For wine lovers around the world who enjoy wine and the good life Vol 16 Issue 1, Winter 2020 INDIA SommelierTHE WINE MAGAZINE
Has Indian Wine Arrived? A CRITICAL TAKE ON THE INDIAN WINE SCENE Roussillon Resurgent
SOMMELIER INDIA WINE MAGAZINE VOL 16 ISSUE 1, WINTER 2020 page 12 EMERGING INTO THE LIMELIGHT page 60 Hospices De Beaune A CHARITABLE INSTITUTION WITH A FASCINATING HISTORY page 32 Rajat Parr THE MAN OUTSIDE THE BOX page 42
CAROLINE FREY A WOMAN AND HER WINE ESTATES page 24
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Sommelier_India_Col_FP_297� 210 vineyard break PRINT 06 December 2019 11:56:30 from the editor
Which Wine? Twenty for 2020 Which wine should I drink is a question I am asked more often than I can say. So, as we step into the New Year, here is my list of twenty for 2020, including wine suggestions from SI friends and readers.
WHITE WINE 1. Cakebread Cellar Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Napa Valley, California. Rs 7,790. Importer Brindco Limited 2. Bouchard Aîné & Fils Chablis, Burgundy, France. Rs 4,000, Maharashtra. Importer Sula Selections 3. Joseph Drouhin La Foret Bourgogne Blanc-Chardonnay, Burgundy, France. Rs 3,500. Importer Prestige Wines and Spirits 4. La Reserve de Bourgogne-Chardonnay, Château D’Etroyes, Burgundy, France. Rs 3,000. Grover Zampa Vineyards 5. Susana Balbo, Torrontes, Salta, Argentina. Rs 2,984 in Maharashtra. Importer The Wine Park 6. Sula Dindori Reserve Chardonnay, Nashik, India. Rs 1050 in Maharashtra
RED WINE 1. Sandhi Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2017, Santa Barbara County, California. Price Rs 7,500 in Delhi. Importer Massale Wines. 2. Tenuta Sant Antonio, La Bandina, Valpolicella blend, Italy. Rs 5,282 in Maharashtra. Importer The Wine Park 3. M. Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Red 2016, Rhône Valley. Rs 4,630 in Delhi. Importer VBev 4. J’Noon Red 2017, Akluj, Maharashtra. Rs 4,000 in Delhi. Fratelli Vineyards 5. Insignia-Shiraz Amphora blend, Nashik, Maharashtra. Rs 3,500 in Delhi. Grover Zampa Vineyards 6. Vina Pomal Reserva Rioja, Tempranillo 2013, Spain. Rs 3,420 in Delhi. Reva K. Singh, Founder and Editor Importer VBev in Chief 7. Paul Jaboulet Aîné Paralléle 45 Côtes du Rhône, Rhône Valley, France. Price Rs 3,100 in Maharashtra. Importer Gusto Imports 8. Rasa Cabernet Sauvignon, Nashik, Maharashtra. Rs 2,200 in Delhi. Sula Vineyards 9. KRSMA Syrah 2016, Hampi Hills, Karnataka. Rs 2,000 in Karnataka. KRSMA Estates 10. KRSMA Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Hampi Hills, Karnataka. Rs 2,000 in Karnataka. 11. Sette 2015, Sangiovese-Cabernet Sauvignon blend, Akluj, Maharashtra. Rs 1,800. Fratelli 12. Le Grand Noir Pinot Noir, Bordeaux, France. Rs 1,550 in Maharashtra. Sula Selections
ROSÉ 1. Château de Montfaucon Le Demoiselle Rosé 2018, Lirac, France. Rs 5,000 in Delhi. Importer AR Exports 2. MS Rosé Sangiovese Akluj, Maharashtra. Rs 1,280 in Delhi. Fratelli Vineyards
JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 1 contents VOL 16: ISSUE 1, WINTER 2020 `250
07 OENOPHILE’S NOTEBOOK News, views and trends for 48 the wine buff
10 WINE PRIMER How to understand wine names
12 HAS INDIAN WINE ARRIVED? Columnist Raghu Bahadur is back after a short break, casting a critical eye on the Indian wine scene
14 CHANGING TRENDS IN CHAMPAGNE Champagne is currently undergoing a greater revolution than any other wine region, writes Jancis Robinson 32 BUILT ON SALT, RUN ON wines were a powerful tool of 18 ALWAYS READ THE WINE WINE political seduction. PRINT Julia Sherstyuk-Viswanathan Steven Spurrier on Académie du looks back into the fascinating 38 JEAN-CHARLES BOISSET’S Vin Library, his new imprint for lovers history of the Hospices de Beaune HOMAGE TO NAPA VALLEY of fi ne writing and fi ne wine when salt was a gold-bringer and 1881 Napa, the new wine history museum is a must-see, 20 CELEBRATING CALIFORNIAN must-taste destination, FOOD AND WINE AT MANRESA 68 writes Mira Advani Shoba Narayan enjoys a meal at Honeycutt Manresa, a jewel of a restaurant in Los Gatos 42 RAJAT PARR – THE MAN 24 CAROLINE FREY, A WOMAN OUTSIDE THE BOX AND HER WINE ESTATES Shagun Mehra Caroline Frey’s approach to profi les the rise of a winemaking has won her plaudits Calcutta boy who is across some of France’s most one of the world’s fi nest important wine regions. sommeliers and a cult Rahoul B Singh reports winemaker
2 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 36
Volume 16 Issue 1 Winter 2020
Founder Reva K Singh Publisher Shiv B Singh Advisory Council Dhruv M Sawhney – New Delhi Steven Spurrier – London Ravi Viswanathan – Singapore
Editor in Chief Reva K Singh Chief Copy Editor Bunny Suraiya Tastings Co-ordinator Gagan Sharma
Correspondents – India 46 KEEPING UP WITH THE 72 ALTO ADIGE 2019 SUMMIT Raghu Bahadur, Brinda Gill, Aditi TIMES Michèle Shah reports from the Alto Pai, Kaveri Ponnapa, Ruma Singh Importers of spirits and champagne, Adige summit on the unique wines of Correspondents – Overseas Renu Chahil-Graf – EU, Rosemary Monika Enterprises are now a unique geographical location George – UK, Mira Advani targetting the consumer, Honeycutt – US, Jancis Robinson reports Brinda Gill 76 CHEF JODHA ON – UK, Michèle Shah, Alessandra Piubello – Italy, Steven Spurrier – RAJASTHAN’S ROYAL CUISINE UK, Carol Wright – UK 48 ENCHANTING ABRUZZO Kaveri Ponnapa discusses Contributing writers Abruzzo, on the Adriatic coast in Rajasthani cuisine with Chef Akshraj Alok Chandra, Roopa Gulati, central Italy is a lesser known wine Jodha, executive chef at the ITC Suneeta S. Kanga, Shoba Narayan, Gagan Sharma region waiting to be discovered, Windsor, Bengaluru Administration and Accounts writes Alessandra Piubello Harendra Singh 79 WINE LOVERS COOKBOOK Design Inkspot Inc 54 SHERRY, AN IDEA WHOSE Plummy fare for all the year Layout Artist T M Jose TIME HAS COME Printed at Gagan Sharma offers a 80 PHOTO FINISH EIH Ltd, Unit Printing Press, comprehensive review of the Memorable moments in wine Plot no. 22, Sector 5, IMT Manesar, Haryana - 122050 marvellous produce of Spain’s from SI’s photo album Sherry Triangle Sommelier India is a controlled 82 GLOSSARY circulation quarterly produced by CMI, Consolidated Media Int, 60 ROUSSILLON RESURGENT Of foreign terms and wine jargon C-320, Defence Colony, New Delhi – The Roussillon wine region has 110 024, India. T +91-11-2433-1013. E [email protected]. emerged from the shadow of W www.sommelierindia.com. Languedoc to stand on its own 79 merit. Rosemary George reports Subscription: One year `1000. Two years `2000. Three, `3000. The views expressed in the 66 DENBIES – A SINGLE ESTATE publication are the writers’ own ENGLISH WINE PRODUCER and not necessarily those of the Denbies in the Surrey Hills is publishers. England’s largest single estate wine producer with 107ha under vines, writes Carol Wright
JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 3 contributors Sommelier India Wine Magazine is written by some of the best wine writers in the world. Our cast of writers includes wine experts, wine and food writers, professional journalists as well as emerging writers. We regard our stable of regular contributors as our most valuable resource.
