An Exploration of Women in Gender-Bending Cosplay
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Costuming as Inquiry: An Exploration of Women in Gender-Bending Cosplay Through Practice & Material Culture Dissertation Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of The Ohio State University By Rebecca Baygents Turk, M.A. Graduate Program in Arts Administration, Education and Policy The Ohio State University 2019 Dissertation Committee Dr. Shari L. Savage, Advisor Dr. Christine Ballengee Morris Dr. Jennifer Schlueter 1 Copyrighted by Rebecca Baygents Turk 2019 2 Abstract This study explores the phenomenon of gender-bending cosplay (GBC) through its material culture using costuming (the acts of making and wearing artifacts and the artifacts themselves) to examine the motivations/interests/expectations of women who participate. GBC embraces the shifting, or bending, of the identified gender and/or biological sex of a fictional character to match the gender identity and/or biological sex of the player. This study concentrates on self-identified women adapting male characters to female versions of the same characters. The principal approach of the research design is Practice as Research (PaR) from an Art-Based Research (ABR) paradigm. Research methods include costuming, performance, ethnography, narrative inquiry, interviewing, participant observation, and discourse analysis. The worlds of text and image are melded in the amphibious, mixed-methods design and presentations of this study. GBC involves creating and using material culture, the artifacts of a culture/community. It becomes a creative outlet for many who may not otherwise be making art. When material culture can be worn, an interactive embodied performance can be experienced between the maker and the player, the player and the artifacts, the player and the audience, the player and fellow players, the player and cultural texts. This performance simultaneously emphasizes and ii challenges gender binaries, gender roles, and expectations. It is a performance of culture. The communities of play collaborate to interpret and reinterpret the performance and the material culture. They tell and share stories that uncover insights into the phenomenon, society, and culture. iii Acknowledgments I wish to thank my advisor, Dr. Shari L. Savage, for taking up the mentorship baton without hesitation and shepherding me through the dissertation process. Her guidance, expertise, and insight are invaluable. I am eternally grateful to Dr. Christine Ballengee Morris for her wisdom, endless encouragement, and her spirit. I am thankful for Dr. Jennifer Schlueter, her continued enthusiasm around my research, and her understanding of my vision. I am indebted to Dr. Debbie Smith-Shank for years of mentorship and for introducing me to the study of material culture. I am grateful for my interview participants and their willingness to share their experiences with me. More than anything, I wish to thank my family. I cannot fully express how appreciative I am of your support, patience, and love. iv Vita 1998…………………………………………B.S. Theatre & Dance, Mathematics minor, Southern Illinois University – Edwardsville 2014…………………………………………M.A. Art Education, The Ohio State University 2011 to present……………………………...Costume Studio Manager/Instructor, Department of Theatre, The Ohio State University Publications Hur, H., Ravisankar, R., Smith-Shank, D., & Turk, R. B. (2016). The nest as metaphor: Reflections on mentoring, growth, and material culture. Visual Inquiry, 5, 3, 393-405. Fields of Study Major Field: Arts Administration, Education and Policy Specializations: Art Education and Analysis of Material Culture v Table of Contents Abstract ............................................................................................................................... ii Acknowledgments.............................................................................................................. iv Vita ...................................................................................................................................... v List of Figures .................................................................................................................. viii GUIDE ............................................................................................................................... ix Section 1: FORWARD ....................................................................................................... 1 Section 2: UNDERPINNINGS ......................................................................................... 16 Performativity ............................................................................................................... 20 Adaptation ..................................................................................................................... 36 Play ............................................................................................................................... 37 Section 3: FIBERS ............................................................................................................ 42 Practice as Research (PaR)... or Performative Research .............................................. 43 Arts-Based Research (ABR) ......................................................................................... 46 Material Culture ............................................................................................................ 53 Creation of Material Artifacts ................................................................................... 58 Interaction with Material Culture .............................................................................. 61 Different insights/interpretations/multisensory ........................................................ 62 Ethnography & Phenomenology ................................................................................... 63 Narrative Inquiry & Storytelling ................................................................................... 65 Performative Interviews ................................................................................................ 67 Discourse Analysis........................................................................................................ 70 Participant Observation ................................................................................................. 79 Section 4: PIECES ............................................................................................................ 84 The journey ................................................................................................................... 87 Setting the Conditions of Play ...................................................................................... 88 vi Parameter 1: GBC ..................................................................................................... 88 Parameter 2: Which character? ................................................................................. 91 Parameter 3: Time Period ......................................................................................... 94 Parameter 4: Visual Markers of Gender ................................................................... 95 Parameter 5: Iconic Design Elements ....................................................................... 99 Pencil to Paper ............................................................................................................ 100 Interacting with Materials ........................................................................................... 107 Construction ................................................................................................................ 115 Testing /Fitting ............................................................................................................ 126 Performing .................................................................................................................. 128 Section 5: PULLING THREADS ................................................................................... 140 Threads of Performativity ........................................................................................... 141 Threads of Adaptation................................................................................................. 146 Threads of Play ........................................................................................................... 148 Section 6: DESIGNS ON THE FUTURE ...................................................................... 151 Applications ................................................................................................................ 151 Directions .................................................................................................................... 155 References ....................................................................................................................... 156 vii List of Figures Figure 1: Art Autobiography – pre-teen, 2015 ................................................................... 2 Figure 2: Hopkins Gallery ................................................................................................ 26 Figure 3: Research Display ............................................................................................... 27 Figure 4: Conceptual sketch of a dimensional rhizome or fuzzy Slinky® ....................... 47 Figure 5: Conceptual sketch of how our filters affect our interpretations of experiences