Lacoste at 80 Fashion Week Got Into Full Snow-Covered Stride Heading Into the Weekend with Collections Including Kenneth Cole, Kate Spade, Nautica and Lyn Devon

WWDMILESTONES SECTION II LACOSTE AT 80 FASHION WEEK GOT INTO FULL SNOW-COVERED STRIDE HEADING INTO THE WEEKEND WITH COLLECTIONS INCLUDING KENNETH COLE, KATE SPADE, NAUTICA AND LYN DEVON. PAGE 4

NEMO’S WRATH Blizzard Hits Retail As Shows Must Go On

By WWD STAFF

AH, AS SUZY MENKES recalls, for the New York shows of yore “in the crispness of October and the lovely beginning of spring.” Instead, there’s a blizzard. Scores of stores closed early Friday in the Tristate WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 9, 2013 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY area due to Winter Storm Nemo even as designers and the fashion pack soldiered on through New York WWD Fashion Week — although many European buyers and journalists, including Menkes herself, could not get to New York because of canceled ﬂights. The clothes on the runway suddenly looked perfectly timely for the weather outside even as many fashion folk refused to give in and stuck to their vertiginous heels, short skirts and ﬂowy dresses, snow and slush be damned.

Winter Storm Nemo hit New York on Friday. PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY

None of the fashion shows were canceled or postponed as of press time Friday, with most designers due to show today saying they were sticking to the schedule. A spokeswoman for IMG, which owns Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, said Friday, “We have been in constant contact throughout the night and into this morning with city officials, including the Mayor’s office, the NYPD, Council of Fashion Designers of America, the Department of Sanitation and the Department of Buildings. As we stated yes- terday, we have a proactive plan in place to deal with Nemo. That plan includes additional crews to help Heating with snow, ice and salt maintenance, increased inte- rior heating, among other precautions. We also have our tent architect and extra crews on site to help manage our structure during the storm. “Based on the most current weather models avail- COLLECTIONS able, it is becoming clear that most of the snow accu- mulation and high winds will occur late tonight and end Up by early tomorrow morning. Mass transit continues to FALL operate normally in New York, and there have been no Jason Wu put the NEW YORK 2013 service changes announced as of yet. In consultation with the city and CFDA, as well as our other partners, incoming blizzard we have decided not to close Mercedes-Benz Fashion aside on Friday for Week early this evening. All planned shows will go on as a collection he dubbed scheduled. We will continue to monitor the storm, and make changes to the schedule if they are needed.” “Extreme Femininity.” After making a significant A bigger problem occurred with the airlines, statement in power daywear, Wu softened slightly which canceled hundreds of flights to the New York area, disrupting travel plans. As of Friday after- with a series of elegant gowns and bustier dresses noon, 1,059 flights arriving to New York area airports with filmy skirts, such as this one-shouldered style (Newark Liberty International, John F. Kennedy and in sexy layers. For more, see pages 6 to 10. LaGuardia) were canceled, and 219 flights that were to arrive at New York area airports today were canceled, according to Flightaware.com. Kerry Youmans, senior vice president of KCD, which is handling about 25 shows and presentations during New York Fashion Week, said there were a group of editors who arrived before the storm, and about an equal number of international editors who have had delayed flights. “Most appear to be making it here by [this] afternoon or evening. We’re aware that could change further. A lot of them have re- booked for Saturday flights, so we’ll see. We have only a handful of people who have flat-out canceled.” Youmans said KCD would move ahead with a normal schedule for today and is monitoring the weather. PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE SEE PAGE 4 2 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 9, 2013 WWD.COM A Healthy Obsession: FIT Shows Shoes Hill found that the average American THE BRIEFING BOX By RACHEL STRUGATZ woman has two times the amount of shoes she did a decade ago. IN TODAY’S WWD NEW YORK — Valerie Steele, director “During ‘Sex and the City,’ there were and chief curator of the The Museum a handful of fanatics who knew about at The Fashion Institute of Technology, Manolo [Blahnik], but there’s been expo- was on her third pair of shoes before nential democratization [here.] They now Thursday’s fete for the new “Shoe know Nicholas Kirkwood and Charlotte Obsession” exhibition and correspond- Edmundo Castillo Olympia — and people are buying them,” ing book was even halfway over. Steele said. “Accessories are no longer ac- After slipping out of the black ver- cessories. They are the central picture.” tiginous Noritaka Tatehana wedges — Castillo, who had two pairs of shoes made famous by Lady Gaga and stand- featured, agreed. He called shoes “the” ing at eight inches — Steele changed object of desire, noting that styles la- into a pair of more modest 5-inch black beled “sky-high” 20 years ago are now platform Nicholas Kirkwood sandals to thought of as average heel height. welcome guests to the show, which will “What was considered unwearable run through April 18. and impractical by many people is now The 150-shoe exhibit, hosted in Charlotte Olympia a typical part of the selection of shoes at partnership with Saks Fifth Avenue, most retailers,” Castillo said, citing tech- contains footwear from designers like nology as allowing for the evolution of Manolo Blahnik, Jimmy Choo, Christian unique and artistic footwear that is still The scene at the party for Commes des Carres. Louboutin, Chanel, Roger Vivier, Pierre often wearable. For more, see WWD.com. Hardy, Nicholas Kirkwood, Charlotte Birman, who had three pairs of shoes Olympia, Tabitha Simmons, Alexandre on exhibit, said the past four years have Birman, Aperlai, Brian Atwood, brought a tremendous change to the Edmundo Castillo, Gucci, Andreia footwear industry. Chaves, Lanvin, Givenchy, Balenciaga, “We’re seeing emerging designers Charline DeLuca, Masaya Kushino and making a huge difference,” Birman said Aperlai of the category, once dominated solely Gianluca Tamburini. Birman, Castillo, JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY DeLuca, Kushino, Aperlai’s Alessandra by big designer houses and Louboutin, Lanvin and Tamburini were all in attendance. Blahnik and Choo. “Brian Atwood, Nicholas For Steele, who cocurated the show with associ- Kirkwood, Charlotte Olympia, Tabitha Simmons ate curator of accessories Colleen Hill, the obses- and Pierre Hardy are a lot of important designers sion with shoes has “ratcheted up to a new level.” that have huge space in shoe departments now.”

Chloe’s Super Sweet 16 Outside the New York shows. IMPENDING WINTER STORM singer Tori Kelly. The crowd, com- For more, see Nemo did not deter the tweens prised mostly of teenage girls and WWD.com. who descended upon Aéropostale’s fans of Moretz, could be found tak- PHOTO BY JENNA GREENEPHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY Times Square outpost for a dual ing self-portraits on their iPhones celebration on Thursday night: at any given moment. A blizzard walloping the Northeast put a damper on some Chloë Grace Moretz’s Sweet 16 The actress, clad in Chanel fashion events and took a toll on retail. PAGE ONE. birthday bash and Teen Vogue’s and an Aéropostale leather 10th-anniversary party (the jacket, revealed that her real actress is on the maga- birthday falls on Feb. 10. Valerie Steele, director and chief curator of the The zine’s March cover and an “But I got my presents Museum at The Fashion Institute of Technology, was on eye hand Thursday to fete the new “Shoe Obsession” exhibition Aéropostale brand ambassa- today,” she said, motioning Chloe dor). The store’s upper level toward her wrist. “It’s a sil- Grace and corresponding book. PAGE 2 had been transformed into a ver diamond bracelet with my Moretz in teenybopper paradise filled with letter, ‘C.’ And I got this ring, it’s Chanel. Aéropostale in Times Square was the spot of a dual helium balloons, a photo booth, lol- Victorian and it’s opal.” MARKER/BFANYC.COM ARTHUR PHOTO BY celebration Thursday night: Chloë Grace Moretz’s lipops, cakes, virgin cocktails and The biggest perk of the mile- Sarah Hyland, now 22, reflected Sweet 16 birthday bash and Teen Vogue’s 10th- Venetian masquerade masks. stone birthday, however, will be on her own sweet 16 party. anniversary party. PAGE 2 Julianne Moore, Victoria the ability to drive. “I was doing ‘Grey Gardens’ Justice, Jake T. Austin, Harley “I have literally just applied for on Broadway,” she said. “My 16th As the snow began to take Manhattan, the fashion Viera-Newton, Atlanta de Cadenet my permit,” she said. “My mom is birthday was on a Saturday — shows powered through including Jason Wu, Kate Spade and Irish pop duo John and teaching me. I know how to drive which you’d think would be awe- and others. PAGES 6 THROUGH 10. Edward Grimes, also known as stick. My mom is like, ‘I don’t wanna some — but we had a five-show Jedward, turned out for the party, buy you a new car. I’m gonna give weekend, so I had two shows that which featured musical perfor- you my car and I’m gonna get a new day. And I went to Olive Garden. I ON WWD.COM mances by Swedish synth-pop car.’ And I’m like, ‘Ugh! Teri! Why went…to Olive Garden. Unlimited artists Icona Pop and “America’s are you doing this to me?’” breadsticks on my birthday.” Most Talented Kids” winner and “Modern Family” actress — KRISTI GARCED EYE: Editors and Rei Kawakubo diehards gathered to toast Commes des Carres, an unlikely partnership between Comme MEDIA GADFLIES des Garçons and Hermès. For more, see WWD.com. VENUE CROWD SWAG IN ATTENDANCE MEMO PAD THEY ARE WEARING: WWD photographers go off-runway, FACE OFF: and Deborah Needleman Grand Media Four-week digital capturing the best street style of the season. For more, Kristina O’Neill both feted their Central intelligentsia subscription to Kurt Andersen, see WWD.com debuts, at the New York Times and DEBORAH Oyster and publicists the Times, and Katie Roiphe the Wall Street Journal, respectively, NEEDLEMAN Bar her first issue with parties on Thursday night. 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PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER STEVE BY PHOTOS Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. ©2013 Maybelline LLC. 4 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 9, 2013 Stores Close Early, While Fashion Soldiers On PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER, JENNA GREENE AND THOMAS IANNACCONE THOMAS AND GREENE JENNA EICHNER, STEVE BY PHOTOS

