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Exploring by tram

Trams are a convenient and simple way to get around Amsterdam. But even more than just a way to get from A to B, a tram ride can be a sightseeing tour in itself, taking in some of the city’s best sights and attractions along the way.

There are three tram routes (1, 2 and 5) that travel up and down a central ‘spine’ of Amsterdam, from Centraal Station to Museumplein and back again. Tram #1, #2 and #5

Stop: Centraal Station

As Amsterdam’s main transport hub, Centraal Station is a familiar starting point for most visitors to the city. The spectacular building opened its doors in 1889, and was designed by architect Pierre Cuypers, who also designed the Rijksmuseum.

What to see and do:

• Check out the vintage shops, hip cafes and arty design stores of vibrant Haarlemmerstraat to the west • Take the free ferry from behind Centraal Station to trendy Amsterdam Noord • Explore Oosterdok to the east of the station, making sure to take in the view of the city from NEMO’s rooftop terrace and stop for a drink at Hannekes Boom.

From Centraal Station, the tram heads south down Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal, once the city’s defence line (‘burgwal’ means ‘bastion wall’).

Stop: Nieuwezijds Kolk

Continue south, passing behind the impressive Nieuwe Kerk on your left. Despite being called ‘New ’, this imposing monument actually dates from the 15th century and is only ‘new’ in relation to the nearby Oude Kerk (old church) which was deemed too small to be the parish church of Amsterdam’s expanding population in 1408. No longer used for worship, the Nieuwe Kerk now hosts regular exhibitions and events.

Stop: Dam

You’re now in the heart of Amsterdam, on the edge of the city’s most important public square. You’ll need to hop off the tram to visit Dam Square itself, which is concealed from view by the Royal and Nieuwe Kerk. What to see and do:

• Visit Dam Square, home to the Royal Palace and Nieuwe Kerk. • A four minute walk east along narrow Molsteeg and Torensteeg alleys will bring you to the inner canal ring, and the historic Torensluis . This excessively wide bridge once formed the foundations of a tower, the dungeons of which are still visible underneath the bridge. • Take an eight minute walk to Anne Frank House, Homomonument and Westerkerk to the west, or the Red Light District to the east.

The tram now continues south, passing the Amsterdam Museum on the left and the famous Haesje Claes restaurant on the right (an ornate Dutch restaurant spread over six historic houses) before stopping at Spui.

Stop: Spui

Spui is a great place to get off and explore. From the historic cobbled square itself, known for its literary connections thanks to a selection of book stores and a weekly book market, a short walk in any direction will take you to a range of interesting spots.

What to see and do:

• Just behind Spui square is the hidden courtyard of the Begijnhof. This cluster of medieval houses arranged around a pretty courtyard has provided refuge and sanctuary to Beguine women since the 14th century and makes for a tranquil experience in the heart of the city. • Just across the Singel canal from Spui is the edge of the 9 Streets shopping district – a quaint maze of lanes and canals lined with beautiful clothing boutiques, artisan traders and vintage stores. • Discover ancient treasures and artefacts at the Allard Pierson museum, a three minute walk to the east.

From Spui, the tram now leaves the central part of Amsterdam and heads south-east into the canal ring. The first canal you’ll cross is Singel, the inner most waterway of the canal ring which served as a moat around the city until its expansion in 1585.

Stop: Koningsplein

This busy square connecting the Singel and Herengracht canals isn’t the prettiest thanks to its hectic maze of criss-crossing tram tracks, bikes lanes and roads, but it’s a well-connected focal point for exploring a range of museums and attractions – not to mention Amsterdam’s main shopping high streets. What to see and do:

• Discover the story of Amsterdam’s canals at the Grachtenhuis (canal house) museum • Pick up some fresh blooms at Amsterdam’s world famous floating flower market which lines the Singel from Koningsplein • Shop til you drop on Amsterdam’s main shopping thorughfares, Kalverstraat, Heiligeweg (to the north) and Leidsestraat (to the south). • For some culture with a feline twist, walk two minutes along the Herengracht canal to the Kattencabinet (cat cabinet) – a museum dedicated entirely to cats

From Koningsplein, the tram continues south, crossing over three canals and stopping at two, both of which make great points to disembark and explore the many delights of the canal ring.

Stops: Keizersgracht, Prinsengracht, Leidseplein

You’re now out of the canal ring and heading through infamous nightlife hub Leidseplein. Here you’ll find some of Amsterdam’s leading music venues and theatres, not to mention an overwhelming selection of bars, restaurants and nightclubs.

What to see and do:

• Get out here for music venues like Melkweg and Paradiso, theatres DeLaMar and Stadsschouwburg, and the Pathe City multiplex cinema • From here it’s a short walk across the bridge to the northern end of Vondelpark, Amsterdam’s largest park.

Here, tram route 1 veers off along the Overtoom (a buzzing street lined with bars, cafes and trendy design stores) while numbers 2 and 5 continue along to the Rijksmuseum and Museumplein.

Stop: Rijksmuseum (#2 & #5 only)

What to see and do:

- Visit the world-famous Rijksmuseum, with its vast collection of Golden Age masterpieces and priceless works

- Soak up the cultural atmosphere of Museumplein, (don’t forget to have your picture taken at the I amsterdam sign!)

- Wander through Museumplein to visit the Van Gogh Museum, the Stedelijk Museum and the Royal Concertgebouw concert hall.

Travel information Tickets & Zones

2 and 3 zones The system is based on a number of zones. For the trip from the airport to the centre you will need a three zone ticket. When travelling around in the inner city, you usually only need two zones.

Valid for an hour The Metro, bus and train Two and three-zone tickets are valid for one hour’s travel from the moment it is issued and validated. So you can hop services have a fully on and off as much as you like as long as you begin your integrated ticket system last journey within the valid time. Sales points in greater You can purchase single tickets and City Passes from the Metro ticket machines located in all Metro stations. The machines accept Danish coins and all major credit cards. – when you buy a ticket Alternatively you can purchase tickets from the train ticket outlets or go to 1415.dk where you can buy tickets for the Metro you can use online. it on the buses and trains Timetable as well. The Metro runs 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. In the daytime every 2– 6 minutes, at night every 15 – 20 minutes.

Don’t travel without a ticket You cannot buy tickets on the Metro train (or train for that matter), so please buy a ticket before you get on, otherwise you may face a fine of DKK 750. Travel information

City Pass Prices Buy a City Pass and travel as much as you like on the Metro, bus and train within zones 1 - 4 (this includes all January 2013 of central Copenhagen and journeys to and from the airport). There are two versions, 24 hours and 72 hours. Order at 1415.dk/citypass 2 zones 3 zones Single tickets (most of the (to and from City centre) the airport) Copenhagen Card DKK DKK With a Copenhagen Card in hand, you can travel for free in all of the Copenhagen area. You also have free entry Adult single ticket to about 75 museums and attractions, and discounts on 16 years and up 24 36 restaurants, car hire, shops and sights. Child, aged under 12 travelling with a paying adult Free * Free * Read more at woco.dk

Child, aged under 16, single ticket 12 24 Children Up to two children under the age of 12 travel for free when accompanied by an adult with a valid ticket. 24 hours 72 hours City Pass zones 1-4 zones 1-4

Adult 75 190

Child, aged under 12 travelling with a paying adult Free * Free *

Child, aged under 16 40 95

24 hours 72 hours Copenhagen Card

Adult, 16 years and up 249 ** 479 **

Child 0-9 years, travelling with a paying adult Free * Free *

Child, 10-15 years 119 ** 239 **

* Maximum two children per paying adult ** Prices January 2013 Sightseeing with the Metro Useful words museum, known for its exhibition of ’s crown jewels. Every day at noon, guards march from the barracks outside Rosenborg through the city to the other royal palace, , for the changing of the guard. The surrounding park, King´s Garden, is very popular with locals.

Metro station: Nørreport Turn left down Nørre Voldgade, then right down . Hello (informal) – hej Goodbye (informal) – hej hej The Round Tower Built as an observatory in the 17th century by King Thank you – tak Christian IV The Round Tower is now mainly worth a visit because of its great views of the city and its spectacular Excuse me – undskyld (mig) 209 metre long spiral ramp which winds its way upwards Sorry – undskyld (with some stairs right at the top). It is also used as a gallery. Yes – ja No – nej Metro station: Nørreport Walk straight ahead, crossing the streets to the pedestrian Cheers – skål shopping street and continue straight ahead for 400 metres. Numbers One – en – local life & Zoo Two – to Frederiksberg is a municipality within Copenhagen. Three – tre It has a different, greener, wealthy and quieter feel to Four – fire it. The central park, Frederiksberg Have, is a romantic Five – fem landscaped garden. The park offers you a free view of the Six – seks elephants at , which is situated adjacent Seven – syv to the park. Eight – otte Nine – ni Metro station: Frederiksberg Ten – ti Walk straight ahead and turn right onto Falkoner Alle. After about 700 metres you will find the entrance on your Where is the nearest Metro station? right. – Hvor er den nærmeste Metro station? FROM ONE SQUARE TO ANOTHER

The squares in the city were established at different times during history for specific practical or representative purposes. In recent years many of them have been beautifully renovated, and today th...

www.dac.dk Made by Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center FROM ONE SQUARE TO ANOTHER

CONTENTS Projects: 14 Date: June 14. 2016 By Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center

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3 7 6 4 9 8 5 14 10 13

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AMALIENBORG PALACE SQUARE The octagonal palace courtyard is the central square in the ... Page 8

THE MARBLE CHURCH The architect of Marmorkirken, professor Ferdinand Meldahl, ... Page 10

SAINT ANNAE SQUARE Sankt Annæ Plads was established in the 1750s in connection ... Page 12

THE PLAYHOUSE There is general agreement that the new Playhouse of The Roy... Page 13

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www.dac.dk Made by Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center FROM ONE SQUARE TO ANOTHER

CONTENTS Projects: 14 Date: June 14. 2016 By Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center

THE The Metro consists of three lines; and a fourth is under con... Page 15

THE KING'S NEW SQUARE The square, encircled by buildings on five sides, was paved ... Page 17

TRINITATIS CHURCH SQUARE Trinitatis Kirkeplads was established in 1982 in connection ... Page 19

GRÅBRØDRE SQUARE Gråbrødretorv was not planned as a square. Over time the squ... Page 21

SQUARE OF OUR LADY Frue Plads originally served as cemetery of Vor Frue Kirke (... Page 22

THE OLD SQUARE AND THE NEW SQUARE and can be traced all the way back to the ... Page 23

BERTEL THORVALDSEN'S SQUARE The architect of Thorvaldsens Museum, Gottlieb Bindesbøll, a... Page 24

CHRISTIANSBORG PALACE SQUARE Christiansborg Slot () on i... Page 26

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www.dac.dk Made by Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center FROM ONE SQUARE TO ANOTHER

CONTENTS Projects: 14 Date: June 14. 2016 By Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center

HØJBRO SQUARE Højbro Plads had its name after the bridge that leads toChri... Page 27

AMAGERTORV belongs with the oldest thoroughfares in Copenhag... Page 28

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www.dac.dk Made by Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center FROM ONE SQUARE TO ANOTHER

FROM ONE SQUARE TO ANOTHER

The squares in the city were established at different times during history for specific practical or representative purposes. In recent years many of them have been beautifully renovated, and today they mainly serve as refuges in a hectic city. The squares provide a breathing space and an opportunity to acquaint oneself with the architecture from another perspective than the narrow street spaces permit.

