Battersea Matters the newsletter of the Society SUMMER 2014

Katherine Low Settlement: still going strong at 90

iatherine Low Settlement Clockwise from top left Unveiling the icelebrated its 90th Battersea Society’s blue plaque: ibirthday on Saturday 17 (l to r) John Wates, president of K KLS; Margaret Robson, chair of May with a tremendous party in its trustees; Aaron Barbour, director of building in Battersea High Street, KLS; Cllr Angela Graham, Mayor of overflowing into the street outside. ; the Mayor’s consort; The Battersea Society donated a Canon Simon Butler, KLS trustee and vicar of St Mary’s Battersea blue plaque, unveiled by Mayor Cllr Angela Graham. Hundreds of local Leila Williams, local resident and people, including Jane Ellison MP member of Jehovah Jireh Church (who use one of KLS’s rooms) and BS chair Sara Milne, enjoyed the sunshine and the giant birthday cake Playing giant chess in Orville Road baked by local hands. Katherine Low Settlement’s director Aaron Barbour. ‘Service Fond memories users, colleagues past and There were dance workshops, face present, friends and neighbours painting, choirs, reggae bands and all joining to celebrate 90 years of reminiscences from people with our work in Battersea. Here’s to fond memories of the Settlement. another 90 years.’ Ninety red balloons were released the Katherine Low Settlement has furthest reaching land at Sevenoaks been in Battersea since 1927, in Kent, 31 miles away. working to tackle poverty and ‘Everyone came along,’ said build stronger communities. From the editor strengthening the social glue that has suffered from its isolated position bonds the differing communities of on West Hill, and Lavender Hill will our area together. It’s so important certainly be an improvement in that Battersea is that different cultures, genders and regard, but its space will be sadly changing – we age groups are able to live together reduced. But Battersea Arts centre all know that. and to play both together and apart. (p11) is just down the road and But in this issue Back in 1903, a bath and electric attracts a wide audience. The current we celebrate light were considered luxurious for show, Wot? No fish! is a delight, by history and the working class, so families moving the way. continuity, into the Latchmere and similar estates The Northcote Road fete (p3) was for Battersea (p15) must have felt pleased and a huge success and a very happy day. also has a proud. Preserving these areas is an The Battersea Society stall, staffed proud history of radicalism and social important role for our hawk-eyed generously by volunteer members, action. planning committee (p4). sold locally picked elderflower cordial The Katherine Low Settlement and mugs specially designed by our and Providence House have Bitter struggle own Suzanne Perkins. Don’t miss a respectively enjoyed 90th and 50th Members who remember the bitter chance to stock up – the mugs will be birthdays. Caius House is even older struggle to retain the Wandsworth available from my phone or email until but combines old and new with a Museum in the town centre may 30 July. modern home underneath – how smile wryly – or grind their teeth – at Jenny Sheridan SW11! – luxury apartments. All three the news that it is likely to move into [email protected] organisations have a strong role in Battersea Library (p14). The museum 020 7350 2749

Man on the Battersea Bus been in the sixteenth century. Mike Roden reflects on raffles, The sun blazed down and a few restaurants and the romance of travel people fainted – reminiscent of trooping the colour, perhaps. Anyway the four of us all stayed upright, and Some of you may have missed the it was great fun – scarcely marred recent story about the discovery of by the frequent presence of a police an unexploded wartime bomb in a I have reviewed no less than four helicopter overhead, which even had basement excavation on Battersea apparently thriving establishments Cleopatra (magnificently played by Church Road. It’s a sobering reminder which are now no more: The Fish Eve Best) rolling her eyes and waving that war, now not even a memory for Place, by the river, Mantoos, on a fist skywards at times. If you think most of us – was once a very real Battersea Bridge Road, Battersea you have the stamina you can buy presence here. And most bombs Spice on York Road, and Miyajima, a standing tickets on the day – just £5 which fell on Battersea did not remain Japanese restaurant on Lavender Hill. which is astonishing value. unexploded. I have been dissuaded by concerned The annual summer party will diners against sharpening my quill A world outside probably have come and gone by pen and reviewing the evergreen As I write this our visitors are reaching the time you read this, and I’m sure L’AntiPasto on Battersea Park Road. the end of their holiday. We haven’t a good time was had by all. I’ll have But if you have an unfavourite place been able to show them the kind been there, of course, I’d hate to miss you’d like me to hex, then get in touch. of magnificent scenery we saw in the yearly raffle. I know it’s the taking Rates very reasonable. northern California, particularly the part, not the winning that matters Yosemite Valley but we’ve driven (and it’s all in a good cause) but each Globe nearly 600 miles round England and time a ticket is pulled out, a sigh of We visited the Globe Theatre Wales to some of the places that disappointment ripples round the recently on a very warm and sunny mean something to us – Salisbury eager watchers, and the smiles that Sunday afternoon to see Anthony Cathedral, Stonehenge, the greet the winner pushing their way and Cleopatra. On a previous Cotswolds, and Snowdonia. We’ve through the crowd are perhaps not visit we had seats (albeit very discussed badgers with a Shropshire as sincere as they might be. I did win uncomfortable ones). This time we farmer, sampled the pleasures of a prize once – a meal for two at Thai were with our visiting friends from a Toby Carvery in Telford, and said on the River. Since that eaterie is now California who wanted to test the hello to the statue of being turned into flats, I assume that groundling experience. Standing in in Manchester – and much more. prize will not have been available this that wooden O so close to the stage, Of course all of you know this, but year. I did get a sense that it was like this in sometimes it’s useful to be reminded On a similar topic, I’ve started to Shakespeare’s day, although I’m glad that there is a world outside . think that restaurant reviews in this that the people pressed around were See you next time. And – journal must be cursed. With friends more fragrant than they would have remember – mind how you go. 2 Katherine Low: will we ever know the true story? Sean Creighton digs into the limited archives and uncovers her links with slavery

