For lovers around the world who enjoy wine and the good life Vol 16 Issue 1, Winter 2020 SommelierTHE WINE MAGAZINE

Has Indian Wine Arrived? A CRITICAL TAKE ON THE INDIAN WINE SCENE Roussillon Resurgent

SOMMELIER INDIA WINE MAGAZINE VOL 16 ISSUE 1, WINTER 2020 page 12 EMERGING INTO THE LIMELIGHT page 60 Hospices De Beaune A CHARITABLE INSTITUTION WITH A FASCINATING HISTORY page 32 Rajat Parr THE MAN OUTSIDE THE BOX page 42

CAROLINE FREY A WOMAN AND HER WINE ESTATES page 24

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Which Wine? Twenty for 2020 Which wine should I drink is a question I am asked more often than I can say. So, as we step into the New Year, here is my list of twenty for 2020, including wine suggestions from SI friends and readers.

WHITE WINE 1. Cakebread Cellar 2016, Napa Valley, California. Rs 7,790. Importer Brindco Limited 2. Bouchard Aîné & Fils Chablis, Burgundy, . Rs 4,000, . Importer Sula Selections 3. Joseph Drouhin La Foret Bourgogne Blanc-, Burgundy, France. Rs 3,500. Importer Prestige and Spirits 4. La Reserve de Bourgogne-Chardonnay, Château D’Etroyes, Burgundy, France. Rs 3,000. Grover Zampa 5. Susana Balbo, Torrontes, Salta, Argentina. Rs 2,984 in Maharashtra. Importer The Wine Park 6. Sula Dindori Reserve Chardonnay, , India. Rs 1050 in Maharashtra

RED WINE 1. Sandhi Sta. Rita Hills 2017, Santa Barbara County, California. Price Rs 7,500 in Delhi. Importer Massale Wines. 2. Tenuta Sant Antonio, La Bandina, Valpolicella blend, Italy. Rs 5,282 in Maharashtra. Importer The Wine Park 3. M. Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Red 2016, Rhône Valley. Rs 4,630 in Delhi. Importer VBev 4. J’Noon Red 2017, Akluj, Maharashtra. Rs 4,000 in Delhi. Fratelli Vineyards 5. Insignia-Shiraz Amphora blend, Nashik, Maharashtra. Rs 3,500 in Delhi. Grover Zampa Vineyards 6. Vina Pomal Reserva , Tempranillo 2013, Spain. Rs 3,420 in Delhi. Reva K. Singh, Founder and Editor Importer VBev in Chief 7. Paul Jaboulet Aîné Paralléle 45 Côtes du Rhône, Rhône Valley, France. Price Rs 3,100 in Maharashtra. Importer Gusto Imports 8. Rasa , Nashik, Maharashtra. Rs 2,200 in Delhi. 9. KRSMA Syrah 2016, Hampi Hills, . Rs 2,000 in Karnataka. KRSMA Estates 10. KRSMA Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Hampi Hills, Karnataka. Rs 2,000 in Karnataka. 11. Sette 2015, Sangiovese-Cabernet Sauvignon blend, Akluj, Maharashtra. Rs 1,800. Fratelli 12. Le Grand Noir Pinot Noir, Bordeaux, France. Rs 1,550 in Maharashtra. Sula Selections

ROSÉ 1. Château de Montfaucon Le Demoiselle Rosé 2018, Lirac, France. Rs 5,000 in Delhi. Importer AR Exports 2. MS Rosé Sangiovese Akluj, Maharashtra. Rs 1,280 in Delhi. Fratelli Vineyards

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 INDIA 1 contents VOL 16: ISSUE 1, WINTER 2020 `250

07 OENOPHILE’S NOTEBOOK News, views and trends for 48 the wine buff

10 WINE PRIMER How to understand wine names

12 HAS INDIAN WINE ARRIVED? Columnist Raghu Bahadur is back after a short break, casting a critical eye on the Indian wine scene

14 CHANGING TRENDS IN Champagne is currently undergoing a greater revolution than any other wine region, writes Jancis Robinson 32 BUILT ON SALT, RUN ON wines were a powerful tool of 18 ALWAYS READ THE WINE WINE political seduction. PRINT Julia Sherstyuk-Viswanathan Steven Spurrier on Académie du looks back into the fascinating 38 JEAN-CHARLES BOISSET’S Vin Library, his new imprint for lovers history of the Hospices de Beaune HOMAGE TO NAPA VALLEY of fi ne writing and fi ne wine when salt was a gold-bringer and 1881 Napa, the new wine history museum is a must-see, 20 CELEBRATING CALIFORNIAN must-taste destination, FOOD AND WINE AT MANRESA 68 writes Mira Advani Shoba Narayan enjoys a meal at Honeycutt Manresa, a jewel of a restaurant in Los Gatos 42 RAJAT PARR – THE MAN 24 CAROLINE FREY, A WOMAN OUTSIDE THE BOX AND HER WINE ESTATES Shagun Mehra Caroline Frey’s approach to profi les the rise of a has won her plaudits Calcutta boy who is across some of France’s most one of the world’s fi nest important wine regions. and a cult Rahoul B Singh reports winemaker

2 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 36

Volume 16 Issue 1 Winter 2020

Founder Reva K Singh Publisher Shiv B Singh Advisory Council Dhruv M Sawhney – Steven Spurrier – London Ravi Viswanathan –

Editor in Chief Reva K Singh Chief Copy Editor Bunny Suraiya Tastings Co-ordinator Gagan Sharma

Correspondents – India 46 KEEPING UP WITH THE 72 ALTO ADIGE 2019 SUMMIT Raghu Bahadur, Brinda Gill, Aditi TIMES Michèle Shah reports from the Alto Pai, Kaveri Ponnapa, Ruma Singh Importers of spirits and champagne, Adige summit on the unique wines of Correspondents – Overseas Renu Chahil-Graf – EU, Rosemary Monika Enterprises are now a unique geographical location George – UK, Mira Advani targetting the consumer, Honeycutt – US, Jancis Robinson reports Brinda Gill 76 CHEF JODHA ON – UK, Michèle Shah, Alessandra Piubello – Italy, Steven Spurrier – RAJASTHAN’S ROYAL CUISINE UK, Carol Wright – UK 48 ENCHANTING ABRUZZO Kaveri Ponnapa discusses Contributing writers Abruzzo, on the Adriatic coast in Rajasthani cuisine with Chef Akshraj Alok Chandra, Roopa Gulati, central Italy is a lesser known wine Jodha, executive chef at the ITC Suneeta S. Kanga, Shoba Narayan, Gagan Sharma region waiting to be discovered, Windsor, Bengaluru Administration and Accounts writes Alessandra Piubello Harendra Singh 79 WINE LOVERS COOKBOOK Design Inkspot Inc 54 , AN IDEA WHOSE Plummy fare for all the year Layout Artist T M Jose TIME HAS COME Printed at Gagan Sharma offers a 80 PHOTO FINISH EIH Ltd, Unit Printing Press, comprehensive review of the Memorable moments in wine Plot no. 22, Sector 5, IMT Manesar, Haryana - 122050 marvellous produce of Spain’s from SI’s photo album Sherry Triangle Sommelier a controlled 82 GLOSSARY circulation quarterly produced by CMI, Consolidated Media Int, 60 ROUSSILLON RESURGENT Of foreign terms and wine jargon C-320, Defence Colony, New Delhi – The Roussillon wine region has 110 024, India. T +91-11-2433-1013. E [email protected]. emerged from the shadow of W www.sommelierindia.com. Languedoc to stand on its own 79 merit. Rosemary George reports Subscription: One year `1000. Two years `2000. Three, `3000. The views expressed in the 66 DENBIES – A SINGLE ESTATE publication are the writers’ own ENGLISH WINE PRODUCER and not necessarily those of the Denbies in the Surrey Hills is publishers. England’s largest single estate wine producer with 107ha under vines, writes Carol Wright

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 3 contributors Sommelier India Wine Magazine is written by some of the best wine writers in the world. Our cast of writers includes wine experts, wine and food writers, professional journalists as well as emerging writers. We regard our stable of regular contributors as our most valuable resource.

Raghu Bahadur Brinda Gill has Shagun Mehra worked as a banker a graduate degree in is a gastronomic for 42 years in Economics (Hons) explorer who travels India and abroad. from Lady Shri the world unearthing While abroad he Ram College, New all things food and started writing freelance and, more Delhi, and a masters from Gokhale wine. She enjoys international repute importantly, got his first introduction Institute, . One of her major as a chef who stands for the treasures to real wine. When he returned to interests is discovering the unique of regional cuisines of India. Currently India he was pleasantly surprised wealth of India through the country’s her thali is filled with her NGO “Ear to find that what earlier used to be living heritage, crafts and people. to the Wild Foundation”, an initiative passed off as wine had disappeared, She enjoys writing on these subjects to save elephants from train collisions. and the rejuvenated wine industry and travelling. Brinda is the Pune A qualified WSET trainer who co- was thriving. He started writing correspondent for SI magazine and founded the KBR School of Wine in for Sommelier India ten years ago, reports on the recent upgrade of Mumbai, the first wine school in the projecting the viewpoint of a non- Monika Enterprises’ portfolio. country, Shagun Mehra returns to the expert who loves wine and is not too pages of SI with a write-up on Rajat fussy about the finer points of pairing. Mira Advani Parr, sommelier and winemaker. Honeycutt is based One of the in the wine region Shoba Narayan first women of Paso Robles, is an award- Masters of Wine, California and is the winning author and Rosemary George wine editor of PASO Magazine. She columnist and the is highly regarded recently curated “The Winemakers author of four books. among the UK’s wine writers. She of Paso Robles” and a large format She writes about wine and spirits for contributes to Decanter magazine colour coffee table book. She is also a number of publications including and decanter.com and writes a blog, the author of “California’s Central Mint Lounge and SI and talks to wine www.tastelanguedoc.blogspot.com. Coast, The Ultimate Winery Guide: experts at the Indian Wine Podcast, Altogether Rosemary has written 13 From Santa Barbara to Paso Robles.” (www.indianwinepodcast.com). She books, and most recently, “The Wines Her stories on the wine and food is passionate about wines preferring of the Languedoc” published in 2018, culture of California’s Central Coast floral Alsatian wines that go with her and a third edition of “The Wines of feature in the Napa Valley Register. vegetarian diet. Shoba graduated from Chablis and the Grand Auxerrois” Mira describes the opening of the the Columbia Journalism School which published in June 2019, by Infinite Napa Valley’s first wine history awarded her a Pulitzer Fellowship Ideas. Rosemary makes the case here museum in this issue. and is an alumnus of Mount Holyoke for not clubbing Roussillon with College, Massachusetts and Women’s Languedoc. Christian College, Chennai. Here

4 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Shoba describes a very special experience FIJEV. Michèle contributes to the world’s Besides being a at one of California’s top restaurants. leading wine publications and is CEO senior member of of Exceptional Travel to Italy (www. the SI team, Rahoul Alessandra micheleshahtravel.com). Here she brings is also a practising Piubello is a us up to speed with the latest news from architect with his own journalist from Verona Italy’s Alto Adige region. firm and dreams of designing a winery and the editor-in-chief one day! He is a faculty member at the of several magazines Gagan Sharma is School of Planning and Architecture in (including Queen International and a certified sommelier Delhi and is an alumnus of the Rhode Prince) as well as the author of books on from the Court of Island School of Design in the US. Here wine, and wine and food tourism. She Master Sommeliers, Rahoul shares his experience of visiting is the co-editor of the “Veronelli Guida UK, and holds a the properties of Maison Paul Jaboulet Oro I Vini” wine guide. She collaborates WSET Diploma. Gagan learnt his trade Aîné in France. with Italian magazines such as Spirito di in Australia, with a Masters degree in Vino, Artù, Cook_inc, Cucina e Vini Hospitality Management (specialising Steven Spurrier and international ones like Spirito di in wines) from Victoria University, is a world-renowned Vino Asia and Decanter. Alessandra is a Melbourne. He is lucky to have married British wine expert. member of prestigious associations and a his passion with his job, working as a A long standing constant presence at the most important wine educator and sommelier at Wi- member of the SI wine competitions worldwide. In this issue Not Beverage Solutions. When not Advisory Council, he is consultant editor she writes about Italy’s not so well known working, he enjoys his time trekking in of Decanter wine magazine and founder wine region, Abruzzo. the Himalayas and visiting historic sites. of the Académie du Vin and Christie’s Gagan is the coordinator of the AdV/ SI Wine Course. In addition to authoring Kaveri Ponnapa Tasting Panel. In this issue he gives us his and co-authoring several wine books, his is an author and perspective on Sherry. autobiography, “Wine – A Way of Life” independent writer was released in London in June 2018 and based in Bengaluru. Julia Sherstyuk- in Delhi in November 2018. Earlier this Kaveri graduated Viswanathan is the year, he launched the prestigious imprint, from Lady Shri Ram College, New Delhi, founder and editor-in- Académie du Vin Library. Steven has and took a Master’s Degree in Social chief of a Singapore- been mmortalized in the movie, “The Anthropology at SOAS, University of based Russian-English Judgement of Paris.” London. Her articles on food, wine, lifestyle magazine, “103rd Meridian travel and heritage appear in leading East”. She enjoys writing on cultures Carol Wright is publications. Her first book, “The and history and now spends most of her a freelance writer Vanishing Kodavas”, is an extensive time in France in order to research the based in the UK but cultural study of the Kodava people wines of Jura and Burgundy. She also travelling the world. (www.kaveriponnapa.com). Here Kaveri started and ran the first ever authentic Carol writes extensively talks to Executive Chef Akshraj Jodha. Russian restaurant in Singapore, which on food, wine and restaurants and has was in the spotlight of world media for its written 30 books on food and travel. Michèle Shah is acquisition of the oldest Veuve Clicquot She has been the chairman of the a wine, food, travel bottles recovered from the Baltic Sea British Guild of Travel Writers twice, writer and wine critic shipwreck. In this issue she writes about is a member of the Society of Authors, based in Florence. Hospices de Beaune. and chairperson of local history and She is an honorary environmental societies. Carol has member of Donne del Vino in Italy, The Rahoul B Singh is keenly interested recently helped set up a local wine Circle of Wine Writers in the UK and in wine and contributes articles while tasting group. In this issue she reports on the international journalist association, overseeing the design of the magazine. Denbies wine estate.

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 5 readers write

Photo: Satyajit S Gill Taking a punt is a gem of a city, enclosed The Wine Clinic by old stone walls edged explanation given for the by a moat. Within the deep indent, called a “punt”, ramparts is a vibrant living at the base of a bottle of town of artisans, imposing champagne which helps old churches, museums, to equally distribute the restaurants and Weinstadel, internal pressure caused by the former wine depot, one the effervescence, which of the largest half-timbered can reach 40 kg, was very structures in Germany and interesting. But there is a fascinating labyrinth of Weinstadel, former Wine Depot built in 1446-48 another ingenious use underground cellars cut into for the punt. Fans of PG rock for maturing beer that sugar, lieblich is more than relaxed atmosphere. While Wodehouse might recall a go back to the 14th century. halbtrocken but less than 45g. I appreciate the rationale member of Bertie Wooster’s With all the sightseeing a We also came across the behind the terminology, Drones Club – I think it bit of food and drink is always traditional Bocksbeutel, I have long felt that this might have been Bingo welcome and we had plenty a wine bottle in the form descriptive tag smacks of Little, but I’m not sure – of options of food, beer of a flattened ellipsoid, condescension, whether it who would lay bets that he (including smoked and red in which wines from is to the wine novice, or to could make a magnum of beer) and wines. Germany has Franconia are bottled. And the wine itself. Wine is often Champagne (1.5 litres) hold 13 wine-growing regions and finally, the perfect drink likened to music played on more than a magnum. there is a diversity of wines for wrapping up a spot of the taste buds, and to me, When his wager was on account of the different sightseeing is Glühwein, a “Easy drinking” is like “Easy accepted, he would upend soil and grape varieties in delicious, warming mulled listening” elevator music a la an unopened bottle of the different regions. The wine, served in deep blue Mantovani. champagne, take another, white wine grape varieties are mugs bearing a vista of I’d like to suggest a couple opened bottle of champagne , , Kerner, the city at Glühweinhaus of alternatives which might and fill the punt of the first Bacchus, Müller-Thurgau, at Hauptmarkt, the main do the job equally well bottle, thereby making the Scheurebe. The reds include market square. without the undertaste magnum bottle hold more Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), Brinda Gill, Pune of being patronising. than a magnum! What did Domina, Schwarzriesling “Approachable” is one he do with the money he (Pinot Meunier). Easy drinking? possibility, and “Accessible” won? Silly question. Spent The word trocken meaning Many wine platforms, is another. Perhaps SI could it on Champagne, of course. dry appears on many labels including SI, frequently use ask contributors and readers Jug Suraiya, Gurgaon indicative of the level of the term, “easy drinking” to come up with their own residual sugar and acid in the to describe a wine which suggestions. A gem of a city wine. Very simply, trocken is is suitable for newcomers Who knows? SI could help The Old Town of Nuremberg, less than 9g/L residual sugar, to oenology, or which to change the vocabulary of the second-largest city of the halbtrocken meaning half-dry is meant to be drunk wine classification! state of Bavaria in Germany is less than 18g/L residual uncritically in a casual and Jug Suraiya, Gurgaon

6 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 oenophile’s Tips, news and trends for the wine enthusiast notebook Compiled by Team SI Recent honours for Sommelier India ur normal way of life that SI contributing was admitted into the Ois low key. We like writer, Sovna Puri is prestigious Confrérie to fly below the radar and a Future 50 Awards des Chevaliers du we rarely blow our own Winner and the only Tastevin of Burgundy. trumpet. But last month Indian in the final The same honour was unusual. First, we were list that has awardees was conferred on thrilled to get the news from 14 countries. Ravi Viswanathan, Sovna was selected Sommelier India from a global list of Advisory Council 600 professionals. The member and Future 50 Awards is chairman of Grover an initiative by Wine Zampa Vineyards. & Spirit Education The old tasting-cup Trust (WSET) and ona uri, a eel 4 Diploma older and used by tasters and International Wine WSET Certifi ed Educator is qualifi ed to wine producers, the teach up to Level 3 & Spirit Competition tastevin ictre (IWSC) to select 50 ‘Under establishment. And second, oerlea is the historic 40’ future influencers of no less gratifying, is the emblem of Burgundy’s wine the global drinks industry news that Reva K Singh, our producing and gastronomic Ravi Viswanathan, chairman of Grover Zampa Vineyards to mark 50 years of their founder and editor in chief, heritage.

