USA's Best Trips 3

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

USA’S BEST TRIPS AMAZING 51 ROAD TRIPS

Simon Richmond, Kate Armstrong, Carolyn Bain, Amy C Balfour, Ray Bartlett, Loren Bell, Sara Benson, Celeste Brash, Gregor Clark, Michael Grosberg, Ashley Harrell, Mark Johanson, Adam Karlin, Brian Kluepfel, Stephen Lioy, Carolyn McCarthy, Hugh McNaughtan, Becky Ohlsen, Christopher Pitts, Kevin Raub, Brendan Sainsbury, Regis St Louis, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Mara Vorhees, Benedict Walker, Karla Zimmerman SYMBOLS IN THIS BOOK CONTENTS History & Essential Top Tips Culture Photo

Link Family Walking Your Trips Tour Food & Tips from Eating PLAN YOUR TRIP Locals Drink 5

Trip Outdoors 4 Sleeping Detour Welcome to the USA...... 7 USA Highlights...... 8 % Telephone i Internet E English- Number Access Language Menu If You Like … ...... 20 h W c Opening Hours Wi-Fi Access Family- Need to Know...... 22 p Parking v Vegetarian Friendly # n Nonsmoking Selection Pet-Friendly City Guide...... 24 s Swimming a Air- The USA by Region...... 30 Conditioning Pool The USA Classic Trips...... 32 MAP LEGEND

Routes Trips Trip Route Trip Numbers Trip Detour ON THE ROAD Linked Trip Trip Stop Walk Route Tollway Walking tour Freeway Primary Trip Detour Route 66:...... 14 Days 35 Secondary 1 Tertiary Population Lane Capital (National) Four Corners Unsealed Road Capital 2 Plaza/Mall (State/Province) Cruise...... 10 Days 49 Steps City/Large Town Tunnel Town/Village Pedestrian Overpass Areas NEW YORK & Walk Track/Path Beach Cemetery THE MID-ATLANTIC...... 61 Boundaries (Christian) International Cemetery (Other) Finger Lakes State/Province Park 3 Loop...... 3 Days 65 Cliff Forest Reservation Hydrography Urban Area The Jersey River/Creek Sportsground 4 Shore...... 3–7 Days 75 Intermittent River Swamp/Mangrove Transport Pennsylvania Canal Airport 5 Water BART station Dutch Country.... 3–4 Days 87 Dry/Salt/ Boston T station Intermittent Lake Cable Car/ Maryland’s National Glacier Funicular 6 Historic Road...... 2 Days 99 Metro/Muni station Route Markers Parking US National Hwy Subway station The Civil US Interstate Hwy Train/Railway 7 War Tour...... 3 Days 109 State Hwy Tram 2 Underground station Skyline Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book 8 Drive...... 3 Days 121 CONTENTS

NEW ENGLAND...... 139 The Blues i Highway...... 3 Days 235 Coastal 9 New England...... 6–8 Days 143 Natchez Trace j Parkway...... 3 Days 245 Fall Foliage a Tour...... 5–7 Days 153 Blue Ridge k Parkway...... 5 Days 257 Rhode Island: b East Bay ...... 3–4 Days 163 The Great l Smokies...... 4–5 Days 269 c Lake Champlain Byway...... 1–2 Days 171 GREAT LAKES...... 287 Vermont’s Spine: d Route 100...... 3–4 Days 179 Michigan’s m Gold Coast...... 4 Days 291 Ivy League e ...... 189 Along the Great Tour 5 Days n River Road...... 6–7 Days 301 f Acadia Highway Byway...... 3 Days 199 o 61...... 2–3 Days 311

FLORIDA & THE SOUTH.... 211 GREAT PLAINS...... 323 Highway 1...... 6 Days 215 Oklahoma’s g p Tribal Trails...... 4–5 Days 327 Cajun q On the h Country...... 4 Days 227 Pioneer Trails.....5–7 Days 337

Pacific Northwest p569 Rocky New Mountains England Great p371 p139 Lakes New York p287 Great & the Mid- Plains Atlantic California p323 p483 p61 Southwest Florida & p417 the South p211

3 Contents cont.

Black Hills Yosemite, Sequoia r Loop...... 2–3 Days 347 ¥ & Kings Canyon National Parks....5–7 Days 515 The s Mighty Mo...... 7 Days 359 Disneyland & ¦ Orange County ROCKY MOUNTAINS...... 371 Beaches...... 2–4 Days 527 Grand Teton Palm Springs & Joshua t to Yellowstone...... 7 Days 375 § Tree Oases...... 2–3 Days 537

Going-to-the-Sun Eastern Sierra u Road...... 2–3 Days 387 ¨ Scenic Byway.... 3–5 Days 545

Top of Highway 49 v the Rockies...... 4–5 Days 395 © Through Gold Country...... 3–4 Days 555 San Juan Skyway w & Million Dollar Highway...... 6–8 Days 405 PACIFIC NORTHWEST.....569 Cascade THE SOUTHWEST...... 417 ª Drive...... 4–5 Days 573 x Fantastic Canyon Olympic Voyage...... 4–5 Days 421 « Peninsula Loop...... 4 Days 583 Zion & Bryce y National Parks...... 6 Days 433 On the Trail of ¬ Lewis & Clark.... 3–4 Days 591 Monument Valley z & Trail of ® Highway 101 the Ancients...... 5 Days 443 Oregon Coast...... 7 Days 601 High & Low ¯ Oregon Cascades { Roads to Taos.... 1–4 Days 451 Scenic Byways...... 4 Days 615 Big Bend ° Crater Lake | Scenic Loop...... 5–7 Days 461 Circuit...... 2–3 Days 625

Hill } Country...... 2–5 Days 469 ROAD TRIP CALIFORNIA...... 483 ESSENTIALS California’s Greatest Hits ~ & Las Vegas....12–15 Days 487 ...... 637 Pacific Coast USA Driving Guide ¤ Highways...... 7–10 Days 501 USA Travel Guide...... 642 Index...... 654

4 Look out for the Classic Trips stamp

RIRF STOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK © on our favorite routes in this book. DAVIDHOFFMANN PHOTOGRAPHY / SHUTTERSTOCK © THE USA

1 Route 66...... 14 Days 35

Four Corners t What is a Classic Trip? All the trips in this book show you the best of the USA, but we’ve chosen 15 as our all-time favorites. These are our Classic Trips – the ones that lead you to the best of the iconic 2 ...... 49 sights, the top activities and the unique USA experiences. Turn the page to see our cross- Cruise 10 Days regional Classic Trips, and look out for more Classic Trips throughout the book.

Black Hills 347 14 Days 35 r ...... 2–3 Days 1 Route 66 ...... Loop Grand Teton ...... 7 Days 374 Four Corners 10 Days 49 t to Yellowstone 2 Cruise ...... Fantastic Canyon 421 ...... 4–5 Days Finger Lakes 3 Days 65 x Voyage 3 Loop ...... California’s Greatest Hits ...12–15 Days 487 The Civil War 109 ~ & Las Vegas ...... 3 Days Finger Lakes 7 Tour Pacific Coast 7–10 Days 501 Coastal 143 ¤ Highways ...... 9 New England ....6–8 Days

Cascade 4–5 Days 573 Fall Foliage 153 ª Drive...... 3 a ...... 5–7 Days ...... 65 Tour Loop 3 Days 6 Days 215 Highway 101 7 Days 601 Highway 1 ...... ® ...... 3 Oregon Coast Blue Ridge 257 33 ...... 5 Days Above: Oxbow Bend (p378), Grand Teton National Park

k Parkway Left: General Sherman Tree (p493), Sequoia National Park JEFF HUNTER / GETT / HUNTER JEFF ~