Katherine Low Settlement in The Low household had their own Settlement. She was its treasurer Battersea High Street has recently negro slave servants, one of whom, from about 1908 until her death in celebrated its 90th birthday. But who Tom Milredge, stayed with his master 1923 at the age of 67. was Katherine Low? According to post-freedom until his death, his In her last few years Katie lived local legend, she was a local social widow coming to England to cook at 106 Park St, Grosvenor Square. philanthropist and suffragette. I am for William. The Lows were arrested Her half-sister Amy had died there sorry to say she had no Battersea in the Civil War for gunrunning from in January 1917 and Katie acted as connections and there is no known Britain for the Confederacy. her executor. She is buried in the evidence that she was a suffragette. After the end of the war Andrew churchyard of St. Mary the Virgin in So why, you may wonder, was a social settled in England in Leamington Spa, East Haddon in Northamptonshire welfare initiative named after her travelling annually to Savannah on next to the Hall where her other half- established in Battersea? business. Katie and her sisters were sister Hattie had lived, having married The answer is that it followed educated in Britain. into the family of the owners, the her role in the United Girls School Guthries, who had been involved in Mission which supported Peckham Legacy slave ownership in the British West Settlement. For reasons yet Andrew Low died in June 1886, Indies. undiscovered, her friends decided to leaving £618,000 from which there Described as ‘a woman of set up and name a new Settlement were legacies for each daughter, with independent means’, Katie was in house and chose Battersea over the bulk of the estate going to William. fact a millionairess worth around Camberwell. In November 1886 Katie and £4.5million in today’s money. Her Born in America in 1855, Katherine her sisters went to the States to wealth was inherited from her father, (always known as Katie) was the attend William’s wedding to Juliette from William, and from others like daughter of Andrew Low II, a wealthy Gordon, known as Daisy. Back in her second cousin Mary Catherine Savannah-based Scots cotton trader England, William and Daisy settled Philips, whose own wealth may with interests at the other end of in Leamington Spa, re-modelling have been inherited through family the slave-produced supply chain their property to resemble a southern involvement in the slavery business. in Liverpool feeding the insatiable plantation house. William became a Katie left a small bequest of just under appetite of the Lancashire mills. He playboy friend of the future Edward £13,000 in today’s money to Peckham had three children with his first wife, VII. After William’s death Daisy Settlement – hardly generous. of whom Amy and Hattie survived into returned to the United States in 1918, Katherine Low’s name is well adulthood. where her claim to fame is that she known in Battersea but the woman His second wife Mary Cowper initiated the Girl Scouts of the USA. herself, her beliefs and her activities Stiles was the daughter of a slave As there is unfortunately no remain very much a mystery. As there plantation owner. Andrew and Mary substantial surviving archive, we are no surviving papers, research to Low had three daughters: Katie, know very little about Katie’s role explore her life will be a difficult task. Jessie and Mary and a son, William. in the Mission and the Peckham www.seancreighton.com

Coming up this autumn • 31 July and 28 August, 3 – 5pm Exhibition on the history of the gas- holders. Engineers House, Prince of Wales Drive. www.batterseagasholders.com • 1 – 15 September: Battersea Literary Festival • 7 September: Battersea Dogs’ and Cats’ Home dog show, Battersea Park (not to be missed by any dog-lover or observer of human nature) • 20 – 21 September: London Open House weekend. Katherine Low Settlement, Battersea Arts Centre and the Pump House Gallery will be open The Battersea Society stall at the Northcote Road fete on 6 July: Carol Rahn and Steph Tickner selling local produce • 20 September: St Mary’s Church fair 3 Planning Matters: it’s not all about Monica Tross outlines the importance of conservation areas and how the Society’s planning committee works to protect them

There are no less than twelve guidelines or to conservation areas in Battersea modify their stated and each is important, to those policy – for example who enjoy living In them and for the in relation to front preservation of the character and rooflights. In these history of our borough. They contain cases we seek some older and grander buildings some consistency but they were in the main built to in what is allowed, meet the need for housing for the for example no many artisans and clerical workers more than two moving into the area to work in the conservation grade factories, light industries and the front rooflights, railways which grew in Battersea in only a small grating the late nineteenth and early twentieth over a basement century. Then, as now, Battersea was lightwell rather than also home to commuters working in an open lightwell. shops and offices in the West End There are cases and the City. when we really can’t understand why an application Higher price has been allowed and others where This richness in attractive properties something we hadn’t objected to has brought its own problems for is refused. And happily there are those of us lucky enough to be living increasingly other cases where an here. When a neighbour wants to objectionable application is refused sell they often decide to apply for an – 19 Henning Street, 2014/464 is a extension first because they are told recent example – or where the plan that they can ask a higher price with is modified to be more acceptable planning permission for enlargement. before then being approved. They may have no intention of doing the work and once they have sold we Lengthy lists Conservation areas: the Park Town Estate: photo Reading Tom, and Battersea Square have to review another application Do you live in a conservation area? If because the new owner has different so, could you help? By telling us what have your email address so we can ideas. you find unacceptable, by letting us ask your opinion about occasional Other people buy a property with applications where we can’t decide the intention of adding a basement, a CONSERVATION AREAS IN on the impact – or by alerting us to loft extension, a rear or side extension Battersea worrying applications. We are not or various combinations of these. infallible and we can miss things in Battersea Park Some even buy the house next door the increasingly lengthy weekly lists with the aim of combining them into Battersea Square of applications. one much grander house .so they can really increase the size of their Clapham Common LATE NEWS property. Clapham Junction Covent Garden Market planning Members of the planning proposals can be checked out committee try to look at the detail Latchmere Estate at 2014/2810 with comments by of every application from within a Park Town Estate 1 August. Concerns are being conservation area. Sifting through the expressed by English Heritage about list and trying to decide whether or not Shaftesbury Park Estate the height of the residential building the proposed work is objectionable is earlier planned to be 150m and St John’s Hill Grove a time consuming task. We are helped now increased to 180m. We plan to by the generally good conservation Three Sisters comment on this and other aspects area appraisals and management of the plans before the closing date. strategies prepared by Wandsworth Town Hall Road Council’s conservation officers and Please contact us at Planning@ by the advice of planning officers Wandsworth Common batterseasociety.org.uk We like to on applications. We are hindered by Westbridge Road hear from you about conservation the fact that pragmatism has led the areas and any other planning and Council to allow breaches of their transport concerns you may have.

