Traditional Food & Beverages of

ll living beings live by food. The staple food of the Sri Lankan Prof. A. Nimal F. Perera ("Sabbesaththa aharatthika") is . Rice is obtained from the AIn. other words, food is paddy plant. Paddy was also known A. Nimhani K. Perera as "salee* in the past. Paddy essential for our existence. Wayamba University of included two broad categories; "Maa Moreover, the great sages of ancient Sri Lanka, Kutiyapitiya times [Hrishis) have declared that wee" and "EI wee". Various our disposition and qualities evidence points out that there had depend on the food that we take. been more than 1500 traditional Prof. E.R. Kalyani Perera Further, there are three categories paddy varieties. The rice prepared University of Peradeniya, of persons according to their food from these different paddy varieties Peradentya. preferences; the righteous and was diverse in taste, aroma and gentle " Sathvikas" prefer soft and their nutritional values. In addition delicious food, rough, nonchalant to rice, other grains containing sweetmeats, fish and meat. and indulgent "Rajasikas" prefer carbohydrates, such as millet, ("maalu") were complementary for acidic, hot and spiced food, and the paspahun scrobicultatum ("amtf), com, lazy, less enthusiastic and less maize, barley, and eleusine coraoana the rice and hence it was known as intelligent "Thamasikas", savor ("kurakkan') were also used widely. "boJhmaaht (rice and curries). In the unclean and stale food. Green gram, cow pea, long beans, consumption of rice and curries, masurg, lentil, koJJu, and gingili were drinking of water ["bath pert) was Food and beverages and their essential capsular ["shimbf) grains also essential. Drinking water was consumption in Sri Lanka have a of the traditional food. These grains usually filtered clean water. long history and tradition. The were extensively cultivated in the Drinking water was retained in traditional Sri Lankan's did not dry lands [chena], and they were various containers or pitchers consume food solely for the commonly known as "katusard* known as "kothalaya*, "kendiya", purpose of nutrition, but also as for (coarse) food crops. "guruleththuwa", or kalaya (pot) and many therapeutic reasons. shells were used as mugs Therefore, the food was consumed The main difference between the in the drinking. The portion of rice with multipurpose objectives. Due normal grains such as paddy and and curries that were taken away to this reason, those Sri Lankans the capsular *shimbi* food crops for the consumption in another were able to built giant tanks and was that the latter was richer in place was known as "bathmula" colossal sthupas, fight and prevent proteins, and therefore specially (parcel of rice). The rice served on foreign invasions, and to create a included in the diet of babies, leaves of the lotus plant, "kendo" ( prosperous country by the growing children and expecting and Makarangapeltata) plant or plantain development of agriculture. nursing mothers. was known as "bathpatha". Rice was also served in a bowl (paathraya) or Hon. Walpola Rahula Thera, in his Food habits of the traditional man a plate (thetiya). When the book "Buddhist History of Sri were determined by the chieftains were served with Lanka" has stated that Sinhalese requirements of the occasion. The "bathpatha*, it was held on a stand of the past never starved and farmer who leaves the home early known as *serukkalaya"'. Special consumed three meals per day. Rice in the morning to work in his paddy bowl used to retain gruel was was their staple food while various field or "chena" required a heavy diet known as "hambu horuwa". "Withd* other curries, green leaves, lotus containing carbohydrates, to or "maalawa" was used to drink yams (netum ala), lotus stalks (nelum maintain his energy while doing toddy and other liquor. dandu), [deekin), ghee [githeli, hard work, until the mid dav meal treacle and bee honey, and 'popped ("embula") is brought. Usually such Rice preparations: and sweetened rice' ["habalapethf) heavy diet was either "heel batha" were other components of the meal. 1 (rice cooked in the previous night), "Milk Rice" ["Kin bath ) had a special The monks had a separate code for "diya batha" (rice cooked in the place in the day-to-day food and food consumption. previous night mixed with onions consumption as well as in all According to the Thonigala" stone and water), "rotti" or thick porridge festive occasions. The milk used in scripture, curd [deekiri/dhee), {"thalapa') from corn or "kurakkan". this cooking was either cow's mjJk honey (miyawata), treacle (peni), or . "Milk rice" was gingery (thila), ghee (bujnathela), salt In the past, the five types of food also known as "ksheera bhaktha", {lona) and green leaves (palahawata) ("pancha prakaara bhojaruf) were have been named as suitable food recommended for the consumption. "ksheera payaasa", "madhura for the monks. These included; rice, komupidu, payaasa'oT Vanpindu''. —— Economic Review: April/ May 2010 59 "Pesi batha" was considered as a prescribed even today to diabetic tree" in the pastr, due to the connoisseurs' special in the past patients. The rice prepared with the immense food