Raghu Bahadur Brinda Gill has Shagun Mehra worked as a banker a graduate degree in is a gastronomic for 42 years in Economics (Hons) explorer who travels India and abroad. from Lady Shri the world unearthing While abroad he Ram College, New all things food and started writing freelance and, more Delhi, and a masters from Gokhale wine. She enjoys international repute importantly, got his first introduction Institute, Pune. One of her major as a chef who stands for the treasures to real wine. When he returned to interests is discovering the unique of regional cuisines of India. Currently India he was pleasantly surprised wealth of India through the country’s her thali is filled with her NGO “Ear to find that what earlier used to be living heritage, crafts and people. to the Wild Foundation”, an initiative passed off as wine had disappeared, She enjoys writing on these subjects to save elephants from train collisions. and the rejuvenated wine industry and travelling. Brinda is the Pune A qualified WSET trainer who co- was thriving. He started writing correspondent for SI magazine and founded the KBR School of Wine in for Sommelier India ten years ago, reports on the recent upgrade of Mumbai, the first wine school in the projecting the viewpoint of a non- Monika Enterprises’ portfolio. country, Shagun Mehra returns to the expert who loves wine and is not too pages of SI with a write-up on Rajat fussy about the finer points of pairing. Mira Advani Parr, sommelier and winemaker. Honeycutt is based One of the in the wine region Shoba Narayan first women of Paso Robles, is an award- Masters of Wine, California and is the winning author and Rosemary George wine editor of PASO Magazine. She columnist and the is highly regarded recently curated “The Winemakers author of four books. among the UK’s wine writers. She of Paso Robles” and a large format She writes about wine and spirits for contributes to Decanter magazine colour coffee table book. She is also a number of publications including and decanter.com and writes a blog, the author of “California’s Central Mint Lounge and SI and talks to wine www.tastelanguedoc.blogspot.com. Coast, The Ultimate Winery Guide: experts at the Indian Wine Podcast, Altogether Rosemary has written 13 From Santa Barbara to Paso Robles.” (www.indianwinepodcast.com). She books, and most recently, “The Wines Her stories on the wine and food is passionate about wines preferring of the Languedoc” published in 2018, culture of California’s Central Coast floral Alsatian wines that go with her and a third edition of “The Wines of feature in the Napa Valley Register. vegetarian diet. Shoba graduated from Chablis and the Grand Auxerrois” Mira describes the opening of the the Columbia Journalism School which published in June 2019, by Infinite Napa Valley’s first wine history awarded her a Pulitzer Fellowship Ideas. Rosemary makes the case here museum in this issue. and is an alumnus of Mount Holyoke for not clubbing Roussillon with College, Massachusetts and Women’s Languedoc. Christian College, Chennai. Here
4 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Shoba describes a very special experience FIJEV. Michèle contributes to the world’s Besides being a at one of California’s top restaurants. leading wine publications and is CEO senior member of of Exceptional Travel to Italy (www. the SI team, Rahoul Alessandra micheleshahtravel.com). Here she brings is also a practising Piubello is a us up to speed with the latest news from architect with his own journalist from Verona Italy’s Alto Adige region. firm and dreams of designing a winery and the editor-in-chief one day! He is a faculty member at the of several magazines Gagan Sharma is School of Planning and Architecture in (including Queen International and a certified sommelier Delhi and is an alumnus of the Rhode Prince) as well as the author of books on from the Court of Island School of Design in the US. Here wine, and wine and food tourism. She Master Sommeliers, Rahoul shares his experience of visiting is the co-editor of the “Veronelli Guida UK, and holds a the properties of Maison Paul Jaboulet Oro I Vini” wine guide. She collaborates WSET Diploma. Gagan learnt his trade Aîné in France. with Italian magazines such as Spirito di in Australia, with a Masters degree in Vino, Artù, Cook_inc, Cucina e Vini Hospitality Management (specialising Steven Spurrier and international ones like Spirito di in wines) from Victoria University, is a world-renowned Vino Asia and Decanter. Alessandra is a Melbourne. He is lucky to have married British wine expert. member of prestigious associations and a his passion with his job, working as a A long standing constant presence at the most important wine educator and sommelier at Wi- member of the SI wine competitions worldwide. In this issue Not Beverage Solutions. When not Advisory Council, he is consultant editor she writes about Italy’s not so well known working, he enjoys his time trekking in of Decanter wine magazine and founder wine region, Abruzzo. the Himalayas and visiting historic sites. of the Académie du Vin and Christie’s Gagan is the coordinator of the AdV/ SI Wine Course. In addition to authoring Kaveri Ponnapa Tasting Panel. In this issue he gives us his and co-authoring several wine books, his is an author and perspective on Sherry. autobiography, “Wine – A Way of Life” independent writer was released in London in June 2018 and based in Bengaluru. Julia Sherstyuk- in Delhi in November 2018. Earlier this Kaveri graduated Viswanathan is the year, he launched the prestigious imprint, from Lady Shri Ram College, New Delhi, founder and editor-in- Académie du Vin Library. Steven has and took a Master’s Degree in Social chief of a Singapore- been mmortalized in the movie, “The Anthropology at SOAS, University of based Russian-English Judgement of Paris.” London. Her articles on food, wine, lifestyle magazine, “103rd Meridian travel and heritage appear in leading East”. She enjoys writing on cultures Carol Wright is publications. Her first book, “The and history and now spends most of her a freelance writer Vanishing Kodavas”, is an extensive time in France in order to research the based in the UK but cultural study of the Kodava people wines of Jura and Burgundy. She also travelling the world. (www.kaveriponnapa.com). Here Kaveri started and ran the first ever authentic Carol writes extensively talks to Executive Chef Akshraj Jodha. Russian restaurant in Singapore, which on food, wine and restaurants and has was in the spotlight of world media for its written 30 books on food and travel. Michèle Shah is acquisition of the oldest Veuve Clicquot She has been the chairman of the a wine, food, travel bottles recovered from the Baltic Sea British Guild of Travel Writers twice, writer and wine critic shipwreck. In this issue she writes about is a member of the Society of Authors, based in Florence. Hospices de Beaune. and chairperson of local history and She is an honorary environmental societies. Carol has member of Donne del Vino in Italy, The Rahoul B Singh is keenly interested recently helped set up a local wine Circle of Wine Writers in the UK and in wine and contributes articles while tasting group. In this issue she reports on the international journalist association, overseeing the design of the magazine. Denbies wine estate.
JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 5 readers write
Photo: Satyajit S Gill Taking a punt is a gem of a city, enclosed The Wine Clinic by old stone walls edged explanation given for the by a moat. Within the deep indent, called a “punt”, ramparts is a vibrant living at the base of a bottle of town of artisans, imposing champagne which helps old churches, museums, to equally distribute the restaurants and Weinstadel, internal pressure caused by the former wine depot, one the effervescence, which of the largest half-timbered can reach 40 kg, was very structures in Germany and interesting. But there is a fascinating labyrinth of Weinstadel, former Wine Depot built in 1446-48 another ingenious use underground cellars cut into for the punt. Fans of PG rock for maturing beer that sugar, lieblich is more than relaxed atmosphere. While Wodehouse might recall a go back to the 14th century. halbtrocken but less than 45g. I appreciate the rationale member of Bertie Wooster’s With all the sightseeing a We also came across the behind the terminology, Drones Club – I think it bit of food and drink is always traditional Bocksbeutel, I have long felt that this might have been Bingo welcome and we had plenty a wine bottle in the form descriptive tag smacks of Little, but I’m not sure – of options of food, beer of a flattened ellipsoid, condescension, whether it who would lay bets that he (including smoked and red in which wines from is to the wine novice, or to could make a magnum of beer) and wines. Germany has Franconia are bottled. And the wine itself. Wine is often Champagne (1.5 litres) hold 13 wine-growing regions and finally, the perfect drink likened to music played on more than a magnum. there is a diversity of wines for wrapping up a spot of the taste buds, and to me, When his wager was on account of the different sightseeing is Glühwein, a “Easy drinking” is like “Easy accepted, he would upend soil and grape varieties in delicious, warming mulled listening” elevator music a la an unopened bottle of the different regions. The wine, served in deep blue Mantovani. champagne, take another, white wine grape varieties are mugs bearing a vista of I’d like to suggest a couple opened bottle of champagne Riesling, Silvaner, Kerner, the city at Glühweinhaus of alternatives which might and fill the punt of the first Bacchus, Müller-Thurgau, at Hauptmarkt, the main do the job equally well bottle, thereby making the Scheurebe. The reds include market square. without the undertaste magnum bottle hold more Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), Brinda Gill, Pune of being patronising. than a magnum! What did Domina, Schwarzriesling “Approachable” is one he do with the money he (Pinot Meunier). Easy drinking? possibility, and “Accessible” won? Silly question. Spent The word trocken meaning Many wine platforms, is another. Perhaps SI could it on Champagne, of course. dry appears on many labels including SI, frequently use ask contributors and readers Jug Suraiya, Gurgaon indicative of the level of the term, “easy drinking” to come up with their own residual sugar and acid in the to describe a wine which suggestions. A gem of a city wine. Very simply, trocken is is suitable for newcomers Who knows? SI could help The Old Town of Nuremberg, less than 9g/L residual sugar, to oenology, or which to change the vocabulary of the second-largest city of the halbtrocken meaning half-dry is meant to be drunk wine classification! state of Bavaria in Germany is less than 18g/L residual uncritically in a casual and Jug Suraiya, Gurgaon
6 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 oenophile’s Tips, news and trends for the wine enthusiast notebook Compiled by Team SI Recent honours for Sommelier India ur normal way of life that SI contributing was admitted into the Ois low key. We like writer, Sovna Puri is prestigious Confrérie to fly below the radar and a Future 50 Awards des Chevaliers du we rarely blow our own Winner and the only Tastevin of Burgundy. trumpet. But last month Indian in the final The same honour was unusual. First, we were list that has awardees was conferred on thrilled to get the news from 14 countries. Ravi Viswanathan, Sovna was selected Sommelier India from a global list of Advisory Council 600 professionals. The member and Future 50 Awards is chairman of Grover an initiative by Wine Zampa Vineyards. & Spirit Education The old tasting-cup Trust (WSET) and o na uri, a e el 4 Diploma older and used by tasters and International Wine WSET Certifi ed Educator is qualifi ed to wine producers, the teach up to Level 3 & Spirit Competition tastevin ict re (IWSC) to select 50 ‘Under establishment. And second, o erlea is the historic 40’ future influencers of no less gratifying, is the emblem of Burgundy’s wine the global drinks industry news that Reva K Singh, our producing and gastronomic Ravi Viswanathan, chairman of Grover Zampa Vineyards to mark 50 years of their founder and editor in chief, heritage.
WHICH WINE Arnaud Droz, Ceo, Frederic Three wines to try Geoffroy Director and Flo- rian Barbaro Director — are ere are three new Merlot and 20% Cabernet all French nationals with a Hwines to keep a look Franc. Calvet is a well-known strong India connection and out for. Imported by Faus- brand in France under the love for the country. Keen tine Imports Pvt Ltd, under prestigious Les Grands Chais to bring the two countries the brand name Calvet, de France group. Jean Marie together through wine and the wines are a white and Calvet founded the winery gastronomy, their goal is to two reds: Calvet Chardon- in Bordeaux in 1823. Today make available to Indian con- nay (100%), Calvet Merlot the brand is one of the most Faustine is a unique com- sumers quality French wines (100%) and the more premi- trusted in the world for its pany. An Indian company that are well priced and won’t um Calvet Reserve with 80% exceptional quality of wines. whose three shareholders — burn a hole in your pocket.
JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 7 WINE QUIZ Five easy questions to test A Taste of France in Mumbai your wine knowledge.