The Civil War IM Y # AGES AGES 7 Tour ...... 3 Days 109 © Fall Foliage Tour Touring New England in search of autumn’s 10 changing colors has become so popular that it has sprouted its own subculture of ‘leaf-peepers.’ Coastal Immerse yourself in the fall harvest spirit. 9 New England ...... 6–8 Days 143 TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 5–7 DAYS 424 MILES / 682KM 212 miles ##7 St Johnsbury # # Lake Champlain GREAT FOR… Cruise the lake on a #8 43ft schooner for the best views # JG North Conway mK BEST TIME TO GO 327 miles Mid-September to Fall Foliage Bretton Woods late October for the Zipline 1000ft through harvest and autumn a golden leaf canopy # a Manchester leaves. Tour...... 5–7 Days 153 ESSENTIAL I PHOTO 47 miles Kent Falls set against Berkshires a backdrop of # Pack a picnic in the #4 Berkshires’ gourmet autumnal colors. shops BEST FOR #2 K OUTDOORS Sh # 10 miles erman Ziplining through the lL Kent ...... 215 Autumn foliage tree canopy in Bretton Highway 1 6 Days Woods. framing the Housatonic River g LocationKent Falls Caption State Parkdetails (p156) to go Easy here hiking trails and impressive views 153 launching point – see en route. Nearby Mil- 1 Chicago and browse Edward lennium Park (%312-742- Route 66 kicks off in Hopper’s Nighthawks (a 1168; www.millenniumpark. downtown Chicago on diner scene) and Grant org; 201 E Randolph St; Adams St just west of Wood’s American Gothic h6am-11pm; c; mBrown, Michigan Ave. Before you (a farmer portrait) to set Orange, Green, Purple, Pink snap the obligatory photo the scene for what you’ll Line to Washington/Wabash) with the ‘Route 66 Begin’ sign (on the south side of Route 66 Adams, FYI), spend some LINK Blue Ridge 1 YOUR USA’S BEST TRIPS time exploring the Windy TRIP It’s a lonely road – a ghost road really – that appears for a stretch then City. Wander through the Art Institute (%312-443- disappears, gobbled up by the interstate. You know you’ve found it again 3600; www.artic.edu; 111 S n Along the Great ¤ Pacific Coast k Michigan Ave; adult/child $25/ River Road Highways Parkway...... 5 Days 257 when a 20ft lumberjack holding a hot dog rises up from the roadside, or a free; h10:30am-5pm Fri-Wed, The epic roadway This route along the 1

sign points you to the ‘World’s Largest Covered Wagon,’ driven by a giant Abe to 8pm Thu; c; mBrown, Or- (actually a series of edge of the continent R O u TE 66 Lincoln. And that’s just Illinois – the first of eight states on the nostalgic, ange, Green, Purple, Pink Line roads) traces the cruises along an equally to Adams) – literally steps meanderings of the iconic numbered route: Mississippi River. Pick it Hwy 1. When you finish kitschy,#\ slowpoke drive west. from the Mother Road’s ^# up in St Louis. Route 66, follow Hwy 1 44 north or south. VUÓ84 Boise MONTANA Cheyenne MICHIGAN National River Indian Lake MINNESOTA Forest Oahe SOUTH \# WISCONSIN Yellowstone Reservation ]# Lake ^# Black Hills National ^# DAKOTA Rochester Madison 45 4OREGON ]# Brookings ^# Michigan VUÓ Caldwell ^# IDAHO Park #\ Pierre Boise Lake ]# Medford Rapid Pine Francis lL Sawtooth Wind River City Ridge Case Dubuque ]# ]#Crescent WYOMING Wilderness Area 44Reservation Indian Rosebud Yankton Chicago #]#1 I# City #\ #\ VUÓ25 Reservation Indian Indian IOWA p320 Twin VUÓ15 Des #\ r Casper Reservation Reservation #2 Loop...... 2–3 Days 347 Falls Moines Wilmington ^# ILLINOIS VUÓ55 ]# 44 4444 INDIANA Redding 80 Pyramid Lake Great VUÓ Omaha#\ Elko NEBRASKA Atlanta ^# CALIFORNIA Paiute Indian #\ VUÓ80 Salt Lake 23 #\ Indianapolis Cheyenne ^# ^# ^# VUÓ35 GF Reservation VUÓ80 44 ^# Lincoln #^#3 Springfield Salt Lake City COLORADO MISSOURI H# Hoosier ^# p38 National ^# Carson City Denver Jefferson Forest ^# ^# ^# #\ Ely Topeka #] City #4 St Louis : : Sacramento Humboldt- UTAH White River ^# Toiyabe National ^# Inyo #\ National Kansas ]# Sa:n Forest VUÓ70 #5 National Grand Forest City :Francisco Meramec Forest Junction KANSAS Capitol Reef Lamar Lebanon #\ Caverns KENTUCKY NEVADA VUÓ15 ]# \# Cairo Sierra National r Rio Grande #\ Mark Twain National e Wichita \# Grand Teton Park iv National Kansas National Forest R VUÓ5 Forest VUÓ87 VUÓ87 #6 Springfield Forest Death do Las a Osage Indian Valley VUÓ4#\4 GF40 National Vegas Glen Canyon or Reservation Giant Sequoia National ol Navajo National Park #\ C OKLAHOMA #\ TENNESSEE Monument Recreation Area Indian Santa Reservation H# Shamrock Tulsa ARKANSAS #] Seligman Fe Clinton t Barstow Gallup p42 Adrian \# Memphis Kingman ^# ^# ...... 375 #\ #\ #7 Ouachita ^# to Yellowstone 7 Days Flagstaff Amarillo # Oklahoma #\ Santa El ^# Los #15 #\ #\ #\ #\ VUÓ40 National Little 40 #13 #\ VUÓ40 9 #8 City 15 VUÓ Rosa #10 # Reno Forest Angeles VUÓ #\ #12 #11 #\ #\ # Rock A ]# #14 Oatman Winslow McLean 16#\ #\ Holbrook Petrified Albuquerque Tucumcari L # A Santa Monica # San Amboy MISSISSIPPI Kaibab Forest B e Bernardino 10 National A mK VUÓ d Cibola 55 Forest National Park River #\ VUÓ M n National Red Texarkana Salton San Carlos A ^# a ]# Sea Phoenix Apache Indian Gila r Forest San ]# Reservation Wilderness G Lubbock TEXAS ^# o ]# LOUISIANA Jackson ^# i Dallas Diego R NEW Indian Reservation ARIZONA Mexicali MEXICO 0 500 km 37 Maricopa e# 0 250 miles

ELENA PUEYO / GETTY IMAGES © wildlife-watching hot Fantastic Canyon TUNATURA / SHUTTERSTOCK © ^# spot with a boardwalk nature trail. At Road’s End (husually 7am-3:45pm late May-late Sep), cool off by the sandy Kings River x ...... 421 beach or make an 8-mile Voyage 4–5 Days Mist round-trip hike to Falls , which roars in late

spring and early summer. CALIFORNIA 54p525

The Drive » It’s only a 60-mile

drive from Cedar Grove to the 39 Giant Forest in Sequoia National

Park, but it can take nearly two CaliforNia’ hours, thanks to hairpin turns and gawking drivers. Backtrack California’s Greatest Hits along the Kings Canyon Scenic

Byway (Hwy 180) to Grant Grove, S GreateSt HitS & laS VeGaS then wind south on the Generals Hwy through the sun-dappled forests of the Giant Sequoia ~ & Las Vegas...... 12–15 Days 487 National Monument.

6 Sequoia National Park Big trees, deep caves and high granite domes are all on the agenda for this day-long tour of Sequoia

AE PICTURES INC / GETTY IMAGES © %559-565- National Park ( WHY tHiS iS a 7-day 3341; www.nps.gov/seki; Pacific Coast ClaSSiC triP pc). entry per car $30; SARA BENSON, Arriving in the Giant WRITER Forest, let yourself be dwarfed by the majes - ¤ Highways...... 7–10 Days 501 If you’ve only got one shot at seeing tic General Sherman everything California is famous for – Tree , the world’s largest. wine, beaches, mountains, deserts, Learn more about giant big trees and even bigger cities – sequoias at the Giant %559- take this trip. It even includes a short Forest Museum (

hop across the Nevada state line 565-4480; www.nps.gov/seki; to the casino capital of Las Vegas, cnr Generals Hwy & Crescent

a favorite weekend getaway for Meadow Rd; h9am-4:30pm; Californians year-round. The Sierra pc). Snap a photo of Nevada Mountains are best visited your car driving through in summer; spring brings wildflower the Tunnel Log , or better Cascade blooms to the deserts. yet, leave your car behind and hop on the park Above: Wildflowers, Sierra Nevada shuttle for a wildflower Left: Napa Valley vineyard Right: Tunnel Log, Sequoia National Park (p493) ª Drive...... 4–5 Days 573 493

