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Ida Davidsen Has Over 250 Varieties of Smørrebrød, the Sandwiches For

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Ida Davidsen Has Over 250 Varieties of Smørrebrød, the Sandwiches For war. Another highlight is the cocktails toe the locavore line: the Davids Samling, a collection of Purple Overdose, which can be made Islamic art from the 8th to 19th on request, is flush with beetroot and centuries that is beautifully mint. For dinner, there’s no more displayed in the town house of of-the-moment table to book than at the collector himself. It is to Fiskebaren, a Danish seafood showcase Copenhagen what Sir John populated by ferociously hip locals. The Soane’s Museum is to London. Jutland trout and the mussels steamed After half a day or so of in apple cider are particularly fine. cultural immersion, you’ll be You may well want to take some hungry. A table at Noma is the Danish gourmet treats home with you. theoretical ideal, but at short Meyers Deli is a one-stop paradise that notice a near-impossible reality champions local ingredients in three (bookings should be made different locations and also serves a months ahead). The good relaxed but fizzing Sunday brunch. And news is that Copenhagen is then there is AC Perch, a jewel box of a swiftly catching up with its teashop that first opened in 1835 and rivals as a card-carrying foodie sells loose leaf tea that is stored in old- destination. Among the city’s Clockwise from above: Flowerpot Lamp fashioned jars and weighed out on scales. luminaries is The Paul, steps and Panton Chair by Verner Panton, at There are branches in Japan (which away from the twee delights the Danish Museum of Art & Design. speaks for itself) and a tea salon where of Tivoli Gardens. Few other Relaxing in front of Samsøe & Samsøe’s you’ll find everything from scones and Michelin-starred restaurants shop. Nimb hotel is decked with lights. jam to zingy 21st-century tea smoothies. can claim to overlook a There is, of course, life beyond pirate ship, and the roasted eating in Copenhagen. Indeed, langoustine is sensational. Ida Davidsen has over 250 you’d be remiss not to dip into Indeed, the joy of the homeware and fashion scene. Copenhagen is that it’s varieties of smørrebrød, Seek out some of the more increasingly difficult to eat offbeat boutiques and vintage badly here. Start with breakfast the sandwiches for which finds, especially in Vesterbro, at brasserie-style Café Victor. It’s where you’ll discover the flagship replete with sublime cinnamon Denmark is famous. of Designers Remix Collection, buns and pastries (usually gone a local favourite, plus indie by 10am, so hotfoot it) and smart locals mustard, golf-ball-sized fishcakes, storefronts such as Samsøe chatting over free-range eggs and ham. and the option to mix up to four & Samsøe, which champions Come lunchtime, it’s worth bearing in different varieties in one meal. Scandinavian labels such as mind that the Danes excel at sandwiches. Meanwhile, just around the Filippa K and Whyred. And YDE, The century-old national institution that corner from the National Gallery, one of the city’s rising couture is Ida Davidsen is still going strong, with Aamanns is another take on the stars, produces clothes inspired countless varieties – over 250, in fact – of Danish tavern: sparkling white by Marie Antoinette and worn by smørrebrød, the open-faced sandwiches and minimalist, with homemade soups delights (Norwegian salmon in a lemony the Danish royal family. The place for for which Denmark is famous. Or get and cakes, and organic smørrebrød mayonnaise foam was a standout). iconic Danish housewares, meanwhile, yourself utterly au courant and head to elevated to an art form, topped with Alternatively, head a few blocks south is Normann Copenhagen in the centre of one of two buzzy new arrivals. The Royal razor-thin apple slices or tiny cubes of to the regenerated meatpacking district, town. Even the egg cups are paragons of Cafe, with its pink aprons, pretty flocked quince and local forest mushrooms. where cool bars, cafés, restaurants, gyms clean-lined Scandinavian design genius. wallpapers, custom-made chandeliers For