1. What was Napoleon’s favourite wine? he elegant doors of the heritage village in Bordeaux a. Gevrey- Chambertin TGolconda Ballroom producing rich red wines – is b. Amorne della Valpolicella c. Patrimonio at the Trident Hotel at BKC a certified organic producer, Mumbai were thrown open belonging to the most recent 2. What is vin orange (orange wine)? to wine aficionados for a and smallest Bordeaux a. Wine flavoured with orange tasting of French wines at a appellation, Francs Cotes de peels b. A white wine reception organised jointly by Bordeaux. Château Franc c. A rosé wine the Consulate of France with Cardinal 2016 with 70% 3. Which champagne was Business France & Tastin’ Merlot, stood out with a lot served to guests at the 1981 France. of gamey, meaty, farmyard wedding of Prince Charles and Lady Diana? Sonia Barbry, Consul characters. The palate was soft a. Veuve Clicquot b. Bollinger General of France in her brief and rounded, comparatively c. Moët et Chandon speech welcomed the French much softer tannins than
4. Where is the highest delegation representing three the Boissonneau Collection vineyard located? different regions in France from the same region. The a. In Chile b. In Argentina – Champagne, Cahors in white wine was a blend of c. In Nepal southwest France and St Sauvignon, Semillon and 5. Which wine is popular for Emilion in Bordeaux. Muscadelle with green its fuel like aroma? Leopoldine Champagne, Nicolas Boissonneau, Ceo of fruits and grassy characters a. High quality German Vignobles Boissonneau Riesling with its distinctive style, set the dominant. Here too, the b. Austrian Grüner Veltliner ball rolling with Exaltation de Cana. Historically, these alcohol was slightly out of
c. British wine
5. High quality German Riesling. German quality High 5. Blanc de Blancs 2013, made wines were known as ‘black balance.
the Andes mountains. mountains. Andes the planted at an altitude of 10,000 ft in in ft 10,000 of altitude an at planted from 100% Chardonnay, wines’ due to their very high Vignobles Boissonneau
4. In Argentina. Altura Maxima is is Maxima Altura Argentina. In 4. redolent with brioche and tannic content and longevity. have been producing wines
for Pol Roger. Pol for
3. Bollinger. Kate and William opted opted William and Kate Bollinger. 3. biscuit notes followed by La Fiancée 2018 was an for 180 years and became a
contact like a red wine. red a like contact
from a white grape vinified with skin skin with vinified grape white a from green apple and lemon. Dry unusual rosé, made from certified organic winery in
2. A white wine. Orange wine comes comes wine Orange wine. white A 2. bottle of it at each meal. each at it of bottle and creamy on the palate, 100% Malbec. The skin is in 2010. The high humidity
de Nuits. It is said that he drank half a a half drank he that said is It Nuits. de possibly because of extended contact with the juice for only in Bordeaux results in
This Burgundy wine is from the Côte Côte the from is wine Burgundy This 1. Gevrey- Chambertin Gevrey- 1. contact with lees. Première one hour to extract colour. fungal infections, and it
Answers Fois Brut 2013 came next It has a fresh, fruity, lively is a challenging task to in which the nose and palate nose although the alcohol is produce organic wines here. were dominated by green and slightly out of balance on the CEO Nicolas Boissonneau citrus fruit resulting in a lean, palate. The reds, dominated mentioned they lost a light and refreshing wine. by Malbec were approachable whopping 70% of their crop The Adoration Rosé that with soft tannins, unlike what in the 2018 harvest. Evidently, followed was 60% Meunier is usually seen in the wines being committed to organic with notes of raspberry, from Cahors, which are big, farming comes with its own
Although no longer in general use, strawberry and grapefruit. bulky and robust. costs and risks! the tastevin cup, in solid silver or From the Cahors region in The next winery, Nicolas brought a total of silverplate, has a raised design so that the appearance and colour southwestern France where Château Franc Cardinal eight wines for us to taste. of the wines, especially the reds, the black grape Malbec is just 20 minutes away from The two whites were dry, fresh can be appreciated. native, we tasted Les Roques St Emilion – a medieval, and well balanced. One was
8 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 DINING OUT a 50-50 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, and Hereby hangs a foxy tale therefore light and refreshing, while the other included ox in the Field is the 10% Muscadelle which gave Fstory of a clever Fox in the wine a more aromatic Whitefield, Bangalore. The nose. The palate was a notch Fox can be visited in his den heavier with mellow acidity. spread over four floors where Among the six reds, two you will be nourished with that really stood out were food, crafty brews and foxy Château de La Vieille Tour concept cocktails. That’s all 2016 Bordeaux Supérieur, a the details we are going to blend of 50% Merlot, 30% give you. In short, it’s a new Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% watering hole worth a visit. Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec You first have to ‘Enter the with red and black fruit, spice, Fox’, visit the ‘Fox in his and floral notes on the nose. Den’, be entertained by ‘Fox Fox in the Field restaurant interior The wine had such a complex on Stage’ and when you’ve And all shall be revealed! His den opens at 12 noon nose and generous palate, had enough, ‘Chase Fox and To book a spot, call the at Forum Shantiniketan, it was hard to believe that it the Moon’ to the terrace. Fox on: +91 80 2501 8119. Whitefield, Bangalore was completely unoaked but aged in steel tanks for a year and another year in bottle, Hallelujah – Mouton Rothschild’s before release and sells in France for a mere €5.50. The newest art label next wine that caught my eye Left: Philippe Sereys was the Château de la Vieille de Rothschild, Camille Sereys de Rothschild and Tour Réserve Tradition 2016 Julien de Beaumarchais Bordeaux Supérieur. A 50-50 de Rothschild, owners of Château Mouton Rothschild blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Priced at €7.50 in objects, shapes and words France, it was easily one of from everyday life to create my favourites. The selection poetry – from the joyful to of wines presented by the the startling – marked by her French delegation showcased very year since 1945, a feminism. Her label titled different terroirs and wine Efamous artist has been “Hallelujah” combines milk styles. French tradition is given complete freedom to and wine, which are often to pair wines with food create an original label for associated together in the and these wines would pair the new vintage. This year the Bible. The 2017 wines are admirably with a variety of owners of Château Mouton rich, with an attractive tannic cuisines, whether a French Rothschild commissioned structure, full bodied and confit de canard, an Italian the French artist Annette pleasantly fresh. A Bordeaux prawn ravioli or a delicious Messager for the 2017 label. First Growth château, Mouton tandoori from closer home. Known around the world for Rothschild has 84 hectares of — Sovna Puri her creativity, Messager uses vines at Pauillac in the Médoc.
JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 9 WINEPRIMER How to Understand Wine Names
With varietals, you know what you’re for quality and taste upheld by regional getting: if you’re buying a Pinot Noir, wine officials. A place name on a you know it contains Pinot Noir grapes. European wine therefore represents both high quality and the type of grapes Sole Grapes and Principal Grapes used to make that wine. A Burgundy, If a wine is made from just one for example, must be made from Pinot grape, it’s named after that sole grape. Noir grapes. But some varietal wines are blends of a few different grapes. In blends, the Other Wine Names varietal is named after its principal •Proprietary names In recent years grape – the grape that makes up the the number of wines with fancy, largest part of the blend – as long as meaningless names like “Opus” or that grape exceeds a certain percentage “Phantom” has increased. Usually, of the entire wine. The rules for wines are given these names when their naming a wine after a principal grape specific blends of grapes are ineligible What’s differ slightly by region. In California, for varietal names. Though wines with in a a varietal must contain at least 75% proprietary names may seem gimmicky, name? of the grape for which it’s named. some actually are high quality. In Oregon, the requirement is 90%. •Generic names In the early years of If a wine contains no one grape that winemaking in the United States and exceeds the necessary percentage, then Canada, winemakers often named their the wine can’t be named after a grape. wines after famous foreign wines such But there’s no rule forcing a wine as Burgundy and Chablis even if their t can be hard to figure out what company to tell you whether a varietal wines tasted nothing like Burgundy Iexactly you’re buying or ordering is made from just one grape or a blend. or Chablis. Even today, the US and based solely on the name of a wine. So when you’re drinking your next Canadian governments allow wine For instance, you might not expect Pinot Noir, it may be only 75% Pinot, companies to use generic names that that a Burgundy and a Pinot Noir not 100%. This isn’t necessarily a bad have no connection to the taste or quality would be made from the same grape. thing: varietal blends can be better of the wine. The most common generic But in fact they are – the Pinot Noir than the 100% “pure” varietals that go names used in the United States and grape. This confusion exists because by the same name. Canada are Burgundy, Chianti, Chablis, European wines are named according Champagne, Sherry, Port, Rhine, and to different rules from those used for Europe Wines Named For Places Sauterne. If you’re buying one of these wines made anywhere else. The best European wines are named wines, check where it’s made – it’s the after the place where they’re made real thing only if it’s from Europe. New World Wines Named For Grapes rather than the grapes from which •Brand names The brand name Most of the wines grown in the United they’re made. Wine has been made in identifies the company that makes States, South America, and Australia Europe for so long that winemakers a particular wine. Most wine labels are varietals, which means that they’re now know where each grape grows best. contain both a wine name and a brand named after the variety of grape they This knowledge has been codified into name. If you come across a wine that contain. Varietal wine naming makes law: in order for a wine to be named has only a brand name, beware: these sense, since the greatest determining after a place, that wine must be made are usually low-quality European wines factor of a wine’s characteristics is the from the grapes that grow best in that that failed to win the right to use a type of grape from which it’s made. place and must meet rigorous standards place name. Inc. and Noble 2008 Barnes Wine Copyright Credit: SI’s Archives. From
10 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 WINECLINIC Your Questions Answered
What is resveratrol? wines are made. Well-known Resveratrol is a polyphenolic varieties of vitis vinifera compound with antioxidant are the familiar Cabernet properties that is produced Sauvignon and Chardonnay in the skins of grapes in as well as such esoteric and response to fungus attacks worthy varietals as Chasselas, and stress. Because red thought to be the oldest wines are fermented in known grape still in use today contact with the skins, they and Torrontes, a delicate acquire more resveratrol white that is a specialty of than white wines and carry northern Argentina. more potential antioxidant benefits than white wines What is the significance of or other alcoholic beverages. “vintage”? Other sources of resveratrol Vintage is the year in which in food include blueberries, the grapes are harvested. raspberries, mulberries, and Every year is a vintage, but peanuts. in some years the weather conditions are better than Are all wines meant to be in others. Better weather aged? usually means a better Not at all. More than 90% harvest with a higher rating of all the wines produced for that particular vintage in the world are meant to or year. It also means the be drunk within one year. chance of a better wine that Wines change with age. will age well. Some for the better but most for the worse. Less than one I like dry wines. How do I per cent of the world’s wines know which wines are dry? should be aged for more than Most table wines are dry, ie, five years. with little or no sugar. During fermentation, yeast converts Can you explain the term grape sugars into alcohol. If vitis vinifera? all, or nearly all, of the sugar Vitis vinifera is the European converts, with less than 10 species of grapevine which grams of residual sugar per produce grapes grown litre remaining, the wine is around the world from which considered ‘dry’. 99 per cent of the world’s — Reva K. Singh
JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 11 RAGHUBAHADUR Columnist Raghu Bahadur is back – to the delight of his followers – after a brief break, casting a critical eye on the Indian wine scene
Has Indian wine arrived?
mean, ‘arrived’ as in “Has Indian malt Luckily, their enthusiasm was matched by whisky arrived?”, “Have Indian tech other incipient wine-smitten entrepreneurs, who start-ups arrived?” or “Have Indian angel decided to follow the same path, although on a Iinvestors arrived?”. Yes, doubtless they all smaller scale. Some of them were professional have, except that in so far as wine is concerned, people who, while pursuing successful careers the yes is a little ‘iffy’. abroad, had developed an abiding love for wine, What is remarkable about Indian wine’s attended winemaking courses, then packed up achievement is the speed at which it has travelled their bags and returned home to make wine. – not a timid crawl but a speedy scramble over They were accustomed to maintaining high uncertain terrain – starting virtually from scratch. standards, and put this trait to admirable use as To be sure, prior to the 1990s, there did exist an rookie winemakers. Indian wine industry of sorts, comprising a few This then was India’s wine scene at the turn wines of sorts, which catered to an unwitting of the century or thereabouts – a half-dozen clientele of sorts. After that a tsunami swept the or so winemakers driven by a passion for scene, signalling the advent of the wine industry wine, exercising rigorous quality control and as we know it today. putting some good, quality Indian wine on the So, who, and what brought about the revival consumer’s table. The group that welcomed this of Indian wine? The credit goes mostly to the ‘arrival’ consisted mainly of baby boomers and two principal producers – then and now – the early, and hence older, Gen X. Ironically, and continues to be for their foresight and for this group initially turned up their noses at putting their money where their palate was. They Indian wine. But, in their defence, let it be said acquired large tracts of land in the vine growing that there is a good chance they were turned regions of Nashik and Bengaluru, imported wine off Indian wine by their exposure to its earlier saplings from old-world vineyards, employed inferior avatar, and still carried the scars. foreign experts, and, with the impetus of their However, they began drinking it soon enough, love for wine, got down to the serious business though with an outward show of reluctance, of production. It was therefore no surprise that, accompanied with comments like “not bad for for the first time, Indian wine picked up from the an Indian wine”. Thankfully, it did not take store shelf could be drunk in the comfort of one’s long for the “not bad” to be replaced by “pretty home, and confidently offered to guests. good”. In their estimation Indian wine had