4 Providence House celebrates 50 years in Battersea

left A life-like cake with PH minibus to boot, made by volunteer Ellie Greenham is being cut by singer Noel Mckoy who first came to Providence House as a boy around 1970. below, clockwise Three youth club members pose in a frame. DJ Tony Francis helps compère some of the evening concert. Noel McKoy is in the background. Esther Clevely, PH Senior Youth Worker, leads the singing during the anniversary service with a combined youth and volunteers group.

Katherine Low Settlement (front past photographs. People were page) was not the only much-loved studying them until almost 11 at community centre celebrating an night, exchanging stories and anniversary this year. Providence experiences, re-connecting House in Falcon Road has been with the place and old friends providing a youth club for 50 years and re-living old times. Several and celebrated on 10 May with a people spoke movingly about service, party and concert. Robert how Providence House had Musgrave MBE, who has worked changed the course of their with young people at the club for lives. 35 years, says the day was a huge members of the club. It was a very success: ‘There wasn’t a time when Concert special day. the building wasn’t heaving. Over ‘Of course the building was also full ‘Youth work has been the core 500 people attended, not just from of our present young people and work of Providence House for fifty Battersea but all over England. their families. They were printing years, and will continue to be so T-shirts, making jigsaw puzzles in the as it faces the uncertain future of Re-connecting carpentry room and in the evening the re-development of the local One of the highlights was a room of there was a concert provided by past neighbourhood’.

5 The Caius to the door: an old youth club in a brand new space A new community resource is opening near the river. Jenny Sheridan hears all about it.

‘It won’t be our youth club, it will be theirs, the young people’s. It’ll be their community.’ Tameeka Smith, director of Caius House, believes passionately in children’s and young people’s creativity and in the potential of the youth club to unlock their abilities. Caius House (pronounced ‘keys’) has been working in Battersea since 1887. After six years in temporary accommodation at the Wand centre it is now returning to its original home in Holman Road, off York Road in a brand new building. The club will cater for 11 to 21-year-olds and they hope to add a lower age group later. On the ground floor a large sports hall will offer a full-size basketball court. ‘We’ll also have badminton, five-a-side football, boxing, netball, creating. Caius House has an volleyball and martial arts,’ enthuses impressive recording studio and deputy director Delrita Tester. mixing suite where they can learn ‘Schools will use it during the day. It’s about the music industry and how a fantastic resource.’ to produce their own music. There’s a gym, which local people As well as a chill-out space for Tameeka Smith, 3rd from will be able to use for sessions socialising and playing pool, there right, and club members during the day, possibly through links will be ‘what I think will be the most with health authorities. Tameeka popular space in the building’, says ‘Once a teacher, always a teacher. We and Delrita are determined that the Tameeka. The Place of Peace is a will offer a different kind of education building will be used fully all day room for meditation, quiet times or where children can have fun while as well as in the after-school hours one-to-one sessions. Tam has already learning all sorts of essential life in which youth clubs traditionally used meditation with pre-exam skills.’ operate. A-level students, who found it helpful. Caius House is one of Both Tameeka and Delrita were Wandsworth’s five large youth clubs, Low rates until recently teachers at Battersea two of which are in Battersea, the That means that schools, local Park School. As head of inclusion, other being the Devas Club community groups and individuals will Tameeka has extensive experience Caius House, like the Katherine be encouraged to make it their own. with behaviour problems. She says, Low Settlement, was started by ‘I can imagine that groups that don’t ‘When you look behind the behaviour religiously-motivated undergraduates, currently exist will form – perhaps a you often find a frightened vulnerable in this case from Caius College, young mums’ group will develop and child asking for help. We want to Cambridge. Moved by the poverty meet in our community café, which get to the root of the problem and and deprivation in Battersea, they may also help to train young people support them, and their parents. set up a settlement and youth club with disabilities to get into catering,’ Our main aim is to engage and in Holman Road in 1887. By 2008 the says Tameeka. There is a meeting inspire young people. They need to building was near-derelict and no space which will be available for express themselves creatively, but longer fit for purpose as a modern booking at low rates. education now is so exam-focused. youth centre. The trustees (many with As well as sport, dance will be The curriculum is one size fits all – a Caius College connection) decided an important part of the club’s but it doesn’t. Some kids are not A to sell the land to a developer who programme. They hope to offer all grade academically but they’re A would build flats above the purpose- kinds of dance, from hip-hop to salsa grade in something and that’s what built youth club on the two lower to line or ballroom dancing. There we want to tap into. Children who floors, thus providing an endowment could be a regular tea dance for older are disadvantaged often struggle at for the building. people, perhaps led by students from school. They need somewhere they The new Caius House will open in a dance school. can succeed. Without that there August. Tameeka plans a fun open Music is a way of life for many is a risk of anti-social or criminal day in the early autumn. She has young people, both listening and behaviour. promised to keep us posted. 6 Book review: Penelope Corfield reviews Battersea Through Time, Battersea through Time by Simon McNeill-Ritchie and Ron Elam This publication is a must-have for Equally, there’s a matching ‘shock reveals the changing face of all fans of Battersea. It contains 91 of the new’. Look at old St Mary’s Battersea old vistas of the area, juxtaposed, Church as rebuilt in 1777. It is a page by page, with the same scene charming spot, where once Turner in a recent photograph. Readers painted sunsets over the huge bend get an instant guided tour through of the Thames (p 58). our history, complete with quips Today’s counterpart is very at the historic absurdity of naming different. St Mary’s Church is towered the centre of Battersea as Clapham over by the Montevetro glass-and- however, the general prospect is Junction. The images are matched steel apartment building (2000). The remarkably the same. And the same by an incisive commentary from effect looks like visual vandalism – applies to the 1870s Shaftesbury Park Simon McNeill-Ritchie, an expert but it’s well to recall that, in between estate (p 29); the 1900s Latchmere on Battersea’s architectural history, these two views, there was a estate (p 52); and the 1960s and Ron Elam, who has devoted a prolonged period when the church Winstanley estate (p 69). The mix of lifetime to collecting historic London was juxtaposed with an unromantic continuity and ever-updating diversity postcards. great flourmill. makes Battersea an urban jumble One immediate theme is the ‘shock but simultaneously an architectural of the old’. Many of the historic views Flux historian’s delight. Look at these are fascinating, even nostalgic. A Lastly, within this tale of flux, there fascinating images to see why. picture of four small cottages on is also the ‘shock of continuity’. Not Price £14.99 Westbridge Road (formerly Bridge everything changes. Many historic Obtainable from bookshops or from Road West), dating from the time of buildings survive through time, such [email protected] Charles II, is positively startling (p. as pubs, churches, schools and 59). These dwellings survived until Battersea’s massive Town Hall, now The Battersea Society 1937, when they were the oldest the Arts Centre. But the same can buildings in the area. By contrast, apply to wider scenes. Consider Chair Sara Milne the modern counterpart view has no the aerial view of Wakehurst Road [email protected] village ‘feel’ to it at all. Instead, it’s housing, dating from the 1880s, in a rather humdrum area of low-and south Battersea (p 9). Vice-chair Sue Marshall high-rise social housing, indicating Viewed closely, many details have [email protected] Battersea’s mass housing response changed – notably the kerbside rows to population growth. of cars in the modern view. Overall, Secretary Harvey Heath [email protected]

