Issue No. 197 Wednesday, December 23 - Thursday, January 21, 2016

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9 7 7 1 8 2 0 8 3 3 0 0 0 Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough - - - NEWS NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. page 10 hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W Issue No. 1 / Friday, June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, page 5 conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party E Friday • June 13 2008 THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED ense negotiations on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T

White City Christmas

NYE's Vučić: New Year’s Belgraders’ Serbia in hottest Naughty survival New Year’s a suitcase clubs or nice in 2016? guide wishes

Pages 4 and 5 Page 8 Page 10 page 11 Page 14

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Wednesday, December 23 - Thursday, January 21, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Wednesday, December 23 - Thursday, January 21, 2016 3 YEAR IN REVIEW YEAR IN REVIEW

MARCH 18th JULY 11th marched through the Serbian capital Serbia arrests eight for Srebrenica 20th anniversary after riot police shut down the city centre Srebrenica massacre marked with tears and anger to ensure security and senior officials A year on Serbia detained eight former Bosnian Tens of thousands of people mourned warned that violence would not be Serbia: Closer to EU dreams Serb policemen accused of involvement at a commemoration ceremony in Sre- tolerated. in the mass killings of Bosniaks from brenica for the victims of the July 1995 nd Srebrenica in July 1995. massacres, but some targeted their anger SEPTEMBER 22 at the Serbian prime minister. Serbian protesters say waterfront the move th Serbia’s 2015 APRIL 16 contract flawed Freed Croatian Serb leader Hadzic JULY 29th Protest group 'Let's not Drown Belgrade' arrives in Serbia highlights ISIS poses threat says the contract for the Belgrade Water- From anniversaries and arrests to War crimes defendant Goran Hadžić to Balkans, Ministers say front project shows Serbia is surrender- arrived in the Serbian capital after being include keeping The interior ministers of Montenegro, ing its sovereignty with no guarantees media freedom, Belgrade Insight looks temporarily released by the UN court in Bosnia and Herzegovina and Serbia said from the Gulf investors. The Hague for cancer treatment. Russia close, back at the stories that dominated the that ISIS was a real threat which could th news in 2015. APRIL 28th be fought only by cooperation between NOVEMBER 9 opening the first New BIRN war crimes film regional security services. Kosovo’s UNESCO premieres in Belgrade membership bid fails th EU chapters and BIRN's latest feature-length documen- AUGUST 20 Kosovo’s application to join the UN tary, which investigates the commanders Serbia PM dangles prospect cultural body did not attract enough th Prime Minister JANUARY 5 FEBRUARY 9th responsible for some of the most brutal of early elections votes from UNESCO member states, Serbia seizes Marilyn Monroe purse Kosovo and Serbia resume attacks of the Kosovo war, was screened Serbian Prime Minister Aleksandar amid strong opposition from Serbia and Aleksandar Serbian authorities seized a purse that EU-backed talks for the first time in Belgrade. Vučić on Wednesday announced pos- its allies. belonged to the Hollywood star from Top officials from Serbia and Kosovo are sible early elections - though some critics th Vučić’s battles crime suspects. meeting in Brussels as the dialogue on MAY 14 say polls would be frivolous when the DECEMBER 3rd normalising relations between Belgrade Serbia rehabilitates WWII chetnik government has a stable majority. Serbia welcomes freed th against the JANUARY 26 and Pristina resumes after ten months of leader Mihailovic Yugoslav army war criminal A Belgrade court rehabilitated Chetnik th Serbian PM slams BIRN again standstill. AUGUST 26 Former Yugoslav Army official Vladimir Serbian Prime Minister Aleksandar leader Dragoljub ‘Draža’ Mihailović, who independent Serbia and Kosovo reach Lazarević, released early after serving Vučić again accused the Balkan Inves- th was executed for high treason and Nazi col- FEBRUARY 20 four key agreements his sentence for Kosovo war crimes, was tigative Reporting Network of lying to laboration in 1946, after hearings that high- Serbian and Kosovo officials on Tuesday media. Belgrade Insight kicked out of given a hero’s welcome after being flown undermine his government in an investi- lighted longstanding divisions in Serbia. reached four key agreements in what the distribution points home by two senior Serbian ministers. gation of a controversial mine tender. Distribution of Belgrade Insight has EU called a landmark achievement in JUNE 2nd been stopped at Belgrade airport and the normalisation process, enabling both th th Serbian security officers deny DECEMBER 15 JANUARY 29 at Tourist Organisation of Belgrade sides to advance on their European path. journalist’s murder Serbian security chiefs’ war crimes Serbian army chief accused over centres in what appears a continua- Ivana NIKOLIĆ At the first hearing in the trial of three acquittal quashed Kosovo killings tion of the government-led campaign AUGUST 27th former state security officers for the no- The Hague Tribunal overturned the The Belgrade-based Humanitarian Law against BIRN. Serbian war criminal Šainović erbia opened the EU ac- torious 1999 killing of prominent Serbian acquittal of former Serbian security Centre accused the current head of the returns to Belgrade cession talks in 2015. Al- journalist Slavko Ćuruvija, the accused officials Jovica Stanišić and Franko Serbian Army of commanding troops MARCH 11th The former deputy prime minister of though it expected to do pleaded not guilty. Simatović, ordering them to be retried for who attacked four Kosovo villages in 1999, EU Parliament raps Serbia, Yugoslavia, Nikola Šainović, convicted of so earlier, Serbia opened controlling the most notorious combat when at least 69 civilians were killed. Montenegro on media freedom JULY 8th war crimes in the Kosovo conflict, was re- the first two EU chapters units in the Balkan wars. in Brussels on December The European Parliament's 2014 Russia vetoes UN Srebrenica leased and returned home after serving FEBRUARY 3rd th resolution on Montenegro highlights genocide resolution two-thirds of his 18-year prison sentence. 14S – Chapter 35, on normalisations of DECEMBER 8th ICJ rejects genocide claims of Serbia the relations with the former province the need for further reform in the Russia voted down a UN Security Coun- and Croatia th th US rate rise spells trouble for Serbia of Kosovo, and Chapter 32, addressing judiciary and for improvements cil resolution marking the 20 anniver- SEPTEMBER 20 The International Court of Justice has re- Fed's decision to raise interest rates will financial control. to media freedom - while another sary of the Srebrenica massacres, calling Belgrade stages gay pride jected the mutual genocide suits brought likely increase the size of Serbia's debts - Commenting on the good news from resolution, on Serbia, makes similar it anti-Serb and saying it would increase amid heavy security both by Serbia and Croatia. a third of which are held in US dollars. Brussels, Vučić called it a big day for Refugees crossing Serbian-Croatian border close to the Serbian town of Šid during the summer. Photo: BIRN/Filip Avramović demands. tensions in Bosnia. Several hundred gay rights supporters Serbia. “December 14th is an important day. himself up as a tireless leader, repeat- ‘FOREIGN MERCENARIES’ female journalist knelt down so that a crisis more successfully than most of After opening the first chapters, we will edly claiming to work all day and not colleague could have a good shot with their neighbors. show what kind of society we want to sleep much. He was in charge almost of Vučić also continued his war with the camera, Gašić jested: “I love it when belong to and what we want to build in everything in Serbia, held almost daily the independent media - his biggest en- female journalists kneel so easily.” LURING our country,” he pledged. press conferences and pledged to be emies. He did apologize eventually, but that INVESTORS PRIORITY But during the year, Serbian officials the most serious protector of national A smear campaign against BIRN and didn’t prevent Vučić sacking Gašić over continued a delicate balancing act be- interests. other two watchdog organisations, his ‘reckless’ comment. On November 20th, Serbia finally tween Russia, its traditional ally and His closest allies claimed there were CINS and KRIK revved up - the govern- But Vučić’ promise is still just a prom- clinched an agreement on a billion-eu- the EU. attempts to assassin the prime minister. ment and its allies referred to them as ise: it remains to be seen when and how ro precautionary loan with the Inter- In early September, the Serbian Army The most serious ‘attempt’ took place foreign mercenaries financed from the Gašić will be removed and who will re- national Monetary Fund, IMF, in the participated in joint military exercises when protesters threw stones at him West to bring down the government. place him. hopes creating confidence and luring with Russia and Belarus, despite oppo- during the 20th commemoration of the The tabloid Informer alleged that investors. sition from the EU. The exercises, called Srebrenica genocide in July. foreign grants were given to NGOs on MIGRANT CRISIS The IMF suspended its last precau- Slavic Brotherhood, were held in south- TV Pink hosted a daylong pro- dates coinciding with publications of tionary loan programme with Ser- ern Russia. gramme called ‘Assassination Attempt “false affairs against people close to the Like the rest of the Balkans, Serbia bia in February 2012 when Belgrade A month later, Vučić and an entou- on Vučić,’ a pattern of fear mongering government”. saw a massive influx of refugees and stopped meeting agreed targets on rage of ministers and around 100 Serbi- and conspiracy established by the gov- Informer also published a document migrants coming from the Middle East spending and public debt. an businessmen headed for a three-day ernment’s mouthpiece. purporting to be BIRN financial state- and Africa. Since the beginning of the “We want to be an economically visit to Russia in a bid to foster econom- Shortly after, there came a series ment from Raiffeisen Bank. The tabloid year, around 500,000 refugees from competitive country, not someone ic and political ties. They returned with of similar programmes dealing with claimed that the European Commis- the Middle East and Africa have been who will be trying to reach the EU a deal to purchase weapons and mili- events that were ‘destabilising the sion is “directly funding attempts to registered in Serbia. countries, but a country that would be tary equipment from Russia in order to country.’ bring Vučić down and instigate chaos The chaotic situation led to Serbia able to earn and secure a good life to maintain a security balance in the re- November was marked by ‘coup in Serbia.” and Croatia trading accusations and all its citizens,” Vučić then said. gion after Croatia bought new military d’état’ claims, raised by pro-government closing border crossings in Septem- But apart from the successful deal hardware. journalists and some Serbian minis- MINISTERIAL TROUBLES ber, a move that lead to a trade war. with the IMF, the year was marked by “We will be buying weapons which ters. In an hours’ long TV programme But the Paris tragedy put Serbia - as several protests organized by angry citi- enable us to protect our own territory,” ‘Overthrowing Vučić, The Final Act,’ The past year was also marred by well as the whole of the Balkans – into zens – ranging from the farmers dissatis- Vučić said. broadcast on Pink TV, tabloid news edi- several cases of politicians’ alleged cor- the spotlight. A Syrian passport under fied with the proposed new land law and At the same time, Serbian soldiers tor Dragan J. Vučićević named nearly a ruption, ministers’ blunders, purchas- the name of Ahmad al-Mohammad the Swiss Franc Borrowers to protesters took part in a US-led military exercise dozen people he claimed were involved ing luxurious apartments on the Bul- was found near the body of a suicide opposing Belgrade Waterfront, the city’s in Germany with other NATO states. in a conspiracy to overthrow Vučić. garian coast and – most recently – fatal bomber near the Stade de France stadi- riverside development project. Relations with Kosovo were also in A day later, Vučić said the claims sexist insults. um. It has not been confirmed whether There were also the protests organ- the spotlight. were not true. Belgrade Mayor Siniša Mali was in the passport is genuine, but police of- ized by teachers, and pensioners’ un- In late August, Vučić and Isa Mustafa, “There is a permanent intent here to the middle of a row over the 24 apart- ficers in the Balkans confirmed that ions’ outcry – two out of several public Kosovo Prime Minister finalized key undermine the government of Serbia, ments he allegedly bought in Bulgaria the man pictured on the Syrian pass- sectors severely stricken by Novem- deals on energy, telecommunications but that is not a coup,” he said. as the legal representative of the two port passed along the Balkan refugee ber 2014 budget cuts, ranging from 10 and the Association of Serbian Munici- However, that was not the end of offshore companies based in the Brit- “route” running through Greece, Mac- to 25 per cent. palities. ‘pressures’ against Vučić in 2015. ish Virgin Islands. Mali dismissed the edonia, Serbia and Croatia. After the talks with IMF back in July, They also agreed an arrangement for Not long after the coup, Vučić took a claims despite opposition’s calls for the The number of refuges fell following Vučić promised to increase the public the Ibar river bridge, which splits the di- lie-detector test to prove he is innocent immediate removal. the deadly Paris attacks, when Serbia sector salaries as of January 2016 and vided northern Kosovo town of Mitro- of media blackmail allegations after Still, it seems that most attention was – together with other countries in the also increased pensions by some 250 vica into Serbian and Albanian parts. Aleksandar Rodić, owner of taboid put on Serbia’s Defence Minister Brati- region - closed its borders to so-called dinars (around €2). Kurir, which, until recently, backed slav Gašić. Despite many of his wrong- economic refugees. From November Vučić then said the increase will not BECOMING A LEADER Vučić’s government. Rodić accused the doings – including nepotism claims 19th, only refugees from Syria, Afghani- be symbolical but that it would be less Serbian premier of being involved in a and a March helicopter crash which stan and Iraq are treated as legal mi- than what IMF would allow as Serbia – Prime Minister Vučić dominated black attempt to prevent him from buy- left seven people dead – it was a sexist grants. as he said – wants to ensure progress. Serbian media in more ways than one ing the veteran broadsheet newspaper remark in the beginning of December Meanwhile, Serbian leaders under- “I am bigger IMF than IMF,” the PM in 2015. Throughout the year, he built Politika. that cost him a minister post. When the lined several times they managed the said at the time. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Wednesday, December 23 - Thursday, January 21, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Wednesday, December 23 - Thursday, January 21, 2016 5 FESTIVE GUIDE WHITE CITY CHRISTMAS NYE's hottest clubs

Photo: Facebook Venue: STARI BLAY (BLAYWATCH) Venue: KAFANA Address: Brodarska bb GAUČOSI Venue: SEMAFOR ŽURKA Price: €26 Address: Vojvode Bojovića 10 Address: Sarajevska 24 Photo: Facebook Contact: 066 222 154 Price: €35 Price: €30 Contact: 066 222 154 Contact: 060 6507650 Venue: DRUGSTORE Venue: MONSUN Stari Blay, better known as Blay- Venue: RED SHOES Venue: KLUB BETON Venue: DRAGSTOR PLAY BEOGRAD Address: Travnička 3 watch, has been a mainstay on the Address: Ada Ciganlija Address: Karađorđeva 2-4 Kafana Gaučosi has been one of Address: Ušće bb The “Semafor Žurka” (Traffic Venue: TUBE Address: Bulevar Despota Stefana 15 Price: €7-11 Belgrade “splav” scene for a long time Price: €29 + Price: €20 (VIP: €200) the most popular traditional Serbian Venue: CLUB 94 Price: €40-70 Light Party), has become a staple of Address: Simina 21 Price: n/a Contact: 065 4755115 and is one of the most enduring river- Contact: 064 110 38 66 Contact: 066 222 154 taverns for a while now and is one of Address: Bulevar vojvode Bojovića bb Contact: 061 55 55 658 Belgrade's New Year's Eve offerings. Price: €7 Contact: 063 8287928 side clubs of its kind. This is the place the best places to take foreign friends Price: from €25 Several years old now, it always takes Contact: 062 8737032 If you're a fan of R&B and hip-hop to be if you want the most authentic If you don't want to be on the Danube Beton is one of those clubs that is if they want to experience a kafana. Contact: 061 55 55 658 This is another good place on the place at a different location, usu- If you're not looking to move much This is where all of the hip kids and music, this is the New Year's Eve party Belgrade New Year's experience on or Sava but still want a little bit of water only open when there is a special party Since it used to be more of a club than river if you want that luxury, up-scale ally an empty apartment that isn't an from the strict city centre and want true electronic music connoisseurs are for you. Monsun is one of the most the river. Of course, you have to take in your view, you can head over to Red planned. Of course, New Year's Eve is a tavern, it's definitely a more interest- Another good spot on the river, Club Belgrade New Year's experience. It's everyday club. It's definitely a party for a safe bet, Tube has been a Belgrade going to be on December 31st. popular clubs in the Savamala neigh- into consideration that Stari Blay is a Shoes at Ada Ciganlija. Red Shoes has such an occasion. Some of Belgrade's ing place to spend the night than most 94 features DJ Calvin Viviano spin- not for everyone, but if you want to feel young single more than anything else, clubbing stable for over a decade. With Anyone who is a fan of serious elec- bourhood, so the turnout on December place where Serbian folk/pop music been throwing great New Year's parties best Djs play Beton, and this night will other “fancy kafanas“ of its ilk. You get ning the hottest in commercial R&B part of the local celebrity jetset, and so if you're over 27, you might want to Tube, you know what you're going to tronic music, especially more under- 31st would be great no matter what was dominates, so if you can't stomach that for a while now and shouldn't disap- be no different. This is your place if the authentic ambience, but without and house tracks. The cover price gets don't mind spending a couple hundred stay away. get every night, not just on New Year's. ground variants of techno, should not on the programme. But the fact that the sound, you should probably avoid it. point this year either. you're a fan of electronic music, espe- the local drunkards and depression you into the door and gives you unlim- of euros on New Year's, it's worth check- The parties are always huge and this It is one of the premier clubs in the city think twice before deciding to head Vatra (Fire) DJ collective is spinning But if you like upscale establish- When it comes to bang for your buck, cially techno, and all-night raves. that comes with the real traditional ited domestic drinks, but you'll pay a bit ing out. year is no different. There is room for centre when it comes to electronic mu- over to Drugstore. The club is announc- that night guarantees that Monsun will ments with proper dress codes, live Red Shoes delivers: food, live music, The €20 entrance fee does not ones. more if you want to sit. You get local drinks and even some about 1,500 people at the party this sic and all-night raves. The New Year's ing its New Year's lineup incrementally, be one of the hippiest places on New Serbian pop music interspersed with drinks and a nice lake view for under include drinks, and drinks can get If you want authentic Serbian live You can get a VIP booth for 10-15 peo- light finger food with the cover charge, year. There will be six stages with a party will be Dj’ed by some of Belgrade's but it's good enough already. It features Year's Eve. local house DJ teams while the live €30, if you're not looking to get a booth pretty pricey in Beton. If you have music, good food and drinks, this could ple for an additional €500, a regular but as usual, sitting in a nice booth is variety of music being played on each. finest and a few foreign guests, includ- Neil Landstrumm, a DJ and motion With a cheap entrance fee and a band takes breaks, this club should be and bottle service. The price includes the money and want to go all out, be a good place to check out. And if booth for 8-10 people costs €250, and so going to cost between €200 and €700. There will even be a karaoke stage. The ing Kid Kimi, Danijel Cehranov, Zwein, graphics artists from Edinburgh, Ser- location in the epicentre of Belgrade's on the top of your list. The cover charge an all-you-can-eat buffet, drinks and you can hook up a VIP booth for 200 you are driving, it's good to know that on. All of these options also come with The music, expectedly, will be provided concept is the same as it is every year, John Belk and more. bian techno king Filip Xavi, who has nightclub scene and proximity to other includes drinks, but only standards like live music on two stages by two differ- euros, which comes with a bottle of Gaučosi has its own parking, so you bottle service. But if you want to keep it by a team of Djs who all pretty much everyone wears a green, yellow, or red The entrance fee is cheap, but drinks played all of Europe's best clubs over great clubs, you can make Monsun one beer, wine and some liquors. Cocktails ent bands. Expect Serbian pop music either champagne, high-end vodka or won't have to spend half the night look- at the €25, you can just come early and play the same type of popular house sign on their shirts to indicate whether are not included. You can get tickets for the last few years, Belgrade clubbing of several of your New Year’s stops. must be paid for individually. and popular electronic music all night. bourbon. ing for an empty spot on the street. grab a place at the bar. music. The party ends at 5am. they are single, undecided, or taken. the event at: http://www.ddtickets.rs/. staples Tijana T and Kristijan Molnar.