We start our tour in the city's most dignified square - Amalienborg Slotsplads (Amalienborg Palace Square) in . The square is octagonal and its design strongly accentuates the axes that converge in the middle right where the equestrian statue of Frederik V is standing. He is looking towards Marmorkirken (the Marble Church), which stands at the end of shining with the recently renovated facade and golden dome. If he turned his head, he would see the gorgeous perspective view down or notice that he is riding on one of the most beautiful floors in the city, laid in detailed patterns of rough granite and delicate mosaic.

The four identical rococo encircle the square. Each facade is facing a different point of the compass, and this gives the spectator a unique possibility to study how the changing daylight influences the appearance of a facade. In sunlight the facade is light as wedding cake decoration, in shade it appears heavy, while gleams of light give depth to the facade because of the shadows thrown by the details. It is not easy to leave this scenery, but many squares are waiting ahead, and we therefore leave through the colonnade to Amaliegade. The columns of the colonnade are exact replicas of the marble columns in the Athena temple in Turkey with the exception that these are made of timber.

At the end of Amaliegade we cross Sankt Annæ Plads (Saint Annae Square). The square has taken its unusually long and narrow form from the canal that used to run into the harbour at the end of the square. It is by the way at this end, and offset from the axis, that the new playhouse of the Royal Theatre is built. The square itself is carved up in peaceful green spaces, and both sides are bordered by cool, white mansions, which give the urban space a fashionable look.

The fashionable is replaced by charm as soon as we catch the diagonal Store Strandstræde with the coloured facades. Store Strandstræde leads us directly to the traffic centrifuge of (the King's New Square). Kongens Nytorv is the city's largest square, so big that even The Royal Theatre and the heavy red palace, Charlottenborg, seem small in the entirety. We are automatically drawn towards the centre of the square to Krinsen (the elliptical ring of trees), which provides long views down and - another example of how the early city plan can still be read: Holmens Kanal is yet another filled-in canal. Now Copenhagen’s new metro line runs under the ground here. In front of the department store of Magasin we notice the five pyramid-shaped skylights that guide daylight all the way down to the platforms.

We leave Kongens Nytorv of inner Copenhagen's longest street, Gothersgade, walk along the green urban space, Kongens Have (the King's Garden), turn left on Landemærket, and again on Pilestræde to get to the peaceful Trinitatis Plads (Trinitatis Square). In the otherwise flat Copenhagen we notice that it is necessary to go up several steps of an unusual, three-sided flight of steps. Trinitatis Kirke () forms a quiet wall in the inconspicuous square. Some corbels, which were formerly bedded into the church, have been given legs to serve as benches, and now look like small, eager

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www.dac.dk Made by Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center FROM ONE SQUARE TO ANOTHER animals heading across the square. We follow them on to Købmagergade, cross over to and follow to Gråbrødretorv.

On Gråbrødretorv (Gråbrødre Square) we find a harmonious row of the frequently mentioned conflagration houses. A certain type of houses with brick-built facades that were made compulsory after the big fire in 1728 to prevent another disaster. Another essential element in the square is the big plane tree, which shields the square towards Niels Hemmingsens Gade more beautifully than any building might have done it.

We take Kejsergade back to Skindergade and continue to Fiolstræde, where Frue Plads is bordered by Vor Frue Kirke (the Cathedral Church of Our Lady), and the Metropolitan School. Originally this area was a cemetery, but today we walk on yet another of the city's beautiful floors with patterns of coloured granite. It is a large square, but the paving, the abundant details on the university facade and the old streetlights fill the large urban space in a way that it never seems empty.

The oldest square and the newest place From the front stairs of Vor Frue Kirke (Cathedral Church of Our Lady) in Nørregade we can see the squares Gammeltorv and Nytorv (the Old Square and the New Square). Gammeltorv is the oldest square in the city, and its irregular form testifies to the fact that urban planning in medieval times was not as straightforward as it became later on. The buildings around the square are irregular, too, in the sense that they represent widely different styles, 's modernist Stelling's House with the round corner and charcoal grey steel facade being one extreme and a Rosenborg replica another. The Caritas fountain is a unifying element in the fuzzy square.

Nytorv is otherwise quiet. It is dominated by the monumental Courthouse designed by the architect of Vor Frue Kirke (the Cathedral Church of Our Lady), C.F. Hansen. A few years ago the two squares were given a uniform paving, and today they appear as a coherent urban space. On the same occasion the contours of Copenhagen's 3rd and 4th city halls were marked in the paving.

Walking further down Rådhusstræde we pass by (fountain), the square where the pumping well of the old Christiansborg used to be, before we swing across to Slotsholmen and Bertel Thorvaldsens Plads. The triangular urban space in front of Thorvaldsens Museum has been there for many years, but not until the summer of 2002 was it reshaped and turned into a real square. A round pool serves as a unifying element, and a tree, which before the renewal looked sad and wispy, has now become a subtle element in the composition.

We follow Porthusgade and walk across a beautiful tiled floor through Prins Jørgens Gård (Prince Jørgen's Court), one of the sides of which is formed by Christiansborg and the . The other side is formed by the only remains of the former Christiansborg Slot (Christiansborg Palace), namely The Royal Coach House, which in 1848 was converted into the brilliantly coloured Thorvaldsens Museum and Slotskirken (the Palace Chapel).

Viewed from Christiansborg Slotsplads (Christiansborg Palace Square) it is not difficult to see from the facade that the chapel was designed by the architect, who also designed Vor Frue Kirke (the Cathedral Church of Our Lady) and the Courthouse, which we passed earlier. The shape of the chapel is mathematically constructed: the dome is half the width of the house, and the column hall is of the same width as the dome.

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www.dac.dk Made by Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center FROM ONE SQUARE TO ANOTHER

If we move a little further into the square, we see through Christiansborg's large gateway the Riding Ground Complex, where the royal horses are still stabled. The Palace square is completely dominated by Christiansborg's dark walls, which are built of stones gathered in every parish in the country. The square is a rather diffuse and windswept space to stay on, so we hurry across Højbro Bridge to Højbro Plads, where , the founder of Copenhagen, welcomes us on horseback.

The square wasn't originally laid out as a square, but as a fire protection lane. Until a fire in 1795 the site was occupied by a housing complex, but for safety reasons the building was not re-built. The square was renovated a few years ago, but has not really been embraced by the Copenhageners yet. The view from the square through the narrow Lille Kirkestræde is surprising, because the heavy walls of Nicolaj Kirke at the end hinder the eye and leads it upwards to the tower and the sky.

Just as we started, we end the tour with our feet on a patterned surface - this time in Amagertorv. The artist Bjørn Nørgaard created the pattern, which lies like a hand-knotted carpet among the fashionable houses. Amagertorv represents the city's most exquisite example of how the ongoing renovation of Copenhagen's old squares makes new and old form a synthesis.

Written 2005 by Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Danish Architecture Centre

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www.dac.dk Made by Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center FROM ONE SQUARE TO ANOTHER Amalienborg Palace Square

Andreas Trier Mørch, KASB

AMALIENBORG PALACE SQUARE

The octagonal palace courtyard is the central square in the rococo quarter, Frederiksstaden. Amaliegade traverses the square like an axis oriented in one direction, Frederiksgade in the transverse direction. At the end of the axis lies Frederikskirken, or Marmorkirken (the Marble Church). The two streets intersect in the middle of the square, where an equestrian statue of the founder of Frederiksstaden, King Frederik V, is placed.

The square is bordered by four identical rococo palaces, which serve as residence for the royal family. Amalienborg Slot (Amalienborg Palace) and Amalienborg Slotsplads (Amalienborg Palace Square) are considered one of Europe's most distinguished rococo FACTS constructions. Architect

Developers Adelsfamilierne Moltke, Løvenskjold, Levetzau, Brockdorff

Construction Year 1750-1760

Category Byrum

Function Square

Rebuilt In 1794 the neo-classicist colonnade across Amaliegade was erected. The second storey of the eight leaves of the gates that connect the pavilions with the

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www.dac.dk Made by Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center FROM ONE SQUARE TO ANOTHER The Marble Church

Andreas Trier Mørch, KASB

THE MARBLE CHURCH

The architect of Marmorkirken, professor Ferdinand Meldahl, had carefully calculated that a superior residential quarter, placed like two semicircles framing Marmorkirken paid for by C. F. Tietgen, would contribute strongly to the economy of Tietgen's costly church building. So Meldahl designed both the church and the surrounding housing complex, which were completed in 1884. Marmorkirken (Frederikskirken) stands on the axis oriented towards Amalienborg Slotsplads and is a landmark in Nicolai Eigtved's quarter - Frederiksstaden. From the dome of Marmorkirken there is a magnificent view of the entire Frederiksstad.

FACTS

Architect Ferdinand Meldahl

Developers Købmand C. F. Tietgen

Construction Year 1749-1894

Category Kirker

Function Church

Rebuilt In 2000 Erik Møller Architects were in charge of renovating the church.

Address 53, 1260 København K

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www.dac.dk Made by Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center FROM ONE SQUARE TO ANOTHER Saint Annae Square

Andreas Trier Mørch, KASB

SAINT ANNAE SQUARE

Sankt Annæ Plads was established in the 1750s in connection with the construction of the new quarter, Frederiksstaden. The canal lying here at that time (running parallel with ) was covered, and in that way the square had its present boundaries between Bredgade and Kvæsthusgade.The square was not planted up until 1852. The then recently founded Improvement Society of the Capital of Copenhagen won on this occasion one its first main issues. In 1954 the equestrian statue of King Christian X was raised in Sankt Annæ Plads.

FACTS

Developers Staten

Construction Year 1750

Category Byrum

Function Square

Address Sankt Annæ Plads, 1250 København K

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www.dac.dk Made by Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center FROM ONE SQUARE TO ANOTHER The Playhouse

Jens Lindhe

THE PLAYHOUSE

There is general agreement that the new Playhouse of The Royal Theatre is an exceptionally elegant building. Dark brickwork, warm wood, copper and glass are perfectly attuned on the exterior of the building. A sense of harmony thus leads the audience into the open café and restaurant and further into the largest of the three auditoriums at the heart of the building. Here the panoramic view to the waterfront is replaced with an air of intimacy that reinforces the feeling of closeness between the audience and the performers, even when all 650 seats are filled.

The facade of the house is dominated by a continuous upper storey hovering over the FACTS broad harbour promenade that runs around the complete perimeter of the building and is used as an outdoor serving area in the summer. In this way the Playhouse has already Architect after its first year injected new life into the central part of the inner harbour that forms the Lundgaard & Tranberg continuation of Nyhavn. The house has three auditoriums all designed to satisfy modern Developers practical and technical requirements for stage work behind the scenes. The location and Det Kongelige Teater, Kulturministeriet function of the Playhouse has made it possible to incorporate a number of sustainable Construction Year technical solutions, using for instance seawater and surplus heating from the auditoriums to 2008 reduce energy consumption. Category Kultur & Idræt

Function Playhouse, restaurant

Visiting information Guided tours of the building are available. For tickets: Telephone + 45 33 69 69 78 or go to the Visitors Centre at the Royal Theatre at Kongens Nytorv.

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www.dac.dk Made by Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center FROM ONE SQUARE TO ANOTHER The King's New Square

Andreas Trier Mørch, KASB

THE KING'S NEW SQUARE

The square, encircled by buildings on five sides, was paved with cobblestones in 1670, and the equestrian statue of Christian V on horseback was raised in 1688. It is the oldest equestrian statue and royal sculpture in the city. Round 'the Horse' an elliptical ring of trees was planted (Krinsen). It had disappeared when the innermost trees, a dozen of free- growing elms, were planted in the mid-19th century. In 1908 a parterre with ornamental box trees was laid out. Eight years later Krinsen (the ring of trees) was recreated with elm trees, which were kept pruned back.