492 Highway 101 ® Oregon Coast...... 7 Days 601

5 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

INDEX

4th Street Elevator 307 Amish people 94 Asheville 264-5, 266 49 Palms Oasis 541-2 Anadarko 332-3 Ashland 626-7, 631 1719 Hans Herr House 90-1 Ancestral Puebloan Aspen 402, 403 1880 Train 354 people 407 Astoria 598, 599, 602, 612 Ancient Bristlecone Pine Atlanta 46 A Forest 550 ATMs 646-7 Andis Wines 559 Abbe Museum 201 Audrey Headframe Park 425 Angels Camp 558 Acadia National Park 17, 200-7 Aurora 68 Angels Landing 52 accommodations 23, 643-4 Austin 473 Animas River 408 activities 20 Avalanche Creek 390 Antietam 110-11 Adamson House 504 Avenue of Giant Boulders 627 Antietam National Battlefield Avenue of the Arts 136-7 Adrian 46-7 110-11 Azalea Park 610 Aerial Lift Bridge 312 Appalachian Trail 156, 191 air travel 642-3 Appomattox Court House Airport Mesa 427 National Historical Park B Alabama Hills 546 117, 119 B&O Railroad Museum 104 Alamo, the 471 Aquarium of the Pacific 504 Badlands National Park 350 Albuquerque 42-3, 47, 56-7, 59 Arabia Steamboat Bailey Yard 342 Alcatraz 488 Museum 363 Balboa Island 531 Aliso Beach County Park 532 archaeological sites 448 Balcony House 407 Allenholm Orchards 174 Arches Trail 437 Ballroom Marfa 464 Alma 398 area codes 648 Baltimore 100-1, 107 Alpine 464-5, 467 Argia 150 Bandon 609 Alpine Lakes Wilderness 576 Arrow Rock State Historic Bar Harbor 204, 206, 207 Alpine Trail 617 Site 362-3 Baring Bridge 392 Amador County Wine Art Deco Welcome Barker Dam 540 Center 223 Country 559-60, 563 Barnegat Lighthouse 81 Art Institute of Chicago Amarillo 41-2, 46 Barrington Cellars 69 37, 320 Amboy 43-4 Barstow 44, 47 Arthur Bowring Sandhills Amboy Crater 44 Bartlett Falls 182 Ranch State Historical Amelia Island 216, 224 Park 344 Bass Harbor Head American Visionary Art Lighthouse 203-4 Artist Point 383 Museum 104 battlefields, Civil War 116 Asbury Park 76-8, 84

654 Baxter Springs 39 Blue Hole 473, 475 Buchanon 294 BB King’s 236 Blue Mountain Artisans 446 Buck Rock Fire Lookout 521 beaches 15, 21 Blue Ox Millworks & Historic Buffalo Bill Ranch State Beacon Rock State Park Park 510 Historical Park 342 595-6 Blue Ridge Parkway 18, Buffalo Gap National Bear Country USA 349 257-67 Grassland 350 Bear Creek 248-9 Blue Ridge Parkway Visitor Burlington (New England) Bear Creek Falls 409 Center 263-4 159, 173-4, 177 Bear Creek Mound 248 Bluebird Cafe 246 Burlington (Pacific Northwest) 580 INDEX Beartown State Forest 157 Bluff 445, 449 Burton Island State Park 176

Bodie State Historic

Beaver Island 298 B-C Park 552 business hours 23, 647 Beehive Trail 201-2 Boeger Winery 560 Butler Wash Ruins 446-7 Belknap Hot Springs 621, 623 Boiling River 383 Buttermilk Falls State Park 67 Bellagio Conservatory & Bonneville 595, 599 Bynum Mounds 251 Botanical Garden 478 Boone 259, 266 Byrd Visitors Center 128 Bellagio Gallery of Fine Boott Cotton Mills Art 478 Museum 193 C border crossings 639, 643 Bemidji 302-3 Cabrillo National Ben & Jerry’s Factory 185-6 Boston 147, 151, 208-9 Monument 502-3 Bend 618, 620, 623 Boston Harbor Islands 147 Cache River Wetlands Bentonia 242 Boundary Waters Canoe Area Center 308 Berkshires 156-7, 161 Wilderness 317 Cades Cove 275-6, 278 Best Friends Animal Box Canyon Falls 411 Cadillac Mountain 202 Sanctuary 52 Boyer Chute National Wildlife Cairo 308 Refuge 364 Big Bend 390 Cajun Country 18, 228-33 Bradbury Building 565 Big Bend National Park Cajun people 232 Branchport 69 466, 467 Calaveras County Fair & Big Morongo Canyon Breakers 149 Jumping Frog Jubilee 558 Preserve 539-40 Breaux Bridge 228-30, 233 California Academy of Big Sable Point Breckenridge 398-9, 403 Sciences 509 Lighthouse 296 Bretton Woods 160 California Cavern State Big Sur 490, 498 Brewery Vivant 296 Historic Landmark 558 Biltmore Estate 265 Bridalveil Fall 517-18 Calvert Cliffs State Park 106 Bird Woman Falls 390 Bright Angel Trail 57, 430 Cambridge 194-5, 197 Bird-in-Hand 93 Bristol 168, 169 Camp Hale 400, 403 Biscayne National Park 223 Broad Museum 494, 565 campervan rental 639 Bishop 549, 553 Brookings 610, 613 Canal Street 133 Bismarck 365-6 Brown University 168, 195-6 Canaveral National Seashore Black Chasm Cavern 558-9 Bryce Canyon National Park 219, 221 Black Hills 347-57 437, 440, 441 Cannery Row 508 Blanding 446, 449 Bryson City 271, 278 Cannon Beach 598, 599, Blithewold Mansion 168 Bubba’s Blues Corner 238 604, 612 Blowing Rock 260, 266 budgeting 23, 644, 645, 647 Cape Arago State Park 609 Cape Disappointment 597-8

655 Cape May 82-3, 85 Choctaw people 333 Cornell Botanical Gardens 67 Cape Perpetua 605, 607 Cholla Cactus Garden 542 Cornell University 67 Capitol Visitor Center 134 Church of San José de Corning 71, 73 cars, see driving Gracia 455 Cornwall Bridge 156 Carolyn’s Sakonnet City Lights Bookstore 567 Corona del Mar 532 Vineyard 165 Civic Center Park 415 Coronado 502 carriage roads 203 Civil War sites 109-19 Cosmopolitan 51-2 Carson Mansion 510 Clarksdale 238-9, 243 costs 23, 644, 645, 647 Cascade Lakes 618, 623 Cleetwood Cove Trail 628

INDEX Cottonwood 425 Cascadian Home Farm 580 climate 22 Cottonwood Spring 542

C-D Cassidy, Butch 437 Clingmans Dome 272-3 Country Music Hall of Castro Theatre 489-90 Clinton 39 Fame 246 Cayuga Lake 68, 72 Coachella Valley 542 covered bridges 186 Cedar Grove 520-1 Coit Tower 567 Crane’s Pie Pantry 294 Celilo Falls 593-4 Cold Harbor Battlefield Crater Lake 627-8, 631 cell phones 648 115-16 Crazy Horse 343-4, 354 Centinela Traditional Coloma 561-2 Crazy Horse Memorial 354 Arts 454 Colonial Michilimackinac 298 credit cards 646 Chadron 344 Colony House 166 Creole people 232 Channel Islands National Colt State Park 168 Crescent City 511 Park 505 Columbia Gorge Discovery Crystal Cave 494, 522 Chapel of the Holy Cross 427 Center 594 Crystal Cove State Park Chapin Mesa Museum 407 Columbia Hills Historical 532, 534 Chateau Chantal 297 State Park 594 Custer State Park 351, 353 Chateau Grand Traverse 297 Columbia River Maritime Cypress Creek National Chelan 576-7 Museum 602 Wildlife Refuge 308 Cherokee 271-2 Columbia State Historic Park 557-8 Cherokee Heritage D Center 329 Columbus Park 132 Dalles, the 594-5, 599 Cherry Republic 297 Comcast Center 137 Dana Point 533 Chetco Community Public Comfort 471, 477 dangers, see safety Library 610 Commons Park 414 Dartmouth College 190 Chicago 26, 37-8, 46, 320-1 Concord (Massachusetts) Davenport 307 Chicasaw Village 251 193-4 Davis Mountains State Park Chicot State Park 230 Concord (New Hampshire) 192, 197 463-4 children, travel with 20 Confederate gravesites 249 Daytona Beach 219, 224 Chimayó 453-4, 459 Constitution Gardens 105 Daytona International Chimney Rock National Speedway 219 Historic Site 342-3 Continental Divide 398 de Young Museum 509 Chimney Rock Park 265 Conway Scenic Railroad 160 Deadwood 354-5, 357 China Beach 610 Coos Bay 608-9 Dee Wright Observatory 620 Chinati Foundation 464 Copley Square 208-9 Delta Blues Museum 239 Chinese Historical Society of Córdova 454 Delta Cultural Center 238 America Museum 566 Corn Palace 365 Denver 396, 414-15