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If you are part of an interfaith Arias is an Orthodox Serb guments and hurt feelings if one part- marriage, holidays can be an oppor- a celebration discord - or a learning experience. from Belgrade. ner feels ignored or dismissed. tunity to learn something new about This year, they are cele- Managing an interfaith relation- your partner, yourself and the cul- can be heard Jbrating their newborn son Ivan’s first ship at Christmas time requires open ture. Christmas together and are working and honest communication between Another mixed-faith couple, Andre hard to balance the traditions and partners and families. Couples need Marotto, 40, and his wife Katarina, several floors rituals of different religious traditions. to be aware of potential issues and 41, say they have used their different They need to decide on a num- decide how to cope ahead of time. backgrounds to deepen their faith down. ber of things, starting with whether “It was an important question for and understanding of each other. Christmas is on December 25th or us, and we talked a lot about how “When you relate to other tradi- January 7th. we wanted to celebrate,” Jaime said. tions, you are forced to go back to the Do they give presents on Christ- “We’ve never had a problem with it essentials of what unites us as Chris- Drew ADAMEK mas Day, as in the Catholic tradition, because we agreed ahead of time.” tians and leads us back to the basis or leave the gifts to New Year, which is “I counsel people to be respectful of our faith,” Marotto, a Brazilian Prot- he International Chris- the Serbian way? Will Ivan be Catho- to the other faith,” Fr Robin Fox, chap- estant, said. “It definitely widens our tian Fellowship’s annu- lic or Orthodox, or both? lain of the Anglican Church of St Mary horizons and how we perceive our al Christmas Carol ser- “We have two cultures in our home in Belgrade, said. faith.” vice is in full swing and and we want to keep the traditions of Many members of his congregation But marital circumstances can filled with the sounds both cultures,” Jaime said. are in religiously mixed marriages. sometimes make compromise diffi- of joyful singing and “We agree on religious values but “It’s a valid way of doing things, to cult. Tchildren laughing. it is very important to us to respect Ivana Đorđević, 24, grew up in a At the front of the wide, open room a those traditions without giving any- religiously mixed home that celebrat- band plays as the congregation stands, thing up.” ed both the Catholic and Orthodox sways and sings along to classic Christ- Jaime, 35, and Dra- Christmas holidays. mas tunes. Children scamper through- gana, 30, are find- Since her marriage, Ivana has only out. ing that, while celebrated Orthodox Christmas be- The congregation is probably the there are The key issue cause her husband and his family are most globally diverse gathering in Bel- challenges in Orthodox Serbs. However, she hopes grade outside of diplomatic circles: balancing re- usually centers to change that soon. Russian, American, Brazilian, English, ligious faiths “We still live with my mother and Serbian, Indonesian, German and Pa- in a marriage, around how father-in-law. But when my husband kistani worshippers stand shoulder to an interfaith and I and my daughters move to our shoulder, laughing and smiling with marriage can be an enriching expe- to celebrate own place, we will celebrate Catholic every note. rience if both are willing to compro- holidays as well. That is still part of They’ve come together to celebrate mise and share. me,” Ivana said. Christmas early because many will “The key issue usually centres Christmas Sometimes, finding the way to ap- leave Serbia for the holidays and this around how to celebrate Christmas preciate religious difference can be non-denominational church has be- without alienating the other partner,” without as simple as trying out some new come a place of comfort and familiarity. said Jon M. Sweeney, co-author of the food. All over Belgrade, non-Orthodox book Mixed-up Love: Relationships, alienating the “Last year, I cooked a turkey on De- Christians- from Catholics to Anglicans Family and Religious Identity in the cember 25th and it was the first time to Baptist, gather in small groups to 21st Century, in an email interview. other partner.” most of my wife’s family had ever had share the joy of the holidays, and some “It can be rich for a family when it a whole roast turkey,” Jaime said. are discovering new insights about is done right. Kids are able to grow up “They loved all the sauces and their faith. appreciating and even participating sides that they had never seen before, For some foreign non-Orthodox in two or more traditions at once,” he Jon M. Sweeney, and it was a super fun way for them to Christians, away from the consumerist Father Robin Fox counsels people to be Photo: Courtesy of Father Robin Fox added. author share my traditions.” pressures of the Western holiday sea- respectful to the other faith. son, Christmas in Belgrade is a chance to reconnect with the religious roots of the holiday, and a welcome oppor- Illustration. Photo: Flickr/Mo Riza tunity to establish meaningful rela- tionships with I miss the family aspect but in some This lack of marketing pressure al- The calendar also makes foreigners a new com- lows people to focus on family and faith think differently about Christmas while munity. instead of presents and expectations. in Serbia. Orthodox Christmas falls on “I miss the ways it's more poignant, more But that focus on simplicity also comes January 7th and for denominations that family aspect from necessity. follow the Gregorian calendar, Christ- but in some spiritual without that here. It is purely Different Christmas traditions and mas is December 25th, just another ways it's more customs in Serbia make it harder for workday in Belgrade. poignant, more spiritual without that religious and it becomes about non-Orthodox Christians to find the For Stephen Donegan, Bikram Yoga CITY GUIDE Available at: here. It is purely religious and it be- trappings, ingredients and ephemera of Belgrade owner and manager, the date Tourist Organisation of Belgrade comes about celebrating the birth of celebrating the birth of Christ in a very their Christmas celebrations. shaped his Christmas celebrations. He Knez Mihailova 5, +381 (11) 2635 622 Christ in a very simple way,” said Esther Some traditionally Western Christ- plans on keeping his yoga studio open Central Train Station, +381 (11) 3612 732 Helizan, a member of St Mary’s Angli- mas foods remain elusive, especially as normal on December 25th. Nikola Tesla Airport, +381 (11) 2097 828 simple way.” Belgrade Port, Karađorđeva can Church of Belgrade. quality mincemeat, turkeys and fresh “I have a business and here, Christ- APROPO While finding a new spiritual con- cranberries and getting them to the ta- mas isn’t until January,” said Donegan. Hotel Moskva Bookstore and tearoom nection with Christmas, many foreign- ble requires creativity. “But I don’t mind because Christmas FREE PULL OUT MAP OF BELGRADE Terazije 20, +381 11 3642 000 Cara Lazara 10 +381 11 2625839 ers still miss the Christmas traditions of Esther Helizan, a member of St Mary’s “Finding (traditional Christmas) food for me has always been about going Hotel Excelsior FREE SIM CARD home. can take some detective work. We've had home and spending time with my Kneza Miloša 5, +381 11 3231 381 At the Belgrade Airport Anglican Church of Belgrade TOP SIGHTSEEING LOCATIONS "It's silly things. It's not the real mean- to bring in cranberries from Vienna and family, and I’ve already done that this Supermarket concept store Hudson news odlasci / departures ing of Christmas but I miss the decora- mincemeat from London when we were year.” PUBLIC TRANSPORT MAP Višnjićeva 10, +381 11 2910 942 Hudson news dolasci / arrivals GUIDED TOURS THROUGH BELGRADE Hudson news čekiranje / check in tions, the lights, seeing them every- to being inundated with Christmas mu- of October. In England, in America, it’s travelling,” said American Gussie Dunstan. But those differences between Christ- Hotel Townhouse 27 Hudson news transit zona / transit where out in streets, in people's houses, sic, advertising, decorations, food, and everywhere; you can't possibly forget There has been a vast increase in mas in Belgrade or in Britain don’t WIDE SELECTION OF CLUBS, HOTELS, Maršala Birjuzova 56, +381 11 2022 900 Order online: seeing everyone’s Christmas lights as sales everywhere the comparatively that you need to buy presents, you the availability of Western Christ- matter to Briton John Field, ICF board RESTAURANTS, SHOPS AND Booking Rooms Hostel you drive around town,” said American low-key atmosphere in Belgrade can need to buy a turkey,” said Briton Emily mas goods in Belgrade over the last member and the lay leader of the carol Kralja Petra 30, +381 63 29 39 39 www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/ ENTERTAINMENT VALUE www.bookingrooms.rs belgrade-city-guide Theresa Crawford. come as a welcome relief. Dervišević. “Often here, even a week ten years. Christmas tree markets are service. Christmas in Serbia isn’t the com- “I don't get the same sense of urgen- ahead, I haven't done anything yet springing up, most notably at Kalenić “It doesn’t matter when we celebrate, mercial and marketing event that it is in cy here. In England, Christmas starts at because I haven't felt that I need to get market in Vračar, and stores all over the but that we have the birth of our sav- Western countries. For foreigners used the end of September, at the beginning started.” city carry decorations. iour to celebrate,” Field said. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Wednesday, December 23 - Thursday, January 21, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Wednesday, December 23 - Thursday, January 21, 2016 9 FESTIVE GUIDE WHITE CITY CHRISTMAS Vučić: Naughty Ring in the New Year or nice in Balkan style 2016? What will Santa bring in his giant bag for the Serbian Prime Minister in 2016 and how will it change life for Serbian citizens?

