A $300M Payday Della Valle’s Golden Touch By Luisa Zargani MILAN — Christmas clearly comes more than once a year for Diego Della WWomen’s Wear Daily •W Thursday, December 16,D 2010• $3.00 Valle, chairman of Tod’s SpA. Having already made a paper profit of more than $180 million on his investment in Saks Inc., Della Valle, along with his brother Andrea, has just received more than $300 million from the sale of 10 percent of Tod’s shares. The brothers had asked ’s merchant bank Mediobanca to place just over three million shares of the luxury goods group on the market, which amounts to about 10 percent of Tod’s capital. WWD Italy’s Bourse said Wednesday that Men’s Mediobanca completed the operation at the price of 76 euros, or $101.90 at current exchange, a share, through an accelerated book-building offer. The operation netted the Della Valle Gentle brothers 232.5 million euros, or $311.7 million at current exchange. The Della Valle family remains the company’s largest shareholder after Spirit the placement, retaining almost/3 Tailored clothing manufacturers are banking TODAY on a fresh, modern take in Tremors suits and sport coats for fall Hit Tailored as they navigate through a Clothing/8 sea of challenges that include Men’s: Men’s tailored raw materials price hikes and apparel brands are uncertainties in production. worried over rising raw Here, Tommy Hilfiger’s wool materials prices and jacket, Boss Black’s wool capacity cuts in China, pants and Brooks Brothers’ but believe they can cotton shirt. Hackett tie and still grow sales in 2011 with updated looks and Robert Talbott tie bar. For more, new details. see pages 6 and 7. A Fast-Fashion Slowdown?/2 Retail: Despite reporting strong results, Inditex and H&M face growing worries over margin

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Loehmann’s to Exit Chapter 11/2 Financial: The retailer reaches agreement with creditors to exit bankruptcy on or before Feb. 18. PhoTo by DANIEL GARRIGA model: sam w/ford; grooming by anna bernabe for model: sam w/ford; grooming by 2 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2010 WWD.COM Margin Worries Rise for H&M, Inditex By Joelle Diderich Peter Farren, analyst at investment bank Bryan, Garnier & Co., said that although the results were PARIS — Fast-fashion retailers continued to thrive to be expected in light of a more difficult basis for in the run-up to the holiday season, but rising comparison in the fourth quarter, he would not rec- input costs threaten to pressure their margins ommend buying the stock for the next few months JuLy 12, 1972 heading into 2011, figures published Wednesday due to uncertainty over the gross margin in 2011. CASSINI ROYALE by market leaders Inditex SA and Hennes & “I think Inditex is better placed than H&M in wasn’t the only famous name Mauritz showed. terms of the gross margin because they source locally, in his family. His brother Igor was a major Spain’s Inditex, Europe’s largest clothing re- but that doesn’t mean they will be completely spared gossip columnist in the Fifties (under LA tailer and owner of the Zara chain, said net prof- by the rise in the price of raw materials,” he said. o the pseudonym Cholly Knickerbocker) MM

it rose 42 percent in the first nine months of its H&M, conversely, faces tougher prospects for e and a publicist who, in 1963, was indict- S e

2010 fiscal year as the group continued to rapidly its gross margin in the next two quarters, but is P ed for failing to register as a paid agent be expand in Asia and roll out its Zara online store likely to benefit from easier comparisons in terms for Dominican dictator . by across Europe. of like-for-like sales growth in the coming months, Nearly a decade later, WWD hunted him