FACTS

Landscape Architect E. Erstad-Jørgensen, Københavns Kommunes Parkafdeling

Developers Københavns Kommune

Construction Year 1670-1908

Category Byrum

Function Square

Rebuilt In the 1990s the square was renovated. The square was covered with sett paving, the parterre was replanted, and lime trees were replanted along Krinsen.

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www.dac.dk Made by Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center FROM ONE SQUARE TO ANOTHER Trinitatis Church Square

Andreas Trier Mørch, KASB

TRINITATIS CHURCH SQUARE

Trinitatis Kirkeplads was established in 1982 in connection with the restoration of Rundetårn (the Round Tower), Trinitatis Kirke (Trinitatis Church) and the construction of Trinitatis Kirkes Menighedshus (parish hall). Access from Pilestræde is through an alley and via a sculptural flight of steps. The flight of steps, which has two sides with steps and an intermediate ramp, solves the level difference of app. one metre and forms a partition between the orientation of the paving on the church square and in the alley. At the restoration of Rundetårn the old sandstone corbels from the tower platform were laid out on the church square's granite paving and along the ramp, and today the animal-like sculptures serve as benches. FACTS

Architect Inger Exner, Johannes Exner

Landscape Architect Sven-Ingvar Andersson

Developers Trinitatis Kirkes Menighedsråd

Construction Year 1982

Category Byrum

Function Square

Address Købmagergade (mellem 50-54), 1150 København K

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www.dac.dk Made by Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center FROM ONE SQUARE TO ANOTHER Gråbrødre Square

Andreas Trier Mørch, KASB

GRÅBRØDRE SQUARE

Gråbrødretorv was not planned as a square. Over time the square has had varying layouts and been used for different purposes from cloister garth, butchers' stalls, air-raid shelters etc. to the attractive urban space that we know today.

In 1841 the square officially got its present name, but the history of the square can be traced all the way back to the early Middle Ages. The first of the capital's few monasteries was founded then. The monastery was situated in the southwestern corner; the small indentation towards Klosterstræde was probably a part of a cloister garth. Some of the houses lying in the indentation have basements dating from the time of the monastery, FACTS which can still be seen in some of the restaurants that are now lying here. Construction Year The houses surrounding the square have been destroyed and rebuilt several times, first in 1663-1968 the big fires in 1728 and 1795 and then once again after the bombardment in 1807. The Category houses in the square are noteworthy in that the row of houses on the southern side are the Byrum so-called conflagration houses, while the houses on the western side are typical of the Function building style after the bombardment. Square

In 1968 the square was paved with cobblestone, it was turned into a pedestrian area, and Address in 1971 it had its own little fountain, created by the sculptor Søren Georg Jensen. The Gråbrødretorv, 1154 københavn K fountain and the 100-year-old plane tree in the centre are the only decorations in the square.

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www.dac.dk Made by Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center FROM ONE SQUARE TO ANOTHER Square of our Lady

Andreas Trier Mørch, KASB

SQUARE OF OUR LADY

Frue Plads originally served as cemetery of Vor Frue Kirke (the Cathedral Church of Our Lady), and only to the west did the cemetery border directly on Nørregade. In the early Age of the Reformation Fiolstræde was carried through to Skindergade and Store Kannikestræde to Nørregade. After the bombardment in 1807 the cemetery was closed, and the square laid out. In 1853 the square had its present cobblestone paving with the beautiful, star-shaped limestone pattern. Along the wall of the University of Copenhagen there are busts of: Niels Bohr (1965), Japetus Steenstrup (1898), J.F. Schouw (1875), H.N. Clausen (1880), J.N. Madvig (1887), and Vilh. Thomsen (1929). FACTS

Construction Year 1200-1853

Category Byrum

Function Square

Address Frue Plads, 1168 København K

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www.dac.dk Made by Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center FROM ONE SQUARE TO ANOTHER The Old Square and the New Square

Andreas Trier Mørch, KASB

THE OLD SQUARE AND THE NEW SQUARE

Gammeltorv and Nytorv can be traced all the way back to the time of Absalon, where they served as market places. Since then their layouts, buildings and functions have changed several times from market places, city hall squares and parking grounds to the urban spaces they are today. In the 1990s the squares were renovated, and today they appear as one coherent, granite-paved square. The ground plan of Copenhagen's former city hall is marked with kerbstones.

The Caritas fountain in Gammeltorv was built by Christian IV in 1608 to serve as part of the city's water supply. Originally it was a well, from which the citizens could fill their buckets FACTS and barrels with water. And in the meanwhile they might enjoy the sight of the lady at the top of the copper basin. The Caritas fountain is considered one of Copenhagen's finest Developers Renaissance relics. On the Queen's birthday 16 April golden apples play in the jets of water Københavns Kommune in the fountain. Construction Year Formodes grundlagt i starten af det 13. århundrede. -Renoveret i 1606.

Category Byrum

Function Squares

Address Gammeltorv og Nytorv, 1457 København K

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www.dac.dk Made by Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center FROM ONE SQUARE TO ANOTHER 's Square

Andreas Trier Mørch, KASB

BERTEL THORVALDSEN'S SQUARE

The architect of Thorvaldsens Museum, Gottlieb Bindesbøll, also sketched a project for the square in front of the museum. He imagined a round stone basin filled with water in front of the museum, an idea he had seen in 1834 in front of the new-built Altes Museum in Berlin. But he had also seen antique basins in Rome, which were used as fountains in the city. Bindesbøll imagined that the square would also be fitted with a replica of Thorvaldsen's self-portrait statue and a couple of benches. The rest of the square should be left empty. Bindesbøll's project was never realised; instead the square was laid out with a lawn and beech trees. FACTS

Architect Michael Gottlieb Bindesbøll

Developers Staten

Construction Year 1848

Category Byrum

Function Square

Rebuilt In 2001 the square was remodelled by landscape architect Torben Schønherr. It was paved with large cobblestones, and in the centre of the square a reflecting pool with a diameter of 16 metres made

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www.dac.dk Made by Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center FROM ONE SQUARE TO ANOTHER Christiansborg Palace Square

Andreas Trier Mørch, KASB

CHRISTIANSBORG PALACE SQUARE

Christiansborg Slot (Christiansborg Palace) on Slotsholmen in Copenhagen was built for the country's three supreme powers: the royal power, the legislative power and the judicial power. As a result of two serious fires in 1794 and 1884 the palace complex bears testimony to three eras of Danish architecture. The main palace from 1928 in the historicist neo- style is the third Christiansborg on the site, the Palace chapel is from the second, neo-classicist Christiansborg from the 19th century, and the Riding Ground complex has survived from the first, luxurious baroque palace built in the 18th century.

The present and third Christiansborg is the result of an architectural competition that was FACTS held in 1905 and won by the architect Thorvald Jørgensen. Architect The square is paved with cobblestones laid in a pattern, and the only decoration is Vilhelm Thorvald Jørgensen Bissen's equestrian statue from 1873 of Frederik VII. The statue is not very heroic, rather Construction Year convivial, like the many myths that were circulating about the peculiar monarch. 1733-1740

Category Byrum

Function Square

Address Christiansborg Slotsplads, 1218 København K

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www.dac.dk Made by Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center FROM ONE SQUARE TO ANOTHER Højbro Square

Andreas Trier Mørch, KASB

HØJBRO SQUARE

Højbro Plads had its name after the bridge that leads to Christiansborg Slot, Slotskirken (the Palace chapel) and Thorvaldsens Museum.Højbro Plads was established after the fire in 1795 by avoiding rebuilding a block between two alleys running between Amagertorv and Stranden (The Beach). The square was intended as a fire-protective measure.Earlier Højbro Plads was used for vegetable and flower market, but today the cafés in the square offer outdoor service during the summer months. In 1902 the statue of bishop Absalon was raised in the square, and under the bridge we find Suste Bonnen's sculpture of Agnete og Havmanden (figures from an old Danish folk song). It is worthwhile to go see it at night when it is illuminated and therefore a quite exceptional spectacle. FACTS

Architect Ukendt

Construction Year 1795

Category Byrum

Function Square

Address Højbro Plads, 1200 København K

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www.dac.dk Made by Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center FROM ONE SQUARE TO ANOTHER Amagertorv

Andreas Trier Mørch, KASB

AMAGERTORV

Amagertorv belongs with the oldest thoroughfares in Copenhagen, as it would connect the village around Gammeltorv with the market place on Stranden by Nikolaj Plads. Many of the houses around the square are well-preserved renaissance houses. In 1894 Edvard Petersen and 's sculpture, Storkespringvandet (the ) was raised in the square.

In 1962 the square was partly closed for traffic in connection with the establishing of pedestrian streets, and in 1993 the square was renovated and decorated by the artist Bjørn Nørgård. The square had a new paving with an exuberant pattern of granite pentagons in FACTS the colours: rose, yellow, black and grey. The very structure of the city in this spot has not changed since medieval times. Just like then Amagertorv is the city's central market place, Artists a climax on today's lengthy market - Strøget. Bjørn Nørgaard Category Byrum

Function Square

Address Amagertorv, 1160 København K

Source Arkitektur DK 1-1996; Den præmierede by, Arkitektens Forlag, 2003

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www.dac.dk Made by Susanne Pouline Svendsen, Dansk Arkitektur Center City Walk: Slotsholmen Walk, Copenhagen, Denmark Page 2 of 5

Slotsholmen Walk - Route Map ALL CITIES MOBILE APP ARTICLES LOG IN

+ -

Leaflet | © OpenStreetMap contributors

Guide Name: Slotsholmen Walk Guide Location: Denmark » Copenhagen Guide Type: Self-guided Walking Tour (Sightseeing) # of Attractions: 6 Tour Duration: 1 hour(s) Travel Distance: 1.3 km Author: EmmaS

1) Thorvaldsens Plads Antique Market Thorvaldsens Plads Antique Market gathers antique lovers and collectors from all over the country. The flea market is organized every Friday and Saturday, from April to October, at Thorvaldsens Plads. Its stalls offer a wide array of goods among which you can find some exceptional pieces such as Royal Danish blue porcelain, a crystal vase or a genuine item of Georg Jensen silver. The market, which specializes in contemporary art, also has a large selection of paintings and sculptures.

...

Image Courtesy of Flickr and Aslaug Jonsdottir

http://www.gpsmycity.com/tours/slotsholmen-walk-3555.html 6/17/2016 City Walk: Slotsholmen Walk, Copenhagen, Denmark Page 3 of 5

2) Thorvaldsens Museum Bertel Thorvaldsen was a very popular Danish neoclassicistic sculptor who lived in Rome between 1796 and 1838. The ALL CITIES MOBILE APP ARTICLES LOG IN is dedicated to this famous artist. Located next to the Christiansborg Palace in central Copenhagen on the island of Slotsholmen, the museum was designed and constructed between 1838 1848 by Michael Gottlieb Bindesboll.

One look at the building and you will be struck by its antique Greek architecture. There is an inner courtyard where Thorvaldsen is buried and...

Image Courtesy of Wikimedia and Mahlum

3) Christiansborg Palace Christiansborg Palace is located in central Copenhagen on the Slotsholmen islet. This palace serves as the Danish Supreme Court and the Danish Prime Minister’s Office apart from being the functioning center of the Danish Parliament. Parts of the palace such as the palace chapel, Royal Reception Rooms and the are used by the royal family.

