City|Trip EXTRATIPPS

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City|Trip EXTRATIPPS Über den Senatsplatz flanieren Mit der Tram ins Jugendstilviertel Kunst unter dem Glaspalast Grandioser Ausblick vom Riesenrad inklusive WEB Lars Dörenmeier APP City|Trip EXTRATIPPS Z Günstige Unterkunft inmitten des Weltkulturerbes: das Hostel auf der Festungsinsel Suomenlinna S. 123 Z Speisen in historischen Mauern: im Katajanokan Kasino schmeckt es auch dem Hausgeist S. 64 Helsinki Z Stöbern nach Lust und Laune: auf dem Flohmarkt Hietalahti S. 41 Z Drinks in luftiger Höhe: in der Ateljee Bar, 70 m über der Stadt S. 72 Z Gemütliches Sightseeing: Stadtrundfahrt mit den Tramlinien 2 und 3 S. 43 Z Naturidylle inmitten der Großstadt: das Freilichtmuseum auf Seurasaari S. 34 Z Saunieren 4.0: die Löyly Sauna bringt eine uralte Tradition ins 21. Jahrhundert S. 116 Z Wenn Städte Geburtstag haben: am 12. Juni feiert ganz Helsinki S. 83 Z FKK-Schwimmen in prächtigem Ambiente: im klassizistischen Bad Yrjönkatu S. 116 Z Früher Torpedos und Minen, heute Natur und Meer: ein Besuch auf der Insel Vallisaari S. 53 mit großem City-Faltplan j Nördlich der Halbinsel Katajanokka (S. 22) P Erlebnis vor- liegen alte Windjammer und moderne Jachten schläge für einen fest vertäut Kurztrip, Seite 9 Viele EXTRATIPPS: Entdecken ++ Genießen ++ Shopping ++ Wohlfühlen ++ Staunen ++ Vergnügen ++ Lars Dörenmeier CITY|TRIP HELSINKI Nicht verpassen! Karte S. 3 Senatsplatz [D5] Kiasma – Museum für É Das klassizistische Gesamt­ Þ zeitgenössische Kunst [C4] ensemble des Senatsplatzes, des impo­ Das faszinierende Museum besticht sowohl santen Zentrums der Stadt, trägt die Hand­ durch seinen postmodernen Bau als auch schrift des deutsch­finnischen Architekten durch die spannenden Ausstellungen im Carl Ludwig Engel, der – wie am Baustil Innern (s. S. 27). unschwer zu erkennen – ein Studienfreund des „großen“ Schinkel war (s. S. 14). Felsenkirche [A4] â Das in den harten finnischen Fels Allas Sea Pool [E5] gesprengte Gotteshaus begeistert durch Ó Saunieren und schwimmen in seine erstklassige Akustik und eine ein­ der „guten Stube“ der Stadt: Im Südha­ malige Lichtstimmung aus Natur­ und fen lockt ein modernes Freibad mit unver­ Kunstlicht (s. S. 31). stelltem Blick auf die historischen Fassa­ den des Marktplatzes Wasserfreunde an Ullanlinna und Eira [C8] (s. S. 20). ï Die zwei benachbarten Viertel im Süden der Stadt gleichen einem innerstäd­ Uspenski-Kathedrale [E5] tischen Freilichtmuseum mit wunderbaren Ô Eine russisch­orthodoxe Kirche Jugendstilbauten (s. S. 43). mitten in einer westlichen Hauptstadt, die eine ganz eigene Atmosphäre verbreitet Festungsinsel und noch immer den Geist des Zarenrei­ ò Suomenlinna [fm] ches atmet (s. S. 21). Die historische Festung, die im Hafen von Helsinki auf fünf Inseln errichtet wurde, ist Hauptbahnhof Helsinki [C5] grüne Oase an der Ostsee und Freilicht­ Ù Dass funktionale Zweckbauten museum in einem (s. S. 47). auch architektonisch mehr als anspre­ chend sein können, beweist der von Eliel Saarinen entworfene Hauptbahnhof Leichte Orientierung mit (s. S. 24). dem cleveren Nummernsystem Die Sehenswürdigkeiten sind im Text und Kunstmuseum Amos Rex [C5] im Kartenmaterial mit derselben magenta- Ü Der neueste Museumsbau der farbenen ovalen Nummer É markiert. Alle Stadt bezaubert die Besucher durch die anderen Lokalitäten wie Geschäfte, Res­ perfekte Symbiose von mutiger Archi­ taurants usw. tragen ein Symbol und eine tektur und zeitgenössischen Exponaten fortlaufende rote Nummer (S1). Die Liste (s. S. 26). aller Orte befindet sich auf Seite 139, die Zeichenerklärung auf Seite 142. 