Slobodan GEORGIEV His paranoid egoism has taken an al- most metaphysical form. His constant efore we sneak a peek at public attacks on anyone who does not Mr. Vučić’s 2016 Christ- support him, at his daily press confer- mas list to Santa let’s take ences and lengthy TV interviews mon- a look at his behavior this ologues, have become an iconic and year. There’s certain crite- weird representation of political life in ria Santa needs to know, Serbia: it exists only if it is connected to beforeB deciding to give Mr. Vučić any Vučić. presents, the same things he asks of all Despite his manipulation of media good boys and girls: did you act properly; puppets, let's see what has happened did you respect the rule of law; did you in “real life”. People are scared and de- pass all your lie detector tests; were you pressed, and dominated by constant generous to your friends and cronies? feelings of crisis, stoked by Vučić’s de- By these measures, it seems that 2015 fensive megalomania. was a very good year for Mr. Vučić in- Economic growth in 2015 was better deed. This was his third year in the cabi- than in 2014 but remember that major net, and it appears he has total power flooding in 2014 devastated Serbian in- over the country in his hands. dustries. Compared to a catastrophic Vučić needs presents that will truly change Serbian society. Photo: Beta At home, he continues to valiantly 2014, this was a year of growth but still Ring in 2016 in cities across the Balkans. Photo: Hotnews.ro fight against Serbia’s imagined enemies, not enough to show to ordinary people lessness and, in the absence of anything Christmas list to Santa. It’ll be a big list. Mr. Vučić should ask Santa for the gift those most deadly of foes: actors, play that Serbia is on a solid economic path. substantially important, the national TV He needs something to stop his ratings of respect for independent institutions directors, academics, journalists and It’s hard to take credit for such a de- station beats a steady drum of sports slide, and he needs presents that will in Serbia and the humility to ask them New Year’s Eve New Year’s is just a part of the weeks event to celebrate the start of 2016 but clubs, bars and restaurants. Make sure to world’s most cosmopolitan cities: Paris, activists from civil sector. Borrowing a pressing economy: it is almost impos- and silliness to keep up a happy façade. truly change Serbian society. for help in solving Serbia’s problems. long ‘Zagreb Advent’ program celebrat- has not released further details. book both your hotel and New Year’s Eve New York and Istanbul. Veterans of the page from Mr. George W. Bush’s war on sible to find a job once you’ve lost one; The public is anesthetized and unmo- The historic opening of the EU nego- The point is not to for independents to in the Balkans ing the holiday season. Throughout the Some events have been confirmed. venue on time. And be ready to pay a bit Bulgarian pop scene Lilly Ivanova and terror strategy, Mr. Vučić has bravely de- youngsters are thinking only about tivated to participate in public life. Most tiation chapters can be the baseline for work for his government but to work festival, open-air events are held regular- The National Philarmonic will play more than usual, as the lowest price for Vassil Naydenov, the American rapper clared to these dangerous adversaries emigrating out of hopelessness; Serbia people, but especially young people, something new in Serbia next year: a with his government. means music, ly in the city centre, including art exhib- the traditional concert at the National an evening’s fun is usually around €70. NANA, Milenita, and others will perform. of Serbian dignity and safety: if you are ranks among the lowest in Europe for think politics and public works are to- real possibility of establishing debate And, in the end, Mr Vučić should lis- fireworks, food, its, ice-skating rinks and a Christmas fair. Theater in Sarajevo at 7pm. The program Among the parties fans of the club not with us you are against us. health care and education. tally corrupted and there is no space for and dialogue between the different ten his old friend, Serbian President Mr. Aside from official events, numerous contains waltz, march, polka, overtures TIRANA scene can choose between are the Me- That phrase has become the motto of So, the bravado and hubris that Mr. honest men in Serbian public life. stakeholders and interest groups to im- Tomislav Nikolić, when he said that Ser- and more music clubs, hotels and restaurants in Zagreb of Strauss, Rossini, Saint Saens, Sarasate, tropolis Hello 2016 party with Julian Mr. Vučić’s fight against corruption and Vucic displays at press conferences The chasm between what Mr. Vučić plement reforms in Serbia. bia does not need new parliamentary host celebrations with either live music Piazzolla, Molinelli. New year’s parties As Tirana elected a new mayor this Jewel (FR), WHYT NOYZ (UK) and the organized crime in Serbia. On the “cor- when speaking about himself-- claiming says during his constant media appear- We believe that Mr Vučić is aware of elections in 2016 until there are clear in city squares or DJs. will also be held in all the main clubs of year, the New Year eve will be celebrated Metropolis DJs from Bulgaria and the rupt” side are those who successfully to work 24/7 without sleeping and with- ances and real life in Serbia is becoming that. If he does not understand “real life” improvements in Serbian living condi- the city (Club monument, Cinema Sloga, with some changes compared with the New Year’s Eve celebration with Danny destroyed dialogue within the country out a vacation in the last three years— bigger and bigger. The Serbian people in Serbia, the least he can do is listen to tions. Mr. Nikolić better hope Santa is in- under the stars. SKOPJE Underground, Coloseum Club). previous years. For the first time in the Howells in the cult house club Yalta. because they did not praise his efforts. does little to motivate others when solu- are realizing that this government has his “friends from the West”: protection cluding a little something in that big bag The main city of Republika Srpska, Albanian capital, the mayor and the citi- If you don’t fancy big parties, you can He accused the former ruling party tions to the very real problems of their only accomplished one thing: chang- and practicing essential human free- for him if he wants to run for a second For a third year running, thanks to po- Banja Luka, has already published the zens will do the traditional 'countdown' always have a quick drive to the nearby Democrats that it left the country in lives are nowhere to be found. ing the middleman who collects the doms are the foundation of democratic presidential term in 2017. BIRN Team litical feuds in Skopje, partygoers in the program for the official New Year’s Eve in the 'Mother Teresa' square while wait- Vitosha mountain, where you can have ruins, screwed up the privatization pro- The sporadic success of Serbian sport, money. country, as well a requirement for a And finally, hopefully there is a French Macedonian capital can choose between concert celebration. The festivities start at ing the New Year. Fireworks will take a glass of champagne while watching the cess and made members rich people by most notably Novak Đokovic, occasion- That gap is something that Mr Vučić strong and independent judiciary and Open win for Novak Djokovic in 2016. rom Zagreb to Tirana, two parallel New Year's Eve celebrations 7pm and last until 1:30am in the city main place after that. fireworks over the city. stealing public funds. ally diminishes Serbian feelings of hope- should think about when he writes his economic growth. Santa, can you bring all of this? Balkan cities are hosting staged only meters apart from each other. square. The concert features Moondance, On the other hand, a concert with the open-air music festivals The first, and likely larger party of the Vanja Mišić, Nair and Slađana Zrnić. best names in Albanian music will go on BUCHAREST featuring regional and in- two is being hosted by the City of Skop- at the square in the night of December ternational stars to ring in je. The focus is on a traditional mix of lo- BUDVA 31st. Artists from Kosovo are also expect- With New Year just around the corner, the New Year. cal folk and pop artists appearing at the ed to perform. many people in Bucharest have already FSo, if you won’t be in Belgrade for the main Macedonia square. However, per- With a tradition of throwing big par- Throughout December, "Mother Tere- started arranging spectacular New New Year but still want to party, dress formers have been not announced yet. ties and concerts, Montenegro's resort sa" square is a center of holiday celebra- Year’s celebrations. warm and enjoy our list of celebration The second celebration will take of Budva is one of region’s favorite New tions not to be missed. People take pic- There are downtown street parties or- plans in other major Balkan cities. place at the nearby Jadran Square. Year’s spots. This year is no different: tures in front of the big Christmas tree, ganized by Bucharest City Hall, and most Although organizers Skopje’s Centar Budva plans to celebrate the start of 2016 drink warm mulled wine and ice skate in people go there at midnight to attend a ZAGREB municipality did not reveal the artists over five days with music, food and fun. the ice rink. live music concert and watch a fireworks planned to appear on stage either, the The programme kicks off on Decem- display. Zagreb’s main New Year's festivities party offers