WHICH WINE Arnaud Droz, Ceo, Frederic Three wines to try Geoffroy Director and Flo- rian Barbaro Director — are ere are three new and 20% Cabernet all French nationals with a Hwines to keep a look Franc. Calvet is a well-known strong India connection and out for. Imported by Faus- brand in France under the love for the country. Keen tine Imports Pvt Ltd, under prestigious Les Grands Chais to bring the two countries the brand name Calvet, de France group. Jean Marie together through wine and the wines are a white and Calvet founded the winery gastronomy, their goal is to two reds: Calvet Chardon- in Bordeaux in 1823. Today make available to Indian con- nay (100%), Calvet Merlot the brand is one of the most Faustine is a unique com- sumers quality French wines (100%) and the more premi- trusted in the world for its pany. An Indian company that are well priced and won’t um Calvet Reserve with 80% exceptional quality of wines. whose three shareholders — burn a hole in your pocket.

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 7 WINE QUIZ Five easy questions to test A Taste of France in Mumbai your wine knowledge.

1. What was Napoleon’s favourite wine? he elegant doors of the heritage village in Bordeaux a. Gevrey- Chambertin TGolconda Ballroom producing rich red wines – is b. Amorne della Valpolicella c. Patrimonio at the Trident Hotel at BKC a certified organic producer, Mumbai were thrown open belonging to the most recent 2. What is vin orange (orange wine)? to wine aficionados for a and smallest Bordeaux a. Wine flavoured with orange tasting of French wines at a appellation, Francs Cotes de peels b. A white wine reception organised jointly by Bordeaux. Château Franc c. A rosé wine the Consulate of France with Cardinal 2016 with 70% 3. Which champagne was Business France & Tastin’ Merlot, stood out with a lot served to guests at the 1981 France. of gamey, meaty, farmyard wedding of Prince Charles and Lady Diana? Sonia Barbry, Consul characters. The palate was soft a. Veuve Clicquot b. Bollinger General of France in her brief and rounded, comparatively c. Moët et Chandon speech welcomed the French much softer tannins than

4. Where is the highest delegation representing three the Boissonneau Collection vineyard located? different regions in France from the same region. The a. In Chile b. In Argentina – Champagne, Cahors in white wine was a blend of c. In Nepal southwest France and St Sauvignon, Semillon and 5. Which wine is popular for Emilion in Bordeaux. Muscadelle with green its fuel like aroma? Leopoldine Champagne, Nicolas Boissonneau, Ceo of fruits and grassy characters a. High quality German Vignobles Boissonneau Riesling with its distinctive style, set the dominant. Here too, the b. Austrian Grüner Veltliner ball rolling with Exaltation de Cana. Historically, these alcohol was slightly out of

c. British wine

5. High quality German Riesling. German quality High 5. Blanc de Blancs 2013, made wines were known as ‘black balance.

the Andes mountains. mountains. Andes the planted at an altitude of 10,000 ft in in ft 10,000 of altitude an at planted from 100% Chardonnay, wines’ due to their very high Vignobles Boissonneau

4. In Argentina. Altura Maxima is is Maxima Altura Argentina. In 4. redolent with brioche and tannic content and longevity. have been producing wines

for Pol Roger. Pol for

3. Bollinger. Kate and William opted opted William and Kate Bollinger. 3. biscuit notes followed by La Fiancée 2018 was an for 180 years and became a

contact like a red wine. red a like contact

from a white grape vinified with skin skin with vinified grape white a from green apple and lemon. Dry unusual rosé, made from certified organic winery in

2. A white wine. Orange wine comes comes wine Orange wine. white A 2. bottle of it at each meal. each at it of bottle and creamy on the palate, 100% Malbec. The skin is in 2010. The high humidity

de Nuits. It is said that he drank half a a half drank he that said is It Nuits. de possibly because of extended contact with the juice for only in Bordeaux results in

This is from the Côte Côte the from is wine Burgundy This 1. Gevrey- Chambertin Gevrey- 1. contact with lees. Première one hour to extract colour. fungal infections, and it

Answers Fois Brut 2013 came next It has a fresh, fruity, lively is a challenging task to in which the nose and palate nose although the alcohol is produce organic wines here. were dominated by green and slightly out of balance on the CEO Nicolas Boissonneau citrus fruit resulting in a lean, palate. The reds, dominated mentioned they lost a light and refreshing wine. by Malbec were approachable whopping 70% of their crop The Adoration Rosé that with soft tannins, unlike what in the 2018 . Evidently, followed was 60% Meunier is usually seen in the wines being committed to organic with notes of raspberry, from Cahors, which are big, farming comes with its own

Although no longer in general use, strawberry and grapefruit. bulky and robust. costs and risks! the tastevin cup, in solid silver or From the Cahors region in The next winery, Nicolas brought a total of silverplate, has a raised design so that the appearance and colour southwestern France where Château Franc Cardinal eight wines for us to taste. of the wines, especially the reds, the black grape Malbec is just 20 minutes away from The two whites were dry, fresh can be appreciated. native, we tasted Les Roques St Emilion – a medieval, and well balanced. One was

8 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 DINING OUT a 50-50 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, and Hereby hangs a foxy tale therefore light and refreshing, while the other included ox in the Field is the 10% Muscadelle which gave Fstory of a clever Fox in the wine a more aromatic Whitefield, . The nose. The palate was a notch Fox can be visited in his den heavier with mellow acidity. spread over four floors where Among the six reds, two you will be nourished with that really stood out were food, crafty brews and foxy Château de La Vieille Tour concept cocktails. That’s all 2016 Bordeaux Supérieur, a the details we are going to blend of 50% Merlot, 30% give you. In short, it’s a new Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% watering hole worth a visit. , 5% Malbec You first have to ‘Enter the with red and black fruit, spice, Fox’, visit the ‘Fox in his and floral notes on the nose. Den’, be entertained by ‘Fox Fox in the Field restaurant interior The wine had such a complex on Stage’ and when you’ve And all shall be revealed! His den opens at 12 noon nose and generous palate, had enough, ‘Chase Fox and To book a spot, call the at Forum Shantiniketan, it was hard to believe that it the Moon’ to the terrace. Fox on: +91 80 2501 8119. Whitefield, Bangalore was completely unoaked but aged in steel tanks for a year and another year in bottle, Hallelujah – Mouton Rothschild’s before release and sells in France for a mere €5.50. The newest art label next wine that caught my eye Left: Philippe Sereys was the Château de la Vieille de Rothschild, Camille Sereys de Rothschild and Tour Réserve Tradition 2016 Julien de Beaumarchais Bordeaux Supérieur. A 50-50 de Rothschild, owners of Château Mouton Rothschild blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Priced at €7.50 in objects, shapes and words France, it was easily one of from everyday life to create my favourites. The selection poetry – from the joyful to of wines presented by the the startling – marked by her French delegation showcased very year since 1945, a feminism. Her label titled different and wine Efamous artist has been “Hallelujah” combines milk styles. French tradition is given complete freedom to and wine, which are often to pair wines with food create an original label for associated together in the and these wines would pair the new vintage. This year the Bible. The 2017 wines are admirably with a variety of owners of Château Mouton rich, with an attractive tannic cuisines, whether a French Rothschild commissioned structure, full bodied and confit de canard, an Italian the French artist Annette pleasantly fresh. A Bordeaux prawn ravioli or a delicious Messager for the 2017 label. First Growth château, Mouton tandoori from closer home. Known around the world for Rothschild has 84 hectares of — Sovna Puri her creativity, Messager uses vines at Pauillac in the Médoc.

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 9 WINEPRIMER How to Understand Wine Names

With varietals, you know what you’re for quality and taste upheld by regional getting: if you’re buying a Pinot Noir, wine officials. A place name on a you know it contains Pinot Noir grapes. European wine therefore represents both high quality and the type of grapes Sole Grapes and Principal Grapes used to make that wine. A Burgundy, If a wine is made from just one for example, must be made from Pinot grape, it’s named after that sole grape. Noir grapes. But some varietal wines are blends of a few different grapes. In blends, the Other Wine Names varietal is named after its principal •Proprietary names In recent years grape – the grape that makes up the the number of wines with fancy, largest part of the blend – as long as meaningless names like “Opus” or that grape exceeds a certain percentage “Phantom” has increased. Usually, of the entire wine. The rules for wines are given these names when their naming a wine after a principal grape specific blends of grapes are ineligible What’s differ slightly by region. In California, for varietal names. Though wines with in a a varietal must contain at least 75% proprietary names may seem gimmicky, name? of the grape for which it’s named. some actually are high quality. In Oregon, the requirement is 90%. •Generic names In the early years of If a wine contains no one grape that winemaking in the United States and exceeds the necessary percentage, then Canada, winemakers often named their the wine can’t be named after a grape. wines after famous foreign wines such But there’s no rule forcing a wine as Burgundy and Chablis even if their t can be hard to figure out what company to tell you whether a varietal wines tasted nothing like Burgundy Iexactly you’re buying or ordering is made from just one grape or a blend. or Chablis. Even today, the US and based solely on the name of a wine. So when you’re drinking your next Canadian governments allow wine For instance, you might not expect Pinot Noir, it may be only 75% Pinot, companies to use generic names that that a Burgundy and a Pinot Noir not 100%. This isn’t necessarily a bad have no connection to the taste or quality would be made from the same grape. thing: varietal blends can be better of the wine. The most common generic But in fact they are – the Pinot Noir than the 100% “pure” varietals that go names used in the United States and grape. This confusion exists because by the same name. Canada are Burgundy, Chianti, Chablis, European wines are named according Champagne, Sherry, Port, Rhine, and to different rules from those used for Europe Wines Named For Places Sauterne. If you’re buying one of these wines made anywhere else. The best European wines are named wines, check where it’s made – it’s the after the place where they’re made real thing only if it’s from Europe. New World Wines Named For Grapes rather than the grapes from which •Brand names The brand name Most of the wines grown in the United they’re made. Wine has been made in identifies the company that makes States, South America, and Australia Europe for so long that winemakers a particular wine. Most wine labels are varietals, which means that they’re now know where each grape grows best. contain both a wine name and a brand named after the variety of grape they This knowledge has been codified into name. If you come across a wine that contain. Varietal wine naming makes law: in order for a wine to be named has only a brand name, beware: these sense, since the greatest determining after a place, that wine must be made are usually low-quality European wines factor of a wine’s characteristics is the from the grapes that grow best in that that failed to win the right to use a type of grape from which it’s made. place and must meet rigorous standards place name. Inc. and Noble 2008 Barnes Wine Copyright Credit: SI’s Archives. From

10 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 WINECLINIC Your Questions Answered

What is resveratrol? wines are made. Well-known Resveratrol is a polyphenolic varieties of vinifera compound with antioxidant are the familiar Cabernet properties that is produced Sauvignon and Chardonnay in the skins of grapes in as well as such esoteric and response to fungus attacks worthy varietals as Chasselas, and stress. Because red thought to be the oldest wines are fermented in known grape still in use today contact with the skins, they and Torrontes, a delicate acquire more resveratrol white that is a specialty of than white wines and carry northern Argentina. more potential antioxidant benefits than white wines What is the significance of or other alcoholic beverages. “vintage”? Other sources of resveratrol Vintage is the year in which in food include blueberries, the grapes are harvested. raspberries, mulberries, and Every year is a vintage, but peanuts. in some years the weather conditions are better than Are all wines meant to be in others. Better weather aged? usually means a better Not at all. More than 90% harvest with a higher rating of all the wines produced for that particular vintage in the world are meant to or year. It also means the be drunk within one year. chance of a better wine that Wines change with age. will age well. Some for the better but most for the worse. Less than one I like dry wines. How do I per cent of the world’s wines know which wines are dry? should be aged for more than Most table wines are dry, ie, five years. with little or no sugar. During fermentation, yeast converts Can you explain the term grape sugars into alcohol. If ? all, or nearly all, of the sugar Vitis vinifera is the European converts, with less than 10 species of grapevine which grams of residual sugar per produce grapes grown litre remaining, the wine is around the world from which considered ‘dry’. 99 per cent of the world’s — Reva K. Singh

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 11 RAGHUBAHADUR Columnist Raghu Bahadur is back – to the delight of his followers – after a brief break, casting a critical eye on the Indian wine scene

Has Indian wine arrived?

mean, ‘arrived’ as in “Has Indian malt Luckily, their enthusiasm was matched by whisky arrived?”, “Have Indian tech other incipient wine-smitten entrepreneurs, who start-ups arrived?” or “Have Indian angel decided to follow the same path, although on a Iinvestors arrived?”. Yes, doubtless they all smaller scale. Some of them were professional have, except that in so far as wine is concerned, people who, while pursuing successful careers the yes is a little ‘iffy’. abroad, had developed an abiding love for wine, What is remarkable about Indian wine’s attended winemaking courses, then packed up achievement is the speed at which it has travelled their bags and returned home to make wine. – not a timid crawl but a speedy scramble over They were accustomed to maintaining high uncertain terrain – starting virtually from scratch. standards, and put this trait to admirable use as To be sure, prior to the 1990s, there did exist an rookie winemakers. Indian wine industry of sorts, comprising a few This then was India’s wine scene at the turn wines of sorts, which catered to an unwitting of the century or thereabouts – a half-dozen clientele of sorts. After that a tsunami swept the or so winemakers driven by a passion for scene, signalling the advent of the wine industry wine, exercising rigorous quality control and as we know it today. putting some good, quality Indian wine on the So, who, and what brought about the revival consumer’s table. The group that welcomed this of Indian wine? The credit goes mostly to the ‘arrival’ consisted mainly of baby boomers and two principal producers – then and now – the early, and hence older, Gen X. Ironically, and continues to be for their foresight and for this group initially turned up their noses at putting their money where their palate was. They Indian wine. But, in their defence, let it be said acquired large tracts of land in the vine growing that there is a good chance they were turned regions of Nashik and Bengaluru, imported wine off Indian wine by their exposure to its earlier saplings from old-world vineyards, employed inferior avatar, and still carried the scars. foreign experts, and, with the impetus of their However, they began drinking it soon enough, love for wine, got down to the serious business though with an outward show of reluctance, of production. It was therefore no surprise that, accompanied with comments like “not bad for for the first time, Indian wine picked up from the an Indian wine”. Thankfully, it did not take store shelf could be drunk in the comfort of one’s long for the “not bad” to be replaced by “pretty home, and confidently offered to guests. good”. In their estimation Indian wine had

12 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 ‘arrived’. These are the stalwarts who have contribution as consumers is now somewhat helped Indian wine receive the ungrudging limited – maybe a case or two per year – but their acceptance of, yes, Indians themselves. oral support afforded a certain status to wine during a critical period. They won’t be around he real pioneers in the arrival of wine much longer but the distinctive aura they created are of course the wine producers around everything vinous will ensure that there Tthemselves, as well as the unsung is no dearth of wine lovers in the country. heroes of the baby boomers and GenX, who The print media in India has made its own have selflessly been actually drinking and noteworthy contribution to the cause of wine. promoting Indian wine, with nary a word of The daily newspapers’ social pages keep their complaint. This altruistic duty is being carried page three devotees well informed about the forward honourably by GenY, otherwise known myriad benefits of wine and, since it has gained as millennials, and older members of GenZ. So considerable ground, also about the etiquette it is, that there now exists a partnership between associated with it as a party drink. As for serious the wine producers and generations X, Y and writing there is at present only one magazine – Z, working for the benefit of each other – the Sommelier India. In a relatively short period it has former keeps the latter hydrated, and the latter attained a matchless standard comparable to returns the compliment by keeping the former the best of foreign publications. With excellent in a state of liquidity. international and Indian writers, it has received Let us raise Two other groups merit inclusion as worthy accolades from far and near. Their interns go on a toast to the contributors to the cause of wine. First, let us to become food and wine critics: one of them unheralded raise a toast to the unheralded contribution of is currently being trained at a wine institute women who do need a separate mention.They in Bordeaux. And now, even as I write, comes contribution are generally averse to hard but had the the news that Reva K Singh, SI’s founder and of women social need to have a drink in hand to last them editor-in-chief has achieved the rare distinction who, although through the course of an evening, which had of being selected as a member of Confrérie usually been met with a glass of juice or aerated des Chevaliers du Tastevin. A well-deserved automatically drink. As social mores evolved this practice recognition for SI. a part of the changed for the better, with wine taking the alphabetic place of the soft drink. Women are good judges would have wrapped up my piece with this generations of wine, using their sensitive palates and keen happy news, but the ‘iffiness’ mentioned olfactory sense to good effect. They have infused Iat the start remains to be addressed. The X, Y and Z, the great Indian party circuit with fresh life by argument is that, at a spoonful per person need a separate cheerfully adopting wine as their preferred social per annum, the consumption of wine in mention drink, and by acting as catalysts in initiating the India is abysmally low, ranking behind even uncommitted to the joys of wine. Women who Afghanistan, and militates against the ‘arrival’ like drinking wine with close friends and have tag. In answer let us just say that the number of formed exclusive women only groups for this wine drinkers as a proportion of the population purpose. They meet regularly at each other’s is itself abysmally low, and will remain so for a houses for a few – and then a few more – glasses long time to come. To bring the consumption of wine in convivial company. up to just the one-and-a-half spoonful level The second group that deserves a toast is – still abysmally low – would necessitate an the pre-baby boomers. They first suffered increase in production of 15 million litres. So the onslaughts of inferior Indian wine and let us simply ascribe this argument to statistical later, savouring the progressive stages of the tyranny and ignore it, recalling Lord Disraeli’s ‘arrived’ wine, they gave their unequivocal comment, “There are three kinds of lies; lies, approval. Getting a little long in the tooth, their damned lies and statistics.” v

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 13 JANCISROBINSON ‘You could argue that currently Champagne is undergoing a greater revolution than any other wine region’

Changing trends in Champagne

t seems only moments ago that wine formula of milking the vines to produce large producers the world over routinely, volumes of under-ripe grapes and then beefing and enviously, cited Champagne up both base wine and the finished wine Ias the model of a commercially with added sugar seems to be in retreat, and successful wine. nowadays champagne is much more likely to But things have changed. Champagne sales have been made from grapes that absorbed real have been slowing. Vast numbers of wine character from their time on the vine. drinkers are just as happy with Prosecco. In The sea change in is the change my own country, English is most obvious to a visitor who has not been now regarded as just as socially acceptable as to the region for a few years. In the old days champagne. there wasn’t a living thing between the rows of And perhaps the greatest changes have been tired vines – just heaps of thinly-spread refuse A major in the vineyards and cellars of the Champagne from Paris. It was always jarring to see scraps change that region. You could argue that currently of bright blue plastic in the vineyards. Today has taken place Champagne is undergoing a greater revolution we are seeing the fruits of a region-wide policy remarkably than any other wine region. The most obvious to encourage much more sustainable ways change is in the climate. Virtually all wine of growing vines (more earthworms!), with quickly is the regions are experiencing more and more cover crops, benign weeds, and ever-increasing veneration hot summers, but this matters particularly numbers of growers adopting organic, and of growers as in Champagne where high acids have been even biodynamic practices – not always an easy treasured in the base wines to be made fizzy. path in such a relatively damp climate. opposed to the Average acid levels have been falling, and I Another major change that has taken place big houses think you can taste in many that remarkably quickly is the organisation and the grapes were riper than in the past. even veneration of growers as opposed to the This is not necessarily a bad thing. The old big houses. The region has always been divided

14 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Photo: i ai

politico-economically between the 16,000 farmers who grow the grapes and those who make the wine. At one time those were two very distinct activities but the line has become blurred, especially as the houses increasingly acquire vineyards. Thousands of Champagne’s vine growers sell all the grapes they grow to a house and/or one of the co-ops that are so important in Champagne (Krug buys from several of them). But in recent years much of the media noise about champagne has been focused on the best examples of growers who make their own champagne. There is no shortage of very ordinary grower champagne, but the best winemaking growers (récoltant-manipulants) have sensibly banded together to form groups who show their latest wares in the region every April, attracting trade and press from around the world. Because such Sparkling wine is growers tend to give maximum information on that add complexity to the blends of more now regarded just as their back labels, the difference between each venerable producers. But what they can offer, socially acceptable as year’s cuvées is very clear, so it is screamingly which many of the big houses do not, is Champagne obvious that they are showing something new -specific wines. Although houses such as every year – something for journalists to write Philipponnat, Billecart-Salmon and Krug offer about and importers to rave about. Compare single-vineyard champagnes as part of their and contrast with the non vintage blends that range, growers are much more likely to offer comprise over 80% of a typical champagne wines that are fashioned by one small area in house’s output. What is there to report? Champagne – because that’s where their vines When they first burst on the international are. (The big houses buy in grapes from all over wine scene, the best grower champagnes the region.) Many a grower champagne back seemed great bargains, but prices have been label will tell you exactly where the grapes were catching up with their reputations and this, grown, as well as when. alas, is no longer the case. Another trend also flies in the face of the traditional champagne mantra that blending ne current, very noticeable trend is is all. We’re seeing more and more varietal for the younger generation to inherit champagnes, those made from a single grape Othe family vineyards and decide to variety. Of course we have long had many make wine for the first time. This is inevitably all-Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs to choose capital-intensive – not just because of all the from, but now champagnes made from Pinot equipment and cellar space needed but because Meunier are far from uncommon, or ones champagne has to be aged much longer before labelled Pinot Noir, or even champagnes made release than most still wines. Because of this, from the region’s more obscure grapes such as many of them continue to sell some grapes to Arbane and Petit Meslier. Novelties rather than finance their winemaking. great wines, perhaps, but signs of real evolution When they launch their new label they and experimentation in a region that used to won’t have the stocks of older reserve wines be so complacently static.