Some show attendees continued to put fashion ﬁrst…. …while others gave in to the weather with more appropritate footwear.

{Continued from page one} flight was canceled. She is now count for Uber car service. Yohji survival supplies. progress to make a determina- Men’s wear shows, such as slated to depart today, and Yamamoto’s Y-3 show downtown Simon Property Group, the tion Friday evening regarding Nautica, General Idea, Billy Reid “let’s just hope it takes off. It’s Sunday afternoon was still on nation’s largest shopping cen- Saturday’s operating hours. The and Tommy Hilfiger, all went absolutely maddening in every track. An Adidas spokeswoman ter developer, closed a total Maine Mall in Portland said off without a hitch on Friday. In way,” she said, adding, “I think said Friday, “The show has a of 20 malls and outlet centers it would be closing at 3 p.m., women’s, shows such as Rebeccca they’re very lucky in New York total of 540 seats and we are ex- through New England, most though the department store Minkoff, Yigal Azrouël, Monika this hasn’t happened” before pecting to fill them all. We are around 2 p.m. and a handful at 3 hours could vary. Chiang and Tocca, all scheduled since the shows leapfrogged to confident everything will be fine p.m. Simon’s Chestnut Hill mall At Copley Place in Boston, by for Friday afternoon, went on as the front of the international by Sunday. The weather forecast in Massachusetts closed at 11:30 around 1 p.m. the vast majority planned, as did Nicole Miller. calendar, putting the February shows a big sun for Sunday.” a.m. Woodbury Common was set of stores were closed, though Designers that are showing today, shows in the path of potentially Marc Jacobs has decided to to close early at 6 instead of 9 the center itself did not yet have such as Lacoste, Jill Stuart and inclement weather. show his Marc by Marc Jacobs p.m. The Roosevelt Field and a definite closing time on Friday Sun Jung Wan are all going ahead “I’m still hoping to get to collection on Monday at 8 p.m. at Walt Whitman malls on Long afternoon. with their shows. New York, although feeling in- The Theater at Lincoln Center, Island were still open as of At around 1 p.m., Taubman Paul Wilmot, whose p.r. firm is creasingly worried about how to following the designer’s decision about 4:30 Friday. Centers reported that its malls handling shows such as Ruffian, cross the Atlantic, with so many to move his Marc Jacobs collec- The Mall at Short Hills in in West Farms and Stamford, Christian Siriano and Nautica, canceled flights,” said Justine tion show to Thursday, Feb. 14 at New Jersey, owned by Taubman, Conn., would close by midday. said all the shows were going Picardie, editor of British 8 p.m., due to customs and deliv- closed at 4 p.m. Tanger Outlets said its ahead as planned. “Christian Harper’s Bazaar. “I’m just about ery delays. “This is not something we Riverhead center on Long Island welcomes the opportunity to to rush out to Uniqlo to buy a Meanwhile, stores and shop- fool around with,” said Frank would close at 5 p.m., instead of show in the face of the storm,” bundle of thermal vests and ping centers closed in large Castagna, principal of Castagna the normal 9 p.m. closing Friday. said Wilmot. Siriano shows on socks; but I’m wondering, should numbers as Nemo began pum- Realty and owner of the The outlet center in West Brook, today at 4 p.m. I be packing Wellington boots, melling the Northeast Friday. Americana Manhasset luxury Conn. and the Kittery outlet cen- Deborah Hughes, whose p.r. rather than Manolos?” With up to two feet of snow center. The Americana closed at ter in Maine both were closed by firm was working on several Editors from Vogue and feared in parts of New England, 5 p.m. on Friday, two hours ear- 2 p.m., and the Deer Park outlet shows over the weekend such as Tatler also were delayed Friday, retailers urged employees to lier than normal, and is set to center, also on Long Island, was Monika Chiang, Son Jung Wan but hope to arrive today. close early and stock up on food, reopen at noon today, two hours open but would reevaluate at 3 and Catherine Malandrino, said, Italian buyers and retailers water, shovels and other snow later than normal, Castagna p.m. “Everyone is reevaluating “We’ve had a few people say they are expected to leave today and said. That will provide ample at 7 a.m. Saturday morning,” said aren’t coming, but all the shows are waiting to hear from the time for the Americana crew to a spokesman for Tanger, about are going forward. Everything’s airline companies whether the operate its melters and clear all of the companies properties moving along. People are arriving flights are confirmed. U.K. buy- the ice. “One of the reasons we in the path of the storm. in high heels and have scarves ers are also hoping to cover the want employees out of here is Tiffany & Co. planned to close over their heads,” said Hughes, New York shows as usual: “Yes to start the cleanup,” Castagna its Fifth Avenue flagship two who was stationed at the tents. we are still planning to attend, said. “We want our shoppers hours early Friday, going dark at Libby Haan, whose firm Haan and after the snow in Paris dur- to know that if they can get out 5 p.m. And 13 of the luxe jewel- Projects is working on shows, such ing pre-collections, we are pre- on the road, they don’t have to er’s other stores in Nemo’s path as Monique Lhuillier at 7 p.m., pared for the weather,” said worry about ice here.” were either closed by midaft- said, “All tent shows are moving Laura Larbalestier, buying di- Late Friday afternoon, J.C. ernoon or planning to shutter forward.” She said a couple of rector at Browns in London. “We Penney reported that about 50 early. “Our corporate office is editors from the U.K. had to can- are just sorry we can’t wear all stores were either closed or clearing out now,” said a Tiffany cel out of the Thakoon show on our spring clothes and we have closing early due to the storm. spokesman around 3 p.m. Sunday, but most of the European to re-create our winter ward- At Macy’s Inc., which operates A spokeswoman for Fifth editors were already here. robe once again.” Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s, six & Pacific Cos. Inc. said early Menkes, fashion editor of the To make sure key guests made Macy’s stores closed early in Friday afternoon: “Our offices International Herald Tribune, it to Charlotte Ronson’s Friday Fun with a Massachusetts and Connecticut are not closing early, rather we was slated to fly to New York night presentation, her p.r. team traffic sign. on Friday, between noon and 2 are asking people to use discre- Friday from London, but her offered 30 of them a $40 dis- p.m. “Obviously we are watch- tion. Some retail stores in the ing the storm closely and mak- Northeast that are directly in ing decisions about stores the path of the storm are either individually based on local con- closed now or closing early.” ditions,” said corporate spokes- Then there were the par- man Jim Sluzewski. ties around fashion week. Kate At Bergdorf Goodman, “We Spade was going ahead with do not have plans to close early, its 25th anniversary celebra- but we are watching the weath- tion Friday night, while Bulgari er very closely. We will have planned to hold its party for phone-charging stations in the 800 to celebrate The Serpenti women’s store on 5F and in the Retrospective and The Year men’s store on three, and we of The Snake tonight. After will have hot cocoa on 5F and the weather turned, the luxu- hot cider in the men’s shoe li- ry company decided to hire a brary, all starting at 2 p.m. today welcoming crew to help keep [Friday],” said a spokeswoman. guests warm an dry en route to Barneys New York officials the boutique. Ten trenchcoat- were “monitoring the situation” wearing men will stand out front but because there’s “no accumu- holding six-foot umbrellas and lation” at this point, there were offering guests hand warmers. no plans to close any stores as of — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS early Friday afternoon. FROM LISA LOCKWOOD, The Natick Mall, one of the DAVID MOIN, MILES SOCHA, largest in Massachusetts, re- JEAN PALMIERI, ROSEMARY Snow plows tried to stay ahead of the storm. mained closed Friday and said FEITELBERG, EVAN CLARK AND it would be watching the storm’s LORELEI MARFIL