Membership Sec Maureen Larkin A quiet cul-de-sac? [email protected]

It’s time for a re-think on noise, says Suzanne Perkins Committee Chairs

Community Harvey Heath I am always bemused when estate profitable, but I believe the scales [email protected] agents call my road ‘quiet’. Yes, it’s are tilted too far against the interests leafy, but that calls for ear-splitting of the people who just want to live, Planning Liz Walton tree-trimming. Yes, it’s a cul-de-sac, talk, think and enjoy their homes. And [email protected] and don’t we know it when the daily many of us work from home. procession of 4x4s does the circuit What would happen to house Open Spaces after school. prices if the truth were told, and [email protected] But it’s also basement-digging average decibel levels in a street were Hades, with continuous compressors, measured over say, five years, and Events Wendy Deakins drilling, skip and pumped cement had to be advertised clearly, as does [email protected] deliveries for the last ten years. the eco rating?. General enquiries I’ve changed my lifestyle, getting Might this lead to a concerted up at 6 every day to have two hours effort to re-design building methods, [email protected] to garden and work before the re-frame planning and noise Website noise kicks in. After that one needs regulations and respect a bit of hush? earphones for the radio and a quick Only then will ‘leafy’ and ‘quiet’ at batterseasociety.org.uk course in lip-reading. last reflect the truth. Registered charity no.1103560 Basement digging is obviously very Councillors, what do you say?

7 Great Bus Journeys of the World No 11 From Streatham Hill to Selfridges: Mike Roden takes a ride on the 137 bus

And so it came to pass that a few any landmark worth noting, as we the beginning – focusing on symptom months ago I travelled from Sloane halt at every bus stop to take on more relief and enhancing a patient’s Square to Telford Avenue, Streatham, passengers. quality of life to the end. on the 319 bus, and was faced with As the bus heads along Clapham Cedars Road takes us to Lavender the choice of crossing the road and Park road and people get ready to Hill and then along Queenstown doing the whole journey backwards, disembark it’s clear that the main Road. The station here was opened or forging onward by waiting five destination of most of them is in 1877 and was known as Queens minutes for the 137 to Oxford Circus, Clapham Common Station. The Great Road until 1980. Its official name passing en route through Battersea Bus Journey to Peckham on the 345 is Queenstown Road (Battersea) (an essential component of one of took me this way, and I observed then though the important last word is these epic trips). I forged. that Clapham had changed since the usually missed off official signs One of the last services to days when Battersea’s main station and timetables. I expect the Love dispense with the old Routemaster had to be named after it to gain any Battersea campaign, are working bus, the 137 has had a rather credibility. on that one! Across Battersea Park chequered history, covering a variety Will Self on his blog (www.will-self. Road and we’re near to Battersea of routes – in the 1930s running from com) recorded passing through here Park station – a grade 2 listed building Hyde Park Corner to Bromley - but it on a late night bus on his way home to opened in 1867. It was in April 1937, finally settled down to its current route Stockwell: following a mistake by a signalman in 1998. ‘…who the hell were all these that two passenger trains collided people? And what the devil were they just south of this station; ten people Mansion doing – many of them half-naked – died and seventeen were seriously Off we go up Streatham Hill, turning on Clapham High Street at 12.30am injured. It’s well worth taking a look at into Streatham Place, where we pass on a Sunday morning in January?.... the station’s restored booking hall and the Crown and Sceptre – now one where there used to be a brace of building façade (Battersea Matters of the Wetherspoons empire – which hostelries, there are now scores of Autumn 2013). was built in the 1830s. Once upon a them … pretty much a continuous time it was all fields round here, as strip of tapas bars, pizza parlours, Arts and crafts the saying goes. In the eighteenth Belgian mussel shacks and Brazilian The bus is now on the way to Chelsea century there was a nearby country steakhouses…’ Bridge, passing alongside Battersea mansion called Streatham Park. As I sit waiting for the bus to set off Park. Since I travelled to Tooting on This belonged to the Thrale brewing again, it is eleven o’clock on a chilly the 44 for Battersea Matters, the family, and Henry and Hester Thrale early spring morning, and if there was demolition of the Marco Polo Building entertained the leading literary any half-naked Bacchanalian romping (once the home of the QVC shopping and artistic characters of the day, in Clapham that day it escaped my channel) has begun. And across the including Doctor Johnson. The house attention. river, work is just beginning on the was demolished in 1863. skyscraper city which will replace As with all the rural areas Hospice the Chelsea Barracks. We reach surrounding London, it was the We’re off again, on a now almost Sloane Square and stop outside the coming of the railways which empty bus, passing Trinity Hospice. ornate frontage of Holy Trinity church. spurred development and population This was the first hospice in England, The official name by the way is The growth, and we’re passing through founded in 1891 by the banker William Church of the Holy and Undivided a range of different styles and ages Hoare to provide a home ‘for the man Trinity with Saint Jude, Upper of housing estates, private and who is neither curable nor incurable, Chelsea. (Not a lot of people know municipal, punctuated by a few small but simply dying’. Trinity still follows that!) Completed in 1890 it was built shopping centres. I struggle to find those same rules which were there in by John Dando Sedding to a striking