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 15 of deliberately extending their ageing period. The most obvious change perhaps has been the reduction in dosage, the mix of wine and sugar with which bottles are topped up immediately after the frozen sediment has been expelled from the upended bottles. (The introduction of computerised, mechanical riddling of the sediment on to the cork has made hand riddling almost extinct in the Champagne region, although neighbours Billecart-Salmon and Philipponnat continue the tradition – perhaps they employ the same strong-wristed people?) A dosage as high as 12g/l used to be routine, especially in an era when grapes struggled to reach what was then the legal minimum potential alcohol of 7% (it’s 9% today). Today even big, commercial houses may employ a dosage of only about 7g/l, thanks to those Champagne is an Just as many still wine producers are moving riper grapes. And then there is an unavoidable easy wine to pair with light foods away from oak, the Champenois are head over fashion, particularly among certain growers, for heels in love with it, producers using increasing champagnes with an even lower, or no, dosage. proportions of oak barrels for ageing the base Zero Dosage is regarded by some as a badge of wines, typically large and well-used. And, honour, but I must say that I find some of the yes, I have seen fashionable concrete eggs in resulting wines just too austere for comfort, Champagne too. even if age can compensate for a low dosage. But one benign effect of increasingly here used to be a doctrinal difference ripe grapes is the increase of interest in between houses that suppressed the producing still Coteaux Champenois. During Tmalolactic conversion of harsh acids a concentrated tour of the region last June into softer ones and the rest. But now, with I was shown several very respectable still Over recent acidity at a premium, I would guess that the Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. I also noted the years I have malo is less routinely sought even by those in rehabilitation of rosé champagne – no longer noticed the second camp. regarded as a commercially useful afterthought. champagne Over recent years I have noticed champagne And then there is the very welcome increase becoming less fizzy, with many producers in the number of champagne producers becoming less preferring a gentle, persistent mousse to an prepared to share information about what’s fizzy, with aggressive one. To achieve this, some houses in the bottle – whether via small print on the many producers and growers are adding rather less sugar with back label, a number or a QR code – with their the yeast that invokes the second fermentation customers. preferring in bottle. It also seems to me that the average All of this adds up to the fact that, overall, a gentle, length of time wines are aged on the lees of champagne is better quality than it has ever persistent that fermentation has been increasing. This been. v mousse to an would be a natural result of slowing sales, of Jancis Robinson’s latest book, co-authored with course, but I hear more and more producers, Hugh Johnson, is the eighth edition of The World aggressive one particularly houses that can afford it, boasting Atlas of Wine published in October 2019

16 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 THE ART OF WINE. DOWN TO EARTH.

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Soli ia illi : COLUMN Always read the wine print! Steven Spurrier describes his plans for Academie du Vin Library, a new imprint for lovers of fine writing and fine wine

ho would have thought that a lunch his close friend and erstwhile publisher, Simon with two of my old friends Hugh McMurtrie, whom I had got to know well when WJohnson and Ben Howkins in the he was managing the ill-fated Wine Society of early summer of 2018 would have blossomed into India on behalf of our partners, Laithwaites. A The Academie du Vin Library? A new venture meeting in September ended with an agreement to that is determined to bring back and support the go ahead and it was up to me to choose our first “literature” of wine, which between April 30 and book. With agreement from all sides, this was to be November 25, 2019 has seen the publication of a Commemorative Edition of Michael Broadbent’s no fewer than four books. seminal “Wine Tasting”, which for me was where it Over that lunch I was bemoaning the fact all began. I have always said that the only difference that books today are either densely researched between drinking and tasting wine is ‘paying reference books (and if they are not researched The books attention’ and this is what Michael and his book they are not worth reading) or “What to Buy” that taught taught me to do. Wines will give up their secrets if books full of punchy tasting notes and high you listen to what they are saying. Hugh Johnson rankings. Neither type was for me, for the books me about wine defines a fine wine as “a wine worth talking about” that taught me about wine in the 1960s were as in the 1960s and this is where our books come in, by telling the much about places and people as they were about were as much stories behind the labels. Forget about ‘value for the wines themselves, and those were the stories about places money’; think rather ‘value for pleasure’. that stuck in my mind. “What is to be done?” I Following the launch of Michael’s book just asked, to which Hugh Johnson replied, “You and people two weeks before his 92nd birthday, we launched should recreate it yourself.” as they were “Ten Great Wine Families”, Fiona Thienpont This took me back to 1987 when, seeing the about the wines MW’s superbly written and illustrated inside chalk-based fields on the farm my wife had just story of the best that Europe has to offer. bought in Dorset, I put a couple of little blocks themselves In July, Ben Howkin’s “Sherry, Maligned, in my pocket to take to Paris where I was still Misunderstood, Magnificent” was launched managing the Academie du Vin wine school, in Jerez de la Frontera and in London in early to show to Michel Bettane, my top professor October. And finally “In Vino Veritas”, our to-be and now since many years the top wine critic annual compendium on the best of wine writing in France. “Where do you think these are from the past and the present, was launnched in from?” “Champagne, of course”. “No, from November. This, as we freely admit, is an admiring south Dorset.” “In that case you should plant a copy of “The Compleat Imbiber”, a wonderfully vineyard.” Twenty-two years later the first vines erudite and eccentric series of books from the for Bride Valley Vineyard began to take root. world of wine compiled under the editorship For the Academie du Vin Library things of the great Cyril Ray, books which were every moved much faster. Hugh declared he would wine lover’s must-have Christmas present. From be an “uncle” to the project and would contact just a hopeful suggestion that we might try to do

18 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 that’s why the team will be putting their heads together during the coming months to see in what ways we can broaden the scope of what we offer to include not just books, but more extensive online content, international themed tastings and wine-inspired travel opportunities. It also gives me great pleasure to be assisting my former Decanter magazine colleague, Christelle Guibert, as she breathes new life into the International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC), the world’s oldest, which this year (along with the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET)) celebrates its 50th birthday. With everything else going on, it’s all too easy to forget that without the wine producers themselves we wouldn’t have any wines to write about – and that without an opportunity to shine, to be talked about, they might be most unjustly ignored.

always like to think of our books being perused with a bottle of wine close at hand Steven Spurrier pictured something similar, the team threw itself into holding up a copy of Iand a good example of this connection was “In Vino Veritas”, at the action and we did it, a wonderful end to the the launch of “In Vino Veritas” at 67 Pall Mall. launch of the book at year and promise for the future. 67 Pall Mall, London We could have done this over a glass or two of And for 2020 there are six more books in the bubbles (from Bride Valley Vineyard, of course) pipeline, commencing with “Château Musar” but I preferred to offer a Master Class of six to coincide with this legendary Lebanon estate’s wines from my Dorset cellar, all from the superb 90th anniversary, “A Viking in the Vineyards” the 2005 vintage. Here they are: memoirs of much-travelled Danish winemaker • Chablis Grand Cru Valmur Domaine Peter Vinding-Diers and “On Bordeaux”, our Christian Moreau. take on the history and future of the world’s • Corton Grand Cru Bressandes Domaine most famous red wine. Our basic aim is to create Prince Florent de Merode. a true library, so that if someone discovers us • Domaine de Chevalier Grand Cru Classé de in a year or two’s time they will find a dozen or . more very varied books to choose from, which we • Cornas Vieilles Vignes Domaine Alain Voge. intend to keep in print. • Vinedo Chadwick Maipo Valley Chile. Since the 1960s when I was learning from • Niederhauser Herrmannsschule Riesling books with evocative titles – “The Wayward Spatlese Weingut Donnhof. Tendrils of the Vine”, “Stay me with Flagons” All six had lain in my cellar in three cases – the wine world has grown unbelievably more since their purchase “en primeur” and this complex and multi-faceted. These days, I venture was the first time I had tasted them. They were to suggest, it is not so much pure knowledge that superb and since wine is all about the pleasure people are looking for in wine writing, but words of sharing, I also offered my last two bottles of to embellish the experience of encountering, Dow’s 1975 Vintage Port, which wrapped up the of tasting, of drinking and remembering. And evening with pleasurable warmth. v

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 19 SHOBANARAYAN shares a memorable meal with her daughter at Manresa, a jewel of a restaurant in Los Gatos Celebrating at Manresa California wine and food

few months ago, my daughter, Domaine de la Romanée Conti, which retail Ranjini, fractured her ankle and upwards of $3000. Big bang wines apart, there Arequired surgery. She works in the are smaller, thoughtfully produced California Bay Area. When I asked her where we should wines by the glass, the half-bottle or the bottle. go for a dinner to celebrate her recovery, she I particularly enjoyed learning about the Santa didn’t hesitate. Manresa of course, a jewel Cruz area vineyards including Ridge (which of a restaurant in Los Gatos that won three has been written about in the New Yorker) and Michelin stars in 2015. also smaller producers like Thomas Fogarty, Chef-Owner David Kinch mixes Japanese, and Varner, which I later visited for well-priced Manresa’s 50- French and Catalan influences in his cuisine Pinot Noirs. page wine list with balance, aplomb and restraint. The Like Blue Hill restaurant in upstate New covers all tastes late great TV show host, Anthony Bourdain York, Manresa too espouses a sustainable farm- has called Kinch’s cooking “wildly creative to-table approach and has partnerships with (and pockets) … beautifully presented and surprisingly several local producers. This is because Chef including minimalist – very, very tasty.” Manresa Kinch likes, more than anything, ingredients several vintages routinely gets named among the top 100 wine- with provenance. This applies to wines as well of Domaine de restaurants in the US. Last year, it was only as foods. “I like and appreciate all wines that one of two restaurants in Northern California exhibit a sense of where they are from and are la Romanée named in Wine Spectator’s “9 wine restaurants made by someone with passion and a respect Conti, which worth the hype.” The other was Quince in San for details,” he says. retail upwards Francisco. As for pairing his food with wines, Kinch Its 50-page wine-list covers all tastes prefers an unfussy approach. “Wine pairing of $3000 (and pockets) including several vintages of should work (as both wine and food do

20 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Photo credit: David Spiegelman Wagstaff Photo credit: Chris Schmauch

David Kinch, right, chef-owner of the popular Michelin-starred restauarnt, Manresa, serves exquisite Californian cuisine that combines Japanese, French and Catalan influences

separately) with a sense of harmony and expensive but on par with other fine dining balance. I tend to lean towards the classics restaurants in the US. and then search for nuance but in general, I might as well start with the highlight of the especially in a long tasting-menu, I try not to dinner. It happened three courses in, when have too much going on. It is confusing and Chef Kinch appeared like a genie beside our Sharing wine gets in the way of enjoyment.” table, bearing a closed dish. He opened it with information Ranjini and I arrived for dinner and were a flourish and said, “Smell this.” Inside was a ushered in by wine director and Master white-on-white combination of grilled cabbage, with diners Sommelier, Jim Rollston. Sharing wine koshihikari rice and matsutake mushrooms. without information with diners without making them Simple, sublime with haunting flavours, making them feel like students is an art and Rollston has reminiscent of an Onsen (Hot Spring Bath) at feel like perfected this. Mount Fuji, the dish paired spectacularly well “When pairing food with wine, vegetarian with a 2014 Clos de la Chapelle Volnay with its students is or otherwise, I like to consider the weight of woody, earthy tones matching the mushrooms. an art and the dish as well as the cooking techniques, and Another terrific wine-pairing was a 2017 Rollston has generally look to pair lighter wines with more Gruner Veltliner (a favourite of mine for its delicate foods whose preparation emphasizes slightly bitter taste) with an artichoke and perfected this that delicacy, and stronger wines for weightier piccolo faro (an “ancient grain” derived from foods with more intensely flavoured cooking ), cooked and presented perfectly so methods,” he says. that the vegetal taste complimented the herbal Both of us had opted for a vegetarian tasting character of the wine. with paired wines priced at $295 for the food Every Michelin-starred restaurant worth its salt and $235 for the wine per person, which is has mastered the art of presentation. For me, some

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 21 Photo credit: Marc Fiorito Photo credit: Wagstaff - Kelly Bylsma

“Into the Vegetable Garden”, a perfect vegetarian dish combining berries, greens, and edible flowers in a translucent dressing standouts include Carme Ruscalleda’s tasting menu in Barcelona, Grant Achatz’s Alinea in Chicago and Gagan Anand’s Bangkok menu. However, the most beautiful dish I have ever seen presented has got to Wine Director be, “Into the Vegetable Garden,” where a perfect was neither. Instead, flavours were layered and Jim Rollston combination of berries, greens, edible flowers and orchestrated with wine. Melons and preserved figs selects a translucent dressing all offer an “unbearable with a crisp 2016 Billaud-Simon Chablis had me his wines carefully from lightness of being,” that is ineffable. asking for more. The two reds included a 2002 an extensive The pairing though was brave: a locally brewed Château Montelena, which I had tasted before collection and surprises diners rustic ale that was as refreshing as Champagne. at home, but oh, how great it tasted in that Zalto with his wine Says Kinch, “A good rule of thumb for me is stemware that they have. Rollston, whose personal pairings complex wines match well with simpler, straight taste runs to German , Northern Rhône forward foods. Complex dishes deserve simpler Syrah, and all types of red wine from Piemonte, wines. The reason? You want the intangibles to gave us a 2016 Côte-Rôtie with a sculpturally shine through and stand on their own. In a sense, presented dish of maitake, carrots, peach and to enhance.” pistachio – a seemingly incongruous combination Most mediocre American restaurants resort that blends seamlessly. to two things when doing a wine pairing for a The service staff at Manresa has perfected the vegetarian: they add cheese with a heavy hand art of materialization. They manifest when needed and use Portobello mushrooms to provide the and disappear like a sigh. No one is better at this chargrilled flavour of a steak. At Manresa there than the restaurant’s general manager, Jenny Yun, who appeared when we were fumbling, to soothe Rollston paired a Côte-Rôtie and answer. Running a restaurant enterprise like with a dish of maitake, carrots, this is a formidable task, and Yun performs it with peach and pistachio – a seemingly quiet elegance. More than anything, my daughter and I were incongruous combination that delighted to share a fantastic meal in each other’s blends seamlessly company. That we did so in Manresa was a gift. v

22 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA

N TH MV e are also available digitally INDIA as soon as Sommelier WI GI the print page oussillonRGIG esurgent I IIG as ndian magazine Wine Arrived? RII IDI WI page goes on ospices De eaune RI sale, to read III WI IIG IR page online on aat Parr ID page your iPad, atest iPhone or edition page Android available CALNA WAN AND WN A device. N INDIA’S PREMIER WINE MAGAZINE. CONTROLLED CIRCULATION Caroline Frey AWOMAN AND HER WINE ESTATES

Focused and commited, Caroline Frey’s approach to winemaking has won her plaudits across some of France’s most important wine regions – Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Rhône Valley. Rahoul B Singh reports

24 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Caroline Frey

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 25 aroline Frey straddles the worlds Her commitment to innovation occurred of fine wine and viticulture with in other areas as well. In 2004 Frey built equal ease. With vineyards in a winery that used two inox arms to fill CBordeaux, Burgundy, the Rhône vats with grape berries by gravity. Later in Valley and a small private vineyard in the 2010, an optical sorter was invested in for Swiss region of Fully, all stand as a testament the grapes of Madelmoiselle L, the vineyard to her versatility as a winemaker. Although parcel in Cussac, Haut-Médoc while she trained formally at the University of the vineyards of Château La Lagune and Bordeaux with the late Denis Dubourdieu, Moulin de La Lagune continue to use the who also mentored her through her first traditional method of sorting by hand. two vintages in 2002 and 2003, it was her The re-introduction of the 19th century mother who told Caroline to be particularly practice of blending Cabernet from attentive to her daughter Elise’s first Bordeaux with Syrah from the Rhône instincts and passions, reminding her of Valley to form their wine named, aptly, how her own affinity and passion for nature Caroline views “Evidence” (50% Cabernet Sauvignon as a child shaped not only her career choice from Château La Lagune and 50% Syrah but also her winemaking philosophy. terroir as a from Domaine de Thalabert in Crozes- Like her wines, Caroline is a woman of living place, the Hermitage) and “Duo” a blend of Syrah her terroir. She grew up amongst nature, culmination of from Paul Jaboulet’s La Chapelle and rode horses and ran marathons and now the mineral, Cabernet Sauvignon from Château La spends her time in her vineyards, working Lagune, all testify to the dynamism and the soil. In Fully, at a small private parcel plant and pioneering spirit of Caroline. of land near her home, Caroline maintains animal worlds In fact, when asked about being one the vineyard herself – weeding it, pruning coming together among the few – but increasing – women the vines, making the wines and bottling winemakers, Caroline quite rightly reminds them. It helps her stay connected with to nourish us that horse riding is one of the few sports both earth and vine, while simultaneously the vines where men and women compete against understanding firsthand the nuances of each other. While a horse and rider form each process. a pair with mutual understanding of each With this “hands-on” engagement other, the rider must be able to adapt to with the soil, the vine and the process of different horses. So also must a vigneron be winemaking, it comes as no surprise that able to adapt to different parcels of land. Caroline views terroir as a living place, At Château La Lagune in Bordeaux, for the culmination of the mineral, plant example, the gravel and clay in the soil is and animal worlds all coming together to characteristic of what is found in the Haut- nourish the vines. After all, from great Médoc, a combination that gives grace, vines come great wine. Perhaps it is from balance and smoothness to the traditional this that her commitment to both bio- Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, dynamism and organic viticulture stems. Merlot and Petit Verdot. The estate in fact In each of her four wine estates, the tenets has an interesting story that dates back to of bio-dynamism and organic viticulture the 16th century under King Henry the IV, are practised, something that other wine when Dutch engineers reclaimed the land estates in the region are now beginning to by draining the water from the marshes take note of. and the swamps. Then, in the 1700s Baron