Meanwhile, H&M reported that same-store Farren noted. hoto Igor Cassini down in Rome, where he was writing his sales rose 8 percent in November, the same month The Stockholm-based firm said that, including P memoir. “The Fifties were the most bril- its collaboration with French luxury label Lanvin new stores, November sales rose 17 percent, com- liant years in American history,” Igor Cassini told the paper in 1972. was introduced, helping to fuel a 5 percent in- pared with 13 percent in October. On the same basis, “The old rules do not apply any more to this world.” crease in sales for the financial year as a whole. total sales for the 2009-2010 financial year, which The younger Cassini also shared his thoughts on the current crop Inditex posted net profit of 1.18 billion euros, runs from Dec. 1 to Nov. 30, were up 15 percent, of socials. “In New York, the leaders are those Vogue and Bazaar or $1.55 billion, between Feb. 1 and Oct. 31. Sales compared with a 4 percent increase in 2008-2009. write about,” he said. “The real solid controllers of Paris society are totaled 8.87 billion euros, or $11.64 billion, up 14 As of Nov. 30, the Swedish fast-fashion retailer the Guy de Rothchilds, backed up by the entire Rothschild clan.” percent versus the same period last year. Dollar operated 2,206 stores, compared with 1,988 on In Rome, he added, those honors went to the Agnellis, Marella and figures are converted from euros at average ex- Nov. 30, 2009. Gianni. “[But] social life in the world, with the exception of a few peo- change rates for the period in question. Inditex continued its rapid pace of store ex- ple who live in great mansions with many servants and lots of money, The gross margin stood at 59.9 percent of sales, pansion during the nine-month period, with 300 has lost its significance….Today it’s a person who has been noticed by up from 57.1 percent in the first nine months of fis- new units in 45 countries under its various ban- a newspaper or glossy magazine, a person in the right spot with the cal 2009. Store sales in local currencies climbed 10 ners, including Zara, Massimo Dutti, Bershka, right people. So really society is a bad term to define these people. percent year-on-year be- Stradivarius and It’s really an old-fashioned term which is no longer right for this life.” tween Aug. 1 and Dec. 12. Pull&Bear. As of Oct. 31, And what of his thoughts on Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, whom Analysts said the fig- it operated 4,907 stores his brother famously dressed? “It was my suggestion for Oleg to be- ures were broadly in in 77 countries. come the official White House designer,” Cassini said. “In the begin- line with expectations, This included 140 ning, Jackie looked naïve. After, she became queenly. But she has although, based on the stores in China and 63 in always been attracted by fame and fortune….I must say that she is available data, they Japan, where Bershka is one of the most ambitious people I have ever met.” —Venessa Lau calculated that sales set to arrive next year growth slowed some- with a flagship store in what during the first the Shibuya neighbor- six weeks of the fiscal hood of Tokyo. Massimo Loehmann’s in Bankruptcy Exit Deal fourth quarter. Duti recently opened its “We think this num- first two stores in South By Alexandra Steigrad ber is very satisfacto- Korea, where Zara al- r y,” said Marcos López, ready has 27 stores. LOEHMANN’S THINKS ITS SECOND TOUR OF BANKRUPTCY capital markets direc- “If you assume a can be wrapped up in a little over 90 days. tor of Inditex. “We have range of between 8 to 10 Loehmann’s Capital Corp. said Wednesday that it would exit still ahead of us the percent space growth in Chapter 11 on or before Feb. 18, after it reached an agreement Christmas season and The new Zara unit on Via del Corso in Rome. the case of Zara, at least with unsecured creditors. after Christmas, so I 50 percent of that will Through a rights offering to the firm’s senior secured Class would say that at this point in time, I believe that take place in Asia,” said Isla. A note holders, the retailer will receive a $25 million capital in- 10 percent sales growth in local currencies is a Inditex last week unveiled its 5,000th store, fusion upon emerging from Chapter 11. Under the terms of the very reasonable one.” a Zara unit in Rome that it has designated as a agreement, general unsecured creditors will obtain a pro rata Inditex deputy chairman and chief executive benchmark for the company’s plan to make all distribution consisting of $2 million in cash. officer Pablo Isla noted the exceptional factors stores eco-efficient by 2020. According to the company, this proposed restructuring plan that fueled gross margin growth in the first half of The retailer introduced online shopping for “should pave the way for an expedited Chapter 11 process.” 2010 — including inventory management, sourcing Zara in six European countries in September, mak- Loehmann’s, a New York-based off-price chain founded 89 years proximity and a positive currency impact — were ing the service available in five additional coun- ago, filed a voluntary prepackaged Chapter 11 petition in set to fall away in the second half. tries in November. “We are very satisfied with cus- bankruptcy court on Nov. 15. Recently, it reached an agreement with “It is evident that there is some cost inflation tomer reception to our online offer,” Isla said. Whippoorwill Associates Inc., which owns 70 percent of the senior regarding raw materials, regarding wages in some In 2011, zara.com is scheduled to be launched notes, and equity sponsor Istithmar World that would substantially countries, particularly China. At the same time… in the and Japan, while the reduce the retailer’s debt and recapitalize its balance sheet, conform- because of our business model, because of our first Zara stores will open in South Africa and ing strongly to the outline offered at the time of its bankruptcy filing. sourcing in proximity, because of the long-term Australia. Loehmann’s also secured court approval for $33 million re- relationships that we have with our suppliers, we Luca Solca, an analyst at Bernstein Research volving credit with Crystal Financial LLC for post-petition financ- are less exposed,” he said. in London, said the results from both companies ing and an additional $7 million junior facility by Whippoorwill, Inditex manufactures half its products in the confirmed their fast-growth trajectory. which will be made immediately available to the company. Eurozone, allowing the company to respond rap- “Growth is bound to become rarer in a muddle- The retailer added that the $7 million would allow it to begin idly to spikes in demand for high-turning products through macroeconomic environment, and there- buying spring inventory, reserve inventory and products manu- and helping to keep inventories lean. fore more expensive. Mass fashion players such as factured specifically for the brand. Isla declined to comment on the gross mar- Inditex and H&M are bound to benefit from this, “With these capital commitments, Loehmann’s will have suf- gin outlook for 2011, saying the issue would be as they can provide above-average growth by con- ficient liquidity and the financial flexibility to fund daily opera- addressed when the group, based in Arteixo in tinuing to increase space worldwide,” he said. tions without interruption,” the company said. northwest Spain, publishes full-year results next Inditex shares closed down 5.54 percent at 59 The store also filed for bankruptcy protection in May 1999, ex- March. However, he said Inditex planned to keep euros, or $79.11, while H&M shares were down ited bankruptcy in October 2000 and was acquired by Istithmar prices stable in 2011. 2.04 percent at 239.50 Swedish kronor, or $35.18. in July 2006.