an alternative for those pre- ber 31st at 9.30pm at the square next SOFIA Others spend the time in one of the take place on the central Josip Jelačić ferring a more international selection to Budva’s Old Town with a show by many restaurants and hotels offering spe- Square under an open sky with fire- of rock n' roll performers. Montenegrin band Perper, while singer Sofia’s traditional New Year’s Eve con- cial programs or all-night parties for New works and music stages. This year’s The two parallel parties reflect a Zdravko Čolić will ring in the New Year cert “A Scene Under the Stars”, featuring Year’s Eve. Most are already booked up and celebration centers on Croatian musi- deep political rift that has sprung up with a midnight show. beloved Bulgarian artists and celebrities, offer live performances, food and drinks. cians, with pop singer Nina Badrić and between the city, led by mayor Koče On New Year’s Day, the tempo will be takes place at the main square Alexan- Visitors shouldn’t miss Bucha- rock band Vatra (Croatian for fire) ap- Trajanovski, and Centar municipality, quieter with classical music, courtesy of der I. Come early as the event attracts rest’s brilliant Christmas lights, lit up pearing alongside rising new Croatian which in 2013 elected a new opposition the Mediterranean Festival Orchestra. nearly 20,000 people every year. since December 1st . The breathtaking pop and rock bands. mayor, Andrej Zernovski,. During the evening, other musicians Popular pop singers Michaela Fileva, display cost about €2.3 million this year Music is everywhere. The pop group from the region will be performing, in- Orlin Pavlov, Divna and Preya, and hip hop and will be up until after the New Year. Detour will perform on European cluding Croatia’s Gibboni. star Billy the Kid top the line up this year. Square, while on Tomićeva Street, near SARAJEVO On January 2nd, locals and visitors have The program also includes traditional folk an old funicular, rock band Ljetno kino an opportunity to listen to another popu- music, dances and fireworks. The concert (Croatian for open-air summer cinema) The details of the New Year’s Eve pro- lar regional performer, Viva Vox choir. starts at 10pm on 31st December and ends performs their hits.In nearby Zrinjevac gram for Sarajevo are still unknown, as They will be kicking off on stage at 11pm. after 1.20am on st1 January 2016. Sven Milekić, Siniša Jakov Marušić, Park, the central pavilion will host clas- the city is struggling with a difficult- fi If you are not a fan of such outdoor The National Palace of Culture is host- Rodolfo Toe, Dušica Tomović, Fatjona sic rock band Zocioni and the pop band nancial situation. Town administration activities, see the old year out and the ing an annual New Year’s celebration Medini, Maria Cheresheva and Marian All Stars and Tena. has confirmed that there will be a public New Year in at one of Budva’s many recreating the atmosphere of three of the Chiriac contributed to this text. 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Wednesday, December 23 - Thursday, January 21, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Wednesday, December 23 - Thursday, January 21, 2016 11 FESTIVE GUIDE WHITE CITY CHRISTMAS

New Why are Serbs Belgraders’ Celebrating New Year’s survival ‘hooked’ on New Year’s wishes Year’s Eve in Serbia guide New Year’s The last days now looks more like a flea market than a central city street.” You’ve checked Eve? of December Belgrade Insight are ticking off for the best New Serbs adore New Year’s Eve more the calendar Year’s parties st and you are now than any other holiday, a love born and January 1 is almost here. ready to party! out communism decades ago. GANE (58), a cab driver Time to get your This taxi driver doesn’t have many Here is our guide BILJANA (27), research assistant, plans for the coming year – what to everything thinking caps Belgrade School of Medicine happens, happens. But he does have f you have spent time in unite under one common identity. For Biljana, 2015 was a year of chal- wishes, not just for himself but for you’ll need to Serbia, then you noticed how Allowing religious differences and on and sharpen lenges and accomplishing new goals. other people too. vibrant and joyful we are right sentiments to flourish could be risky, But she promises to be more tenacious “Health is what we need, and more make those before December 31st. Unlike they reasoned. The Communists were those pencils for in 2016. money of course! I hope everything holiday meals, other people, we don’t really afraid that celebrating religious holi- “More persistant in expressing my here in Serbia will be a bit better – I buy gifts for each other on days could trigger separatist strife. your New Year’s generation’s attitudes, more persistent hope people will work more, earn Christmas.I Rather, our gift giving hap- In the immediate post-war period, in the fight for development of science more and use cabs more,” Gane said buy last-minute pens on New Year’s Eve. Yugoslav leader Josip Broz Tito resolutions. in this infertile ground…more persistent as he started the engine, preparing for gifts and find Indeed, you will seldom hear any- sent Yuletide wishes, but from 1947 in my maintaining of my rich social life another patrol of Belgrade streets. one in Serbia saying “What did you onwards Christmas ceased to be men- We talked to despite ever-growing business commit- hangover cures. get for Christmas”; instead, “What did tioned in public. Suddenly, New Year’s ments,“ she said. you get for New Year” is much more Eve became more important than But that’s not all: Biljana also prom- common. Christmas as a national celebration. In Belgraders about ised to be more steadfast in love and It doesn’t mean Serbs don’t like or a symbolic shift, Yugoslav leadership more resolute in her decision to stay in celebrate Christmas and Christmas quietly banned the sale of gifts at their hopes and Serbia– unlike the vast majority of her Eve. Rather, for decades we were Christmas. fellow doctors. taught to revere New Years as a much Nevertheless, the people of Yugosla- resolutions for more significant and popular event. via still needed someone to deliver But why the emphasis of New Year’s their end-of-year gifts, and Deda Mraz 2016. over Christmas in Serbia? was imported from the USSR as the Well, this needs a bit of explaining New Year’s Eve gift-giver. and is rooted in Serbia’s complicated The Yugoslav communists history. embraced the idea of Deda Mraz, In 19th century Serbia the most im- crafting him into a symbol uniting all DINA (25), an intern at a lawyer’s office portant holiday was Orthodox Christ- Yugoslavs, regardless of their ethnic Dina graduated recently from the ost shops mas. The Serbian version of Santa or religious orientation, when they Law School and is now an intern at and mar- Claus was called Božić Bata, or Brother celebrated the New Year. a lawyers’ office. She admits she has kets are Christmas. Božić Bata travelled the Deda Mraz was a hit and his plenty of New Year’s resolutions and open until country on Christmas Eve deliver- popularity steadily grew for decades. hopes at least some of them will come 6pm on ing presents to the children who had Generations of Yugoslavs grew up cel- ŽIVOTA (79), pensioner true. December behaved well in the past year. ebrating the arrival of New Year’s with Života has been taking long walks at “It is high time I spent less time M31st, and on Serbian Orthodox When the Communists took over Deda Mraz’ arrival and haven’t wanted MIRJANA (62), street vendor Kalemegdan Park ever since he retired staring at my cell phone, not listen to Christmas Eve, January 6th. Yugoslavia after WWII they replaced to give him up. Even after the bloody Her biggest plan for 2016 is to finally 22 years ago – even on hazy, cold De- Serbian folk music too much and wash Expect everything to be closed Božić Bata with a secular rival, Russia’s break-up of the former Yugoslavia, quit her job selling handmade knitting cember afternoons. my car more often. I also want to stop on January 1st and 7th. Deda Mraz (Grandfather Frost) in an people stayed loyal to Grandpa Frost on Knez Mihailova Street after several “I have nine children, and all I want being astonished at how time flies and While most shops are closed attempt to abandon specifically Chris- and were not keen on trading him in decades. from this new year is that they live well to stop measuring it with seconds, on January the 1st, some may tian traditions and strengthen cultural for someone else. “I have serious health issues and I and are happy. When it comes to me – I minutes, hours and to start measuring work from 8am until noon on ties with the Soviet Union. That loyalty has translated into decided that from January on, I won’t am totally fine like this,“ the old man it with my successes and endeavors,“ January the 2nd. Božić Bata, a truly Serbian Ortho- tradition. Decades after the end of be on the streets any more. I also have said laughing. Dina said. Ušće Shopping Centre is open dox character, was no longer welcome communism, Serbs are still dedicated to quit knitting,” As for his own New Year’s resolu- But when it comes to the wishes for Belgrade starts celebrating on December 29th. Photo: Beta until 6pm on December 31st and in a country comprised of different both to Deda Mraz and New Year’s Mirjana has two wishes for the tions, Života pledged to continue his the coming year, Dina is quite work- on January the 6th. The shopping nationalities and religions, which the Eve, while Christmas comes second- coming year- health for