2019_CT-Helsinki_25tsd_Vorspannkarte.pdf 1 14.02.2019 17:02:06 Helsinki auf einen Blick 0 6 km © REISE KNOW-HOW 2019 Nördlich der Innenstadt S. 33 Rechts und Kiasma Haupt- links der â bahnhof Manner- ÞÙ heimintie Felsenkirche Ü Senatsplatz Kunstmuseum É Rund um den S. 23 Amos Rex Ô Senatsplatz Allas Ó Uspenski- Sea Pool Kathedrale S. 14 s. Umschlag vorn Westlich und südlich ï der Innenstadt Ullanlinna S. 40 und Eira Festungsinsel Suomenlinna Entdeckungen mit ò dem Boot S. 46 Inhalt 7 Helsinki entdecken 8 Willkommen in Helsinki 9 Kurztrip nach Helsinki 11 Das gibt es nur in Helsinki 12 Helsinki Card 13 Stadtspaziergang 14 Rund um den Senatsplatz 14 É Senatsplatz (Senaatintori) *** [D5] 15 Ê Dom von Helsinki (Helsingin tuomiokirkko) *** [D5] 16 Ë Universität und Universitätsbibliothek ** [D5] 16 Ì Stadtmuseum Helsinki (Helsinginzkaupungin museo) ** [E5] 17 Í Havis-Amanda-Springbrunnen * [D5] 17 Î Esplanadenpark (Esplanadin puisto) ** [D5] 18 Ï Marktplatz (Kauppatori) *** [E5] 19 Ð Alte Markthalle (Vanha Kauppahalli) ** [D6] 19 Ñ Präsidentenpalais (Presidentinlinna) * [E5] j Der Dom von Helsinki Ê in strahlendem Weiß (Foto: 060hi-kw) 4 Inhalt 20 Ò SkyWheel ** [E6] 20 Ó Allas Sea Pool *** [E5] 21 Ô Uspenski-Kathedrale (Uspenskin katedraali) *** [E5] 22 Õ Eisbrecher-Pier (Merikasarmin laituri) * [G5] 22 Ö Halbinsel Katajanokka – Jugendstil im Osten ** [F5] 23 Rechts und links der Mannerheimintie 23 × Alte Kirche (Vanha kirkko) * [C6] 23 Ø Kaufhaus Stockmann * [C5] 24 Ù Helsinki Hauptbahnhof (Helsingin päärautatieasema) *** [C5] 25 Ú Nationalgalerie Ateneum (Ateneumin taidemuseo) ** [C5] 26 Û Finnisches Nationaltheater (Suomen Kansallisteatteri) * [C4] 26 Ü Kunstmuseum Amos Rex *** [C5] 27 Ý Mannerheim-Denkmal * [C4] 27 Þ Kiasma – Museum für zeitgenössische Kunst *** [C4] 28 Gustaf Mannerheim: Retter des Vaterlandes oder blutiger Baron? 30 Alvar Aalto, Architekt und Designer von Weltrang 30 ß Parlament (Eduskunta) * [B4] 30 à Konzerthaus Musiikkitalo ** [C4] 31 á Finlandia-Halle (Finlandiatalo) ** [B3] 31 â Felsenkirche (Temp peliaukion kirkko) *** [A4] 33 ã Friedhof Hietaniemi (Hietaniemen hautausmaa) * [bk] 33 Nördlich der Innenstadt 33 ä Sibelius-Park (Sibeliusken Puisto) * [cj] 34 å Freilichtmuseum Seurasaari ** [aj] 35 æ Finnische Nationaloper (Kansallisooppera) * [B2] 36 ç Olympiastadion * [B1] 37 è Städtischer Wintergarten (Helsingin kaupungin talvipuutarha) * [B1] 37 é Vergnügungspark Linnanmäki ** [C1] 38 ê Kallio-Kirche (Kallion kirkko) ** [D2] 39 Nokia – vom Gummistiefelproduzenten zum Weltkonzern 40 Westlich und südlich der Innenstadt 40 ë Kulturzentrum Kaapelitehdas ** [bl] 42 ì Deutsche Kirche (Saksalainen Kirkko) * [D6] 42 í Observatorium und Observatoriumshügel * [D7] 42 î Olympia-Terminal (Olympiaterminaali) * [E7] 43 ï Ullanlinna und Eira – Jugendstil im Süden *** [C8] 44 Das Vappu-Fest 45 ð Kaivopuisto-Park ** [E8] 46 Entdeckungen mit dem Boot 46 ñ Insel Pihlajasaari ** [cn] 47 ò Festungsinsel Suomenlinna *** [fm] 50 Die Geschichte einer Seefestung 53 ó Vallisaari und Kuninkaansaari * [fn] Inhalt 5 55 Helsinki erleben Zeichenerklärung 56 Helsinki für Kunst- und Museumsfreunde *** nicht verpassen 60 Helsinki für Genießer ** besonders sehenswert 62 Smoker’s Guide * wichtig für speziell 63 Alkoholverkauf im „Alko“ interessierte Besucher 71 Helsinki am Abend 76 Helsinki für Shoppingfans [A1] Planquadrat im Kartenma­ 79 Das Finnmesser: „puukko“ terial. Orte ohne diese Angabe lie­ 81 Helsinki zum Träumen und Entspannen gen außerhalb unserer Karten. Ihre 82 Zur richtigen Zeit am richtigen Ort Lage kann aber wie die von allen 83 Finnische Feiertage Orts marken mit hilfe der begleiten­ den Web­App angezeigt werden 87 Helsinki verstehen (s. S. 143). 88 Helsinki – ein Porträt Updates zum Buch 89 Von den Anfängen bis zur Gegenwart www.reise­know­how.de/ 92 Leben in der Stadt citytrip/helsinki19 93 Muttersprache Schwedisch, Pass finnisch: die Finnlandschweden Vorwahlen 96 Finnisches Design: µ für Finnland: 00358 zeitlose (Alltags-)Kunst µ für Helsinki: 09, 010, 020 97 Praktische Reisetipps 98 An- und Rückreise 117 Stadttouren 100 Autofahren 119 Telefonieren 101 Barrierefreies Reisen 119 Uhrzeit 102 Diplomatische Vertretungen 120 Unterkunft 102 Elektrizität 123 Verhaltenstipps 102 Geldfragen 124 Verkehrsmittel 103 Helsinki preiswert 127 Wetter und Reisezeit 104 Informationsquellen 106 Meine Literaturtipps 129 Anhang 107 Internet 107 Medizinische Versorgung 130 Kleine Sprachhilfe 109 Mit Kindern unterwegs Finnisch 110 Notfälle 134 Register 111 Infos für LGBT+ 138 Der Autor 112 Öffnungszeiten 138 Schreiben Sie uns 112 Post 138 Impressum 112 Radfahren 139 Liste der 114 Sicherheit Karteneinträge 114 Sport und Erholung 142 Zeichenerklärung 115 Die Macht des Löyly: 143 Helsinki mit PC, Saunieren in Finnland Smartphone & Co. 117 Sprache 144 Netzplan Die Schöne, die dem Meer ent- stieg und an Land sesshaft wurde: Helsinki. Eine bewegte Geschichte, auf der sich die Stadt nicht ausruht, charakterisiert die einzige finnische Metropole. Mit Siebenmeilenstiefeln schreitet sie mutig ins 21. Jahrhun- dert und überall in der Stadt wird künstlerisches, kulinarisches und sportliches Neuland betreten. Buntes Festival Das Flow Festival (s. S. 84) ist eine ungewöhnliche Veranstaltung: ein Festival mitten in der Stadt und nicht auf der grünen Wiese, urba- ne, post-industrielle Atmosphäre, Livebands und Lichtkunst, Gastro- nomie und Galerie – einfach finnisch bunt gemischt. Freibad im Hafen Mit unverstelltem Blick auf den zen- tralen Marktplatz und den Dom schwimmen – das kann man mit- ten in Helsinki. Der spektakuläre Allas Sea Pool im Herzen der Stadt bietet dieses einmalige Vergnügen (s. S. 20). Gastronomietipp Dort frühstücken, wo auch die hip- pen Hauptstädter den ersten Kaffee des Tages zu sich nehmen: Im San- dro (s. S. 67), im kreativen Stadt- teil Kallio gelegen, kann man zu mo- deraten Preisen speisen. Städtischer Nationalpark Nach Jahrzehnten der militärischen Nutzung wurde die Insel Vallisaari (s. S. 53) wieder für zivile Besu- cher geöffnet: ein grünes Kleinod
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