Lacoste at 80 Fashion Week Got Into Full Snow-Covered Stride Heading Into the Weekend with Collections Including Kenneth Cole, Kate Spade, Nautica and Lyn Devon
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WWDMILESTONES SECTION II LACOSTE AT 80 FASHION WEEK GOT INTO FULL SNOW-COVERED STRIDE HEADING INTO THE WEEKEND WITH COLLECTIONS INCLUDING KENNETH COLE, KATE SPADE, NAUTICA AND LYN DEVON. PAGE 4 NEMO’S WRATH Blizzard Hits Retail As Shows Must Go On By WWD STAFF AH, AS SUZY MENKES recalls, for the New York shows of yore “in the crispness of October and the lovely beginning of spring.” Instead, there’s a blizzard. Scores of stores closed early Friday in the Tristate WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 9, 2013 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY area due to Winter Storm Nemo even as designers and the fashion pack soldiered on through New York WWD Fashion Week — although many European buyers and journalists, including Menkes herself, could not get to New York because of canceled flights. The clothes on the runway suddenly looked perfectly timely for the weather outside even as many fashion folk refused to give in and stuck to their vertiginous heels, short skirts and flowy dresses, snow and slush be damned. Winter Storm Nemo hit New York on Friday. PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY None of the fashion shows were canceled or post- poned as of press time Friday, with most design- ers due to show today saying they were sticking to the schedule. A spokeswoman for IMG, which owns Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, said Friday, “We have been in constant contact throughout the night and into this morning with city officials, including the Mayor’s office, the NYPD, Council of Fashion Designers of America, the Department of Sanitation and the Department of Buildings. As we stated yes- terday, we have a proactive plan in place to deal with Nemo. That plan includes additional crews to help Heating with snow, ice and salt maintenance, increased inte- rior heating, among other precautions. We also have our tent architect and extra crews on site to help manage our structure during the storm. “Based on the most current weather models avail- COLLECTIONS able, it is becoming clear that most of the snow accu- mulation and high winds will occur late tonight and end Up by early tomorrow morning. Mass transit continues to FALL operate normally in New York, and there have been no Jason Wu put the NEW YORK 2013 service changes announced as of yet. In consultation with the city and CFDA, as well as our other partners, incoming blizzard we have decided not to close Mercedes-Benz Fashion aside on Friday for Week early this evening. All planned shows will go on as a collection he dubbed scheduled. We will continue to monitor the storm, and make changes to the schedule if they are needed.” “Extreme Femininity.” After making a significant A bigger problem occurred with the airlines, statement in power daywear, Wu softened slightly which canceled hundreds of flights to the New York area, disrupting travel plans. As of Friday after- with a series of elegant gowns and bustier dresses noon, 1,059 flights arriving to New York area airports with filmy skirts, such as this one-shouldered style (Newark Liberty International, John F. Kennedy and in sexy layers. For more, see pages 6 to 10. LaGuardia) were canceled, and 219 flights that were to arrive at New York area airports today were can- celed, according to Flightaware.com. Kerry Youmans, senior vice president of KCD, which is handling about 25 shows and presentations during New York Fashion Week, said there were a group of editors who arrived before the storm, and about an equal number of international editors who have had delayed flights. “Most appear to be making it here by [this] afternoon or evening. We’re aware that could change further. A lot of them have re- booked for Saturday flights, so we’ll see. We have only a handful of people who have flat-out canceled.” Youmans said KCD would move ahead with a nor- mal schedule for today and is monitoring the weather. PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE SEE PAGE 4 2 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 9, 2013 WWD.COM A Healthy Obsession: FIT Shows Shoes Hill found that the average American THE BRIEFING BOX By RACHEL STRUGATZ woman has two times the amount of shoes she did a decade ago. IN TODAY’S WWD NEW YORK — Valerie Steele, director “During ‘Sex and the City,’ there were and chief curator of the The Museum a handful of fanatics who knew about at The Fashion Institute of Technology, Manolo [Blahnik], but there’s been expo- was on her third pair of shoes before nential democratization [here.] They now Thursday’s fete for the new “Shoe know Nicholas Kirkwood and Charlotte Obsession” exhibition and correspond- Edmundo Castillo Olympia — and people are buying them,” ing book was even halfway over. Steele said. “Accessories are no longer ac- After slipping