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Photo by WWD.com/business-news. OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2010 3 Diego Della Valle (below) and his brother WWD.COM Andrea made more than $300 million from selling 10 percent of Tod’s shares. House Passes Trade Bill By Kristi Ellis WASHINGTON — The House passed an omnibus trade bill Wednesday that would extend two expiring trade pref- erence programs and continue funding levels for wool fabric and yarn spinners. The House passed the multifaceted trade legislation by an expedited process that requires the support of two- thirds of lawmakers to advance. Industry groups saw the House passage as a big step, but some were disappointed that lawmakers dropped at the last minute a provision that would have reinstated duty breaks for U.S. cotton shirt, yarn and fabric producers. The bill’s prospects were less clear in the Senate, which is considering an omnibus spending bill to fund government agencies before Congress adjourns for the year. The trade bill, introduced by Rep. Sander Levin (D., Mich.), the outgoing chairman of the House Ways and Means Committee, would renew two trade preference programs important to the fashion industry that were set to expire at the end of the year. The bill provides for an 18-month extension of both a preference program of duty free benefi ts for four Andean countries and the Generalized System of Preferences, which provides duty Della Valles Net $300M From Tod’s Share Sale free benefi ts to 131 designated countries covering about 4,800 products. Continued from page one [motorcycle fi rm] Piaggio and [iconic coffee-machine 58 percent of the Italian fi rm, parent to the Tod’s, maker] Bialetti.” Hogan, Fay and Roger Vivier brands. Andrea Della Della Valle initially took 5.9 percent of Saks Inc. in Valle is vice chairman of the group. 2009, and in October, he raised his stake to 19.1 per- “We have been receiving indications from the market cent, becoming its largest shareholder. Based on Saks’ Kimmel to Shift as Jones Chairman for some time to increase the liquidity of our shares in closing share price of $11.45 on Wednesday, Della SIDNEY KIMMEL, FOUNDER OF THE JONES GROUP order to facilitate the investments of primary investors, Valle’s investments in Saks — totaling $170.3 million Inc., will move to the post of non-executive chairman of who are often limited by a restricted free fl oat,” said for 30.7 million shares — are now worth $350.9 million, the company from his current post as executive chairman Diego Della Valle. “We have therefore tried to follow the translating into a profi t-on-paper of $180.6 million. on Jan. 1, as Jones completes its 40th year in business. investors’ requests, even if this means we have had to The entrepreneur also has personal investments To commemorate Kimmel’s service, the company will temporarily sacrifi ce the value of our investment.” that include RCS MediaGroup, which owns the donate $6 million to the Sidney Kimmel Comprehensive Della Valle touted the company’s “good performanc- newspaper Corriere della Sera; furniture producer Cancer Center at Johns Hopkins in Baltimore and $2 mil- es” and the interest it generates in the fi nancial markets. Poltrona Frau; fi lm studio Cinecittà, and the city of lion to establish a trust for post-secondary educational as- The entrepreneur also noted that the sale precedes Florence’s soccer team, Fiorentina. sistance for qualifying children of company personnel. The Tod’s entrance in the FTSE MIB index, the primary bench- Citigroup senior equity analyst Thomas Chauvet trust will be administered by an independent third party. mark index for the Italian equity market, on Dec. 20, said the Tod’s share sale was “not a major sur- Kimmel established the Sidney Kimmel Foundation and expressed “regret that many investors prise,” as Della Valle had “suggested in in 1993. The philanthropic group and its cancer research were not able to buy the shares, since the recent years his desire to increase li- subsidiary since have donated more than $550 million to demand was higher than the offer.” quidity of the stock,” and that the cancer research. Gianluca Pacini, luxury goods brothers had raised their stake Jones changed its name from The Jones Apparel analyst at Intesa Sanpaolo, said in 2008 and 2009 “at an average Group in October. Kimmel founded the company as part the FTSE MIB index “allows price of 38.1 euros [ $51].” of W.R. Grace and purchased it in 1975, taking it public in greater visibility with those Also, Chauvet noted that 1990. He founded Sidney Kimmel Entertainment, a fi lm investors that manage larger Della Valle “might be looking production company, in 2004, two years after stepping portfolios.” Also, Pacini ex- at investment opportunities down as Jones’ chief executive offi cer. plained that a greater li- outside of the family busi- — Arnold J. Karr quidity allows “faster nego- ness.” Chauvet continued: tiations,” which is an added “According to the 13-D fi fi ling value for investors. from 21 Oct. 2010 [regarding MEMO PAD The company detailed the Saks Inc.], Diego Della Valle BYE TO THE TIMES: In a surprising move, New York Times sale of the shares: The entre- acquired the shares for invest- op-ed page editor David Shipley is leaving the paper and preneur’s vehicle Diego Della ment purposes,” but he may heading to Bloomberg. Valle & C. S.a.p.a. sold 6.08 “change plans and intentions at “It’s too bad. David is great,” said editorial page editor percent, and Diego and Andrea any time,” including acquiring ad- Andy Rosenthal. Della Valle each sold 1.96 percent ditional securities or becoming stra- While no search for a successor has begun, Rosenthal said of the group’s share capital. The set- tegic and long-term shareholders of he was in talks with Shipley about the move for some time. tlement is expected on Dec. 20. SKS (and seeking board representation), “I’ve been working with David for a long time,” he said. As a result, the free fl oat increased from among other possible actions.” Although he “We worked here and on the national desk. I think he’s one about 33 percent to about 43 percent of the fi rm’s has been reserved about his future intentions at of the best editors that has worked for us. He runs a fabulous total outstanding shares. Saks, Della Valle has indicated he might seek repre- op-ed page. He is smart. He is a good leader. He has been “This was a well-thought-out placement, built sentation on the company’s board. really creative, and we’ve expanded our online presence deliberately, one that Della Valle must have had on On Wednesday, Tod’s shares closed at 76.51 euros, enormously, and he’s overseen that. I’m sorry to see him go.” his mind for a long time,” said a luxury goods ana- or $102.60, down 8.92 percent. The move certainly wasn’t a welcome bit of news for lyst who spoke on condition of anonymity and who “The market balances itself out, and the price is in Times staffers — Shipley was extremely well liked. compared this placement to a similar one in 2002. “In line,” said Pacini. “Given the number of shares that “David is about as compassionate and humane a boss as April that year, Della Valle sold almost 10 percent of were placed, a balance price was found,” said a Milan- anyone could ever hope to have,” e-mailed Mark Lotto, a staff his shares, at 53 euros [$50 at average exchange], the based analyst. “Automatically, the stock price adapted editor at the op-ed page. “And he has the most remarkable historical peak at the time, a price that was recov- to the price of the bookbuilding.” clarity of thought: He can see the best way into every idea, ered only at the end of 2006. He is extremely savvy, Tod’s has been forging ahead despite the economy. whether it should be explored in a long essay or a short one, he knows how to build his company, but has also a In the fi rst nine months of the year, sales across all cat- written by a novelist or a scientist, whether it should inspire a razor-sharp fi nancial mind,” the analyst said. egories and markets helped lift the company’s earnings piece of art or be broken down into a chart.” On Tuesday, Tod’s shares closed at 84 euros, or before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization Shipley, who’s held the job of op-ed page editor since $112.60 —another record high. (EBITDA) 20.4 percent to 157.4 million euros, or $207.7 2003, oversaw writing and design from guest contributors. In addition to this latest placement, in October million at average exchange. Consolidated sales rose He was also instrumental in shaping the Times’ editorial Tod’s distributed an extra dividend of 3.50 euros, or 8.9 percent to 609.1 million euros, or $804 million, in the online presence — fi nding writers (Stanley Fish, Tim Egan, $4.60 at current exchange, a share, for a total amount nine months ended Sept. 30, compared to the same pe- Dick Cavett), overseeing the blogs and ginning up the ideas. of 107.1 million euros, or $143.6 million, so the analyst riod last year. In particular, the Tod’s brand registered Shipley’s new job teams him up with former State Department calculated that Della Valle secured about 70 million 15.5 percent growth in the third quarter, driven by the staffer James Rubin. They’ll be in charge of running editorials at euros, or $93.8 million, pretax, to further bolster his success of the fall-winter season. Bloomberg for something being called Bloomberg View. bank balance. This year, Della Valle emerged as an “ambassa- Though Shipley’s job at the Times largely concentrated His wealth was even further boosted last month dor” of Italy’s heritage and craftsmanship, bringing on fi nding writers and brainstorming ideas, in his new role when Della Valle, whose family bought Tod’s Tokyo the country’s symbol of culture, the La Scala theater, he will mostly oversee unsigned editorials. Shipley will Omotesando headquarters and store in 2005 and then to Asia and, subsequently, to and the Middle concentrate on editorials regarding the United States and rented out the spaces to the company, cashed in on East. In a unique partnership, he has agreed to con- Canada; Rubin will work on foreign policy. They will start this investment. Tod’s bought the venue from Della tribute to support La Scala’s productions for a year in January, a spokesman said. Bloomberg View will be text- Valle for 63 million euros, or $84.4 million. and help promote its values globally. based and carried over a variety of platforms. “Where will all this money be channeled into? Earlier this month, Della Valle offered to fi nance the Meanwhile, the Times will have to start a search for a This is the real question,” said the analyst. “Yes, it restoration of one of Italy’s most grandiose monuments, replacement for a very big job. could be into Saks, but let’s not forget that Della Valle the Colosseum, to the tune of 25 million euros, or $33.5 “I hope the announcement will generate a lot of has diversifi ed his business interests between the million. The entrepreneur is awaiting the approval of volunteers,” said Rosenthal. “I want somebody who is [high-speed] train venture with [ president] his proposal by the country’s Ministry of Culture. creative and thinks broadly and is a really good line editor Luca di Montezemolo, [eyewear maker] Marcolin, — With contributions from A.J.K., New York and is a good manager.” — John Koblin 4 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2010 WWD.COM

