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Fashion Design CHICKIPEDIATHE SILHOUETTE OF THE 1870S DRESS AND THE VIEW OF THE FEMALE BODY BA IN FINE ARTS; FASHION DESIGN SAINA KOOHNAVARD MAY, 2013 2013.3.4 1 ABSTRACT This paper explores the fundamental meanings of deconstruction in fashion design and has the aim to investigate deconstruction in feminine ideal. It also stresses other thoughts of deconstruc- tion in terms of philosophy through Jacques Derrida, architecture and philosopher Peter Eisenman and how deconstruction can be ABSTRACT 1 PAGE applied to find parallels between its setting and the setting it is LOOK BOOK compared to. Since the 1960s, deconstruction is a term that has PAGE 2 - 19 PAGE been interpreted within many fields and traversed across different BACKGROUND media. Influential Japanese designers have used the term in their PAGE 20 - 29 PAGE AIM OF THE WORK works, juxtapositioning them to traditional Western ideas to cre- PAGE 30 PAGE ate clear contrasts between stereotypical and categorised percep- METHOD tion and unconventional interpretations. During the 1980s, de- PAGE 31 - 37 PAGE signers such as Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto explored the DEVELOPMENT term to subsequently create a great distress in the fashion field. PAGE 38 - 65 PAGE Their designs were examples of archetypes evoked from the past RESULT and presented as newborn strangers or dismantled ghosts. These PAGE 66 - 69 PAGE designers investigated the mechanical functions of each archetype REFERENCES as they sought to find the meaning of each garment to later rein- PAGE 70 - 72 PAGE terpret its traditional essence. Also, they questioned the relation- APPENDIX 73 - 76 PAGE ship between body and garment, raising thoughts of whether or not the bearer of the garment was personified to the garment’s traditional significance. The deconstructed element chosen for investigation in this project consists of a personification of the sil- houette of the 1870s dress. This personification is discussed in terms of social and moral standards and constrictions as well as the political function of the dress. The fact that you could deconstruct a 1870s dress is clearly a way to take a historical archetype from its traditional meaning and place it into a new context. Similar to Jacques Derrida, the works of deconstruction in fashion design discuss our assumptions of archetypes and whether or not these archetypes can ever lack of historical or individual meaning. The constant dialogue with the past is a catalyst to reinterpret stand- ardisations in fashion design through questioning the conformity of archetypes. KEYWORDS Design Femininity Fashion Victorian Deconstruction 1870s Digital printing Brocade Distortion Bum Ideals LOOKMODEL: PAULINA, MODELLINK BOOK PHOTOGRAPHY: HENRIK BENGTSSON, IMAGINARA SLOPE JACKET 5 KYLIE TROUSERS The Slope Jacket consists of a digital pixel print rive from the Victorian jacket and skirt. The on fused polyester crèpe. The sleeves are Kylie Trousers consist of the same polyester fused twice in order to give shape. The sleeve crèpe and have a digital pixel print deriv- setting strives towards centre front with an ing from the Victorian skirt. The part of the exaggerated