THE CYCLE ROUTE About the Author Mike has been a keen long distance cyclist for over 25 years. After com- pleting various UK Sustrans routes, such as Lôn Las Cymru in Wales and THE RHINE CYCLE ROUTE the C2C route across northern England, he then moved on to cycling long- distance routes in continental Europe and beyond. These include cycling FROM SOURCE TO SEA THROUGH , both the Camino and Ruta de la Plata to Santiago de la Compostela, a traverse of Cuba from end to end, a circumnavigation of Iceland and a trip AND THE across Lapland to the North Cape. While working for a travel company he made frequent visits to vari- by Mike Wells ous parts of the and saw the cycle-friendly infrastructure all along the river. This inspired him to cycle the route for the first time with his partner Christine. In researching the first edition of this book, Mike cycled the length of the river three more times, following cycle routes along both banks and exploring other alternatives.

Other Cicerone guides by the author The Adlerweg The Cycle Route The Danube Cycleway Volume 1 The Danube Cycleway Volume 2 The River Rhone Cycle Route The Loire Cycle Route JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS, Cycling from London to Paris OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL www.cicerone.co.uk © Mike Wells 2018 CONTENTS Third edition 2018 ISBN: 978 1 85284 899 6 Map key...... 6 Second edition 2015 Overview map...... 7 First edition 2013 Preface...... 9 Printed in China on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd INTRODUCTION ...... 11 A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Background ...... 13 All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated. The route...... 17 Natural environment ...... 20 Route mapping by Lovell Johns www.lovelljohns.com Preparation...... 22 Contains OpenStreetMap.org data © OpenStreetMap Getting there and back...... 23 contributors, CC-BY-SA. NASA relief data courtesy of ESRI Navigation...... 26 Accommodation...... 30 Food and drink...... 32 Amenities and services...... 35 Updates to this guide What to take...... 37 While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guide- Safety and emergencies ...... 38 books as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edi- About this guide...... 41 tion. Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone THE ROUTE...... 43 website (www.cicerone.co.uk/899/updates), so please check before plan- ning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such Alpenrhein () things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way Stage 1 Oberalppass to ...... 44 can be altered over time. Stage 2 Ilanz to ...... 53 The route maps in this guide are derived from publicly available data, Stage 3 Chur to Buchs...... 60 databases and crowd-sourced data. As such they have not been through Stage 4 Buchs to Bregenz ...... 69 the detailed checking procedures that would generally be applied to a pub- Hochrhein () lished map from an official mapping agency, although naturally we have Stage 5 Bregenz to Konstanz...... 77 reviewed them closely in the light of local knowledge as part of the prepa- Stage 6 Konstanz to Schaffhausen...... 92 ration of this guide. Stage 7 Schaffhausen to Waldshut...... 101 We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies Stage 8 Waldshut to Basel...... 112 between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Murley Oberrhein () Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, LA9 7RL. Stage 9 Basel to Neuf-Brisach...... 124 Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers Stage 10 Neuf-Brisach to Strasbourg...... 133 and GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk. Stage 11 Strasbourg to Drusenheim...... 143 Stage 12 Drusenheim to Karlsruhe...... 148 Stage 13 Karlsruhe to Speyer...... 158 Stage 14 Speyer to Worms...... 166 Stage 15 Worms to Mainz...... 176 Front cover: The Rhine Cycle Route follows the river past Remagen (Stage 18) The Rhine Cycle Route Overview map Mittelrhein () Stage 16 Mainz to Bacharach ...... 185 Rhine Cycle Route Stage 17 Bacharach to Koblenz...... 193 (1372km) Stage 18 Koblenz to Remagen...... 202 Source to Sea 27 26 25 24 Stage 19 Remagen to Köln...... 210 23 NETHERLANDS Niederrhein () 22 Stage 20 Köln to Düsseldorf...... 222 21 Stage 21 Düsseldorf to Duisburg...... 230 Düsseldorf Stage 22 Duisburg to Xanten...... 237 20 Stage 23 Xanten to Arnhem...... 244 Köln GERMANY 19 Delta Rijn (Rhine Delta) BELGIUM Stage 24 Arnhem to ...... 254 Eifel 18 Stage 25 Wijk bij Duurstede to Schoonhoven...... 262 Koblenz Taunus Stage 26 Schoonhoven to Rotterdam...... 268 17 Stage 27 Rotterdam to Hoek van Holland...... 275 Hunsrück 16 Frankfurt Mainz Appendix A Route summary table...... 283 LUXEMBOURG 15 Appendix B Facilities summary table...... 285 Appendix C Tourist offices...... 297 Mannheim Appendix D Youth hostels ...... 303 14 Appendix E Useful contacts...... 306 13 Appendix F Language glossary ...... 307 Karlsruhe Symbols used on route maps 12 11 route building Strasbourg alternative route cathedral or church 10 route direction abbey, monastery or priory Black start point castle or château Vosges Forest start/finish point tourist oce N 9 6 Bodensee finish point youth hostel 7 5 woodland battlefield Basel 8 Bregenz urban areas ferry 0 100 km 4 international border airport Zürich Jura station/railway viewpoint 3 peak lock SWITZERLAND 2 1 Chur pass bo Dutch knooppunten (nodal waypoints) Lai da Tuma GPX files point of interest Alps GPX files for all routes can be downloaded for free at www.cicerone.co.uk/899/GPX