Christiansborg Palace is thus home to Denmark’s judicial power, legislative power and executive power. Currently this Danish State owned...

Image Courtesy of Flickr and Nigel's Europe

4) The Old Stock Exchange One of the greatest builders and architects of Copenhagen, King Christian IV constructed the Old Stock Exchange building. This is the oldest building in the city that served as a trade and financial center. The Danish stock market functioned in this building till 1974 after which it was relocated to modern facilities.

King Christian IV constructed this impressive building right at the entrance of Copenhagen where it continues to serve as a prestigious landmark. The building stands as a...

Image Courtesy of Flickr and Ewan-M

5) Royal Library One of the most impressive libraries in the is the Royal Library in Copenhagen. This is Denmark’s national library and is also used by the University of Copenhagen. At this library you will find a rich collection of historical treasures collected meticulously from the 17th Century. Generous donations through ages have helped

http://www.gpsmycity.com/tours/slotsholmen-walk-3555.html 6/17/2016 Page 1 of 1

https://discoverstudyabroad.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/map-of-nc3b8rrebro.jpg 6/17/2016 Copenhagen architecture tour Nørreport Station

Illustration: COBE og Gottlieb Paludan Architects. Projektkonkurrence 2009

NØRREPORT STATION

It was never for fun that you turned up at the old Nørreport Station. You were bound to be standing in someone's way, the stairs looked like the set for a horror film, and it took forever to find your bike. But the rebuilding of Nørreportwill make all these issues a thing of the past.

The new Nørreport is an open, cohesive space with clear and easily accessible facilities, created out of your very footsteps. A study of pedestrians' preferred routes at Nørreportwas the actual basis for the design of the new station. Movement analysis showed how pedestrians move most naturally across the square, at the same time as identifying the FACTS areas, where there is not much traffic. Buildings, bicycle parking and other facilities are located organically, so that instead of creating obstacles, they generate a good flow across Developers the square. The square is dominated by round shapes, which create a coherent look Københavns Kommune without 'back ends' or nooks and crannies. Bicycle parking is distributed over the entire Construction Year square in small 'islands', which are sunken to a depth of 30-40 cm, so you are in no doubt 2011-2015 as to where to park your bike. Category Transport og infrastruktur The new station buildings will be covered by one large organically shaped roof, which will unite the buildings and provide shelter from the elements. In the open areas there is space Architect for street life, seating, shops and outdoor eating. All bus and car traffic is concentrated on COBE / Gottlieb Paludan Architects. the Nørrebroside, so the open space can flow naturally over into the pedestrian streets of Projektkonkurrence 2009 Fiolstræde and Købmagergade. Address Nørre Voldgade 13, 1358 København K

Read more:

www.nynoerreport.dk

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www.dac.dk Made by JB Copenhagen architecture tour The National Gallery of Denmark (SMK) Gardens

Illustration af den nye have ved Statens Museum for Kunst. Illustration: Polyform Arkitekter

THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF DENMARK (SMK) GARDENS

The gardens in front of the National Gallery of Denmark are to be restructured. The meticulous, baroque-style gardens will be transformed into a green, pulsating meeting place, with plenty of room for art to go grazing.

The idea is to open up the Gallery's gardens, both on the city side and on the side facing the green Østre Anlæg park, which is located behind the National Gallery of Denmark. The gardens will become a wide open, verdant breathing space in the city, where people can hang out and enjoy art in a public park. One of the main goals of the new gardens is to move art out of the Gallery and into the public space, allowing visitors to encounter art in a FACTS totally different setting, and on a completely different scale. The gardens will provide a perfect space for the presentation of XXXL-size art. Developers Københavns Kommune

The young practice Polyform have been given the responsibility of Construction Year unfettering the enormous potential of the Gallery's 7,500 square metres and guiding "SMK 2011-2014 back to the park", as the title of the project makes clear. The new Gallery gardens are also Category part of an even greater ambition to create cohesion and continuity between all the Park Kultur & Idræt, Byrum museums and will make it easier to move from one park to another, and from one museum to the next. Architect Polyform / Karres en Brands The restructuring of the Gallery gardens is in full swing and completion is expected in Landschapsarchitechten

2014. Address Sølvgade 48-50, 1307 København

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www.dac.dk Made by JB Copenhagen architecture tour

Andreas Trier Mørch, KASB

COPENHAGEN CITY HALL

The architect wanted a building that would be monumental and distinguished, yet at the same time informal and popular. The main form of the building is inspired by the city hall in Siena (Italy), though it also holds a significant value of its own as a national romantic construction displaying the very best workmanship that that time could muster.
The city hall is a massive brick building resting on a granite ashlar base. The thickness decreases upwards, though, so that for instance the thickness at the base of the tower is 10 bricks, which at the top has been reduced to 5. The masonry is made of red machine- moulded bricks laid in English bond with flush joints. Scattered around the facades are many elements of patterned brickwork, for instance the framing of the main entrance with FACTS bricks laid on the wall surface. The corners of the granite bases have built-in stone benches Architect with board games scratched into the seats. Since its erection such subtleties and fine Martin Nyrop workmanship have made the city hall loved by citizens and users. Developers Københavns Kommune

Construction Year 1905

Category Offentlige institutioner

Function City Hall

Address Rådhuspladsen, 1550 København V

Source Arkitektur Guide København, Arkitektens Forlag, 2001; Torben Dahl og Ola

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www.dac.dk Made by JB Copenhagen architecture tour The

Andreas Trier Mørch, KASB

THE BLACK DIAMOND

The building was raised as an addition to The Royal Library's older building complex. With the simple main shape built in steel, glass and black granite, the library is a typical example of the prevailing neo-modernist style at the brink of the 21st century. The black facades are clad in polished, African granite, which is the reason for the name The Black Diamond. Midway a gigantic slit cuts the house in two, providing a fabulous view over the harbour from within; this feature has made the escalator in the foyer a popular goal for tourists. The ground floor contains restaurant and bookshop, concert hall and lecture hall as well as exhibition space. FACTS

Architect schmidt hammer lassen

Developers Kulturministeriet

Artists Caroline Kragh, Per Kirkeby, Mathilde Aggerbo, Julie Henriksen, Elisabeth Taubro

Construction Year 1999

Category Kultur & Idræt

Function Library, reading room, restaurant, shop, conference facilities etc.

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www.dac.dk Made by JB Copenhagen architecture tour The

Andreas Trier Mørch, KASB

THE COPENHAGEN OPERA HOUSE

The Copenhagen Opera House stands at the end of the historical axis running from Marmorkirken (the Marble Church) and Amalienborg. With its 158 m long and 90 m wide roof the large building is visible from all over the inner harbour. The building contains more than 1,000 rooms. It totals 41,000 distributed on 14 storeys, five of which are below ground. The main auditorium of the opera house accommodates an audience of 1,500 persons, and the experimental stage seats approx. 200 persons.
Beneath the large roof a large grille shields the foyer room and the auditorium. The foyer area's flooring is of Sicilian Perlatino marble, and the shell of the auditorium is clad in stained maple. The main auditorium is adorned with a 24-carat gold leaf ceiling.
The entire facade of the house FACTS is clad with the South German limestone Jura Gelb. The front plaza and quaysides are Architect paved with Chinese granite.
Architects

Developers A..P. Møller, hustru Chastine Mc-Kinney Møllers Fond til almene Formaal

Artists Per Kirkeby, , , Tal R, Erik A. Frandsen, Sonny Tronborg, Lars Nørgaard, Pia Andersen, Jesper Christiansen, Niels Erik Gjerdevik, Kasper Bonnén.

Construction Year 2004

Category Kultur & Idræt

Function

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www.dac.dk Made by JB Copenhagen architecture tour

Arkitektfirmaet C. F. Møller

AMERIKA PLADS

Amerika Plads (meaning America Square) gets its name from the large passenger ships that back in the day transported Danish immigrants to New York. The area contains 650 homes, 2.500 work places and 130 hotel apartments.

The architectonic landmarks of the square are the housing building Fyrtårnet towards the south designed by Lundgaard & Tranberg and the office building Kobbertårnet towards the north designed by Arkitema. Furthermore, you can see a range of newly constructed buildings that are part of the master plan of Amerika Plads. FACTS The masterplan designed by Adrian Geuze and Dutch architecture firm West 8 aimed to create a dense and active city environment with multiple functions and a varied Architect architecture. One of the tasks of the involved architecture firms was to create courtyards West 8 that are all accesible to the public so as to expand the street areas and create life and Developers movement between the buildings. Københavns Havn A/S (nu Arealudviklingsselskabet I/S), TK Note the old station, Frihavnsstation, from 1895 that was put in storage during construction Development A/S, Sjælsø Gruppen and is now located in the middle of Amerika Plads, in use as a café. Construction Year 2009 Category Byplanlægning

Function Housing, shops, hotel apartments, office buildings

Visiting information Public acces to square and inner courtyards of housing buildings.

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www.dac.dk Made by JB Copenhagen architecture tour Seed Silo -

Purple Snail, Flickr Creative Commons

SEED SILO - GEMINI RESIDENCE

The conversion of the seed silo in Copenhagen's Havnestad is a fine example of contemporary uses of former industrial buildings along Copenhagen's waterfront. The three silos: the Seed Silo, the Wennberg Silo and the Press Silo were all part of the gigantic Soya Been Cake Factory, once the biggest workplace in Copenhagen which spanned the full length of the waterfront on . All three buildings have now been converted into exclusive apartments.

The original Seed Silo consisted of two raw, bare concrete cylinders 25 metres in diameter. This provided the biggest challenge: how to retain the authenticity of and at the FACTS same time modernise it. It would have been difficult to cut large holes in the concrete structures, and if apartments had been located inside the silo cores, they would face Architect inward, away from the surroundings and the view. So they were placed in ring-shaped MVRDV, JJW additions on the outside of the two concrete cylinders, whose form is still visible at street Landscape Architect level. The apartments have outer walls of glass and wide balconies, providing panoramic Steen Bisgaard views of the harbour. Both silo cores were covered with a new type of climate screen made Developers of transparent film. The screens form the ceiling over two grandiose stairwells and their NCC round floors. Construction Year 2002-2005 Category Byrum, Boliger

Function Housing

Visiting information No public acces

Address

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www.dac.dk Made by JB Hotel Kong Arthur to Copenhagen Opera House - Google Maps Page 1 of 1

