List of Illustrations

1 Montreal Snow Shoe Club, Mount Royal, 1877 20 2 Lord Lansdowne as depicted in Punch, 1883 23 3 'Old and Young Canada, ' 1884 29 4 Walter Chesterton as Lyconides, an Athenian, Dufferin ball, 1876 46 5 Skating carnival, Ottawa, 1881 54 6a J. G. Macklin as a Portuguese officer, Ottawa, 1876 56 6b Edward Waldo as a Portuguese officer, Montreal, 1881 57 6c Edward Waldo as the Baron de Longueuil, Ottawa, 1896 58 7a Mrs McLeod Stewart in the court of the reign of Charles II, Ottawa, 1876 59 7b Mrs McLeod Stewart as the Duchess of Suffolk, Ottawa, 1896 60 8 Mrs Lindsay as a lady of the time of Marie Antoinette, Montreal, 1881 61 9 Seventeenth-century nobles 71 10 John Redpath 82 11 Time magazine's feature of the first Association of Canadian Couturiers collection, 1954 92 12 The second presentation of the Association of Canadian Couturiers, 1955 94 13 Designs at the Fall 1960 collection of the Association of Canadian Couturiers 99 14 Frederica's Spring 1955 afternoon dress 101 15 A millinery shop in Midland, Ontario, c. 1897 119 16 The millinery workroom at theT. Eaton Co., 1902 124 17 Advertisement for ladies' hats from the John D. Ivey Co., 1901 126 18 Eaton's catalogue advertisement for 'Bob-O-Link' hats, 1924—5 129 19 New woman in 1860s dress made and worn locally 140 x List of Illustrations

20 New Brunswick woman in c. 1870 dress made and worn locally 143 21 Advertisement for David Millar's Hoop Manufactory 146 22 Thomas R. Jones's merchant tailor establishment 147 23 Advertisement for Agnes Stewart's Store 161 24 Workroom at the Clayton & Sons factory, 1900 171 25 Wholesale stockroom at the Clayton & Sons factory, 1900 176 26 Directions for measuring, 1827 194 27 Henry Morgan's Colonial House, St Catherine Street, Montreal 206 28 Advertisement celebrating the opening of James Ogilvy's second store on St Catherine Street, 1912 215 29 Bloomers on Canadian women 233 30 Advertisement for bicycling dress with bloomers 240 31 The Wartimer'coat 257 32 Skirt as civilian uniform 261 33 for women 263 34 Jane Harris and Princess Alice, Countess Athlone, Lancaster House, London, 1950 277 35 Models at the start of a tour, Montreal, 1958 283 36 A New Ball , ' 1893 299 37 The Picture Hat, '1893 302 38 'Mr. C. D. Gibson's Typical American Woman' 305 39 A Charming Toilette' 307 40 Canadian edition of Time features Shalom Harlow, 1997 322 41 Linda Evangelista, 1998 328 42 'Pop in Orbit' exhibit at the Design Exchange, Toronto, 1995 330 43 'Pop in Orbit' exhibit at the Design Exchange, Toronto, 1995 331 44 Harry Rosen's in-house magazine 333

Colour Plates

A Julie and Ezilda Papineau, 1836 B , 1880s C Hat, c. 1910 D Three hats, late 1920s E Simpson's ad, 1950 F Eaton's fashion illustration, 1958 G 'Fashion Mosaics' ad for Eaton's, 1972 H Eaton's ad with image by Parker and Groh, I960