8 Arts and Crafts design. Apparently (I know it’s hard to believe) follows Sights to see: The Crown & Sceptre, at the time it was the widest church the line of a Roman road, the Via Streatham Hill; a Streatham restaurant; Battersea Park Station; embellishment to in London, exceeding St Paul’s Trinobantina, which linked Hampshire a choir stall in Holy Trinity Church, Sloane Cathedral by 9 inches (23 cm). I can’t with Colchester. It once had a black Street; One Hyde Park; the entrance to really do justice to the interior in this reputation as the route taken by Selfridges in Oxford Street article, but if you have time do go in prisoners on their final journey from and marvel at the interior fittings and Newgate Prison to the gallows at the stained glass. The bus moves Tyburn. By about 1729, the road had quickly on, through the impossibly become known as Oxford Street and expensive emporia which line Sloane was a popular entertainment centre Street. No prices in the windows here – bear-baiting and masquerades (if you need to ask how much then you among the main attractions. As the certainly can’t afford it). nineteenth century progressed it became known for its shops, and so Notorious it has continued, with around three At the junction by Knightsbridge hundred of them now tempting those station we come face to face with the who want to spend their money. At notorious development called One sale times, and especially at Hyde Park, blocking any view of the Christmas, you need courage greenery behind. The alleged asking to brave the crowds surging price for these luxury flats is more on the pavements. than £100m though there is scant evidence that these prices have been Tragedy paid or that anyone is actually living It was only a few weeks there, and it seems that the foreign ago that tragedy struck owners of those flats that have been when an elderly woman purchased are getting away with set off to cross Oxford paying little or no council tax to Street near Selfridges Westminster Council. Something and was knocked down is rotten in the state of Denmark by a 137 bus. She died methinks… later in St Mary’s Hospital We sail round Hyde Park corner, Paddington from head past the Hard Rock café, and the injuries. towering Hilton Hotel, then along Park Today the 137 has Lane with other expensive hotels such arrived safely here at as the Dorchester and the Grosvenor Oxford Circus. From House towards Marble Arch. This Streatham Hill to was planned by John Nash in 1827 Selfridges, it has been a to be the gateway to Buckingham journey of real contrast. Palace, but eventually ended up It’s taken me more than being stranded on this unlovely traffic hour to get here, and island. after a full morning on And so we near journey’s end and the bus, I go in search of we join the queue of slow-moving a quicker way home. buses along Oxford Street which

9 Air pollution kills Harvey Heath outlines the Battersea Society’s campaign to improve our air quality

Every year, 4,000 Londoners die average, despite the fall in the number Mayor’s office and Wandsworth prematurely from the effects of air of people who smoke. Council say that they take the issue pollution. In 2012, 113 of these were in Of course there are many causes seriously. However it has become Wandsworth. The Battersea Society of pollution, including garden bonfires clear that local action is important. is determined to change this. and inefficient central heating boilers. Local and national government As I reported in Battersea Matters However the maps recording the constantly has to face the dilemma of in December 2013, the Society, incidence of pollution indicate clearly where to put their scarce resources. together with the charity London that road transport is the biggest Our activity helps them make their Sustainability Exchange, has formed polluter. There are two solutions decisions. Last year the an air pollution group which has to this: first changing our Council found the been actively involved in taking behaviour, particularly money to undertake measurements in Battersea Park reducing car use, and rigorous air quality Road/Nine Elms Lane and in Clapham secondly making our surveys because Junction. We now need to follow up equipment less polluting. the Putney with measuring techniques that are Both solutions are Society and other more scientifically rigorous. needed. residents gained The Battersea Society’s the support of Nitrogen dioxide view is that we need to local councillors. We placed diffusion tubes (which work on a number of fronts; Without local measure nitrogen dioxide) as high as we are focusing on three: pressure this may possible on lamp posts and ‘ghost never have happened. improve the monitoring of air wipes’ (cleaned glass panels) on • We have made a case to the pollution, with the help of as many shopfronts. Two weeks later we Council that some of the community members as possible removed them and sent them to infrastructure levy (CIL) money the our planning committee will a laboratory to be analysed. This • Council receives from developers scrutinise planning applications of revealed that particulate matter, should be spent at Clapham Junction. new developments to ensure that the most dangerous type of urban An air pollution monitoring station they are ‘air quality neutral’ ie do pollution, was five times above the would study particulates in detail and not worsen air quality European Union limit and nitrogen could ascertain the major causes we are approaching the local dioxide levels were double the • of pollution. We also need a survey health authorities. European limit. The road under the to examine what businesses and bridge on Falcon Road showed We have held meetings with individuals can do to improve the particularly high levels of pollutants. Wandsworth’s director of quality of the air we all breathe. Not surprisingly, Chronic Obstructive public health and the Council’s Come and join us! Pulmonary disease (COPD) is higher environmental officers. Policy To join the air pollution group, contact in Wandsworth than the national documents issued both by the [email protected]

You couldn’t make it up! Jenny Sheridan is gobsmacked

Northcote Road. Nappy Valley. Two the world’s first sensory restaurant children’s hairdressers, several for babies. The website offers children’s clothes shops (one just ‘reeeally (sic) interesting tips to for shoes), buggies and double help your infant with the tiny taste buggies blocking the pavements bud weaning journey.’ and cafes, ‘min-pedis’ and ‘mini- So, no need to buy food – let manis’ for infant princesses, alone prepare and cook it – the childcare for ‘me-time’ or those little darling can move straight so-important corporate days at from the breast or bottle to the Wimbledon or at the polo in the Gordon Ramsay world that is its Hurlingham Club … but now it’s birthright. that ‘What is the world coming to?’ What next? Raymond Blanc’s moment: in June the Northcote toytime Manoir aux Quatre Joujous Road hosted a pop-up restaurant for toddlers? Heston Blumenthal’s … for babies. snail porridge adapted for infant Weeny Weaners billed itself as gums?