26 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Manual harvesting in progress at Château La Lagune, Bordeaux

Above: The Vineum wine bar showcasing some of Caroline Frey’s finest wines at Tain-L’Hermitage. Left: Château Corton C in Burgundy

In horse riding, where men and women compete against each other, the horse and rider form a team but the rider must be able to adapt to different horses. So also must a vigneron adapt to different parcels of land

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 27 Above: Paul Jaboulet La Victor Louis, who coincidentally was also the Chapelle estate, architect for the famed Grand Theatre in overlooking Bordeaux, designed the beautiful, classically the Rhône Valley styled Château La Lagune. Construction Left: Caroline began in 1715 and finished in 1734. Over Frey, the two centuries later the Frey family bought the winemaker estate, with Caroline taking the helm in 2004. Moulin de La Lagune is the second wine produced along with the flagship, Château La Lagune. The vineyards are located in the main parcels around the château, while the Mademoiselle L wine was created in 2004 by Caroline. This vineyard is located in Cussac,

28 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 through the rejuvenation of natural habitat systems. The marsh is recognised by the government as an area of ecological importance and it is through Caroline’s The steep partnership with the Aquitaine LPO (Ligue pour la Protection des Oiseaux or League for the slopes of the Protection of Birds) that these 40 hectares Rhône valley including the Garenne (ie, the natural trees coupled with and scrubs in the grounds of Château La granite, Lagune) fprm – like the vines in the vineyards – a part of a greater living tradition. glacial stone, sand, clay aroline’s keen interest in her northern and alluvial Rhône vineyards have breathed new Clife into the Paul Jaboulet Âiné at deposits closer Tain L’ Hermitage. Jaboulet was originally to the river founded in 1834 by Antoine Jaboulet and make this has over the years produced some worthy appellation wines. However, it’s La Chapelle from this house that has consistently been a favourite amongst with wine connoisseurs. The 1961 vintage, France’s one of the few to have received a 100-point finest rating from Robert Parker is rightly sort after. Irrespective of vintage, La Chapelle is a fine wine and if you can get your hands on a bottle, chances are you won’t regret buying this classic Syrah! The appellation of Hermitage at 136 hectares is tiny especially, for example, if you compare it to Château Lafite Rothschild in Pauillac which as a single estate has 100 Haut-Médoc. As a wine, Château La Lagune is hectares under cultivation! The steep slopes aromatically complex and has elegant textures. of the Rhône valley coupled with granite, Its younger vintages should be decanted for glacial stone, sand, clay and alluvial deposits about two hours to allow the wine to soften closer to the river make this appellation and open up while older vintages require amongst France’s finest. relatively little decanting. The wine is named after a small but The charming château is fortunate in other beautiful chapel that sits in the midst of the ways too. Just beyond the vineyards lies the vineyard. Two papal bulls (issued by Pope Marais, where La Lagune possesses a large Paschal II in 1100 and Pope Callixtus II in marsh of 37 hectares. This parcel of land is 1120) confirm the existence of the structure characteristic of former Médoc landscapes. It Château La from the early 12th century. The knight Lagune is elegant is here that one can see a deep commitment and aromatically Henri Gaspard de Sterimberg returned from towards the protection of the environment complex the crusade against Albigenses in 1224 and

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 29 Château La Lagune was designed by Baron Victor Louis in the 18th century and restored by the Frey family in the 21st century wishing to dedicate the rest of his life to God C and situated on the Corton hill in Côte climbed the hill and prayed at this chapel. He de Beaune, the estate spans seven hectares in spent the rest of his life there as a hermit. Corton – Corton, Charlemange, Meursault, Today, in memory of the legend, Paul Volansß and Pommard. The estate, Jaboulet Aîné produces two renowned crus, immediately recognizable by the castle with its La Chapelle in red (100% Syrah) and Le glazed tilework and relatively small vineyard, Chevalier de Sterimberg in white (70% produces 15 different types of wines. Marsanne and 30% Roussanne). On being asked about her approach In addition to the 80 hectares at Château to winemaking in regions as diverse as La Lagune in the Haut-Médoc and the 110 Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Rhône Valley hectares Domaine Paul Jaboulet Âiné in the in an interview to Decanter magazine in Rhône Valley, the acquisition of Château 2018, Caroline said, “Each region functions de Corton André in 2015 gave Caroline a differently at a human as well as a viticultural presence in yet another of France’s renowned level. You need to be open to learn and adapt. winemaking regions. Later renamed Corton What works in the Rhône doesn’t always work

30 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Château La Lagune can be rented for home and winery stays in the heart of the Haut-Médoc in Bordeaux. A full-time Michelin chef with a cellar full of exceptional wines makes the château a must stop for anyone interested in gastronomy

“Each region functions differently at a human as well as a viticultural level. You need to be open to learn and adapt. What works in the Rhône doesn’t always work in Bordeaux” in Bordeaux. For example, there are 10,000 when she was only 24. She was a young woman ways to do biodynamics and each of these in an otherwise male-dominated profession, regions needs something different. Working relatively inexperienced at the time and not organically in Bordeaux is particularly from Bordeaux. Since then along with her complicated because of the climate but the team, she has produced some outstanding results in the glass make it worthwhile.” wines, rooted in a philosophy that speaks of Frey goes on to clarify, “The climate in a larger dependence on the natural processes Rhône makes it less complicated. There, we of nature than on synthetic chemicals and have been organic since 2006 and biodynamic fertilisers. for six years, since 2016. Burgundy is This approach was recognized by the French somewhere in between the two in terms of government which conferred upon her the challenges for organic – so it’s great to have insignia of Chevalier de l’Ordre National du worked on the other two first.” Mérite on January 19, 2017 – ironically the Caroline was entrusted with the onerous same year that President Trump withdrew task of making wine at Château La Lagune from the Paris climate change agreement! v

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 31 The Hospices de Beaune BUILT ON SALT, RUN ON WINE

very third Sunday in ovember, urundy hosts a charity auction of barrels of youn ines from vineyards oned by the ospices de eaune, a charitable establishment born in a distinctive historical contet of th century urope hen rance almost became part of nland, hen urundy as ruled by a succession of luurylovin and independenceseein dues, hen salt as a oldbriner and ines ere a poerful tool of political seduction ulia SherstyuVisanathan loos bac into the fascinatin history of this uniue institution

32 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 An iconic example of flamboyant Gothic architecture, the Hospices de Beaune with its multicoloured turret roof is the symbol of the Golden Age of Burgundy’s Dukes

uilt between 1443 and 1451 as Hotel-Dieu of Beaune, a hospital for the poor, later grouped with a local leprosarium, an Borphanage and a nursing home to form the Hospices de Beaune, this charitable organisation has been for centuries receiving donations of land, money, artworks and, in the true spirit of Burgundy, vineyards which proved to be the hospital’s most sustainable and profitable inheritance. Totalling 60 hectares (50 for the reds and 10 for the whites), 85% of which are classified as Grands and Premiers Crus, these vineyards, whose average age is 35 years, are tended by 23 handpicked vignerons to produce 50 cuvée, each named after an important donor or benefactor of the Hospices. These batches are mostly a judicious assemblage of grapes from different vineyard plots, making the wines of the Domaine des Hospices unique and original. The wines are sold each year, by private sales in the beginning and at auctions since 1859, to collect money for the charity, which historically has been dedicated to healthcare. In today’s context, it translates into The austere gray facade of the Hospital is purchasing the latest equipment, increasing comfort for patients in supplanted by a burst of red, brown, yellow Beaune’s medical centres and helping children with Williams and Beuren and green glazed tiles of the buildings (top)

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 33 The vineyards of the Domaine des Hospices are mainly located around Beaune due to syndrome, a rare genetic disease. the geographical position of the Hospital, which today also owns parcels on the Côte The Hospices de Beaune sells vins primeurs – wines of the current de Nuit and in the Maconnais year’s harvest, in 228-litre new oak barrels. Its red Grands Crus are auctioned in 456-litre queues (hogsheads). After the sale, Burgundy négociants-éleveurs will mature the wines in their cellars for 12 to 24 months, bottle them and deliver them to the buyers. Before bottling, the wine owners can add their name or that of their company to the label – a perfect way to personalise a family or corporate gift. The capricious weather in spring 2019 reduced the of the The capricious weather Domaine des Hospice by 30%, resulting in 589 barrels sold on 17 in spring reduced the November as compared to 828 barrels auctioned in the previous year. yield of the Domaine However, the scant harvest consisted of impeccably ripe and extremely healthy grapes of good natural acidity to balance the concentration des Hospice by 30%, of fruit, which has reconfirmed the Burgundian mantra that vintages resulting in 589 barrels ending in “9” are exceptional. It was reflected in the 30% increase in sold as compared price per barrel – €21,823 – as compared to the year before.

to 828 barrels the t is impossible to fully understand the nature of the Hospices de previous year Beaune and its wines without delving into the establishment’s I600-year-old history and the events predating its opening on 31 December 1451. In 1395, Philip the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, pronounced Gamay, a grape variety brought from a crusade by the seignior of Gamay, a village near Beaune, to be “a public enemy”. Although of abundant yields and easy to cultivate, Gamay, according to the duke made mediocre wines full of “horrible harshness”, disrupting Burgundy’s reputation among

34 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 wine connoisseurs, who were predominantly foreign sovereigns and popes. Apart from wines, another source of Burgundy’s wealth in the 14th and 15th centuries was the salt of Salins, located in what is today’s French Jura, of which the grand dukes were feudal overlords. “Salins” translates as “salty” and Apart from wines, refers to the natural underwater brine that was pumped up and heated over another source of fire to form salt crystals by the evaporation of water. In 1409, John the Fearless, the son of Philip the Bold, rebuilt the wooden salt factory of Salins. Now in Burgundy’s wealth stone, a very expensive building material, it flaunted the wealth of Burgundy in the 14th and 15th (in addition to becoming more fireproof). centuries was the salt In 1459, the third Duke of the Valois dynasty, Philip the Good, revisited of Salins, located in the problem of Gamay, still occasionally grown. “The Dukes of Burgundy are known as the lords of the best wines in Christendom. We will maintain what is today’s French our reputation,” he wrote in his edict banning Gamay, thus continuing his Jura, of which the grandfather’s quality control policy. The concept of monocépage took hold grand dukes were and is still observed in Burdungy where Premiers and Grands crus are made totally from one grape variety: Pinot Noir for the reds and Chardonnay for feudal overlords the whites. Despite his moniker, Philip the Good is best known for delivering Joan of Arc to the English, eager to annex France to the British crown. Duke Philip constantly changed camps in search of an ally who could help him fulfil Hospices de Beaune wines his aspiration to make his prosperous duchy, which comprised present-day range from great whites Burgundy and the whole of Benelux, an independent state. He, who had the like Meursault and Corton- Charlemagne to a wide variety most glamourous court, the richest private library in Europe and the best of reds like Volnay, Pommard, wines in the world, was unwilling to remain a vassal to his poorer royal relative, Mazis-Chambertin, and Echézeaux

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 35 Philip the Bold, grandfather of Philip the Good, who did not approve of the Gamay grape

The marriage of Philip the Good (right) and of was celebrated with great fanfare and the most extravagant festivities lasting six days

Charles VII, whose kingdom of France was not larger than the size of today’s metropolitan Paris. To outshine European dynasties more ancient than his own which Nicolas Rolin, builder of was founded by his Gamay-disliking grandfather, and to procure a loyal Hotel-Dieu in Beaune brotherhood of knights, Duke Philip created the Order of the Golden Fleece. Its announcement was made during the six-day celebration of Philip’s wedding in Bruges, the richest Burgundian city back then, with streets decked for the occasion in luxurious vermillion fabrics and fountains filled with… wines! This was one of the most extravagant celebrations in the Middle Ages. Such was the wealth, standing and splendour of the Dukes of Burgundy in the 14th and 15th centuries.

owever, for the inhabitants of Beaune and nearby villages, it was a time of great suffering, when the Hundred Years’ War (1337- H1453), plague, drought and marauding bands of soldiers left thousands sick, orphaned, and ruined in this part of Burgundy. Moved by the misery of the common people, Nicolas Rolin, Duke Philip’s right hand and the second richest man in Burgundy, after 40 years of service as a lawmaker and head of government, decided to help those in need by building a Hotel-Dieu or charitable hospital. Rolin was urged and assisted by his pious wife, Guigone de Salins-la-Tour. Cuvée de Guigone celebrates the Born in Jura, to a rich family of Catholic benefactors who donated money, memory of the wealthy and charitable Guigone de Salins-la-Tour who married land and vineyards to hospitals and churches, Guigogne was no stranger to Nicolas Rolin

36 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 A chapel within a richly decorated hospital ward in the main wing allowing bed-ridden patients to participate in the daily Mass. The two rows of beds with scarlet curtains accommodate two patients of both sexes charity. Nor to finances, being as she was a great-grand-daughter of Salins’ very first bank owner, a savvy Lombardian who moved to Jura attracted by business opportunities offered by a region rich in forests, wines and salt, on which he made a fortune. Guigone’s father, the noble knight Etienne de Salins, managed the household of John the Fearless (the Duke who rebuilt the salt factory in stone), also participating in and even sponsoring his campaigns. So Guigone came from nobility with money, and the money came from salt. Rents from the saltworks in Salins continued to bring a sizable income to the Rolin spouses who used it on the construction of the Hotel-Dieu, a charitable hospital in Beaune. No cost was spared in the building of a self-sufficient charitable establishment with its hospital, kitchen, pharmacy, barns, wine-making equipment and a cooperage. Its main wing, known as the Hall of the Poor, is a richly decorated Featured on every hospital ward incorporating a chapel so that even bedridden patients could Hospices bottle, the three keys from Rolin’s participate in the daily Mass. Guigone was in charge of interior decoration coat of arms and the and patients’ comfort, taking care of bed linen, gowns, bonnets, and tin bottles tower of Salins from Guigone’s, form the used as foot-warmers. couple’s crest In the 1980s, the hospital moved into modern facilities. Today a museum, the Hospice de Beaune is one of France’s most prestigious historic monuments. Every year, about half a million visitors tread its floors that feature the word “Seule” (“the only one”) which stands for “You are my one and only star”, the motto of Nicolas Rolin, and a testament to his love for Guigone de Salins. 

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 37 WINEMUSEUM Jean-Charles Boisset’s homage to Napa Valley

1881 Napa, the wine history museum recently opened by Jean-Charles Boisset in Napa Valley is a must-see, musr-taste destination. Mira Advani Honeycutt reports

alifornia’s Napa Valley is certainly a great The now expansive one room space with a tourist destination, especially for wine mezzanine level is dominated by two dramatic Clovers, yet it has lacked the one thing most centerpieces, a 48-light Baccarat Crystal tourist destinations usually possess — its own Zenith Chandelier and a reproduction of an museum. This is no longer the case. 1895 canvas map of Napa County draped on Jean-Charles Boisset, the flamboyant yet the ceiling. An extensive collection of historic savvy Napa Valley based French vintner, wine relics from Europe and the US, plus continues to expand his interests in the wine original artifacts, with over 700 viticulture world and those interests now include the tools and objects depicting Napa’s history Valley’s first wine museum. through the centuries, add to this museum In 2019, Boisset not only reached a landmark experience. Fashionable booths are appointed birthday, celebrating his 50th with much fanfare on the main floor. Here visitors can savour at Raymond Winery, his 90-acre flagship winery special bottlings of 1881 Napa museum wines in Napa’s Rutherford appellation, he also acquired and take a sensory journey through the valley, the historic Oakville Grocery. This local food tasting Cabernet Sauvignon wines from 12 of institution along the busy St Helena Highway has Napa’s 16 sub-appellations. served as a commercial and community centre Boisset grew up in Burgundy as the son of for nearly 130 years and is listed in the National vintners and grandson of educators. Among Register of Historic Places. But it was the adjacent his family-owned wineries are such esteemed Victorian house on the one-acre property that Burgundy estates as Domaine de la Vougeraie, sparked a brainwave. Why not convert it into a 1881 Napa and Bouchard Ainé et Fils. As the proprietor Napa Valley museum of wine? Within a half year Wine History of the Boisset Collection, he oversees a group Boisset did exactly that. Museum is more of historic and unique wineries and lifestyle 1881 Napa Wine History Museum is more than destinations with unparalleled passion. The a museum, though. It’s a total wine experience than a museum. global portfolio includes over 25 prestigious with a lavish tasting salon. The restored Victorian It’s a total wine wineries in the world’s pre-eminent wine home, originally built in 1874, has retained its experience with regions from Burgundy and the Rhône Valley original facade, but the interior is uber-glam. In in France, to California’s Napa and Sonoma the inimitable Boisset style the decor oozes sparkle, a lavish tasting regions. In 2018, Boisset partnered with glamour and pizazz with refined taste. salon India’s Fratelli Vineyards to launch J’Noon

38 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 The restored Victorian home, originally built in 1874, has retained its original facade, but the interior is uber-glam

Clockwise from top: Exterior of 1881 Napa museum, the first wine history museum to open in Napa Valley housed in a historical, Victorian home. 1881 Napa museum opening with Jean-Charles Boisset at the entrance. Interior of the museum looking down from the mezzanine floor at the Baccarat chandelier