6 7  The Rhine Cycle Route

PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION

This edition has been substantially revised to incorporate new maps and a num- ber of re-routings, mostly to make use of cycle tracks along recently opened stretches of flood dyke, particularly from Sennwald to Au (Stage 4), Hamm to Oppenheim (Stage 15) and Orsoy to Ossenberg (Stage 22). Other changes reflect recognition by the European Cyclists’ Federation (ECF) of the Rhine Cycle Route as EuroVèlo route EV15 and re-signposting through France to accommodate this. The opening of a TGV (high-speed) rail line between Dijon and Mulhouse has made Switzerland accessible from Paris in just three hours. This has improved access from the UK by making it possible to reach in the in one day by train from London. The list of tourist information offices has been extended to include all offices encountered including those with seasonal open- ing periods and limited hours. Popularity of the route continues to grow, with an increasing number of cyclists following the whole route from source to sea. Shorter rides are increas- ing in popularity too, particularly around Bodensee and through the Rhine gorge between Mainz and Koblenz. The author would like to thank all those readers who have cycled the route using previous editions and sent in comments about route alterations and changes to facilities. Where relevant these have been incor- porated into the text.

Bodensee radweg in Meersburg, with Altes Burg castle behind (Stage 5)

8 9  The Rhine Cycle Route

INTRODUCTION

Werdenberg, the smallest town in Switzerland (Stage 4)

The great attraction of following a All the countries it passes through river from source to sea is that it is are highly cycle-friendly, and motor- downhill all the way (well, almost ists will generally give you plenty of all the way – our route does occa- room. This route is suitable both for sionally climb a little for spectacular experienced long-distance cyclists views down into the valley). From the and those who have done only a lit- summit of Oberalppass (which can be tle cycle touring and wish to attempt reached by cycle-friendly train), near something more adventurous. the source of the river at Lai da Tuma, The route mostly follows Swiss, the Rhine Cycle Route descends German, French and Dutch national 2046m to the North Sea at Hoek van cycle trails, with a high standard of Holland (Hook of Holland), a distance waymarking throughout. This guide of 1372km. The cycling is straightfor- breaks the route into 27 stages, aver- ward, with much of the route follow- aging 51km per stage. A fit cyclist, ing well-surfaced cycle tracks, often covering two stages per day, should along the riverbank or flood dykes. be able to complete the trip in two On those occasions where roads are weeks. A more leisurely 80km per day The Wasserturm is the symbol of Mannheim (Stage 14) used, these are usually quiet country would allow for some sightseeing and routes with dedicated cycle lanes. you would still complete the journey