10 Do you know a local hero? Jessie Wyld describes BAC’s Our Good Neighbours project

This summer Battersea Arts Centre is gathering as many stories as possible about inspirational local people past and present – whether they are friends, family, neighbours, colleagues or legends from the past. We aim to collect as many nominations for the Our Good Neighbours project as possible by September, when a panel of local people will select 12 of the names. These will be commemorated on plaques permanently installed around our historic building. It’s a project that aims to reach out to our local community; we want to start conversations and jog our neighbours’ memories – including above A demonstration against the Battersea Society members. We threatened closure of Battersea look forward to uncovering some real Arts Centre, 1980: photo Sara Wyld left A flyer calling for nominations treasures. for Our Good Neighbours

Bee mosaic Having grown up in Battersea, I am delighted to be working on this project. My family have lived locally since the 1970s and my connection with the building goes back to when my mother Sara Wyld photographed of nominations we have discovered have fought for the rights of others the protests to save the Town Hall some wonderful stories. Elsie Young and for equality – making a radical building from demolition in 1980. is an example of an unsung hero who social or political stand in order to My father helped to restore the we believe deserves recognition. She change things for the better. mosaic bee flooring in the 1990s. I worked as an air raid warden during Our inspiration for the project even performed for the first time on World War II in the Lower Hall in the is the story of George Neighbour, Battersea Arts Centre’s Grand Hall town hall and kept a diary recording who lost his life rescuing others in stage, aged 11, as part of my primary the falling bombs, showing great the great fire at Arding & Hobbs school’s production of Bugsy Malone. bravery and strength of character. in 1909. George’s heroic deed is I am proud to be from Battersea Then there’s Ron, a local commemorated by a plaque in our and draw inspiration from our heritage resident, who came into BAC to Grand Hall. We look forward to of radical and pioneering figures who tell us about his grandfather W E installing 12 more beautiful plaques have stood up for what they believed Chamberlain who worked on the in our building designed by 12 world- in and changed things for the better. docks in Battersea and who, over the class artists. From the well-known and celebrated course of his working life, saved the To nominate your local hero, please individuals such as suffragette lives of 12 people from drowning in go to BAC.org.uk/ourgoodneighbours Emmeline Pankhurst or John Archer, the Thames. and complete an online nominations the first black mayor of a London Our Good Neighbours aims card. You can also fill in a card in borough, and John Burns the first to celebrate those who deserve person by visiting either Battersea openly working class MP, to the lesser recognition: unsung heroes who have Arts Centre or Battersea Library. known figures who have also played a stood up for what they believed in or The deadline is 5 September. significant part in shaping the fabric of shown kindness and generosity to Jessie Wyld is project manager our community. others. We are also particularly keen (heritage)for Battersea Arts Centre. During our research and collection to gather stories about people who

11 ‘When you hear our music, you just gotta dance.’ Devon Marston tells Jenny Sheridan about Sound Minds

Musician Devon Marston Springfield and the OTs describes the 1980s as encouraged me in my ‘my wilderness years.’ music. We set up Sound Released from Springfield Minds as a project and it Hospital with a diagnosis became a charity in 1993. of paranoid schizophrenia We have had funding and suffering physical side from the Big Lottery, from effects from the drugs that Wandsworth Council and kept him mentally stable, from Comic Relief. he drifted from day centre ‘Our new project is to ward and back again. called Canerows. It’s a Today he plays in a user-led project with four reggae band, writes plays strands. One is Mama and is on the management Low’s Kitchen, based at board of Sound Minds, the Katherine Low Settlement, charity that he helped to which is a drop-in where found. people can get lunch Sound Minds will be for £2, play pool, enjoy familiar to many Battersea each other’s company or Society members as the organise a picnic on the providers of the joyous common. People access it jazz that we dance to at through referral, often from the annual summer party. projects that have closed (‘When you hear our due to the cuts. music,’ says Devon, ‘you just gotta dance’). But the Training organisation is more than Then there’s our ward a band. It is a charity that visiting service. We offer an uses the arts to support accredited training course people – particularly those that enables volunteers to from black communities - visit people on the wards at with longstanding mental Devon Marston: Springfield. After patients health problems. photo Jenny Sheridan are discharged we can visit them for up to six weeks to help them re-adjust Life-changing support is key to all their activities. and get used to daily life at home. We When I met Devon in Sound Minds’ Devon heads the drama group, which also organise Have Your Say forums, offices, in the basement of the is touring his play Take Control, about which work with the mental health Battersea Mission in York Road, he recovery from mental illness, to social trust to give black service-users a told me that for many of the people work students. The focus of much way to influence decisions.’ who come to Sound Minds, it can be of the charity’s work is on reducing Sound Minds has done well for a life-changing period. Rather than the stigma around mental ill health funding to date, but – as with other ‘drifting or just hanging around, they through music and the other arts. small charities – their future is less can come here and do something secure due to changes in the way creative. Some go on to study, Occupational therapy patient services are funded. The others paint or make music and fulfil ‘Coming from a Caribbean government and the council are themselves like that.’ background, music has always been introducing personal budgets. The As well as providing the space and a major part of my life,’ says Devon. aim is to give service-users more equipment to make music, people ‘After I left Spencer Park School back control over their lives; they choose can go to Sound Minds for guitar, in the 70s I started a reggae band. how to spend the money they have drum or piano lessons. There is a We were doing really well but then I been allocated. This is good in technology music studio where they became ill. After I left Springfield my principle, says Devon, but it can make can make music using a computer CPN (community psychiatric nurse) things difficult for the organisation rather than a conventional instrument. introduced me to some black guys to forecast and plan its future. There is an art class. A unique feature in a post-prison hostel in Balham www.soundminds.co.uk of the organisation is that almost all and I started to work there and did a the staff, volunteers and tutors are course in youth and community work. mental health service users. Mutual I also worked as an OT assistant in