out of the black ver- cessories. They are the central picture.” tiginous Noritaka Tatehana wedges — Castillo, who had two pairs of shoes made famous by Lady Gaga and stand- featured, agreed. He called shoes “the” ing at eight inches — Steele changed object of desire, noting that styles la- into a pair of more modest 5-inch black beled “sky-high” 20 years ago are now platform Nicholas Kirkwood sandals to thought of as average heel height. welcome guests to the show, which will “What was considered unwearable run through April 18. and impractical by many people is now The 150-shoe exhibit, hosted in Charlotte Olympia a typical part of the selection of shoes at partnership with Saks Fifth Avenue, most retailers,” Castillo said, citing tech- contains footwear from designers like nology as allowing for the evolution of Manolo Blahnik, Jimmy Choo, Christian unique and artistic footwear that is still The scene at the party for Commes des Carres. Louboutin, Chanel, Roger Vivier, Pierre often wearable. For more, see WWD.com. Hardy, Nicholas Kirkwood, Charlotte Birman, who had three pairs of shoes Olympia, Tabitha Simmons, Alexandre on exhibit, said the past four years have Birman, Aperlai, Brian Atwood, brought a tremendous change to the Edmundo Castillo, Gucci, Andreia footwear industry. Chaves, Lanvin, Givenchy, Balenciaga, “We’re seeing emerging designers Charline DeLuca, Masaya Kushino and making a huge difference,” Birman said Aperlai of the category, once dominated solely Gianluca Tamburini. Birman, Castillo, JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY DeLuca, Kushino, Aperlai’s Alessandra by big designer houses and Louboutin, Lanvin and Tamburini were all in attendance. Blahnik and Choo. “Brian Atwood, Nicholas For Steele, who cocurated the show with associ- Kirkwood, Charlotte Olympia, Tabitha Simmons ate curator of accessories Colleen Hill, the obses- and Pierre Hardy are a lot of important designers sion with shoes has “ratcheted up to a new level.” that have huge space in shoe departments now.” Chloe’s Super Sweet 16 Outside the New York shows. IMPENDING WINTER STORM singer Tori Kelly. The crowd, com- For more, see Nemo did not deter the tweens prised mostly of teenage girls and WWD.com. who descended upon Aéropostale’s fans of Moretz, could be found tak- PHOTO BY JENNA GREENEPHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY Times Square outpost for a dual ing self-portraits on their iPhones celebration on Thursday night: at any given moment. A blizzard walloping the Northeast put a damper on some Chloë Grace Moretz’s Sweet 16 The actress, clad in Chanel fashion events and took a toll on retail. PAGE ONE. birthday bash and Teen Vogue’s and an Aéropostale leather 10th-anniversary party (the jacket, revealed that her real actress is on the maga- birthday falls on Feb. 10. Valerie Steele, director and chief curator of the The zine’s March cover and an “But I got my presents Museum at The Fashion Institute of Technology, was on eye hand Thursday to fete the new “Shoe Obsession” exhibition Aéropostale brand ambassa- today,” she said, motioning Chloe dor). The store’s upper level toward her wrist. “It’s a sil- Grace and corresponding book. PAGE 2 had been transformed into a ver diamond bracelet with my Moretz in teenybopper paradise filled with letter, ‘C.’ And I got this ring, it’s Chanel. Aéropostale in Times Square was the spot of a dual helium balloons, a photo booth, lol- Victorian and it’s opal.” MARKER/BFANYC.COM ARTHUR PHOTO BY celebration Thursday night: Chloë Grace Moretz’s lipops, cakes, virgin cocktails and The biggest perk of the mile- Sarah Hyland, now 22, reflected Sweet 16 birthday bash and Teen Vogue’s 10th- Venetian masquerade masks. stone birthday, however, will be on her own sweet 16 party. anniversary party. PAGE 2 Julianne Moore, Victoria the ability to drive. “I was doing ‘Grey Gardens’ Justice, Jake T. Austin, Harley “I have literally just applied for on Broadway,” she said. “My 16th As the snow began to take Manhattan, the fashion Viera-Newton, Atlanta de Cadenet my permit,” she said. “My mom is birthday was on a Saturday — shows powered through including Jason Wu, Kate Spade and Irish pop duo John and teaching me. I know how to drive which you’d think would be awe- and others. PAGES 6 THROUGH 10. Edward Grimes, also known as stick. My mom is like, ‘I don’t wanna some — but we had a five-show Jedward, turned out for the party, buy you a new car. I’m gonna give weekend, so I had two shows that which featured musical perfor- you my car and I’m gonna get a new day. And I went to Olive Garden. I ON WWD.COM mances by Swedish synth-pop car.’ And I’m like, ‘Ugh! Teri! Why went…to Olive Garden. Unlimited artists Icona Pop and “America’s are you doing this to me?’” breadsticks on my birthday.” Most Talented Kids” winner and “Modern Family” actress — KRISTI GARCED EYE: Editors and Rei Kawakubo diehards gathered to toast Commes des Carres, an unlikely partnership between Comme MEDIA GADFLIES des Garçons and Hermès.