Design Thinking and Fast-Fashion
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Louisanne Folligné Design Thinking and Fast-Fashion Metropolia University of Applied Sciences BBA Degree Degree Program in European Business Administration Bachelor’s Thesis 29/04/2020 Abstract Author Louisanne Folligné Title Design Thinking and Fast-Fashion Number of Pages 55 pages + 6 appendices Date 26th April 2020 Degree Bachelor of Business Administration Degree Programme Degree Program in European Business Administration Instructor/Tutor Senior Mickaël Keaney This study is mainly theoretical and aims to see how Design Thinking can be improved when it is needed as a solution to the ecological challenges of the Fast-Fashion Industry. The interest of this study is to allow readers to better understand this revolutionary method stated earlier by the economist Herbert A. Simon in "The Science of Artificial" (1969) who was the first to consider Design Thinking as "a new way of thinking". In his book he refers to Design Thinking as "a way of solving problems that combines engineering and creativity". This method requires the ability to find a better balance between exploring and exploiting the innovation process. It aims to solve problems and create new products while changing the culture of the company. This study will place Design Thinking as a future solution for the Fast-Fashion Industry, which is experiencing major environmental problems and subject to many accusations from environmental parties and associations such as Greenpeace, WWF... The damage of mass consumption, manufacturing processes, factories relocations in Asia are becoming increasingly noticeable and governments, faced to the threat of natural disasters, are putting pressure on the Fast-Fashion Industry to move towards a more eco-responsible activity. Although these old techniques and product design processes have certainly allowed the fashion mastodons to grow up and consequently some economies to gain in power and value, it is time to "rethink the way we think". Through brainstorming, entertaining company seminars, reconfiguration of teams, roles and tasks, versatility of some jobs, role-playing and other methods, this thesis delivers an analysis of the universe of Fast-Fashion with concrete cases study of Design Thinking by entrepreneurs willing to work in an innovative way. The situations studied are those of the Bosch company adopting a new organization of posts, the LEGO company choosing to think collectively with all departments, thus adopting Abstract a free expression of communities of pirates, consumer organizations, developers, and designers. Finally, the IBM company initiates a constructive dialogue by forming 10-minute discussion groups that run for an hour and an insertion of the so-called "godfather end- user" who is supposed to demonstrate the failures of the product at each stage of design. Keywords Durability – Aesthetics – Sustainability – ethics – concrete - innovation - end-user-based – ideation – effectiveness - competitive advantage - risk-taking – experimentation - performance Contents 1 Introduction 1 2 Literature Review 3 2.1 Fast Fashion Industry (F.F) 3 2.1.1 What’s Fast-Fashion? 3 2.1.2 Main issues of Fast-Fashion 12 2.1.3 Solutions 18 2.2 Design Thinking (D.T) 22 2.2.1 What’s Design Thinking 22 2.2.2 Expectations from Design Thinking 26 2.3 Design Thinking serves to Fast-Fashion model 28 2.3.1 Examples of departments we could notice D.T is applied to F.F Erreur ! Signet non défini. 2.3.2 Problems solved 29 2.3.3 Experts’ points of view 31 3 Methodology 33 3.1 Research Methods 33 3.1.1 Research Design: scientific observation 33 3.2 Research Sample: qualitative 35 3.3 Case Study: Design Thinking through new tasks organisation at Bosch 36 4 Research 39 4.1 Case Study on some companies which already made D.T fit with F.F 39 4.1.1 Before/After Results 39 4.1.2 Lego Case Study 40 4.1.3 IBM Case Study 41 4.1.4 « Keep the change » project Case Study 42 5 Discussion and Conclusion 43 References 45 1 1 Introduction The Design Thinking method raises questions from CEOs and employees who see firstly the organizational change resulting from this method. Some companies are not ready to reorganize their way of working, and do not accept it despite the long-term benefits it brings. Design Thinking is an obvious and current topic in the more developed regions but remains a sensitive issue for emerging economies. Design Thinking is also the ability to recognize its wrongs, to "rethink your way of thinking" (Simon, 1969:1) and willingness to change. It comes from a responsible, ethical thought while keeping the aesthetic and pretty aspect of the product. This rather modern method shows that it is possible to combine durability and aesthetics. Helsinki, rightly the European capital of design, is proof of this. My research question is In what extend could Design Thinking method solve Fast-Fashion ecological issues? Indeed, it is interesting to study the link between the "short-sighted" Fast-Fashion Industry and Design Thinking, which promotes sustainability and ethics. Indeed, mass-and-fast production due to fashion trends does not promote sustainable development. For several years now, people have been waking up to these questions of ethics, fair trade, planet preservation, well-being for oneself. Environmentalists were the first to talk about it, then the media, finally the politicians got involved and now, all our daily life is confronted with this question of eco-responsibility: biodegradable plastic bags in supermarkets, the "green jeans" more and more marketed, the recycling of clothes more systematic and lucrative for the customers... However, all countries are not equal on these more responsible practices and in some regions, the words "reuse", "repair", "opportunity" remain taboo. In a first part, I will go over the different themes such as the Fast-Fashion Industry, its definition, its major issues and its vital necessity to become a more eco-responsible Industry. Then I will discuss Design Thinking as a solution to the problems of Fast- Fashion. Once having explained it, I will comment on the results of my in-depth comparison between Design Thinking and the different company strategies that have been taken to alleviate the current ecological problems, but which do not deal with the cause of the problem, since they mask it. In this section we will also look at the "utopia" of Design Thinking in terms of the obvious improvements it is likely to see in companies 2 that apply this new method. Finally, we will see in the third part the link between the Fast-Fashion Industry and the Design Thinking method, i.e. which problems are solved, which advantages are observed through case studies. This part will be the most concrete of the three. 3 2 Literature Review 2.1 Fast Fashion Industry (F.F) 2.1.1 What’s Fast-Fashion? 2.1.1.1 Beginning of the phenomenon The first fashion theories agree that the clothing industry was imbued with these theories in order to stimulate the desire, the envy of the consumer. Sociologists Bourdieu (1984), Simmel, (1957) and Veblen (1899) connect fashion with this desire for social inclusion and differentiation. A phenomenon of group belonging was possible thanks to a set of codes, norms, and values shared by individuals. The Clothing Industry very quickly changed into the Fast-Fashion Industry, which appeared following the increase in clothing consumption in the 1990s. Indeed, after a long period of frustration and recession between the two wars, the post-war period was considered as a time of increasing freedom, relief, and wealth for individuals. The Consumer Society began in the 1950's through the "Glorious Thirty" period, which artist Duane Hanson depicted in his famous life-size sculpture "Supermarket Shopper" in 1969. Figure 1. Supermarket Lady by Duane Hanson in 1969, full size photorealistic sculpture 4 At that time, the value of money was rising again, the economy emerged stronger and more robust and people had a higher purchasing power. With the many social advances in terms of paid holidays, financial aid from governments, gender equality laws, minimum wages, people earn more by also having more free time. Thus, leisure activities such as family outings or shopping are becoming a norm, luxury is becoming popular and the demand for clothing is increasing. Fashion has always been very important for societies because it reflects the origin and evolution of cultures, traditions and social innovations, an imprint left by man voluntarily to show his passage on Earth. Fashion is a weave of symbols, aesthetic, and cultural motifs that people use to express their taste, way of life, social status and belonging to a community. The industrial revolution had already begun this phase of eccentricity, frivolity, systematic fashion with the introduction of new technologies (e.g. sewing machine). Fashion became physically and financially accessible to many people and less expensive to produce with textile fibres cheaper than silk, linen, muslin... Clothing factories and workshops appeared on the outskirts of the cities. “Rapid fashion” finally made it possible to develop countries' economies locally (city development) then globally (relocation abroad, inter-country trade boosted by countries' commercial alliances). Hitherto reserved for a more mundane social category, fashion became vital for men in the aftermath of the 1939-45 war. The fashion industry was to play on this post-war craze with ingenuity by creating the need in people with patterns, utopias, dreams, sequins, idealized personalities through clothing. This process of "Fast-Fashion" reflects this desire to possess, this fear of lack initially shared by people who have experienced war and recession. For them, to possess is to live. Fashion then becomes more popular, allowing a form of personal expression, a liberation from thoughts, moods, and feelings. A quick wardrobe, cheaper and trendier: consumers feel like a new person every day.