value of and the* food and was in the menu for the royals broken parts of the corn grain was security that was provided by the and chieftains. To make "pesi batha", a very popular food in the past, and jak fruit. As much as 23 food rice was cooked and then tempered even today it is known and preparations and 6 sweetmeats together with vegetables. "Pesi consumed as "iringu rice" in certain were prepared using the jak fruit. batha" was also known as "rasa parts of the country. The rice bafha", or "mansoudhana*. The "embul preparations served at wedding Gruel Preparations batha" prepared with the sediment ceremonies were commonly known residue of spiced ("kaadi") was as "mogul batha", but included four Another item that had a special also similar to the "pesi batha". distinctive preparations identified place in the traditional meals was There are reports to indicate that as "kedara bathd*, "aadara batha", "kendo* (gruel). It had been called sometimes, ghee and meat of "laadara batha", and "yodara batha". as "amu" or "hambu" and sometimes peacocks were also added to the The first meal prepared at a house "kaadf in the past. Rice was the "pesi batha". "Pesi batha'' could be after a funeral was known as "mala main component in gruel consumed without any other bathd*. Rice offered to the demons preparations. With the addition of curries. The "kaadi batha" was and various evil spirits was known other items different nutritional cooked with "kaadi" and tempered as "pideni batha" or "pulutu batha", and medicinal values were obtained with ghee. Rice prepared with while what was offered to deities to suit the different requirements. broken rice grains and milk was was known as "muruthen batha". The They were used not only for their known as "hendi batha", "sunsaal rice preparation for the officials of nutritional value but also for batha" or "kadasaai bathd'. The rice chieftains was called " adukkuwa*, prevention and cure of various prepared in the previous night was Among all types of grains, ailments. Among these different consumed in the following morning "kurakkan" held a special place all gruel preparations, what was known either as "heel batha" or as "diya the time. Kurakkan flour had a very as "diya kenda", "lunu kendo" or batha" with water, onions and salt high demand and various food "hulu kenda"/ 'hulu ken" was the added. The belief was that the preparations from such flour viz. most widely used. It is mentioned nutritional value as well as the "thalapa" (thick porridge), rotd, gruel, in the literature that Arhath medicinal value was at its highest "ginipoo"and "helapa" were very Maliyadeva Thera was offered a in this "heel batha", compared to all popular. medicinal gruel ("beheth hulu other rice preparations. The kendo") prepared with the addition of 11 medicinal herbs, as a cure for medicinal value could be enhanced Tubers and Yams: by the addition of cows' milk, curd a stomach ache. When sweeteners such as ghee, honey or orange juice or buffalo milk, and due to this Various tubers, roots and yams were added, such gruel was called reason this rice preparation was were supplementary food that "rasa ulu ken". There are records to also known as "beheth batha" provided useful carbohydrates at indicate that sometimes even (medicinal rice). Curd and treacle that time. They were common in the maldive fish or meat was added to were added to the parched rice at villager's menu. During the further enhance the taste. When the bottom of the pot ("dankuda") Anuradhapura era, the most widely the juices of various green leaves to make another sweet preparation used tuber was "kidaran* were added such gruel was called called "paawaru bathd* {Amorphophallus campanulatus). In "kola kenda". They were regarded as the literary works, it has been higher in nutritional and medicinal identified as "soorana". Among the value and even today it is popular Reports indicate that the villagers traditional tubers and yams, there as a breakfast item. In literary used not only paddy grain but other were many other edible varieties works, they have been identified as dry land ("katusara") grains also in that contributed immensely to the "embul (sour) kenda" or "embul the preparation of cooked rice. They food security of the villagers. When hambu". It is mentioned that, gruel added to the diversity of food and these yams were consumed, that had sometimes been tempered with helped in the preservation of was considered as a whole meal butter or ghee to enhance the physical health of the consumers most of the time. Most widely taste. Such tempered gruel had too. Katusara rice was named after consumed yams were; been known as "smoked diya the respective grains that were "kukulala"(diospyres sativa), "kondol"( kenda". used in their preparation. Thus, dioscorea alata), "kahata ala", "vel they were known as "amu rice", ala", "kandala", "udala"'(dioscorea "undu rice", "thana rice", "iringu bulbifera), "katuala", Sometimes, grains other than rice (corn) rice", "thala (gingili) rice" etc. "gonala"(dioscorea intermeda), were also used to prepare gruel. Literary works indicate that seven "hirithala", "engili ala", "panu "undu (phaseolus mungo) kenda" , varieties