10 11 The Rhine Cycle Route Background in 17 days. You can break the journey over the water, and Friedrichshafen, Impregnable Ehrenbreitstein fortress opposite Koblenz (Stage 17) at almost any point as there are many home to the Zeppelin. Beyond the places to stay along the way. These are lake is Rheinfall, continental Europe’s suitable for all budgets, varying from largest waterfall by volume of water. 40 Hostelling International youth hos- Below here the river flows through an tels and many backpacker hostels attractive wooded valley between the to B&Bs, guesthouses and hotels. If Black Forest and the Jura mountains, you do not mind the extra weight of passing a series of unspoilt medieval camping gear, there are many official towns. After Basel, the route turns campsites. north through French Alsace, an area The Rhine is rightly one of the much fought over, with many rem- world’s greatest rivers and one of the nants of successive wars. Then it is most visited by tourists. Many travel on past the French gastronomic cen- by boat, disembarking only at tourist tre of Strasbourg, the great industrial honey-pots and eating international cities of Karlsruhe and Mannheim/ food on-board. By cycling the length Ludwigshafen, and the imperial cit- of the river you will have a different ies and religious centres of Speyer, perspective, passing through smaller Worms and Mainz, before reach- towns, meeting local people and eat- ing the barrier of the Taunus and Duisburg, which produces half of all architecture. On the opposite bank, ing local food. English is widely spo- Hunsrück mountains. The Rhine German steel and is Europe’s larg- between Rotterdam and the North ken, almost universally in Switzerland Gorge, cutting between these ranges, est inland port. For most of the way Sea is Europoort, which was the and the Netherlands. is the most spectacular stage of all, through this area, the river is fol- world’s busiest port until overtaken by This is a journey of vari- lined with fairy-tale castles and lowed, avoiding much of the intensive Shanghai in 2004. ety. Passing through six countries award-winning vineyards. Halfway industrial development. Continuing (Switzerland, Germany, France and through is the infamous Loreley rock. through wide open flat agricultural the Netherlands, with short sections Continuing between the dormant land into the Netherlands, the river BACKGROUND in Liechtenstein and ) you will volcanic Eifel and Siebengebirge starts dividing to eventually reach Geographically the Rhine has six dis- be exposed to much of the geography, ranges, where an active geyser dem- the North Sea by way of five different tinct sections: history, culture and economic success onstrates the power of vulcanism, channels. Our route follows one of • Alpenrhein (Alpine Rhine) is the of Western Europe. the Rhine emerges onto the North these, the , cycling on top of flood combination of the From the Rhine’s upper reaches German plain. dykes with intensively farmed polders and tributaries that in Switzerland, surrounded by high The route continues to Bonn, (drained land), lower than the river flow rapidly down the north side Alpine mountains, our route passes past the Bundeshaus (where the West and reclaimed over many centuries, of the Alps, along deep glacial the tiny principality of Liechtenstein German parliament sat 1949–99) and lining the river’s course. At Kinderdijk valleys, into Bodensee. to reach Bodensee (), Beethoven’s birthplace, then on to there are 19 surviving windmills of the • Hochrhein (Higher Rhine) con- Western Europe’s second largest nat- Köln (Cologne), which with over one type used to drain this land. The last tinues descending through broad ural lake. On the shores of Bodensee million inhabitants is the largest city great city is Rotterdam, rebuilt hur- wooded gorges providing the are the Austrian festival town of en route and site of the world’s sec- riedly after destruction in the Second border between Switzerland and Bregenz, where open-air opera is ond tallest cathedral spire. Then past World War and now being rebuilt Baden-Württemberg (Germany) presented every summer on a stage Düsseldorf and through industrial again with much stunning modern from Bodensee to Basel.