12 How do you spell ‘sweep’? Jeanne Rathbone celebrates her street

Lavender Sweep has been home Sweep was a sort of Clapham by The Clapham to me and my husband Dave for 46 of house of call for Society (although Dave was years. When we give our address on everyone of note… annoyed that our Battersea the phone we have to spell sweep At Lavender Sweep, with the home was included in Clapham). and add ‘as in chimney’ and explain horse-chestnut blossoms strewing I share ’s love of that it curves around in a sweep. It the drive and making it look like a lavender and it is my favourite colour. was originally laid out as a carriage tessellated pavement, all of us were I offer visitors to our house little bags drive serving four large mansions always welcome … Such intimate of lavender from our garden and with a lodge at either end. Lavender friendships are seldom possible in allotment as well as using them to Sweep was the name by which the our busy profession, and there was fight off the pestilent moths. largest house became known. It was never another Tom Taylor in my life John Betjeman’s poem London owned by Tom Taylor, a 19th century …. The atmosphere of gaiety which Sketch 1944 celebrates our editor of Punch. He was also a leading pervaded Lavender Sweep arose street in his charming way: playwright, drama critic of from his kindly, generous nature, Lavender Sweep is drowned in and a distinguished civil servant. which insisted that everyone could Wandsworth, have a good time …. I have already Drowned in jessamine up to the Ellen Terry said that the Taylor’s home was one neck... According to the great actress Ellen of the most softening and cultural Sun, shine bright on the Terry, who was one of the many influences of my early life … his house blossoming trellises visitors to the house, ‘to us he was was a kind of mecca for pilgrims June and lavender bring me hope. more than this, he was an institution‘. from America and from all parts of the In Terry’s autobiography, The Story of world ….. Yet all the time occupied a Like many other streets in the area my Life, she writes, ‘It clearly became position in the Home Office and often I could name-drop actors and the home from home for people from walked from Whitehall to Lavender comedians who have lived here all the walks of literary, artistic and Sweep when his day’s work was done but I won’t – except to mention the theatrical life that Taylor was part of’. …. lavender is still associated in my publicity-shy News of the World Among Taylor’s friends were mind with everything that is lovely ex-editor Rebekah Brooks who was Dickens, Thackeray, and refined. My mother nearly always then married to Ross Kemp and had and , who took several wore the colour and the Taylors lived bodyguards on 24 hour watch. photographs of the house. Taylor at Lavender Sweep.This may not be I do like our street, which is so died there in I880, after which the an excellent reason for my feelings handy for the shops and Clapham developers moved in, demolished the on the subject, but it is reason good Junction station and so close to house and created the street of the enough.’ Clapham Common. It would be nice same name. The fanlight from Tom Taylor’s to hear from other members writing Ellen Terry’s recollections of house has been preserved and about their street. Lavender Sweep are of a genial transferred to 84 Lavender Sweep home and she was evidently very opposite our house. I was delighted to fond of Taylor. She wrote, ‘Lavender discover this fact from The Buildings

The book is safe in Battersea

Lorinda Freint announces the return of the Literary Festival Laura Bates Everyday Sexism Project The popular Battersea Literature at this year’s festival to talk about Festival is back. It will run from 1 – 15 the future of the book, and is likely the festival will end with the ever September this year. to attract a lot of interest. Other popular Literary Pub Quiz where Previously known as the SW11 writers already booked include Matt people can show off their literary Literary Festival, it has been revived Haig, David Mitchell (Cloud Atlas), knowledge. Tickets will go on sale under a new name and with renewed Joanne Harris (Chocolat), Laura at the end of July at Waterstones direction. A partnership between Bates (Everyday Sexism Project) and and Battersea Arts Centre. Waterstones and the Clapham crime fiction writer Mark Billingham Junction Town Centre Partnership, it amongst others. For more information please call is supported by Wandsworth Council. The Director of the Cheltenham Lorinda Freint on 020 7627 3182. John Daunt, the new managing Poetry Festival Anna Saunders will Lorinda Freint is Clapham Junction director of Waterstones, will appear run Poetry Performance Party, and Town Centre manager.

13 Museum on the move Wandsworth museum may move to Lavender Hill, Jenny Sheridan learns

Wandsworth Museum and the De a new cultural and community centre at Tooting Library. Despite a Morgan Collection are both on the in north London. The trustees are professed wish to preserve a sense move. Sheila Allen, chair of the currently recruiting an interim director. of ‘Wandsworthness’, the Council Friends of Wandsworth Museum, Ms Allen is unsure when the planned split the museum’s collection explains that the Council’s rent- museum will re-open, but it is unlikely and offer small displays in local free period ends in April 2015. The to be before spring 2015. The Friends libraries. building on West Hill is expensive of the museum aim to continue The Friends of the Wandsworth to maintain so the board of trustees holding events, including coffee Museum are holding a tea party in decided to move. They are currently in mornings and occasional evening Battersea Library at 4pm on Monday negotiation with the Council’s library talks. There will also be walks around 4 August. Battersea Society members providers, GLL Ltd over the future Battersea, led by Blue Badge guide are invited, says Sheila Allen. use of a room at Battersea Library on (and leader of the opposition on the The fine De Morgan Collection has Lavender Hill. Council) Rex Osborn. also closed. Curator Claire Longworth ‘It is on the first floor, next to the says, ‘The De Morgan Foundation archive collection,’ says Ms Allen. ‘It is Supportive is currently in discussions with a smaller than the large space where we Funding remains problematic. range of museums and galleries held temporary exhibitions on West The Council is responsible for the with regards to loans and touring Hill, but larger than the permanent museum’s collection. The Hintze exhibitions of the collection. However collections room. It has high ceilings family trust, which stepped in to save we are planning to remain based in and we are working with a local the museum when it was threatened Wandsworth to allow us to continue museum designer who is pleased with closure in 2007, is still supportive. to offer access to our collection, with that. It is more affordable, which A historical note: the museum archives and as a point from which to is important. We are working closely was formerly situated in the Court deliver outreach. Once negotiations with the heritage department and House in Garratt Lane. In 2007 for this base have completed we also hope to be able to work with Wandsworth Council proposed we will of course publicise it.’ Battersea Arts Centre.’ closing the museum, to widespread wandsworthmuseumgroup Neil Couzens, the museum’s and passionate local opposition, in @hotmail.co.uk director for three years, has left to order to open a library in the Court become marketing director at JW3, House and to fund improvements

