The Relinquishment of Plain Dress: British Quaker Women's Abandonment of Plain Quaker Attire, 1860-1914
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The Relinquishment of Plain dress: British Quaker women's abandonment of Plain Quaker attire, 1860-1914 Miss Hannah Frances Rumball A thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements of the University of Brighton for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy June 2016 Hannah Rumball Dress History, Quakerism and Material Culture Page 2 Abstract This thesis discusses how British Quaker women negotiated relinquishing their religiously prescribed Plain dress from 1860 to 1914 in the context of developments in Quaker feminine identity. This thesis approaches its subjects by examining the primary source of surviving Quaker garments in British dress collections. These items provide the basis from which research methodologies and the personal narratives of Quaker women and their case studies are developed. Surviving garments, alongside historical letters, diaries, religious texts, department store catalogues, photographs and period dress illustrations are analysed in order to understand how women Quakers practised their religion and organised their public appearance through dress during this period. The original quality of this research is the outcome of an interdisciplinary approach. No other research project in the international dress history or religious history fields has discussed and critically considered the identity of British Quaker women through an analysis of their surviving clothing between 1860 and 1914. This aspect of British social history and therefore British identity has until now remained unexplored and unacknowledged. By 1860 Quakerism had undergone extreme doctrinal upheaval, which had led to the abandonment of those rules which enforced Plainness of speech and apparel that same year. Even prior to 1860, this thesis reveals that some women were incorporating fashion into their religious Plain dress, by using fashionable silhouettes and high-quality fabrics albeit eschewing bright colours and ornamentation. After 1860 however, male and female Quakers had complete individual freedom of choice in their clothing. During this period of religious turmoil, female Victorian Quakers vocalised a range of opinions on women's emancipation, education and welfare, on their role within the religious society and their opinions concerning dress through published correspondence in Quaker journals. This thesis identifies a variety of views concerning dress between 1860 and 1914, as Quaker women negotiated their individual freedom of choice in attire in a ternary Hannah Rumball Dress History, Quakerism and Material Culture Page 3 manner. Moreover, this thesis proves that this ternary interpretation was acknowledged by Quakers themselves and discussed within Quaker journals in the 1860-1914 period. Quakers of the period identified these ternary interpretations as ascetic, moderate and fashionable. This thesis proposes a new set of classifying terms, Non-Adaptive, Semi- Adaptive and Fully-Adaptive, in reflection of the extent to which Quaker women adapted their religious clothing to incorporate fashion alongside their differing interpretations of Quaker belief. Four case studies illustrate further these three adaptive interpretations, and show how individual Quaker women chose to present themselves to their religious community and wider society. Hannah Rumball Dress History, Quakerism and Material Culture Page 4 Contents Page Page Number Abstract 2 Table of Contents 4 List of Illustrations 5 Acknowledgements 24 Author's declaration 26 Introduction 27 Chapter 1 Research and Research Methodologies 35 Chapter 2 Literature Review based on Key Critical 78 Themes of the PhD Chapter 3 Women and Quakerism Pre-1860 105 Chapter 4 Women and Quakerism 1860 - 1914 in the context 141 of debates about women's role in society in general Chapter 5 Fashionable Dress compared to Quaker Dress 1860-1914 178 Chapter 6 Non-adaptive Case Study: Elizabeth Petipher Cash, 1873 220 Chapter 7 Fashionable Semi- Adaptive Case Study: Helen Priestman 290 Bright Clark, 1866 Chapter 8 Aesthetic Semi-Adaptive Case Study: Geraldine 341 Cadbury, 1891 Chapter 9 Fully-Adaptive Case Study: Lucretia Seebohm, 1874 and 406 Mary Ann Seebohm, c. 1891 Chapter 10 Debate and Discussion of Findings 450 Bibliography 468 Appendix 500 Hannah Rumball Dress History, Quakerism and Material Culture Page 5 List of Illustrations Chapter 1 Research and Research Methodology Fig. 1.1: Cadbury Wedding Photograph, with the bride Geraldine Cadbury at the centre. 8th September 1891. MS466A/603. Birmingham Library. © Cadbury Archive, Mondelēz International. Fig. 1.2: Wedding photograph depicting the bride, groom and bridesmaids. The image is clearly blurred. 8th September 1891. MS466A/604(a). Birmingham Library. © Cadbury Archive, Mondelēz International. Fig. 1.3: Double page spread from the C-F London Friends Institute. Showing the heavy card page with 4 rectangular windows for the carte de visite which slot in place, faced with a paper page containing the name, place and date of death for each of the sitters. Archive of the Religious Society of Friends. NSA13 Shelf 4. Personal photograph by the author. 