curve to highlight the construc- bum is fused twice for reinforcement to give tion. Digital prints from the Slope Jacket de- shape with the polyester bonings. SHAPED NECK FACING SECURED IN SEAM ALLOWANCE ZIP WITH 1-NEEDLE STITCH SIDE PANELS CHAIN STITCH SIDE PANELS HEMS FOLDED AND ATTACHED WITH FUSING TAPE STYLE INFO: SLOPE JACKET DEP: JACKETSSHAPED FACING SECUREDWOMENSWEAR DATE OF CREATION: 2013.05.21 STYLE INFO: SLOPE JACKET DEP: JACKETS WOMENSWEAR DATE OF CREATION: 2013.05.21 WITH 1-NEEDLE TOP STITCH 1 DART BONINGS COVERED IN LIGHT COTTON TAPE WITH 2-NEEDLE TOP STITCH HEM FOLDED AND ATTACHED WITH FUSING TAPE CHAIN STITCH STYLE INFO: KYLIE TROUSERS DEP: TROUSERS WOMENSWEAR DATE OF CREATION: 2013.05.20 STYLE INFO: KYLIE TROUSERS DEP: TROUSERS WOMENSWEAR DATE OF CREATION: 2013.05.20 DUALITY SWEATER 7 BUM SKIRT The Duality Sweater consists of a digital pix- skirt. The brocade fabric is woven with lurex el print on sleeves. These are made of fused and polyester yarns with colours deriving polyester crèpe. The sleeve setting strives to- from the Kylie Trousers. The bum skirt con- wards centre front with an exaggerated curve sist of the same fused polyester crèpe and to highlight the construction. Digital prints have a digital pixel print deriving from the from the Slope Jacket derive from the Victorian Victorian skirt. SHAPED NECK FACING SECURED IN SEAM ALLOWANCE WITH 1-NEEDLE STITCH CHAIN STITCH TWISTED SIDE SEAM AT SLEEVE HEMS FOLDED AND ATTACHED WITH FUSING TAPE STYLE INFO: DUALITY SWEATER DEP: JACKETS WOMENSWEAR DATE OF CREATION: 2013.05.21 STYLE INFO: DUALITY SWEATER DEP: JACKETS WOMENSWEAR DATE OF CREATION: 2013.05.21 SHAPED FACING SECURED 2 WITH 1-NEEDLE TOP STITCH HEM FOLDED AND ATTACHED WITH FUSING TAPE SIDE SEAM MANIPULATION 2-NEEDLE TOP STITCH BONINGS COVERED IN CHAIN STITCH 2-NEEDLE TOP STITCH LIGHT COTTON TAPE WITH 2-NEEDLE TOP STITCH STYLE INFO: BUM SKIRT DEP: SKIRTS WOMENSWEAR DATE OF CREATION: 2013.05.20 STYLE INFO: BUM SKIRT DEP: SKIRTS WOMENSWEAR DATE OF CREATION: 2013.05.20 KIM DRESS 9 The Kim Dress is made of a woven brocade fab- here shown as a tight fitted top attatched to ric consisting of polyester and cotton yarns. It the rest of the dress. All pattern pieces of the is fused in order to give shape to the bum. The top are there to give shape to breasts and to dress is constructed with the help of foil and enhance this part. The digital print consists is worked closely to the mannequin. Digital of polyester crèpe and is fused in order to prints derive from the Victorian skirt and is reinforce the shape. BOUNDED EDGE WITH BOUNDED SEAM FOLDED EDGE ATTAT- CHED WITH FUSING TAPE INVISIBLE ZIP, 50 CM DOWN DARTS 3 CF SLIT FOLDED HEM ATTATCHED WITH FUSING TAPE BONINGS COVERED IN LIGHT COTTON TAPE WITH 2-NEEDLE STITCH STYLE INFO: KIM DRESS DEP: DRESSES WOMENSWEAR DATE OF CREATION: 2013.05.25 STYLE INFO: KIM DRESS DEP: DRESSES WOMENSWEAR DATE OF CREATION: 2013.05.25 BUM CORSET 11 QUEEN VICKY BOMBER The Bum Corset is made of a woven polyester et with oversized sleeves. The digital print brocade fabric. The polyester bonings are consists of polyester crèpe and is fused twice sewn in panels with an inner cotton fabric in order to reinforce the shape. The sleeve to reinforce