Fashion and Contemporary Arts
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TRACK: FASHION STYLING IED FIRENZE DESCRIPTION OF INDIVIDUAL COURSE Course Title Fashion and Contemporary Arts Semester Spring Teaching Method Theory Lessons Total Hours Total Hours Theoretical Theory Lessons 36 Lab – project 3 workshop (1 hour = 60 minutes) (1 hour = 60 minutes) Practical workshop Credits 3 The goal of this course is to provide students with the necessary techniques to analyze fashion as a cultural phenomenon from an interdisciplinary point of view, as a cultural phenomenon, using the appropriate vocabulary and to enable them to understand the social condition of the wearers. Ideally, at the conclusion of the course they will have learned to consider of a work of art through the use of new critical tools; and they will achieve a global understanding of the Western fashion historic timeline, protagonists, revolutions, changes. We’ll focus on Italian fashion and a series of characteristics that could Learning be summarized as the International, European, and Italian style. Then the class continues studying the language and system Objectives of fashion. Specific designers are studied and presented in class during Professor’s lectures, student’s assignments, and oral presentations. During each term a selection among the designers is discussed and presented during the classes. In this course the relationship between fashion and media is stressed. Media have tremendously impacted the fashion history, and they are still shaping the industry, that’s why students by the end of the course need to be aware of who are the new protagonists that are writing now the fashion history of the future. The course explores the historical development of contemporary fashion in order to identify trends in the fashion industry and the communication process. Changing trends and styles are covered from the historical, cultural, social and economic standpoint to provide students with the necessary tools to understand contemporary fashion as well as highlight the systems and major trends and developments. The course is a journey through fashion as a mirror of Western society and as a reflection of the events that have changed the fashion system and its history, from the second half of the 20th Century up to the most recent global fashion. At this advanced level the course focuses on deepening the critical tools to be able to decode and interpreting the silent language of fashion as an interdisciplinary subject, from a critical perspective, according to many factors related to: historic, social, economic, artistic, cultural context. After a brief resume about the topics analyzed in the previous section (History of Fashion Modern 1); the course moves on through the history ending with the Contents of most recent time. The course will follow both a chronological and thematic approach in decoding contemporary styles. The the course course follows an interdisciplinary approach; fashion styles are decoded in relation to art history, society, anthropology, economy, gender studies, media studies, in a National and International context. Fashion and its interactions with culture, subculture, gender, and communication are emphasized. The course follows both a chronologic and thematic approach, as well as an experiential learning method, taking participant students into on-site itineraries and activities to enhance their educational experience based on first- hand knowledge. Florence, its rich culture, and heritage are used as the main classroom and sourse for students’ researches and learning activities. By the end of the term participants have to achieve a strong theoretical basis based on the studying of reliable academic sources, combined together with the knowledge of practical aspects related to the fashion making and behind the scenes. The main strong features of the course are: visits to museums, fashion archives and fashion sites, live demonstrations and talks at the artisans’ workshops, small and medium firms, combined with practical laboratory. The teaching method consists of series of classroom lectures devoted to explaining the subjects in question in detail, using Teaching audiovisual supports and moments when the lecturers interact with the students, who are stimulated to speak up and contribute to the process of transmitting and imparting the course contents. Students may be requested to undertake Method individual and group research projects or other development on one or more course contents, to be presented and discussed during their examinations. Course WEEK 1 - Lecture & Class Discussion: program Introduction to the course. Lecture & Class Discussion: Introduction to the course subjects. Final Project brainstorming and students open questions. Costumes and fashion. Comparing and contrasting. The fashion glossary. The Fashion Studies Reading Assignment: Chapter 1: 1900-1913 Undulations and Exotica WEEK 2 Lecture & Class