6 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 9, 2013

Jason Wu: Jason Wu has been pretty vocal about his desire to Jason Wu Kenneth Cole Collection Kenneth Cole Collection mature his uptown, polished look and redefine it in a sexier, edgier context. Sex appeal was the overt guiding principle of his spring and pre-fall collections, and the same could be said for fall, though Wu preferred to call the lineup “Extreme Femininity.” A few days before the show he said he “wanted to loop back to what I started on, the very thing I do, which is beautiful, very feminine clothes.” He did that, eventually, closing the show with a series of elegant gowns in draped point d’esprit georgette. The finale was a highlight, with two of the best looks featuring draped peplum tops — one red, one black — that cut away to float over stovepipe tuxedo pants. It played into the pants-for- evening idea that’s been floating around and would be nice to see actually take root in red-carpet reality. Wu’s softness came after a significant statement in power daywear, which, while sophisticated and confident, had a hardness to it. Part of that was due to the colors he chose: black, white, red and a caramel shade=, with the final dress in violet. Showing sharply tailored outerwear with military and fur details in strict black and white underscored the glamorous aggression, as did the use of exaggerated white shirt collars. Lindsey Wixson in a black polka-dot dress, belted with a flounce at the waist and a thick, white fold-over collar, looked like a secretary with a secret. Most appealing were the pleated cocktail dresses with leather details, bustier tops and filmy skirts, and a day look that paired a black crewneck with sheer stripes with pants in a marbled bonded wool. These struck a chic middle ground between his pretty beginnings and this newfound sex factor. NEW YORK

Kenneth Cole Collection: It has COLLECTIONS been 30 years since Kenneth Cole got started selling shoes from a truck, and seven since he last showed on a runway during New York Fashion Week. Much has since changed, including the advent of social media, which Cole embraced wholeheartedly this season. An Fall elaborate video intro featured catchy tag lines — “Yield to Social Netwalking,” “We don’t care if people love it, we just want them to ‘like’ it” — and, during the ﬁnale, Cole’s models aimed handheld devices at the audience. If it played as a 2013THE CALM BEFORE THE STORM: little gimmicky, it had a certain SEX APPEAL AT JASON WU, charm, particularly since, A DOWNTOWN VIBE AT KENNETH COLE, as they clicked and tweeted, A MILESTONE CELEBRATION AT NAUTICA the models wore those most AND SO MUCH MORE. obscure of fashion accessories — big smiles. Against an impressive backdrop projection of the New York skyline, Cole and and knitted skirts with an air The outerwear, including man may not be the newest celebrated all things New York, creative director Kobi Halperin of casual chic. But their appeal voluminous wool coats, kid in town, he definitely has fashioning iconic symbols into presented a lineup with a was sometimes shrouded by sharply cut topcoats with a confident, sexy attitude. various fun looks. A yellow-and- distinct downtown vibe. The the aggressive styling: extreme contrasting leather sleeves, Traditional brand staples such black checkerboard taxi motif clothes were rendered mostly layering, strange hologramlike hooded parkas and cropped as parkas were reinvented inspired a tweed skirt and an in black and gray with some lenticular panels of moving puffers were the standouts. in sleeker silhouettes, giving oversize color-blocked jacket; a military green and burgundy, birds. Cole’s best exits were a more upscale feel with fur graphic black-and-white apple along with lots of leather the least complicated, such Nautica: Returning to the runway trim and wool paneling, while print was shown on a flounced details and metallics, like the as a color-blocked gray-and- to celebrate Nautica’s 30th fisherman sweaters were bustier dress and skinny jeans, shimmery yarn shot through burgundy wool coat over a anniversary, creative director statement pieces and offered in and a sprinkle donut image a sweater and the big silver ruched jersey dress. Chris Cox delivered a strong a subtle color palette. appeared on a sweatshirt. lapels on a black coat. The Cole extended the futuristic and well-edited effort. Form- Studio 54 was another mood was at once urban and touch to his men’s wear with fitting merino wool sweaters Kate Spade New York: For a major influence, worked into a short futuristic. Taken apart, there some demonstrative looks, i.e., worn with softly constructed portion of Kate’s Spade 20th tuxedo suit, a feathered chubby were many strong pieces, a wool bomber jacket worked sport jackets over nylon leggings anniversary collection, creative jacket and leopard prints that including an array of outerwear with another lenticular trick. proved that, while the Nautica director Deborah Lloyd harkened back to the famous WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 9, 2013 7 WWD.COM

Nautica Kate Spade New York

Lyn Devon

FOR MORE REVIEWS AND PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/ runway.

disco’s banquettes. Lloyd also Lyn Devon: A New Yorker, beige used on a peacoat, were collaborated with artist Craig born and raised, Lyn Devon a great ﬁt for her look. Redman, best know for his is a bona ﬁde city girl who Devon shortened her Darcel Disappoints character. daydreams about cashing it hemlines, showing a gray, He recreated the cartoon prints in for a farm upstate. She paperbag-waisted mini with a in Lloyd’s likeness (along with let this idea guide her fall cropped turtleneck in a chunky her dog, Lulu), which showed collection, which hit all her melange knit, and worked in up on sweaters and T-shirts. hallmarks — exceptional some novelty effects, covering The accessories picked up fabrics built into sportswear an oversize “husband” coat on the playful motifs via enamel with a classic sensibility — in customized brooches. Her charms on necklaces and pins while drawing out a younger, way with the girl-meets-boy and a black satin sandal with more playful energy. The tradition — i.e., pairing a a tuxedo “collar” at the ankle. hearty, rustic quality of the nifty silicone-embroidered Even a pair of sunglasses colors and materials, such as lace corset with bag-waisted formed an open pair of lips in navy velvet, orange corduroy velvet tuxedo trousers — felt homage to the disco era. and a great nubby boucle in extra-charming. GEORGE CHINSEE, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND STEPHEN SULLIVAN ANTONOV, PASHA PHOTOS BY 8 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 9, 2013