Hotel Kong Arthur to Copenhagen Opera House Bicycle 7.3 km, 26 min

Map data ©2016 Google 1000 ft Google Maps

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SCANDIAGADE COPENHAGEN – THE CITY OF CYCLISTS

Cycling infrastructure and initiatives in Copenhagen – A self guided tour

BRIDGES AND BUSY STREETS URBAN SPACE • Nørrebrogade, Dronning Louises Bro: One of the • “Nørrebroruten”, example of a Green Cycling Route, most busy streets in Copenhagen when it comes and the Super Wedge (“”) – The Green to biking and walking. The street has wide cycle Cycling Routs are a network of Cycling tracks mainly tracks with two lanes, the bridge called Dronning running through green areas and avoiding heavy Lousies Bro (Queen Louise´s Bridge) is a popular city traffic, when crossing heavy traffic crossings are space where mostly young people hang out when made safe by bridge, and traffic lights. the sun is shining, young people also call the bridge This is cycling in relaxed green surroundings in the the most important cat walk in the town. This middle of the city. On the Nørrebro Route you’ll development regarding the bridge as a “hang out” find the Super Wedge, made by the architects place happened when the nørrebrpogade was closed BIG (Bjarke Ingels Groupe), the interior benches, for through going car traffic and the car traffic lampposts ect. are collected from all over the therefore was reduced with 50% (also a Supercycle world, the local community has been involved in Highway). the process. Both the green route and the super Best time: 7.45-8.55 am or 4 – 5 pm wedge an example of cycling and broader urban life integrating. • Torvegade and Knippelsbro, intense cycling traffic: Best time: 7.45-8.55 am or 4 – 5 pm The bridges crossing the harbor is binding the city together and therefore crucial for the daily traffic. • Assistens Kirkegård, breaking down the barriers Torvegade is starting at the bottom of the bridge of the city, opening up the parks and green areas called Knippelsbro. On a regular weekday you will for cycling makes it easier to get around by bicycle find 30.000 cyclists passing through here, among and adds “life” to the cementary, Assistens them lots of people working at the big bank Nordea Kirkegård is a cemetery also used as a park by the or at the foreign office/state department, both Copenhageners. close by. The mayor you are scheduled to interview Best time: All day/afternoon on Saturday lives on Torvegade. Best time: 7.45-8.55 am or 4 – 5 pm CITY OF COPENHAGEN INITIATIVES AND • Bicycle Serpent (Cykelslangen) The Bicycle Serpent COMMUNICATION is a bridge that makes it a lot easier for the cyclists • ITS, Green Wave Nørre Farimagsgade. In Nørre to pass from one level to another, earlier the cyclists Farimagsgade you can experience the some ITS- had to drag their bikes up the stairs from one level solutions, you’ll find LED light in the cycle track to the other, the Bicycle Serpent has replaced the helping the cyclists travel in the right speed to make stairs. it though green light in crossings, screens a telling Best time: 7.45-8.55 am or 4 – 5 pm the cyclist their speed in order to make the cyclists reach the green light in the next crossing. • Along H.C. Andersens Boulevard to Tietgensgade, Best time: All day is a very busy crossing in the city, in the morning there will be a lot of cyclists going to work or study • New bike share system with tablet PC and and a lot of cars and pedestrians, at the City Hall integrated with public transport, many places, the cyclists pass a bicycle counter – counting all the i.e. at Vartov next to city hall. cyclists. Best time: All day Best time: 7.45-8.55 am or 4 – 5 pm • Tilted bin for cyclists can be found on Nørre • You can take your bicycle on the bus outside of Farimagsgade. peak hour, but every bus only has the capacity of 2 Best time: All day bicycles, so it can be difficult to find a good case.

• Foot counter can be found on the corner of Dybbølsgade and Skelbækgade. PARKING Best time: All day • Amagerbro Torv, Bicycle parking, the best access to the city center is by bicycle. • Bicycle counter on the Town Hall Square. Best time: All day Best time: All day • City Hall indoor parking, beautiful and more than • The murial “the cycling girl” – Nørrebrogade 14-16 100 years old, shows that cycling is the part of the is the location of the gable painting “Cykelpigen” , has been used my mayors, painted by the artist Seppo Mattinen. Copenhagen politicians and public servants for 100 years. is rich in symbols implying its status as a city for Best time: Working hours cyclists. Best time: All day • Entrance to Christiansborg, the Parliament, where it has been closed for cars and today only has bicycle • Intersection of Rosenørns Allé and H. C. Andersen’s parking. Boulevard is a unconventional intersection. It is a Best time: All day three way intersection being intersected by Søruten (the Lake Route) which is a Green Cycle Route • Flexparking by Gasværksvejens School, where running along the lakes. The intersection gives cyclists park from 7.30 am – 5.30 pm on the cyclists the ability to pass Åboulevarden freely carparking spots. without conflicting with other road users. This Best time: 7.30 am – 5.30 pm increases the flow while still giving priority to the large number of cyclists. Best time: All day, although most busy between CHILDREN 7.30-9.00 am and 3.00-5.30 pm • 7.50-8.10 School in Sydhavnen, ”Skolen i Sydhavn” (including kindergarten) on . Lots of • ITS Cycle detection has been tested to reduce small kids and parents arriving on bike (or most accidents resulting from cars or trucks turning other schools in the city). right. Cycle detection devices has been established Best time: 7.45-8.10 am in the intersection of H. C. Andersens Boulevard and Tietgensgade. The device indicates cyclists are coming with flashing LED lignts. SHOPPING BY BIKE Best time: All day • Netto at Nørrebrogade by Allersgade, Copenhageners goes shopping by bike, you will see Copenhageners bring home their groceries by cargo BIKES AND PUBLIC TRANSPORT bikes and regular bikes. • Any S-train: Enter the carriage with the bicycle sign, Best time: Late afternoon there will be loads of people taking their bicycle on the train Best time: 7.30-9.00 am and 3.00-5.30 pm

• Any Metro: Cyclists can take their bicycle on the metro outside of peak hour. Best time: All day apart from 7.00-9.00 am and 3.30-5.30 pm sights along the route

31 Torvehallerne 25 Matrikel No 8 26 Multipurpose Space 11 Korsgadehallen 78 Universet Health Centre 119 Nørre Campus 69 Green Lighthouse 34 The Skate Park 14 Fælledklubhuset route 1 Haraldsgade district urban renewal 56 Industrikollegiet NØRREBRO / NOrthwest 13,5 km 24 Bananna Park Bolsjefabrikken (creative space)

At Nørrebro you can see how a concerted effort has New square created new opportunities for relaxation and physical 13 Activity Centre Green Triangle activity in the public space. The bicycle route leads Osramhuset (the Osram building) you through green spaces such as Nørrebroparken, Superkilen and Nordvestparken, all of which constitute 55 Bispebjerg Kollegiet vibrant meeting places for a varied audience. The end- finish 28 Superkilen M AD S BERG VI UAL AP 2007 point of the tour is the bicycle bridge over Ågade, but DSB-arealet (development area) if you feel like it, you can continue from here along the Ågade bridge / 46 Emaljehaven green cycle path towards Frederiksberg (see route 2). Forum st. 79 Sjakket Tour the city on your bike. Follow the six routes to Copenhagen’s new urban areas or see how new 10 Biblioteket architecture breathes life into the city’s older districts. 29 Nordvestparken start 27 Nørrebroparken 107 Green Cycle Routes Danish Architecture Centre / 84 Stenurten Day Care Centre christianshavn st. 110 Ågade Bridge Future CPH Plant Science Center

Read about the numbered projects in the Copenhagen X city guide NEW ARCHITECTURE IN COPENHAGEN or visit ­www.cphx.dk sights along the route

start / finish 36 The Harbour Baths, Islands Brygge 94 Halfdansgade 8 Danish Architecture Centre / christianshavn st. 118 Havnestaden Wennberg silo 50 Gemini Residence 108 117 Havneholmen 48 Havneholmen Housing Blocks 06 DieselHouse 116 Teglholmen Future school Future bridge Future bridge 40 Sømærk 109 Teglværksbroen route 3 115 Koralbadet (future harbour bath) south harbour 13,5 km 51 Metropolis Boat Club

Industry has moved away from Copenhagen’s Nokken harbour front, leaving the space for a range of new Bryggen Syd initiatives. In between the boat clubs, industrial 49 A-House plants and allotment societies in the South Harbour 91 The Aller Building new residential housing, institutions and commercial premises are emerging, eventually converting the 86 Rigsarkivet harbour into Copenhagen’s new recreational space. 89 SEB Bank & Pension MA D S BERG V ISUAL P 2007 See the harbour’s new face and the eclectic mix of HM2 old and new on a bike ride around the South Harbour. Future Kalvebod Bølge Tour the city on your bike. Follow the six routes to 90 Krystallen Copenhagen’s new urban areas or see how new architecture breathes life into the city’s older districts. The Brewery Site Project The Black Diamond 04

Read about the numbered projects in the Copenhagen X city guide NEW ARCHITECTURE IN COPENHAGEN or visit ­www.cphx.dk finish

svanemølle beach / svanemøllen st. sights along the route

02 The Playhouse Kvæsthus harbour pier 120 Holmen 05 The Opera 52 Tietgens Ærgrelse 66 Stokhusgade 82 Multipurpose Hall 111 Langeliniebroen

128 Amerika Plads MADS B ERG V ISUAL MAPS 2007 route 6 62 Fyrtårnet 61 Zinkhuset amerika plads 9,5 km 60 Nordlyset 106 DFDS Ferry Terminal The focus of this tour to Amerika Plads is the 100 Ankeret transformation of the harbour from industrial site 112 Kobbertårnet into a space for experience. The ride takes you by the Danish Royal Theatre’s new buildings in the 129 inner harbour where a new bridge will link the city 63 Charlottehaven districts on either side of water. At Amerika Plads a 80 Akvariet Day Nursery new quarter has been built along the waterfront, and further along you cycle past Nordhavnen which is to 81 Krausesvej Day Nursery be developed as a sustainable, future-proof district. 127 Nordhavnen The tour ends at the new Svanemølle Beach where 105 Harbour House II you can take a dip in the sea. 38 Svanemølle Beach Tour the city on your bike. Follow the six routes to 101 Horten Copenhagen’s new urban areas or see how new architecture breathes life into the city’s older districts. 102 Saxobank 103 Punkthuse 104 Sampension

start Read about the numbered projects in the Copenhagen X city guide NEW Danish Architecture Centre / ARCHITECTURE IN COPENHAGEN or christianshavn st. visit ­www.cphx.dk Cycling in Copenhagen is something everyone should experience once in their lives. With almost unrivalled bike infrastructure, certainly outside the , and a mind blowing number of cyclists and bicycles, Copenhagen is a prime example on how a city can rid itself of its oil addiction. Dozens of bicycle enthusiasts, traffic professionals, bicycle evangelicals and environmentalists have made a pilgrimage to the city, in fact 11% of tourists arriving in the city, state that they have come to witness what is known as bicycle nirvana, though its not without its problems. If you are already in the city for unrelated reasons, there is no better way to get around the city's attractions, than breezing along the bicycle tracks feeling like a local for brief moment. Understand

The first bicycles descended on Copenhagen from in the 1890s and in the space of just 17 years, Copenhagen became the hot spot of bicycling in Europe, and until the 1950s the cyclists of the city never looked over their shoulder, and their numbers continued to balloon until Henry Ford's model T, became cheap enough to be sufficiently attractive to appeal to human laziness and yearning for status. For nearly 3 decades Copenhagen then followed the path of most other cities in the world, and the famous bicycle girl who had adorned the classic tourist posters, withered, and became increasingly unattractive to the city's populace.

It took two oil crisis in the 1970’s before the citizens of Copenhagen again opened their eyes to her simplistic beauty, and decided to take a different path than their peers around the world. As Denmark did not have any significant oil reserves a way of preserving fuel had to be found, and urban traffic was one of them. Massive demonstrations to demand space on the roads for bicycles ensued, and slowly but steadily the town hall steered Copenhagen down the road that would lead to Copenhagen becoming one of the leading cities of bicycles in the world, along with Amsterdam.

Time flew by, global warming (which had been theorized about as early as the 1890s) started coming to the fore, Copenhageners continued to bike like they had done for decades, in increasing numbers but without making much of a racket about the fact, until in the 2000s a Canadian photographer revived the old bicycle girl, this time in the modern incarnation of Cycle Chic, and the world began to take note, mayors of world cities like New York and London biked the streets of Copenhagen for inspiration, presidents came, CNN came and suddenly Copenhagenization had entered the vernacular of global dialogue.

