ASIAN ALPINE E-NEWS Issue No 72. August 2020
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ASIAN ALPINE E-NEWS Issue No 72. August 2020 George Band and Joe Brown at the Kangchenjunga Base Camp 1955 – Photo Royal Geographical Society “The Himalayan News 7” from India Page 2 ~ 18 1 The Himalayan N e w s The Himalayan August 2020 The Himalayan News A Newsletter of The Himalayan AUGUST 2020 NO 7 SHERPAS AND THEIR KANGCHENJUNGA THE GOOD SHEPHERDS BUDDHISM THE LAST GREAT Sankar Sridhar Jim Wilson MOUNTAIN Mick Conefrey 1 The Himalayan N e w s The Himalayan August 2020 Dear Readers, BOOK REVIEW: EDMUND HILLARY A BIOGRAPHY by We welcome you to the seventh issue of The Himalayan News. Michael Gill Sujoy Das The COVID 19 pandemic has been sweeping across the planet for the last six months and causing immense hardship and devastation. The entire spring season in the Himalaya has been washed out and indications are that the peak autumn season will also be in jeopardy. Guides, porters, lodge owners, airlines, mountaineering and trekking companies, hotels have all been badly hit. Many have already been forced to close down their businesses and establishments. We can only hope and pray that this pandemic ends soon and a suitable vaccine enters the market to arrest the spiralling growth of this disease in these unprecedented times. In this our seventh issue, Jim Wilson, who was part of Ed Hillary’s team and worked with him for many years, pens an essay on the Sherpas of the Solukhumbu and their Buddhism with his fascinating personal experiences when he was in the Khumbu in the sixties. Acclaimed author Mick Conefrey, who wrote two books on Everest and K2, now completes the trilogy with Kangchenjunga – The Last Great Mountain. Meticulously researched, Kangchenjunga promises to become a collector’s item for all mountain book lovers. Award winning photographer Sankar Sridhar who has spent many years documenting mountain communities brings us a photo essay on the Bakarwals of Kashmir and the threats to their lifestyle and migratory routes. The Himalayan has also made a humble effort to assist the Sherpa community in Darjeeling , shut in by serial lockdowns that has devasted their lives and livelihood. In an attempt to bring back a semblance of routine to the lives of the children, study material necessary for beginning a new semester in school, were donated to children from Nursery to Class XII. This was done in conjunction with IMF Eastern Zone and the Sherpa Mountaineering and Trekking Welfare Association (Darjeeling). From the desk of Rupamanjari Biswas: I am grateful to our Editor, Sujoy Das, for overcoming his pandemic fatigue and putting this issue together for a timely publication. Sujoy Das Rupamanjari Biswas Editors 2 The Himalayan N e w s The Himalayan August 2020 SHERPAS AND THEIR BUDDHISM Jim Wilson Awaiting the morning prayers at Thyangboche monastery [This is an abbreviated version of a chapter in my book ‘Journey to the Centre of My Being’ Zen Publications, Mumbai, 2019] In March to May 1963 I was part of Ed held, and lamas (monks) came and blessed Hillary’s first school building expedition to the proceedings and houses and people, for every Khumbu region of Nepal. This gave me my important stage in the yearly cycle and every first real encounter with a religion other than important milestone in people’s lives. But, Christianity. Sherpas are Tibetan Buddhists, instead of the fiercely quiet and reverent and, though intensity of belief and practice atmosphere I was used to in Presbyterian varied as widely amongst them then as it did Christian services, Sherpa religious occasions amongst New Zealand Christians, their were laid back noisy affairs. People came and religion infused every aspect of their lives and went at will, and children were allowed to run thoughts in ways strikingly different from the around and talk freely, none of which society I had grown up in. disturbed the lamas or lay people in the slightest. And, because they were not forced In New Zealand, in those days, people were to be quiet and still, children and adults were mostly either religious, and dour and intense far less fidgety and obtrusive than in a solemn about it; or indifferent; or hostile to religion, ceremony in church. Nor did this make the and dour and intense about it. Here in the ceremonies less impressive; on the contrary it Solu Khumbu I was amongst people who were enhanced them. I loved it. serious about their religion but in a wonderfully relaxed way. Ceremonies were 3 The Himalayan N e w s The Himalayan August 2020 One of the many good