supper, Cofoco, a chic basement and art galleries (of which V1 is the A bit of Copenhagen will come home and Fritz Hansen chairs, has swiftly establishment in hip Vesterbro, is star, showcasing international stars such with you, regardless of whether you make established itself as an ideal stop-out inventive and fresh without being fussy. as Banksy) are creating a sophisticated any purchases. It’s one of those quietly for shoppers, discreetly tucked away as it It’s all about the ingredients here; the edge. Karriere bar, part-owned by local inspirational places that slowly works is just off Strøget, the longest pedestrian menu simply lists what’s in each dish. art star Jeppe Hein, is the place for its way into your heart; the more you shopping street in Europe. It’s given Don’t miss the rhubarb, cardamom and pre-dinner or late-night cocktails – an pick away at it, the more excitements rise to a new culinary phenomenon – white chocolate pudding. In a similarly unreconstructed art-house lair where you unravel. It’s this combination of the “smushi”, which combines the smørrebrød relaxed vein, Madklubben is all unaffected Olafur Eliasson lights tower over obvious and the unexpected – like musk concept and ingredients with those of stylishness, with outrageously good, hot- canteen-style tables. The food is 100 ox and modern cuisine – that has put sushi: tiny, open burgers with creamy from-the-oven bread and Nordic-modern per cent organic Danish and even the Copenhagen firmly on the map. ✦ THE HIT LIST www.cafevictor.dk), €20 for SHOPS Churchillparken (+45-3347 3921; sculpture garden, with views toward breakfast. Cofoco, 7 Abel Cathrines AC Perch, 5 Kronprinsensgade (+45- www.natmus.dk). National Museum, Sweden. 13 Gl Strandvej, Humlebæk HOTELS Gade (+45-3313 6060; www.cofoco. 3315 3562; www.perchs.dk). Meyers 12 Frederiksholm Kanal (+45-3313 (+45-4919 0791; www.louisiana.dk). Prices are for a double room per dk), about £31. Fiskebaren, 100 Deli, 107 Gammel Kongevej (+45- 4411; www.natmus.dk). night with breakfast. Flaesketorvet (+45-3215 5656; www. 3325 4595; www.meyersdeli.dk) and WHEN TO GO Hotel Skt Petri, 22 Krystalgade fiskebaren.dk), about £63. Ida branches. Normann Copenhagen, LESS THAN AN HOUR AWAY July for the jazz festival; September RNILLE (+45-3345 9100; www.hotelskt Davidsen, 70 Store Kongensgade 70 Østerbrogade (+45-3555 4459; Louisiana Museum of Modern Art for Copenhagen Design Week. K. petri.com), from DKr1,495 (about (+45-3391 3655; www.idadavidsen. www.normann-copenhagen.com). (pictured below) is home to over £170). Hotel Twentyseven, 27 dk), about £22 with beer. Karriere, YDE, 5 Ny Adelgade (+45-8813 6533; 3,000 works. Enjoy lunch in the HOW TO GET THERE Løngangstraede (+45-7027 5627; 57 Flaesketorvet (+45-3321 5509; www.yde-copenhagen.com. Daisy Finer travelled as a www.hotel27.dk), from £141. Nimb, www.karrierebar.com), about guest of Kirker (020-7593 5 Bernstorffsgade (+45-8870 0000; £80. Madklubben, 66 Store SIGHTS 1899; www.kirkerholidays. www.nimb.dk), from £350. Kongensgade (+45-3332 3234), Danish Museum of Art com), which offers three €60. Noma, 93 Strandgade (+45- & Design, 68 Bredgade nights at Nimb, including RESTAURANTS, CAFES, BARS 3296 3297; www.noma.dk), about (+45-3318 5656; www. flights from Heathrow and Prices are for a three-course meal £125 for tasting menu (no wine). kunstindustrimuseet.dk). transfers, from £968 per with half a bottle of wine. The Paul, 3 Vesterbrogade (+45- Davids Samling, 30 person. British Airways Aamanns, 10 Øster Farimagsgade 3375 0775; www.thepaul.dk), about Kronprinsessegade flies from Heathrow six (+45-3555 3344; www.aamanns. £78. The Royal Cafe, 6 Amagertorv (+45-3373 4949; www. times daily, from £108. dk), about £8 for lunch. Café Victor, (+45-3312 1122; www.theroyalcafe. davidmus.dk). Museum EasyJet flies twice daily 8 Ny Ostergade (+45-3313 3613; dk), about £19 for smushi lunch. of Danish Resistance, from Gatwick, from £53. CLAES BECH-POULSEN/NIMB. LOUISIANA MUSEUM OF MODERN AGER. ART. © PAW PE DANISHKLEMP, MUSEUM OF ART & DESIGN. STEEN LARSEN. WWW.KARRIEREBAR.D 22 howtospendit.com 261_smooth_guide.PRESS.indd 2 05/04/2011 14:03.
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