David Lauren with fi ancée Lauren Bush in Ralph NAMING RIGHT Lauren. FEED PROJECTS CO-FOUNDER LAUREN BUSH WAS THE unchallenged belle of the ball at the charity’s third-annual fund-raiser at the Urban Zen Center Tuesday night. Bush was constantly besieged by a thick circle of friends and well-wishers, most of whom pointedly admired her most recent accessory: a large diamond solitaire engagement ring that matched her aptly chosen diamanté Ralph Lauren dress. Whether or not Bush’s beau, David Lauren, had something to do with his fi ancée’s sartorial selection, he defi nitely had a spring in his step. He posed for photographers with one arm brandishing a Feed canvas bag and the other around Bush’s waist. His grin reached practically from ear-to-ear. Of course, since news of the long-dating pair’s engagement got out last weekend, there’s been one question weighing heavily on a certain subset of New York minds: Is she going to go by Lauren Lauren? Bush’s mother, Sharon, laughed at the thought. Donna Karan “I’d think not…you’d have to ask her,” she said. “Maybe a with Alexandra hyphenate?” Wilkis Wilson of So, does Lauren Bush-Lauren carry more appeal than Gilt Groupe. Lauren squared for the bride to be? “We’re talking about it,” the model-turned-philanthropist said through a grin. “Maybe I could just be ‘Lauren,’ like Patrick Madonna.” Robinson Partygoers with less pressing concerns included Mark Seliger, Cynthia Rowley, Donna Karan, Zani Gugelmann and Amanda Hearst. Patrick Robinson and Sam Talbot chatted in the glow cast by an enormous, light-spangled Christmas tree. Elsewhere, vibrantly colored sarongs, sundresses and beachy jewelry taunted heavily bundled guests, who had stepped inside from the decidedly colder climes of the West Village streets only to be confronted with large- scale photographs of Haitian children on the beach. Marc Baptiste, the lensman behind the works, was also on hand. The party-cum-market, co-sponsored by Karan’s Urban Zen Foundation and Gilt City, offered everything from much-needed woolen accessories to jellies, jams and jewelry. The whole fete had the endearing air of a neighborhood Christmas market, though perhaps with more sequined-strewn shoppers than one might expect in other zip codes. “It’s come such a long way,” Sharon Bush said of her daughter’s organization as she motioned toward the tables of vendors and cocktail waiters circulating trays of canapés. “[For] Lauren’s fi rst Feed-raiser, we baked cookies for her to pass out.”

