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More wine is being sold Winemakers in Mumbai and beyond nurture nationally, Indian brands are en- tering the global arena and tour- asmall industry whose vintages are gaining ists, too, are setting off to visit local vineyards. acclaim despite only being around for a short time “Steadily the hotels are back on track and the wine industry is CAROLINE EDEN mangoes,” he says. “But it was when well-poised to get back to its dou- SPECIAL TO THE STAR Iexported table grapes to Europe ble-digit growth,” said Sumit NASHIK, INDIA—As well as a good nose that the idea struck me: If they are Jaiswal, marketing manager for for business, Lilo Gurnani is also in good enough to eat, then maybe Zampa Wines. “Wine tourism is possession of a fiendish sense of they would be good enough for catching on, but currently there humour, a vital quality for a man wine.” are very few wineries who have who has invested around $1.325 When asked how the wine scene CAROLINE EDEN PHOTOS FOR THE TORONTO STAR (ABOVE, BELOW) the set-up. There are some niche million of his own money into In- has evolved in India since he corked At Sula Vineyards, guests tourism companies who have dia’s newfangled wine industry. his first bottle in 2000, he enthusi- can stay at a villa after started a dedicated wine tourism “I asked a friend how to make mil- astically replies, “The market is still ment there is a three-bedroom villa enjoying wine tastings on itinerary and are marketing it lions in the wine industry” he says, small. Over a year we sell about close to the estate, but in the au- the property owned by well. In times to come there will pausing for effect, “he told me start what London polishes off on a good tumn this year our 20-room hotel Rajeev Samant. be many more.” with billions and you’ll end up with weekend, but it is growing. We pre- will open, which will include a small Zampa is in Nashik, in the state millions!” dict that every three years or so the spa offering wine treatments. Sula of Maharashtra, the region with Ichuckled but his son, Ravi Gur- market will double. The elite class attracts thousands of visitors by far the highest concentration nani, smartly dressed with designer has grown massively. Before, at par- throughout the year, some are in- of vineyards. It’s only a short trip spectacles, looked as though he’d ties and social events, wine used to ternational.” from Mumbai, which helps the heard the gag before. be in the corner. Now, if a decent With this, I decided it was time to tourism trade. Only a few thou- The Gurnanis, who own York wine is served it is drunk more than find out for myself. sand visitors have arrived since Winery, are not alone in their quest anything else.” The next morning as the 8:20 Zampa opened to the public last to bring Indian wine to the world- One such example of a good Indi- Pushpak Express pulls out of Mum- November, but Jaiswal said more wide arena. In the bustling, old cot- an wine is the Sula Rasa Shiraz bai’s chaotic Chhatrapati Shivaji are making the journey as news ton mills of South Mumbai, Rajeev 2007, winner of a silver medal this Terminus railway station. spreads of the wine trade’s Samant, a fellow wine trailblazer, year at the prestigious Syrah Du My fellow passengers are en- growth. runs Sula Vineyards. Belonging to Monde competition in France. grossed in newspapers or fast With good profits and a surge in wine’s newest new world, he is Samant says of the award-winning asleep. I, however, am far interest, it’s only natural that oth- young, charming, smart and exactly red: “It was clear that we had an too excited to doze, and in- er regions of India are trying to the kind of winemaker who gives exceptional lot. We produced 700 stead busy myself with en- produce wine too. Andhra Pra- wine traditionalists the heebie-jee- cases and it is, to date, the best wine visaging luscious vines desh, in the southeast, is a region bies. It was by chance he ended up to come out of India.” and the lazy afternoon to watch because it makes quality in the business when he returned to India is well known for spiritual ahead spent sipping table grapes. The same can is true India after studying engineering at tourism, beaches and desert es- Shiraz. of Karnataka in the southwest, Stanford University in California. capes. Could wine-tasting trips be Then, almost with- where a few wineries can be “I came back and my father had 20 added to the list, I ask? out warning, the found. But the prime region still acres of land for sale. I said to him, “The resort at the vineyard, Be- monsoon arrives. remains Maharashtra, due to an rather than sell it, let me try to work yond, is expanding to cope with de- established market and a near- with it. I grew teakwood, roses and mand,” Samant says. “At the mo- WINE continued on T12 perfect wine-growing climate. Book Now & SAVE! CIENFUEGOS • CUBA SANTIAGO DE CUBA VARADERO • CUBA HOLGUIN • CUBA Brisas Trinidad Del Mar 4# Carisol Los Corales 3# Brisas Del Caribe 4# Brisas Guardalavaca 4# Oct 29 • 1 week • All Inclusive Oct 31 • 1 week • All Inclusive Oct 31 • 1 week • All Inclusive Oct 30 • 1 week • All Inclusive

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Legendary Getaways Book Now and Save ON ON2 SATURDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2010 H TORONTO STAR H T13 TRAVEL Diners not sure what to make of sommeliers Continued from previous page other varieties. and to the glass-encased wine cellar Before leaving India, I stop to rest that holds no less than 1,200 bottles and the Gurnanis admit winning at the elegant Oberoi Hotel at of the finest wines. awards certainly helps to placate Mumbai’s Nariman Point. Recently Groves picks up a 1998 French the non-believers. reopened following the terror at- Cheval Blanc and says, “This is our “It’s been a tough journey so far to tacks of 2008, I am met by a gleam- most expensive wine, it sells for gain recognition, but we’re firmly in ing white lobby complemented by a around 104,000 rupees. That’s it for the long run,” Lilo says, before cherry red grand piano where the around $2,200 U.S.” adding that he hopes to break even notes of “Don’t Cry for Me Argenti- Lindsay, who has seven years ex- on their investment by 2013. na” drift into the whiteness. Sitting perience in the industry and first As night falls, I head to the Taj close by is 28-year-old sommelier tried Indian wine in London, is Gateway hotel with its elegant ser- Lindsay Groves, who left her home clearly keyed up about her new role. vice, good local wine list and old in Burlington, Ont., to join the “We stock Sula and Grover labels at colonial design. It dawns on me that group as India’s first foreign female our Indian restaurant Ziya. The na- Indian wine is not such a new phe- sommelier. ture of the cuisine there makes me nomenon. It has been slowly grow- When asked about how diners in- want to add more Indian wine la- ing for well over a decade, devel- teract with her, Groves says, “Din- bels — exotic ingredients need ver- oping its own style and refusing to ers here in Mumbai are not too sure satile wines, fruit-driven styles,” she simply copy more established mar- what to make of sommeliers just says. “It’s the new world wines that kets. Many grapes have been exper- yet. They take a little time to get work best.” imented with and now winemakers used to me hovering.” Caroline Eden is a freelance writer in cooler parts of India are experi- We walk over to Vetro, the hotel’s based in London. Her trip was sub- CAROLINE EDEN PHOTO FOR THE TORONTO STAR menting, too, with Pinot Noir and contemporary Italian restaurant, sidized by Jet Air. The York Wines Tasting Room in Nashik has a fine sense of style.

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