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 39 Above: A prized hand-pump from the Bordeaux estate of Lafitte Rothschild. Right: A display from an extensive collection of antique winery and vineyard tools

wines which are distributed in India as well as at 16 appellations at a cool price of $175. Raymond Winery in California. Alcoves in the interior walls of the museum I caught up on the phone with Boisset a few days display soil samples from Napa appellations after the Museum opened. “I’ve always dreamt accompanied by descriptive panels written by personally of doing an amazing place, a museum noted wine author Karen MacNeil, who also which would be a destination where you can learn helped develop various tasting options. Tastings the history of Napa, its foundation and the founders such as “Majestic Mountains versus Plush Valley” of the villages [appellations] of Napa,” Boisset told allow visitors to explore Napa’s highly diversified me. “We love educating people and promoting wine districts. In addition to the site-specific Cabernet through education. And we realized no museum Sauvignon wines, there’s a selection of specially existed on the in Napa Valley.” crafted 1881 Napa bottlings of Merlot, Sauvignon Boisset mentioned two other museums that Blanc, Chardonnay, Sparkling and Rosé wines. he and his family have launched in the past – Imaginarium in Burgundy’s Nuits-Saint-Georges self-guided tour along the museum’s region and another at his Buena Vista Winery mezzanine floor with a wrap-around in Sonoma which focuses on the foundation of A balcony recounts the history of Napa Sonoma and Napa wine regions. Valley, its founding fathers and early pioneers Boisset calls a visit to the museum a course in along with a robust collection of wine ephemera Napa 101, where visitors can dive into the world including historic winemaking, vineyard, of each of the terroirs. “Now we have a place nursery and cooperage tools that range from a where you can compare and contrast the wines of cooper’s mallet and copper sulfate sprayers to different AVAs and decide what you like.” This is a pomace cutters, stave presses and jabloirs, used two-hour indulgence offering a horizontal tasting to make grooves to fit the top and bottom of of Cabernet Sauvignon wines from 12 of Napa’s barrels. All curated by the Early California

40 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Left: 1881 Napa wines for tasting represent each unique Napa Valley appellation. Above: Descriptive panels of Napa Valley’s appellations grace the walls

Wine Trade Museum featuring local historic We really want to make it an insane, fabulous wine artifacts from the collection of Dean destination, a must-stop place.” Walters and John O’Neill. Boisset also has plans for the adjacent Oakville Boisset has paid personal attention to the Grocery store, one of California’s oldest operating placement of objects. A prized hand-pump stores, that was founded in 1881. It was originally from the Bordeaux estate of Lafitte Rothschild an idyllic spot for bikers, locals and visitors to is placed by the window that faces Opus One stop by for a freshly made sandwich or stock-up Winery across from the museum. “We put it in on fresh eggs and other farm-grown fruits and the direction of Mouton so that they both look at vegetables. Now, with Boisset’s touch, while the each other,” Boisset points out. (Opus One Winery facade retains its downtown originality (the iconic was a collaboration between Bordeaux’s Mouton Coca-Cola sign remains untouched) the interior Rothschild and the Robert Mondavi Winery). We want to has morphed into a sleek gourmet store. Boisset Boisset is proud that his family’s rare and make sure has added an expanded wine experience where historical wine artifacts can be shared with the shoppers can access 375 local wines and high- public. “We have the only two museums on that people end cult Napa labels. He has also expanded the wine in the US,” Boisset said, referring to the not only JCB Lounge and Tasting Salon in Napa Valley’s 5,000 square-foot Buena Vista museum along enjoy wine tony village of Yountville and added Senses, with the 3,500 square-foot 1881 Napa. “It’s a a boutique dedicated to fashion, beauty and lifetime’s collection between my parents, my but learn fragrance. “It’s exotic,” mused Boisset. What’s sister and I. We are extremely dedicated to about the up next on the Boisset acquisition agenda? I ask. the history and have invested in the future of history and “We have a vision for a restaurant, transporting the region and future generations. We want to people from wine tasting to retail,” said Boisset. make sure that people not only enjoy wine but culture of “It complements each other well.” So stay tuned learn about the history and culture of wine. wine for more of the Boisset wine lifestyle spreading world wide. v

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 41 PEOPLEINWINE RAJAT PARR The Man Outside the Box Shagun Mehra profiles the rise and rise of a Calcutta boy who has grown to be one of the world’s finest sommeliers and a cult winemaker

e is cool, calm and deep. Rajat the top. The Culinary Institute of America Parasher, who adopted the name was his first step into serious, world-class gas- Hof Raj Parr, describes himself as tronomy and a true culinary experience can- Parr goes someone who refuses to live inside the box. not exclude wines. Especially not in a coun- about his He likes to look at the box, and he needs try that produces some of the best wines in the box to be transparent. He goes about the world. So Raj Parr held a glass of wine, business with his business with unpretentious flair and immersed himself in it and never surfaced. unpretentious thought-provoking philosophy. Little did this It is hard to ignore one’s instincts, and his flair and Calcutta boy know that he was going to revo- heart had anchored inside a bottle of wine. thought- lutionize the world of wines in lands far away. He decided to pursue wine learning and, true Raj Parr studied hospitality management to form, zeroed in on the most formidable provoking like many others and decided to concentrate sommelier in the US – Larry Stone. While philosophy on his cooking skills. He aimed straight for holding down a job as a food runner at the

42 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 RAJAT PARR The Man Outside the Box

Rajat Parr Rubicon Restaurant in San Francisco to earn ed him. The only way he could give some- showcasing his Bloom’s Field his supper, Raj started spending all his free thing back was by reaching out to the many Pinot Noir from hours studying wines, determined to become struggling sommeliers and wine enthusiasts Domaine de la a sommelier. And once this Indian boy found through his books. Raj Parr co-authored the Côte in California his American guru, he went on to become one award-winning, “Secrets of the Sommeliers” at a tasting in the Maldives of the top sommeliers in the world. and then went on to co-write yet another He was eager not just to learn, but also to book called, “The Sommelier’s Atlas of Taste: share what he had learnt. His ambition was to A Field Guide to the Great Wines of Europe”. inspire and spread his passion for wines across By now it was clear to see that Raj Parr’s inter- the globe. He wished to make his subject more est in wine was anything but superficial. accessible and less intimidating. Growing He had tasted success, but he was not satisfied. up in India, with no access to wines, he was He was not going to settle inside the sommeli- acutely aware of the advantage life had grant- er box, so he stepped out onto vineyard sites,

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 43 Rajat was a vintner at heart, a farmer. He not only wanted to make wines, but he wanted to till his lands mindfully and nurture his vines with love

Clockwise from top: Cover of Rajat Parr’s Rajat Parr makes the natural next step. This is when the universe vines to play to the advantage of the terroir. itage by branding some of his signature wines pioneer of fine wines in India. Together they André Simon a point during a conspired for him to meet Saachi Moorman, Raj Parr was a pied piper and the Pinot Noirs, in Sanskrit. ‘Sandhi’, meaning treaty, was will fill our glasses with wines of the world award-winning wine masterclass. book co-authored with whom he formed a bond, a friendship and along with the other fine grapes of California, Domaine de la a pact to create the perfectly balanced, ter- that will sing for India. with Jordan Mackay Côte vineyard in a partnership – a relationship essential for him danced to his tune. The result was inevitable. roir-expressive wine one could possibly make. Meanwhile, Raj continues to cork and un- the Santa Rita Hills. to live his complete wine dream. Bright, light, fragrant wines started filling the Sandhi is the most Burgundy-esque of all the cork many a beautiful bottle while aspiring Three iconic wines Raj was a vintner at heart, a farmer. He not most discerning glasses on the globe. People in the Burgundian wines in the US. He also makes Domaine de to spend more time understanding natural style from Domaine only wanted to make wines, but he wanted marvelled and then they applauded. Raj was la Côte in the Santa Rita Hills of Santa Bar- farming from Indian agriculturists. And in de la Côte to till his lands mindfully and nurture his finally happy, sitting next to the box he had bara, a wine that won over the toughest critics between, he spends his days under the Santa vines with love, like one would one’s child. He custom designed. in a tasting against some of the rarest Burgun- Barbara skies and his evenings in and out of turned to ancient methods of vinification and dian wines, proof that Raj Parr was a force to the kitchen, surrounded by the warm banter steered towards bio-dynamic viticulture. He aj Parr might have an American be reckoned with and that the world of wine of his friends and family, tasting and savour- chose vineyards in Oregon and the Central twang but his Indian accent has not is ever evolving. ing the great bounties of life. Coast of California to make wines. Rleft him. He firmly believes that it He has revived his bond with his homeland May this Calcutta boy’s glass be ever full At first he struggled, like his old vines was because of the wide array of flavours and by forming an Indian wine importing com- and his wines continue to excel themselves, struggled to work their way towards extract- complex nuances he tasted in his formative pany called Massale Wines alongside Ansh for Raj Parr is the sun for a new generation ing the nectars of the soil. Slowly but surely, years in India that his palate was so open and Khanna, a young wine enthusiast turned en- of great Indian oenophiles, and long may he he sharpened his techniques, fine-tuning the diversified. He paid homage to his Indian her- trepreneur, and Sanjay Menon – importer and continue to shine! v

44 INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 45 Rajat was a vintner at heart, a farmer. He not only wanted to make wines, but he wanted to till his lands mindfully and nurture his vines with love

Cover of Rajat Parr’s itage by branding some of his signature wines pioneer of fine wines in India. Together they André Simon in Sanskrit. ‘Sandhi’, meaning treaty, was will fill our glasses with wines of the world award-winning book co-authored a pact to create the perfectly balanced, ter- that will sing for India. with Jordan Mackay roir-expressive wine one could possibly make. Meanwhile, Raj continues to cork and un- Sandhi is the most Burgundy-esque of all the cork many a beautiful bottle while aspiring wines in the US. He also makes Domaine de to spend more time understanding natural la Côte in the Santa Rita Hills of Santa Bar- farming from Indian agriculturists. And in bara, a wine that won over the toughest critics between, he spends his days under the Santa in a tasting against some of the rarest Burgun- Barbara skies and his evenings in and out of dian wines, proof that Raj Parr was a force to the kitchen, surrounded by the warm banter be reckoned with and that the world of wine of his friends and family, tasting and savour- is ever evolving. ing the great bounties of life. He has revived his bond with his homeland May this Calcutta boy’s glass be ever full by forming an Indian wine importing com- and his wines continue to excel themselves, pany called Massale Wines alongside Ansh for Raj Parr is the sun for a new generation Khanna, a young wine enthusiast turned en- of great Indian oenophiles, and long may he trepreneur, and Sanjay Menon – importer and continue to shine! v

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 45 Keeping up with the times ng e rer r an haagne n he uree are Mna nerre are n eanng her r nue ne r he nuer rer rna

an increase in the increasingly interested in wines. The The beginnings of Monika number of Indians market and industry has come a long Enterprises go back to 1987, when it enjoying wines during way from the time when choosing was founded by Kunal’s father and their travels abroad, savouring a glass wine was as basic as choosing between uncle, with another uncle joining the or two at home or at restaurants, and red or white wine.” Kunal adds that business subsequently. The company keen on getting value-for-money while unlike spirits, wine is not dominated functioned as a ‘bonder’ importing wanting to learn more about wine, the by a few major brands. “Any wine, spirits and subsequently champagne interests of Indian wine consumers, whether it’s a $10 or $100 wine, can for duty-free outlets, ship chandlers both connoisseur and novice, are be good. This makes it possible to and embassies. The founders built being increasingly kept in mind by look for different wines and create a up a strong and experienced in-house importers. Reflecting this sentiment unique portfolio of wines and present team, a well-connected wholesale and Kunal Patel, partner at Monika them to consumers”. Therefore, distributor network, and obtained Enterprises, Mumbai-based importers Monika Enterprises has expanded access to 44,000 sq ft of a world class of spirits and wines, says, “We see its three-decades-old duty-free import open and reefer warehouse at Panvel, great potential of growth in the wine business to also import wines for the Mumbai, with temperature controlled market segment. Indians are getting consumer market. and cold storage warehousing and

LIne-up of wines and champagnes from the updated portfolio of Monique Enterprises

46 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 logistics facilities. The second generation of the family Kunal, 28, and his cousin Hemang, 24, who looks after marketing and sales, stepped into the business a few years ago. They repeatedly heard representatives of spirits companies say that Monika Enterprises should also import other wines for duty-free outlets and the duty-paid market, along with champagne and spirits which was their core business. Jean-Sebastien Boileau, Export Director of Laurent-Perrier This feedback along with their own champagnes with Kunal Patel of Monique Enterprises observations of the growing demand for wines and spirits in the market, Goru produced by Ego Bodegas winery do not follow malolactic fermentation, led the partners to think of expanding from Jumilla DO in Spain, where the using a low dosage of liqueur de tirage their business. A meeting with Sujata native red wine grape Monastrell yields and ageing the champagnes for a longer Patil, Pune-based wine consultant, in a strong and tannic wine blended with time. 2017 (when she was promoting Besserat Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. “The portfolio has a sec variant de Bellefon champagne) resulted in Also included less known varietals known as Cuvée des Moines Se,from their collaborating for the import and from Australia such as orPetit Besserat de Bellefon produced for food marketing of wines. Subsequently, Sirah. The wines are dark, inky pairing with different cuisines. We also Sujata joined Monika Enterprises coloured with flavours of blue-and- have the Besserat de Bellefon Grande as sales head for the wine division black fruits with herbal and black Tradition Brut that can be enjoyed to develop an interesting portfolio pepper overtones, and a firm texture throughout a meal with different offering Indian consumers new wine and mouth feel. The Metal Label Durif courses,” says Sujata. experiences. is the only Durif wine in the market. The new initiatives of importing Monika Enterprises now imports Covering a range of styles, Monika wines for the duty-paid market 60 wine labels from eight countries Enterprises has wines that are 100% have worked out well and Monika – Spain, France, Germany, Italy, single varietals as well as interesting Enterprises is now supplying wines Lebanon, South Africa, Australia blends like Moscatel and Chardonnay and spirits to restaurants, bars and and USA – including wines that have in Goru El Blanco, and the Malvasia- retail outlets in Mumbai, as well as in beenrated high by wine critic James Chardonnay blend in Italian Primo. Bangalore, Delhi, , , Suckling, while six of their wines Other unusual choices to look out for and Chennai. They hope to register have received Gold and Silver medals are Stonecross Malbec and a Pinotage their wines and spirits next in Punjab at the India Wine Awards 2019. Two rosé from Deetlefs Wine Estate in and Rajasthan. were rated Best in Show and one as South Africa. “The wonderful thing about wines best Wine Pairing with Fabelle Dark Standouts among the various wine is that each wine has a story to tell. Chocolate Ganache. styles are prestigiouschampagnes I knew very little about wines when Their portfolio has lesser known likeLaurent-Perrier and the distinctive we took on wine imports. Now, I am wines like two reds from Clos du range produced by Besserat de Bellefon, thoroughly enjoying learning about Phoenix winery located in Bekaa Valley who obtain grapes from acclaimed wines as much as I am enjoying in Lebanon whose winemaker is from vineyards, using a higher percentage promoting them!” says Kunal. (www. Burgundy, and Marionette and El of Pinot Meunier in the blend. They monikaenterprise.in). v

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 47 WINESOFITALY Enchanting Abruzzo

48 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 A lesser known wine region that is finally coming into its own, Abruzzo is on the Adriatic coast in central Italy. Alessandra Piubello waxes eloquent about its natural Enchanting Abruzzo beauty and many charms

bruzzo knows how to enchant. Geographically as well as historically and culturally in the centre of Italy it is, to a large extent, linguistically linked Ato southern Italy. Simple and discreet, Abruzzo lives modestly and silently, delving into an ancient past, hiding incomparable treasures waiting for the visitor to discover. It is a territory brimming in history and culture as its numerous monuments, museums, Romanic castles and ancient necropolises dotted throughout the region prove. Splendid medieval hamlets – some of Italy’s most beautiful – are set into the mountains keeping the architecture and charm of stone intact. The traditions, produce of the land and local cuisine are all proof of a noble, age-old history remembered in the folklore of this region, where emotions are also evoked through historical re-enactments in costume, local rites and festivals that recall the models of a life gone by. A region that marches ahead at a brisk pace while always remembering the past, where livestock moved with the seasons along tiring walks leading the herds to pasture. In winter, the majestic mountains with modern ski resorts offer every type of winter sport can be practised. Abruzzo also has 130 kms of extremely beautiful coastline with a good 13 “blue flags” awarded for the quality of the water. The coast can be divided into two parts: wide and sandy beaches in the north while little bays and cliffs alternate in the south with Mediterranean vegetation and typical trabocchi, unusual wooden piers suspended over the sea between San Vito and Fossacesia, which are evidence of ancient fishing activities with some trabocchi converted into seafood restaurants. Abruzzo has been called “the greenest region in Europe” due to over 30% of the territory being protected reserve and parkland – rich in woods and mountains with a vast variety of flora, and unique fauna living in a natural habitat of incomparable

A view of Abruzzo vineyards and the Gran Sasso mountains in the background. With over 30% of protected reserve and parkland, Abruzzo has been called “the greenest region in Europe”

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 49 beauty. After Tibet, Abruzzo boasts the highest concentration of monasteries built on inaccessible mountains; an oasis of spirit in which to walk and take possession of our most intimate essence.