Yigal Azrouël Edun Band of Outsiders

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Yigal Azrouël: Yigal Azrouël Edun: Designer Sharon Wauchob accent to a concise lineup. men’s show: A Manhattan Rebecca Minkoff: With her continued to play with said for fall, Edun was all about For the first time, men’s scavenger hunt had two new store opening in New fabrics and skins for his fall polishing up youth-culture wear was incorporated into the models racing to places like York this summer, Rebecca collection, often mixing them classics, and with founders women’s presentation. Men’s Momofuku Milk Bar, the Lego Minkoff was thinking about in one piece. Ponyskin sleeves Ali Hewson and Bono in the designer Ricky Hendry played store and the headquarters of a well-rounded lifestyle. could be zipped off a wool audience, she hit the proverbial out a similar biker stance with Tumblr. After each found clues, There were party frocks in coat, and leather accents nail on the head. The space washed leather motorcycle contestants-models Matt and pop colors, easy day pieces showed up on sleeves and they chose for the show was all jackets, skinny jeans in coated Miles returned to a Plexiglas like ripped denim and pant legs. These combinations concrete and harsh lighting, denim and cropped peacoats room atop a roving truck and quilted leather and some fun were rendered with mixed which complemented a styled with plaid shirts and changed into the fall collection rounded-shoulder tops that results. Azrouël, who cited collection that’s best described perforated knits. The result was that included corduroy jackets, winked at the space suits she “the energy of phantasm, as hard yet familiar. There downtown cool with touches of quilted sweatshirts and an had in mind when designing danger and chilling allure” in were black leather biker crafted depth and dimension. oxford shirt and tie, the latter this collection. his show notes, amped up his jackets, iconic plaids printed decorated with a subway But Minkoff knows her construction with shoulder on silk blouses and some acid- Band of Outsiders: Band of map pattern. Little design girl is a rock ’n’ roll tomboy treatments and sculpted yellow tweed pieces that, with Outsiders is to fashion as Wes flourishes like pockets turned at heart, so she made sure silhouettes on several body- leather collars, felt more punk Anderson is to films: geeky, on their sides, as if they’d to include looks such as conscious dresses. These than ladylike. Speaking of twee and endearing. The same passed out, were predictably a bomber jacket-track added a strong attitude to punk, Wauchob created pseudo- could be said of designer precious — and of course pant combo in leather and the looks, which he softened piercings out of tiny grommets Scott Sternberg’s approach to the day’s proceedings were burnout plaid, respectively, with several chunky knits that and chains that decorated fashion shows, and he enjoys streamed over the brand’s as well as hologram pumps seemed perfect for the next draped tops and replaced a smart-aleck twist on them, Web site, Instagram feed and and bags that will likely fly blizzard. buttons on cuffs — a fitting as he did this year with his Tumblr page. Matt won. off the shelves. WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 9, 2013 9 WWD.COM COLLECTIONS Rebecca Cushnie et Ochs Pierre Pierre Minkoff FALL Balmain Balmain NEW YORK 2013

Timo Weiland

N.Hoolywood PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, KYLE ERICKSEN, GIOVANNI GIANNONI ERICKSEN, GIOVANNI AND THOMAS IANNACCONE GEORGE CHINSEE, KYLE JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY

Cushnie et Ochs: Carly Cushnie Pierre Balmain: Balmain’s navy-and-black combinations the duo’s catchy windowpane and grease monkey togs was and Michelle Ochs sent out secondary line, Pierre and strong tailoring with short, trousers and the hat modeled not by chiseled a polished look for fall. The Balmain, was presented as form-fitted, double-breasted collaboration with Albertus models but by ordinary show opened with a beautiful a digital runway show this blazers, some great coats and Swanepoel, and the hits kept guys cast off the street who white sleeveless blouse season and, according to the a chic navy tuxedo with black coming. While Weiland was were given a crash course in and miniskirt, sans their show notes, was all about lapels and buttons. nursing a broken arm from a walking a runway. signature cutouts, which “style avengers.” Think Emma holiday skiing accident, the The Twenties and Thirties proved the design duo are Peel wearing ultraskinny Timo Weiland: Timo Weiland mishap didn’t seem to slow vibe was highlighted by bomber capable of much more. And pants, bold giraffe prints showed his men’s and women’s down the momentum for jackets, Western denim shirts while there was still plenty and only a few touches of collections separately this this youthful label. (See the and slightly awkward bow tie of that kind of detail, what embellishment, like gold season — and the men’s women’s review at WWD.com.) looks, all updated for today’s followed was a nice balance embroidery on a cool navy wear was all the better for hipsters with touches like a of streamlined looks, namely T-shirt or eyelet details on it. “We didn’t want to have to N.Hoolywood: Amelia Earhart skull motif on a varsity jacket. the fox fur jackets, a crisp a leather jacket. The design make them match,” Weiland was inspiration for the Rich men’s wear fabrics and white shirt with white wide- team topped off many looks noted. Jackets with hexagon charming men’s N.Hoolywood an expert feel for modern leg trousers and a sleek top with some terrific outerwear quilting, wool coats adorned collection, but rather than silhouettes kept the show from and skirt in black kangaroo including fringed biker with neckwear patterns and channel the trailblazing veering into costume territory. calfskin. An abstract woods jackets and an elegant gold a sweater decorated with pilot herself, designer Set to a toe-tapping soundtrack print on a blouse and buttoned cape. an image of design partner Daisuke Obana looked to her of souped-up swing music, matching pleated skirt The Parisian cool of the Alan Eckstein’s dachshund, supporting cast of training this fanciful and winning added a nice pop, helping to women’s clothes paired nicely Coconut, were ready-made pilots and maintenance crews. collection was a deft medley of break up the monochromatic with the men’s collection, for the trendy Brit-pop scene In that vein, the lineup of past and present, classic and lineup. which made a statement via that inspired the lineup. Add vintage-looking flight suits progressive. 10 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 9, 2013 WWD.COM

Kelly Wearstler: “Raw and Kelly Carmen Tess Tess Giberson: Drawing refined” is how Kelly Wearstler Marc Giberson inspiration from the craft Wearstler described Valvo movement, Tess Giberson this collection. It’s a showed a strong, edited lineup mix she’s been honing with a great balance of texture, for the past few seasons proportion, color and detail. while finding her place Culling references from a quilt in the competitive retail her mother, an artist, made environment, and it’s a mix in the Seventies, Giberson that works. Simple basics explored various ways of are not in Wearstler’s building details. Knits evolved repertoire so a leather from sleeves on one coat into a T-shirt had contrast insets, full dress woven in an abstract, knits were quirky with colorful pattern. A black-and- sparkly epaulets and the white print added pop to an denim was pure novelty. architecturally cut dress while While most of her jeans, serving as an added detail on a category she’s pushing, the seams of another. leaned toward skinny with Layering is central to overdye treatments or a Giberson’s aesthetic and her sprinkling of jet beads combos were effortlessly (perhaps a nod to her new styled. Leather, wool, fur and black diamond fine jewelry netting looked cool together, collection?), the boyfriend giving her girl an arty urban- styles felt particularly warrior vibe. Standouts fresh with rips and tears, included a fur-sleeved coat their openings filled with over a leather skirt and a metallic gold thread. group of colorful knits.

Carmen Marc Valvo: Carmen Sachin + Babi: Sachin and Marc Valvo steered Babi Ahluwalia presented away from the glitz and a fun collection marked focused on sensuality for by structure and tailoring. fall. The designer mixed Sporty Neoprene, a favorite fabrics and textures in material here, was sculpted his beautifully cut and into dresses, tops, jackets and inventive evening looks, even a great sweatshirt in a including an ivory silk COLLECTIONS northern lights print. Other gown with an alligator notable looks included a inset and a combination herringbone jacquard coat and of leather and lace for FALL dress that looked graphic and both long and cocktail NEW YORK 2013 modern, and a cool sequined dresses. A short-sleeved tracksuit for evening. floating Chantilly lace gown exemplified Valvo at Tadashi Shoji: The strength of his b est. Tadashi Shoji’s glamorous Sachin + Tadashi collection was more sensual, Babi Shoji less sizzle. Cocktail dresses and gowns with blouson tops, Watteau backs and dropped waists covered more than they bared and moved gracefully over the body. Looks both long and short were shown in bonded lace, paisley printed gazar and cut or washed velvets — some with beaded FASHION insets and leather belts — and were a testament to the designer’s terriﬁc restraint.

Tome: Fresh off their Ecco CAREERS Domani win in January, Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin’s star continues to rise with their first fashion week COME IN DIFFERENT SIZES: presentation for Tome. The FOR MORE REVIEWS Australian duo cited Georgia AND PHOTOS, SEE O’Keeffe — the woman and her art — as inspiration for WWD.com/ dresses, coats and shirting, runway. all elegant in their simplicity. S, M, L Chic gray wool toppers cocooned around the body Tome Haus while a long, crisp white shirt Alkire and long black skirt had a AND Southwest bent when topped with a black hat.