herself and her Kalemegdan walking tours and long oriented. “I would like to remember centre will be closed on January Communist leadership wanted to ranked. family, and fewer resellers in the down- chess games with his mates as long as 2016 as the year I started my career as Serbia’s largest Filip AVRAMOVIĆ sector, raked in €17 million. Our aim is on Freedom Square in Novi Sad on New the 1st and the 7th. town streets, as “my Knez Mihailova he can. a lawyer,” Dina said. to prolong the stay of tourists and bring Year’s Eve, followed by the band Van Delta City Shopping Centre is cities are elgrade starts celebrat- in more profits for hotels, restaurants Gogh. open until 11pm on December ing early this year. Start- and the city,” Vesić told Serbian media. In addition to the two iconic bands, the 25th and 26th. Like Ušće, Delta hosting annual ing on December 29th, January 13th is a major holiday in Bel- Love Hunters are appearing along- City is open until 6pm on De- the city hosts four days grade and Serbia and marks the begin- side rising all-girl band Štikle i Vikleri. cember the 31st and January the of concerts in front the ning of the Serbian Orthodox Church A 50-member Rock Symphony from 6th, but closed January 1st and 7th. New Year’s National Assembly. New Year according to the Julian cal- Banja Luka bring their unique blend of Most pharmacies are closed BOn December 29th, the band Mili- endar. rock instruments, choir and orchestra but the following on-duty phar- celebrations gram kicks off the festivities, followed Although authorities haven’t yet to the party. macies will be working round by performances on December 30th by published lineup or locations of the Throughout the day and well into the the clock: Sveti Sava at Neman- on main the band Van Gogh and Serbian pop Serbian New Year celebrations, almost night DJ’s will be spinning for electronic jina street 2, Prvi Maj at Kralja star Željko Joksimović. every club in the city will organize its music lovers in front of the Catholic port. Milana 9, Bogdan Vujošević at squares with Belgrade visitors can greet the New own celebration. Goce Delčeva 30 and Zemun at Year with a concert by folk superstar Mikser House will host Nenad Mr. NIŠ Glavna 34. performances Lepa Brena as well as a concert by actor Swagger along with the band Atomsko Petrol stations Lukoil and Steven Seagal’s Blues Band. Tropico is skloniste. Ticket price is around €9. For New Year’s celebrations in Niš, Gazprom in Belgrade are open by numerous also set to play on New Year’s Eve. With a cover charge of only €1, expect three stages will host a number of non-stop during the holidays. For those who still haven’t par- DJ Miss Millie’s set at Club Peron to be bands and DJ sets. The Main post office at Tako- singers, bands tied hard enough, one of Serbia’s crowded and intense. In the city center, legendary Serbian vska 2 will be opened round the most famous singers, Svetlana Ceca Splav Jimmy will be home to folk band Kerber will perform for fans of clock during the holidays as well. and DJ sets. Ražnatović, will perform on New Year’s music fans. Dejan Matić is perform- Serbian rock music, while lovers of folk Emergency rooms at VMA, Day. ing and the ticket price will be €15, al- music can make their way to the Saint Military Medical Academy at Goran Vesić, President of the board though seat reservations range from Sava park where Saita is set to perform. Banjica, and the Klinički Centar for organizing New Year’s celebrations, €10 to €300. DJ’s are playing at the amphitheater Beograd at Autokomanda are said that the city managed to “organize on the jetty for techno fans. open 24 hours a day. The emer- a spectacular celebration and will bring NOVI SAD On the Palilula ramp, after Santa gency rooms will refer anyone more tourists than last year”. hands out gifts to children, bands Prava needing long-term care to one of “Last year we attracted 16,000 peo- One of Serbia’s most influential Stvar and La Kampanela are set to per- the on-call hospitals. ple and the city, as well as the private bands, the Partibrejkers, is set to play form, along with a trumpet band. 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Wednesday, December 23 - Thursday, January 21, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Wednesday, December 23 - Thursday, January 21, 2016 13 FESTIVE GUIDE WHITE CITY CHRISTMAS

CLUBBING THEATRE, CLASSICAL AND LIVE MUSIC AND EXHIBITIONS

WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 23rd • Marko Louis, Monsun, • Rain Dogs, Akademija 28, • R&B and House Night, • Back to the Future, WEDNESDAY rd Travnička 3, 11pm Nemanjina 28, 10pm Beton, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Plastic, Takovska 36, 11pm DECEMBER 23 • Film: Hannah and Her Sisters • Operetta: Die Fledermaus, (Allen), Yugoslav Cinetheque, The National Theatre, Francuska • Girls Gonna Get Wild, Mr • BIK with Philip Gorbachev, • Holy Friday, Mr Stefan • Time Machine, Tilt, • Woman from Sarajevo Uzun Mirkova 1, 6pm 1, 7:30pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Drugstore, Bulevar Despota SUNDAY DECEMBER 27th Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Karađorđeva 2, 11pm TRATTORIA (Andrić), Yugoslav Drama • Pesničenje Poetry Slam, Rex, FRIDAY JANUARY 1st 10pm Stefana 115, 11pm • Dado Fest (Nežni Dalibor, • R&B and House Night, PIZZERIA Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm Jevrejska 16, 8pm • From Disco to Disco, Tranzit • DJ Lacosta and Daniel • R&B Night, Cinema, ŽeneKese, Moussaka, Beton, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm • Film: Zelig (Allen), Yugoslav • Film: Bullets over Broadway • The Street of Open Heart, Bar, Braće Krsmanović 8, Cerhanov, Tranzit Bar, Braće Gračanička 18, 11pm Ramomci, Izdrži Ribice), • Holy Friday, Mr Stefan Cinetheque, Uzun Mirkova 1, (Allen), Yugoslav Cinetheque, various locations at Belgrade 10pm Krsmanović 8, 11pm • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan KC Grad, Braće Krsmanović Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm 6pm Uzun Mirkova 1, 8:30pm City Center, from 10am • Djans Party, KST, Bulevar • DJ Night, Savanova, Savsko Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Nebojsina 8 4, 9.30pm • Selection of short Norwegian • Opera: The Magic Flute, The Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm Šetalište bb, 11pm • Magic Bush, Bašta, 011/3863-999 SATURDAY JANUARY 16th films, Leila, Kralja Petra 41, National Theatre, Francuska 1, FRIDAY JANUARY 3rd • Neno Belan and Fiumens, • Back to the Future, Plastic, Karađorđeva 43, 9pm [email protected] SATURDAY JANUARY 9th 6:30pm 7:30pm Mikser House, Karađorđeva Takovska 36, 11pm • Summer Sombre, Ben Akiba, www.restoranamici.rs • Get Low DJ Architect, • Students of the violin, Music • The New Year’s Concert, Ilija M. 46, 9pm • Time Machine, Tilt, Braće Krsmanović 6, 10pm • Pleiadians, Imago CUK, Underground, Pariska 1, Academy, Ilija M. Kolarac SUNDAY DECEMBER 27th Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Dečanska 14, 11pm 11pm Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, Trg 5, 12pm THURSDAY DECEMBER 24th • R&B and House Night, MONDAY DECEMBER 28th • Get Low DJ Architect, • DJs Dooshan, Lady Dee, 6pm • Death and the Dervish th Beton, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Underground, Pariska 1, Brankow, Crnogorska 12, • Opera: La Traviata, The (Selimović), The National MONDAY JANUARY 4 • R&B Thursday Delight, • Holy Friday, Mr Stefan • Beautiful Monday, Mr. • New Year in da House – Karađorđeva 23, 10pm 11pm 11pm National Theatre, Francuska 1, Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm 7:30pm • Some Like It Hot (Stone, • Benefit concert for children, Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, two stages, 15 performers, • Ladies Night, Brit’n’Bass, KST, • DJs Dooshan, Lady Dee, • DJ Prema, Industrija Bar, Merrill, Bricuse), Terazije The National Theatre, Francuska • Get Ready For Vandalism, • The Bestbeat, Dom 11pm official afterparty, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, Brankow, Crnogorska 12, Karađorđeva 23, 10pm THURSDAY DECEMBER 24th Theatre, Terazije 27, 8pm 1, 8pm Underground, Pariska 1, 11pm Omladine, Makedonska 22, • Nikola Vranjković, Gun Treehouse, Botićeva 1, 11pm 10pm 11pm • Disco House, Beton, • New Year’s Kids Market, • For Old Times Sake, Tranzit 9pm Club, Miloša Pocerca 10, 10pm • Stargate 15 – Melicia Live • Mikser New Year’s Fest: • Disco House, Beton, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm • A Streetcar Named Desire Mikser, Karađorđeva 46, 11am TUESDAY JANUARY 5th Bar, Braće Krsmanović 8, • Eyesburn, Gun Club, Miloša and Pixel, Kolos boat on Sava Riblja Čorba, Texas Flood, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm • Mirko and Meex, Tilt, (Williams), Zvezdara Teatar, • 40 Years of Rocky Horror th 10pm Pocerca 10, 10pm TUESDAY DECEMBER 29 river, 11pm Mikser, Karađorđeva 46, • Mirko and Meex, Tilt, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Milana Rakića 38, 8pm Picture Show – film, lecture • Operetta: Die Fledermaus, • Dj Gru and DJ Playa, Mr. • The New Year’s Americana • Jens and Karlo play hits 9pm Karađorđeva 2, 11pm • DJ John Belk and Miloš • Zorba the Greek and cosplay, The Museum of The National Theatre, Francuska Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, concert, Grad Cultural • Dizel Party, Mr Stefan Braun, from vinyl, Fest, Gradski Park • Belgrade Dixieland • DJ John Belk and Miloš Starčević, Tranzit Bar, (Kazantsakis), Terazije Theatre, Yugoslav Cinetheque, Kosovska 1, 7:30pm 11pm Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, Nemanjina 4, 