656 Depoe Bay 605 Durango 407-8, 413 Desert Caballeros Western Durango & Silverton Narrow F Museum 423 Gauge Railroad 408 Face Rock 609 Desert Hot Springs 539, 543 Durham Museum 338-9 Fairplay 398 Desert View Drive 430 Dutchman Flat Falls Village 161 Desert View Sno-Park 618 family travel 20 Watchtower 430 DVDs 642 Ferry Building 488-9, 567 Desolation Peak 576 Dylan, Bob 313 Festival International de Devil’s Churn 607 Louisiane 232 INDEX Devil’s Kettle 317 E Figge Art Museum 307

Devils Postpile National Eagle Lake 203 Finger Lakes Loop 65-72 D-F Monument 550-1 Eastern California Firehole Falls 379 Devil’s Punchbowl 605 Museum 548 First State Capitol 361-2 Devil’s Rope Museum 39, 41 Eastern Sierra hot Fishers Gap Overlook 128 Diablo Lake 580, 581 springs 551 Fisk Quarry Preserve 176 Dickey Ridge Visitors Eastern Sierra Scenic Byway Five Civilized Tribes 330, 334 Center 124 545-53 Flagler Museum 222 Dinosaur Land 123 Easy Pass 579 Flagstaff 428, 431 disabilities, travelers Echo Leahy Center for Lake Florence 607-8, 613 with 649 Champlain 160 Florida’s beaches 15 Dismal Nitch 596-7 Ecola State Park 598, 604 Folk Art Center 263 Disneyland 495, 528-9, 534 Edge of the Cedars State food 21, 23, 645 Dixon 458, 459 Park Museum 446 Forest Park 368 Doheny State Beach 533 Eiffel Tower Experience 479 Fort Abraham Lincoln State Dollywood 277 El Paso 462 Park 366 Douglas County El Pueblo 494, 564 Fort Adams 149 Museum 629 El Reno 46 Fort Atkinson State driving 13, 637-41, 643 El Santuario Historical Park 364 border crossings 639, 643 de Chimayó 453 Fort Bragg 510 driver’s license 637 Eldridge Street Fort Calhoun 364 fuel 22, 641 Synagogue 133 Fort Clatsop 598 insurance 637 electricity 645 Fort Davis 462-4, 467 legal matters 641 Elk Run Vineyards 104 Fort George Island 216-17 maps 640 Elkwallow 124 Fort Gibson 330 parking 641 Elsah 307, 309 Fort Kaskaskia 307-8 rental 637-8 Emerald Mound 253 Fort Lauderdale 222-3, 225 road distances 639 emergencies 22, 648 Fort Mandan 366 road rules 640-1 Empire Mine State Historic Fort Matanzas National Park 562 safety 508, 640, 641 Monument 218-19 Enfield Shaker Museum 192 vehicle rental 637-9 Fort McHenry 101 Ephrata 94-5 websites 638 Fort Niobrara National Eunice 231-2 Drytown Cellars 559 Wildlife Refuge 344 Eureka 510, 513 Dubuque 306-7, 309 Fort Robinson State Park Duluth 312-13, 319 Everett 575 343-4

657 Fort Sill 333 Georgia O’Keeffe Grand Canyon Village Fort Union Trading Post 366 Museum 56 430, 431 Fossil Discovery Exhibit 466 Getty Villa 504 Grand Canyon Visitor Center Founders Brewing Co 296 Gettysburg 90, 113 429-30 Fountain Paint Pot 379 Gettysburg National Military Grand Island 340-1 Four Corners Monument 55 Park, Museum & Visitor Grand Isle 174-5, 177 Center 90, 113 Framboise Island 365 Grand Marais 316-17, 319 Giant Forest 493, 521 Franconia Notch State Grand Portage National Park 160 Giant Forest Museum 493 Monument 317-18 INDEX Franklin 246-7 Giant Spruce Trail 607 Grand Prismatic Spring 379, 381 Gilcrease Museum 331

F-H Frazer Point 206 Frederick 105, 107 Gillian’s Wonderland 82 Grand Rapids 296 Fredericksburg (Texas) Glacier Point 518-19 Grand Teton National 471-2, 477 Glore Psychiatric Park 378 Fredericksburg (Virginia) Museum 364 Grandfather Mountain 261 113, 118 Gloucester 144-5, 151 Grant Grove 520 Fredericksburg & Going-to-the-Sun Road Great Auditorium 78 Spotsylvania National 387-93 Great Barrington 156-7, 161 Military Park 113 Gold Beach 609-10, 613 Great Lakes 17, 287-321 Freer-Sackler Museums of Gold Coast (Michigan) 291-9 Great Platte River Road Asian Art 105 Gold Discovery Museum and Archway Monument 341 Fremont Street Visitor Center 561 Great River Road 301-9 Experience 497 Gold Hill 630 Great Smoky Mountains 13, French Camp 252, 255 gold rush 560 269-79 Frisco 399-400 Golden Gate Bridge 509 Great Smoky Mountains Front Royal 123, 130 Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Railroad 271 fuel 22, 641 Factory 566 Greenville 242 Golden Gate Park 488 Greenwood 239, 241, 243 G Golden Spike Tower 342 Groton 150 Galena 39 Golden State Heritage Gruene 476, 477 Site 629-30 Garden Maze 125 Gunflint Trail 317 Gooseberry Falls State Garden Wall 390 Guthrie Theater 304 Park 314 gas 22, 641 Goosenecks State Park Gateway Arch 38-9, 360 Overlook 448 H Gathland State Park 106 Goosewing Beach 164 Half Dome 491, 518 Gatlinburg 276, 278-9 Goshen Fair 156 Hall of Moss Trail 586-7 gay travelers 645-6 Gothenburg 341-2 Hamilton Falls 180 Gearhart 602 Grammy Museum 494 Hammondsport 73 Gemini Giant 38 Grandad Bluff 306 Hangtown’s Gold Bug Park & Mine 560 General Grant Grove 520 Grand Canyon National Park General Sherman Tree 12, 53, 57-8, 421-31 Hannibal 362 493, 521 Grand Canyon of the Hanover 190-2, 197 Geneva 69, 73 Yellowstone 382-3 Harry F Byrd Visitors George M Murrell House 330 Grand Canyon Railway 57 Center 128

658 Harvard University 194-5 Homestake Gold Mine 355 Itasca State Park 302, 309 Hawksbill 127-8 Homestead National Ithaca 67, 72 Hayden Valley 382 Monument of America 340 Ivy League 189-97 Haystack Rock 598, 604 Hood Museum of Art 191 health 646 Hoover Dam 58 J Hopi House 57-8 Healy House Museum 401 Jackson (Mississippi) Hearst Castle 507-8, 512 Horse County 103-4 252, 255 Heceta Head Horsehoe Bend 53 Jackson (Wyoming) 376, 384

Lighthouse 605 Horton Bay General Store Jackson Glacier 391 INDEX 297-8 Helena 238 Jacksonville 217-18, 224

Housatonic Meadows State H-J Herbert F Johnson Museum Jamaica 180 of Art 67 Park 156 James, Jesse 364 Herreshoff Marine Hovenweep National James Marshall Museum 168 Monument 445-6 Monument 562 Hershey 95 Hudson House 81-2 Jamestown 556 Hidden Lake Overlook 391 Humboldt Bay National Wildlife Refuge 510 Japanese American National Hidden Valley 540-1 Museum 565 Humbug Mountain 609 High Desert Museum 620 Jeff Busby Park 252 Hunt Country Vineyards 69 highlights 10-19, 33 Jefferson National Expansion Huntington Beach 530 Highline Trail 391 Memorial 360 Huntly 123 Highway 1 215-25 Jenkinson’s 79 Hurricane Hill Trail 588 Highway 49 555-63 Jerome 424-5, 431 Hurricane Ridge 588 Highway 61 311-19 Jerome State Historic Hyde Log Cabin 174-5 Highway 101 601-13 Park 425 Hildene 157, 159 Jersey Jim Lookout Hill City 354, 356-7 I Tower 407 Hill County 103-4 Independence (California) Jersey Shore 75-85 Hirshhorn Museum & 548-9 Jesse James Home Sculpture Garden 135 Independence (Colorado) 402 Museum 364 Historic Clatsop County Independence (Missouri) 340 Jewel Cave National Jail 602 Indian Grinding Rock State Monument 354 Historic Firehouse No 1 Historic Park 559 John Brown House 168 Museum 562 Indianola 241-2 John Dellenbeck Trail 608 Historic New Orleans Inns of Aurora 68 John Harvard statue 194 Collection 284 insurance 637, 646 Johnson City 473 Historic Ship Nautilus Intercourse 94 Johnson, Lyndon B 473 & Submarine Force International Peace Jordan Pond House 202 Museum 150 Park 392 Joshua Tree National Park Historic Village at Allaire 78 internet access 22, 646 496, 499, 540, 543 history 20 Iron Mountain Rd 351 Judge CR Magney State Park Hoh Rainforest 586-7 Island Beach State Park 79 317, 319 holidays 647 Isle La Motte 175-6 Jug Handle State Natural Reserve 510 Holland 295 Isle Royale National Hollywood 494 Park 318 June Lake Loop 551