Haus Alkire: Sometimes, beauty can be found in devastation. Such was the case for Julie NYC Haus, who was inspired by the aftereffects of Hurricane Sandy. Walking around www.limcollege.edu/wwd the ghost town that was downtown Manhattan last fall, the designer stumbled onto a new kind of beauty. Her collection for Haus Alkire included a “banksia ﬂower” Business and fashion come together in a unique way at LIM College. pattern on long, pleated skirts With hundreds of the industry’s top companies as partners, and and frocks that was shot with expert faculty, a rigorous curriculum, and our prime location by her husband while they in the world’s fashion capital, this is a hands-on, professional were living by candlelight, education — WHERE BUSINESS MEETS FASHION® — unlike and a “dream tree” print anywhere else. that appeared on shirts and www.limcollege.edu • 800.677.1322 • 12 E. 53rd St. New York, NY trousers. The designer also worked with exotic skins such as eel on tops and lizard

PHOTOS BY PASHA ANTONOV, JOHN AQUINO, KYLE ERICKSEN, GIOVANNI GIANNONI ERICKSEN, GIOVANNI AND THOMAS IANNACCONE KYLE JOHN AQUINO, ANTONOV, PASHA PHOTOS BY collars on dresses.

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NOTHING BEATS 50 YEARS OF STABILITY. WWDMILESTONESSECTION II

atIn eight decades, Lacoste has turned a classic80 shirt into a $2.3 billion empire.

DURAN’S DIRECTIVE Q THROUGH THE YEARS QTHE CLASSIC SPIN 2 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 9, 2013

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WWDMILESTONES Duran’s Directive The new ceo calls the year ahead a time to regroup. By Joelle Diderich

AS IT MARKS its 80th anniversary, Lacoste is getting The sportswear maker, which manages some 1,200 ready to write a fresh chapter. José Luis Duran freestanding Lacoste stores worldwide, will also add The maker of crocodile-logo polo shirts has a new 10 separate units, primarily in Asia, for its Lacoste boss, José Luis Duran, after being taken over last Live line, which targets a younger, more contempo- November by Swiss retail group Maus Frères SA in rary customer. a deal that valued it at 1 billion euros, or $1.3 billion. “For us, 2013 is a big year of reorganization,” In January, Duran was named chief executive of- Duran said. “We have made huge investments over ficer of Lacoste SA while also remaining at the helm the last three years. We remain in a somewhat dif- of Devanlay SA, the Maus Frères subsidiary that has ficult environment for the economy and consumer held the global apparel license for Lacoste since spending, so globally we are going to digest, rein- 1999. This brings the production and ownership of force, improve and fine-tune what we have done.” the brand under the same roof. He also wants to redirect resources toward direct “In the next few weeks, I will be forming a sin- communication with consumers. With a Facebook gle top management team,” Duran told WWD in his page that has been liked more than 11 million times, office in Paris. “I will be asking my teams for more Lacoste benefits from strong brand recognition and alignment, more coherence and more efficiency in enduring appeal, but Duran believes those assets are the service of the brand.” not being exploited well enough. The relationship between Lacoste and Devanlay “I am convinced that a greater share of our mar- has already been fruitful, he noted. keting budget should go to digital initiatives and a smaller share to print — how much exactly, I don’t know,” he said. The executive wants the company to project a more innovative approach in all areas, from advertising to product and store windows. “We have to create a ‘wow’ impact through all these elements,” he said. Central to its communications efforts this year is a series of 80th-anniversary initiatives, including capsule collections revolving around Lacoste’s iconic cotton piqué polo shirt. Graphic artist Peter Saville, famous for his album covers for Factory Records in the Eighties, has designed a logo, which appears on products including focused on operations, Duran noted. 12 limited-edition custom polo kits, on sale exclu- Lacoste has an aggressive store The former Carrefour ceo, who took over sively on Facebook. Lacoste also plans a roving exhi- expansion and renovation plan Devanlay in 2009, characterized the year ahead bition, which is to tour Asia. in progress. Here, the Champs- as a time to regroup. Going forward, Duran will Duran noted that China is increasingly important, Elysées store. push for better integration between Lacoste vaulting to the third spot among its top 10 markets and its various license holders — Pentland last year from number eight just four years ago. Group for footwear, Procter & Gamble Prestige Traditional European markets like Spain and Italy for fragrances, Movado Group for watches and have slid from the top 10, however, as austerity mea- In 2012, Lacoste posted record wholesale volume of Charmant Group for eyewear, among others. sures force households to tighten their purse strings. 1.8 billion euros, or $2.31 billion, up 13 percent from “When I look at our different marketing cam- The U.S. remains Lacoste’s largest single market, the previous year, with strong growth in all regions. paigns, they are all individually good. The question generating 21 percent of revenues, but other regions Sales of ready-to-wear rose 12 percent, leather is whether everything is coherent, unique, aligned are catching up. Asia now represents 25 percent of goods were up 60 percent, and shoes posted a 20 and efficient,” Duran said. “I’m going to ask every- sales, Latin America 14 percent, and Europe, the percent increase, Duran said. Perfume sales lagged, one — perfumes, shoes, etc. — to be a little more dis- Middle East and Africa 40 percent. inching up just 2 percent, after the launch of the new ciplined, a little more in line with what I expect in “Our geographic portfolio is becoming increasingly Eau de Lacoste women’s fragrance was postponed to terms of brand positioning.” balanced,” said Duran. “Today we no longer depend early 2013. Having opened or renovated a series of global on a single country, as we did five or six years ago.” The results, Duran noted, “prove that we have flagships in recent years, including its unit on the Nonetheless, the executive is cautiously project- been working together well. But at the end of the day, Avenue des Champs-Elysées in Paris, Lacoste is fo- ing single-digit growth in 2013. we are merging two teams that work in very different cusing mostly on emerging markets, where it plans “I prefer that we continue building the business ways and with slightly different visions, so it’s going to open stores averaging 1,300 to 1,400 square feet. and figure out every day how we can make the brand to take a little time.” That will include between 10 and 15 stores in more upscale, rather than chasing turnover,” he said. Until recently, Lacoste was majority-owned by China, three to four in Turkey, four in Russia and two “For a company that is 80 years old, six to nine the heirs of René Lacoste, the French tennis hero in Argentina, where Lacoste is taking over two for- months of digesting change is not a long time, and we and businessman who founded the company in 1933 mer Polo Ralph Lauren locations. In addition, it will have to be a little patient. But I think that over the with his partner André Gillier. Its culture was mainly renovate its two largest stores in Amsterdam, and next three to five years, we have a real opportunity for image-driven, while Devanlay has traditionally been one in the Arkadia shopping mall in Warsaw. additional growth in existing licenses and markets.”

The storied history of the brand of the crocodile René THROUGH THE YEARS... spans eight decades. Here are some highlights. Lacoste, 1923. 1904 Future tennis legend René 1940-1946 Production is inter- Lacoste would be associated for son, takes over as chairman. Lacoste is born in France. rupted during World War II, many years. but in 1946, starts again in the 1964 Exports start to Japan. 1927 Lacoste, whose nickname French market. 1959-1960 Children’s wear is the Crocodile, for his tenacity launches; shorts and striped 1966 Lacoste signs an apparel on the court, makes a white polo 1951 The petit piqué cotton polo shirts are introduced. manufacturing deal in the U.S. shirt for his personal use on the polo shirt begins to appear in tennis court, bearing an embroi- color; exports to Italy start. 1961 Apparel manufactur- 1968 Launch of Lacoste Eau dered crocodile on the chest. ing and distribution license is de Toilette, produced under li- 1952 Apparel exports to the signed for Spain. cense by Jean Patou. 1933 Creation of the Lacoste U.S. start. A year later, David company. Industrial production Crystal, owner of what even- 1963 René Lacoste invents the 1971 Lacoste sponsors Roland of the first Lacoste shirts, in tually became Crystal Brands steel racket, paving the way for Garros. particular the white “petit and the Izod label, buys 50 per- today’s models, and the first I Japanese production and dis- piqué” cotton polo shirt, code- cent of the distribution rights Lacoste tennis shoe. tribution license is signed.

named the “L.12.12.” to Lacoste for the U.S. Izod and I Bernard Lacoste, René’s eldest {Continued on page 4} HENRI MANUEL PHOTO BY

4 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 9, 2013

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The classic polo is constantly The ‘Classic’ Dilemma evolving. Updating a venerable brand image while maintaining a sense of heritage — that’s Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s mission. By Joelle Diderich