While Copenhagen is still one of the leaders, many other cities, especially in the Netherlands, but also medium sized towns in took a similar approach to urban transport in the 1970s and '80s (largely as a response to the oil price shocks of 1973 and the following years), but despite bike culture being important to the residents and local politicians of Münster, Amsterdam or Erlangen their model has attracted much less attention across the borders and especially in the Anglosphere than that of Copenhagen.

Etiquette

While Copenhagen is often hailed as bicycle Nirvana, its not all a dance on roses. There are more bicycles than people in Copenhagen, so biking in the streets of Copenhagen can, and probably will feel, intimidating for even experienced cyclists, as cyclists mostly bike in a brisk pace without much leeway, in a carefully orchestrated ballet of sorts - It takes very little to mess up the harmony. If you have not biked in a city with the modal share of Copenhagen before, you should probably skip the rush hour (7.30-9 and 15-17), even if you consider yourself an experienced cyclist.

And even outside rush hour there is an etiquette - strictly policed, heavily fined laws - to follow. Breaking most of the points below, carries a 700 kroner fine if you are caught by police.

• Boxed turns on left (Copenhagen left), probably the most important rule. Turning left is a two stage process. First you cross the street straight ahead, stop, wait for green or for traffic to clear in case the intersection is unsignaled, and then you cross the street to complete your left turn. • No right on red, you’ll see a few locals doing it anyway, but don’t. • Stay off sidewalks, its never allowed, and if there are cycle lanes, you should also stay off the road, even if the cycle lane feels intimidating. • Keep right to allow other cyclists to overtake you. Cycling is the main mode of transport for citizens here, so people are on their way to work or school, and not biking for leisure. • Keep two hands on the bike • Remember to signal, if you care to avoid crashes this is important, a hand straight up in the air to signals you intend to stop, a hand horizontally to your left or right indicates you intend to turn. • Pay attention to lights and signs, cycling is highly organized here, and both drivers and fellow cyclists expect you to adhere to these, so if you don’t you may cause accidents. • Use bike lights a night, when the streetlights are turned on, it is also mandatory to turn on your bike lights. Police strictly enforce this, and fines are heavy Get in

While most visitors arrive in Copenhagen by plane or cruise ship, and then rent a bike in the city, it’s also possible to arrive by your own wheels on long distance routes. The most popular options are from Berlin and that other bicycle Mecca Amsterdam. There also used to be a ferry from England, offering access from London, but service on it was discontinued in 2014.

From Berlin you can take the Berlin-Kopenhagen Radweg . The journey is around 630 km. Between Denmark and Germany you cross the on the Rostock - Gedser ferry. Once in Denmark follow the signs of national bicycle route 9 to Copenhagen. Fast cyclists need a week to complete this journey, most people take longer.

From Amsterdam you can take a leg on the North Sea Bicycle Route along the North Sea to Denmark. Once you enter Denmark you can either continue along the coast to Esbjerg and follow the same bicycle route 6 to Copenhagen as from London, or you can follow the Hærvej route further inland and join up with route 6 in Vejen. Via Esbjerg it’s a 1860 km trip, so most people will need a few weeks to take this journey. Traffic rules

In Denmark there are a lot of traffic rules for cyclists. We list some of them here, so you can feel safe when you venture out into the cycle traffic. There are so many cyclists in Copenhagen, so it is important to show consideration and respect the rules.

Official Rules

• Stop at red lights. • Keep on the right side. Then other cyclists can overtake you. • Indicate with your hand when you are going to stop and turn, so that other cyclists and road users know what you are doing. • You must have the lights on during the hours when light is mandatory. You recognize those hours by seeing that the streetlights are lit. You need a white light in front and a red light on the back. The lights must meet the police requirements, this is often displayed on the lights when you buy them. • Only one person is allowed on the bicycle, except for children in a child seat. • In Denmark we have a duty to give way, so please show regard at pedestrian crossings, traffic lights and bus stops. • At bus stops cyclists must give way if a bus is coming and pedestrians are getting on the bus. • Use the cycle tracks and the cycle lanes. Riding your bicycle on the pavement or the walkways is prohibited. • In general, be considerate and pay attention to your fellow road users.

The penalty rates for bicycle offences are from DKK 700 to 1000.

Other things you should be aware of as a cyclist

• The bell means that a cyclist coming from behind wants to overtake you. Many cyclists like to move forward quickly. Therefore you should keep to the right if somebody is ringing his/her bell at you. This is also the case if you are driving side by side on the cycle track. When a cyclist wants to overtake you and rings his/her bell at you, then the cyclist to the left must pull in. • Be aware that often there are traffic lights for cyclists. Also, there are many special roads for cyclists, so check out whether there is a faster route to your destination.

You can find a cycle map of Copenhagen at the City of Copenhagens website and download our Selfguided bicycle ride. City Walk: Latin Quarter Tour of Copenhagen, Copenhagen, Denmark Page 2 of 5

Latin Quarter Tour of Copenhagen - Route Map ALL CITIES MOBILE APP ARTICLES LOG IN

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Guide Name: Latin Quarter Tour of Copenhagen Guide Location: Denmark » Copenhagen Guide Type: Self-guided Walking Tour (Sightseeing) # of Attractions: 7 Tour Duration: 1 hour(s) Travel Distance: 0.7 km Author: EmmaS

1) Square Kultorvet Square is where the Danish people used to purchase coal for their ovens and stoves. Also known as the Coal Square, this square today houses many popular bookshops and is a major tourist attraction.

A famous bookshop situated on the side street in Kobmageragade is Arnold Busck. This square is close to the University of Copenhagen and is frequented by college and school students. The book shops here specially focus on books on architecture and art. You will also find an extensive...

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2) Rundetårn The famous 17th century tower known as Rundertarn is located in Central Copenhagen, Denmark. Also known in ALL CITIES MOBILE APP ARTICLES LOG IN English as the Round Tower, it was constructed to serve as an astronomical observatory as a part of Christian IV’s architectural projects. Tourists from all over the world come especially to enjoy the expansive view of Copenhagen from the top of the tower that can be climbed through its 7.5 turn helical corridor.

Astronomy grew to be very important in 17th century Europe and this led...

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3) Arnold Busck Arnold Busck is one of the most well-known bookstores in Copenhagen. It is actually a bookstore chain, and its flagship store is located in the Latin Quarter. The bookshop contains a wide selection of English titles, including a large number of art and architecture books, as well as fiction, science books and more. The place is popular, and many visitors enjoy the Baresso book-cafe on the shop's second floor.

Operation hours: Monday - Thursday: 10 am - 6 pm; Friday: 10 am - 7 pm;...

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4) Church of Our Lady Situated close to the University of Copenhagen, Church of Our Lady is one of the popular churches in the city. This cathedral was constructed in neo-classical style in 1829 by the famous architect Christian Frederik Hansen. Tourists from across the world come here to enjoy the unique architecture and amazing sculptures.

The church is huge in size measuring 33 m in width and 83 m in length. At least 1100 people can be seated in this church if all galleries are left open. There are four church...

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5) Copenhagen University Library One of the main research libraries in Denmark, the Copenhagen University Library. Founded in1582, it is also the oldest library in the city. Located in Fiolstraede in central Copenhagen, the main building of the library is very impressive. It was designed by Johan Daniel Herholdt and completed in 1861.

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The library for medicine and natural sciences is located in Norre Alle. The very first book collection for this library was ALL CITIES MOBILE APP ARTICLES LOG IN donated by Peder Albertsen, vice-rector of the university, in 1482....

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6) Paludan’s Book & Café If you get tired of roaming the busy streets of Copenhagen, take a rest at the romantic, restful Paludan's Café. Located in the Latin Quarter just across from the University Library, Paludan's is a book cafe where you can enjoy a warm drink and a good book. Paludan's sells both used and new books and has a wide selection of fiction and non-fiction books in English, Danish and other languages. The book cafe is a favorite for visitors of all ages and has a great atmosphere, with...

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7) Copenhagen University University of Copenhagen is one of the oldest and largest universities in Denmark. This research institution serves many scholars and students from around the nation and across the world. Copenhagen University was founded in 1479 and imparts knowledge to at least 37,000 students. It employs over 7,000 employees and has many different campuses around the city. The oldest campus is situated in central Copenhagen.

The university attracts many students from Nordic countries. There are over 2800...

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We love them. The streets of Copenhagen. With their charm and distinct flavour. In the inner city we like to stroll down Stræderne with its relaxed atmosphere, small shops and historic houses. Heading out for shopping or wine and cocktails we go to Vesterbro. The Meatpacking District is great for both dining and a night out on the town. Think somewhat artsy, lots of students and great atmosphere. The same can be said for Istedgade where you will find great shopping as well. Don’t miss out on Nørrebro. Colourful and relaxed. Shop at Elmegade and Jægersborggade, and do not forget to try the restaurants. A bit more posh are Østerbrogade and Gammel Kongevej. Deli’s, great clothes and delicacies await you. Here are our favourites.

We also recommend our guide to the neighbourhoods of Copenhagen and our section about shopping. Also, watch the video of our favourite streets.

Jægersborggade

Vibrant, colourful, casual and young at heart. The street Jægersborggade in the neighborhood Nørrebro in Copenhagen has turned from dodgy to hip. Today you will Map data ©2016 Google find Michelin-starred restaurant Rel... Report a map error Items on the list Read more

Værnedamsvej

Kid-friendly, cozy, relaxed and Frenchy. Værnedamsvej is a small, busy shopping street situated between Vesterbro and Frederiksberg. The street is known for its French atmosphere and to many Copenh...

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Istedgade

Different, vibrant, relaxed and lively. Walking down Istedgade, you will experience a different and exciting side of Copenhagen where all kinds of people hang out - students, hipsters, families wit...

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Pilestræde

Parallel to the much busier shopping street, Købmagergade, Pilestræde is dotted with fashionable shops, cozy cafes and funky bars. You’ll find everything from Scandinavian design for the home at Ha...

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Strøget

Strøget is Copenhagen's aorta and one of Europe's longest pedestrian streets with a wealth of shops, from budget- friendly chains to some of the world's most expensive brands. At some point during y...

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Larsbjørnsstræde

The Latin quarters of Copenhagen, also known in Danish as Pisserenden, cover some of the city’s most vibrant streets and colourful places. Larsbjørnsstræde stretches from Nørre Voldgade to Teglgård...

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Studiestræde

Just a stone’s throw away from Strøget, you will find Studiestræde in Copenhagen’s old Latin Quarter. Back in the 19th century the area was known for its unpleasant smell due to human waste that ra...

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Strædet

Strædet in Copenhagen is a street known for its many design and detail shops. It is also full of pleasant cafes, where one can enjoy both food and beverages outside or inside. You can easily spend ...

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Gammel Strand

After a long day of shopping at Strøget, you should go down to – an old street located in beautiful surroundings at the Slotsholmen Canal across Christiansborg Palace.

http://www.visitcopenhagen.com/copenhagen/culture/our-favourite-streets 3/11/2016 Ten years ago the street was in poor condition and not worth writing home about. But through a joint effort by the street’s residents, Jægersborggade was restored and is now one of the few streets left in Nørrebro which appears in its original layout.

And Jægersborggade has everything. You can get a haircut at the same time as you shop for retro toys and games, you can get handmade chocolate, get a tattoo or a really nice glass of wine. Expand your wardrobe at Damernes Magasin or one of the many other small clothing boutiques. Get brunch, lunch or a gourmet meal, enjoy the spectacle of life in the street from the outdoor seating at Cafe Lyst, or buy local art at Cmyk . You can get porridge in what is possibly the world’s only porridge cafe (called GRØD), or you can support the homeless and poor in India and Sierra Leone by having your coffee in RETRO Nørrebro. And I haven’t even mentioned half of what Jægersborggade has to offer.