of rice were consumed at ala"(dioscorea spp.), "nool ala" "kudu (broken rice) hambu" were two that time. The "oolu (water lily / [typhonium trilobatum) etc. such preparations. The occasion of nymphaea lotus) rice" which was in Jackfruit tree (artocarpus feeding the babies with their first the menus in the past, is neterophyllus) was called as "rice rice meal was known as "hambu 60 Economic Review: April/ May 2010 — powana mangatya'. Expecting madakanya, weligowwa, theliya, Vegetables and Curries mothers were given an "undu kenda'' petiya (carp) and aanda (eel) were specially prepared with the addition specially sought after. Fish was an The Sinhalese word "maalu* means of certain medicinal herbs. important component of the fish, but it is also used to describe traditional daily meal. When all forms of curries, be it Meat and fish consumption irrigation tanks get dried up during vegetables, fish or meat. A the dry season, the fish in those vegetable curry was an essential Sri Lankans of the past honored the tanks were caught with the item for the common man, in the Buddhist principle of right of living permission of the "wet vidane"- the consumption of rice. The curries of all living beings, and at the same official in charge of the paddy fields offered to the Buddhist monks were time loved and preserved the fauna and tank. The fishing was done as called "iriyaryana". and flora. But it didn't mean that a common exercise of the entire they were strict vegetarians. village, and the harvest was shared in addition to green leaves, there Literary works of the past indicate among everybody according to the were a number of indigenous the meat and fish were relished by quotas long established by the vegetables consumed. In various the ancient people. Additionally, the traditions. written texts of the past, there are properties of different meats and references about cucumber, the methods of their preparations Among the meat of land animals, pumpkin, snake gourd, ridged gourd, and even the methods of those of buffaloes and cows (beef) brinjal, drumstick, jak fruit, long preservation have been described and goat (mutton) were taboo. Since beans, green gram which were used in in ancient culinary books and they were domesticated animals, as vegetables. Some of those such traditional recipes. Wild boar meat killing them and consumption of as "mulu ala" are extinct today. and "walapothu" fish which had their meat was considered as a very more fat, were preserved by a lowly act by the society. Those who Some of the traditional vegetable unique process called violated these social taboos were preparations such as vegetable "kuTukkulaya". The other common lowered from their social status curry, dry cooked vegetables methods of preservation were and were forced to join a lower caste ["mellumd') or fried vegetables are salting , sun drying, smoking, or in such as "chandala" or "kasala used even today. The other the case of flesh of game; by keeping shodhaka". There were stone methods of cooking such as immersed in bee honey. inscriptions announcing the "aanama", "embula'', 'myambataawa', abolishment of killing these "hath maaluwa", "eta hodda*, "miris This paradox seems to be cleared animals. Some ancient kings totally hodda" were important components by assuming that people of the past prohibited the killing of all kinds of the traditional culinary art, but did not farm animals for the of animals for any purpose. are rarely seen in the contemporary consumption of meat. Therefore, cookery. Seeds of the jak fruit animals raised domestically were The land animals that were hunted preserved in sand ["weli kos eta*) never killed for consumption of for meat included wild boar, elk, were dry cooked to prepare the their meat. Meat for consumption deer, porcupine, giant squirrel and " ruyambalaawa". Green gram, dhal or was entirely procured as flesh of iguana. The game birds included cowpea were boiled, drained and game. The animals that were pigeon, quail, and peacock. Once eaten. 'Kaayan* was a curry generally hunted for this purpose hunted, not only their flesh but preparation used as an appetizer, other internal organs (offal) also and the type of meat used are and as a cure for stomach disorders. were selected to make various mentioned in the traditional It was prescribed for mothers at delicacies. They were known as recipes. In hunting too, certain post-confinement. The "Saraartha "pancha madhura maansa" (the five ethics and traditions were adhered Sangrahaya" describes the "kaayan* to. delicious meat preparations). There were five different methods of curry prepared with meat of the cooking meat; fried, bubbled, tortoise or black fowl as a tested In the traditional recipes, two kinds sweetened and spiced etc. cure for jaundice. of meat have been mentioned; As it is done today, spices were "goda mas" (those of land animals) Additionally, the meat curry, fried and "diya mas" (those of fish). In meat and roasted meat were other widely used to enhance the flavour ancient texts, they have been popular preparations. Sometimes of the curries even at that time. identified as "maansd* (meat) and meat or fish were simply put