HOW DO YOU breathe new life into grow beyond its sportswear roots. a classic? Felipe “I think it’s no longer just a ques- That is the challenge faced by Oliveira tion of fashion, it’s a sociological issue. Lacoste artistic director Felipe Baptista Thirty years ago, Casual Friday was a Oliveira Baptista, charged with propel- treat. Nowadays, for a lot of people, ling the crocodile-logo polo shirt into every day is Casual Friday,” he re- the 21st century. marked. “I don’t think there are many While men’s wear represented 64 brands that have created an iconic percent of sales last year, the brand piece of clothing that is in every ward- has placed a growing emphasis on its robe and that is made by many other women’s collections — which account brands, so it is our duty to make it for 20 percent of revenues — and evolve and rethink it more or less con- opened two dedicated women’s stores stantly,” said Baptista. in Paris. Originally worn by René Lacoste on Meanwhile, the Lacoste Live line, the tennis court, the L.12.12 polo shirt aimed at a younger customer, has this year celebrates its 80th anniver- grown to 10 percent of sales, versus sary with a series of special editions. just 2 percent in 2009, while accesso- For his fall collection, showing ries make up the remaining 6 percent. today during New York Fashion Week, scapes and bold architecture. Then there are the collaborations: Baptista went a step further, bond- “It’s also about Lacoste in the fu- In 2013, graphic designer Peter Saville ing the shirt’s trademark cotton petit ture, and the brand’s ties to innovation, will follow in the footsteps of such piqué fabric with textiles such as ul- because René Lacoste was not just a artists as the Campana brothers and Spring trafine jersey, wool, leather and cotton great tennis player, he was an inventor Jonathan Adler to create Lacoste’s an- 2013 to expand its use to other categories, — the polo shirt was one of many ideas nual Holiday Collector’s series. Saville like outerwear. he had. So I wanted to pay homage to has also designed a logo for the anni- “Last season, we worked a lot on the his inventive character and to revive versary, which appears on a range of “I hope people continue to perceive house’s heritage and played with the this technical and functional aspect of limited-edition polo shirts. Lacoste as a classic brand with a very symbols of tennis. This time around, the brand,” he added. Baptista, meanwhile, is working on strong identity and image, but also in I wanted to approach the heritage in Since succeeding Christophe a project with Japanese manga stu- tune with the times,” he said. “So it has a slightly more conceptual, futuristic Lemaire at Lacoste in 2010, Baptista dio Tezuka Productions. But for all these roots, this classicism, this quality way,” said the Portuguese-born design- has implemented a more segmented his riffs on the house’s codes, the de- and this timeless side, but it continues er, sitting in his Paris office in front approach to designing its ready-to- signer’s vision for the next five years is to seduce and be relevant to people of a mood board showing polar land- wear, with the aim of helping the brand firmly grounded in basics. today. That’s what my job is all about.”

1995 The first American 1998 Devanlay is taken over 2003 Lacoste Pour Femme Lacoste boutiques open in by the Maus family (90 per- scent launches. THROUGH THE YEARS... Palm Beach and Bal Harbour, cent) and Lacoste (10 percent). I Lacoste stages its first fash- {Continued from page 2} 1988 Licensed manufactur- Fla. The Maus family, through ion show in New York. ing and distribution starts in I Licensed distribution starts Devanlay, thus becomes a 1978 The company licenses Thailand. in Russia. 35 percent shareholder of 2004 Touch of Pink scent Cahours de Virgile for eye- I Phillips-Van Heusen ac- Lacoste, with the remaining launches and is ranked among wear and agrees to a manu- 1990 Launch of Lacoste’s quires Izod from Crystal 65 percent belonging to the the top fragrances sold in facturing and distribution Equijet racket. Brands, divorcing Lacoste Lacoste family. Europe’s main countries. deal in Brazil. I Turkish and Mexican licens- from Izod. I The Lacoste Piqué Stretch es are signed. 1999 License is signed for polo boosts the brand, particu- 1981 Lacoste collaborates 1996 René Lacoste dies. Lacoste home textiles with larly in the U.S., which, at year- with L’Amy on a line of sun- 1991 Pentland Group is li- I First Moscow shop opens. the Descamps SA unit of the end, is Lacoste’s top market. glasses and optical frames. censed for Lacoste Leisure I Lacoste’s Web site launches. Zucchi-Bassetti group. Edgar Hamon is licensed for shoes. I Store opens on Madison 2005 Tennis star Andy belts and Sogedi for travel and Avenue. 2000 Christophe Lemaire Roddick, 22, signs a five-year sport bags. 1992 A license is signed to succeeds Gilles Rosier and is deal to becomes a Lacoste am- make and distribute apparel A look from responsible for the artistic di- bassador. 1982 Delorme is licensed for in India. 1998. rection of Devanlay’s Lacoste I Michel Lacoste becomes towels, sheets and bathrobes. activities. His first apparel chairman and ceo, succeed- I The world’s first Lacoste 1993 A worldwide manufac- collection will be for spring ing his brother Bernard, who boutique opens on Avenue turing agreement is signed 2002. steps down for health reasons Victor Hugo in Paris. with Devanlay S.A., indus- I Worldwide license for and is named honorary chair- trial partner and associate of bags, travel items and small man. 1983 Patrick Co. wins the li- Lacoste, granting Devanlay leather goods is signed with I P&G Prestige Beauté cense for sport shoes. exclusive worldwide manu- Samsonite. launches Lacoste Essential I Licensed manufacturing facturing rights through June worldwide. and distribution starts in 2012. 2001 Procter & Gamble Australia. I Marking its 60th anniversa- Prestige Beauté is licensed 2006 Bernard Lacoste dies. ry, Lacoste organizes a world- for Lacoste fragrances and I Mexican golfer Lorena 1985 Launch of Lacoste ten- wide campaign in support beauty. Ochoa signs with Lacoste. nis shoes, followed by deck of the fight against multiple I Movado Group wins a shoes in 1986 and walking sclerosis, raising more than $1 2002 The first new con- long-term global license for shoes in 1988. million. cept boutique opens in watches. Düsseldorf, followed by shops I The René Lacoste 1986 Licensed apparel manu- 1994 Lacoste licenses the in Omotesando in Tokyo, Lyon, Foundation is created under facturing and distribution Swiss company Roventa- Orlando, Berlin, London, the aegis of the Fondation de starts in South Korea and Henex to produce watches Istanbul and the next year, France, helping young peo- Argentina. and Vimont SA for distribu- Paris and New York. ple to find their way in life tion. I P&G Prestige Beauté launch- through sport. 1987 Seibu Saison takes over I Licensed apparel distribu- es Lacoste Pour Homme world- I Vincenzo Zucchi SpA is li- the license for Japan. tion starts in China, and a bou- wide with a major ad campaign censed for home textiles.

tique opens in Shanghai. STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY by Herb Ritts. {Continued on page 6} MOVADO GROUP CONGRATULATES LACOSTE ON ITS MILESTONE 80TH ANNIVERSARY 6 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 9, 2013

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WWDMILESTONES

Simone Thion de la Chaume wins the British Open golf Family Values championship, 1927. Starting with founder René, the Lacoste family steered the company for more than 75 years. By Alex Wynne