11pm 1, Zemun, 10pm Orchestra, Bašta, Starčević, Tranzit Bar, Braće Krsmanović 8, 10pm Terazije 27, 8pm 11, 5pm • DJ Oysha, Industrija Bar, 10pm • Nineties Night, Tilt, • Jovan Maljoković Sextet, Karađorđeva 43, 9pm Braće Krsmanović 8, 10pm • DJ Groovyman and Me • Exhibition: Russian Avant- • Libercuatro, Ilija M. Kolarac SUNDAY JANUARY 10th Karađorđeva 23, 10pm Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Bašta, Karađorđeva 43, 9pm • DJ Groovyman and Me High Low, Drugstore Play, garde in Belgrade, The Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, • Jelena Petošević, Grad SATURDAY DECEMBER 26th • Mikser New Year’s Fest: The • Željko Joksimović, Hari SUNDAY JANUARY 3rd High Low, Drugstore Play, boat on Sava river, 11pm Museum of Yugoslav History, 11am • European Waterpolo Botićeva 3, 1pm , various Cultural Centre, Braće Great Salsa Party, Mikser, Mata Hari, Trg Republike, boat on Sava river, 11pm • Saturday Night Fever, Mr • Italian opera stars: Amarilli Championship nd • The Great New Year’s Nizza, Rosanda Rinaldi, locations, from 9am Krsmanović 4, 9pm • 42 KST Costume Karađorđeva 46, 9pm 9pm • R&B Night, Cinema, • Saturday Night Fever, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina Giveaway, Mikser, Karađorđeva Lorenzo Decaro, Stefano Meo, • Flauto Dolce, Ilija M. Kolarac • Hornsman Coyote, Danguba, Party, KST, Bulevar Kralja • Naš Način acoustic band, • Irie Fm, Zemlja Gruva, Gračanička 18, 11pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm 46, 2pm RTS Symphonic Orchestra Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, Čirila i Metofija 2, 10pm Aleksandra 73, 10pm Konoba Akustik, Cara Dušana , Kluz , Mr Stefan 4, 11pm Acoustic Strings • Sunday Beat • Exhibition: Box, Little Box, and Choir, Ilija M. Kolarac 11am • Nikola Vranjković, Gun • Idemo na Mars, Drugstore, 13, 10pm SUNDAY JANUARY 17th Department Store, Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Singidunum Gallery, Knez Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, Club, Miloša Pocerca 10, 10pm Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, • Baby Blue, Grad Cultural SUNDAY JANUARY 10th Masarikova 4, 9pm Mihajlova 40, 7pm 8pm WEDNESDAY JANUARY 13th • Lady Jelena and Hipnagoga 11pm Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, • R&B Night, Cinema, • Amaro Del, Ciglana, Višnjička MONDAY JANUARY 4th • Ballet: The Nutcracker, The Slike, Grad Cultural Centre, • Boža Podunavac, Speedy, 10pm • R&B Night, Cinema, Gračanička 18, 11pm Banja bb, 10pm National Theatre, Francuska 1, MONDAY DECEMBER 28th • The New Year’s Gala Concert, Braće Krsmanović 4, 10pm Phil &Dansmore, Monsun, Gračanička 18, 11pm • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan • DJ Mooka, Ike and Prema, 7:30pm The National Theatre, Francuska th Travnička 3, 11pm WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 30 • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm th FRIDAY JANUARY 1st Tilt, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm • Lisinski Music School • Exhibition: 120 Anniversary 1, 8pm FRIDAY DECEMBER 25th • White Lunar Night, Imago Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Beautiful Monday, Mr. Concert, Ilija M. Kolarac of the discovery of film, CUK, Dečanska 14, 11pm • Girls Gonna Get Wild, Mr MONDAY JANUARY 18th th • Hernan Cataneo, Magacin Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, Yugoslav Cinetheque, Uzun THURSDAY JANUARY 14 • Liminal v3, Jazz Bar Centar, • Get Low DJ Architect, Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, MONDAY JANUARY 11th 8pm Mirkova 1, 8:30pm Depo, Travnička 3, 11pm 11pm Knez Mihajlova 6, 11 Underground, Pariska 1, 11pm 11pm • DJ Mooka, Ike and • Operetta: Die Fledermaus, • St. Michael’s Cathedral • New Year In Da House • DJs Dooshan, Lady Dee, • Djans Party, KST, Bulevar • DJ Mooka, Ike and Prema, Prema, Tilt, Karađorđeva FRIDAY DECEMBER 25th The National Theatre, Francuska Concert, The National Theatre, Afterparty, Three Dots Party TUESDAY JANUARY 5th Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm Tilt, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm 2, 11pm 1, 8:30pm Francuska 1, 8pm Factory, Dr. Milutina Ivkovica • DJ Prema, Industrija Bar, • Mikser New Year’s Fest: • Beautiful Monday, Mr. • Beautiful Monday, Mr. • Antigone (Sophocles), The 2, from 5am • Dizel Party, Mr Stefan Braun, th th Karađorđeva 23, 10pm Who See, Stereo Banana, Stefan Braun, Nemanjina Stefan Braun, Nemanjina National Theatre, Francuska 1, TUESDAY DECEMBER 29 FRIDAY JANUARY 15 • Dino Psaras, Underground, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Disco House, Beton, Iskaz, Mikser House, 4, 11pm 4, 11pm 7:30pm Pariska 1, 11pm , Tilt, Karađorđeva 2, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Karađorđeva 46, 9pm • Nineties • Macbeth (Ionesco), Atelje 212, • The Possessed (Dostoevsky), • Belgrade Philharmonic • Sweet Tea DJs, Tijuana boat 11pm Svetogorska 21, 8pm The National Theatre, Francuska Orchestra with Srboljub • Mirko and Meex, Tilt, TUESDAY JANUARY 12th TUESDAY JANUARY 19th on Sava river, 11pm • Prah (Spiro), The National 1, 8:30pm Dinić – conductor and Tijana Karađorđeva 2, 11pm THURSDAY DECEMBER 31st , Mr Stefan WEDNESDAY th Theatre, Francuska 1, 8pm • The Lonesome West Milošević – violin, Ilija M. • DJ John Belk and Miloš • NYE reprise JANUARY 6 • Dizel Party, Mr Stefan • Dizel Party, Mr Stefan FREE COPY • Takeaway Fashion, Grad (McDonagh), Belgrade Drama Kolarac Endowment, Studentski , Tranzit Bar, Braće , Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Starčević • ExKLUZive Belgrade Party Cultural Centre, Braće Theatre, Mileševska 64, 8:30pm Trg 5, 8pm • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, • Girls Gonna Get Wild, Mr Krsmanović 8, 10pm Kluz Department Store, • Nineties, Tilt, Karađorđeva • Nineties, Tilt, Karađorđeva Krsmanovic 4, 5pm • Film: Wuthering Heights Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, • DJ Groovyman and Me Masarikova 4, 10pm 2, 11pm 2, 11pm • Film: Nousukausi, Leila, Kralja (Wyler), The Museum of SATURDAY JANUARY 16th Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. 10pm 11pm High Low, Drugstore Play, • Kristijan Molnar, Tijana T, Petra 41, 6:30pm Yugoslav Cinetheque, Kosovska Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade boat on Sava river, 11pm Filip Xavi…Drugstore, Bulevar • Mikser New Year’s Fest: WEDNESDAY WEDNESDAY • Philharmonic Circus - 11, 6pm • Festival of Epic Fantasy, th Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 • Saturday Night Fever, Mr Despota Stefana 115, 10pm Orthodox Celts, Mikser, THURSDAY JANUARY 7 JANUARY 13th JANUARY 20th Belgrade Philharmonic • Ballet: The Nutcracker, The Mikser, Karađorđeva 46, 2pm Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, • CDE New Years Eve, Karađorđeva 46, 9pm Orchestra with David National Theatre, Francuska 1, BIRN editorial team: 11pm Magacin Depo, Travnička 3, • Anđelka Simić and Band • FESRAM Moleban Party, • Girls Gonna Get Wild, Mr • Girls Gonna Get Wild, Mr Levi – conductor and Nada 7:30pm SUNDAY JANUARY 17th Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, • Last Chance to Dance: 11pm 9, Bašta, Karađorđeva 43, Monsun, Travnička 3, 11pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina Stefan Braun, Nemanjina Kolundžija – piano, Ilija M. 9pm , Kolarac Endowment, Studentski WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 30th • Piano duo Jelica Gligorijević [email protected] Tea Break, The Bridge, • Vatra 2016 NYE Special, • R&B Thursday Delight 4, 11pm 4, 11pm Monsun, Travnička 3, 11pm • Straight Mickey and the Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm Trg 5, 8pm and Natalija Mladenović, Sales & Marketing: Marija Petrović First Flame, Replicunts, Suffering’s The Price, Cigla • New Sun Year Trip, Sioux, Boys, Mnjenje, Gun Club, • 1 on 1 Sexy & Sweet, Tilt, THURSDAY JANUARY 14th THURSDAY • The Sunset Limited Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Phone: +381 11 4030 302 SATURDAY th Zvezdara Theatre, Studentski Trg 5, 11am in d Vugla, Dom Omladine, Skadarska 40, 11pm Miloša Pocerca 10, 10pm Karađorđeva 2, 11pm JANUARY 21st DECEMBER 26 (McCarthy), [email protected] Milana Rakića 38, 8pm Makedonska 22, 7pm • New Year’s Flyover, Tranzit • DJ Oysha, Industrija Bar, • R&B Thursday Delight, • Nora! (Jelinek), Yugoslav • Film: Deconstructing Harry THURSDAY JANUARY 21st Subscription & Distribution: • Električni Orgazam, Dom Bar, Braće Krsmanović 8, 11pm SATURDAY JANUARY 2nd Karađorđeva 23, 10pm Brankow, Crnogorska 12, • R&B Thursday Delight, Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, (Allen), Yugoslav Cinetheque, Goran Knezevic Omladine, Makedonska 22, • Love Revolution, Mikser, 11pm Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 8pm Uzun Mirkova 1, 6pm • Belgrade Philharmonic +381 11 4030 303 9pm Karađorđeva 46, 11pm th , Tilt, 11pm • Vibes Party, Grad Cultural FRIDAY JANUARY 8 • 1 on 1 Sexy & Sweet • Harold and Maude (Higgins), • Film: Hollywood Ending Orchestra chamber concert [email protected] • Struka and Reksona • New Years Rave: Kid Kimi, Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm • 1 on 1 Sexy & Sweet, Tilt, Belgrade Drama Theatre, (Allen), Yugoslav Cinetheque, under artistic leadership of Printing: POLITIKA štamparija d.o.o. Totalna Kontrola live, Danijel Cehranov, Vuk 11pm • DJ Night, Savanova, Savsko • DJ Oysha, Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Mileševska 64, 8pm Uzun Mirkova 1, 8:30pm Jan Fredrik Christiansen, ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight Božidarac, Radoslava Grujića Smiljanić, Zwein, John • Saturday Night Fever, Mr Šetalište bb, 11pm Karađorđeva 23, 10pm • DJ Oysha, Industrija Bar, • Marriage (Gogol), The National • Remembering prof. Salon of the Philharmony, , Alternativa, The Tube, Karađorđeva 23, 10pm COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 • Misko Plavi ft. Vasil and Belk Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, • Back to the Future, Plastic, Theatre, Francuska 1, 8:30pm Srđan Grbić Ilija M. Kolarac Studentski Trg 11, 7pm Johnny, Grad Cultural Simina 21, 11pm FRIDAY JANUARY 15th • Marčelo and Napeti • Photo market, Mikser, Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, Circulation: 4,000 11pm Takovska 36, 11pm Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, • New Year’s Party, Tijuana, • Hip-Hop and R’n’B by • Time Machine, Tilt, • DJ Night, Savanova, Kvintet, BitefArtCafe, Karađorđeva 46, 2pm 6pm 10pm boat on Sava river, 11pm DJ Prema, Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Savsko Šetalište bb, 11pm Mitropolita Petra 8, 9pm 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Wednesday, December 23 - Thursday, January 21, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Wednesday, December 23 - Thursday, January 21, 2016 15 FESTIVE GUIDE WHITE CITY CHRISTMAS Serbia in a suitcase