659 Lafayette 232, 233 LGBTIQ travelers 645-6 K Laguna Beach 532-3, 535 Library of Congress 134 K1-Express Gondola 183 Lake Candlewood 154-5, 161 Lincoln 339, 345 Kanab 52, 59 Lake Champlain 159-60, 161, Lincoln, Abraham 38, 90 Kancamagus Scenic 171-7 Lincoln City 604-5 Byway 160 Lake Chelan State Park 577 Lincoln Gap 182 Kansas 39 Lake Crescent 587, 589 Lincoln Home 38 Kansas City 363, 367 Lake Cushman 588 Lincoln Memorial 105 Katz’s Delicatessen 133 Lake Marie 608

INDEX Lincoln Presidential Library Kearney 341, 345 Lake Martin 230 & Museum 38

K-L Kennedy Space Center 221 Lake McDonald 389, 393 Lincoln’s Tomb 38 Kenosha Pass 397-8 Lake Peak 455 Linden Place 168 Kent 155-6 Lake Quinault 584-6, 589 Linville Falls 261 Kent Falls State Park 156 Lamar Valley 382, 383 Lithia Park 627 Kerouac, Jack 576 Lan Su Chinese Garden 632 Lititz 95, 97 Kerrville 471, 477 Lancaster 88-9, 96 Little Compton 164-5, 169 Keuka Lake 69 Landis Valley Museum 88 Little Havana 223 Keuka Spring Vineyards 69 Larison Creek Trail 617 Little Mountain Trail 252 Keys Ranch 496 Las Trampas 455 Little Traverse History Keys View 496, 541 Las Vegas 51-2, 59, 478-9, Museum 298 Keystone 349-50, 356 496-7, 499 Lockhart 476 Killington 182-3 Laura Ingalls Wilder Logan Pass 390-1 Kimmel Center for the Museum 305 Lone Pine 546-7, 553 Performing Arts 136 Laurance S Rockefeller Long Beach 504 KiMo Theatre 42 Preserve 376-8 Long Beach Discovery King, BB 236, 238, 241-2 Laurel Falls 277 Trail 596 Kings Canyon National Park Lava Cap Winery 560 Long Beach Island 81-2 491, 493, 520, 525 Laws Railroad Museum & Lookout Point 383 Knife River 313 Historic Site 549 Loop, the 390 Knife River Indian Villages Lead 355, 357 Loretto Chapel 481 National Historical Site 366 Leadville 401, 403 Los Angeles 27, 494-5, Knott’s Berry Farm 530 Leavenworth 575-6, 581 498, 564-5 Knott’s Soak City 530 Lebanon 46 Lost Palms Oasis 542 Kodachrome Basin State legal matters 641 Lowell 192-3 Park 440 Leigh Lake 378, 384-5 Lowell Observatory 428 Kolb Studio 57 Leiper’s Fork 246-7 Lucas Vineyards 68 Kolob Canyons 435 Leland (Michigan) 296-7, 299 Luckenbach 472 Leland (Mississippi) 242 Ludington State Park 296 L lesbian travelers 645-6 Luray 124-5, 131 Lewis & Clark 364, 365, 366, La Crescent 306 Luray Caverns 124-5 591-9 La Crosse 306 Lutsen Mountains 316 Lewis & Clark Boathouse & La Jolla 503 Lyndon B Johnson Ranch Nature Center 362 472-3 La Plaza de Cultura y Lewis Mountain 128 Artes 564

660 Mathews Arm 124 Mississippi River 301-9 M Maynard Dixon Living Missouri History Macedonia Brook State Park History Museum 437 Museum 368 155-6 Mazama 577 Missouri River 359-67 Mackinac Island 298, 299 McAuliffe-Shepard Discovery Missouri-Yellowstone Mackinaw City 298 Center 192 Confluence Interpretive Mad River Glen 184 McCredie Hot Springs 617 Center 366 Mad River Valley 184-5, 187 McDonald Falls 389-90 Mitchell 365 Madaket 510 McDonald Observatory 462-3 Mob Museum 51, 497 INDEX Magic Hat Brewery 172 McKenzie Bridge 622, 623 mobile phones 648

McWay Falls 490 MOCA Geffen 565 Malibu 504, 512 M-M Mammoth Hot Springs Meadow Loop Trails 588 Moki Dugway 448 383, 385 measures 642 money 23, 646-7 Mammoth Lakes Medford 627, 631 Mono Lake 551, 553 549-50, 553 medical services 646 Monterey 508, 513 Mamou 230-1 Memphis 236, 243 Montgomery 186 Manassas 112, 118 Mendocino 510 Montgomery Center 186 Manassas National Meramec Caverns 39 Monument Valley 53, 55, 59, Battlefield Park 112 Meriwether Lewis Site 248 444-5, 449 Manchester 157, 159, 161 Merritt Island National Wild- Monument Valley Navajo Mancos 407 life Refuge 219, 221 Tribal Park 444-5 Manzanar National Historic Mesa Verde National Park Moose 378 Site 548 56, 407 Morning Star Gallery 481 Manzanita 604 Mesalands Dinosaur Moro Rock 521 Maple Pass Loop Trail 579 Museum 42 Moses H Cone Memorial maps 640 Methow Valley 577 Park 260-1 Marathon 465-6 Mexican Hat 449 motorcycles, see driving Marblehead 146-7 Miami 223, 225, 280-1 Mount Washington Cog Marblemount 580, 581 Miami Beach 223, 225, 280-1 Railway 160 Marfa 464, 467 Middlebury Gap 182 Mountain Light Gallery 549 Mariposa Grove 520 Middletown 167 Mt Abraham 182 Maritime Visitor Center Midway Geyser Basin 379 Mt Airy 103 312-13 Mike O’Callaghan- Mt Bachelor 618 Mark Twain Boyhood Home Pat Tillman Memorial Mt Carmel 437 & Museum 362 Bridge 58 Mt Desert Island 204 Marshall Gold Discovery Millennium Park 37-8, 320 Mt Equinox Skyline Drive 157 State Historic Park 561 Millicent Rogers Mt Greylock State Maryhill 593 Museum 458 Reservation 157, 161 Maryland Science Million Dollar Highway 409 Mt LeConte 274, 278 Center 104 Mineral King Valley 521-2 Mt Mansfield 186 Marymere Falls Trail 587 Mingo Falls 277 Mt Mitchell State Park Massachusetts State Mingus Mill 272 261, 263 House 208 Minneapolis 304, 309 Mt Pisgah Trailhead 265 Matchless Mine 401 Mississippi Blues Trail 237 Mt Rushmore National Mather Point 429 Memorial 350-1

661 Mt Whitney 547 National Elk Refuge 376 New England Aquarium 147 Mud Volcano 382 National Frontier Trails New Haven 150, 151, 196, 197 Muir Rock 521 Museum 340 New Holland Brewing Mulberry Street 132 National Geographic Company Pub 295 Mule Canyon Ruins 447 Visitor Center & IMAX New London 150, 151 Theater 428 Museum of Geology 349 New Market 104-5 National Hall of Fame for Museum of Indian Arts & New Mexico History Famous American Indians Culture 453 Museum 480 332-3 Museum of International Folk New Mexico Museum of INDEX National Historic Road Art 453 Art 480 99-107