IT MIGHT HAVE begun with a shirt, but René times, Wimbledon twice and the U.S. National Lacoste and his family formed the foundation of the Championships twice — the first Frenchman to win company that is still a major player today. the American competition. The revolutionary polo that made Lacoste’s name His determination came from a desire to be the resonate around the world was born from a best at whatever he did, fam- personal frustration with the long-sleeve attire ily members recall. For exam- the tennis champion was forced to wear on the ple, René Lacoste studied his courts, driving him to design the breathable, opponents’ games and wrote short-sleeve L.12.12 shirt that remains a classic. page after page of notes on their techniques. “My grandfather was always René Lacoste wins trying to make things better,” the Forest Hills tennis said Beryl Lacoste Hamilton, championship, 1927. René’s granddaughter. When forced to stop playing tennis due to ill health in 1929, he turned his eye to his inventions. René patent- ed around 50 designs in total, from a ball-delivery machine firm until last year. to the first steel tennis racket. “The product was there, but my father took it to He also nurtured young the next level with the help of my Uncle Michel,” Catherine Lacoste, 1967. sporting talents in tennis and Lacoste Hamilton explained. golf. His wife, Simone Thion “It was this trio of very strong personalities, each de la Chaume, was France’s very good in an area,” she added, describing the fam- first female international golf champion, and the ily’s driving values as “teamwork, sport, entrepre- Chantaco golf course opened by her father was one neurship, doing your best.…” of the first in France to be open to all and promote René Lacoste was no doubt a visionary. The croco- young players from all walks of life, including the dile logo on his shirts is regarded in branding his- couple’s daughter, Catherine, another golfing great. tory as the first instance of a visible logo, although, “My grandparents met because of sport,” Lacoste ironically, it was criticized as vulgar at the time. Hamilton commented. “They wanted to give back to And while the concept of product placement had sport, because sport gave them a lot.” not yet been invented, René Lacoste gave his croco- While Lacoste had been producing shirts since dile shirts to friends to wear on the courts, building 1933, it was his eldest son, Bernard, Beryl’s father, brand awareness. who transformed the business into what it is today. Bernard Lacoste’s vision was also ahead of his “My father saw the business was there, he was time, taking the brand global before internation- selling a few thousand shirts, but really nothing,” al expansion was the norm, opening a network of said Lacoste Hamilton. “He went to his dad and said, stand-alone boutiques and building the licensing ‘Let me have a hand at the business, I think it has a model on which the company’s business is still lot of potential and I would like to do something with based today. PHOTOS COPYRIGHT LACOSTE it.’ My grandfather said, ‘You can’t do that, Bernard, “When you think of teamwork, you also think of you have a family to raise, there’s no way you’re the structure that Lacoste became, thanks to my The rare mix of sports and engineering that going to be able to support them.’ My father said, ‘Let uncle [Bernard], who sought out partners throughout carved the company’s identity harked from further me see what we can achieve.’ At the time, it was not the world and in different product categories,” said back: René Lacoste’s father made his fortune in an obvious choice.” Sophie Lacoste Dournel, Michel Lacoste’s daugh- electronics for the automotive and aerospace in- That was the beginning of a new era for the firm, ter, who founded the philanthropic René Lacoste dustries, but was also a keen sportsman. He want- with Bernard Lacoste holding the reins from 1963 Foundation and was briefly non-executive president ed his only son, born in 1904, to study engineering, until 2005, when poor health forced him to hand over of the company before its takeover by Maus Frères but René preferred to play tennis. He persuaded management to his younger brother Michel, until late last year. “Bernard invented a management his father to allow him to go professional, and in then in charge of the company’s legal and financial style, a way of treating a brand, of internationaliza- the Twenties went on to win the French Open three business. Michel Lacoste remained president of the tion. He was ahead of the times.”

and Germany. cial partner of the Costume visitors a year. I Lacoste signs a four-year Designers Guild Awards. I Lacoste LAB products — a THROUGH THE YEARS... global license with GL Bijoux I A 4,300-square-foot flagship bicycle, football and rugby {Continued from page 4} Group to develop fashion opens on Champs-Élysées. balls, a boomerang, a moto Andy Roddick, 2007 Elegance men’s scent bows. jewelry. I A flagship opens in helmet, a surfboard and two 2005. I Felipe Oliveira Baptista be- Hamburg. skis — sell exclusively at 2008 Christophe Chenut comes Lacoste creative director. I Lacoste LAB, which revives Colette in Paris. is named ceo, with Michel the brand’s tradition of in- Lacoste remaining president. 2011 Marchon eyewear is li- novation and builds a bridge 2012 Swiss retail group Maus I Lacoste becomes official censed for optical and sun- between its heritage and its Frères SA acquires 100 per- sponsor and outfitter of um- glasses. future, is introduced. cent of Lacoste SA, valuing the pires and “ball kids” of the I Alexa Chung becomes the I In New York, a flagship maker at 1 billion euros ($1.3 Australian Open. new face for Lacoste’s latest fe- opens on Fifth Avenue, as well billion). male fragrance, Joy of Pink. as a boutique in SoHo. I American tennis player John 2009 Lacoste begins its sup- I Unconventional Chic ad cam- I American designer Jonathan Isner becomes brand ambassa- port of the Save Your Logo paign begins. Adler teams with Lacoste on a dor for four years. campaign to preserve biodi- I Lacoste L!VE launches. limited collection of polo shirts. I Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 versity on the planet and safe- I Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 col- I At the end of 2011, besides Rouge scent is added to the guard crocodiles. lection of men’s fragrances its institutional Web site, the men’s fragrance collection. I Hayden Christensen is the RON ANGLE PHOTO BY launches. 36 countries in which the face for Challenge men’s scent. launches. I Lacoste ambassador Yani brand is present all have Web 2013 José Luis Duran is I José Luis Duran is named I Lacoste’s e-shop in France Tseng, 22, tops the Women’s sites. The institutional site is named ceo of Lacoste SA, suc- head of Devanlay. is created by Lacoste, World Golf Rankings, the translated into 11 languages. ceeding Christophe Chenut. Devanlay and Pentland. By youngest player to win four In 2011, it has more than 1.5 I The brand marks its 80th 2010 The men’s fragrance August, the e-commerce site major titles. million visitors monthly, which anniversary. Lacoste Essential Sport becomes available in the U.K. I Lacoste becomes the offi- represents 16 million unique SOURCES: LACOSTE AND WWD ARCHIVES congratulates Lacoste® on the past 80 years. 8 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 9, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDMILESTONES The 1973 ad that reads, “Female crocodiles are pretty.” Multimedia Player The brand reaches existing and new targets with strategies from print to digital. By Paula Szmydke

LACOSTE SURELY speaks digital, the coming outdated in the Seventies and moving away from traditional prod- language of the 21st-century customer. Eighties just before being picked up by uct advertising to providing a general “[Digital marketing] provides new the streets and hip-hop culture again mood and a catchy tag line. opportunities to reach out to a new au- in the Nineties. The current “Unconventional dience in a much faster, targeted and “Finally, in the 2000s, it turned into Chic” campaign, which launched in quantifiable way than other forms of a fashion brand with the arrival of 2011 with model Anja Rubik sport- media,” said Didier Calon, communi- Christophe Lemaire,” Prat said. ing a white polo shirt over a glittery cation director of Lacoste SA. black evening gown, among others, has He noted Lacoste is “on the proved “a little controversial,” admit- verge” of reaching 11 million fans on ted Calon. According to Prat, it is remi- Facebook, while the Web sites attract niscent “of the old top-model era of the more than 35 million visitors a year. Nineties” and was “not realistic.” “We also count millions of video “Yes, this image was strange, but views through our various social-me- we tested the campaign in France, the dia networks,” Calon added, noting its U.S. and China, and the results were tional chic, which is probably a rein- “Polo of the Future” video has been very good,” said Calon. “You need to terpretation of the rupture of men seen more than 47 million times since take risks. The campaign was launched playing in shirts,” he said. last December. at a time when the market was difficult Jarry cited the “Un peu d’air sur This fun clip was to mark Lacoste’s and the competition tough, so we de- terre” campaign (“A bit of air on 80 years and provide a futuristic vision cided to show our differences — we Earth”) as a milestone in Lacoste’s ad- of the brand’s most iconic product, are not the only brand that is casual vertising strategy. Thought up by BETC the L.12.12 polo shirt, which — as the and chic, but we were the first one.” Luxe, it ran from 2006 to 2011 and video suggests — could one day change For its ads, Lacoste has employed featured models walking through the color and style with a touch of the photographers as diverse as Terry air. “It was an amazing combination hand. Viewers were then invited to de- Richardson, Ellen von Unwerth, David of energy and timelessness. It made sign their own version of the polo shirt Sims and Phil Poynter. everyone rediscover Lacoste with a through an interactive tool. Marc-Antoine Jarry, the executive refreshed perspective and was very Lacoste’s print campaigns, mean- strategic director at Ogilvy who helped inspiring from the historical point of while, reflect its style evolution. It was Louis Vuitton and Coca-Cola Zero find view of advertising.” René Lacoste who posed for pictures their voice through images, said Lacoste According to Kantar Media, Lacoste when the crocodile first appeared on a “doesn’t need brand construction any SA has increased its ad spending in piece of clothing in 1926. The brand’s The current “Unconventional Chic” campaign. more, it needs to be nourished.” the U.S. alone from $5.5 million in ambassadors since have included “It’s one of the most amazing 2009, to $6.9 million in 2010 and $8.5 tennis champions Arthur Ashe, Mats Since the crocodile has tradition- brands in the world, it has a lot of million in 2011. Calon would not reveal Wilander and Andy Roddick, further ally been a man’s pet, a stronger focus power. But when you go to the Web its global ad expenses, but said the underscoring Lacoste’s sporty image. on women also became more apparent site, you don’t even see a section that budget jumped by 10 percent between Elisabeth Prat, creative head of — already briefly expressed in the 1973 is about the spirit of unconventional 2011 and 2012. fashion at Peclers Paris, the trend and “Les crocodiles sont belles” advertise- chic, so you don’t really know what “It shows their ambitions,” con- consulting agency, credits the brand ment (which translates into “Female to do with it. Unless you are familiar cluded Jarry. “Becoming a global with coming a long way, evolving from crocodiles are pretty”). The campaign with the history of Lacoste, you don’t fashion house needs support and a “BCBG brand” in the Sixties to be- heralded a shift in marketing strategy, understand why they claim unconven- increased investment.”