EYE SCOOP IU RIT S AMFAR WILL CELEBRATE 25 YEARS OF EXISTENCE NEXT U year and is getting presidential for its silver anniversary. A The charity said this week that it will honor former

M president Bill Clinton, as well as Elizabeth Taylor and Diane von Furstenberg, at its yearly New York Gala in February. All three will receive the AIDS foundation’s Award of Courage. “Each of these honorees has made vital and distinctive contributions to the global struggle against HIV/AIDS,” 0 01 said amfAR chairman Kenneth Cole. “We are enormously 2 proud to be able to pay tribute to such exceptional and compassionate humanitarians.” Mark Twain said, “God fi rst made Mauritius, and from it The annual black-tie affair, sponsored by , is set created Paradise.” On the map, Mauritius is a speck off Cynthia Rowley for Feb. 9 at Cipriani Wall Street, and all three honorees the coast of Madagascar. In person, it’s like the Big Island with daughter Gigi. are scheduled to attend. of Hawaii, but where everyone speaks Creole. On the way there, my family and I had a layover in Dubai, which gave Diane von us three power hours of sightseeing, including the tallest Furstenberg building in the world — the Burj Khalifa — which houses and Bill the largest aquarium in the world inside the biggest mall in Clinton in the world. (How’s that for superlatives?) Once in Mauritius, it April. was a total escape. The country is a mix of African and Asian cultures, and there were absolutely no other Americans at The Oberoi resort, where we stayed. Our villa overlooked the Indian Ocean and was bordered by gardens and banyan trees. It embodied the sophistication of St. Barth’s mixed with the exoticism of Bali. Think curry pancakes with homemade pineapple jam for breakfast. I’ve never been an expert at relaxing, but this trip changed the way I think about vacations. It was the kind of hotel where you never feel the need to leave. Waterskiing on demand, scuba diving with dolphins and tennis were all on the agenda, as was STEVE EICHNER live Sega music on the beach at night. We took a couple of excursions, one to a safari, where the living animal prints and ostrich feathers served as my only reminder of the fashion I’d left half a world away.

Editor’s Note: Designer Cynthia Rowley recently traveled to Mauritius. FEED PROJECTS AND CLINTON PHOTOS BY gAme chANger

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Joe by Joseph Abboud’s wool jacket, Hart Schaffner Marx’s wool pants and Isaia’s cotton shirt. Steven Alan tie; Jan Leslie tie bar; Dunhill gloves; Brunello DKNY’s wool jacket Cucinelli belt; Imperial and pants and Boss pocket square. Black’s cotton shirt. Hackett tie; Robert Talbott tie bar; belt; Imperial pocket square.

After seasons of sleek and late-Fifties-inspired suiting, a shift in aesthetics has tailored clothing manufacturers using fabrics with more body and pattern. For fall 2011, tweeds, herringbones, plaids and flannels are the sartorial choices that allow for a classic British style revival. — Alex Badia WWD, thursDay, December 16, 2010 7 WWD.COM WWD Men’s P o H s K or w

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Ben Sherman’s wool jacket, anna bernabe for John Varvatos’ wool pants Isaia’s wool suit and Hickey and Calvin Klein’s cotton Freeman’s cotton shirt. Perry Ellis’ wool jacket, Oxxford’s wool shirt. Polo Ralph Lauren tie; Canali tie; Tateossian tie pants, Kenneth Cole’s wool coat and Paul Stuart tie bar; Thomas bar; Cire glove; Brunello Gitman Gold’s cotton shirt. Hackett tie; Pink pocket square. Cucinelli belt. Tateossian tie bar; Thomas Pink belt. model: sam w/ford; grooming by 8 WWD, thursDay, December 16, 2010 North Face Eyes $3B in Sales Men’s Tailoring