WINE-PRODUCING TERRITORY Abruzzo is naturally inclined to viticulture being located between the Adriatic Sea and the Gran Sasso and Majella mountain ranges, which play an important part in protecting the eastern side of the region from wintery, cold weather. In summer, on the other hand, and especially in the internal areas and the foothill zone, decisive temperature differences favour grape ripening and intensify characteristic aromas. Beauty, history, nature, landscape and wine are inseparable elements when speaking of The mountainous inland area makes up to over 65% of the entire region, while the coastal area with its hilly backdrop is bordered by the Adriatic Sea Abruzzo, a land that is still not fully explored. There are, in fact, around 200 wineries dotted Beauty, history, nature, landscape and wine cross the varied Abruzzo landscape, between the sea and mountains, vineyards and hills, are inseparable elements when speaking of disseminated from the trabocchi coast to the Abruzzo, a land that is still not fully explored Aquila highlands. A perfect circuit that must

50 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Far left and above: absolutely be seen and experienced. The Clusters of the native large province featuring lush vineyards while Montepulciano grapes beauty of the Abruzzo hills is a patchwork of and rows of vines with the hilltops and valley floors that approach the pergola vineyards with rows of vines set amidst pergola trellising sea from west to east abound in Mediterranean Mediterranean scrub and vast olive groves. All scrub and an extraordinary number of wild enriched by the presence of the blue Adriatic Sea, animals. Pescara is an authentic slipway plunging which kisses the generally cloudless sky and the towards the sea from the mountains. It features sun works in favour of the lush Abruzzo lands. a fertile plain that climbs between Italy’s two The mountainous inland area makes up highest non-Alpine mountains. The soils vary in over 65% of the entire region, while the coastal composition and give the products of this area area with its hilly backdrop is bordered by the extraordinary overtones. Adriatic Sea. The limestone-clay terrain of the Teramo is the region’s gastronomic cradle, hills is caressed by breezes from the Apennines a land of wonderful raw materials and famous and the sea. These soils are particularly ideal for dishes where the people have always been able producing structured wines and give grapes like to transform and process the produce of this Montepulciano d’Abruzzo every opportunity to generous province. The almost 3,000 metres express their potential. The sandy-clayey soils on of the mighty Gran Sasso mountain protects the hilly area next to the coast where the climate the underlying crops, sweeping away the clouds is milder, are especially good for cultivating white and sternly overseeing the incessant work of the grapes such as d’Abruzzo.. farmers. And then there is L’Aquila, a proud Over 83% of wine production is in the capital that hides exceptional wonders within its province of Chieti. The provinces of Pescara and surroundings: Marsica with the Fucine Valley, a Teramo produce about 10 and 6% respectively, fertile and productive area with what remains while the province of L’Aquila, the region’s of an enormous lake that man has reclaimed; capital, only produces 1%. Chieti is quite a Peligna Valley at the foot of the Majella and

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 51 Velino-Sirente mountain ranges is a cradle of culture (Ovid, the most sophisticated and elegant Latin poet, was born here) and is the land of origin of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. The most widespread native vine is Montepulciano, subdivided into five sub-zones and cultivated on about 17,000 hectares with a constantly growing trend. It is now grown on about 50% of Abruzzo’s vine-planted surface. The wine produced from it is corpulent and strong, dense and intense due to the power it expresses on the nose and palate. The producers know how to make more ready-to-drink versions but it is actually in the refining that Montepulciano softens and it is, in fact, an age-worthy wine. Next comes Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, a vine with a long history in the Abruzzo region. To the nose, the wine is light and discreet and can also be highly balanced in the mouth, which makes it suitable for a number of combinations, accompanying dishes with extreme versatility. Pecorino is the most fashionable Abruzzo Church interior with its altar and prie dieu or low benches for kneeling. wine at the moment. A typical characteristic of Below: After Tibet, Abruzzo boasts the highest concentration of monasteries built on inaccessible mountains

52 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Produce of the sea and land form the basis of the local cuisine. Right: Little bays and cliffs are dotted with typical trabocchi, wooden piers used for ancient fishing activities, now converted into seafood restaurants

The most widespread native vine is Montepulciano cultivated on about 17,000 hectares and now grown on about 50% of Abruzzo’s vine-planted surface Pecorino grapes is that, during the final ripening stage, the acidity curve remains constant rather than turning downwards. This particularity allows the wines to have considerable acidity together with good structure and longevity. Other native grapes are Passerina, which gives a fresh and simple wine; Cococciola with a high, almost acerbic note and perhaps the best sparkling wine in Abruzzo (even if Pecorino and Passerina are close contenders); Montonico, which, with its lively and rather inconstant productive behaviour, produces a well- structured, delicate and slightly sharp wine with sensations of white, pulpy fruit and aromatic herbs. The typical rosé is Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, obtained from Montepulciano grapes by limiting the fermentation period on the skins to just a few hours followed by white wine-making. What better way to conclude than to quote Pescara’s famous poet, D’Annunzio, who said, “Abruzzo is the most beautiful place on Earth: I promise.” v

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 53 SHERRY An idea whose time has come

Part II of Gagan Sharma’s comprehensive review of the marvellous produce of Spain’s Sherry Triangle

ake a sip, wait a moment, and then, wow! The magic of Sherry seldom fails. Well-educated wine palates can’t take T their hands off of a well-matured and age-refined sherry. What has been considered an afterthought for decades, a mahogany-hued, sticky, boozy, post-dinner sipper, is now increasingly acquiring much more space on wine lists as a drink in its own right. Oxidative have risen in stature since their revival in the mid 1980s and are now becoming as talked about amongst connoisseurs, sommeliers, and trade professionals as Grand Crus of Burgundy, single estate Napa Cabernets, or German Rieslings. Hailing from the Sherry Triangle of Andalusia, comprising Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa Maria, and Sanlúcar de Barrameda, sherries have two basic styles – biological and oxidative. Biologically produced sherries are the gift of a naturally occurring yeast called Flor, which is unique to these southern Spanish regions. Flor sits on top of the liquid in the partially-filled barrel, protecting the wines from oxidation and delivering its own unique character and a salty, seaweed-like, coastal taste. These light, crisp, and linear wines

An oxidative style of sherry, Palo are called Finos and Manzanillas. Cortado by Barbadillo is hard to find Oxidative sherries, however, are fortified wines

54 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Tio Pepe is best known for its Fino style of dry sherry made from the Palomino grape. The Tio Pepe brand is owned by González Byass

The magic of sherry seldom fails. Well-educated wine palates can’t take their hands off of a well-matured and age-refined sherry

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 55 that are finished with a dose of Spanish Exterior of González Interestingly, sometimes a sherry will Byass, a renowned to stabilise them, and then rested for Sherry producer in Spain begin as a Fino under flor, but is failed years with ample exposure to oxygen. These by the environment from maintaining tawny, golden, and copper-hued elixirs are ideal conditions for the existence of yeast, classified as Amontillado, Oloroso, or Palo which weakens and sinks to the bottom Cortado. of the barrel. Such wines, that began Producing these oxidative sherries is simple. their journey as biologically sherry, now To a finished dry wine a generous splash resort to oxidative maturation. This mix of local brandy is added to raise the alcohol of influences creates two very special and level up to 18%, eliminating any possibility hard-to-find styles called Amontillado and for the development of flor. The result is then Palo Cortado. Amontillados have a more transferred to a traditional 600-litre American biological bent, while in Palo Cortados oak barrel, called a butt. Butts are filled to oxidative ageing reigns. They are made only the 500-litre mark, allowing a chamber only in the best vintages, and are aged for of air to deliberately oxidise the wine. These the better part of a decade, at times more, wines, usually aged for five to eigtht years, making them a pricey proposition and an turn golden-hued, and thanks to the generous acquired taste. dosage of alcohol, retain their nervy booziness. They are called Oloroso. These are deliciously AMONTILLADO nutty, crunchy, earthy, toasty, and savoury, and It’s essentially a Fino that started under are brilliant food companions, especially with the influence of flor, aged biologically for roasted meats, garlic-heavy dishes, and hard three to six years, and then was slowly and blue cheeses. oxidised through the dying yeast layers in

56 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 oak barrels. It develops a darker shade from Oxidative OLOROSO the oak, and retains the refreshing zingy sherries are This is possibly how all sherries were crispness, yeasty and fresh-dough like tones, supposed to be. It is the simplest of all styles to with wild herbs, and a kiss of florals. It ages fortified make and, thus, the most difficult to master. to develop nutty, herbaceous, and tobacco wines that are The dry base wine is quickly fortified characters with an ethereal oaky tone at finished with a to approximately 18% alcoholic strength the finish. Such an accentuated elegance, and then transferred to ageing butts in the structure, and organoleptic goodness is due dose of Spanish presence of oxygen. That’s it! Some volume to the dual ageing process. Amontillados are brandy to is lost owing to the prolonged oxidation and best served slightly chilled, say at 12-14C, to stabilise them, the resultant Oloroso sits firmly at an alcohol enhance the complex aromas. and then rested level of 20-22%. In Jerez I had a dish of fresh clams cooked in Oloroso traditionally shows nutty aromas, white wine with garlic, capers, chives, and white for years of which walnuts and almonds are most onions that worked completely hand-in-hand commonly identifiable, with balsamic notes, with a mid-aged Amontillado. And yes, do dried fruits, toasted hints, tobacco, cedar, away with those small sherry copitas; taste them truffles, and forest floor. Older ones tend through the same glasses as a commendable to develop spice, meat, and leather notes as Burgundy or a German GG Riesling. well. Olorosos are dry and they are quite easy Lustau’s Almacenista Amontillado de to befriend, especially for those who have a Sanlucar and Amontillado de Puerto, Yuste’s taste for long-aged whiskies and dark spirits; Aurora, Gonzales Byass’s Amontillado del I suspect it results from the play of time, the Duque VORS, Tradicion’s Amontillado finesse of the oak, and the romancing of VORS, Diez Meritos’s Bertola 12 Years Old, oxygen with the liquid. and La Cigarrera Amontillado were amongst Amontillado sherry Technically, all Olorosos have to be dry the finest I tasted during my visits and I highly is aged biologocally and boast an identifiable greater structure, in barrels under the recommend them for those getting acquainted influence of flor for definitive weight, and a round mouthfeel from with the style. three to six years the first sip on. Oxidation can often trick you into believing that the liquid is sweet, with some candied notes, and Olorosos do justice to that mind-play. They are effortlessly complex, with a plethora of intense aromas and flavours, and are hauntingly memorable. After wine exams during a frosty London winter, my fellow-examinees and I would hop across the street to a neighbourhood bar and have a boozy Oloroso with a serving of toasted almonds and aged cheese. Although there’s game, smoked meat, aged beef and venison, and much more to pair, I personally believe the key to Oloroso’s perfect pairing is in simplicity. Do not sweat over concepts, and simply get a bowl of nuts and enjoy it, the way the Spaniards do. While at the Sherry Triangle, some of the Olorosos I most enjoyed were the Gonzalez Byass Matusalem Oloroso Dulce VORS, Lustau’s Anada 1990 and 1997, Yuste’s Aurora, and

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 57 the quintessential Tradicion’s VORS Oloroso. Oloroso is Oloroso. And from this emerges a wine with I wish I could have carried them all back home possibly how praiseworthy complexity: Palo Cortado. with me! Although over the years, the demand for all sherries this wine has soared – and so has its price – yet PALO CORTADO were supposed demand-supply gap needs plugging to let Palo Amongst oxidative sherries, Palo Cortado to be. It is the Cortado shine in its entirety. Such is its enigma, is the king. It’s the rarest of all sherries and that to produce a laudable Palo Cortado, first is surrounded by stories, myths, legends, and simplest of all nature must take its course. And needless to a generous dollop of exaggeration. Like most styles to make say, since technology and winemakers’ prowess good things, it originated accidentally, and no and, thus, the has advanced, they can successfully select the one fully understands its origins. most difficult correct liquid and the correct casks to ensure Even the website of the Consejo Regulador a reasonably good chance of developing a Palo (the regulating body set up in 1933) simply to master Cortado profile. describes it as ‘a wine of great complexity Does this mean that cellarmasters are now which combines the delicate bouquet of an able to deliberately make Palo Cortado, rather Amontillado with the body and palate of an than accidentally stumbling upon it? It seems Oloroso’. The finest is selected and to be an open secret that’s still spoken of in initially fortified up to 15% alcoholic strength, whispers between the rows of dusty sherry destined to age like a Fino under the blanket butts in Jerez bodegas. But this sherry’s very of flor. Upon periodic tastings, however, if ambiguous definition allows winemakers to the cellarmasters notice the development flirt with the boundaries within the style and of special characteristics in any casks, these carve their own styles, making it a further selected casks are further fortified up to 18% interesting proposition for wine drinkers to alcohol and left to age oxidatively like an develop a palate! In my visits to sherry country, Palo Cortados featured frequently, and they all superseded one another. Apart from the usual nutty, oxidative, and savoury tones, Palo Cortados can be astonishingly complex. Labels like Lustau’s Almacenista ‘Vides’, and ‘Cayentano del Pino’, Gonzales Byass’s Apostoles and Anada 1987, Obispo Gascon by Barbadillo, Privilege 1860 VORS by Hidalgo, and Palo Vortado VORS by Tradicion have set the mark so high, that they can convert a virgin sherry drinker to a Palo Cortado aficionado in a single sip. And once you’ve been introduced to the finesse

Del Duque, and complexity of this golden nectar, it’ll be Apostoles & hard to settle for anything else. Matusalem: very old complex THE FUTURE sherries, The internet is full of articles about from González sherry’s grim future, justifying the term Byass ‘extinction’, and prophesying its becoming

58 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Lustau East India Solera is a sweetened Oloroso sherry. The East India Company name refers to a time when wine was shipped to the East Indies

an ingredient only for cocktails and mixed century-old sherry of great provenance could drinks. To some extent they may have a go for only a few thousands. Couple that with point, but the global demand for fortified factors like limited production and rarity wines seems to be surging lately. value, the high cost of production and the Port is enjoying a newfound revival, the risks involved in prolonged cellaring, and the category of Madeira is slowly finding a second probable life ahead of them even after being life, and soon the sun will shine over sherries uncorked post their 100th birthday…all this too. Not for long will millennial drinkers be makes for a deal that’s irresistible. able to resist the charm of one of the longest- Although all of this is not enough to living liquids the wine universe has to offer promise a golden future for sherries, it is and in one way or the other the nectar will enough to conclude that the wine style isn’t keep reaching their copas before they realise its facing extinction just yet. Amongst all global full potential. cuisines, Spanish gastronomy is amongst the Besides, the value-for-money factor is not fastest growing, and with that comes this fine to be discounted. In auctions, where a 25 to tipple. With an array of styles, flavours, ages, 30 year old First Growth Bordeaux Grand and expressions, sherry will continue to rise Cru may easily fetch a five-figure euro tag, a and reserve its spot in our cellars. v

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 59 o often Roussillon is unceremoniously The wines of Roussillon are based on Grenache, Noir grouped together with the Languedoc, as as well as Gris and Blanc grape varieties that are perfect though Languedoc-Roussillon were one large for the production of what are clumsily called Vins Swine region, when in fact the two areas are Doux Naturel or fortified wines. quite different and quite distinct. They enjoy different At one time, virtually the entire production of the traditions and a different history. region was focused on vin doux, but things have changed Roussillon was part of Spain until the Treaty of so that the production of vin sec, as table wine is called, the Pyrenees in 1659; today it considers itself part has become much more important, although the vin of Catalonia, with the Pyrenees unifying Spanish doux remains very much part of the vinous tradition of Catalonia with French Catalonia. Many people here Roussillon. speak Catalan, whereas the second language of the Perpignan is the cultural centre of Roussillon, a city Languedoc is Occitan. built on the coastal plain. The vineyards of the region

ROUSSWINEEIN ILLON RESURGENT 60 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 are focused on three river valleys, the Agly, the Têt and Beyond the horizon are the first vineyards of the the Tech, all of which flow out into the Mediterranean. Languedoc, the large appellation of Corbières. And the soil is extraordinarily complex, with probably The very first appellations of Roussillon were, not more variations than in any other region of France, surprisingly, created for vins doux, for Rivesaltes, except perhaps Alsace. You will find limestone, clay, Maury and Banyuls producerd in 1936. Muscat galets roulés, both black and brown schist, granite, marl, de Rivesaltes followed in 1956. Table wines, or vins gneiss; the complexity is extraordinary. Viticulture is secs came later, in 1977, a few years before the key influenced not only by proximity to the sea, but also appellations of the Languedoc. the mountains which dominate the landscape. To the If you see the appellations as a pyramid, the bottom south is the Pyrenees chain, with Canigou the highest line is simply Côtes du Roussillon, which can cover peak at 2,785 metres and to the north, the foothills of much of the department of the Pyrenées Orientales and the Corbières with the iconic lookout tower of Tautavel. in all three colours. Next comes Côtes du Roussillon

Dramatic landscape of old vines with a backdrop of snowcapped mountains. Viticulture is infl uenced by proximity to the sea as well as the mountains

ROUSS ILLON

Roussillon has emerged from the shadow of the Languedoc to stand on its own merit. JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 61 osemary eorge reports Villages, for red wine only, from villages in the The IGP Côtes Catalanes covers most the northern half of the department, along the department except the area of Banyuls and Agly and the Têt valleys, with five villages or Collioure, for which the IGP is Côte Vermeille, areas singled out for an individual mention. named after the predominantly red soil of First came Caramany and Latour-de-France, the area. Grenache in all three colours is the then Lesquerde and Tautavel followed, and principal grape variety. It makes both vin doux finally and much more recently les Aspres, and vin sec, again in all three colours. You will which covers several villages, with a very precise find numerous vineyards of old vines; 100 years delimitation of individual plots. or more is not unusual, often with all three colours planted together, and there may well also oday the reputations of these be some Carignan as well, which adds colour and villages have shifted. As the most freshness to the blend. Syrah and Mourvèdre T recent creation, Les Aspres is are more recent newcomers, with Mourvèdre recognised for strong quality. Tautavel, giving some particularly successful results when linked with the neighbouring village of it is grown near the sea. Syrah can suffer in the Vingrau, also enjoys an exciting reputation, heat and drought, for there is no doubt that especially as Tautavel is also known for the All the wine conditions here are challenging for viticulture. discovery of a 450,000-year-old skeleton of growers are All the wine growers are aware of the impact Prehistoric Man in 1969. aware of the of climate change; they see it in the increasingly On the other hand hardly anyone makes dry conditions, that limit their yields. Olivier Lesquerde these days, while Caramany enjoyed impact of Saperas at Domaine Vial Magnères will not its initial reputation thanks to an energetic climate change; make his full range of wines in 2019, as he quite cooperative that was one of the pioneers they see it in simply does not have enough juice. His grapes of the fermentation technique of carbonic were like tiny berries. And the terrain is such maceration. Latour de France was once the increasingly that irrigation is impossible. Indeed, if you look favoured by one particular chain of wine shops; dry conditions, at the vineyards of Collioure and Banyuls, you these days it is a village associated more often that limit their wonder how any one works them at all! with natural wine-making. yields In a region where organic viticulture is While the appellation of Maury has long prevalent, many people will weed by hand. The existed for vin doux, Maury Sec is a recently terraces are narrow and mechanisation far from created table wine appellation – it was originally simple. I was party to an animated discussion intended to be another village of the Côtes between Elise Gaillard and her father Pierre, du Roussillon Villages, but for administrative a well-known Cote Rôtie producer, with an reasons that did not work, so Maury enjoys a estate in Banyuls which Elise runs for her second appellation. Its vineyards in the Agly father. Which was the more difficult terrain? valley are identified by its distinctive black They agreed to differ, but the term heroic schist soil, which gives its wines their particular viticulture certainly comes to mind, and sadly flavour. Another nearby village of note is Calce, the area of Banyuls and Collioure is declining where Gérard Gauby created the reputation of every year as older cooperative members retire one of the early independent wine growers in and their children do not wish to take over a region dominated by cooperatives. He has their parents’ vines. been a focal point, attracting several talented Surprisingly, perhaps, in an area where wine growers to Calce, or nearby. And further the climate makes for truly ripe grapes with south, almost on the Spanish border, you have high alcohol levels, the white wines are very Banyuls for vin doux, and the nearby village of successful and have an appealing freshness Collioure for vin sec, now in all three colours. and salinity. The principal grape varieties are

62 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 ©CIVR

The pretty fi shing port of Collioure, traditionally home to artists and anchovy-packers, lends its name to a wine producing area and dry table wines LANGUEDOC ROUSSILLON WINE REGION

Grenache in three colours is the principal grape variety. It makes both vin doux and vin sec in all three colours

Right: Low-yielding bush vines. The grapes come predominantly from ancient Grenache Noir bushes