The most macabre chapter of the street’s history is that one of Denmark’s worst serial killers, Dagmar Overbye, used to live here, back in 1916. The building where she committed the murders is still there.

Image by Elina Roivainen

Nansensgade

One of Elina Roivainen’s favorite Copenhagen streets!

What’s beautiful about Copenhagen is that one doesn’t necessarily have to leave the city center in order to reach a locals area. Even in the very center of the city the locals have their hangouts, and their everyday life can be seen in the street view.

One of this type of local street in the center is Nansensgade –just a stone cast away from the busy shopping –and travel center Nørreport. If walking by, one might not pay any special attention to it, and just consider it as residential area. I suggest you take a closer look and see which great spots the street has to offer! Let’s start from breakfast: take a look at Kalaset, right at the beginning of the street. Don’t forget to try their pancakes! If there at lunchtime, Café Nice a perfect choice. The French bistro- type of joint in a cool basement apartment. And if you prefer Italian cuisine, you gotta try La Fiorita at the midway of the street. This is an absolute favorite of the locals!

Even though this is a residential street with plenty of families, there are also some great bars to visit – try Bankeråt, or the beer bar Ørsteds Ølbar on Nørre Farimagsgade, the street parallel to Nansensgade.

Nansensgade hosts also numerous amounts of small, cute shops. The most interesting one for me at least is a comic shop down in a basement. You’ll be guaranteed to find a treasure every time you visit it!

Image by Natalia Wægter

Stefansgade

One of Copenhagen’s best streets according to Natalia Wægter!

Last Friday I spent the morning enjoying some seriously slow and cosy time in the really cool street Stefansgade in Nørrebro. I spent a couple of hours browsing through the array of coffee shops, unique jewellery stores, design collectives, second hand shop and organic greengrocer’s and it was the perfect place to relax and enjoy the street life. Stefansgade has evolved over the last few years, and being adjacent to the über-hyped Jægersborgsgade, represents a similar mix of little shops and eateries, but a bit more local and low key (for now). While I indulged in fresh blackberries and some white chocolate and licorice treats at the organic greengrocer’s, and browsed through the second hand shop and bought some cheap flowers.

The street also has so many great places. If you’re looking for a place to meet with friends for a glass of wine, choose Vinbaren i Stefansgade. More in need of coffe: try Riccos. If you’re in the mood for beers then try out Mikkelers&Friends, go for italian food at Stefano’s Specialities or one of the 3 pizza places that the street is home to. A perfect place to go with a take-away pizza would be Nørrebroparken on a sunny day!

Image by Stefan Hedegaard

Sankt Pedersstræde

The street where Spotter Stefan Hedegaard had his first memories growing up!

Sankt Pedersstræde is just one of the streets, that together are known as the “Latin Quarter”. A nice corner of Copenhagen city center where it’s not hard to find the local and alternative city lifestyle.

Walking down this specific street, might get me in a nostalgic mood, but surely I´m not the only one having a good time here! Many locals come here for coffee, food, beers, shopping, tattoos or just passing by on their bikes.

The shops on Sankt Pedersstræde includes the oldest bakery in Copenhagen (probably also in Denmark), Dessertdragens kageværksted serves cakes and cookies that are recommendable any day. You can also find tattoo- and more sub-cultural places like S/M shops (if your into that!). There is a good variety of bars – like Din Nye Ven and perfect soups at Soupanatural. The many possibilities makes this, one of my favorite streets in Copenhagen for both week days and weekends!

The location is perfect too. In the middle of city center, close to green parks like H.C. Ørstedparken and a great shortcut through the city by bike.

Image by Stefan Hedegaard

Værnedamsvej

Copenhagen local David Brandt’s favorite street!

Do you know the kind of street, where it feels like you are in a different part of the world? Værnedamsvej is like that. I don’t quite know what it is; maybe it is the many French places mixed with Danish style, that makes it feel a bit like a hipper version of Le Marais in Paris.

Værnedamsvej is very short, spanning only 200 meters and connecting Frederiksberg with Vesterbro. But don’t neglect it on account of the lack of length. It is jam-packed with shops of all sort: Small independent clothing stores, home decor shops, florists and lots of places to get food and drink.

Eating and drinking is indeed my main reason for going to Værnedamsvej. You’ll find plenty of small deli-style shops, nice cafes and restaurants and places to get a glass of wine as well. My favorite is Le Gourmand – a small delicatessen with their own import of French foods. You can buy cheeses, sausages, rillettes from small French producers as well as a jams, cornichons and other preserves or you they can make you a baguette sandwich with your favorite charcuterie.

For a sit-down meal, you can’t go wrong with Les Trois Cochons, the three piglets. It is part of the Cofoco group, which is known for high quality and cheap prices. Les Trois serves classical French brasserie with a set menu at a cheap price. After dinner go next door to Falernum a small wine bar that while always packed, there is always room for one more in the small space. The wine is self- imported and reasonably priced.

If you prefer to get your drink on at home, you’ll find one of Scandinavia’s finest liquor stores Juul’s Wine & Spirits, boasting probably the largest liquor selection in Scandinavia. It is a must visit if you are interested in rare and high-end liquors. Other notable places on Værnedamsvej are the very French Cafe Viggo, Danish cafe Granola, home decor store Dora Dora with its eclectic mix of new and old furniture and home accessories as well as the great Summerbird chocolate store.

Værnedamsvej possess a unique atmosphere that has to be experienced, especially on a sunny day where everybody will be out in the street. While it seems like everybody knows each other, you’ll fit right in if you smile, relax and go with the slow flow of Værnedamsvej-life.

Image by Cindy Fonvig

Blågårdsgade

Cindy Fonvig about another of her other favorite street!

Blågårdsgade is the only pedestrian street in Nørrebro. And worlds apart from the horror that is the pedestrian shopping streets in the city centre.

The residents of Blågårdsgade care a great deal for their street. They organize street parties, flea markets and small music events. It has turned into a village in the city, a friendly local community, where everybody’s welcome and diversity is key. But even if there are no events scheduled on a given day, there is always a reason to visit Blågårdsgade.

I recommend getting a beer at Harbo Bar or a coffee at Propps Coffee Shop or Floras further down the street. If you’re hungry Blågårdsgade boasts plenty of eateries, my personal favourite being Kate’s Joint. Or you can try Restaurant Zafran where you can bring your own wine. For takeaway I always return to the Arabic eatery Ahaaa. By Blågårds Square, which is turned into a skating rink every winter, you’ll find Blågårds Apotek, a combined gallerycafé-music venue with a wide beer selection.

For music lovers there’s Blå Records and Insula Music as well as the guitar shop Wood Sound and Valhalla Rock Bar. Of course you can also choose to spend all your money in clothing stores like Klædebo and Travel.

TASTE TESTED: COPENHAGEN’S BEST FLØDEBOLLER

March 29, 2015

Today started out great. We woke up to sunshine and an almost spring-like feeling, which lasted all of about half an hour or so before we had grey skies again. So what to do on such a day? The answer, as with so many things in life, has to do with chocolate. Obviously.

One great part of being an expat is to taste and try all of the different foods and drinks a new country has to offer. And Denmark has a lot of deliciousness just waiting for you – from the traditional “event foods”, such as a Christmas dinner or an Easter lunch, lunchtime favorites like smørrebrød and hot dogs, and of course all the sweet treats, like kanelsnegle, fastelavnsboller, and lagkage (just to name a few).

Another item on that list: flødeboller! Technically translated to “cream buns” (although our friend Wikipedia calls them “chocolated-coated marshmallow treats” – doesn’t roll off the tongue so well, does it?!), they actually don’t contain any cream, and they aren’t a bun, either. Confused? Rumor has it they were actually made with cream back in the day, but nowadays the filling is made with egg whites and loads of sugar, giving it a texture similar to Marshmallow Fluff.

Flødeboller exist in many countries, in some form or another. In Germany, we used to call them “Negerkuss” or “Mohrenkopf”, but they were later renamed into “Schaumkuss” (foam kiss) because that’s significantly less racist! I understand the same thing happened in Denmark as well. And while the German equivalent is usually store-bought and not great, the have really taken flødeboller to the next level, turning them into elaborate and decadent treats with high-quality ingredients and true craftsmanship in the production process.

You can buy flødeboller at the supermarket or at specialty chocolate/ cake stores. Their quality varies a bit, but mostly they are quite tasty, so it’s really all about what you like. I wouldn’t recommend the low-priced supermarket varieties, but we’ve also tested a brand that can be bought at Irma and it did quite well in the test.

So, without further ado, let’s just jump right in! It was a little odyssey around the city center of Copenhagen, but I managed to put together a good sample from seven different stores to test!

And here are all the contestants, all lined up:

Clear winners here were Mette Blomsterberg and Lagkagehuset – the most decadent end of the spectrum. Among the classic, “plain and simple” flødeboller, our favorites were Magasin Chokolade as well as the milk chocolate flødebolle from Frellsen.

In the test, I wanted to not only focus on the taste, but also on the presentation, decoration, and packaging. As you’ll probably agree, the package of a flødebolle becomes an important factor as soon as you’re not planning on eating it (or all of them) on the spot, but actually want to take them home. The presentation, as with any food, is also a key part, because, as we say in German, “you eat with your eyes first” – and a beautifully presented flødebolle makes me want to stuff it in my face even more (though I’d probably also eat crooked or squashed flødeboller in a heartbeat, no questions asked). So, let’s get started!

Sweet Valentine a213b May 15, 2015 05:39 PM

Noma, Relae, Amass, Geranium, Höst

Laura's bakery in Torvehallerne - in fact, Torvehallerne in general

Aamanns for smorrebrod sunbrace May 15, 2015 07:01 PM

Fine Dining: Geranium and Noma

Awesome Restaurants: Amass, Relae

Smorrebrod: Aamanns(they have a deli and a restaurant), Ida Davidsen

Pastries/Bakeries: Laura's Bakery, Andersen Bakery in , Meyers Bageri(multiple locations), Lillebror,

Conditori La Glace

I know Kodbyens Fiskebar is also popular with the tourists and locals alike for dinner but I found the dishes to be hit or miss.

Lastly, visitcopenhagen.com has spot on recs for different needs and occasions, including places to eat and restaurants open on Sundays!

Restaurant Geist (http://restaurantgeist.dk/en/food) about 50 metres from Nyhavn is very nice and could also meet your criteria.

Lastly, I had a meal at Krogs Fiskerestaurant (http://krogs.dk/?la=en), the set menu was only 4 course, not quite a tasting menu, but the seafood platter for 2 was outrageously good and well within your budget, including wine.

In Torvehallerne you have to try one of three meals: The slowly cooked wild boar sandwich with coleslaw and onion rings at Hav.dk (a fish sales store), a duck sandwich from the French store across from Hav.dk or the Freshly made Fish & Chips from the other fish store

Also all sorts of kitchen utilities, health products and other shops have their share in the halls. There are also plenty of café’s, snack shops and restaurants in the halls, something for everyone, I bet. My personal favorite is to get a Parma ham-rucola-parmesan -filled focaccia from Il Fornaio Bottega. Perfect for snacking!