Join the hen party! A local care home is looking for friends, says Mac Downes

George Potter House is a care home friends’ – people who can in Battersea High Street, registered spend a few hours in the year for up to sixty-nine residents. It helping gather resources provides care for the elderly frail and and making things happen. those suffering with memory loss The staff are very supportive conditions. of the initiative and see it Friends as a welcome addition to With support from Wandsworth the facilities and activities Older People’s Forum a ‘Friends currently provided for of George Potter Association’ residents. has been set up. Its aim will be to Chickens can help to liven up a garden provide extras to enhance a spirit of Fundraising belonging and community. Although To date the association has held a If you would like to help contact the wishes of residents will always be relatives’ and residents’ tea party Wendy Abram, email info@ at the forefront of the association’s and a successful table top sale. Now, georgepottercare.org activities, the residents are often too helped by a grant from Wandsworth Tel 020 7223 3224 frail or confused to make these things Big Society Fund, we are setting up georgepotterfriends.org happen without outside support. a ‘Live Hen Project’ (yes, actual egg- To date a small committee laying hens that are named and cared Mac Downes comprising relatives and friends of for by residents). Future plans include Outreach manager Wandsworth Older residents has been formed. We are fundraising to enhance the garden People’s Forum, Treasurer, Friends of now looking for additional ‘community area. George Potter Association

14 ‘Happy, healthy homes for sober and industrious workmen’ Historian John Boughton admires the Latchmere Estate

The Latchmere Estate is an attractive, Houses in secluded enclave of Battersea – Burns Road built in 1903 easily overlooked but historically remarkable. Opened in August 1903, it was the first council estate in Britain to be built by direct labour – by the Council’s own workforce – and it 58 entries, took place in 1901 tainted by an off-licence or degraded remains a superb exemplar of the and building began shortly after. by a beer-shop.’ practical idealism of Labour’s first The estate, a mix of houses and Indeed, Burns went further: The generation of municipal reformers. tenements, was attractively designed home was the centre of health, the For those Labour pioneers, the and built – unapologetically – to cradle of character. If they wanted to case for direct labour was obvious: high specifications. As the mayor arrest drinking, and stop the decay it safeguarded workers’ pay and explained: of physique, they should multiply conditions, it respected trades union ‘The dwellings were novel of their colonies like this estate all over rights and it guaranteed better value kind, containing as they did what London and the United Kingdom. and higher quality than could be had once been regarded as luxuries, delivered by private interest. The such as baths, combined ranges Controversial Battersea Trades and Labour Council and electric light. Not many working Burns’ sentiments reflected the thought direct labour as ‘necessary men had such accommodation in National Efficiency arguments of the to the well-being of the community’ which to bring up their families, but day, sparked by recruitment concerns as ‘municipal housing, electric light, the Battersea Borough Council had during the Boer War and fear of rising libraries [and] baths.’ come to the conclusion that such German competition. Patriotic alarm accommodation was an absolute at the poor physique of the British Municipal Mecca necessity.’ lower orders and genuine concern By the turn of the last century That electricity, incidentally, for working-class living conditions Battersea had become the ‘Municipal was supplied by the Council’s own joined with repugnance of a working- Mecca’. Its left-wing politics reflected generating station whilst the estate’s class lifestyle often seen by the the powerful local presence and water supply came from an artesian middle class as tainted by alcohol and radicalism of the Progressive Alliance. well sunk by the Council which also unredeemed by self-help. The Alliance had already secured a served the adjacent Latchmere Baths. The street names mark the majority in the pre-reform Vestry in 315 dwellings were provided in Battersea Labour movement’s values. 1894 but came into its own with the total: 28 five-room houses, one four- Freedom and Reform Streets speak creation of metropolitan borough room house, 70 houses each with for themselves. Other streets were councils in 1900. two three-room tenements with bath named after local Labour leaders In the first elections to the new scullery and 73 houses each with – Burns himself and Matthews and Battersea council, Progressives two four-room tenements with bath Odger. More controversially, Joubert won 37 seats against 17 for their scullery. Each tenement had its own Street was named after a commander Conservative opponents. One of the entrance and its own back garden of Boer forces in the recent conflict new councillors, Fred Knee, founder (with stairway access in the case of – Battersea had been a centre of anti- of the Workmen’s Housing Council, first-floor tenements). Of 11 acres, war sentiment. was elected chair of the Housing three were preserved as open space. In conclusion, perhaps we can Committee. (Knee is commemorated The houses themselves were share John Burns’ ‘delight that by a plaque at his former home at 24 solidly built of good quality stock one of his ideals of his early days Sugden Road.) John Burns, a leading brick. Bands of red brick, white had been realised, the securing of independent Progressive, was the masonry quoins and entrance happy, healthy homes for sober and local MP. canopies added an attractive industrious workmen.’ Moreover, as An area of allotments on the decorative touch whilst the recreation he stated of the Latchmere Estate: former Latchmere Common had long ground in the centre of the estate ‘The land has a communal been identified as potential building provided some welcome greenery. origin, the streets bear demo- land but it took the perseverance of The estate as a whole was granted cratic names; the whole plan, Burns and others to secure acts of Conservation Area status in 1974. history and achievement is Parliament in 1899 and 1900 which There were absences too which redolent of the common victory finally granted the right to build. were just as important. John Burns of the common people.’ The Council acted quickly. A expressed his pleasure at the estate’s John Boughton is a social historian. design competition, attracting formal opening that it ‘would not be municipaldreams.wordpress.com

15 Open Garden Squares Weekend comes to Battersea

Three local gardens opened their grounds to visitors from across the capital on Open Garden Squares Weekend 14 – 15 June. Share Community Garden in the grounds of Springfield Hospital above and left, Thrive, in Battersea Park below left and Bramfield Community Garden near Old York Road below right all showed off their blooms and produce.

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