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The Quaker; a Study in Costume

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The Quaker; a Study in Costume / THE QUAKER A Study in Costume n AMELIA MOTT GUMMERE " 1 hu»e thy i j' n. I another', pie and j they are, the letter. Neither unshapely, nor I; and for L^c and l>eceocy, and : .!e." William 1'ens, 1G93. $f](Iat>rlpf)ta FERRIS & LEACH, Publishers 29 North Seventh Street 1901 Copy* t VWU [TROD I CTION <|u< r if il t he sen.- I ••< } ami in I mncfa " : — a \v Pan m iv. INTRODUCTION. his whole style of living, and intercourse with his fel- low-men. There arc three distinct periods into—which tl tory of Quaker dress will naturally Call: the period of persecution, when the early Friends had everything at stake, and life was to them more than meal and the body than raiment; the Becond, <t reactionary period, when their position was established, their cause won, and prosperity, with its SB proving, as it always will prove, a far more dangerous foe than tin- perils of adversity; and the third, or modern period, when the crisis of the present brings them face to face with intricate problems, and <lr< - in f;ill- it proper place in the general Bcheme of things. We -hall see that in the face of a real issue, Quakerism disre- garded the question of • and it is worth while to trace the growth and development of the traditional idea of Quaker costume, as it has come to be universally accepted. In other words, we Bhall Btudy the Quaker in the light of a Higher Criticism, applied to the Doc- trine of Cloth Since the great days of persecution, when, for the " " sake of a principle, all the minor testimonies gained in weight and import, bearing their share in forwarding the caase of Truth and Quakerism, many of the beliefs then peculiar to a sect are now held by multitudes of God-fearing people the world over. A total absence in the denominational schools of any proper teaching of Quaker history, has in past years made the matter of " " dress a veritable cross to many a youthful member, who has thrown off the obnoxious burden as soon as he was master of his own movements; a result that might /\ PRODI CTIOW. v. had he at all frequently have been avoided, appreciated hi- inheritance. But an understanding "i" the Bpirit of Quakerism can do more come by heredity alone than can any of tin- other Christian virtues; and many a voung -<'iil has lived hungry for Borne explanation of the reason for the singularity forced upon him, quite unsatisfied by being told thai the elder Friends "de- sired t«» have him encouraged." The force "1 example in this case has had a magnificenl demonstration; but even it has failed to give the intelligent understanding «.f .an-«-. without which, when the test comes, the in the -train must prove too great. Th< nt crisis than whole religious world i- upon the Quaker no less upon every other member of n sect. Bow many of his young people can judge, from a clear understanding of the history of their Society, whether the now problems to his —social, religious or moral—are counter own ancestors' teachings, put forth at the cost of life itself, ' ; be or i Tl Quaker prophets must made t<» live ;!Lr ain in the of their lives and all history- he they meant, or the youth of the Soci< not prop- erly accounted Quakers. They will doubtless beco od ( Christians, in the flood of modern religious teach- ing now surrounding them. Ami it i- possible that this i- enough, and the Qui k< r has done hi- part, and won repose. If not, then I believe that the Quakers have not sufficiently appreciated the immense chasm between seventeenth ami ninel century needs, 1 that " " there are crosses far more weighty to be borne than this <4 the garb, which, if it be worn at all, should he regarded as a privilege. The penitential spirit of the last century Quaker, rather than combat the great evils vi. l\ TRODX OTION. existing in the world about him, and manfully seel clear its political and social atmosphere, Bpenl fruitless " < « :i i 1 i 1 1 t.