SMØRREBRØD

What: These so-called open-faced sandwiches comprise the definitive Danish lunch, and it is here in Copenhagen where the dish’s popularity grew. Smørrebrød(roughly, “smer-buhd”) come in hundreds of varieties, artfully composed combinations of proteins (meat, seafood, eggs), vegetables, spreads, and garnishes carefully placed atop a thin slice of buttered rugbrød, Denmark’s beloved dark, dense rye bread. Although Danes have been eating rye bread for some 1,000 years, smørrebrød probably dates to the 1840s, when farm laborers and other workers got in the habit of packing lunches with a slice of rye and various toppings like cold cuts, fish, cheese, leverpostej (liver paste), or another homemade spread. Forty years later, more gourmet takes of this lunch began appearing on restaurant menus, starting with Restaurant Nimb’s in Tivoli Gardens, in 1883—a tradition that continues today at Fru Nimb, Tivoli’s new smørrebrød restaurant. Most of the varieties you’ll encounter today don’t actually resemble “sandwiches” at all, but rather lavish arrangements of food that happen to be atop a hidden slice of bread. You order smørrebrød by the piece; anywhere from three to six pieces should fill you up, depending on their size and your appetite.

While you can often customize your own plate, smørrebrød tend to be presented in classic combos. Of the most popular and traditional, just a few of the ones to know include: leverpostej (pork-liver spread with bacon and mushrooms; see entry), kartoffelmad (boiled potato with mayo and chives), dyrlægens natmad(“veterinarian’s midnight snack,” leverpostej with saltkød (corned beef), meat aspic, and onions), fiskefilet (pan-fried fish with remoulade and lettuce),fiskefrikadeller (fish cakes, with lemon and tartar sauce), Grønlandske rejer(Greenlandic shrimp with mayo and dill), æg med rejer (or rejemad, small shrimp with hard-boiled egg and mayo), frikadeller (Danish meatballs, usually with red cabbage and/or pickles; see entry), stjerneskud (“shooting star,” fried fish, smoked salmon or steamed fish, shrimp, and caviar with mayo and lemon), røget ål med lun røræg (smoked eel with scrambled eggs), skagen sild (pickled herring in a creamy white sauce), roastbeef med sprøde løg (roast beef with crispy onions, remoulade, and horseradish), tatar (beef tartar with raw egg yolk, horseradish, and onion), pariserbøf (pan-fried “tartar”—essentially a burger—with horseradish, onions, capers, pickled veggies, and raw egg yolk), and various other combos that feature smoked salmon or halibut, boiled ham, chicken salad, roast pork, veal tongue, cheese, and more. A whole world of smørrebrød is out there, and there’s no better place to dive in than in Copenhagen.

Where: Most of the traditional Danish lunch restaurants, many detailed below as alternates and featured elsewhere on the site, are formal sit-down, old-school places that specialize in smørrebrød, herring, and snaps—and they’re not cheap. So it’s refreshing to also visit a spot like Rita’s Smørrebrød (Fælledvej 11, map) in Nørrebro, a tiny budget-friendly café popular among locals. We have Alex at Virtual Wayfarer to thank for pointing us there.

Good to know: While there are a few small tables inside and on the sidewalk, Rita’s is largely a takeaway spot—bring your loot back to your place or bring it to a nearby park, like .

When: Mon-Fri, 7am-2pm

Order: Rita’s has more than 50 types of smørrebrød on offer, and invites you to make your own if you wish—but you’ll have a hard time straying from the classic combos. The four pictured, a mere 12 kr each, are (clockwise from top left)kartoffel ristede løg (sliced yellow potato with lettuce, mayo, and crispy fried onions, garnished with cress), æg med rejer (sliced hard-boiled egg with mayo and shrimp, garnished with red pepper and cress), fiskefilet (fried flatfish filet with lettuce and remoulade, garnished with lemon, red pepper, and cress), anddyrlægens natmad (liver pate with corned beef, aspic, and lettuce, garnished with raw onion, red pepper, and cress). Underneath each composition was a single piece of thin but sturdy rye bread. Did they taste good? We admit a few of the combos take some getting used to—and we’re personally not fans of mayonnaise in general—but we did enjoy these, particularly the fish and the potato varieties. See below for some more smørrebrød standouts.

Alternatively: We’re big fans of the overwhelming lunch-only menu at Restaurant Schønnemann (Hauser Plads 16, map), an iconic basement eatery established in 1877 that’s famous for its smørrebrød and snaps (most lunch plates range between 70-168 kr, although they are of course more elaborate than those at Rita’s). We especially loved the incredible smoked eel and scrambled egg dish there. Another favorite “sandwich” is the classic leverpostej we devoured at Ida Davidsen (Store Kongensgade 70, map), likewise a century-plus-old eatery famous for its smørrebrød, of which there are some 250 imaginative varieties here. Over by the botanical gardens, Aamanns (Øster Farimagsgade 10- 12, map), both a deli/takeaway and a (newer) sit-down restaurant (Aamanns Etablissement), gets a whole lotta love for its signature, more contemporary smørrebrød, offered as a much smaller menu Monday through Sunday—if you visit the deli, there are plenty of picnicking opportunities in that area. Told Og Snaps ( 2,map) and Restaurant Kronberg (Brolæggerstræde 12, map) are two more we recommend in a long line of traditional Danish-lunch eateries.

Summer drinking: Best Copenhagen bars - FT.com Page 3 of 4

©Camilla Stephan/Rasmus Malmstroem

Koelschip’s scruffier Belgian feel

Koelschip

With ceramic jugs on the bar and antique advertising and hops on the walls, this new venture from Danish craft brewers Mikkeller has the slightly down-at-heel air of a classic Belgian “brown café”, the Lowlands answer to Britain’s street-corner pubs. The furniture is heavy and wooden and there’s plenty of Belgian and Belgian-style beer, from the four bar taps and a fridge full of bottles. Even the food is Belgian, taking in Pottekeis, a cheese spread made with gueuze ale, and lots of charcuterie. The only reminder that you’re in Copenhagen comes with the prices: a 25cl glass of Swedish brewery Brekeriet’s excellent Blondette comes in at K45.

Stefansgade 35, 2200 København N; mikkeller.dk/location/koelschip

WarPigs

The result of a partnership between Mikkeller, which appears to be buying up Copenhagen bar by bar, and US brewers 3Floyds, WarPigs is the city’s hottest beer bar, with a big, bold American feel. There’s Texas BBQ (produced using two smokers capable of turning out two tonnes of meat a day) and 20 taps, including plenty of beer made on-site by American head brewer Kyle Wolak. Seating is fairly rudimentary — long picnic tables and benches, essentially — but the beer is good, service is friendly and the meat-heavy menu (appropriate as this used to be a slaughterhouse) has already earned a big reputation. Don’t forget your 10-gallon hat.

Flæsketorvet 25, 1711 København V; warpigs.dk

Photographs: Camilla Stephan/Rasmus Malmstroem

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http://www.ft.com/intl/cms/s/0/fd347704-284c-11e6-8b18-91555f2f4fde.html 6/17/2016 Eating out in Copenhagen guide

When to eat

Where eating is concerned, you’d better start setting your alarm clock back in increments of 10 if you want to get yourself onto a useful Danish timetable – this lot are early risers and as such, early eaters. Rush hour kicks off at 7 in the morning, with lunch swiftly following between 11am and peaking between 12 and 13. With that said, it’s hardly surprising that some locals choose to dine as early as 17.

Come the weekend, the most coveted dinner reservations are at 19, but if you’re already panicking about how to fill the hours between eating and hitting the bar don’t worry – meals can be a long, drawn-out affair, often stretching to three or four hours, so schedule your night accordingly.

If you’re arriving late or getting a terrible case of the midnight munchies you’d better run for it – few restaurants will seat anyone past 21, and the only options you’ll be left with are a McDonalds or a 7-11.

The smørrebrød

If anyone can make a performance out of the humble sarnie, it’s the Danes. Call them glorified sandwiches if you like, but the smørrebrød is the most traditional of the Danish foods. There’s an art to combining, layering and presenting the ingredients of these sumptuous open-faced sandwiches, whilst some simply eat them as an excuse to knock down greedy amounts of the accompanying akvavit; herbal snaps best consumed ice cold. Try some at any of our recommended restaurants for local fare, and don’t leave without trying the classics:

• Flæskesteg – slices of roast pork with crispy skin, garnished with pickled red cabbage, pickled cucumber slices and often remoulade (a sweet-sour pickled mayonnaise) • Fiskefilet –fried, breaded red sole, garnished with lettuce, lemon, remoulade, and often capers and horseradish • Røget ål med røræg – smoked eel, garnished with scrambled egg and chives • Dyrelægens natmad – liver pate, garnished with stock jelly and roasted onions, and topped with a slice of salt beef

Street food

Don’t deny yourself the pleasure of sampling a hotdog from one of the ubiquitous pølsevogn stands scattered around town, but know that once you’ve tried one, it’ll be hard to ever walk past another without stopping.

And do step into a bakery – just about any will do – and see what a real Danish (called wienerbrød here) tastes like. Available in different varieties, ask for a spandauer med syltetøj, an overskåren med creme or a kanelsnegl, and you won’t go away disappointed.

Gourmet and New Nordic dining

Noma may have been voted the world’s best restaurant, but there’s much more to fine dining in Copenhagen. With a dozen Michelin-starred restaurants in the Danish capital alone, René Redzepi’s Nordic restaurant has plenty of worthy company, not least from his alumni like former head chef Matthew Orlando's Amass, sous chefs Victor Wågman and Samuel Nutter's Bror, and Christian Puglisi's much vaunted Relæ.

Sample more classic cuisine at Kong Hans Kælder and d'Angleterre's Marchal or get acquainted with the talents of youngers stars like the Berntsen brothers at Clou, Theis Brydegaard at Kadeau and, perhaps the brightest of them all, Rasmus Kofoed at Geranium. And did you know that Copenhagen is home to Kiin Kiin, the world's only Michelin-starred Thai restaurant? Whilst gourmet dining is expensive everywhere, the stiff competition here keeps the price of the set tasting menus in Copenhagen very competitive.

When it doesn't need to be that fancy

There are plenty of cheap places to eat in Copenhagen but for a very nice meal without having to take out a second mortgage, then it's hard to beat either Madklubben or the Cofoco group's restaurant like Höst, Oysters & Grill, and Les Trois Cochons.

For something more sceney, then Fiskebaren and Karrierebar in Kødbyen or Mums and the Simons' Congo in the city center are good bets.

How much

A big contributor to the perception of priceyness is the scarcity of restaurants serving cheap food. On average, Copenhageners tend to have nicer homes than say New Yorkers or Londoners, and as such don’t eat out just for a lack of cooking facilities in their cupboard-like kitchens, rather choosing to trade up for special occasions.

Demanding customers combined with high labour costs don’t make for a cheap eat but, contrary to popular belief, you won’t have to arrange a second mortgage to eat out (and well at that) in Copenhagen, as long as you stick to one rule: skip the wine. Sure you weren’t counting on a detoxing holiday but save the alcohol units for the bars and cut back on the vintages during dinner, and the cost of a nice meal is comparable to other European cities. And, don’t forget, there are no hidden extras: prices are inclusive of all taxes and tips are negligible.

Tipping

Danish waiters are actually paid a decent wage, so whilst some may also be actor/model/whatever hopefuls, it’s not an indicator of their poverty-stricken lifestyles. Although always gladly accepted, tips aren’t expected.

Credit cards

Note that many establishments slap on a hefty surcharge, as high as 1-4%, when paying with a foreign credit card (avoid by paying in cash). Cards other than Visa and Mastercard are often not accepted at all.