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 63 ©SOBLER and bought vineyards, which are considerably cheaper in Roussillon than they are in more prestigious areas. For the price of a hectare of a premier cru Nuits St Georges or Vosne Romanée, it is possible to buy a sizable wine estate with a functioning cellar and house. So Roussillon has attracted newcomers to good effect, such as Burgundian Paul Meunier from Domaine de Centernach in St Arnac. Philippe Gard at Coume del Mas began his career near Chablis. Some of the big players in the Languedoc have also extended their horizons south, such as Domaines Paul Mas at Château Lauriga and the Lorgeril family at Château de Pennautier with Mas des Montagnes. But there is no doubt that the originality of Roussillon lies with the vin doux. Think of them as France’s answer to port or sherry. The style Glass bonbonnes Grenache Gris and Blanc, and Macabeo, which used for ageing wines is either reductive or oxidative. The Rimages of one rarely finds in the Languedoc. There is also outside in the sun Banyuls or the Grenat of Maury are fresh ripe Malvoisie de Roussillon or Tourbat, but that is wines, made without any influence of oxygen, less popular, and you will also find Vermentino, not unlike a good ruby port, but with more Marsanne and Roussanne. Refreshingly, during freshness and blatant fruit. several days of cellar visits, I did not encounter a single Chardonnay! anyuls Blanc is honeyed, while The sunny climate makes for red wines with Muscat de Rivesaltes is fresh and warmth and character, but the wine growers Bgrapey, and usually drunk young, also assert that they are looking for elegance although there are exceptions to every rule. and freshness, and taking steps to limit the However, most exciting of all, the real treasures alcohol levels in their wines. Winemaking has of Roussillon, are the oxidative wines, the improved in Roussillon, just as it has all over Winemaking Hors d’Age, that have been aged in barrels France. There is interest in new containers, has improved in outside, subject to all the elements for several eggs and amphora; oak-ageing is more refined, Roussillon, just years. The ageing may also include a period in with larger barrels, such as demi-muids of 500 or glass bonbonnes, also outside. And the flavours 600 litres, or much larger foudres, making for as it has all over are intensive, rich and nutty, not unlike a fine a less oaky impact on flavours. Some growers France. There is Tawny port. Sometimes they are aged in a favour a cool pre-fermentation maceration to interest in new solera, and they may be bone dry, rancio wines, help with the extraction of fruit, but they also containers, eggs with incisive acidity, more like a fino sherry. want to retain freshness of flavours. But sadly, these wines are under-appreciated. The other significant change in recent years is and amphora, The French have tended to drink them as an the decline of the cooperatives and the growth and oak-ageing aperitif, when often they are too heavy and in the number of independent wine growers. is more refined powerful. Instead, enjoy them after dinner, as a Some have taken family vines out of the village wine to meditate over, one that will encourage cooperative and developed their sales in bottle; conversation, and you will experience one of others have come from other parts of France the great vinous treasures of France. v

64 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020

DENBIES Single Estate Winery Text and photos by Carol Wright

66 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 enbies (denbies.co.uk) is England’s’s largest single estate wine producer with 265 acres (107ha) of its 650 acres under vines. It nestles in a fold of the Surrey Hills within easy Daccess of Heathrow, Gatwick and London. Its 33,000 vines produced one million bottles in 2018. A portion of these wines are made for leading supermarkets and labels are produced for 16 other vineyards. CEO Chris White is currently increasing the proportion under the Denbies label. Although seven of the Denbies wines have won many national and international awards, it is sometimes a struggle to market English labels. White says that the solid base of sales is through the farmhouse with 45% of their own labels being sold through the shop. The 350,000 annual visitors not only buy the wine but spread the word about its quality. Although he has important overseas markets in Japan and the United States, White concentrates on the domestic market which includes making Denbies an attractive destination for a day out, and now, with the UK’s first in-vineyard hotel, a place to stay longer. Many vineyards run tours and tastings but White has taken the visitor experience to new heights. It’s a blueprint for successful use of the land throughout the year. While the work of wine production goes quietly on, visitors are allowed to come and go freely.They can walk or cycle on the trails through the estate that include a part of the North Downs Way.

Denbies, England’s largest single estate wine producer, allows visitors a free run of the estate JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 67 Main entrance to Denbies wine estate. The original farmhouse now has a bar that opens (pictured below) to a large, airy, glass- fronted restaurant

68 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Maps are provided showing plots of different grape varieties. Bacchus, Muller Thurgau and Pinot Noir are among the dominant varieties grown and there are experimental patches where new varieties are trialed. If they don’t work they are ruthlessly removed. Other ways of exploring are by horse-drawn carriage or a train pulled by a landrover that takes visitors to the vineyard heights where they can admire the view while sampling one of Denbies sparkling wines. Weddings and celebrations take place under a huge oak tree, sheltering barrel top tables for serving wine. There is a year-round calendar of events including running and cycling competitions such as the pre-harvest Bacchus Marathon in which competitors in fancy dress run through the vineyard fuelled by wine tastings at various points. Other events include a Harvest Jazz Festival, Summer Opera on the lawn beside the vines and a pre-Christmas Santa Fun Run. Also keeping visitors occupied are a micro-brewery, a selection of restaurants, a large shop that includes wine and wine accessory sales, a farm shop underlining Denbies’ close association with local food producers and usage in food pairing tastings, and a plant centre where those entranced by the vineyard can buy vines to start their own patch.

ellar tours, tastings and food pairings, themed wine dinners, and afternoon tea with sparkling wine are offered. The most enchanting way Cto have lunch, dinner or tasting is to book one of the two cabanas on the lawn that separates the vineyard restaurant terrace and winery from the vines. White would like to add more of these. The cabanas take up to nine people on comfortable padded and cushioned banquettes round a table. There have solar Denbies Flint Valley, a crisp heating and lighting, and roll-down all-weather blinds. and fresh white wine made An evening tasting here with shared platters of local cheese (some with from Reichensteiner and Seyval Blanc grapes names like Blue Murder and Dirty Vicar), cured meats, chunky fillets of smoked salmon and salads, chosen to pair with a selection of wines, are hosted by Jeremy Blood, a former police inspector who now owns the Surrey Wine School (surreywineschool.com). He may start with Cubitt Blanc de Noirs 2013, a WineGB (Wines of Great Britain) gold winner. This sparkling wine is ideal, Blood says, with rich foods like smoked salmon and creamy cheese that cut The most enchanting through the wine’s acidity. Blood declares, “English wines go well with food”, way to dine is to proving it by pairing white Ranmore Hill 2017 with smoked pork loin; whose book one of the two nuttiness also goes with cheese. Ranmore Hill 2017 wine was winner of Wine GB’s best blended white wine. cabanas on the lawn England is not noted for its red wines although Denbies produces two very that separates the drinkable ones. Zig Zag that gets its name from the path used in the 2012 vineyard restaurant Olympic games up Box Hill alongside the vineyard, and Denbies’ Redlands NV terrace and winery which goes well with local pastrami and iberico ham. The introduction of a 17-bedroom hotel, partly in the original estate from the vines farmhouse and partly a new build, has made it possible for wine enthusiasts and those who just want a relaxing rural break, to stay. At certain times of the year they can volunteer to take part in vineyard tasks. The farmhouse now contains a bar with a cork wall that opens out into a large, airy, glass-roofed

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 69 restaurant with one wall decorated with wooden riddling racks. This is the place for tea on the terrace, breakfast and dinner. The short dinner menu and seven-label wine list of estate wines pairs easily with Money is reinvested food such as Ham hock terrine, Lamb rump with Puy lentils, Wild in facilities and mushroom risotto and Coconut cheesecake with pineapple and lime machinery. Denbies sorbet. The wine list includes whites such as Surrey Gold, Denbies top seller, the Redlands red, a rosé and three sparkling wines. is the only UK White says that money from the visitors and wine sales is reinvested vineyard with in facilities and machinery. Denbies is the only UK vineyard with a a costly picking costly picking machine. The machine which straddles the vine lines has paddles that remove the ripest bunches. Its record collection was 50 tons machine in a day which would take 20 pickers two days to achieve. All grapes for sparkling wines are picked by hand. White uses the same team of agency workers and keeps them employed with tasks round the year so they Pictured with SI wine magazine, Chris White, the hands-on CEO, took know the vineyard intimately. over the running of the estate in 2002

he vines, which are planted by laser, form regimented rows swooping up and down the hill folds set two metres apart with T1.5 metres between each vine. The estate is surrounded by a deer fence but deer, rabbits and, in particular, badgers remain a problem. Frost is another enemy. Money has been spent on a Tow and Blow portable wind machine that combats freezing temperatures by circulating air to prevent the frost from settling. If the temperature does drop below 1°C a weather station signals the vineyard manager who then drives round in a tractor towing a heat buster. This is powered by gas and looks and acts like a giant hair drier, along with a huge static oscillating fan, circulating warm air and preventing any frost pockets forming. Investments in the winery include completely automatic degorgement machines. Next year, storage capacity will be increased to take an extra 100,000 bottles. Denbies today reflects changes in English wine production over the past 30 years. The former pig, cattle and arable farm was bought by White’s father in 1982. The farm was not doing well but a geologist friend, Professor Richard Selley identified the land and its south facing slopes as linked to the chalky terroir of Champagne and suitable for planting grapes. The first wine was produced in 1989. Among the 18-plus varieties now grown, the leaders are Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir (Denbies’ top seller, Surry Gold is 100% Pinot Noir). Reichensteiner, Bacchus (planted two years ago and being increased), Chardonnay, Muller Thurgau, Dornfelder and Ortega. Single grape growth can be ruined in a year of bad weather so more varieties have to be planted and Denbies continually looks to its trial patches. The visitor map details the variety, year of planting and number of vines. Muller Thurgau with 52,000 vines is in two of the largest blocks near the winery. With climate change, harvest dates have been gradually getting earlier. In 2019 the harvest began on 20th September compared with 1st October

70 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Denbies Vineyard at dusk with a in 2018 and in November some years ago. striking red sky. The vines form White recalls the early days of English wine being criticised for its quality, regimented rows swooping up and down the hill folds up-and-down harvests, inconsistency and expense. Denbies current retail prices range from Rs 847 to Rs 5,212 for their sweet, Brokes Botrytis Ortega 2016. Initially, the average English vineyard size was one to two acres compared to 300 acres today. White took over managing the company in 2002 and concentrated on farmhouse gate sales. As this succeeded and developed, more facilities were added and employee numbers rose from 45 to 175. Hard work and reinvestment have enabled Denbies to produce a range of award-winning wines, mostly named for parts of the estate. Wines are divided into Classic Collection, well established quality and consistent wines; Vineyard Select, made only in the best years from select parcels on the estate; and Cellarmasters Choice, made from premium grape varieties. Their sparkling Bacchus is only one of two English sparkling wines Hard work and made from 100% Bacchus grapes and is described as having hints of lavender reinvestment have and elderflower overlain with brioche. It is fresh and fruity with nut and flavours, and is crisp and dry on the finish. Other single grape wines are Cubitt enabled Denbies to Reserve Blanc de Blancs 2013 made from Chardonnay and Cubitt Reserve Blanc produce a range of de Noirs 2013 made from Pinot Noir. award-winning wines, White, while constantly thinking of new grape varieties to plant and more attractions for visitors, also considers other crops and is trialing crocuses for mostly named for parts saffron. He also has one hectare of truffles which should mature in a couple of the estate of years’ time. v

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 71 Alto Adige 2019 Summit

Michèle Shah reports on the unique wines produced in an equally unique geographical location

Eduard Bernhart, director of the ®AlexFilz Consortium of Alto Adige Wine

72 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 he majestic range of Dolomite mountains, a UNESCO site, situated in northeastern Italy, is the backdrop to the extraordinary region Tof Alto Adige/South Tyrol, which is home to some of Europe’s highest mountain peaks, rising to a majestic 3,000 metres, featuring breath-taking, vertical walls, sheer cliffs and a high density of narrow, deep and long valleys. Glaciers, secluded valleys, and sunny vineyards are situated close together, only a few miles from each other. The scenic variety of Alto Adige and its geological conditions offer fertile ground for bio-diversity. That is precisely the source of the mineral-rich cuvée that is a characteristic identity found in Alto Adige’s multitude of varieties. At the Alto Adige 2019 Wine Summit the theme of “contrasts” ran like a leitmotif through the event. Eduard Bernhart, director of the Consortium of Alto Adige Wine, emphasized that the Alto Adige Wine Summit has become an important programme for the internationalisation of the region’s wine industry. “It is our desire to place Alto Adige wine in a larger context,” explained Bernhart. “The 130 international guests invited to attend the summit will have the opportunity to experience at first hand the contrasts that characterise the local wine production. In that way, they can better understand and appreciate the quality of our wines.” According to Bernhart, these contrasts result not only from the varying elevations, with vineyards between 200 and 1,330 metres above sea level, but also from the geological composition of the soils as well as the temperature ranges between day and night, which impart to the wines their aromatic profile and freshness. He went on to add that today, Alto Adige wine stands strongly and confidently in a local, national, and international context because “the extraordinarily high number of awards for Alto Adige wines shows that the province, although a small

Snowcapped peaks of the majestic Dolomite mountains that form the backdrop to the region of Alto Adige situated in northeastern Italy

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 73 Above: Carlo Ferretti, specialist in agriculture. character of a land? With regard to winegrowing, Left: Martin Foradori, vice we call it terroir, which is a complex interweaving president of Consortium of Alto Adige of geographic, geological, climatic, and even cultural and social factors. Every little variation counts. Climate, location, soils, and people form an unmistakable totality. And in Alto Adige, the terroir forms the basis for the potential of the great wines that are grown here: these are unique wines at the intersection of Alpine and Mediterranean vegetation and culture.” Despite this positive picture, experts Georg Niedrist, senior researcher at the Institute for Alpine Environment in Bolzano and geologist Carlo Ferretti, specialist in the agricultural sector, with a solid track record of studies on the grape varieties of the Alto Adige, expressed wine region, is today held in esteem throughout concern regarding the constant temperature rise the world”. Bernhart closed by pointing out, “A and the presence of so-called “extreme” weather significant portion of Alto Adige wines is now events. being exported.” “The scorching heat and periods of drought, Martin Foradori, Vice President of the hailstorms, water bombs and late frosts, Consorzio of Alto Adige and owner of the although statistically still quite rare, are events Hofstatter estate in Tramin – the home of the that have enormous destructive potential, and Traminer vine, elaborated on the components are therefore just as relevant as the constant rise that make up the character of a wine. “First, it in temperatures. Although in South Tyrol these is necessary to ask, what is it that makes up the extreme events do not yet mark a real surge,

74 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Alto Adige Facts and Figures 5,500 hectares (13,600 acres) of grape-growing area of which 5,400 hectares (13,300 acres) are DOC classifi ed

740,000 hectares 7,400 sq km (2,857 sq miles) of total area

Only 14% of the total area is at an elevation of 1,000 metres (3,300 feet) or less

98% of the total vineyard area is DOC classifi ed

Alto Adige One Alto Adige has represents third of 530,000 Alto Adige inhabitants. one wine is Around 2/3 of percent of Italy’s exported them are 33,000,000 litres total wine abroad native German- production of wine are produced speakers, around on average every 1/4 are native year, equivalent to Italian speakers, 44,000,000 bottles and in a few valleys in the Dolomites, a 62% of the small segment quantity produced of the population is white wine, are native Ladin- 38% is red wine speakers. international research indicates that they are increasing both in frequency and in intensity,” an international panel of wine critics and experts lamented Ferretti. at the Cortaccia Rosso event, an international comparison held during the Summit, featuring he province’s climate lies along the a series of mixed flights of red wines, made Tmeteorological divide of central and up of top scoring Bordeaux Grand Crus; southern Europe. The Alps protect the area Bolgheri wines such as Sassicaia and other from cold air masses from the north, filled with top Tuscan international blends. These were precipitation, while warm, moist air currents intermingled with international Bordeaux-style from Lake Garda and the Mediterranean find blends from Cortaccia producers, including their way to Alto Adige. Mild, sunny days, Cantina Cortaccia; Baron Widmann estate; warm soils, sufficient precipitation, cool nights, Tiefenbrunner estate and Peter Dipoli estate. and strong winds bring fruity freshness into The aim was to show that these local Alto Adige Alto Adige wines. At elevations of up to 1,000 estates from the area of Cortaccia could make as metres, demanding varieties such as Pinot good as, or better, Bordeaux blends when judged Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Noir are in a blind tasting. The results did in fact show characterised by a particular finesse, and in similar or better scores for the Cortaccia blends, the valley areas the late ripening varieties such proving the fact that the full potential of Alto as Lagrein, Merlot, and Cabernet reach ideal Adige is still not recognized. With such positive maturity. results, however, Alto Adige wine producers can A perfect example of this was experienced by afford to be optimistic about the future. 

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 75 MEETTHECHEF Chef Akshraj Jodha RAJASTHAN’S ROYAL CUISINE

Over a curated lunch of superb Lal Maans followed by Ker Sangri and the unusual Chakki ka Saag, Kaveri Ponnapa explores the idea of Rajasthani cuisine with Chef Akshraj Jodha, executive chef at the ITC Windsor, Bengaluru

In a conversation about the cuisine of Rajasthan, it’s impossible to ignore several Rajasthani cuisine is a very general centuries of Rajput history or Chef Akshraj Jodha’s ancestry that stretches back to the term. Would you say that the cuisine legendary Rao Jodha, the founder of Jodhpur. Currently the executive chef at the ITC is perhaps not as well-known as is Windsor, Bengaluru, Chef Jodha had his sights set firmly on entering the National generally thought? Defence Academy – a career his warrior ancestors would probably have approved There is really no one, unified cuisine of thoroughly – when circumstances conspired to send him to the Institute of Hotel that can be called Rajasthani. Each Management, Mumbai, and from there, into the 5-Star kitchen as a professional chef. state, each area has its own way of A formative stint at the Taj President, Mumbai; a coveted apprenticeship under Chef making certain dishes. For instance, lal Imtiaz Qureshi; a short time in Malaysia, and several years of experience all led him maans, gatta, ker sangri are all common back to exploring and promoting his own culinary heritage. dishes, but the recipes differ slightly The 84 villages of Akheraj Deolia, Ajmer, the seat of the lineage founded by one according to where they are made. of Jodha’s ancestors, flanked by historic Marwar and Mewar, produced a cuisine Then there are ingredients that are influenced by its unique geographical and political history. This was the starting common, based on the terrain and point of Chef Jodha’s journey into the cuisine of royal Rajasthan. It came with a few climate: dehydrated vegetables; dried challenges: India’s royal tradition was one where cooks to state kitchens often bore watermelon rind; channa dal (split the title of the quantity and exclusivity of the dish that they prepared – a 200-person chickpeas), besan (chickpea flour), pulao cook, for instance. Dishes unique to a family were prepared in several stages by kachri, used as a tenderizer as well as different cooks, so that no one person was able to master the complete technique, and a vegetable — all important elements, several custodians of ancient cooking techniques took their secrets with them. So, for as they were long lasting in an arid Chef Jodha, procuring a recipe was sometimes complicated. environment. Rather than water-based gravies, ghee, onion, garlic and yogurt

76 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Executive Chef Akshraj Jodha likes promoting his culinary heritage were worked into curries. Many dishes, ‘‘Some of the dishes, such as matki maans – meat cooked such as junglee maans, were created in a clay pot and topped with marinated mince – came around the extended hunting season which could last up to three months. from old staff who have been with my family for years’’

How do you select the dishes that you and Udaipur all influenced our food. There are several vegetarian dishes like present? What is the focus of your Marriage alliances amongst royal pithod (yogurt and chickpea flour cakes menus? families across states played a role too. in a gravy) and the unusual chakki sholla I have drawn on the food of Akheraj My grandmother was from Gujarat, so (wheat gluten kebabs on skewers). This Deolia, and the focus is on the region. there is a family preference for lightly involves a lost technique from Jodhpur, Ajmer is situated between Mewar, sweetened dishes. where wheat gluten is painstakingly Marwar and Jaipur. We incorporate extracted to create a texture that is close the produce of each of these distinct You have developed five- and seven- to meat. Of course, there is always dal regions into our own cuisine. For course menus to showcase the food baati choorma. instance, maize and amla, grown in of Rajasthan. What are some of the Mewar, and bajra from Marwar are dishes that you serve? How did you collect recipes? Did you both used in our cuisine. In addition, A menu might include maans tikka have to work them out for yourself, or Ajmer was unique historically, as its 16 bootan (lamb marinated and cooked did people also invite you into their major lineages were directly under the over an open fire); akhi bater (quail kitchens and demonstrate them to you? rule of Delhi. So, the influences were marinated in spices) and hara maans Most of the recipes are inherited, many syncretic: the Mughals, Jaipur, Jodhpur (mutton in spices and betel leaves). of them collected from my mother.