the shape. Digital prints of the setting strives towards centre front with an Queen Vicky Bomber derive from the Victorian exaggerated curve to highlight the construc- skirt and is here shown as a tight fitted jack- tion. SHAPED NECK FACING SECURED IN SEAM ALLOWANCE WITH 1-NEEDLE STITCH ZIP HEMS FOLDED AND ATTACHED WITH FUSING TAPE CHAIN STITCH DART DART 4 SIDE ZIP STYLE INFO: QUEEN VICKY BOMBER DEP: JACKETS WOMENSWEAR DATE OF CREATION: 2013.05.20 STYLE INFO: QUEEN VICKY BOMBER DEP: JACKETS WOMENSWEAR DATE OF CREATION: 2013.05.20 2-NEEDLE TOP STITCH BOUNDED EDGE IN SHELL FABRIC WITH BOUNDED SEAM POLYESTER BONINGS THROUGH SEWN PANELS DARTS REINFORCED BY BONINGS STYLE INFO: BUM CORSET DEP: CORSETS WOMENSWEAR DATE OF CREATION: 2013.05.20 STYLE INFO: BUM CORSET DEP: CORSETS WOMENSWEAR DATE OF CREATION: 2013.05.20 BUM COAT 13 The Bum Coat is made of a woven brocade fab- torian skirt and is here shown as oversized ric consisting of polyester and cotton yarns. It sleeves. The digital print consists of polyes- is fused in order to give shape to the bum. The ter crèpe and is fused twice in order to re- dress is constructed with the help of foil and inforce the shape. The sleeve setting strives is worked closely to the mannequin. Digital towards centre front with an exaggerated prints of the Bum Coat derive from the Vic- curve to highlight the construction. FIXED LINING 2-NEEDLE TOP STITCH HEMS FOLDED AND WELT POCKETS ATTACHED WITH WITH 1-NEEDLE TOP FUSING TAPE STITCH AT SIDES BOTTOM HEM FOLDED AND SECURED WITH 1-NEEDLE TOP STITCH BONINGS COVERED IN LIGHT COTTON TAPE WITH 2-NEEDLE TOP STITCH 5 STYLE INFO: BUM COAT DEP: OUTERWEAR WOMENSWEAR DATE OF CREATION: 2013.05.20 STYLE INFO: BUM COAT DEP: OUTERWEAR WOMENSWEAR DATE OF CREATION: 2013.05.20 DUALITY JACKET 15 KYLIE TROUSERS The Duality Jacket consists of a digital pixel Jacket derive from the Victorian jacket and print on fused polyester crèpe. The sleeves skirt. The Kylie Trousers consist of the same are fused twice in order to give shape. The polyester crèpe and have a digital pixel print sleeve setting strives towards centre front deriving from the Victorian skirt. The part with an exaggerated curve to highlight the of the bum is fused twice for reinforcement construction. Digital prints from the Duality to give shape with the polyester bonings. SHAPED NECK FACING SECURED IN SEAM ALLOWANCE ZIP WITH 1-NEEDLE STITCH SIDE PANELS CHAIN STITCH SIDE PANELS HEMS FOLDED AND ATTACHED WITH FUSING TAPE SHAPED FACING SECURED STYLE INFO: DUALITY JACKET DEP: JACKETSWITH 1-NEEDLE TOPWOMENSWEAR STITCH DATE OF CREATION: 2013.05.21 STYLE INFO: DUALITY JACKET DEP: JACKETS t WOMENSWEAR DATE OF CREATION: 2013.05.21 6 DART BONINGS COVERED IN LIGHT COTTON TAPE WITH 2-NEEDLE TOP STITCH HEM FOLDED AND ATTACHED WITH FUSING TAPE CHAIN STITCH STYLE INFO: KYLIE TROUSERS DEP: TROUSERS WOMENSWEAR DATE OF CREATION: 2013.05.20 STYLE INFO: KYLIE TROUSERS DEP: TROUSERS WOMENSWEAR DATE OF CREATION: 2013.05.20 17 HER HIGHNESS DRESS Her Highness Dress is made of a woven bro- structed with the help of foil and is worked cade fabric in the sleeves consisting of poly- closely to the mannequin. Digital prints ester and cotton yarns.
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