12 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 ‘arrived’. These are the stalwarts who have contribution as consumers is now somewhat helped Indian wine receive the ungrudging limited – maybe a case or two per year – but their acceptance of, yes, Indians themselves. oral support afforded a certain status to wine during a critical period. They won’t be around he real pioneers in the arrival of wine much longer but the distinctive aura they created are of course the wine producers around everything vinous will ensure that there Tthemselves, as well as the unsung is no dearth of wine lovers in the country. heroes of the baby boomers and GenX, who The print media in India has made its own have selflessly been actually drinking and noteworthy contribution to the cause of wine. promoting Indian wine, with nary a word of The daily newspapers’ social pages keep their complaint. This altruistic duty is being carried page three devotees well informed about the forward honourably by GenY, otherwise known myriad benefits of wine and, since it has gained as millennials, and older members of GenZ. So considerable ground, also about the etiquette it is, that there now exists a partnership between associated with it as a party drink. As for serious the wine producers and generations X, Y and writing there is at present only one magazine – Z, working for the benefit of each other – the Sommelier India. In a relatively short period it has former keeps the latter hydrated, and the latter attained a matchless standard comparable to returns the compliment by keeping the former the best of foreign publications. With excellent in a state of liquidity. international and Indian writers, it has received Let us raise Two other groups merit inclusion as worthy accolades from far and near. Their interns go on a toast to the contributors to the cause of wine. First, let us to become food and wine critics: one of them unheralded raise a toast to the unheralded contribution of is currently being trained at a wine institute women who do need a separate mention.They in Bordeaux. And now, even as I write, comes contribution are generally averse to hard liquor but had the the news that Reva K Singh, SI’s founder and of women social need to have a drink in hand to last them editor-in-chief has achieved the rare distinction who, although through the course of an evening, which had of being selected as a member of Confrérie usually been met with a glass of juice or aerated des Chevaliers du Tastevin. A well-deserved automatically drink. As social mores evolved this practice recognition for SI. a part of the changed for the better, with wine taking the alphabetic place of the soft drink. Women are good judges would have wrapped up my piece with this generations of wine, using their sensitive palates and keen happy news, but the ‘iffiness’ mentioned olfactory sense to good effect. They have infused Iat the start remains to be addressed. The X, Y and Z, the great Indian party circuit with fresh life by argument is that, at a spoonful per person need a separate cheerfully adopting wine as their preferred social per annum, the consumption of wine in mention drink, and by acting as catalysts in initiating the India is abysmally low, ranking behind even uncommitted to the joys of wine. Women who Afghanistan, and militates against the ‘arrival’ like drinking wine with close friends and have tag. In answer let us just say that the number of formed exclusive women only groups for this wine drinkers as a proportion of the population purpose. They meet regularly at each other’s is itself abysmally low, and will remain so for a houses for a few – and then a few more – glasses long time to come. To bring the consumption of wine in convivial company. up to just the one-and-a-half spoonful level The second group that deserves a toast is – still abysmally low – would necessitate an the pre-baby boomers. They first suffered increase in production of 15 million litres. So the onslaughts of inferior Indian wine and let us simply ascribe this argument to statistical later, savouring the progressive stages of the tyranny and ignore it, recalling Lord Disraeli’s ‘arrived’ wine, they gave their unequivocal comment, “There are three kinds of lies; lies, approval. Getting a little long in the tooth, their damned lies and statistics.” v
JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 13 JANCISROBINSON ‘You could argue that currently Champagne is undergoing a greater revolution than any other wine region’
Changing trends in Champagne
t seems only moments ago that wine formula of milking the vines to produce large producers the world over routinely, volumes of under-ripe grapes and then beefing and enviously, cited Champagne up both base wine and the finished wine Ias the model of a commercially with added sugar seems to be in retreat, and successful wine. nowadays champagne is much more likely to But things have changed. Champagne sales have been made from grapes that absorbed real have been slowing. Vast numbers of wine character from their time on the vine. drinkers are just as happy with Prosecco. In The sea change in viticulture is the change my own country, English sparkling wine is most obvious to a visitor who has not been now regarded as just as socially acceptable as to the region for a few years. In the old days champagne. there wasn’t a living thing between the rows of And perhaps the greatest changes have been tired vines – just heaps of thinly-spread refuse A major in the vineyards and cellars of the Champagne from Paris. It was always jarring to see scraps change that region. You could argue that currently of bright blue plastic in the vineyards. Today has taken place Champagne is undergoing a greater revolution we are seeing the fruits of a region-wide policy remarkably than any other wine region. The most obvious to encourage much more sustainable ways change is in the climate. Virtually all wine of growing vines (more earthworms!), with quickly is the regions are experiencing more and more cover crops, benign weeds, and ever-increasing veneration hot summers, but this matters particularly numbers of growers adopting organic, and of growers as in Champagne where high acids have been even biodynamic practices – not always an easy treasured in the base wines to be made fizzy. path in such a relatively damp climate. opposed to the Average acid levels have been falling, and I Another major change that has taken place big houses think you can taste in many champagnes that remarkably quickly is the organisation and the grapes were riper than in the past. even veneration of growers as opposed to the This is not necessarily a bad thing. The old big houses. The region has always been divided
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politico-economically between the 16,000 farmers who grow the grapes and those who make the wine. At one time those were two very distinct activities but the line has become blurred, especially as the houses increasingly acquire vineyards. Thousands of Champagne’s vine growers sell all the grapes they grow to a house and/or one of the co-ops that are so important in Champagne (Krug buys from several of them). But in recent years much of the media noise about champagne has been focused on the best examples of growers who make their own champagne. There is no shortage of very ordinary grower champagne, but the best winemaking growers (récoltant-manipulants) have sensibly banded together to form groups who show their latest wares in the region every April, attracting trade and press from around the world. Because such Sparkling wine is growers tend to give maximum information on that add complexity to the blends of more now regarded just as their back labels, the difference between each venerable producers. But what they can offer, socially acceptable as year’s cuvées is very clear, so it is screamingly which many of the big houses do not, is Champagne obvious that they are showing something new terroir-specific wines. Although houses such as every year – something for journalists to write Philipponnat, Billecart-Salmon and Krug offer about and importers to rave about. Compare single-vineyard champagnes as part of their and contrast with the non vintage blends that range, growers are much more likely to offer comprise over 80% of a typical champagne wines that are fashioned by one small area in house’s output. What is there to report? Champagne – because that’s where their vines When they first burst on the international are. (The big houses buy in grapes from all over wine scene, the best grower champagnes the region.) Many a grower champagne back seemed great bargains, but prices have been label will tell you exactly where the grapes were catching up with their reputations and this, grown, as well as when. alas, is no longer the case. Another trend also flies in the face of the traditional champagne mantra that blending ne current, very noticeable trend is is all. We’re seeing more and more varietal for the younger generation to inherit champagnes, those made from a single grape Othe family vineyards and decide to variety. Of course we have long had many make wine for the first time. This is inevitably all-Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs to choose capital-intensive – not just because of all the from, but now champagnes made from Pinot equipment and cellar space needed but because Meunier are far from uncommon, or ones champagne has to be aged much longer before labelled Pinot Noir, or even champagnes made release than most still wines. Because of this, from the region’s more obscure grapes such as many of them continue to sell some grapes to Arbane and Petit Meslier. Novelties rather than finance their winemaking. great wines, perhaps, but signs of real evolution When they launch their new label they and experimentation in a region that used to won’t have the stocks of older reserve wines be so complacently static.
JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 15 of deliberately extending their ageing period. The most obvious change perhaps has been the reduction in dosage, the mix of wine and sugar with which bottles are topped up immediately after the frozen sediment has been expelled from the upended bottles. (The introduction of computerised, mechanical riddling of the sediment on to the cork has made hand riddling almost extinct in the Champagne region, although neighbours Billecart-Salmon and Philipponnat continue the tradition – perhaps they employ the same strong-wristed people?) A dosage as high as 12g/l used to be routine, especially in an era when grapes struggled to reach what was then the legal minimum potential alcohol of 7% (it’s 9% today). Today even big, commercial houses may employ a dosage of only about 7g/l, thanks to those Champagne is an Just as many still wine producers are moving riper grapes. And then there is an unavoidable easy wine to pair with light foods away from oak, the Champenois are head over fashion, particularly among certain growers, for heels in love with it, producers using increasing champagnes with an even lower, or no, dosage. proportions of oak barrels for ageing the base Zero Dosage is regarded by some as a badge of wines, typically large and well-used. And, honour, but I must say that I find some of the yes, I have seen fashionable concrete eggs in resulting wines just too austere for comfort, Champagne too. even if age can compensate for a low dosage. But one benign effect of increasingly here used to be a doctrinal difference ripe grapes is the increase of interest in between houses that suppressed the producing still Coteaux Champenois. During Tmalolactic conversion of harsh acids a concentrated tour of the region last June into softer ones and the rest. But now, with I was shown several very respectable still Over recent acidity at a premium, I would guess that the Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. I also noted the years I have malo is less routinely sought even by those in rehabilitation of rosé champagne – no longer noticed the second camp. regarded as a commercially useful afterthought. champagne Over recent years I have noticed champagne And then there is the very welcome increase becoming less fizzy, with many producers in the number of champagne producers becoming less preferring a gentle, persistent mousse to an prepared to share information about what’s fizzy, with aggressive one. To achieve this, some houses in the bottle – whether via small print on the many producers and growers are adding rather less sugar with back label, a number or a QR code – with their the yeast that invokes the second fermentation customers. preferring in bottle. It also seems to me that the average All of this adds up to the fact that, overall, a gentle, length of time wines are aged on the lees of champagne is better quality than it has ever persistent that fermentation has been increasing. This been. v mousse to an would be a natural result of slowing sales, of Jancis Robinson’s latest book, co-authored with course, but I hear more and more producers, Hugh Johnson, is the eighth edition of The World aggressive one particularly houses that can afford it, boasting Atlas of Wine published in October 2019
16 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 THE ART OF WINE. DOWN TO EARTH.
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So li ia i ll i : COLUMN Always read the wine print! Steven Spurrier describes his plans for Academie du Vin Library, a new imprint for lovers of fine writing and fine wine
ho would have thought that a lunch his close friend and erstwhile publisher, Simon with two of my old friends Hugh McMurtrie, whom I had got to know well when WJohnson and Ben Howkins in the he was managing the ill-fated Wine Society of early summer of 2018 would have blossomed into India on behalf of our partners, Laithwaites. A The Academie du Vin Library? A new venture meeting in September ended with an agreement to that is determined to bring back and support the go ahead and it was up to me to choose our first “literature” of wine, which between April 30 and book. With agreement from all sides, this was to be November 25, 2019 has seen the publication of a Commemorative Edition of Michael Broadbent’s no fewer than four books. seminal “Wine Tasting”, which for me was where it Over that lunch I was bemoaning the fact all began. I have always said that the only difference that books today are either densely researched between drinking and tasting wine is ‘paying reference books (and if they are not researched The books attention’ and this is what Michael and his book they are not worth reading) or “What to Buy” that taught taught me to do. Wines will give up their secrets if books full of punchy tasting notes and high you listen to what they are saying. Hugh Johnson rankings. Neither type was for me, for the books me about wine defines a fine wine as “a wine worth talking about” that taught me about wine in the 1960s were as in the 1960s and this is where our books come in, by telling the much about places and people as they were about were as much stories behind the labels. Forget about ‘value for the wines themselves, and those were the stories about places money’; think rather ‘value for pleasure’. that stuck in my mind. “What is to be done?” I Following the launch of Michael’s book just asked, to which Hugh Johnson replied, “You and people two weeks before his 92nd birthday, we launched should recreate it yourself.” as they were “Ten Great Wine Families”, Fiona Thienpont This took me back to 1987 when, seeing the about the wines MW’s superbly written and illustrated inside chalk-based fields on the farm my wife had just story of the best that Europe has to offer. bought in Dorset, I put a couple of little blocks themselves In July, Ben Howkin’s “Sherry, Maligned, in my pocket to take to Paris where I was still Misunderstood, Magnificent” was launched managing the Academie du Vin wine school, in Jerez de la Frontera and in London in early to show to Michel Bettane, my top professor October. And finally “In Vino Veritas”, our to-be and now since many years the top wine critic annual compendium on the best of wine writing in France. “Where do you think these are from the past and the present, was launnched in from?” “Champagne, of course”. “No, from November. This, as we freely admit, is an admiring south Dorset.” “In that case you should plant a copy of “The Compleat Imbiber”, a wonderfully vineyard.” Twenty-two years later the first vines erudite and eccentric series of books from the for Bride Valley Vineyard began to take root. world of wine compiled under the editorship For the Academie du Vin Library things of the great Cyril Ray, books which were every moved much faster. Hugh declared he would wine lover’s must-have Christmas present. From be an “uncle” to the project and would contact just a hopeful suggestion that we might try to do
18 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 that’s why the team will be putting their heads together during the coming months to see in what ways we can broaden the scope of what we offer to include not just books, but more extensive online content, international themed tastings and wine-inspired travel opportunities. It also gives me great pleasure to be assisting my former Decanter magazine colleague, Christelle Guibert, as she breathes new life into the International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC), the world’s oldest, which this year (along with the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET)) celebrates its 50th birthday. With everything else going on, it’s all too easy to forget that without the wine producers themselves we wouldn’t have any wines to write about – and that without an opportunity to shine, to be talked about, they might be most unjustly ignored.