on live The fact that spices facilitated easy "machcha* (fish) respectively. Both charcoal. Eggs of various birds such digesting is mentioned in the old were delicacies valued by the as fowl, peacock and quail were also culinary texts. Among such spices, connoisseurs and were rich in popular. The meat of peacock, hare, curry leaves, ginger, garlic and proteins. Available evidence deer and wild boar were considered "goraka* (garcinia cambogia) were indicates that fishing was done in as the most delicious. There are widely used. In the traditional inland water bodies, but not so references about fowl but it is not jargon, these spices were commonly widely in sea. Among the fresh very clear whether it was caught known as "thuna paha" (the three water fish; loola, kaavyiya, from wild or domestically raised. and five). The "three" were; chillies,

Economic Review: April/ May 2010 6t salt and cummin seed, or; ginger, types of milk. The five tastes or Conclusion pepper and long pepper. The "five" five preparations ("pasgorasa") of had regional variances. In some cow's milk or buffalo's milk were All these are indicative of the fact areas that was; chillies, ginger, long delicacies and considered as noble that traditional food and beverages pepper, mustard and . In and extraordinary. For the exclusive of the Sri Lankans of the past some other areas, the "five" was; use of the monks, "ashtavidha comprised of diverse, tasty, healthy cummin seed, black cummin seed paana" - a beverage using eight and natural items that were rich in (black or Baraka seeds), coriander, ingredients - were prepared. nutritional values. Those people mustard and dill seeds. In some According to" Sadhdharrruilankarayd', had their inherent culinary art and other areas; "perunkayam" those eight ingredients were the food habits that were helpful in (asafetida), garlic, ginger, mustard juices of mango, rose apple, seedy making generations of strong people and "wadha kaha" (curcuma plantain ("eta kehel"), fleshy that were healthy in both body and domestica), and in other areas; plantain ("mas kehel"), bee honey, mind. That was how they were able cummin seed, black cummin seed grapes, water lily and "boralu to built man made wonders, (black or Baraka seeds), cumin dhamann* fruits. Additionally, these prevent and fight foreign invasions fennel seed, "asamodagam" and ingredients have been used after invasions and even to conquer "sathakuppa" were considered as separately and exclusively to make overseas. As a result of the the 'five'. other beverages. Such drinks were; modernization and globalization, "kasa pen" (young coconut water), the traditional food and food habits In addition to the spices, what was mango juice, rose apple juice, have been abandoned and the essential for a curry was the sugarcane juice, banana juice etc. contemporary generation has sourness/acidity. To get the sour When juices of the sugarcane were become sick, weak and impotent. taste, citrus acida ("dehi"), citrus offered to the monks, bee honey, But we are not yet all too late to auraritium (sour orange), citrus medico, ghee, and have been added come out of this trap and restore f nas narari*), citrus hystrix fkudalu to enhance the taste. our traditional food and food habits, dehi*) and "goraka* (garcinia to give birth to a new generation of cambogia) had been used. Sweetmeats healthy and strong people. Additionally, curry leaves were used to enhance the flavour and There are records about 18 References: facilitate the digestion. But, there traditional sweetmeats. They have been commonly called as 1. Vaidya Sarartha Sangrahaya - are no records to indicate that Aryadasa Kumarasinghe - Department urampe" (pandanus odoratissimus), "poopapupa" or "awulpath". Some of of National Museum, Colombo. those sweetmeats were "laalu", "sera" (lemon grass), or 2. Rajaratxn gilihi yana garnijeevana rata "athirasa", "", "pulusbadana", cloves were used. Instead of red - K B Podiappuhamy - S Godage chillies which are widely used today, "wilandawata", "kolawata", "hendi Brothers, Colombo ", "pena kevum", "ginipoo", pepper had been extensively used 3. Sri Lankawe Sampradayika Ahara "salapoo", "kabalapoo", "esitipoo" in the past. Ratawa saha Soopa Shasthraya- and "golageta". The common Pandula Endagama - Hector Beverages ingredients used in the preparation Kobbekaduwa Agrarian Research & of all these sweetmeats were rice Training Institute, Colombo Various beverages were also flour, green gram, ghee, treacle or 4. Rajagedara Soopa Shasthra Potha - P inevitable in the culinary habits. honey, and gingerly. These B Sannasgala, Colombo The most common and widely used sweetmeats were prepared either by 5. Wawgampaththuwe Parani Kaama beverages were milk and butter frying in deep oil, steaming , or Beema - Piyadasa Udawatta - S. milk. They were made from two roasting in an open pan. Godage Brothers, Colombo.

Typical Village enclosure in Nuwarakalawiya Typical Paddy tract in a Nuwarakalawiya Village, (Kanimaduwa: Gangoda) harvest-time (Kanimaduwa: Gangoda) (FARMER B. H., 1957, PIONEER PEASANT COLONIZATION IN , OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS)

62 Economic Review: April/ May 2010