Museum of Latin American New Museum of M-O National Mall 12, 105 Art 504 Contemporary Art 132 National Marine Museum of Nebraska New Orleans 284-5 Sanctuary 144 History 339 New York City 24-5, 132-3 National Mining Hall of Museum of Pop Culture 635 Newberry National Volcanic Fame 401 Museum of the Big Bend 465 Monument 622 National Mississippi River Museum of the Cherokee Newfound Gap Overlook 273 Museum & Aquarium 307 Indian 271-2 Newport (Oregon) 605, 612-13 National Museum of Museum of the Newport (Rhode Island) 147, American History 112 Confederacy 117 149, 151, 166-7, 169 National Museum of the Museum of the Fur Newport Beach 531, 534 American Indian 135 Trade 344 Niobrara National Scenic National Museum of the Museum of the Shenandoah River 344 Pacific War 472 Valley 124 Norman Bird Sanctuary 167 National Museum of Wildlife Museum of Western Film Art 376 North Beach 488 History 546 National Toy Train North Conway 160, 161 music 235-43, 264, 640 Museum 91 North Dakota Heritage Muskogee 330 National Women’s Hall of Center 365-6 Mystic 150, 151 Fame 68 North Head Lighthouse 597 Native American history 19, North Hero Island 175, 177 N ­271-2, 327-35, 354 North House Folk School Naniboujou Lodge 317 Natural Bridge Viewpoint 316-17 609-10 Nantahala Outdoor North Platte 342 Center 271 Natural Bridges National North Shore Commercial Monument 447-8 Napa Valley 490 Fishing Museum 316 Nauvoo 307 Narrows, the 437 Northern Berkshire Fall Neahkahnie Mountain 604 Foliage Parade 157 Nashville 246, 254 Needles Hwy 351 Norton Museum of Art 222 Nashville 246 Nelson 305-6, 309 Natchez 253, 255 Neon Museum 51 Natchez Trace Parkway O 245-55 Nevada City 562, 563 Oakridge 617 National Archives 135 Nevada Fall 518 Oasis of Mara 541-2 National Cowboy & Western New Bedford 147 Oatman 43 Heritage Museum 332 New Braunfels 476, 477 Oberlin Bend 390 National Eagle Center 306 New Buffalo 292, 299 Ocean City 82, 85

662 Ocean Drive 280 Pier 39 488 Ocean Grove 78, 84 P Pierce Stocking Scenic Ocean Institute 533 Pacific Coast highways 12, Drive 296 Oconaluftee Visitor 501-13 Pierre 365 Center 272 Pacific Crest Trail 575, 579 Pigeon Forge 276-7 October Mountain State Pacific Marine Mammal Pike Place Market 635 Forest 157 Center 533 Pillar Rock 596 Office Bridge 616 Pacific Park 45 Pinnacle Overlook 91 Ogalalla 342 Palace of the Governors 480 Pioneer Museum 604 INDEX O’Keeffe, Georgia 56 Palisade 309 Pismo Beach 505, 512

Oklahoma City 331-2, 335 Palisade Head 315 Placerville 560 O-P Oklahoma History Palisades Park 45 Plymouth 181-2 Center 331-2 Palm Beach 221-2 Point Arena 509, 513 Oklahoma Route 66 Palm Springs 495-6, 498-9, Point Pleasant 78-9 Museum 39 538-9, 543 Point Reyes National Old Chain of Rocks Paramount Theatre 76 Seashore 509 Bridge 38 parking 641 polo 166 Old Faithful 379, 385 Parton, Dolly 276, 277 Ponce de Leon Inlet Old Mission Peninsula Pasadena 47 Lighthouse & 297, 299 Patapsco Valley State Park Museum 219 Old Trace 248 101-2 Ponce Inlet 219 Olmsted Point 517 Paul Bunyan statue 302-3 Pony Express 341-2, 363-4 Olympia 584, 589 Peabody Essex Museum 146 Pony Express National Olympic National Park 584 Peninsula Cellars 297 Museum 364 Olympic Peninsula 583-9 Pennsylvania Dutch Port Orford 609, 613 Omaha 338-9, 345, 364, 367 Country 87-97 Port Townsend 588, 589 On-a-Slant Indian Village 366 Pepin 305, 309 Portland 632-3 opening hours 23, 647 Peter Norbeck Scenic Portsmouth 166 Orange County Museum of Byway 351 Post-Dispatch Lake 368 Art 531 Petersburg 117 Potosi 306 Oregon Coast Aquarium 605 Petoskey 298 Prada Marfa 466 Oregon Dunes National Petrified Forest National Prairie Creek Redwoods Recreation Area 608 Park 43 State Park 511 Oregon Shakespeare Petroglyph National Precipice Trail 201 Festival 626 Monument 43 Prehistoric Gardens 609 Oregon Vortex 630 petrol 22, 641 Prescott 423-4, 431 Orvis Hot Springs 412 Pharr Mounds 249 President Calvin Coolidge Ouray 409, 411, 413 Phelps Lake 377 State Historic Site 181-2 outdoor activities 20 Philadelphia 136-7 Presley, Elvis 249 Oval Beach 295 Philbrook Museum of Art 331 Prospect 627 Overall Run Falls 124 Phippen Museum 424 Providence 168, 169, Owachomo Bridge 448 phonecards 648 195-6, 197 Oxbow Bend 378-9 Picasso, Pablo 321 Proxy Falls 620-1 Oxbow Public Market 490 Piedras Blancas Light Prudence Island 168 Oxford 249 Station 507 public holidays 647

663 Robert Frost Interpretive Salem 145-6, 151 Q Trail 182 Salida 401 Quandary Peak 399 Robert H Treman State Salt Creek Falls 617-18 Queen Mary 504 Park 67 Salton Sea 542 Quinault 584-5 Robert Mondavi winery 490 Salvation Mountain 542 Robert Sinskey Samuel Boardman State R Vineyards 490 Scenic Corridor 609 Rochester 183-4, 187 San Antonio 471 Railroad Museum of Rockefeller, John D 203, 377 San Bernardino 47 INDEX Pennsylvania 91 Rockefeller Monument 273 San Clemente 503-4 Railtown 1897 State Historic

Rockport 580 Q-S Park 556 San Diego 502-3, 512 Rockwell Museum of Rainbow Falls 551 San Francisco 488-90, 498, Western Art 71 508-9, 513, 566-7 Rainy Pass 579 Rocky Mountains 19, 371-415 San Juan Hut System 409 Ralph Waldo Emerson Rogue River 609 Memorial House 194 San Juan Skyway 405-13 Ronks 97 Rapid City 349, 356 San Marcos 475 Rookery 320-1 Rappahannock Cellars 123 Sand Beach 201-2 Roosevelt Memorial 105 Reading Terminal Market 137 Santa Barbara 505, 512 Rooster Hill Vineyards 69 Red Canyon 437 Santa Barbara Trail 455 Rose Kennedy Greenway 147 Red Mountain Pass 409 Santa Cruz 508, 513 Rose River Loop 128 Red Rock Canyon National Santa Fe 42, 56, 59, 453, Roseburg 628-9, 631 Conservation Area 58 459, 480-1 Rosecliff 149 Red Rock Country Visitor Santa Monica 44-5, 47, 494 Center 428 Rosenbach Museum & Saugatuck 294-5, 299 Library 136 Reds Meadow 550-1 Savannah 282-3 Ross Lake 580, 581 Redwood National Park 511 Schneider Museum Round Barn Winery 294 Reedsport 608 of Art 627 Route 66 10, 35-47 Reno 552, 553 Schoodic Peninsula 206 Route 66 ‘Mother Road’ Renwood Winery 559 Schulman Grove 550 Museum 44 Reptile Gardens 349 Scotts Bluff National Route 100 179-87 Monument 343 Revere Beach 146 Roy’s Motel & Cafe 43-4 Scottsbluff 345 Rhode Island State Ruby Beach 586, 589 House 168 Sea Lion Caves 608 Russ Kendall’s Smoke Richmond 116-17, 118-19 Sea Ranch 509 House 313 Ridgway 411-12 Seal Beach 529 RV rental 639 Rim Road Scenic Drive 437 Seaside 602-3, 612 Rim Trail 430 Seaside Heights 79, 84-5 Rising Sun 392 S Seattle 634-5 Rittenhouse Square 136 Sacajawea Interpretive Sedona 427 Riverton 39 Center 592-3 Seligman 47 road distances 639 Sachuest Beach 167 Seneca Falls 68, 72 road rules 640-1 Saddle Rock Trail 343 Sequoia National Park 493-4, 520, 525 Roaring Fork Motor Nature safety 508, 640, 641, 647 Trail 276 Sailfest 150 Sevierville 277

664 Shafer Museum 577 Southern Plains Indian String Lake 378, 384-5 Sharlot Hall Museum 424 Museum 332 Stuhr Museum of the Prairie Shelburne 172, 177 Space Coast 221, 222, 225 Pioneer 340 Sheldrake Point Winery 68 Sparks Lake 618 Sturgis 355 Shenandoah National Park Spearfish 355, 357 Sturgis Pretzel House 95 130-1 Spearfish Canyon Scenic Sugarbush 184 Ship Harbor Trail 203-4 Byway 355 Sugarlands Visitor Center Shiprock 480 Split Rock Lighthouse 314-15 274-5, 278 Shore Line Trolley 150 Sprague Creek 389 Sun Point 392 INDEX Shovel Point 315-16 Spring Lake 78, 84 Sun Studio 236