12 13 The Rhine Cycle Route Background

• Oberrhein (Upper Rhine) mean- of Western Europe, it has signifi- empire against barbarian tribes to the to destroy them in 1944–45 in an ders north from Basel across a cance far beyond its relatively modest east. By medieval times this demar- attempt to prevent Allied invasion of broad plain, between the Vosges 1232km length. It can be described cation had developed into a border Germany. mountains in French Alsace and as four rivers in one. Firstly, it func- between Germanic speaking nations the German Black Forest, as far tions as an important national border; of the Holy Roman Empire, east of The legendary Rhine as Mainz. secondly it is the source of many of the river, and Francophone ones to The oldest tales of the Rhine are • Mittelrhein (Middle Rhine) is a the myths and legends central to the west. From the Middle Ages up derived from the Nibelungenlied, a picturesque stretch from Mainz European culture; thirdly it is a great to the mid-20th century, continuing 13th-century poem by an unknown to Bonn, where the river has cut commercial artery and location for power struggles saw frequent territo- German author. It centred on the the Rhine Gorge between the industry; and fourthly it has a mag- rial claims and border incursions. bloodthirsty affairs of court in Worms Hunsrück/Eifel mountains (west) netic attraction to tourists and pursu- Further south, Swiss, Austrians and and featured Siegfried, Brunhilde and and the Taunus/Siebengebirge ers of leisure activities. Bavarians competed to control the a hoard of gold that caused much ranges (east). northern approaches to the Alps, with strife and was eventually buried in • Niederrhein (Lower Rhine) The border Rhine the Rhine becoming a natural bound- the Rhine to prevent further trouble. crosses the North German plain For two millennia, the river has rep- ary between their interests. In the far Siegfried went on to feature in many from Bonn to the Dutch border. resented the border between major north, both the Dutch and Spanish other legends. Composer Richard • Delta Rijn (Rhine Delta) is the national entities. The Romans set their used the river in their struggle for Wagner (1813–83) used this tale for Dutch part of the river, which northern frontier along the Rhine/ hegemony over the Netherlands. the basis of Das Rheingold and sub- divides into five different arms to Danube axis and established the As a result, the river is peppered sequent works making up ‘The Ring of reach the North Sea. first towns on the Rhine at Colonia with military hardware from Roman the Nibelung’ opera cycle. However, the Rhine is more than (Köln), Mainz, Strasbourg and Xanten fortifications, through medieval cas- Many of the towns, villages and just a river. Flowing through the heart as bases for legions defending their tles, fortified military towns and inte- castles along the German part of the grated defensive lines to concrete river have local legends, some of anti-tank defences, each passing into which are related in the route descrip- history as the technological progress tion. Perhaps the most famous is the of warfare made them redundant. song of the Loreley maiden. First Riverside settlements still show the appearing in 1801, the story was scars of battle, particularly from the rewritten by the author Heinrich Second World War, where intensive Heine in 1824 and set to music in bombing was followed by destruc- 1837. tive land warfare. This is particularly The Rhine provided the inspira- evident in relation to the bridges. In tion for two great patriotic songs. the mid-19th century, the Prussian La Marseillaise, the French national military authorities controlling the anthem, was written in Strasbourg in resisted the construction 1792 as a ‘War song for the Army of of railway bridges as a potential dan- the Rhine’ to honour troops defend- ger of invasion. Before and during ing post-revolutionary France from the First World War German forces Prussian and Austrian invasion. On Blockhouse turret on the Maginot line near Marckolsheim (Stage 10) constructed a series of mighty bridges the German side, the poem/song to support the war in France, only Die Wacht am Rhein (‘The Guard

14 15 The Rhine Cycle Route Stage 1 – Oberalppass to Ilanz

m STAGE 1 2100 Oberalppass Oberalppass to Ilanz 2000 1900 1800 1700 Start Oberalppass summit (2046m) 1600 Finish Ilanz square (705m) 1500 Sedrun Distance 52km Waymarking R2 1400 1300 1200 /Mustér 1100

1000 Surrein A fast descent on a well-surfaced minor alpine pass road through Surselva, Trun 900 passing a series of alpine villages, leads to the monastery town of Disentis/ Tavanasa Mustér. From here, a mix of off-road tracks and quiet country lanes take 800 Ilanz you to Ilanz. Superb mountain scenery and high Alpine peaks abound. The 700 600 Rhine evolves from a tiny mountain stream to a fast-flowing river over the 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55km course of this stage. The local language is Romansh, although German is spoken by all. (accommodation, refreshments, station), Rueras (10.5km, 1405m) (accommodation, refreshments, camping, Rueras church

Rheinquelle, the official source of Vorderrhein, is an outflow from Lai da Tuma lake (2345m), high on the mountainside south of Oberalppass. It can be Although reached in an hour and a half by footpath, which Oberalppass is a is not accessible to cycles. The footpath branches quiet Alpine pass, it right, off the pass road, shortly after summit. can become busy on summer weekends, From Oberalppass summit (2046m) (accommoda- particularly attracting tion, refreshments, tourist office, station) follow road SE many motorcyclists. passing lighthouse and tourist office R (limited hours). Care should be Pass start of footpath that leads across mountainside to taken as there is no Rheinquelle and descend steeply around series of hairpin dedicated cycle lane. bends.3 Road passes through tiny village of Tschamut (5.5km, 1645m) (accommodation, refreshments, station) and then continues above golf course at Selva, one of the high- est in Europe. Levelling off, road crosses grassy plateau, passing in quick succession through villages of Dieni