Discussion: - The beginning of 20th century and its Revolutions - Case Study: The House of Chanel, from the origin to today Reading assignment: Chapter 2 La Garçonne and the New Simplicity WEEK 3 Thursday March 5th 3:20PM– 6:20PM Lecture & Class Discussion: - From Costumes to Fashion - The Orientalism - The 1910 - Fashion icons and trendsetters through the times: the Eurocentric fashion system. - From tailors to fashion designers. - The “democratization” of fashion as a reflection of social, economic, and cultural changes - Case Study: Paul Poiret and Mariano Fortuny Assignment: Chapter 3 Recession and Escapism WEEK 4 Lecture & Class Discussion: - The roaring Twenties - The New Simplicity - Case Study: Madeleine Vionnet, Elsa Schiapparelli and art in Fashion, Prada and The Great Gatsby: product placement. Assignment: Chapter 4 Rationed Fashion and Home-Made Style WEEK 5 Lecture & Class Discussion: - Recession and Escapism - The 1930s and 1940s - Fashion Beyond the Crisis: Autarky, Austerity, Autonomy - Case Study: Gucci. Tom Ford, Frida Giannini, Alessandro Michele Lecture & Class Discussion: Fashion as an art form. The pro and con sides. Video Assignment: Valerie Steel. Is Fashion art? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weB-SQ-XP-c&spfreload=10 Chapter 5, 1946-1956 Femininity and Conformity WEEK 6 Visit: - The Costume Gallery and the Silver Museum at Pitti Palace - Artisan’s laboratory Chapter 6, 1957-1967 Affluence and Teenage Challenge Group Assignment: Oral/Visual Presentation The Oscar night. A critical analysis of fashion trends in and out the red carpet. Do you think there are outfits that will eventually become iconic? Analyze at least one movie’s costumes and explain (from the Oscar or from this season) which are going to set a trend in fashion or that have been inspired by fashion designs. WEEK 7 MidTerm Exam Christian Dior interpreted by the others: Movie: Dior and I Gianfranco Ferrè https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIMDCFHlOmk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GeJVSIVjoEk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSuuWtIajEM John Galliano https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNjXmIwIm8k https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHWLWI_vQ1Q&spfreload=10 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUKGqhlRXH0&spfreload=10 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8s4Pt8qZm6E Raf Simons https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6l1aoVyLCg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCkpCPZ59l8 Maria Grazia Chiuri https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NsVrBqIGMrc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCkpCPZ59l8 https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3T5fmgL4Kvk3kG1kF6JFeA Chapter 7, 1968-1975 Eclecticism and Ecology WEEK 8 Lecture & Class Discussion: - The 1950s Visit: Costume and Fashion Museum at Pitti Palace - The New Look - The Sala Bianca e the Birth of Italian Fashion - Case Study: Balenciaga, Dior, Valentino Chapter 8, 1976-1988 Sedition and Consumerism Group Project: Fashion and movies from Sorelle Fontana to Giorgio Armani WEEK 9 Lecture & Class Discussion: - Fashion and Cinema - Case Study: Yves Saint Laurent, Hubert de Givenchy and Riccardo Tisci Mary Quant and the young fashion Movie M2M: Who are you, Polly Magoo? By William Klein, 1966 Documentary: Fashion on Film Reading assignment: Chapter 9, 1989-1999 Fashion Goes Global WEEK 10 Lecture & Class Discussion: - Fashion and Music - The Teenage Challange - Case Study: The Beatles vs. The Rolling Stones, Michael Jackson, David Bowie vs. Renato Zero, Madonna vs. Raffaella Carrà, Lady Gaga vs. Katy Perry, Beyonce vs. Miley Cyrus Video online: Gaga by Gaultier Documentary: Valentino The Last Emperor Reading assignment: Chapter 10, Planet Fashion WEEK 11 and 12 Lecture & Class Discussion: - The 1960s and 1970s Eclecticism, ecology, - Case Study: the musical Hair (1979), Missoni, Fiorucci, Moschino, Versace Celebrities and fashion Fashion and controversial advertisements. The Antwerp Six Yohji Yamamoto - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSJsqYH-hK4 Documentary M2M: Fashion Pack, Antifashion Documentary M2M: Fashion in the 1990’s Movie: The First Monday on May Documentary McQueen – Genius of Fashion Lecture & Class Discussion: Fashion and Social Media. Conclusions Documentary M2M: Fashion Pack, Go Global Review for the final exam WEEK 13 FINAL EXAM – Visual & Oral Presentation V. Mendes, A. De La Haye, Fashion Since 1900, Thames and Hudson, World of Art, London, 2010 E. Ewing Revised by A. Macrell, History of 20th Centurt Fashion, Batsford, London, 2005 Strongly Recommended Books Bonnie English, A Cultural History of Fashion in the 20th and 21st Centuries, Bloomsbury, London, 2013 Steele, Valerie, A Queer History of Fashion: From the Closet to the Catwalk, Yale Univ. Press, 2013 Marnie Fogg, Why You Can Go Out Dressed Like That,