5th March 2015. Fig. 1.4: Selection of carte de visite, revealing studio compositions which include more than one sitter. Q-S London Friends Institute. Archive of the Religious Society of Friends. NSA13 Shelf 4. Personal photograph by the author. 5th March 2015. Fig. 1.5: The reverse of Samuel Rhoads of Philadelphia's carte de visite, with the postage stamp still in place where the carte was sent to the Religious Society of Friends headquarters. Q-S London Friends Institute. Archive of the Religious Society of Friends. NSA13 Shelf 4. Personal photograph by the author. 5th March 2015. Chapter 2 Literature Review. No images. Chapter 3 Women and Quakerism Pre-1860 Hannah Rumball Dress History, Quakerism and Material Culture Page 6 Fig. 3.1: Wrap over front of Quaker Dress. 1810. Drab Silk. Killerton House National Trust, Devon. Personal photograph by the author. 18th November 2014. Fig. 3.2: Eighteen pleats on the back of the skirt from the waist band of Quaker Dress. 1810. Drab Silk. Killerton House National Trust, Devon. Personal photograph by the author. 18th November 2014. Fig. 3.3: Open twist silk cording at cuffs of Quaker Dress. 1810. Drab Silk. Killerton House National Trust, Devon. Personal photograph by the author. 18th November 2014. Fig. 3.4: Noticeably Plain through its lack of ornamentation and muted colour on Quaker Dress. 1810. Drab Silk. Killerton House National Trust, Devon. Personal photograph by the author. 18th November 2014. Fig. 3.5: Eliza Westwood (neé Nickalls) Wedding Bonnet. 1840. Beige satin. Worthing Museum and Art Gallery. Personal photograph by the author. 1st November 2012. Fig. 3.6: Beige twisted silk cord on bavolet on Eliza Westwood (neé Nickalls) Wedding Bonnet. 1840. Beige satin. Worthing Museum and Art Gallery. Personal photograph by the author. 1st November 2012. Fig. 3.7: Evidence of decay on Eliza Westwood (neé Nickalls) Wedding Bonnet. 1840. Beige satin. Worthing Museum and Art Gallery. Personal photograph by the author. 1st November 2012. Fig. 3.8: Membership of London Yearly Meeting 1800-1900. Elizabeth Isichei. Victorian Quakers. (Oxford: University Press, 1970) 111. © Oxford University Press. Chapter 4 Women and Quakerism 1860 - 1914 in the context of debates about women's role in society in general Fig. 4.1: (L-R) Margaret Tanner (née Priestman), Mary Priestman and Anna Maria Priestman. 2nd August 1890. JBG8/28. Alfred Gillett Trust, Clarks Archive, Street. Courtesy of the Alfred Gillett Trust/C & J Clark Ltd. Hannah Rumball Dress History, Quakerism and Material Culture Page 7 Fig. 4.2: Veeder. Elizabeth Cady Stanton. c.1900. Black and white film copy negative. LC-USZ62-28195. Library of Congress, Prints and Photographic Division, Washington D.C. Web. 27 March 2015. Courtesy of the Library of Congress LC-USZ62-28195 (b&w film copy neg.) http://www.loc.gov/pictures/item/2004670381/ Fig. 4.3: Lucretia (Coffin) Mott, three-quarter length portrait, seated, facing right, in Plain Quaker dress. circa 1860-1880. Black and white film copy negative. LC- USZ62-42559. Library of Congress, Prints and Photographic Division, Washington D.C. Web. 27 March 2015. Courtesy of the Library of Congress LC-USZ62-42559 (b&w film copy neg.) http://www.loc.gov/pictures/item/97500244/ Fig. 4.4: Auguste Thomas Marie Blanchard. Elizabeth Fry. 1823. Line engraving. 16.2cm x 11.2cm. NPG D7613. National Portrait Gallery, London. Web. 27 March 2015. © National Portrait Gallery, London http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw41580/Elizabeth- Fry?LinkID=mp01694&search=sas&sText=elizabeth+fry&role=sit&rNo=2 Fig.4.5: Helen (Priestman) Bright Clark. Circa 1860-1880. 7.1 cm x 4.8 cm. 81.148. Massachusettes Historical Society, USA. Web. 27 March 2015. http://www.masshist.org/database/viewer.php?old=1&item_id=1033 Fig. 4.6: The Friend, 1st November 1875. Archive of the Religious Society of Friends, London. Personal photograph by the author. 13th March 2015 Fig. 4.7: WSPU Procession. Artists from the Suffrage Atelier league can be seen holding banners, palettes and ribbons. 23rd July 1910. 009023. © Museum of London Photographic collection, London. Web. 27 March 2015. http://www.museumoflondonprints.com/image/681634/unknown-wspu- procession-23-july-1910 Fig. 4.8: Bonnet, produced in France. c. 1875. Straw, silk, wood, metal. 2009.300.4608 a, b. Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, New York, USA. Web. 27 March 2015. Hannah Rumball Dress History, Quakerism and Material Culture Page 8 http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection- online/search/168801 Fig. 4.9: Mourning Ensemble. c. 1870-1872. Silk. Length at CB (a): 18 1/2 in. (47 cm) Length at CB (b): 56 in. (142.2 cm) Other (c): 32 in. (81.3 cm). 2009.300.633a–c. Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, USA. Web. 27 March 2015. http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection- online/search/159185 Chapter 5 Fashionable Dress compared to Quaker Dress 1860-1914 Fig. 5.1: Fashionable dress dyed using magenta aniline dye which was particularly popular during the decade, also featuring a skirt supported by a crinoline.