By Alexandra Steigrad nearly 25 percent of revenues by 2015. The five-year plan also calls for north Face’s VF CorP. PlAns To More ThAn douBle Americas business to double to $1.5 billion. The The north Face’s volume to $3 billion in the next company’s global direct-to-consumer platform Tailored Clothing Market in State of Flux five years. will increase by more than $400 million. its The strategy, which would add $1.6 billion to europe, Middle east and Africa wholesale busi- its current sales of $1.4 billion by 2015, is built ness will achieve sales of more than $570 million, on reaching new customers by broadening cat- while Asia-Pacific wholesale sales, led by China, egory offerings, driving growth in foreign mar- will total just under $300 million. The company kets, expanding the direct business and in- vesting in technology. At an investor con- ference in new york Wednesday, steve rendle, president of north Face and VF’s outdoor Americas unit, said, “north Face is one of a handful of brands that has the permission to extend beyond what it began as.” The business is ex- pected to reach $1.4 bil- lion in sales by the end of 2010, or 18.4 percent of VF’s anticipated $7.6 billion in revenue for the year. in order to reach its sales goals, the san leandro, Calif.-based North Face will be increasing north Face said it would its offering of performance restructure, moving from and active sports merchandise. a “classification-driven” brand to an “activity- driven” model, by increasing the offering of per- expects expansive growth in China, making the formance and active sports merchandise. country “one of the biggest markets for The north Currently north Face’s action and perfor- Face globally in a relatively short period of time.” mance divisions represent about 9 percent and “in 2010, VF’s outdoor and action-sports co- 3 percent of sales, respectively, while outdoor alition will comprise more than 40 percent of equals 80 percent. VF’s total revenues, and we expect these will These two divisions, which comprise gear continue to be our fastest-growing businesses for alpine sports, hiking, climbing, running and over the coming years,” said VF chairman and yoga, is expected to grow to roughly $620 million chief executive officer eric Wiseman. “The in five years, with performance sales increasing power and potential of The north Face brand more than fivefold to $220 million, and action will be a key driver of our growth.” sales tripling to $400 million. last year, the coalition was responsible for north Face said that the youth business, $2.75 billion in sales, 38.1 percent of corporate which represents about 7 percent of sales, would revenues. double in size over that period. e-commerce, Greensboro, n.C.-based VF operates more which the company said has shown “unprec- than 30 brands, including Wrangler, lee, edented growth,” is anticipated to expand to nautica, eastpak and seven For All Mankind. A suit from Hart Schaffner Report: Child, Forced Labor Still Global Problem Marx. By Kristi Ellis Zimbabwe, Angola, Guinea and sierra leone. By Jean E. Palmieri Wurtzburger said the price The names of u.s. companies and their for- of worsted wool has risen WASHINGTON — despite stepped-up efforts by the eign factories where child and forced labor vio- “The indusTry is in Tur- $1.30 to $2.50 a meter, while u.s. department of labor to pressure countries lations were said to have been found were not moil.” That was the assess- polyester/viscose is up 45 to stop child and forced labor around the world, released in the report. labor rights advocates ment of ronny Wurtzburger, cents to 65 cents. the problem remains significant in several key and government officials pointed to an overall president of Peerless Clothing “The biggest problem we countries making apparel, footwear and textiles. reduction in child labor problems worldwide as international, as he addressed have is how to service a cus- in one of three child labor reports released a sign that their efforts are having an impact. the outlook for the tailored tomer [retailer] who has been Wednesday, there was little improvement seen in According to the international labour clothing industry next year. selling product at the same several previously cited countries in the use of organization, research shows that child labor Price increases on cotton, price for nine years,” he added. child and forced labor in apparel and footwear has decreased by 3 percent worldwide from wool and polyester, coupled “Prices have only been going manufacturing, the cultivation of cotton and 2004 to 2008, with a 10 percent decrease in chil- with a decrease in production down, but we just can’t absorb the mining of gold and diamonds. The majority dren performing hazardous work, the labor capacity in factories overseas, is the increases anymore.” of countries were repeat offenders on the 2010 department report noted. expected to add $10 to $20 to the Ammeen is projecting that list and agency officials said they added six new “At least in one instance, with the products wholesale cost of most suits by wholesale prices of suits and products, including sapphires, allegedly being and countries put on this list, some private sec- fall 2011, he said. sport coats will rise 10 to 15 per- made or mined with child or forced labor, and tor companies actually came to us and asked Additionally, the economic cent by fall. “All of the ingredi- 12 new countries, bringing the total to 128 goods what they could do to get off the list,” said sen. uncertainty that still lingers in ents in the garments are going from 70 countries. Tom harkin, chairman of the senate health, the u.s. continues to impact up in price,” he said. “But we China, india, Jordan, Argentina, Malaysia education and labor & Pensions Committee, manufacturers and retailers don’t have inflation at the coun- and Thailand were named for alleged use at a press conference. “That is moving in the seeking to boost sales. “Tailored ter. We only have inflation at the of child and forced labor in the apparel in- right direction.” clothing is necessary but not wholesale level. The pipeline’s dustry. China, Bangladesh, Brazil, india and in a second labor department report on crucial,” said Jim Ammeen, going to burst, and the question indonesia were cited for alleged violations in the “worst forms of child labor,” in u.s. trade president and chief executive is whether we can pass it along.” footwear manufacturing. beneficiary countries, india was the only coun- officer of neema Clothing. “it’s a Most retailers are already These same countries were named for al- try cited for problems in the apparel industry, postponable purchase.” anticipating the hikes. in its leged use of child and forced labor in apparel but indonesia and Bangladesh were named for despite the challenges, manu- third-quarter earnings call ear- and footwear manufacturing in the 2009 report. problems in the textile industry. Bangladesh facturers believe that by offering lier this month, neal Black, Alleged violations in cotton production and Turkey were listed for using child labor fresh fabrics, silhouettes and de- ceo of Jos. A. Bank, said: “We were cited in 17 countries, ranging from China, in the leather goods sector. Countries cited tailing, men will be stimulated to are now seeing significant cost Pakistan, Kazakhstan and uzbekistan in Asia for child labor in the production of footwear add to their wardrobes next year. price inflation late in 2011, par- to south American nations such as Brazil and included Argentina, india, indonesia and “Buying piece goods for next ticularly in raw materials such Argentina. The reported use of child and slave Turkey. Countries with problems in the cot- season is like playing the stock as cotton and wool, with cotton labor in mining gold was cited in 17 countries, ton industry in the second report included market,” said Wurtzburger. “you prices being the most problem- ranging from Bolivia, Colombia and ecuador in Colombia, egypt, Ghana, Kazakhstan, Kenya, call for a price every day, and atic. ultimately, all retailers are south America to niger, Ghana, Guinea and Mali Madagascar, Mali, Peru, Turkey, uzbekistan, every day it’s different. if it were in the same boat and…the result in sub-saharan Africa. Problems with diamond Zambia and Zimbabwe. the stock market, we’d be happy, will be ticket-price increases in mining were found in seven countries, including — With contributions from Liza Casabona because it’s only going up.” 2011.” The company projected WWD, thursDay, December 16, 2010 9 WWD.COM Men’s Tailoring Tailored Clothing Market in State of Flux