Rakija Photo: BIRN Ajvar Photo: Flickr/Vasile Cotovanu

Looking for quite like the bracing taste of rakija. with or without eggplant. You can buy rakija everywhere, Avjar is widely available but be uniquely Serbian from grocery stores to kiosks, but if you aware that the price and quality of really want an authentic taste of Serbia, mass-produced versions vary widely. gifts to take home find a home-brewed version. The best versions come homemade from sellers at Belgrade’s many out- for the holidays RATLUK door green markets. without resorting Ratluk – or Turkish delight – isn’t WOOLLEN SOCKS originally Serbian, but Arabic. Howev- to touristy er, Serbia has proudly made the sugary, Bring home some warmth for jelled dessert it’s very own. Ratluk the cold holiday season with these baubles? Here’s comes in a tasty variety of flavors: traditional hand-knitted socks. Part of Interior design of amBar. Photo: ambarrestaurant.com vanilla, rose, almond, pistachios, lemon a centuries-long tradition of Serbian our list of gift ideas or orange. handicraft, the thick, yellow socks are The bite-sized ratluk are traditionally a warm replacement for slippers and a offering a taste of served with thick, strong black coffee, unique gift idea. and are best nibbled and savoured Browse for them at small stands dur- Ratluk Photo: Flickr/ Edward Kimber Serbia to be found slowly. ing a long stroll through Knez Mihailo- You can find mass-produced va and Kalamedgan. Tourist shops The culinary year in review right in Belgrade. ratluk in every supermarket across and organizations often offer woollen Serbia. But for a truly original ver- socks for sale. They can also be found sion, visit Bombondžija Bosiljčić, online. But for the real experience, 2015 has seen a Ivana NIKOLIĆ This model- Serbian cuisine with re- tries’ such as Italy, France and Austria,” Belgrade’s last shop hand-making visit crafters in villages in the Serbian gional influence- is successful because according to Golicin. BELGRADE DINING here are many singu- ratluk. Bombondžija Bosiljčić is on mountains. significant rise THE YEAR IN it caters to a generation of Belgraders It’s challenging to find rarer, older HIGHLIGHTS IN 2015: larly Serbian products Karađorđeva Street and offers a variety CUISINE ACCORDING TO who grew up in a blended Yugoslavia. vintages in Belgrade restaurants and to take home as holiday of ratluk gift boxes. TRADITIONAL COSTUME in diners and DUDA&VLADA But, Duda&Vlada argue that in 2015 for Golicin, table service still leaves a lot Sheer happiness of Sugar and Spice gifts for your loved the overall dining scene in Belgrade to be desired. SUGAR AND SPICE, ones without breaking ‘TURKISH’ COFFEE The most famous piece of Serbia’s culinary options It’s been a busy year for our food mostly followed Western Europe All in all, while wine offerings in Bel- Address: Bulevar Nikole Tesle 3 the bank. national costume is the šajkača, critic duo, Duda&Vlada, and it’s hard trends, especially in restaurant presen- grade have seen some minor improve- Ossobuco in Terminal TSo when leaving, don’t forget some Another famous Serbian beverage a peaked cap traditionally worn by for them to pick just one outstand- tation and food preparation. ments, in the end, not much changed in Terminal Address: Bore Stankovića 17 in the Serbian of Serbia’s well-known-and not-so- with Ottoman origins is Turkish or men in the Serbian countryside. Usu- ing theme but they offered a few big- “For some time now, the menus are 2015. However, Golicin doesn’t blame Ice lab, a dessert from Radisson Blu Old Mill well-known-domestic food, drinks and domestic coffee. If you’ve spent any ally made of soft, homemade cloth, capital – but our picture thoughts on Belgrade’s dining getting shorter and seasonally-ori- solely restaurants’ owners, managers, RADISSON BLU OLD MILL clothing. time in Serbia, you’ll recognize strong, šajkača are typically black or grey. scene in 2015. “This year, lots of new ented while the focus is on fresh local sommeliers and distributers. Address: Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 15 From rakija, a traditional fruit bitterly unique taste of the boiled, Although sometimes identified with food and wine restaurants opened in Belgrade, so we products,” they say. “Apart from restaurant offerings, Bel- Interior design of amBar plus kajmak brandy, to ajvar, a seasonal pepper unfiltered coffee. nationalist politics, these caps are a have mostly focused on those nov- Belgrade’s restaurants’ design scene grade’s wine scene also needs higher, with hazelnuts and boletus mushrooms spread, to thick woollen socks to lo- A perfect pairing with ratluk, Turkish symbol of Serbian pride and identity. experts argue elties in the restaurant’s scene,” say is flourishing. So-called design ‘with an more sophisticated demand and high- AMBAR, Address: Karađorđeva 2 cally designed ties, here’s our recom- coffee is available everywhere – from Like the traditional woollen socks, Duda&Vlada. edge’ is becoming more present in res- er [wine] education of consumers,” he Tableware from 1905 mendations for the best ways to take a gas stations and small kiosks to huge you can find šajkača in tourist shops Belgrade has a But, despite the fact that plenty of taurant interiors, as well food presenta- concludes. 1905, Address: Karađorđeva 48 little bit of Serbia home. supermarkets and speciality coffee but the easiest, and most enjoyable new eateries launched in 2015, they tion and serving styles. stores. way, to shop for them are in kiosks or way to go before argue Belgrade’s dining landscape has RAKIJA While the best way to drink Turkish small stands along Knez Mihailova not changed much. THE YEAR IN SERBIAN WINE coffee is slowly in a smoky Belgrade Street and at Kalemegdan. becoming a true “We’ve seen more new places than ACCORDING TO BELGRADE ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ Every list of traditional Serbian café with friends, when taking it home new ideas and new concepts. Not many INSIGHT WINE CRITIC PAVLE ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” goods has to start with its most famous look for brands like Doncafe, Grand TIES new restaurant are offering ‘a whole GOLICIN ‘dining spot.’ RESTURANT KOVAČ alcoholic drink: rakija, a strong fruit Kafa or C Kafa. package’ starting from the location and modern ethno restaurant brandy. While it comes in dozens of Moving from the traditional to high interior design, food quality and ser- Like Duda&Vlada, our wine critic flavours, including quince, apricot, AJVAR fashion, handmade ties from Neven vice, to atmosphere,” they add. offers some broad thoughts on the Bel- cherry, honey and many more, the Vrgoč are perfect piece of uniquely One exceptional trend is showing grade wine scene. Belgrade has more most famous, šljivovica, is made of Ajvar is a must if you are sharing a Serbian high fashion. For almost forty promise: twists on traditional Balkan to offer to wine lovers than other cit- plum. taste of Serbia. Perhaps Serbia’s most years Vrgoč has handcrafted one-of cuisine gained momentum in 2015. ies in the region, argues Golicin. There Rakija is an essential part of every deservedly famous side dish, ajvar a-kind ties, bowties, belts, scarves and “In those new restaurants, we have a is a promising choice of foreign wines social occasion in Serbia, especially is creamy, smoky spread made with handkerchiefs for presidents, prime so-called modernized traditional cui- with lots of labels from throughout the when welcoming guests. Strong, even roasted peppers and eggplant, and ministers and celebrities. sine. That has been missing for years in ex-Yugoslav republics. Nevertheless bitter sometimes, there is nothing that can be eaten with every meal. You can The Neven tie shop is located down- our city’s cuisine and it is nice to see it has “Belgrade’s wine offerings are still miles Bulevar Oslobodjenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com says Serbian cuisine and social life choose extra spicy or mild and find it town at Cika Ljubina 15. Woollen socks Photo: BIRN finally kicked off,” Duda&Vlada observe. away from the more serious ‘vine coun- 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Wednesday, December 23 - Thursday, January 21, 2016 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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