Eau de Lacoste women’s fragrance. in early 2011 starting with a trio of scents, was inspired by Fragrance Follows Fashion Lacoste’s iconic polo shirt — from its name to the textile LACOSTE MADE its first vol- Fragrance is the brand’s which together kicked off the crocodile emblem on the bot- ley into fragrances in 1968, second-largest license, behind label’s high-end segment. A tle. Its video spot showing an and the brand’s been upping textiles, according to Lacoste. year later, the brand launched origamist’s hands transform- its game ever since. In a 2005 WWD story, the men’s scent Lacoste Style ing a shirt into the scent ﬂacon While executives at Procter Hartwig Langer, P&G Prestige in Play and Touch of Pink is the second-most-watched ad & Gamble, which has held Products’ global president for women, meant to reﬂect on YouTube in France, with the license since 2001, would at the time, recalled the ac- Lacoste’s sports heritage. And more than 2 million viewers, not discuss numbers, indus- quisition took place because Lacoste Essential — marking according to P&G. try sources estimate Lacoste “we felt we needed a French the introduction of a “free- It’s Lacoste’s best-selling scents generate 230 million brand. Lacoste, the crocodile dom” category, about relax- fragrance line, and at launch euros, or $310.9 million at cur- and the icon became hip and ation — hit shelves in 2005. L.12.12 was among the top-10 rent exchange, in wholesale cool again. And that was the Pour Femme remains a men’s scents in such markets as revenues annually. right time. We jumped it be- top-three seller in Russia and the U.K., Germany and France. “The Lacoste fragrance fore the crest really started has important market share in Starting in early January, business has been growing rolling again.” Germany. Touch of Pink boasts a the Lacoste brand’s then-10.7 pretty steadily,” said Carla The sportswear firm’s solid following in the U.K., while million Facebook fans could Liuni, vice president of fash- first fragrance licensee was Essential has a large fan base in Pink, features models wearing preview a video of actress Amy ion brands for P&G Prestige. Jean Patou, privately held the U.S. Lacoste fragrances are the brand’s sports gear. Adams discussing the new Eau “[It] continues to be a key pri- by the Jean de Mouy family. sold in more than 95 countries Since the Style in Play de Lacoste women’s fragrance, ority for us…and has quite a Among fragrances launched altogether, said Liuni. scent was about capturing the sister to L.12.12 for which unique place in our portfolio.” under the partnership was Like the Lacoste fashion the type of adrenaline rush she’s the ambassador. It gleaned Eau de Sport in two versions, business, the brand’s fragrance athletes experience before inspiration from the feeling on with each bearing the Jean activity is believed to be skewed competition, its 20-second TV skin of pure white cotton fab- Patou and Lacoste names, in toward the men’s category. spot at launch featured break- ric, like that used for Lacoste the late Sixties. There was Lacoste’s iconic crocodile dancer Samy Sainte Barbe clothes. The scent’s cap has the also Lacoste Original in the has been prevalent on its fra- doing a handstand prior to same petit piqué texture, and Eighties, along with Land co- grance packaging. For Booster, leaving his dressing room and there is a crocodile logo. logne, Booster and Lacoste for for instance, the trademark appearing before a crowd. Lacoste’s Facebook fans Women in the Nineties. reptile was wrapped around However, it’s Lacoste’s most could also sign up for a “VIP P&G and Lacoste have in- the scent’s box so retailers recent fragrance offerings that sample” of Eau de Lacoste. troduced numerous scents, could position the packages to forge the closest links with And it served an ace: Liuni as well. There was Lacoste create a parade of crocodiles. the label’s apparel. The Eau said the batch of 43,000 was Pour Homme in 2002, then Advertising for some Lacoste de Lacoste L.12.12 men’s fran- out of stock in four days. Eau de Lacoste L.12.12 for men. Lacoste Pour Femme in 2003, fragrances, such as Touch of chise, which was introduced — JENNIFER WEIL Pentland congratulates Lacoste on 80 years of style and heritage. 10 WWD WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 9, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDMILESTONES Rockin’ the Croc Lacoste props and protects its storied symbol in many ways. By Norma Quinto

LACOSTE’S CROCODILE is not crocodile protection to the next into more new territories, merely a logo on a polo shirt. level with its Save Your Logo bringing another dimension Once used to describe a campaign, actively supporting to the brand by collaborating player’s style on the tennis projects to protect certain spe- with other designers on vari- court, it has transcended into a cies of crocodiles, alligators, ous projects. global brand and a focal point caimans and gavials now in “The idea of inventing for philanthropic endeavors. danger of extinction. The com- again brought us to look for It is also a precious piece pany is also a sponsor of the the best experts in each cat- of intellectual property, which World Crocodile Conference, egory,” explained Christophe Lacoste guards with the tenac- which takes place this year in Pillet, design director. “In ity of the reptile itself. Lacoste Sri Lanka, May 20 to 23. working on the Lacoste con- dedicates an entire team to the Charity is a significant part cept car, we chose Citroën global protection of its trade- of René Lacoste’s legacy. The because they have the materi- marks, and works with police René Lacoste Foundation pro- als, engineers and the latest and customs authorities in dis- vides opportunities for young technology. When we decided mantling international counter- people around the world to find to make surfboards, we went feit activity in many countries. new paths through sport. This to the best surf-equipment “Brazil, China and India includes Andy Roddick’s Youth manufacturer in Europe. The are the top three countries Tennis Program in the U.S., the goal was to raise the value of where we are facing the most Open Play soccer program in the brand by returning to the serious counterfeit issues. Brazil and the “A Chacun Son label’s innovative roots. We An ad for the Save Your Logo campaign. Two million fake Lacoste Everest” (“Each has his own wanted to play with design products were seized in India Everest”) mountain-climbing ideas without thinking about “Today, you see Rihanna “René Lacoste was an in- in 2011,” said Rajesh Jain, di- program for young cancer pa- market constraints.” and Diane Kruger wearing ventor, designer and an inspi- rector and chief executive of- tients. Ongoing global initia- “In the Sixties, Steve Lacoste. The brand speaks to rational guy, and many of his ficer of Lacoste India. Lacoste tives include building a gym- McQueen and Jackie Kennedy a very broad audience. Some ideas are still around,” Singh has joined L’Oréal and Calvin nasium at a Russian orphanage were wearing Lacoste, not be- love it for the heritage and said. “Eighty years later, it is a Klein in this fight. and a skateboarding park for cause a p.r. guy gave it to them, some for the sportswear.” $4 billion business [worldwide While the brand name, children in Afghanistan. but because it was part of Germany is Lacoste’s larg- at retail] that has inspired logo and products are under Lacoste has its famous their lifestyle,” said Lacoste’s est European market, with 650 many [people], and that, to me, a watchful eye, Lacoste took crocodile striding confidently German ceo, Sanjiv Singh. accounts and about 1,000 doors. is an incredible journey.”

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