prices will rise in the single-digit range. finishes and softly constructed coats. such as trims and pocket treatments and they should be,” Abboud said. “It’s about Men’s Wearhouse also is poised for Reinvention is also the name of the new fabrics,” Abboud said. getting guys to buy vested suits with hack- price increases. In its third-quarter call game at the HMX Group. Joseph Abboud, To that point, he said HMX will intro- ing pockets, double-breasteds, peak lapels. last week, president Doug Ewert said: president and chief creative officer for duce a new “raw cashmere” fabric, de- These new models are subtle and not ‘in “We are experiencing cost increases for the company, said 2011 will be the year veloped in cooperation with , your face.’ But they offer a lot of details.” the third quarter of 2011 deliveries in the of “creative courage” for manufacturers that will provide “the ultimate in rugged Abboud said he also created a Best low-single digits to low-double-digit range and retailers. By stepping out of the box, luxury. It’s light in color but it’s not safe,” of Britain subcategory for Hickey on select product categories. We have a HMX has seen bookings increase in the he said, noting that the brand will offer Freeman offering heavy, rich fabrics few levers to help mitigate the impact on mid-double digits over last year, he said. raw cashmere knitwear, as well, to create from Scotland. “They’re heavy, but we’re our margins, including shifting the bal- “Let’s get back to understanding the a comprehensive program. Additionally, not defensive about it,” he said. For ance between designer brand and private beauty within men’s tailored clothing. It fabrics with a “blown finish” that provide Hart Schaffner Marx, Abboud is offering branded businesses, counter-sourcing has gotten so homogenized, but there’s “a more sweatery feel” will be used for more washed corduroys and moleskins, with alternative mills and factories, con- a chance for retailers to turn on the tai- soft, unconstructed sport coats. things that “don’t fit into traditional tai- solidating our suppliers and by selectively lored customer with new models, details “These [moves] are aggressive, and lored clothing.” raising our retail prices. It’s our strategy to pull on each of those levers in moderation.” Wurtzburger said in addi- tion to raw material costs, many manufacturers are losing 15 to 25 percent of their production capacity in Chinese facilities as plants there turn their at- tention to producing goods for their own growing consumer base. “They’re working more for China and less for the world.” This is also curtailing the ability of manufacturers to pro- vide department and specialty stores with fancy models. “In the past, a store could test 300 units of a fancy fabric, but now the Chinese factory wants 1,000 to 2,000 units,” he said. Adding to the problem is retailers are hesitant to place orders far in advance, leav- ing manufacturers in a posi- tion where they will have to scramble to fill orders. “We buy against orders,” Ammeen said, “but no one wants to own goods 12 months out.” Nevertheless, both Ammeen and Wurtzburger believe vendors who find a way to produce “inter- esting” items will be successful next year. “I have a strong feeling about vested clothing, and peak lapels will play a stronger role,” Wurtzburger said. Prices have “only been going down, but we just can’t absorb the increases anymore. — Ronny” Wurtzburger, Peerless Clothing International

In addition, the sport coat business in stores is excellent and that’s not effected as much by the price increases. Lamb’s wool will be popular, and the trendy military styling seen first in designer collections is now “trickling down to the masses,” he said. Ammeen said his company will offer “exciting fashion, modern fit and a more flattering silhouette, something they don’t have in their wardrobe.” The company’s hybrid jackets from Kroon, which meld sports- wear styling with tailored con- struction, continue to perform, he said, as do the reinvented Haspel collection, which is offer- ing a new premium collection for fall with brushed cottons, washed 10 WWD, thursDay, December 16, 2010 WWD.COM

Adam Reem Acra

Luca Luca Cocktails, Anyone? That’s the invitation from a trio of designers who for pre- fall each showed variations on the T-shirt cocktail dress. At Adam, Adam Lippes opted for a sequined frock bedecked with necklacelike embroidery, and Reem Acra also went for the shiny stuff on a beaded version with cutout shoulders. At Luca Luca, Raul Melgoza was inspired by a Sixties Faye Dunaway for his chic boatneck number. n e ericks See more looks from the pre-fall and kyle collections at WWD.com/fashion-

shows-reviews. john aquino by Photos WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2010 11 WWD.COM BEAUTY BEAT Bangladesh Factory to Reopen Saturday By Jahir U. Ahmed floor of the building due to excessive heat, forc- ing the authorities to summon army personnel Flirt Taps Heather Morris of ‘Glee’ DHAKA, Bangladesh — Production at a sportswear who tried to rescue the trapped workers, mostly factory here where at least 31 apparel workers females, with their helicopters. Many were seen FlIrT HAS SIGNED “GlEE” STAr Heather were killed and 200 seriously injured on Tuesday jumping from the building to escape the fire. Heather Morris as its Flirt ambassador. Morris will resume on Saturday, senior officials of the Authorities of a number of garment factories Morris, who plays cheerleader factory said Wednesday, while the government adjacent to the Ha-Meem Group suspended pro- Brittany Pierce on the popular Fox TV investigates the cause of the blaze and inspects duction for the day to speed up rescue activities. sitcom, will hold the ambassador spot safety systems. The fire service continued working until mid- through next fall. When the workers came to the 11-story Ha- night to douse the flames and rescue the trapped age

The strategy, originated in 2004, is iM Meem Group plant Wednesday morning, authori- workers from the burning factory. intended to match up-and-coming stars ties said it would be closed through Friday. The In 2009, Ha-Meem’s factory was torched by with the brand, which is owned by the factory is located in Ashulia, an apparel industry workers over demands for increased wages. an/Wire Estée lauder Cos. Inc.’s BeautyBank di- D cluster near the Bangladesh capital of Dhaka. In Ha-Meem Group is one of the leading export vision. Past ambassadors have included the wake of the blaze, local trade unionists were manufacturers, with several factories and Michelle Branch, Mila Kunis, Serena MacMe critical of the plant’s lack of proper maintenance about 24,000 employees. It caters to buyers