Sunnylands 495-6 Sierra Nevada 515-25 Springdale 436, 441 S-T Sieur de Monts Spring 201 Springfield 38, 46 Sunrift Gorge 391-2 Silverton 408-9, 413 Springsteen, Bruce 76 Superior Hiking Trail 313-14 Sioux City 364-5 Squantz Pond State Park 154 Surfing Heritage & Culture Sioux County 343 St Anne’s Shrine 175-6 Center 504 Sitting Bull 366 St Augustine 218, 224 Sutter Creek 559, 563 Skagit River 580 St Charles 361-2 Suttons Bay 297 Skamokawa 596 St Francis Cathedral 480-1 Sykesville 102-3, 107 Ski Santa Fe 454 St George 435, 441 Skyland Stables 125 St Joseph 363-4 T Skyline Drive 121-31 St Joseph’s Miraculous Table Rocks 627 Sleeping Bear Dunes Staircase 481 Tabor Hill Winery 294 National Lakeshore 296 St Louis 38-9, 46, 360-1, 367, Tabor Opera House 401 368-9 Slidewaters Water Park 577 Tahlequah 328-9 St Louis Art Museum 368 Slotzilla 51 Tail of the Dragon 272 St Louis Science Center 369 Smith Opera House 69 Tandem Ciders 297 St Louis Zoo 369 Smith Rock State Park 620 Taos 458, 459 St Mary Lake 392 Smithsonian Institution 105 Taos Pueblo 458 Smoketown 96-7 St Mary Visitor Center Taos Ski Valley 454 392, 393 smoking 642 Taughannock Falls State Smoky Mountains 13, 269-79 St Paul 304-5, 309 Park 68 Snake River 378 Staircase 588 telephone services 647-8 Snow Canyon State Park 435 Stanton 366 Telluride 412, 413 Snow Farm Winery 174 Station Camp 596-7 Temperance River State Sonora 556-7, 563 Stevens Pass 575 Park 316 South Burlington 172-3 Stever Hill Vineyards 69 Tenaya Lake 517 South Dakota Cultural Stone Arch Bridge 304 Terlingua 466, 467 Heritage Center 365 Stonehenge replica 593 Terwilliger Hot Springs 622 South Haven 299 Stonewall Jackson Shrine Tettegouche State Park South Hero Island 174 113, 1115 315-16 South Park City 398 Storm King Mountain Texas Falls 182 South Shore Beach 164 Trail 587 Thibodaux 228, 233 South Yuba River State Stowe 186, 187 Three Capes Loop 604 Park 562 Strasburg 91, 93 Three Oaks 292-4

665 Thumb Butte 424 TV 642 Vitrix Hot Glass Studio 71 Tillamook 604 Twain, Mark 362, 558 Volcano 558-9, 563 time 642 Tweetsie Railroad 260 volcanoes 622 tipping 647 Twilight saga 586 Vulture Mine 423, 431 Tishomingo State Park Twin Lakes 401, 403 248-9 Two Bunch Palms Spa W Tiverton 165-6 Resort 539 Wabasha 305-6 Tofte 316 Two Harbors 313-14, 319 Walden Pond 194 Toketee Falls 628 INDEX Waldo Lake 618 tourist information 648-9 U Wall Drug 350

T-W Touro Synagogue 166 Umpqua Hot Springs 628 War Veterans Memorial TouVelle State Park 627 Umpqua Lighthouse State Tower 157 Tower Fall 383 Park 608 Warner Bros Trail of Tears National Uncle Tom’s Trail 383 Studio Tour 494 Historic Trail 332 Union Pacific Railroad Warren 184-5, 187 train travel 57, 160, 271, 354, Museum 364 Warrior Fitness Trail 617 408, 643 Union Station, Denver 414 Washburn 366 transportation 23, 642-3, see United States Botanic Washburn Hot Springs also driving Garden 134 Overlook 383 Traverse City 297, 299 Universal Studios Washington, DC 28-9, 112, Tredegar Museum 117 Hollywood 494 134-5 Treman Falls 67 Upper Hawksbill Trail 128 Washington Pass 579 Tri-Cities 592-3 Washington State Capitol Trinity Church 208-9 V 584 Tropic 440, 441 vacations 647 Washita Battlefield National Truchas 455 Historic Site 333-4 Vail 400, 403 Truckee River Whitewater Water Valley 239 Valentine 344, 345 Park 552 Waterrock Knob Visitor Valle Crucis 259, 266 Tucumcari 42, 47 Center 265 Valley of Fire State Park 52 Tulsa 330-1, 335 Waterton Lakes National Tunica 237-8 Valley of the Gods 448 Park 392 Tunnel Log 521 Vanderbilt, George 265 Wawona 519-20, 525 Tunnel View 491, 517 Veldheer Tulip Gardens 295 weather 22 Tuolumne Meadows Venice 494 websites 23, 638, 644 516-17, 524 Vermont Country Store 180-1 Weeping Wall 390 Tupelo 249 Vermont Icelandic Horse weights 642 Farm 184 Tupelo-Baldcypress Weinberg Center for the Swamp 252 Viernes Culturales 223 Arts 105 Tusayan 428 Vietnam Veterans Weisman Art Museum 304 ­Memorial 105 Tusayan Museum Wenatchee 576 Vinita 46 & Ruin 430 Wenatchee National Tutwiler 239 Virgin 435 Forest 576 Tuzigoot National Virginia City 552 West Glacier 389, 393 Monument 425 visas 649 West Palm Beach 222, 225

666 Westfir 616-17, 623 Williston 366 Weston 180-1 Willow Street 89-91 Y whale-watching 608 Wilmington 180, 187 Yachats 605, 613 Wheeler Peak 455 Wilson 378 Yale University 196 White Silo Farm 154 Wimberley 473, 475, 477 Yaquina Head Whitefish 388-9, 393 Wind Cave National Park Lighthouse 605 Whiteoak Canyon Area 353-4 Yaquina Head Outstanding 125, 127 Windmill Farm & Craft Natural Area 605 Whitney Portal 547-8 Market 69 Yavapai Geology Museum 58 INDEX Wichita Mountains Wildlife Winslow 47 Yellowstone Forever

Refuge 333, 335 Winthrop 577, 581 Institute 383 W-Z Wickenburg 423, 431 Wizard Island 627 Yellowstone Lake 381-2, 385 wi-fi 22, 646 Wolfsonian-FIU 281 Yellowstone National Park 17, Wilbor House 164 Women’s Rights National 379-83, 385 Wild Gardens of Acadia 201 Historical Park 68 Yellowstone River 382 Wild Goose Island 392 Wonderland Trail 204 Yosemite National Park 491, Wilderotter Vineyard World’s Biggest 516-18 559-60 Dinosaurs 495 Yosemite Valley 517-18, 524 wildlife 382 World’s Largest Wildwoods 82, 85 Six-Pack 306 Z World’s Oldest Rodeo 424 Williams 57 Zion Canyon 436-7, 441 Wynwood Walls 223 Williamson, Sonny Boy Zion National Park 52 238, 239 Zumwalt Meadow 491, 493

667 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

BRENDAN SAINSBURY REGIS ST LOUIS

Originally from Hampshire (the ‘old’ one in England), Regis grew up in a small town in the American Brendan has been covering Seattle and the Pacific Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams Northwest for Lonely Planet for over a decade. He of travel – and he developed an early fascination is currently based in White Rock, BC, 45 minutes with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent south of Vancouver and just 2km from the US border. his formative years learning Russian and a handful Researching for this book, he enjoyed trying copious of Romance languages, which served him well new beers, getting drunk on coffee and doughnuts, on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has and taking his son (yet again!) to Seattle’s legendary contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, pinball museum. covering destinations across six continents. Follow him on www.instagram.com/regisstlouis.

RYAN VER BERKMOES MARA VORHEES

Ryan has written more than 110 guidebooks for Born and raised in St Clair Shores, Michigan, Mara Lonely Planet. He grew up in Santa Cruz, California, traveled the world (if not the universe) before which he left at age 17 for college in the Midwest, settling in the Hub. The pen-wielding traveler covers where he first discovered snow. All joy of this destinations as diverse as Belize and Russia, as well novelty soon wore off. Since then he has been as her home of New England. She lives in a pink house traveling the world, both for pleasure and for work – in Somerville, Massachusetts with her husband, two which are often indistinguishable. Read more at kiddies and two kitties. ryanverberkmoes.com and at @ryanvb.

