carry food, water and a map, to Define “considerate.” know your route and its challenges A: Leave No Trace ethics focus (Are there stream crossings? Is on respecting three things—the it uphill the whole way?) and land, wildlife and other visitors. In think about what to do in an a place as busy as the Smokies, the emergency. A great way to plan impact of our presence can be very ahead is visit a park visitor center All food, trash, clothing, equipment and personal disruptive to others. By avoiding or call our Backcountry Office loud noises and letting the sounds of (865.436.1297) so we can help items must be packed out. Burning food, trash nature prevail, yielding to others on Please include your check with this form. you plan your hike, share infor- the trail, and just being courteous, Mail to: GSMA, P.O. Box 130, or anything other than dead wood is prohibited. Gatlinburg, TN 37738 mation about current conditions we can all do our part. and answer your questions.

Smokies Guide Fall 2018 • 15 VISITOR INFORMATION For more information, go to nps.gov/grsm

Exit 417

Primary Alt. Rt. Secondary Alt. Rt.

(closed in 2018)

) vehicles

(closed to motor

SWAIN COUNTY VISITOR CENTER

© GSMA-18

Information Emergencies Hospitals Haywood County All-access Avoid the fine General park info: For emergencies after hours: Le Conte/Sevier County 828.456.7311 Restrooms at park visitor Picking or digging plants is prohibited in the park. 865.436.1200 • nps.gov/grsm Park Headquarters 865.446.7000 Waynesville, NC centers (Cades Cove, Backcountry information: Middle Creek Rd., Oconaluftee and Sugarlands) Persons feeding wildlife 865.436.9171 Swain County are subject to a $5,000 fine. 865.436.1297 Sevierville, TN are fully accessible. 828.488.2155 Pets are only permitted smokiespermits.nps.gov Cherokee Police Sugarlands Valley all-access 828.497.4131 Blount Memorial Bryson City, NC on the Gatlinburg and To order maps and guides: 865.983.7211 nature trail is on Newfound Oconaluftee River trails, 865.436.7318 x226 Gatlinburg Police U.S. 321, Maryville, TN Gap Road just south of which allow dogs on SmokiesInformation.org 865.436.5181 Sugarlands Visitor Center. a leash.