things about Ed’s aid we prised and dug our way deep into the projects was that he always wanted them to hillside, jousting with huge boulders as we fit into Sherpa or Nepali ways of doing things dislodged them from above. Just before we as much as possible. So he always had lamas, finished for the day I spotted a small toad and on special occasions the Rinpoche trembling at the back of our hole. I pointed it (reincarnate Head Monk) of Thyangboche out to Phu Dorje and Pemba Tarke. “Na ramro Gompa, (Monastery) bless the building or (not good) Jim, that is the god of the spring” bridge or water-supply. In this, as in all things, they said solemnly. Ed was advised by Mingma Tsering, his Sirdar. Mingma was religious in a relaxed Sherpa All Sherpas love teasing, these two most of all, way. I learnt not to talk to him for the first half so at first I was sure they were joking. But hour or so each morning for he was chanting they kept perfectly straight faces as they said mantra. we must take the toad to Khunde Major (the elected head of the village council) and seek his advice on what to do, for if we had indeed disturbed the god of the spring he might stop the flow completely. I began to get alarmed, for what we’d done to the spring might do that anyway. So I picked up the poor wee cowering beastie and we went to Khunde Major’s house, edging cautiously past his particularly ferocious Tibetan mastiff and in his door. Khunde Major heard us out quietly, looked carefully at my friend the toad, and pronounced him indeed the god of Khunde spring. Help!!! - what to do??? I asked aghast. “Ah” said Khunde Major, “You must take the god to your camp tonight, keep him warm, and tomorrow we will perform puja (religious ceremony) and put him back in his spring.” If there was a twinkle in his eye, and/or a wink to him from the terrible two, I didn’t catch it. I was so scared the toad would succumb to the fierce frost that I slept with him inside my sleeping bag. To my intense relief he was The Rinpoche of Thyangboche at the opening of alive next morning, and even seemed quite Thami school happy. Khunde Major and several other dignitaries and lamas, and of course Phu Dorje One incident above all others during this first and Pemba Tarke, accompanied me and toad encounter has always for me typified the back to the spring, which to my relief was still Sherpa attitude to religion. I was with fellow flowing strongly. In a ceremony as punctuated New Zealander Murray Ellis, and two of my by laughter as by mantra we restored the god closest Sherpa friends, Phu Dorje and Pemba to his proper place. Tarke. We were trying to increase the flow of a mountain spring preparatory to piping water Walking back with Phu Dorje and Pemba from it to a holding tank we’d had built in the Tarke curiosity was consuming me. Did they village of Khunde. With crowbars and shovels and/or Khunde Major and the others really 4 The Himalayan N e w s The Himalayan August 2020 believe this was the god of the spring, or was anyway. But they answered, in similar vein to this an elaborate trick on me? What was all their god of the spring approach. “Ah Jim, we the laughter about? To me, their answer yetis believing, very careful not annoying epitomizes the healthiest attitude to religion I them. No yetis being, no harm doing. We yetis have come across. “Ah Jim” they said, grinning not believing then yeti seeing, ekdam na engagingly, “this being god of spring, we not ramro.” puja doing, then spring drying, ekdam na ramro (very bad). This not being god of spring, no harm puja doing, and good time having.” Surely the best of win-win situations. I remember only the gist of their replies, of course, not their exact words. And since I understood little Nepali and no Sherpa they spoke to me in Sherpa English. I became a great fan of Sherpa English and used it not mockingly but admiringly and for practical reasons, as did Ed when conversing with Mingma who I think was creator, and certainly The yeti scalp at Khumjung Gompa was master, of this language. Practical as always, Mingma scorned tenses and I was delighted with both these answers. They irregularities of English English and reduced all helped release me from years of Christian- verbs to present participles. “I yesterday induced worries about what is true belief, and coming” is just as precise in meaning as “I philosophy-induced worries about what exists came yesterday”, and the formula can easily and what doesn’t. As time went on I was to and accurately be used in “I now coming” or “I become more and more immersed in tomorrow coming”.