Williams and Vanessa Minnillo. Dan of safety and emergency exits. from Europe, North America and Asia-Pacific. According to Morris, the partnership by Minister for Home Affairs Shahara Khatun Ha-Meem’s owner, A.K. Azad, is an influential works on many levels. “Brittany is the big- said an electrical short circuit may have been business figure and president of the Bangladesh gest flirt on “Glee,” so there’s that — not to photo the culprit. Fires in Bangladesh garment facto- Federation of Chambers of Commerce and mention I’m obsessed with the Flirt makeup,” she said, naming a lip ries are common due to substandard electrical Industries. The factory’s customers include color named Tootsie as her favorite. wiring, killing annually scores of workers who Wal-Mart, H&M, Next, J.C. Penney, Kohl’s, Gap, “Heather is a perfect fit for the Flirt brand,” said Julie Howard, toil 12 to 14 hours a day in poor working condi- Wrangler, Squeeze, Sears, Target, Charming senior vice president of global marketing and brand development tions for less than $50 a month. Shoppes, Carrefour, Inditex, Miss Etam, Migros for BeautyBank. “She’s fun, playful, young and talented.” Neither the Ha-Meem authorities nor the and Celio. Morris’ first duties will be to promote All That lash, a new mas- Bangladesh government could confirm the total The Clean Clothes Campaign, an alliance cara the brand will launch in February, and luv-a-licious, a scent number of deaths. of garment workers’ safety watchdog organiza- that is set for an April launch. Morris will do in-store appearances When the fire broke out in the finishing tions in 15 European countries, alleged that Ha- and host an online contest to find a performer to appear in an on- section of the ninth floor at around 1 p.m. on Meem has a “dubious labor-rights track record.” line viral video for the brand. The contest will go live in February Tuesday, about 6,000 workers were engaged in The company is known for “unauthorized sub- with the launch of All That lash, and a winner will be announced in production activities, said Ha-Meem’s deputy contracting, meaning the factory may have also April to coincide with the launch of luv-a-licious. managing director, Delwar Hossain. Firemen been producing for brands which are unaware of — Julie Naughton rushed to the site but could not enter the fifth their production there,” the group said.

FASHION SCOOPS parties. “When you’re a comedy writer, you wear for outdoor-wear company Barbour’s Gold A SNAG AT FERRE?: The sale of the Gianfranco Ferré operative decisions, such as the choice of a anything fancy and people think you’re stuck- Label line, which will launch for fall 2011. company has hit a bump. A source close to the chief executive or of a creative designer.” up,” she said. “If you wear shoes with a two- firm said Samsung is having “second thoughts at inch heel, people ask, ‘Where are you going?’” TWITTER TALK: Perhaps best known for the the altar.” As reported, last month Italy’s minister WEST COAST WINTER: Charlotte Ronson gathered party that gathers around gourmet lunch trucks of economic development approved the decision of her West Coast family and friends Tuesday for TEMPERLEY BACK IN LONDON: Having shown a every Friday in its parking lot in downtown Palo the three state-appointed commissioners of Ferré’s a holiday dinner at Eveleigh in West Hollywood. number of her collections in New York over the Alto, online streetwear shop Moxsie recently parent company, IT Holding SpA, to accept Prodos True to L.A. style, guests including parents Ann past few years, Alice Temperley is bringing her started hosting a different kind of gathering Capital Management LLC’s bid to acquire the Dexter-Jones and Mick Jones, twin sister Samantha Temperley London line back to its namesake online. Twice a week on Twitter, anyone with an brand. Prodos has joined forces in the deal with Ronson, Ashlee Simpson, Pete Wentz, Ione Skye, city. The designer, whose studio is based in interest in fashion can give his or her opinion Salmar Shipping Ltd., a Greek company owned by Nicky Hilton and Shiri Appleby shared fried cumin London, will present her fall 2011 collection in on styles to the Moxsie buying team and brand the Salonitis ship-owning family. The closing of the eggplant, beef rib eye and chocolate chip ice a runway show as part of London Fashion Week reps. Participants are rewarded with points and contract was conditional on an agreement between cream sandwiches under heat lamps on the in February, to coincide with the label’s 10th store credit, as well as Foursquare-style badges Prodos and Samsung, which has a fashion line of restaurant’s balcony while a pack of paparazzi anniversary. In past seasons, Temperley had they can post on Facebook, such as “junior its own and would be involved in the Ferré deal. waited outside. Though Ronson hadn’t decided favored quirky presentations or film installations buyer” and “celebrity buyer.” “Samsung is not giving the administrators yet how to celebrate the holidays, China Chow over a conventional show. The designer said: “We So far, the ad hoc focus groups — this is the guarantees they had requested, such was drumming up ideas for what to wear when have tremendously enjoyed working with different not quite crowdsourcing — have resulted in as keeping the company’s employees or on she begins filming the second season of “Work of creative teams for the last four seasons in New Los Angeles shoe brand Matiko choosing cobalt long-term projects,” said the source. “Now Art: The Next Great Artist” for Bravo in April. York, showcasing our collection in new and novel blue as its “pop” color for a wedge shoe. “If we can it’s up to the administrators again, and they Mindy Kaling was primed to start filming an ways. However, we belong here in London, being make the audience feel they have some influence, are evaluating how to proceed.” Although indie comedy that she penned called “The Low a true British brand, and are delighted to be back that’s the key to deeper engagement than most the reasons behind this stall are unclear, the Self Esteem of Lizzie Gillespie,” in New York. and showing for our 10th-year celebrations.” retailers have,” said Moxsie chief executive officer source speculated the parties involved “may In the meantime, Kaling got a kick dressing Temperley will also mark the label’s Jon Fahrner, who was the third employee at Zappos. have agreed on strategies, but not on the up in Charlotte Ronson’s clothes for holiday anniversary by designing a capsule collection The startup has $5 million in venture funding.

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