> this energy, first, in ir the weigh! of cro of lii> peculiar garb, and thru in teaching his constitu- ency how t<> be patient under their burden, forgetting, '* as Vaughan has well put it. that there Lb quite much s<]f-will in going out of the way of a blessing seek a misery, as in avoiding ;i duty for the Bake of ease." The descriptions here given have in every case had the authority of an original article of dress, or the oxpe rience of a participant in the incident quoted. Despite the lapse of time, there still exists ample material for the Btudy of Quaker costume. I toll model- still remain; the flat hut is a treasured relic in more than one family, and old silhouettes, daguerreotypes, portraits and pen drawings are to be found in many a household whose walls have never been adorned with BUch vanities, sim- ply because human affection is too strong to be lightly set aside. There is qo community of people among as whom, a class, family heirlooms, old plate, and the costumes of an earlier day are more highly valued or more carefully handed down from parent to child, than the Quakers. These have been called upon for their secrets of the precious past, and have been al Ber- vice in preparing the following pages, thank- to their owners. generous My acknowledgments are also espe- cially due to Mr. Sidney Colvin, of the British Museum, for his kind permission to reproduce certain prints, and to Charles Roberts, of Philadelphia, for the use of his unique collection of « Quakeriana. \ q Haverford, Pa., 1901. CONTENTS. • • • • '" Is i BOD1 CTIOH, • I II Mill. I. —Tin ...... 1 • i II i • • • 1 1. — Til K BPIBl i >1 Hi- I M i*i m.—Bi uii- Wiee un> Baw . IV.— Tiik QCAKKRl . • • W . 187 V.—TBI Kn.'M PlOU "K tiik QUAXKH BOMKBT, . [LLUSTRATION B Kl I.I.-l'Ai.K 1'LATKS. i . ntt» t Cbabi n . §ite ' I Mil fr.Mii original painting by Van l»yc», in the l>jurr.v < • i-i-. PA'. It Will [AM r a Hi.- full-length menotlnt by Etrle, • ( Philadelphia, ai til.- v Iniuan. original | " FK')M I.i\ i i r TO nmi. U " i i he ^ 01 nt nrofti I "«\ KEsioN." * - ii. i in. v.. i ii inni Qltutratloai ton "War vltfa ye 1>.-m1. h The Young Man's K llcl with > I By H [Benjamin Ketch], rWlemu Library. 1 l'-'l lrj QBOBOl OX, I ..... 1 _ra\ing l>y Allan, after the painting by 1'binn. 41 I 1 I \- BlCKS, 1741 .... 1 r..iu .i -ilbiM . Hi\ I KM I IT. 1773-18 . .42 . .1 -llh" . 60 A W I I SB 1 I \ PABTT, .... < • of »utlook From .\ r. .ni iih.'t.i^raph, by iviirte^y The Company. 71 GBOB&B IUI.I.WYN BO, . - Ait. r au engraving - by J. Collin-. '- POUB OLD-TlMK PsmrSTLTAKIA WOBTHISB, . JOHJI P B, 1727-1" Emi Dionu s, 17 .1-1*09. James Pbcbbbxo*, 1TJ4-1809. J. .UN Pakklsu, 173O-1807. ^ 74 Septimt I: s, 1807, Aged 18, ... After the et< bing by Rosenthal. OPP lAt.K William Penn, ..... After the bust in Ivory by Sylvanua Bevan. Moses Bkown, 1738-1836, ..... 107 Engraved by T. Pollock, attir the jxirtrait by W. .1 Harris. Gulielma Spbingett, First Wife of William Penn, 1644-H i-".' From an after the «'ii In engraving original painting jrlaas, possesion of di-si endanU "i lit nry Swai lag, England. Hannah Callowhill, Second Wife of William Penn, 1664-1796, Original painting at Blackwell Hall, County Durham, England. in Independence Hall, Philadelphia, The Collar, ... .140 I l£issFiTZGEKALD,LAnY-in-Waiting i After the painting by Sii Ehomai Lawrei II. MAUi.AKtT afOBBIS, Wui. of I Jr., 1799 From the drawing "ti atone of A. Neman, after the original painting. "Going to Meeting in 17 . 166 From an original photograph A (ji'aker Weddim., i . 163 After t lie In I a of original painting by Percy Kigland | Isaac II. Clothier, \\ ynnewood, Pennsylvai The Two Friends, ..... i.,-i After the engraving by Bouvier, London. About r The Fair Quaker, ..... London, 1782, Elizabeth Fry, 1780-18 . .184 After the portrait by George Richmond, 1824. Martha Rotjth, 1743-1817, . ioo Silhouette in possession of Charles Roberts, <,f Philadelphia. The . Quakers' Meeting, about 1648, . .194 After the original engraving by Egbert van Heemakerek. opp. PAGI Thk Calash, ...... 207 Invent" '1 1765. Worn until about 1880, Prom U original photograph. In i Cap, . 208 I. Martha Washington, Sii.ium-kttk. II. Amu U "in:, 1769 Engmrad by Ughtroot, from t be medallion done In Paris bj I >avld. ( . i iii i:« ii i:i i i i ,i; \. si Mi us.., London, 177 . 218 Original painting In Deronablre Houaa ooQaction, London. "Tin: BBID1 ...... 319 I r ID th( DI rinjj in l ra Iloreali-," pnblllthtfl at New i 1 i"<83. latle-upon- j in-, \ <^i u Victoria, ..... After an engraving by Froemai London, It Fashiob Plats, ah..i r 1849, .... 221 " ' i i. 'in I-e tanaeiller dee Da iris. i».\y Rain? Cover, . I run an original jibotograi'l.. ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT MATTKW. I A'. I l \l vi i Isn . M COBTI UK, 1787, .... i M \ i i Off] i M i Aftrr M.irtin. aim Bi NOT , 1780, .....
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