44 45 The Rhine Cycle Route Stage 1 – Oberalppass to Ilanz 3027m station), Camischolas (accommodation, refreshments) and Sedrun (12km, 1406m) (accommodation, refresh- N 9 ments, tourist office, station). 1 St Martin Just after Sedrun, a large pile of spoil was exca- 0 1 2 vated from an intermediate shaft of the 57km-long km Disentis/ , which is directly below the Mustér route at this point. The tunnel, which opened in 2016 after 21 years under construction, carries part D Map continued

r

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plans for the shaft at Sedrun to be used to access a 19 1995m n i e station in the tunnel 800m below ground have been h r r e Sedrun d dropped. r o spoil V tip From Sedrun, road becomes busier as it resumes 19 Surselva Curaglia descending. After short tunnel and couple of hairpin tunnel shaft bends, Disentis/Mustér, dominated by white façade ofD

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1 a on page 47 Sedrun 4 P l a

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s Kloster St Martin, comes into view. Disentis/Mustér s Rueras 9 Schijenstock 0 1 2 1 (21km, 1142m) (accommodation, refreshments, camp- km tunnel ing, tourist office, cycle shop, station) is where you leave shaft road.

ein Oberalppass rrh Founded in ad720, Kloster St Martin in Disentis rde 2046m Vo is one of the oldest Benedictine abbeys in Oberalpsee golf course Switzerland. The current baroque edifice was com- Tschamut Nual pleted in 1712. Plundered by French troops during the Napoleonic wars, the abbey barely survived Pazzolastock 1 2387m 9 the 19th century until restoration of Swiss religious 2740m footpath houses in 1880 led to the founding of a secondary school. The community now includes 23 brothers. Rossbodenstock Piz Lai da Lai da Tuma Cavradi Nalps On-road alternative Rheinquelle After Disentis/Mustér, route is mostly off-road, accessible 2612m Lai da Piz Curnera to mountain bikes and hybrids. Going is not difficult and Badus Piz Tagliola in dry conditions touring bikes will have no problems, especially after Danis. To bypass this section, use main

46 47 The Rhine Cycle Route Stage 1 – Oberalppass to Ilanz

At T-junction, bear L onto cinder track and descend Map continued via series of hairpin bends. Cross Rhine for first time and on page 50 turn L ascending steadily on track cut into wooded hill- Trun side to reach Cavardiras (24km, 1136m). Turn L downhill in village (Via Sogn Antoni) passing church R. At bottom of hill turn R and after 200 metres, ein errh Rabius Vord bear L on rough track into woods. Cross two small streams and after emerging from woods turn L downhill (sp Laus). 19 Turn R at crossroads before river (Via Resgia) and climb steeply past Resgia (accommodation, refreshments) on Cumpadials 4WD track. Descend to riverbank and continue to reach Surrein asphalt road. Turn R and immediately bear L (sp Surrein) R e i 9 n along road through spread-out agricultural village of 1 d a N Surrein (29.5km, 898m) (accommodation, refreshments).

S

u Cavardiras m At T-junction by Surrein church, turn R and after 75 v

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g metres fork R following road gently uphill. Where asphalt 0 1 2 ends, bear slightly L on cinder track into woods. Fork km R across substantial girder bridge over Rein da Sumvitg river and turn L on 4WD track alongside river, continu- ing for 2km undulating through woods. Emerge from road to Ilanz. Off-road and road routes intersect at Trun woods then bear L onto road and cross Rhine. After

and Danis. Alternative route shown in blue on maps. bridge bear R and head across meadows with Trun visible ahead. Fork R (Via Pendas) and turn R at T-junction pass- At T-junction in middle of Disentis/Mustér, turn R (Via ing sports field R.4Bear L (Via Ferrera), passing round To visit Trun Lucmagn) and after 150 metres L (Via dalla Staziun, timber yard, and continue across meadow. Bear L over (refreshments, sp Cavardiras). Pass station R, and continue on Via bridge and level crossing to reach main road just E of camping, station) turn Cavardiras, passing under railway and descending out of Trun (34.5km, 853m). left at the T-junction. town. Turn R for 75 metres along main road to petrol sta- tion and fork L gently uphill (Via Darvella) to reach small The whole way from Oberalppass to Chur, the village of Darvella. Turn R at T-junction back downhill. route runs close to the railway line used by At bottom turn L past houses and barns. Where road trains. Traversing the Swiss Alps ends, continue ahead on cycle track leading up to main from Zermatt in to St Moritz and Davos in road. Continue alongside main road for 150 metres Graubünden, a service of four luxury tourist trains and where road bears R to cross Rhine, turn L steeply runs daily. Taking nearly six hours for 290km, this uphill for 50 metres. Asphalt ends at farm where gravel is the world’s slowest ‘express’ train, but what it track drops down ahead, cut into hillside above railway. lacks in speed is made up for by spectacular scen- This becomes 4WD track undulating alongside railway. ery. There is no provision for cycles, but if you wish Cross over railway and continue on ledge between rail- to traverse this line, there is an hourly local service way and Rhine to reach hydro-electric power station. that you can catch with your bike. Track becomes asphalt as it passes between dam R and