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 77 Clockwise from left: Laal Maans, Ker Sangri and Maans Bajra Soyeta are some specialist dishes from Chef Akshraj’s culinary repertoire

Some of the dishes, such as matki Which is the preferred variety of dried cooked in a pit – has found its way maans – meat cooked in a clay pot and red chilli that defines the cuisine of on to my buffet menu, as farmed topped with marinated mince – came Rajasthan? rabbit is available. I also received a from old staff who have been with my Several varieties of red chillies are beautiful book on the royal cuisine family for years. Family connections grown all over Rajasthan. But the ones of Kota from one of my maternal have also helped in putting together that come from the village of Mathania uncles who belongs to the Kota royal dishes. Extended family members near Jodhpur are valued for their bright family. It was written in Hindi in the have invited me to royal kitchens and colour and spice levels. 1920’s, and has recipes for a range of shared recipes. pulaos, special rotis, dals and kheers of While exploring and developing every description from Kota, as well Are there some recipes that ‘got away’, recipes, did you get to see any old as some from Madhya Pradesh. which people may not have been recorded recipes in books with any of willing to share? the royal families and include any of Which is the cuisine that you enjoy There are many recipes that are the dishes in your menus? cooking, apart from Rajasthani? difficult to re-create, despite the dishes I spent quite a lot of time in Jodhpur, I love cooking regional cuisines looking deceptively simple. Families are where I was working at the ITC and try to promote them. Some of reluctant to part with specific details. Welcome Hotel. I used to visit my favourites are Gujarati, as my Fortunately, there are also several dishes Mehrangarh Fort very often and grandmother was from the Gujarat that are well-known, even though there through INTACH, I managed to get royal family. The food of Himachal may be slight differences in the way they some recipes based on old records. is very interesting, especially Dham are made, such as gatta and pithod. Most of them were for wild game, cuisine, the elaborate vegetarian feasts so they could not be reproduced. cooked by priests for celebrations — Red chillies are central to many dishes. However, khad khargosh – rabbit and I really like my pandi curry! v

78 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 WINELOVER’SCOOKBOOK Plummy Fare for all the year

hristmas Pudding is the rich culmination of a long tradition Cof “plum puddings” which can be traced back to the early 15th century. Like early mince pies, they contained meat, of which a token remains in the use of suet. The name “plum” referred to prune, but it soon came to mean any dried fruit. The rich Currants – 110 g dish was served on feast days such as Raisins – 225 g cooker. Remove foil and allow to cool. All Saint’s Day, Christmas, and New Sultanas – 110 g Invert the pudding onto a serving plate Year’s Day. What currently counts as Prunes or dried apricots chopped – 50 g and serve with Brandy or Rum Butter. the traditional Christmas Pudding Blanched almonds chopped – 110 g recipe has been more or less established Grated rind and juice of 1 lemon since the 19th century. The pudding is Grated rind of half an orange traditionally served with rum or brandy Golden syrup or black treacle – 1 tblsp Brandy or Rum Butter butter, topped with a sprig of holly and Ale, beer, stout or milk – 142 ml set alight with rum or another spirit. Unsalted butter – 100 g We offer you a pressure cooker METHOD Icing sugar, sieved – 150 g variation of the classic recipe 1. Mix all ingredients Brandy or rum – 4 to 8 dessert for Christmas Pudding, which together and leave spoons keeps well and can be served overnight throughout the year. 2. Place in one large METHOD or two small greased Cream the INGREDIENTS pudding basins and butter until Flour – 110 g cover tightly with foil or white. Breadcrumbs – 50 g greaseproof paper Gradually add Mixed Spice – 1 tsp 3. Place on pressure cooker rack the sugar and Cinnamon – 1 level tsp and pour in boiling water to come up brandy or Nutmeg – 1 level tsp to the sides of the basin rum. Leave in Suet or melted butter 4. Close the pressure cooker without the fridge to – 110 g the weight and steam rapidly for 30 harden. Remove Brown Sugar – 110 g minutes. Now place the weight and from fridge and allow Grated Apple – 110 g build up the pressure. After one whistle, to soften slightly before Carrot – 1 small, lower the heat and cook for 1-1/2 to serving, grated 2 hours piped or piled Mixed candied peel – 110 g 5. Allow the pressure to reduce. into a dish. Eggs – 2 Remove the pudding basin from the

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 79 PHOTOFINISH Wine Moments Wine represents the good life. We dip into our Photo Album to bring you a few memorable moments in wine

Reva K Singh pictured with Jean Battault, President of Dijon Congrexpo, and Signing the register after being Mme Battault, following the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin intronisation inducted as a member of Confrérie des ceremony at Château du Clos de Vougeot in Burgundy Chevaliers du Tastevin

Koni Kapur and Rita Kochhar at a dinner of The Wine Society at Mesa Bistro & Wine Bar at Aerocity, New Delhi

Samir and Tandip Kuckreja at Mesa Bistro & Wine Bar

Promoter of Mesa Bistro and Wine Bar, Ranjit Gupta and his wife Nanda

Rukn Luthra, Jo Iyer & Vani Chawla at a Wine Society dinner

80 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Authors Jancis Robinson & Hugh Johnson signing copies of the World Atlas Stanley Pinto, founder of The Bangalore Black Tie (TBBT) of Wine at Vintners Hall, London, and India consultant, Reva K Singh Club pictured with Indu Karumbaya and Chetan Kamani

(L to R) Ambassador of Chile, Juan Angulo, Kulbir Singh and former (L to R) Arun Kumar, Amandas Miller Madhava, Visheshwar President of Chile, Eduardo Frei Ruiz Tagle at the ambassador’s Raj Singh, Nandu Madhava and Chetan Kamani at a TBBT residence in New Delhi dinner at the Leela Palace Hotel in Bangalore

Reva K Singh with Lavina Kharkwal, Madhulika (L to R) Bangalore Black Tie club members, Sabine Graf, Dhruv Sawhney Bhattacharya and Guillaume Krithi Karanth, Uma Naganand, Yuki Fukuyshima Oe, Blanchard of Castello Banfi Sandhya Subramanian, Avinash Sosale, Saroj Ray and Ananth Narayanan

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 81 glossary

AMARONE The most famous dried puckering or drying of the mouth’s grape wine in Italy produced from the tissues. Puckering is a tactile response BENTONITE A type of clay that is used same grapes and in the same zones as to compounds such as tannins. in the process of fining. Clay is mixed Valpolicella. High quality grape bunches into wine to clarify it. As the clay settles are dried, often allowing Botrytis to form AUSLESE A classification in the German to the bottom, it absorbs and carries with on the grapes. The grapes are then QmP system that means “selected”. it suspended particles. pressed and fermented, resulting in an These wines are sweeter than Spätlese. intense, highly alcoholic wine with some BIODYNAMIC A way of farming without oxidative qualities that vary depending BALANCE A reference to the the use of chemical or synthetic sprays on the presence of noble rot. harmonious relationship between or fertilisers, vinified with natural yeast, the acids, alcohol, tannins and other and minimal use of filtration, sulphur, APPELLATION D’ORIGINE compounds in wine. and chaptalisation. Biodynamic grape CONTRÔLÉE (AOC) This is the French growers also base their planting and appellation system that controls and AVA An AVA is an American Viticultural harvesting schedule by astrological designates wines, spirits, cheeses, Area that has been recognized by the events and cycles. and other foods of distinct geographic federal government for a distinctive regions in France. Pessac-Léognan is combination of soil, climate, and BLANC DE BLANCS A term literally an important wine appellation created identifiable regional wine character. meaning, “white of whites,” referring to in 1987 in Northern Graves, Bordeaux, AVAs are often referred to as appellations wine that is made from white grapes. renowned for red wines with longevity. or districts. The word appellation (and For example, champagne produced with the AVA concept) comes from the only chardonnay grapes. ARNEIS (ar-nez) is a white Italian grape French Appellation d’Origine Côntrolée variety originating from Piedmont. laws, which are meant to ensure quality BLANC DE NOIRS Literally, “white of Arneis (little rascal, in Piemontese) is within specific regions of France. blacks”, describing a white wine made a difficult grape to grow. A crisp, floral from black grapes, usually pinot noir in varietal, the wines tend to be dry and full BARRIQUE French word for barrel. champagne. bodied with notes of pears and apricots. Used worldwide to describe any small oak cask. BODY The impression of weight or ASSEMBLAGE The blending of base fullness on the palate; usually the result wines to create a final cuveé, or blend. BEERENAUSLESE The fourth level of of a combination of glycerin, alcohol This is a crucial part of the champagne the German QmP system. Wines of this and sugar. vinification process. classification are made from grapes that are harvested later and have some noble BOTRYTIS CINEREA A beneficial form ASTRINGENCY A sensation of rot. They tend to be rich and sweet. of Botrytis bunch rot commonly referred to as “noble rot” that produces flavours that harmonise with the grape flavours. One of the most famous is the sweet wine, .

BRUT A general term used to designate a relatively dry (low sugar content) champagne or sparkling wine.

CHARMAT Method of producing sparkling wines, aka, Metodo Italiano or Martinotti-Charmat with the second fermentation in stainless steel tanks instead of the bottle as in the traditional méthode champenoise.

COULURE (pronounced coo-LYUR)

82 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 is triggered by periods of cold, cloudy, rainy weather or very high out-of- season temperatures that causes a failure of grapes to develop after flowering. Flowers stay closed and are not fertilized. It also occurs in vines that have little sugar content in their tissue.

CUVEÉ A blend or special lot of wine.

DECANT Pouring wine out of the bottle to aerate and remove sediment

DISGORGING (DÉGORGEMENT) Disgorging in sparkling wines involves the freezing and ejection of yeasty sediment that settles in the neck of a bottle after the second fermentation. FORTIFIED Denotes a wine whose is added to top up the wine in the bottle DIURNAL RANGE The difference alcohol content has been increased by after disgorging to balance high levels between day and night temperatures. the addition of brandy or other neutral of acidity. Cool nights help slow the loss of aromas spirits. and acidity in the grapes during ripening. METHUSELAH An extra large bottle Warm nights accelerate ripening. GRAND CRU A wine of the highest rank holding six litres; the equivalent of eight or reputation within its appellation. standard bottles. DOSAGE In bottle-fermented sparkling wines, a small amount of (usually sweet) GREEN HARVEST Trimming unripe MOUSSE Effervescence or frothiness wine is added back to the bottle after the grapes to decrease crop yields, thereby in the mouth from a sparkling wine. A yeast sediment that collects in the neck increasing the concentration of flavours ‘creamy’ mousse is a lively sparkle on of the bottle is disgorged. in the remaining bunches. the palate without being too frothy.

DRY WINE A wine which has no sugar HALBTROCKEN Means “half dry” in MOUTHFEEL The tasting term used levels or has levels that are so low that German and in wine. particularly for red wines to describe the they cannot be detected by the tongue. texture of a wine within the mouth. This JEROBOAM An oversized bottle relates to attributes such as smoothness EN PRIMEUR is commonly associated holding the equivalent of six bottles. or grittiness. Among the factors that with where the previous In Champagne, a jeroboam holds four influence a wine’s mouthfeel are tannin, year’s harvest is available for tasting and bottles. acidity, body and bitterness. contract sales several months before the wine will be bottled and released. KABINETT The first level of the German MUST The unfermented juice of grapes QmP rating system, indicating wine extracted by crushing or pressing. Also FERMENTATION The process of made from ripe berries that are not grape juice in the cask or vat before it is converting sugar into alcohol and carbon purposefully harvested late. This is the converted into wine. dioxide affected by the oxygen free driest of the designations. metabolism of yeast. NEBUCHADNEZZAR A giant wine LATE HARVEST On labels, indicates bottle holding 15 litres; the equivalent of FILTRATION Straining solid particles that a wine was made from grapes picked 20 standard bottles. in wine with various types of filters. An later than normal and at a higher sugar alternative to natural settling,it speeds level than normal. Often associated with NOUVEAU A style of light, fruity, youthful up the winemaking process, allowing botrytized and dessert-style wines. red wine bottled and sold as soon as better control. It is sometimes argued possible. Applies mostly to . that filtration strips a fine wine of some LEES Spent yeasty sediment remaining of its complexity and capacity for aging. in a barrel or tank during and after NON-VINTAGE Blended from more than fermentation. one vintage. This allows the vintner to FINING The process of clarification and maintain a house style from year to year. stabilisation by adding a clarifying agent LEGS Droplets of wine that slide down Many champagnes and sparkling wines, to coagulate or absorb the colloids in a the glass after swirling it. This is a good ports and sherries are non-vintage. wine for efficient precipitation. Commonly indicator of the wine’s alcohol content. used fining agents include egg whites, OXIDISED Wine that has been exposed fish bladders (isinglass) and bentonite. LIQUEUR D’EXPÉDITION A mix of too long to oxygen and taken on a wine and a small amount of sugar that brownish colour, losing its freshness.

JANUARY-MARCH 2020 Sommelier INDIA 83 Oxidised wines are also called maderised or sherrified. PHENOLICS Phenolics in wine that SUBSCRIBE TO mostly come from the pulp, skin, seeds and stems of grapes are molecules that help preserve wine by absorbing oxygen. They are also responsible for structure, colour and ageing potential in red wines. Two key phenolics found in wine are tannin and anthocyanin.

PHYLLOXERA Tiny aphids (root lice) Nittardi Vineyards Courtesy Photo: that attack vitis vinifera roots. The disease was widespread in both Europe Amarone wines after their fermentation, for Earth, “terre”. and California during the late 19th activating a second fermentation, which century, and returned to California in the imparts a sweet, raisiny character into TROCKEN The German word for “dry” 1980s. There is no known cure at this the young wine while increasing alcohol and indicates dry wine. time. Vinifera vines are instead grafted content. on to native American rootstocks. TROCKENBEERENAUSLESE RISERVA Specific to regions, Wines made from grapes picked after this term acknowledges wines with both they are fully infected with noble rot. ...and get a bottle of QMP – QUALITÄTSWEIN MIT PRÄDIKAT German for a ‘quality higher alcohol levels and longer ageing The water has dried leaving behind wine with distinction’, a classification than the minimums stipulated by the more concentration. The wine produced based on the level of ripeness of the appellation laws. is golden and honeyed, high in alcohol grapes. The grapes must be picked as and lusciously sweet. The best quality specified by law and the wines cannot SAIGNÉE Meaning “bleeding” in French, is balanced by acidity and thus avoids have any added sugar. The six levels involves making rosé as a by-product of being cloyingly sweet. of QmP wines, starting with the driest red wine fermentation, where a portion La Réserve and harvested earliest, are Kabinett, of the pink juice from the grape must is UNION DES GRANDS CRUS DE Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, removed at an early stage, and fermented BORDEAUX An organisation comprising separately to produce rosé. 134 estates located in exalted Bordeaux from Grover Zampa Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese. appellations of the Gironde like Barsac, QUALITÄTSWEIN German for “quality SALMANAZAR An oversized bottle Graves, Médoc, Pessac-Léognan, wine.” A broad category encompassing holding nine litres, the equivalent of 12 Pomerol, Sauternes and Saint Emilion. the majority of . It includes regular bottles. QmP and QbA wines. In Austria, it is VARIETAL A varietal is a wine named TERM ISSUES PRICE the category between Landwein and STRUCTURE The interaction of for the dominant grape variety although Prädikatswein. elements such as acid, tannin, glycerin, other grape varieties may also be present One year 4 `1,000 alcohol and body as it relates to a wine’s in the wine. RACKING The practice of moving wine texture and mouthfeel. Usually preceded Two years 8 `2,000 by hose from one container to another, by a modifier, as in “firm structure” or VINTAGE The year the grapes were leaving sediment behind, for the purpose “lacking in structure”. grown and harvested of aeration or clarification. Three years 12 `3,000 SUR LIE (French for “on the lees”) Wines VITIS VINIFERA Classic European plus bottle of wine REMUAGE In sparkling wine production, aged sur lie are kept in contact with the winemaking species of grape. Examples a tedious process where each individual dead yeast cells and are not racked or include cabernet sauvignon and bottle is rotated and tilted very slightly otherwise filtered. This is mainly done chardonnay. There are many other over time so that the yeast is loosened for whites, to enrich them (it is a normal species of grapes such as Vitis Labrusca, and settles into the neck of the bottle. part of fermenting red wine, and so is not a North American grape species. noted). RIBOLLA GIALLA (ree-bohl-lah jah- VOLATILE ACIDITY Describes an lah) Ancient white variety from northern TANNINS Compounds that contribute excessive and undesirable amount of Italy, bordering Slovenia. Rarely seen to a wine’s structure, mouthfeel, and acidity, which gives a wine a slightly sour, HOW TO SUBSCRIBE elsewhere, wines are typically light in astringency. Tannins in wine are derived vinegary edge. At very low levels (0.1%), body and offer fruity, floral aromas, as from grape skins, seeds, and stems. The it is largely undetectable. At higher levels Visit: www.sommelierindia.com well as bright acidity. more contact the juice has with these it is considered a major defect. elements, the more tannic the wine. Or send your subscription form with a RIPASSO A traditional style in Italy’s YEAST Micro-organisms that produce cheque or demand draft to: TERROIR The overall environment the enzymes which convert sugar to Veneto region, where fresh, young Sommelier India Valpolicella wine is placed in contact with within which a given grape variety alcohol. Yeast is necessary for the the used lees and unpressed skins of grows. Derived from the French word fermentation of grape juice into wine. C-320, Defence Colony New Delhi - 110024 84 Sommelier INDIA JANUARY-MARCH 2020 SUBSCRIBE TO

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