Manipur—Which Means ‘The Jewelled Land’—Shows Why Its Name Is Not Just a Label but a Hearty Sum of Its Parts
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ESCAPE CROWN JEWELWhat is in a name, you ask? Plenty! Manipur—which means ‘the jewelled land’—shows why its name is not just a label but a hearty sum of its parts. Text and Photographs: Mukul and Shilpa Gupta t takes no time for our mispronounced “toda” (the Hindi ‘North-Indian’ hearts—used thoda, meaning little) while to vigorous, vehement, and ‘more’ is expressed with a rise of aggressive bargaining—to her flat right palm, signifying that Imelt at the congeniality of the we jack up the negotiating rate. shopkeeper. Here, far removed We chuckle at her attempt, she from the mainland, the haggling giggles into her innaphi (shawl), Lai Haraoba, the is good-natured with the aged the deal is struck and the bamboo spring festival, seller incredibly smiling through basket is ours. is a harmonious it all, her disposition friendly and Turns out, we came back blend of stylised temper perfectly even. “Thoda from Imphal with a lot more and ritualistic kam (a little less), please,” we than a piece of utility. We carried dances for peace implore in a pantomime of back an experience of a lifetime and prosperity, expressions, gestures, and silent from an ancient land that was performed in lip movement. The bemused apparently even referenced in the honour of the shopkeeper responds similarly, epic Mahabharata. local deities. almost. She articulates a Manipur, India’s outpost in Photo: Dinodia 42 February-March 2016 India Now Business and Economy n www.ibef.org ESCAPE the north-east, means the land of jewels. If ever there was an apt moniker, it is this. From raggedy hills, pristine valleys, dense forests and clear blue lakes, to innumerable orchids and the Siroi lily found here exclusively, the state packs in quite a punch (just like its most famous denizen, the indubitable boxer Mary Kom). As if the abundant natural beauty was not enough, Manipur lures with a cornucopia of cultures and traditions. Its mosaic of attractions includes Opening: The largest freshwater lake in the north-east, Loktak is unique for the innumerable masses of weed and several dance forms—including vegetation (phumdis) dotting its surface. Above: The Shree Govindajee temple, originally built in 1846, is dedicated to the lyrical and devotional Lord Krishna and is a symbol of Vaishnavite influence on the state. India Now Business and Economy n www.ibef.org February-March 2016 43 ESCAPE Manipuri dance which depicts in the world quite like the the raas-leela of Krishna and kaleidoscopic Ima Keithel or his gopis, and the Lai-Haraoba, mothers’ market where we had meaning the merry-making of our genial tussle with the woman the gods, which has a dedicated shopkeeper. It is among the annual festival—the martial largest markets run exclusively arts of wrestling and sword by women. Here, all manner Left: An ancient temple near Langthabal. Above: Possibly among the fighting, exquisite handicrafts, of commodities—decorative, largest markets of its kind anywhere in the world, Ima Keithel is run and handlooms (a good place cosmetic, and utilitarian—are exclusively by women. for your initiation into Manipuri hawked by almost 4,000 women culture and history is the State traders. While the genesis of the IN IMA KEITHEL, Museum with its collection of market is vague and obscure all manner of commodities— tribal artefacts and weapons). (some inconclusively estimate it With weather that is pleasant all has been around since the 16th decorative, cosmetic, year through—summers are not century), there is no doubting utilitarian—are hawked too hot and winters are anything the fact that it underlines by almost 4,000 but harsh—what is not to like! the active role of women in There is, of course, nothing Manipuri society. women traders. 