48 49 The Rhine Cycle Route Stage 1 – Oberalppass to Ilanz

substation L. Continue past road leading to generator 5km, passing turn-off L to Waltensburg/Vuorx station. Covered bridge hall R and alongside reservoir L. Fork R halfway along Re-enter forest and drop down to riverbank, passing old leading to reservoir and drop down under railway bridge on nar- row track. Follow riverbank under three road bridges and immediately after last bridge turn sharply L uphill back under bridge. At top, turn R onto minor road between Danis and Tavanasa and bear R over Rhine. Turn L and continue through Tavanasa (40.5km, 798m) (accommo- dation, refreshments, station). Continue through village and bear L under railway bridge. Just before girder bridge over Rhine turn R onto dirt road (Via Resgia). Cross small bridge and at three- way fork just before railway line, take middle fork along cinder track parallel with railway. Follow track as it ClimmernfirnClimmernfirn Fil Fil bends R and L under railway before bearing away from PigniuPigniu 2418m2418m railway following edge of forest R and meadows L for FaleraFalera

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RueunRueun SchnausSchnaus 19 19 0 0 1 1 2 2 Waltensburg/Waltensburg/ kmkm VuorzVuorz 19 19 coveredcovered IlanzIlanz bridgebridge FlondFlond

Breil/BrigelsBreil/Brigels SevgeinSevgein

ein ein rrh rrh ValataValata 9 9 e e 1 1 ord ord DanisDanis V V SurcuolmSurcuolm MisanengaMisanenga G G TavanasaTavanasa l l SchlansSchlans e e n n MeierhofMeierhof n n e e MiranigaMiraniga PizPiz Mundaun r r TrunTrun 19 19 2064m2064m HitzeggerkopfHitzeggerkopf ein ein PitaschPitasch errherrh 2112m2112m PitaschPitasch VordVord MorissenMorissen

CumbelCumbel VellaVella

50 51 The Rhine Cycle Route

covered wooden bridge that leads across Rhine to Rueun (47.5km, 746m) (accommodation, refreshments). STAGE 2 Continue S of river, mostly in trees, to road repair Ilanz to Chur depot where asphalt surface begins. At beginning of industrial estate, bear L parallel to Rhine on track behind factories. Pass under railway and road bridges and con- tinue along riverbank (Via Sorts) with houses and allot- Start Ilanz square (705m) ments R. Bear R across level crossing and turn L (Giessli) Finish Chur station (585m) with skyline of Ilanz altstadt (old town) R. Turn R (Via Distance 35km Centrala) to reach square in centre of Ilanz (52km, 705m) Waymarking R2 (accommodation, refreshments, tourist office, cycle shop, station).

Ilanz (pop 2350) is the first town on the Rhine. It This is the only stage with significant ascent (250m). From Ilanz, the route played an important role during the Reformation climbs steadily following a minor country road to , drops down, when in 1526 the Diat of Ilanz gave citizens the right and then climbs again to a superb viewpoint high above the gorge of to choose between Catholicism or Protestantism, . Descending to cross the river at the confluence of Vorderrhein the second town in the country after Zurich to and Hinterrhein in Reichenau/, an asphalt cycle track is followed to adopt this freedom. Points of interest in the altstadt the medieval city of Chur, capital of Graubünden canton. include medieval walls, a reformed church (1518) Ilanz altstadt and fine 15th- and 16th-century houses.

From square in centre of Ilanz, follow Glennerstrasse E (sp Chur). At end of Ilanz, cross river Glenner, and join cycle track L, parallel with road ascending steadily to reach (2km, 722m) where cycle track ends. Turn R by fountain in centre of village and continue along road, descending gently for 1.5km, followed by steady ascent. First views of Ruinaulta canyon appear L, which will become more dramatic over next few kilome- tres. Continue climbing through (6.5km, 810m)

m 1000 Versam 900 Valendas 800 Ilanz BonaduzTamins 700 Felsberg Chur 600 500 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35km

52 53