BENEDICT WALKER KARLA ZIMMERMAN

Ben was born in Newcastle, Australia, and grew up in Karla lives in Chicago where she eat doughnuts, yells the ’burbs, spending weekends and long summers at the Cubs and writes stuff for books, magazines, by the beach whenever possible. Japan was the first and websites when she’s not doing the first two gig he got for Lonely Planet, in 2008, and he’s been things. She has contributed to 40-plus guidebooks blessed to have been asked back often since then. and travel anthologies covering destinations He really is someone who is living his dreams, though in Europe, Asia, Africa, North America and the life on the road can have its ups and downs. He’s also Caribbean – all of which are a long way from the early written and directed a play, toured Australia managing days, when she wrote about gravel for a construction the travel logistics for music festivals and is playing magazine and got to trek to places like Fredonia, around with photography and film-making. Join him on Kansas. To learn more, follow her on Instagram and his journeys on Insta­gram: @wordsandjourneys. Twitter (@karlazimmerman). STEPHEN LIOY CAROLYN MCCARTHY

Stephen is a photographer, writer, hiker, and travel Carolyn specializes in travel, culture and adventure in blogger. A ‘once in a lifetime’ Euro trip and post- the Americas. She has written for National Geographic, university move to China set the stage for what would Outside, BBC Magazine, Boston Globe and other eventually become a semi-nomadic lifestyle, based publications. A former Fulbright fellow and Banff on sharing his experiences and helping provide that Mountain Grant recipient, she has documented life in initial push out of comfort zones and into all that the the most remote corners of Latin America. Carolyn planet has to offer. Follow Stephen’s travels at www. gained her expertise by researching guidebooks in monkboughtlunch.com or on Instagram, Twitter, diverse destinations. She has contributed to over 30 Facebook, Pinterest, YouTube, or Google+ for regular guidebooks for Lonely Planet. For more information, photos and occasional witticisms. visit www.carolynmccarthy.org or follow her Instagram travels at @masmerquen.

HUGH MCNAUGHTAN BECKY OHLSEN

A former English lecturer, Hugh decided visa Becky is a freelance writer, editor and critic based in applications beat grant applications, and turned Portland, Oregon. She writes guidebooks and travel his love of travel into a full-time thing. Having also stories about Scandinavia, Portland and elsewhere done a bit of restaurant reviewing in his home town for Lonely Planet. (Melbourne, Australia), he’s now eaten his way across Europe and North America, and found the best way to work up an appetite for the USA’s great, gut-busting food is spending all day cycling through its stunning landscapes.

CHRISTOPHER PITTS KEVIN RAUB

Chris’s first expedition in life ended in failure when he Atlanta native Kevin Raub started his career as a tried to dig from Pennsylvania to China at the age of six. music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Hardened by reality but still infinitely curious about the Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched other side of the world, he went on to study Chinese in the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and has university, living for several years in China and Taiwan. written nearly 50 Lonely Planet guides, focused A chance encounter in an elevator led to a relocation to mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Paris, where he lived with his wife and two children for Caribbean and Portugal. Kevin also contributes to over a decade before the lure of Colorado’s sunny skies a variety of travel magazines in both the USA and and outdoor adventure proved too great to resist. His UK. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram website is www.christopherpitts.net. (@RaubOnTheRoad). GREGOR CLARK MICHAEL GROSBERG

Gregor has been exploring New England’s back roads Michael has worked on over 45 Lonely Planet since childhood, when he rode bikes through Cape guidebooks. Whether covering Myanmar or New Cod’s dunes, skated on frozen ponds in northwestern Jersey, each project has added to his rich and Connecticut and saw his first shooting star in complicated psyche and taken years from his (still?) Vermont’s Green Mountains. A lifelong polyglot with an relatively young life. Prior to his freelance writing insatiable curiosity for what lies around the next bend, career, other international work included development Gregor has contributed to over three dozen Lonely on the island of Rota in the western Pacific; South Planet guides, with an emphasis on North America, Africa, where he investigated and wrote about political Latin America and Europe. He lives with his wife and violence and helped train newly elected government daughters in Middlebury, VT. representatives; and Quito, Ecuador, as a teacher.

ASHLEY HARRELL MARK JOHANSON

After a brief stint selling day spa coupons door-to- Mark grew up in Virginia and has called five different door in South Florida, Ashley decided she’d rather countries home over the last decade. His travel- be a writer. She went to journalism grad school, writing career began as something of a quarter-life convinced a newspaper to hire her, and started crisis, and he’s happily spent the past eight years covering wildlife, crime and tourism, sometimes all in circling the globe reporting for Australian travel the same story. Fueling her zest for storytelling and magazines, British newspapers, American lifestyles the unknown, she traveled widely and moved often, and global media outlets. When not on the road, from a tiny NYC apartment to a vast California ranch you’ll find him gazing at the Andes from his home to a jungle cabin in Costa Rica, where she started in Santiago, Chile. Follow the adventure at www. writing for Lonely Planet. markjohanson.com.

ADAM KARLIN BRIAN KLUEPFEL

Adam is a Lonely Planet author based out of wherever Brian has worked for Lonely Planet across the he happens to be. Born in Washington, DC and raised Americas since 2006. He’s been the editor of the in the rural Maryland tidewater, he’s been exploring the Bolivian Times in La Paz, a correspondent for Major world and writing about it since he was 17. For him, it’s League Soccer, and a contributor to Frontier Airlines a blessedly interesting way to live life. Also, it’s good inflight magazine. His Lonely Planet adventures have fun. He just read two good quotes, so with thanks to taken him to Venezuela, Bolivia and even the pine Italy, ancient and modern: ‘Tutto il mondo e paese’ and barrens of New Jersey. His stories on Sleepy Hollow ‘Ambulare pro deus’. If you ever meet Adam on the road, Cemetery and the mines of Potosi, Bolivia, feature in be sure to share a drink and a story. Lonely Planet’s Secret Marvels of the World. CAROLYN BAIN AMY C BALFOUR

Australian-born Carolyn worked a glorious season After a stint as a writer’s assistant on Law & Order, Amy on Nantucket a decade or so back, and fell in love jumped into freelance writing, focusing on travel, food, with Cape Cod at first sight. Sand dunes and salt and the outdoors. She has hiked, biked, and paddled spray, history and wholesomeness, cozy inns and across Southern California and the Southwest. She seafood feasts: this was (and still is) the USA at its recently criss-crossed the Great Plains in search of most charming. On this trip, Maine made an awesome the region’s best burgers and barbecue. Her top picks adjunct, and she relished the chance to go beyond for US adventure include the cables of Half Dome, the lighthouses and lobsters to uncover craft brews, South Kaibab Trail to Phantom Ranch, the road to the moose trails and road-tripping nirvana. Racetrack Playa in Death Valley, and the doorbell at LA’s Museum of Jurassic Technology.

RAY BARTLETT LOREN BELL

Ray is a travel writer specializing in Japan, Korea, When Loren first backpacked through Europe, he Mexico and the United States. He has worked on was in the backpack. That memorable experience numerous Lonely Planet titles, starting with Japan corrupted his six-month-old brain, ensuring he in 2004. would never be happy sitting still. His penchant for peregrination has taken him from training dogsled teams in the Tetons to chasing gibbons in the jungles of Borneo – with only brief pauses for silly ‘responsible’ things like earning degrees. When he’s not demystifying destinations for Lonely Planet, Loren writes about science and conservation news.

SARA BENSON CELESTE BRASH

After graduating from college, Sara jumped on a The beauty of the Pacific Northwest coaxed Celeste plane to California with just one suitcase and $100 in back to the US after 15 years in Tahiti. For the last her pocket. She has bounced around the Golden State few years she’s revelled in exploring her new back ever since, including all over the San Francisco Bay yard, its mountains, coasts, wineries and fantastic Area, Los Angeles and the Sierra Nevada, where she restaurants, while getting back in touch with her worked as a seasonal national park ranger. Sara is the cowboy and Indian roots. Her award-winning writing author of over 70 travel and nonfiction books. has appeared in publications from BBC Travel to Afar and Islands Magazine and she’s contributed to about 60 Lonely Planet titles. OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen OUR Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across WRITERS Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing, and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

SIMON RICHMOND KATE ARMSTRONG

Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has Kate has spent much of her adult life traveling and specialized as a travel writer since the early 1990s living around the world. A full-time freelance travel and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on the journalist, she has contributed to around 40 Lonely Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting Planet guides and trade publications and is regularly the number of guidebooks he’s researched and published in Australian and worldwide publications. written for the company, but countries covered She is the author of several books and children’s include Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, educational titles. You can read more about her on Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, www.katearmstrongtravelwriter.com and @nomaditis. Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. For Lonely Planet’s website he’s penned features on topics from the world’s best swimming pools to the joys of Urban Sketching. Follow him on Instagram to see some of his photos and sketches.

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