44 February-March 2016 India Now Business and Economy n www.ibef.org ESCAPE Another iconic feature of those days of glory. It is a heritage the state capital is the Shree site that holds archaeological and Govindajee Temple. Dedicated historical relevance, not unlike to Lord Krishna, the temple is Langthabal, right next to the elegant in its simplicity. Originally campus of Manipur University built in 1846 using bricks and in Canchipur. It is famous for the Burma teak, it has faced a series crumbling ruins of an early 19th of upheavals, including loot, an century palace that was built by earthquake, and reconstruction. Maharaja Gambhir Singh after As much as a thing of beauty and the liberation of Manipur from piety, it is a symbol of Vaishnavite Burmese occupation. Apart from influence on the state that was the brick-red vestiges of the palace, once a cluster of independent there are temples and other sites territories occupied by separate dating back almost two centuries. clans. It became a consolidated Set amid pine and jackfruit forests, sovereign kingdom under the it ranks high as an eminently Meiteis in the 15th century. worthy tourist destination. Known as Meitei-Leipak (Land Short excursions from of the Meiteis), its capital was Imphal yield sights, sounds Kangla, now renamed Imphal. and vistas unique to the state. Kangla Fort is representative of Whether it is the holy land of Bishnupur with several heritage temples, or Ukhrul, bestowed with ample natural bounty including peaks and caves, the virginal Thoubal that is an ideal trekking destination, or Moreh, the gateway to exotic Myanmar, Right and bottom: During World War II, the Battle of Imphal proved the tiny cup-shaped state holds a to be the turning point of the Burma Campaign, with Allied Forces plethora of aces up its sleeve. successfully fending off the Japanese invasion of India. The Manipur was thrust into global Commonwealth War Graves Commission continues to maintain consciousness during World War both the World War II cemeteries in the Manipuri capital. II. Its transformation from a peaceful haven of the Raj into a site for a battle was precipitated by the Japanese who, with help from Subhash Chandra Bose’s Indian National Army, wanted to wrest Imphal from the British. Today all that remains to serve as reminders of the Battle of Imphal are two solemn WWII cemeteries immaculately maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, UK National Army Museum’s declaration of Imphal/ Kohima as Britain’s Greatest Battle, and an assortment of sites, including many roads that were first tarred during the war. Even the runway at the capital’s airport is a relic of the war. However, the most epic reminder of both battle India Now Business and Economy n www.ibef.org February-March 2016 45 ESCAPE and bravery is the INA Museum called khangpok. The Loktak is a Imphal, once are everyday features (Hindu in Moirang (45 km from Imphal), lifeline for Manipur and it is a sight called Kangla, Vaishnavites consider fish to be once the unofficial headquarters to behold as scores of fishermen was the seat of the vegetarian). Try iromba, a stew of of the INA. It exhibits a collection set out fishing in their boats. For Meitei kingdom. veggies, bamboo shoots and dried of photographs, correspondence a bird’s-eye view of the panoramic The Kangla Fort fish, and ngri made with dried and artefacts of Bose and his INA beauty, Sendra Island is the place is a testament to fish. Be careful of the heat though comrades—priceless for more to be. Naturalists should also those days of glory as Manipuris love peppers. Morok- than sentimental reasons because visit the Keibul Lamjao National and power. metpa, a spicy sauce made of either it was here that the Indian Park, the only natural abode of red or green chillies and dried fish, tricolour was hoisted for the first the Sangai deer. It’s a large stretch is omnipresent. time on April 14 1944. of phumdi, bestowing upon it For us, though, nothing If, however, your imagination the unparalleled honour of captures Manipur’s ethos, is stirred more by geography than being the world’s lone simplicity and beauty quite like history, visit Loktak lake, near floating national park. the wrinkled, betel-chewing lady Moirang. Making it unique is Since the robust who sold us the bamboo basket. not the fact that it is north-east’s weather and serene beauty She does not know it but she largest freshwater lake but the alone cannot help a visitor inadvertently taught us that the incredible phumdis—floating survive, Manipur also dishes credit for shaping the destiny of mass of decomposing weed and out singularly unique edibles. a region and making it a thing of vegetation, some doughnut-like, While the staple food of the state beauty goes to its residents. Of others forming islands. Larger is rice, vegetables like different course, it helps if Mother Nature phumdis are inhabited by local types of mushrooms, fermented too plays along. n fisherfolk who have built huts, fish dishes and fermented soybeans 46 February-March 2016 India Now Business and Economy n www.ibef.org.