always like to think of our books being perused with a bottle of wine close at hand Steven Spurrier pictured something similar, the team threw itself into holding up a copy of Iand a good example of this connection was “In Vino Veritas”, at the action and we did it, a wonderful end to the the launch of “In Vino Veritas” at 67 Pall Mall. launch of the book at year and promise for the future. 67 Pall Mall, London We could have done this over a glass or two of And for 2020 there are six more books in the bubbles (from Bride Valley Vineyard, of course) pipeline, commencing with “Château Musar” but I preferred to offer a Master Class of six to coincide with this legendary Lebanon estate’s wines from my Dorset cellar, all from the superb 90th anniversary, “A Viking in the Vineyards” the 2005 vintage. Here they are: memoirs of much-travelled Danish winemaker • Chablis Grand Cru Valmur Domaine Peter Vinding-Diers and “On Bordeaux”, our Christian Moreau. take on the history and future of the world’s • Corton Grand Cru Bressandes Domaine most famous red wine. Our basic aim is to create Prince Florent de Merode. a true library, so that if someone discovers us • Domaine de Chevalier Grand Cru Classé de in a year or two’s time they will find a dozen or Graves. more very varied books to choose from, which we • Cornas Vieilles Vignes Domaine Alain Voge. intend to keep in print. • Vinedo Chadwick Maipo Valley Chile. Since the 1960s when I was learning from • Niederhauser Herrmannsschule Riesling books with evocative titles – “The Wayward Spatlese Weingut Donnhof. Tendrils of the Vine”, “Stay me with Flagons” All six had lain in my cellar in three cases – the wine world has grown unbelievably more since their purchase “en primeur” and this complex and multi-faceted. These days, I venture was the first time I had tasted them. They were to suggest, it is not so much pure knowledge that superb and since wine is all about the pleasure people are looking for in wine writing, but words of sharing, I also offered my last two bottles of to embellish the experience of encountering, Dow’s 1975 Vintage Port, which wrapped up the of tasting, of drinking and remembering. And evening with pleasurable warmth. v
JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 19 SHOBANARAYAN shares a memorable meal with her daughter at Manresa, a jewel of a restaurant in Los Gatos Celebrating at Manresa California wine and food
few months ago, my daughter, Domaine de la Romanée Conti, which retail Ranjini, fractured her ankle and upwards of $3000. Big bang wines apart, there Arequired surgery. She works in the are smaller, thoughtfully produced California Bay Area. When I asked her where we should wines by the glass, the half-bottle or the bottle. go for a dinner to celebrate her recovery, she I particularly enjoyed learning about the Santa didn’t hesitate. Manresa of course, a jewel Cruz area vineyards including Ridge (which of a restaurant in Los Gatos that won three has been written about in the New Yorker) and Michelin stars in 2015. also smaller producers like Thomas Fogarty, Chef-Owner David Kinch mixes Japanese, and Varner, which I later visited for well-priced Manresa’s 50- French and Catalan influences in his cuisine Pinot Noirs. page wine list with balance, aplomb and restraint. The Like Blue Hill restaurant in upstate New covers all tastes late great TV show host, Anthony Bourdain York, Manresa too espouses a sustainable farm- has called Kinch’s cooking “wildly creative to-table approach and has partnerships with (and pockets) … beautifully presented and surprisingly several local producers. This is because Chef including minimalist – very, very tasty.” Manresa Kinch likes, more than anything, ingredients several vintages routinely gets named among the top 100 wine- with provenance. This applies to wines as well of Domaine de restaurants in the US. Last year, it was only as foods. “I like and appreciate all wines that one of two restaurants in Northern California exhibit a sense of where they are from and are la Romanée named in Wine Spectator’s “9 wine restaurants made by someone with passion and a respect Conti, which worth the hype.” The other was Quince in San for details,” he says. retail upwards Francisco. As for pairing his food with wines, Kinch Its 50-page wine-list covers all tastes prefers an unfussy approach. “Wine pairing of $3000 (and pockets) including several vintages of should work (as both wine and food do
20 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Photo credit: David Spiegelman Wagstaff Photo credit: Chris Schmauch
David Kinch, right, chef-owner of the popular Michelin-starred restauarnt, Manresa, serves exquisite Californian cuisine that combines Japanese, French and Catalan influences
separately) with a sense of harmony and expensive but on par with other fine dining balance. I tend to lean towards the classics restaurants in the US. and then search for nuance but in general, I might as well start with the highlight of the especially in a long tasting-menu, I try not to dinner. It happened three courses in, when have too much going on. It is confusing and Chef Kinch appeared like a genie beside our Sharing wine gets in the way of enjoyment.” table, bearing a closed dish. He opened it with information Ranjini and I arrived for dinner and were a flourish and said, “Smell this.” Inside was a ushered in by wine director and Master white-on-white combination of grilled cabbage, with diners Sommelier, Jim Rollston. Sharing wine koshihikari rice and matsutake mushrooms. without information with diners without making them Simple, sublime with haunting flavours, making them feel like students is an art and Rollston has reminiscent of an Onsen (Hot Spring Bath) at feel like perfected this. Mount Fuji, the dish paired spectacularly well “When pairing food with wine, vegetarian with a 2014 Clos de la Chapelle Volnay with its students is or otherwise, I like to consider the weight of woody, earthy tones matching the mushrooms. an art and the dish as well as the cooking techniques, and Another terrific wine-pairing was a 2017 Rollston has generally look to pair lighter wines with more Gruner Veltliner (a favourite of mine for its delicate foods whose preparation emphasizes slightly bitter taste) with an artichoke and perfected this that delicacy, and stronger wines for weightier piccolo faro (an “ancient grain” derived from foods with more intensely flavoured cooking wheat), cooked and presented perfectly so methods,” he says. that the vegetal taste complimented the herbal Both of us had opted for a vegetarian tasting character of the wine. with paired wines priced at $295 for the food Every Michelin-starred restaurant worth its salt and $235 for the wine per person, which is has mastered the art of presentation. For me, some
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“Into the Vegetable Garden”, a perfect vegetarian dish combining berries, greens, and edible flowers in a translucent dressing standouts include Carme Ruscalleda’s tasting menu in Barcelona, Grant Achatz’s Alinea in Chicago and Gagan Anand’s Bangkok menu. However, the most beautiful dish I have ever seen presented has got to Wine Director be, “Into the Vegetable Garden,” where a perfect was neither. Instead, flavours were layered and Jim Rollston combination of berries, greens, edible flowers and orchestrated with wine. Melons and preserved figs selects a translucent dressing all offer an “unbearable with a crisp 2016 Billaud-Simon Chablis had me his wines carefully from lightness of being,” that is ineffable. asking for more. The two reds included a 2002 an extensive The pairing though was brave: a locally brewed Château Montelena, which I had tasted before collection and surprises diners rustic ale that was as refreshing as Champagne. at home, but oh, how great it tasted in that Zalto with his wine Says Kinch, “A good rule of thumb for me is stemware that they have. Rollston, whose personal pairings complex wines match well with simpler, straight taste runs to German Rieslings, Northern Rhône forward foods. Complex dishes deserve simpler Syrah, and all types of red wine from Piemonte, wines. The reason? You want the intangibles to gave us a 2016 Côte-Rôtie with a sculpturally shine through and stand on their own. In a sense, presented dish of maitake, carrots, peach and to enhance.” pistachio – a seemingly incongruous combination Most mediocre American restaurants resort that blends seamlessly. to two things when doing a wine pairing for a The service staff at Manresa has perfected the vegetarian: they add cheese with a heavy hand art of materialization. They manifest when needed and use Portobello mushrooms to provide the and disappear like a sigh. No one is better at this chargrilled flavour of a steak. At Manresa there than the restaurant’s general manager, Jenny Yun, who appeared when we were fumbling, to soothe Rollston paired a Côte-Rôtie and answer. Running a restaurant enterprise like with a dish of maitake, carrots, this is a formidable task, and Yun performs it with peach and pistachio – a seemingly quiet elegance. More than anything, my daughter and I were incongruous combination that delighted to share a fantastic meal in each other’s blends seamlessly company. That we did so in Manresa was a gift. v
22 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA