Matt Joyce Spirit That Makes SXSW Such a Touch- Around the Square with Craft Beers and Food Pairings

SOUVENIR

exhibition that is one of SXSW’s most Institute. “The decline of music pack- elements of Austin’s music history accessible activities for curious locals aging—CD sales and record sales— from the past 40 years are on display and tourists: the Flatstock poster show. has also been a factor. There’s a desire at a booth hosted by the South Austin Organized by the American Poster to have things that are handmade Popular Culture Center. Institute, Flatstock draws about 80 and personal.” Artist Danny Garrett held court at poster artists to Austin each year dur- Rock poster artwork traces its roots the booth last year, signing copies of ing the SXSW Music Festival. The to the 1960s in San Francisco and Aus- his book Weird yet Strange: Notes from artists come from across the globe to tin, where underground comic-book an Austin Music Artist. Garrett started mingle with peers, market their work artists were recruited to draw post- drawing music posters in 1971 and has to bands and industry types, and ers promoting concerts. At Flatstock, worked with the likes of Willie Nelson, display their screen-printed posters, particularly music posters promoting bands, concerts, and festivals. Strolling through Flatstock feels somewhat like navigating a carnival A Brazos County golf tradition for more midway as barkers pitch their games than 90 years, Travis B. Bryan Municipal and rides. But it’s not the artists them- selves calling out; it’s their splashy Golf Course accommodates golfers of artwork that screams from the walls: every skill and ability. Don’t miss this rock show! Never forget With fun and challenge at every shot, that amazing festival! Check out my crazy colorful design! we invite you to see why our members “These are all real grassroots design- and guests enjoy playing our course ers making artwork basically as close time and time again. to from the soul as you can get in the world of commercial art,” says Mark To learn more please visit: Brickey, a graphic designer from Los Angeles who hosts a podcast called YOU CAN www.bryantx.gov/golf Adventures in Design. “Where you

and I are standing right now, this is #SMTXperience the intersection where commercial art and fine art meet.” [ ] Flatstock is free and kid-friendly and features a stage that hosts about six bands each afternoon. Because the Festival season is tuning up this exhibition is located at the heart of the spring on San Marcos’ Downtown Square. conference, thousands of touring mu- April 7-9: Swing On The Square features all things Western Vision with Volume sicians, industry reps, and fans filter Swing – bands, dance contest and a Gospel Brunch with BBQ. The Flatstock poster show at South by Southwest through, providing a glimpse of the energetic, creative, and collaborative April 8: Brew Hop showcases breweries at downtown stops story by Matt Joyce spirit that makes SXSW such a touch- around the square with craft beers and food pairings. stone of popular culture. April 28-29: MR Fest spotlights local and regional indie artists at OU NEVER KNOW WHAT YOU’LL FIND AT SOUTH Flatstock also bolsters the funda- multiple venues around the square. CITY OF BRYAN by Southwest, Austin’s annual summit of creative Flatstock mental artistic element of music by industries and popular culture. President Obama is one of honoring handmade artwork. The Second Saturdays: Art Squared Art Market features artisan www.bryantx.gov/visit showed up in 2016 to talk technology and tacos. In SXSW’s screen-printed posters offer balance to booths and live music on the lawn. Y2012, Doritos hosted a party with rapper Snoop Dogg performing most an industry that now reaches its audi- There’s even more to do – just visit TourSanMarcos.com! #BetterInBryan on a stage built to look like a five-story snack vending machine. accessible ence mostly through touchscreens. And in 2007, Twitter famously took flight during the conference. activities “The popularity of gig posters has The cultural stampede can be a bit overwhelming, especially for curious been a reaction to the coldness of digi- TM THE GOOD LIFE, for those who aren’t jetting in on business accounts to network at locals and tal media,” says Terrence Ryan, aka TEXAS STYLE. the festival’s technology, film, and music conventions. But tucked tourists. Lil’ Tuffy, a San Francisco artist and /TourSanMarcos www.TourSanMarcos.com | 512.393.5930 within the Austin Convention Center, there’s an engaging co-president of the American Poster

24 texashighways.com Poster art by Dan Grissom/Biscuit Press MARCH 2017 25 SOUVENIR

IN THE GALLERY

to a tree-house gathering with friends PORTRAITS Andy McDougall, of British Columbia, and music—a magical adult fairyland OF FREEDOM Canada, will return this year to demonstrate of sorts. screen-printing at SXSW’s Flatstock As it turns out, Grissom had cre- Through April 16, 2017 Poster Show. Below, the Jacknife booth. ated the poster only a couple of weeks Dupree Lobby • Free earlier for a Dallas-based environ- mental charity called RETREET. The Featuring compositions group organizes weekend “Retreets” to drawn from runaway slave plant trees for residents in places that advertisements aggregated have been damaged by natural disas- by the Texas Runaway Slave ters, while taking along their bikes for Project. The path from slavery transportation and recreational rides. to freedom in Texas is Since its founding in 2012, RETREET narrated through a range of has planted trees in Bastrop, Wimber- mediums including drawing, ley, Lancaster, Cleburne, Rowlett, and painting, lithography, and the Possum Kingdom area as well as screen-printing. out of state. Made possible in part by a grant from Humanities Texas, the state affiliate of the National Endowment for the Humanities. “The popularity of gig posters has been a reaction Smithsonian A liate

to the coldness of digital Open 7 days a week media. There’s a desire Free parking 3333 N. MacArthur Blvd. to have things that are Irving, TX 75062 handmade and personal.” www.IrvingArtsCenter.com Art by Kim Jenkins, SFA Student

Grady McGahan, the founder and di- Hopewell’s imaginative artwork re- rector of RETREET, tells me later that flects the incredible diversity on dis- Grissom’s poster captures RETREET’s play among the 55 booths in the con- fundamental values of trees, commu- Crazy Desert Stribling Art vention center. Most of the posters cost nity, inclusion, and fun. “The tree is John Trail Race Extravaganza Steinbeck about $30, and many of the artists also unique in that forest. It has a Beren- March 11th March 24 25 sell their artwork on lower-priced col- stain Bears feel to it,” he says. “There’s lectibles like T-shirts, koozies, pins, a nostalgia for me looking at that and stickers. Although most of the image, nostalgia for this new thing that posters promote bands and concerts, I think is a powerful motif that really Stevie Ray Vaughan, and Antone’s, the poster art since the show debuted in you’ll also see artwork related to sports, draws you in: Come and climb this lad- seminal Austin blues club. San Francisco in 2002. In 2016, I met politics, movies, and nature. der, we’re having a great time up here, “The very fact that there still is a gig two artists who took up printmak- That’s what I find at the Biscuit everyone is welcome.” poster scene going on and the fact that ing after discovering it during vis- Press booth featuring the screen prints Now framed and hanging on a wall for more than a dozen years now it’s its to SXSW. One of them was Chris of Austin artist Dan Grissom. Among of my home, the poster evokes a simi- had a place at South by Southwest and Hopewell, a poster artist from Bristol, Grissom’s posters was one depicting lar reaction when I pause for a moment other music conferences, I think that’s England, whose Jacknife studio’s eye- the tranquil scene of a stout, gnarly to focus on it or introduce the scene to incredible,” Garrett says. “Because re- catching work draws on the imagery of tree set in the middle of a deep forest at friends. You truly never know what ally, this whole thing started out with comic-book heroines, beer can labels, dusk. Bicycles lean against the base of you’ll find at South by Southwest. people trying to describe psychedelic and motorcycles. the trunk, and a ladder climbs to a tree music as it was emerging in the mid- “I came to South by Southwest be- house built into the canopy of twist- FLATSTOCK ’60s in San Francisco with art. I think cause I was working in a different ing branches. Warm yellow light glows takes place March 16-18 in that led directly to what me and my branch of music at the time, making from the tree house windows, high- Hall 4 of the Austin Convention Craft Beer Grapes of colleagues did, and it’s still going on.” music videos, and I discovered this,” lighting the silhouettes of people play- Center during the South by Festival Wrath Flatstock itself, which hosts a series Hopewell says. “I fell in love with the ing instruments, dancing, and visiting. Southwest Conference & March 25th March 24 25 of poster shows throughout the year whole idea of poster making, so I went I paused as the scene transported me Festivals. Admission is free. in the United States and Europe, has back and bought a printing deck and away from the noisy convention cen- www.sxsw.com/exhibitions/ For more events go to VisitSanAngelo.org certainly had a hand in perpetuating started doing it.” ter and into the forest, riding my bike flatstock.

26 texashighways.com Photos: Matt Wetzler MARCH 2017 27 BIG THICKET

CANOEING THE DRIFT LOWER NECHES RIVER THROUGH BIG THICKET NATIONAL PRESERVE STORY BY MATT JOYCE PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRANDON JAKOBEIT

54 texashighways.com MARCH 2017 55 “IT’S NOT TOO OFTEN THAT YOU JUST DON’T HAVE ANYTHING TO DO,” our guide remarked as we lounged on the sandy shoreline of the Neches River in East Texas, cooling off in the water after a day of canoeing. Across the caramel-tinted river, a dense forest crowded the dirt bluff on the opposite bank. Behind us, our loaded canoes rested on the edge of a broad, empty sandbar, its semicircle beach mirroring the lumi- nous half-moon overhead. True, we’d been bobbing in the shallow rapids for a half-hour or so to keep cool on that sunny July afternoon. But it would be misleading to imply we had nothing to do. We’d paddled about 10 miles that day. Soon we would set up our tents, cast a lazy fishing line, cook Beaumont. For three days, we a camp-stove dinner, and start a driftwood fire to ac- floated through a diversity of company our tall tales and guitar strumming. We Big Thicket waterscapes, soak- had plenty to do—just not the type of checklist fodder ing in the beauty, culture, and that dominates the clock-driven days of routine life. history of this inconspicuous When floating the Neches River through the East Texas natural wonder. depths of the Big Thicket, I was beginning to real- ize, it’s best to put your schedules and anxieties on AS WE PADDLED around the backburner and let the river’s current, mean- the first few bends in the river, ders, and scenery be your guide. In other words—go it became apparent that we had with the flow. gotten lucky with nearly ideal I had embarked that morning from a boat ramp conditions—clear skies, a swift near Evadale with Texas Highways photographer current, and fresh sandbars. Brandon Jakobeit and guides Gerald Cerda and Months of flooding in 2015 and Jason Connolly of Big Thicket Outfitters. In two early 2016 had scoured brush canoes loaded with ice chests, cooking gear, tents, and trash from the sandbars bedding, folding chairs, clothes, and a guitar, we and built them up with freshly followed the lower Neches River through the Big deposited sand. Moreover, the Thicket National Preserve to a takeout point in north river level had dropped in the previous weeks, uncovering the sandbars and channeling the river into GOING WITH THE FLOW a consistent flow. The Big Thicket National Preserve protects the Neches “The river is constantly changing,” River corridor from B.A. Steinhagen Lake to Beaumont, noted Cerda, who started Big Thicket an 80-mile stretch with forested shorelines and occa- Outfitters in 2012 after exploring the sional riverside cabins where everyone’s got a boat. lower Neches recreationally since his

56 texashighways.com Illustration by Mike Lowery MARCH 2017 57 on the sandbars for swimming and picnic breaks, and for camping at night. (Most moderately fit people could han- dle this trip if they’re comfortable with being in a canoe for a few days and tent-camping.) Because sandbars are part of the public streambed, they’re open for camping. The national preserve requires permits for camping in its section of the river; permits are free and easy to acquire, either by phone or at the visitor center in Kountze. Sandbars have always been one of the Neches River’s defining charac- teristics. The first Europeans to record their observations of the river in the 1500s called it Río de Nievas, or River of Snow, because of the white sand. There are at least two explanations for how the childhood. “You know that saying? A OUR Neches got its contemporary name— man never steps in the same river twice, FLOAT TRIP one holds that a Spaniard named the because it’s not the same river, and he GAVE US river after the Neches Indians, a Cad- isn’t the same man.” A RIVER- doan tribe from the region; another is The Neches River originates from a LEVEL VIEW that the Spaniards adopted the name spring in Van Zandt County and flows OF THE BIG used by the Caddos, who called the river THE southeast 416 miles before emptying THICKET’S “nachawi,” their word for the bois d’arc BIG THICKET into Sabine Lake and the Gulf of Mex- RENOWNED tree. Whatever the case, historians be- ASSOCIATION ico. Starting at Town Bluff Dam, which ECOLOGICAL lieve that the natives of the area traveled hosts the Neches forms B.A. Steinhagen Lake near Jas- DIVERSITY, by rivers and creeks as an alternative to River Rally each per, the river serves more or less as an PARTICULARLY the dense thicket. It’s hard to imagine September to 80-mile eastern boundary of the Big THE that these pre-Texans didn’t frequent raise funds for its Thicket National Preserve. BOTTOMLAND the sandbars as well. conservation The Big Thicket ecosystem once cov- HARDWOOD Different chapters of Neches River mission. At ered nearly 3 million acres, from the FORESTS history and culture bubbled to the sur- texashighways.com, Neches west to the Trinity River, and AND SLOUGHS face throughout our float. We encoun- read expanded from Woodville down to Beaumont. OF CYPRESS tered fishermen angling for catfish and coverage of the Only about 3 percent of the Big Thicket AND TUPELO crappie with trotlines and fishing poles association and survives intact today, according to the FORESTS. as well as funky wooden fishing cab- the rally. National Park Service. The Big Thicket ins—some houseboats and some built National Preserve protects 112,000 on stilts on the shore. Near Vidor, we acres in a patchwork of 15 units across docked briefly to visit with jovial river- seven counties. Our float trip gave us a side residents kayaking and swimming river-level view of the Big Thicket’s re- off their back porches. nowned ecological diversity, particu- The Neches River basin has long larly the bottomland hardwood forests been timber country; loggers once used bordering the river and the sloughs and this section of the river to float timber to bayous of cypress and tupelo forests. mills in Beaumont. Large cypress tree The Neches River’s sandbars were a central part of our canoe trip. We spent most of our days paddling downriver, NATURAL HABITAT sometimes leaving the main channel Above, a beaver dam forms a pool on a creek to explore swift-moving side courses, that feeds Banks Bayou. Right, a campsite swampy lakes, and bayous. We docked on a picturesque Neches River sandbar.

58 texashighways.com MARCH 2017 59 stumps with distinct rings around their bases are remnants of a century-old logging technique, Cerda said. Loggers would score the trunks in the summer to injure the trees and then return in the winter to cut and float them to the mill. Early in the trip, we canoed under an old railroad swing bridge with a massive gear on its underside, possibly a mech- anism for the bridge to turn and make way for riverboat traffic, which mostly ceased by 1900. We also paddled by the rusted remnants of shoreline docks for early 20th-century oil-and- gas operations, along with infrastructure for ongoing energy production in the Big Thicket. With the exception of birds, wildlife in the Big Thicket kept a pretty low profile during our trip, but creature clues greeted “YOU “People ask about bears, about moun- us at every stop. Tracks in the sand and mud hinted at deer, tain lions, about snakes,” Ranger Mary raccoons, birds, dogs, and feral hogs. During the trip, I spot- KNOW THAT SAYING? Kay Manning said. “And I tell them, ted three deer, a beaver, turtles, alligator gar, mullet fish, min- honestly, the things I’m worried about nows, and an unidentified water snake. A MAN NEVER STEPS are mosquitoes and ticks because of Also on the sandbars, we found numerous shells from the diseases they can transmit. The freshwater bivalve mussels, some as large as taco shells. The IN THE SAME RIVER mammals are going to stay away from mussels scoot around the sandy river bottom, filtering water people.” through their bodies to feed on microorganisms. When the TWICE, BECAUSE Thusly warned, we brought plenty of water recedes, you can see the mussels’ beautifully random bug repellent along. As it turned out, the paths in the sand, resembling the squiggly doodles on a ju- IT’S NOT THE SAME mosquitoes weren’t a major factor on nior high notebook. the river or the sandbars (we stayed out Each morning at dawn, a growing chorus of birdsong ush- RIVER, AND HE ISN’T of the forest for the most part), but they ered in the day. Occasionally, the rattle of a woodpecker would could be an annoyance at dusk. Just be roll across the river valley. I saw a pileated woodpecker cross THE SAME MAN.” sure to keep mosquitoes out of your tent the river with its distinctive flap-swoop-flap-swoop flying mo- for the night! tion. Cardinals, little blue herons, wood ducks, vultures, and Big Thicket National Preserve’s most great egrets accompanied us throughout the journey. And a popular paddling destination is Village first for me: swallow-tailed kites—a raptor characterized by Creek, a tributary of the Neches River its scissortail and sleek black-and-white body—circled over- that meanders southeast through the head a few times. Piney Woods and Big Thicket. Big At night, the sounds of owls, cicadas, crickets, and frogs pro- Thicket Outfitters does about 90 per- vided the backdrop for our campfire tales. On our second night cent of its canoe and kayak rental busi- of camping, shortly after bedtime, a motorboat with a spotlight ness on Village Creek, Cerda said, be- startled me awake and called to mind the unsettling banjo cause the creek is good for shorter trips, strains of Deliverance. Turns out it was some locals “bullfrog- ranging from a couple of hours to over- ging”—hunting for fat frogs to fry. night camping trips. Village Creek runs The day before embarking on the canoe trip, I had visited through similar terrain as the lower the Big Thicket National Preserve Visitor Center in Kountze Neches, but the waterway is narrower. to study up on my surroundings. Built in the shade of a loblolly Near Lumberton, Village Creek State pine forest and set in a Craftsman-style log building, the cen- Park offers developed campsites with ter presents exhibits about the Big Thicket’s history, ecology, bathrooms. and wildlife, such as alligators, bobcats, mountain lions, and But our river journey provided a snakes. Historically, black bear, jaguars, and red wolves also broader perspective of the lower Neches. roamed the area. Dense hardwood forests dominated the shoreline for the first three-quarters of our trip. Sixty-foot, spindly trees such RIVER SOUNDS as water oak, river birch, and loblolly Left, guide Jason Connolly contemplates the Neches. pine crowded each other along the prec- Right, Big Thicket Outfitters proprietor Gerald Cerda ipice of the dirt bank, looking like mar- picks a tune after setting up a sandbar campsite. athon runners jockeying for position

60 texashighways.com MARCH 2017 61 The paddling trail took us through the fairy-tale setting of a sun-dappled slough full of cypress and tupelo trees, where the light took on a shadowy, emerald quality. Witch- es-beard lichen and verdant ferns sprouted from the gnarly old trees. We maneuvered our canoes around the trees’ knobby knees and ducked below massive spider webs in the branches. The forest muffled all sound except for the water trickling around our paddles. With a flash of white and a rustle of leaves, a hidden great egret splashed the surface and flapped toward the sky. Leaving the silence of the water forest and rejoining the river, we paddled our way to a ramp near the Neches River Saltwater Bar- rier and pulled our canoes ashore. We were at the starting line. Erosion exposed THE tired, hot, and sun-beaten, but in the calm, the trees’ roots on the bank, while wil- PADDLING clearheaded, and refreshed way that comes from immersing low trees reached their green, leafy TRAIL TOOK yourself in nature for a few days. branches out over the river, providing US THROUGH “They call this a hidden gem,” Cerda said as we surveyed moments of shade as our canoes floated THE FAIRY- the journey. “If it is a hidden gem, would more people come beneath. Yaupon holly and sweetgum TALE SETTING here if they knew about it?” filled the understory, and flowering OF A SUN- I tend to think so. Three months later, I returned to the lower vines like trumpet creeper and wiste- DAPPLED Neches River, this time with my family in tow, for the Neches ria added splashes of red and orange to SLOUGH FULL River Rally. We paddled along the leafy riverbank, spotting the greenery. OF CYPRESS egrets and jumping fish, and marveled at the wondrously odd I didn’t see a single alligator on this AND TUPELO cypress trees that stretch from the water’s murky surface to trip, although I kept my eyes peeled TREES, WHERE the sky. I could tell my family was just as captivated as I was. for them, especially as we ventured THE LIGHT into the lakes and sloughs that char- TOOK ON TH Associate Editor Matt Joyce never thought he would acterized the last quarter of our trip. A SHADOWY, find the Neches River’s murky waters so appealing. TH Not far from Beaumont, we detoured EMERALD Photography Editor Brandon Jakobeit loves the alternative off the Neches River and onto Scatter- QUALITY. perspective that comes with a float down the river. man Lake to follow the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department paddling trail known as “Cooks Lake to Scatterman.” The 4.8-mile loop is the setting of the ESSENTIALS: Big Thicket Association’s Neches River BIG THICKET PADDLING Rally, an annual September event for Big Thicket Outfitters offers a range of guiding and boat-rental services on the canoeists and kayakers to explore this lower Neches River, Village Creek, and the Cooks Lake to Scatterman Paddling section of the Neches River, Pine Island Trail. Canoe and kayak rentals cost about $45 a day, with additional costs for Bayou, and offshoot lakes and sloughs. customized guiding services. Call 409/786-1884; www.bigthicketoutfitters.com. The Big Thicket National Preserve encompasses 80 miles of the Neches Riv- HAPPY TRAILS er and 35 miles of Village Creek, including most of the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department’s 21-mile Village Creek Paddling Trail. For information on pad- The 4.8-mile Cooks Lake to Scatterman dling in the preserve, including permits and local outfitters, call 409/951-6700; Paddling Trail branches off the Neches River www.nps.gov/bith. and explores beautiful sections of cypress and tupelo forest. Above, the weathered trunk of The 4.8-mile Cooks Lake to Scatterman Paddling Trail, a Texas Parks and an old cypress known as the “Madonna tree” Wildlife Department-designated trail, is accessible from the boat ramp at the bears a faint resemblance to artistic depic- Lower Neches Valley Authority Saltwater Barrier. www.tpwd.texas.gov/fishboat/ tions of the Virgin Mary. boat/paddlingtrails/inland/cookslake_scatterman/index.phtml.

62 texashighways.com MARCH 2017 63 1 — Colorado River 2 — San Marcos River 3 — Comal River ROAD-TRIPPING THE TEXAS HILL COUNTRY RIVERS ON THE SUMMER SOLSTICE NINE-RIVER DAY

STORY BY MATT JOYCE

4 — Medina River 5 — Sabinal River 6 — Frio River

7 — Guadalupe River 8 — Blanco River 9 — Pedernales River

Photos: Matt Joyce; © Eric W. Pohl (right) Photo by Kevin Stillman 36 texashighways.com MAY 2017 37 THERE’S SOMETHING ABOUT THE SUMMER

SOLSTICE THAT the hum of traffic grew, and the first rays of sun illuminated downtown’s INSPIRES ADVENTURE. glassy buildings in reflected shades of lavender and peach. I navigated up the Barton Creek As the official start of summer and the longest day of the inlet to the spillway below Barton year, the solstice illuminates a world of possibility with Springs Pool, watching the water’s more than 14 hours of daylight. On June 21 this year, surface simmer with rising the sun will rise at 6:30 in the morning and shine fish and swarms of swifts until 8:36 at night. What better excuse to explore swooping for insects. Land- the outdoors? ing the kayak on a dirt bank, I was pondering this potential last June as reports I dove into the water for a re- from around the Hill Country carried news of a rainy freshing jolt. It wasn’t until I spring that had replenished the aquifers and swelled emerged that I realized I had creeks and rivers. Numerous watersheds bisect the interrupted a photographer’s Edwards Plateau as spring-fed rivulets flow into daybreak photo shoot with a creeks and rivers en route to the Gulf of Mexico. tattooed bikini model. Only in Other parts of the world have their natural won- Austin… ders, but it’s hard to beat the summertime satisfaction 2 of swimming in a pristine Texas Hill Country river. Add the summer heat of late June, stretch the day into solstician proportions—and a refreshing chal- SAN MARCOS lenge began to take shape. “How many different RIVER, rivers could I swim in in one day?” I asked myself, SAN MARCOS pulling out a map and gauging the distances. The morning was cool and I scanned the state southwest from Austin and comfortable, but signs of the walked my fingers across the map’s squiggly blue day’s gathering heat mounted lines, hopping from river to river like playing a game as an angle of sunshine of Chutes and Ladders. I envisioned a western loop widened across the shady lawn from Austin to Concan and back—an excursion across at Sewell Park at Texas State scenic Hill Country canyons, savannas, and river bot- University. toms with stops for plunging into cold rivers, hiking Devouring breakfast tacos rocky trails, and snacking on small-town eats. from nearby Lolita’s Cafe, A plan in place, I set my sights on a nine-river day. I peered over the canopy of pecan trees and watched sun- 1 light engulf the red spires of the 114-year-old Old Main, the COLORADO RIVER, Morning breaks over oldest building on campus. AUSTIN Lady Bird Lake on the I held my breath and jumped into the A speck of yellow light flickered across the ebony waters of Colorado River in San Marcos River’s cleansing current, Lady Bird Lake as I launched a rental kayak from the Texas Austin; paved side- brushing my feet against the wispy, kel- Rowing Center dock and paddled my way into the pre-dawn walks and grassy lawns ly-green leaves of Texas wild rice—a darkness. The speck was a fishing skiff, my only company on line the San Marcos species found only here. Floating down- this stretch of the Colorado River in downtown Austin at 6 a.m. River at Sewell Park; stream, I pictured the water burbling As I paddled downstream, the pale light of daybreak re- boats await paddlers from the Edwards Aquifer into Spring vealed the sights and sounds of the city waking up. Runners on the Comal River in Lake, the river’s headwaters only 1,000 churned along the gravel hike-and-bike trail looping the lake, New Braunfels. feet upstream from the park.

Photo by Kevin Stillman 38 texashighways.com Photos: Matt Joyce; © Jenny Sathngam (right) MAY 2017 39 scuba divers explored the river’s 5 depths, leaving a trail of bubbles perco- lating on the surface. SABINAL RIVER, “It’s a very relaxing environment UTOPIA down there,” diver Ben Flores of New The Hill Country terrain buckled into steeper and taller â ESSENTIALS Braunfels told me, relaying how he’s slopes as I drove west across Bandera County to Utopia 1 Colorado River (Lady Bird Lake): Texas Rowing Center, 1541 W. recovered everything from GoPro Park. Here, a dam creates a broad swimming hole on the Cesar Chavez in Austin. Call 512/467-7799; www.texasrowingcenter.com. cameras to diamond rings, key chains, Sabinal River, which rises upstream near Lost Maples State bikini tops, and even a prosthetic leg Natural Area. 2 San Marcos River: Sewell Park, 700-1 Aquarena Springs Drive in San Marcos. from the river’s floor. “I can’t afford I noticed some other visitors fishing, so I grabbed my Call 512/245-2004; www.campusrecreation.txstate.edu/outdoor/sewell-park.html. to go to Cozumel every day, but I can pole and cast a line as well. As I stood on the grassy bank, I 3 Comal River: Prince Solms Park, 100 Liebscher Drive in New Braunfels. swim and dive here every day.” thought back to a recent conversation with Doug Wierman, Call 830/608-2165; www.nbtexas.org/1691/Prince-Solms-Park. a hydrologist and fellow with the Meadows Center for Water 4 Medina River: Ranger Crossing, 4 and the Environment at Texas State University. about three miles west of Bandera on Texas 16. Wierman had explained that most of the Hill Country’s MEDINA RIVER, rivers surface in the Edwards Plateau region. The rivers give 5 Sabinal River: Utopia Park, 241 Utopia Park Road in Utopia. BANDERA and take from shallow aquifers, and both the rivers and aqui- Call 830/966-3643; www.utopiapark.org. A few bystanders glanced over quiz- fers depend heavily on rainfall. 6 Frio River: Garner State Park, 234 Ranch Road 1050 in Concan. zically as I scrambled around to take “What makes these rivers so unique is that the originat- Call 830/232-6132; www.tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/garner. pictures of my barbecue sandwich, ing waters and springs are very nutrient-deficient—there’s 7 Guadalupe River: The Ingram Dam, about eight miles west of Kerrville on Texas 39. which I had balanced on a cypress-tree very little nitrogen compounds or phosphorous—and that’s root on the bank of the Medina River. what discourages algae and makes them so nice and clear 8 Blanco River: Blanco State Park, 101 Park Road 23 in Blanco. The image turned out pretty and pretty,” he said. Call 830/833-4333; www.tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/blanco. Bald cypress trees line the Medina River near well, I thought, capturing the The water’s clarity made it possible for me to see several 9 Pedernales River: Pedernales Falls State Park, 2585 Park Road 6026 in Bandera; a barbecue sandwich at the Ranger meaty sandwich (from Sid’s perch ignoring my lure. So I reeled in my line and jumped Johnson City. Call 830/868-7304; www.tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/pedernales-falls. Crossing of the Medina River; swimmers play Main Street BBQ in Bandera) in the water. in the Sabinal River at Utopia Park. in the riverside’s sun-dappled light against a background of 6 an emerald river and tower- 3 ing cypress trees. FRIO RIVER, Apparently I was getting GARNER STATE PARK COMAL RIVER, a bit lost in my own thoughts “Sorry, the park’s at capacity. We’ve been NEW BRAUNFELS on this fourth stop of my nine- closed since 1:30,” the Garner State Park gate The water of the spring-fed Comal River—the river journey. But I snapped attendant informed me as I pulled into the state’s shortest river—appeared shiny blue-green to attention when I jumped entrance at about 2:15 p.m. as I walked down to the river at Prince Solms Park into the cool water and semi- Rats. I had been looking forward to rent- in New Braunfels. But standing on the bank, I could swift current of the Medina ing an inner tube for a short float on the see clearly down 10 feet to the bottom, where perch River at the Ranger Crossing Frio River, as well as an ice cream cone and bass darted among the vegetation. on Texas 16, a few miles west from the park concessions stand. I know Three hours into the day, I was already on my of Bandera. that Garner is the state’s busiest park, but third river, and I had bypassed chances to access After drifting downstream it didn’t occur to me that it would be full by two others (the Guadalupe and Blanco), saving in the chest-deep water, I early afternoon on a weekday. them for later stops. This was a reoccurring theme: turned and swam against the So I drove a short distance to a bridge I passed up numerous chances to stop at inviting current, spellbound by the on Ranch Road 1050, where I parked on swimming holes—Guadalupe River State Park, water-level view of the river the roadside and walked a trail down Privilege Creek near Bandera, Williams Creek in upstream. The cypress-lined to the river. Here, water about 18 inches Tarpley, and others—as I held to my schedule. banks enveloped the Medina deep washes swiftly across a broad, flat I had no tube to ride Prince Solms Park’s short like the walls of a Spanish limestone riverbed. tube chute, which lies just upstream from the colos- Colonial chapel; the pristine I sat down with my back against the cur- sal Schlitterbahn Water Park, so I swam a bit and river stretched to the horizon rent and watched cliff swallows dart around then took a seat at a picnic table under a stout live where it converged with the the bridge as tubers floated by. In the dis- oak tree. Nearby, children from a summer science pale blue sky. tance, a ridge of green hills undulated across camp dipped fishnets in the water, and submerged the baby-blue mid-afternoon sky.

Photos: © Eric W. Pohl (top left); Matt Joyce Illustration by John S. Dykes 40 texashighways.com MAY 2017 41 7 9 GUADALUPE RIVER, PEDERNALES RIVER, INGRAM PEDERNALES FALLS Having reached the westernmost point of my trip, I drove STATE PARK back northeast across Real and Kerr counties to Ingram and Hiking down the western side of the the Guadalupe River. The route climbed sharp bluffs carpeted river valley at Pedernales Falls State in juniper, crossed big-sky savannas splashed with yellow Park, I watched the shadow of dusk ad- huisache daisies, and then descended to the forested vance up the opposite hill. The day’s Guadalupe River valley. final sheets of light retreated to the ridge The Guadalupe stretches at least 100 yards wide at top of oak and juniper trees like the Ingram Dam, which has a sidewalk on top that’s warriors making a final stand. popular for sunbathing. On the upstream side of the I made it just in time to jump in dam, swimmers bob in deep water while minnows the Pedernales before sunset. nibble their toes. On the opposite side, water pours Floating on my back, I lis- over an angled spillway; algae and the rushing water tened to the rattles and clicks of combine to create a 45-foot slide to the river below. cicadas and bullfrogs. I turned I hadn’t slid down the Ingram Dam since I was a my eyes skyward as the sun’s teenager, but the slide and splash into the river were final rays grazed puffy cumu- as thrilling as ever. Climbing back up onto the slip- lus clouds. The clouds looked pery spillway, however, was harder than I remember. like marshmallows ignited by Back on top of the dam, I was chatting with a local a campfire, blazing from white when we saw splashing in the shallows near the to orange, red, purple, and gray. bank below the spillway. We looked closer. A water By the time I got back home to moccasin had its jaws locked on a bird and was Austin, I had driven 370 miles thrashing back and forth to subdue it. After about over 16 hours, crossing nine 10 seconds of struggle, the stubby snake pulled the rivers (some of them multiple bird’s body into a dark crevice in a pile of boulders times), and countless creeks. lining the bank. Time to move on. “What’s the point?” a friend asked me later, suggesting that 8 she would prefer a more lei- surely trip than a nine-river day. BLANCO RIVER, Fair question. The point was BLANCO to bask in the bounty of the The 70-foot-long picnic table at Blanco State Texas Hill Country’s rivers and Park offered a relaxing spot to eat the chick- make the most of the year’s lon- en-salad sandwich I had picked up at the Clear gest day. Next time, maybe I’ll River café in Fredericksburg. The Civilian Con- swim in one river a day for nine servation Corps built the concrete table in 1933, days, or better yet, spend nine placing it on an oak-shaded bank of the Blanco. days at each of the nine rivers. The CCC also built the park’s main swimming When it comes to swimming area, including a dam and an adjacent swimming pool that’s On the Guadalupe in a spring-fed Hill Country river, you continually refreshed by water pouring downstream (unless River, daredevils slide really can’t go wrong. the river is low). down the Ingram Though it was about 7 p.m. and the sun’s lateral beams Dam on foot; a cabin TH Associate Editor Matt Joyce is cast lanky shadows over the river, tireless children formed overlooking the brainstorming adventures for the 2017 a loop as they jumped from the dam into the swimming hole, Blanco River at Blanco summer solstice. Share your ideas climbed a ladder back up to the dam, and jumped again— State Park; sunset online in this story’s comments section over and over and over. over the Pedernales at texashighways.com. I wonder if the CCC boys ever could have imagined the River at Pedernales generations of Texans their creations would entertain? Falls State Park.

Photos: Matt Joyce; © Eric W. Pohl (right) Photo by Kevin Stillman 42 texashighways.com MAY 2017 43 GAB AND GRUB AT TEXAS’ STOCKYARD CAFÉS

COWBOY CAFÉS

STORY BY MATT JOYCE

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ERICH SCHLEGEL

Photo by Kevin Stillman Photo by Kevin Stillman 50 texashighways.com OCTOBER 2017 51 Opener: Cowboy Terry Huddleston at the Anderson County Livestock Auction in Elkhart; WHEN SITTING IN cherry pie with vanilla ice cream at the Stock- man’s in San Angelo. This page, clockwise: A STOCKYARD CAFÉ, Waitress Joyce Gregory in West; the Cattle Barn in Elkhart; Amarillo Stockyards Café; SURROUNDED BY chicken-fried steak in Amarillo. WHEN SITTING IN A WEATHERED CATTLEMEN IN SWEAT-STAINED STOCKYARD CAFÉ, STETSONS AND BUSY WAITRESSES BALANCING PLATES OF CHICKEN-FRIED STEAK AND POTS OF HOT COFFEE, IT’S WORTH OPENING YOUR EARS TO ABSORB A FEW LOCAL TALES.

Like the story about an agitated cow that chased a Piney Woods rancher into a pond, where he waited in the stagnant water until the cow lost in- terest. Or the yarn about a woman from the plains who grew so frustrated with her husband’s goats that she sold the small herd to a neighbor and re- ported them stolen—until investiga- Most stockyard cafés open only on Commission inspector and a regular tors started asking questions. sale days, typically once a week, but presence at Producers Livestock Auc- FOR TRAVELERS PASSING Inevitably, the café discourse circles a handful around the state open daily tion Co. in San Angelo, which hosts THROUGH TOWN, around to the range, weather, and fam- and cater to the general public too. For the largest sheep and goat sale in the STOCKYARD CAFES ily, then branches off again as new ar- travelers passing through town, stock- country. “It’s an important part of the OFFER A COMFORTING STOP rivals amble in to take a seat among yard cafés offer a comforting stop for community.” FOR DOWNHOME COOKING, the crowd, patting backs and shaking downhome cooking, a chance to rub Farmers and ranchers have long A CHANCE TO RUB ELBOWS hands along the way. elbows with local characters, and a traveled to town to buy and sell live- WITH LOCAL CHARACTERS, There are about 100 auction barns glimpse of the agricultural roots so stock, but as beef became big business AND A GLIMPSE OF scattered across Texas where buyers deeply entwined with Texas heritage. in the 19th century, ranchers started THE AGRICULTURAL ROOTS and sellers meet weekly to trade live- “In your agriculture communities, trailing their herds to regional stock- stock—mostly cattle, but also sheep, the café at a sale barn is the hub, a cen- yards and railheads in places like Fort SO DEEPLY ENTWINED goats, horses, and pigs. With auctions ter for livestock men and ranchers Worth and Kansas City. Meatpacking WITH TEXAS HERITAGE. sometimes lasting all day and into the and agriculture people to sit around plants developed around the stock- night, sale barns often house a restau- and converse back and forth and see yards, where buyers purchased full- rant or concession stand to feed their what’s going on in the market,” says grown cattle for slaughter. The cat- employees and customers. J.R. Hudson, a Texas Animal Health tle business shifted in the 1950s and

Photo by Kevin Stillman 52 texashighways.com OCTOBER 2017 53 MEALS CONSUMED WHILE RESEARCHING THIS STORY To get a taste of Texas’ across the state, diner Alice, Grattons Cajun stockyard cafés, I drove by diner. But reality Kitchen in Karnes City, 1,500 miles over five intervened. Circle M Barbecue in days to visit livestock There are sure to Eastland, and Cow auctions in Amarillo, be many more down- Talk Steakhouse in San Angelo, Elkhart, home meals to be eaten Navasota. and West. I would have at stockyard cafés like Still, I managed to loved to stay on the the Cow Palace in Gon - pick up a few extra road to make my way zales, AJ’s Café in pounds along the way:

AMARILLO STOCKYARDS CAFÉ CATTLE BARN RESTAURANT, ELKHART • Ham steak with two eggs, • Biscuits and gravy with two eggs hash browns, and toast • Hamburger steak with green beans, • Chicken-fried steak with mashed pinto beans, corn bread, potatoes, Texas toast, and salad and “crack” cake STOCKMAN’S RESTAURANT, STOCKYARD CAFE, WEST SAN ANGELO • Eight-ounce rib-eye steak, • Western omelet with two eggs, hash browns, and toast

hash browns and toast • Chicken-salad sandwich • Lamb chops with cornbread, with french fries black-eyed peas, rolls, corn nuggets, and cherry pie with homemade —Matt Joyce vanilla ice cream

’60s with the development of the feed- country cooking—hearty bacon-and- ago and now helps run the place. “We Clockwise from top left: Cattle dealer Lawson lot industry in places like the Texas egg breakfasts, rib-eye steaks, pork all know everything about each other,” Alford at the Amarillo Livestock Auction; Panhandle. It became standard for chops, hamburgers, potatoes, chicken Leal says, pointing around the restau- sorting cattle in Amarillo; mealtime at the ranchers to sell their calves to feedlots, and dumplings, pot roast, fried cat- rant and naming the diners at each West Stockyard Cafe; moving stock in West. which would then fatten the calves fish, and such. Ask the cook at any of table. “You get to sit down and visit and sell them to slaughterhouses. these restaurants what their most pop- with them. We get to know all about Local auction barns developed as ven- ular dish is and one answer prevails: them, their kids, where they work, ues for ranchers to sell their calves. chicken-fried steak. (By the way, be- where they retired from.” Today, about 80 percent of Texas cat- Charlie Blanek, who owns the Stock- tle are sold through auction markets, ASK THE COOK AT man’s Restaurant, also owns the Dun says David Anderson, a professor and ANY OF THESE Bar Restaurant, located about a mile extension economist with Texas A&M RESTAURANTS WHAT away, a diner that his father opened 58 University. THEIR MOST years ago. So what’s the difference be- “The auction is a central location for POPULAR DISH IS tween running a stockyard restaurant buyers and sellers to come together, AND ONE ANSWER and a regular restaurant? and you have a competitive bidding PREVAILS: “Down at the Dun Bar, everybody auction for the ranchers’ calves,” An- wants to buy everybody’s lunch,” derson says. “It really serves a pretty CHICKEN-FRIED STEAK. Blanek says. “It may be the same peo- vital function. If we used a modern cause the cafés order their meat from ple, but up here, it’ll all be separate term, we’d call them aggregators.” food distributors, there’s not necessar- tickets. They don’t want to show any The players in this part of the cattle ily a direct link between the animals weakness. It’s all business, you know. business fuel up in stockyard cafés— sold at auction and the meat served in If they can buy something for a couple family ranchers, buyers represent- the restaurant across the hall.) of pennies cheaper a pound, well, they ing feedlots and other ranchers, truck Juan Leal learned how to cook on get it done.” drivers, veterinarians, cowboys, sta- the job at the Stockman’s Restaurant Speaking of business, the stock- ble hands, and brand inspectors. Judg- at the San Angelo sale barn. He started yard cafes also serve as informal ing by the café menus, these folks like as a 17-year-old dishwasher 24 years sideline markets for cattlemen and

54 texashighways.com OCTOBER 2017 55 buyers looking to fill orders. “A lot of an auction barn as well as Lawson the cattle-ranching roots of Tread- phone calls are made right here. It’s Alford, 75, a cattle dealer who lives way’s family: a sepia-toned picture of kind of like a golf course for a differ- in Turkey and attends three auctions her grandparents and their cabin on ent kind of business,” notes Hudson, weekly in the Panhandle. On Mon- the rim of Palo Duro Canyon, and im- who arrives early on sale days to in- days, you’ll find Alford at the Amarillo ages of pastoral scenes from family spect incoming animals for diseases Livestock Auction, which opened in members’ ranches. and then eats breakfast at the Stock- 1935 and sits along the railroad tracks “This is all we have done our entire man’s with a copy of the San Angelo in an industrial area of Amarillo’s east lives,” Treadway says. Standard-Times. side. Alford, whose father worked at Along those lines, neither Tread- Of course most of the trading takes the Amarillo stockyard, sold calves way nor her late mother tinkered place at the auctions, which are held here during his high school years. much with the café menus they in- in small arenas with bleachers, a dirt- “The breakfast here is always good; herited. “It’s basically been the same floored ring for displaying animals I like the ham,” says Alford, as he since there’s been a restaurant here,” (sold by the head or pound), and an she says. “We keep the basics because auction block above the ring where “THERE’S ALWAYS that’s what people are looking for—the the auctioneer directs the proceedings. BEEN A GROUP OF PEOPLE chicken-fried steak, the rib-eyes.” Hardworking yard hands funnel the WHO COME HERE, The stockyard cafés that stay open animals from outdoor pens through NOT JUST CATTLE PEOPLE. … throughout the week rely largely on chutes, where some are weighed, and IF THEY’VE GOT GOOD FOOD customers who aren’t in the livestock then herd them into the ring. The auc- AND GOOD SERVICE, business. Set against a backdrop of tioneer announces a starting figure a dense East Texas forest, the Cat- and rolls into that familiar continuous PEOPLE COME.” tle Barn Restaurant at the Anderson auction patter as he tries to escalate the takes a seat at the Amarillo Stock- County Livestock Auction in Elkhart price among the buyers, who motion yards Café, located inside the auction draws plenty of regulars who are more subtle hand signals to make bids. building. “There’s always been a group interested in the restaurant’s daily At mealtimes, café waitresses filter of people who come here, not just cattle buffet specials than buying or selling through the crowd to take orders and people. It’s bankers, insurance people, cows. In a back corner of the wood- deliver plates to buyers who don’t want salesmen, truckers. If they’ve got good paneled dining room, Gary Wynne to miss a moment of the bidding. The food and good service, people come.” hangs out at a table labeled with a sign Clockwise from top left: In Elkhart, auctions are open to anybody to ob- Missy Treadway has run the Ama- reading “Reserved for grumpy old men.” the table for Gary Wynne and his late serve, and visitors can also head out- rillo Stockyards Café since 2013, and Wynne has been visiting the Cat- friend Calvin Carter, aka “preacher;” tle Barn almost daily since he retired side to explore the catwalks that ex- she worked for the restaurant when lunch at the auction in San Angelo; tend over the livestock holding pens. her mother owned it from 1990 to from running his own barbecue joint cook Juan Leal at the Stockman’s Few people know their way around 2002. Photos on the café walls reflect in 2006. At one point, he started help- in San Angelo; cattle sale at West ing out when the restaurant’s two Auction Inc. employees got busy. Now he pitches in regularly, folding napkins, brew- AMARILLO ing tea, and wiping down tables. He for drivers. Along with cattle auction old-fashioned counter with five stools. care for her grandchildren. Gregory WEST ESSENTIALS: SAN ANGELO ELKHART takes his payment in meals, which the customers, the West Stockyard Cafe A signed photo of Robert Duvall and is all business when it comes to mak- STOCKYARD CAFÉS restaurant serves buffet-style. Partic- is popular with truckers because of Tommy Lee Jones duded up in their ing sure her customers have what they ularly popular are chicken-fried steak its interstate access and large parking cowboy gear from Lonesome Dove con- need. And she keeps a close eye on Stockyard cafés typically Wednesdays and fried catfish Fridays. lot. “One trucker told me it’s the best tributes to the Old West atmosphere the food that the cooks place in the Stockman’s Restaurant US 287 and SH 294, stay open late on auction “It’s mainly to get away from the place to stop between the Rio Grande of the cafe, which sits near the route kitchen window. is at the Producers Livestock in Elkhart. Hours: days, until the sale is over: Auction, 1131 N. Bell St., Mon-Fri 6:30 a.m.-2 p.m. house, you know,” says Wynne, who and the Red River because you can go of the historic Chisholm Trail. The “I look at it this way,” she says, “if in San Angelo. Hours: Mon- Cattle sale is noon Wed. wears a baseball cap from one of his downhill both ways from this loca- cowboy scene feels most authentic on I’ll eat it, I’ll serve it.” The Amarillo Stockyards Fri 6 a.m.-2 p.m. Sheep 903-516-2750. former businesses, Handyman & Hon- tion,” says Ted Uptmore Sr., who owns Thursdays, when cattlemen show up Café is at the Amarillo and goat sale is 9 a.m. Tue. ey-Dos. “If I stay at the house all the the auction barn and the restaurant before the start of the cattle auction for “In Amarillo I met some tourists from Livestock Auction, 100 S. Cattle sale is 9 a.m. Thu. The Stockyard Cafe time, I get depressed. So I come here to with his wife, Adele. The Uptmores lunches of roast beef, shepherd’s pie, Berlin who came to have this Texana Manhattan St. Hours: 325-653-3371. is at the West Auction, help out and talk to my friends.” four sons all contribute to the opera- and barbecue sausage. experience firsthand,” says freelance Mon-Sat 6 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 20645 N. I-35 in West. Friends and family also run deep tion of the auction barn, as do some of Waitress Joyce Gregory has worked photographer Erich Schlegel. Watch and Fri 5-9 p.m. Cattle The Cattle Barn Hours: Tue-Fri 6 a.m.-1 p.m. in West, where the red-and-tan West their grandchildren. at the West Stockyard Cafe for 17 years, for TH Associate Editor Matt Joyce’s sale is 11 a.m. Mon. Restaurant is at the Cattle sale is 11:30 a.m. Thu. Auction Inc. building sits on a rise Inside, the West Stockyard Cafe though she only works two days a story on Big Bend’s mining history in amarillostockyardscafe.com; Anderson County Livestock 254-826-3460. 806-373-7999. Auction, at the corner of along Interstate 35, a familiar sight features a small dining room with an week now, her free time spent helping the November issue.

56 texashighways.com OCTOBER 2017 57 The Big Empty solitary adventures on the road less traveled

By Wes Ferguson

Photo: Kevin Stillman Photo: Kevin Stillman 44 texashighways.com Photo: © Kenny Braun NOVEMBER 2017 45 Some know it as the Rolling Plains. Others call it Cowboy Alley. A land of open road and enormous sky, the Big Empty lies more or less north of Abilene and east of Lubbock. Larger than some states,

with a population smaller than t’s a kind of place you drive through to get somewhere else,” says Reed Underwood, a native son who recom- mends slowing down to have a look around. Rick Perry is from there. So was Bob Wills, the king of It felt almost luxurious many urban zip codes, Western Swing. The region stretches between the West- Iern Cross Timbers in the east, to the Caprock Escarpment in to roll the windows down, the west, and the Red River valley in the north. The Big Emp- the seldom-traveled chunk ty’s southern boundary is harder to define, but it’s somewhere smell the sweet grass, north of the similarly named “Big Country” region around Abilene. Though definitive population counts don’t exist for and listen to nothing the unofficial region, local sources say it’s somewhere around of prairie is home to red-dirt farms 20,000. but the crunch of gravel, To get there from most urban centers in Texas, drive prac- tically to the Panhandle. When you don’t see anything, stop. the hum of cicadas, and and huge ranches, from the Pitchfork I hit the highway in late July, heading west by northwest out of Fort Worth. When the scrub forests of the Cross Tim- the occasional rumble bers fell into my rearview, I ventured like some modern-day and Matador to the Four Sixes. pioneer onto the boundless prairie—except that I was burn- over cattle guards. ing asphalt at 75 miles per hour where Comanche and bison once roamed. This was the Big Empty. And, boy, was it empty. I sped past red dirt and green fields, rows of cotton and other crops, nary another car on the road. For a person who grew up in the shade of the Piney Woods, I find few sights quite as thrilling as the Opening spread: Caprock Canyons State Park and Trailway lies along the western edge of the Llano Estacado; immense views of the West. Overhead, the sun shone brightly, This spread: A cowboy rides across the open prairie but the highway led into the path of a silvery storm cloud that 3 miles west of Benjamin; founders of the town of Matador billowed above the horizon. From the solitary cloud, four or named it after the Matador Ranch.

Photo: Kevin Stillman 46 texashighways.com Photos: © Wyman Meinzer (left), © Kenny Braun NOVEMBER 2017 47 Double Mountain, Underwood has moved away from the Big Empty and served the once-bustling Bomarton commu- elevation approxi- as well, but he is still sorting through the odd feel- nity. From 598 residents shortly before World War mately 2,500 feet, ing of being from a place he believes to be dying. II, the population plummeted to 15 at the turn of the lies 13 miles south- My first afternoon in the Big Empty, I drove down millennium. In 2010, the U.S. Census didn’t even west of Aspermont in Stonewall Coun- the quiet highway toward the town of Goree—for- register Bomarton as a place. ty; Bob Wills’ tour merly 640 people, now 208—when a stately brick Overgrown shrubbery all but obscured the front bus at his namesake church caught my eye. Its steeple sprouted out from doors of the church. A handwritten sign nailed to museum in Turkey. behind hugely overgrown shrubs. St. John Catho- the door read: “This was a house of God and still lic Church, I later learned, was established in 1908 is.” Another note posted to a support beam just

Long-abandoned barns and farmhouses dotted the prairie, as did the remains of tiny ghost towns where farmers once congregated to do business, attend church, and send their children to school.

five sheets of rain fell on the grassland. The first drops hit my windshield a half-hour later. Within minutes, I’d passed right through. Long-abandoned barns and farmhouses dotted the prairie, as did the remains of tiny ghost towns where farmers once congregated to do business, attend church, and send their children to school. They reminded me of a conversation with Underwood before my trip. I had reached out to him because he recently completed a master’s thesis at the University of North Texas on the Big Empty. A native of O’Brien, population 102, where his father was the six-man football coach, Underwood says the region’s population has fallen every decade since 1930. Else- where, Texas is growing fast, but the pop- ulations of some of the Big Empty’s 10 or so counties have shriveled to one quarter the size of their numbers in the heyday of the early- to mid-20th century. This largely “featureless” region has no buildings taller than two or three sto- ries, according to Underwood. “Rather, its landscapes are by and large testa- ments to abandonment,” he writes in his thesis, going on to describe the “empty storefronts on quiet town squares, overgrown schoolyards made redundant through successive consolidations, tum- bledown empty farmhouses melting into the red clay.” When the area’s high school seniors receive their diplomas, he adds, “most of them keep marching out of town to look for opportunity elsewhere.”

Photo: Kevin Stillman Photo: Kevin Stillman 48 texashighways.com Photos: © Kenny Braun; Illustration by Margaret Kimball NOVEMBER 2017 49 inside the empty cathedral seconded the point: Reservoir. I hadn’t brought my fishing pole, but I Right: A lightning A breeze rippled across the blue lake. Overhead, armadas “Not Abandoned.” did have a pair of swim trunks. About 16 miles east storm in King of stratocumulus marched past swirls of cirrus. The reser- Moving on to Munday, which at 1,324 people is of town, past white rows of enormous wind tur- County, off voir had only recently filled to capacity after the most recent one of the area’s more sizeable towns, I checked into bines, the 2,212-acre lake is accessible by a maze of US 82; Below: drought. “Two years ago, the lake was dry,” Simon said. “The Visitors to Cap- the American Star Inn, managed by Cindy Patch- dirt roads through mesquite thickets that lead to rock Canyons water was just 1 foot deep.” ett. Her husband previously lived in Munday, and free campsites along the bank. may spy members Sleek, black cows lowed from a safe distance as I eased into the two moved back while their children attended Nobody seemed to be at the reservoir, except for of the Official the bracingly cool water. Floating on my back, I couldn’t tell school. “At first the kids hated it,” she said. “Now they two brothers-in-law named Daniel and Simon who Texas State which drifted faster: the clouds or me. Later, as the sun set, won’t leave. They’re raising their own children here.” tended a grill while their wives and a son played Bison Herd. strobes of lightning burst far beyond the lake’s eastern shore. And what is there to see and do around here? in the water. They offered me a sausage wrap and In the morning, I would begin my search for a dead man. “The lake,” she answered. “And… the lake.” a grilled pork chop. Between their broken English That weekend, some of her guests had caught and my broken Spanish, I learned Daniel works in a mess of catfish from nearby Millers Creek the oilfield and Simon is a cotton farmer. The late author and Texas Christian University professor Jim Corder came up with the name for the Big Empty. A genre-defying scholar of postmodern rhetoric, Corder first used the term in print in his memoir Lost in West Texas, published in 1988 when he was 59. Corder grew up in Jayton, an hour’s drive west of Munday and 90 miles east of Lubbock. “The territory I love out there is not much chron- icled,” he writes in Lost in West Texas, going on to lovingly describe geographic features of the Big Empty like Double Mountain, “blue above the broken plains surrounding them,” and the Croton Breaks, a “great empty space” of rugged badlands eroded into sharp washes. “The earth opens itself up in layers there,” he writes, “and each rock that falls after an age’s pushing from the side of a gully reveals another surprise.” As I drove past Double Mountain, its humps seemed less blue than red and green, blotched white by gypsum, a salty mineral common to the region. To my frustration, I couldn’t catch a glimpse of the Croton Breaks from the flat prairie highway connecting Jayton and Spur. However, my map revealed

I ventured like some modern-day pioneer onto the boundless prairie—except that I was burning asphalt at 75 miles per hour where Comanche and bison once roamed.

Photo: Kevin Stillman Photo: Kevin Stillman 50 texashighways.com Photos: © Kenny Braun, © Wyman Meinzer (top) NOVEMBER 2017 51 Clockwise from left: Croton Breaks’ badlands Linda Roy, the sibling on duty the week I stopped by. “There topography encompasses 250 square miles below wasn’t even a roof.” Roy and her sisters beautifully restored the escarpment of the Llano Estacado; the Dairy and elegantly furnished the brick building. The Texas law- Bar in Crowell serves up old-fashioned burgers; men-themed guest room tempted me but sunset was still a Copper Breaks State Park covers nearly 1,900 acres in Hardeman County, 9 miles north of Crowell. few hours away, so I drove 45 miles to Caprock Canyons State Park and Trailway. That night, the Caprock’s dramatic bluffs glowed red as the sun fell behind them. In the morning, the park’s herd of shaggy American bison frolicked, snorted, and head-butted one another in the cool air as it blew across the badlands. I had come to the western edge of the Big Empty, at the Cap- rock Escarpment. Instead of continuing up the scarp and onto the High Plains, I turned back. The road led to the town of Turkey, which is home to not only the historic Hotel Turkey but also an annual festival in April celebrating hometown leg- end Bob Wills, complete with live Western Swing music and lawnmower races.

Farther east, during a stop at Copper Breaks State Park the next morning, longtime interpretive ranger Carl Hopper encouraged me to keep an eye out for the park’s namesake mineral. “The park is plumb full of copper,” he says. Sure

evidence of the breaks via a network of riotously squiggly roads immediately to the east. The map’s little county roads seemed to pass a series of canyons with evocative names like Dark and Getaway. I had a full tank of gas, and nobody was waiting for “The earth opens me. Why not turn off the main highway and get lost for a while? Life is normally so busy. It felt almost luxurious to roll the windows down, smell the sweet grass, and itself up in layers listen to nothing but the crunch of gravel, the hum of cicadas, and the occasional rumble over cattle guards. A particularly high overlook revealed miles of rugged there,” he writes, landscape where red canyons gashed the low green hills. The road dropped dramat- ically into country so eroded that it rivaled the desert floors of the Big Bend, practi- “and each rock cally halfway across Texas, for its rough beauty. The path rose and fell as it looped around sharp turns through gullies and washes. that falls after an I could have spent the day exploring these backroads, but they eventually became too rough for my crossover SUV, and so I turned around. Once when Corder was age’s pushing from asked where he hoped to end up when he died, he responded that he would just as soon go to the Croton Breaks. As I drove out of the badlands, Corder’s wish seemed the side of a gully to make sense. For those who prefer travel on pavement, you can also glimpse the Croton Breaks reveals another from the freeway just east of Dickens. The town is a half-hour’s drive north of Jay- ton and 20 miles south of the Roaring Springs Ranch Club, once a favorite camping surprise.” spot of the Comanche. Now a private, member-owned club, Roaring Springs allows members to camp, fish, ride ATVs, and cool off where a spring-fed waterfall supplies a gloriously chilly, 3-acre swimming pool. Continuing north through quiet country from Roaring Springs, I came to the town of Matador, named for the legendary ranch. Here, three sisters have reopened a 1914-era hotel called the Hotel Matador. “When we got it, the place was junked,” says

Photo: Kevin Stillman 52 texashighways.com Photos: © Kenny Braun NOVEMBER 2017 53 “West Texas sunsets are gorgeous,” Scott says. “Nothing like ’em. And you can actually see them! We don’t have All the big trees in the way.”

mesquite. The ranch is also on the migration path of Monarch butterflies, she says. As Scott drove, it became apparent that we had reached the edge of a small plateau. Rolling ranchland spread for miles and miles. Scott pointed out the property line she shares with the approximately 535,000-acre Waggoner Ranch, the largest ranch under one fence in Texas. The view would have been majestic right before twilight. “West Texas sunsets are gorgeous,” Scott says. “Nothing like ’em. And you can actually see them! We don’t have all the big trees in the way as in other parts of Texas.” The Big Empty seemed anything but empty. So why do so few people know about it? Wyman Meinzer has an idea. Raised a cowboy on a Big Empty ranch, he spent a few years trapping furs in the area and is now the official photographer of the state of Texas. He has taken photographs throughout the state, but his primary subject—his life’s work—is documenting the Big Empty. He captures images of cowboys and critters, scalded river breaks, and endless sunrises. enough, the greenish patina of oxidized copper owned the unassuming roadside joint for 17 years. Clockwise from seemed to paint many of the loose rocks on a trail While they have no idea how old it is, they do know it left: Mammatus “This is a land that you have to become a participant in,” he says. overlooking the park lake. was moved to its current location in the early 1960s. clouds reflect the “It’s not going to jump up and hit you in the face. You have to be- Copper Breaks was the first state park in Texas The Dairy Bar’s burger hit the spot. “They aren’t setting sun after a come part of it. You have to stop, look and see, and imagine.” storm passes over to earn an international dark sky rating, Hopper healthy,” Jeff says. “A good, old-fashioned greasy Fifty miles southwest of Meinzer’s home in Benjamin, Double Knox County; a Mountain rises from the broken prairie. says, claiming that his night skies are darker than burger is what I do.” wild boar crosses those found at the McDonald Observatory in the The following morning, in the Vera community the highway west On cold and still mornings, Meinzer says he can see the Dou- Davis Mountains. Taking advantage of the absence 40 miles southeast of Crowell, Ranell Scott and I of Benjamin; the bles in the distance. Side by side, they seem to float in the sky. And of light pollution, the nearby Three Rivers Foun- loaded into her white pickup truck and drove across Roaring Springs there’s a road, little traveled, leading toward them. Ranch Club offers dation for the Arts and Sciences offers star parties land that has been in her family for more than 100 For visitor information, call Caprock Canyons State Park at 806- members a place 455-1492; and Copper Breaks State Park at 940-839-4331. For res- once a month at its Comanche Springs Astronomy years. Scott runs Ranger Creek Ranch, a cattle oper- to camp and swim. Campus west of Crowell. ation and hunting lodge with several guest houses. ervations, call American Star Inn at 940-422-5542; Roaring Springs After hiking the Copper Breaks trail, I had When Scott stopped to open a metal gate, two Ranch Club at 806-348-7292; and Hotel Matador at 806-347-2939. worked up an appetite. Because so few people live jackrabbits fell in with a muster of turkeys and in the Big Empty, restaurants options are limited. bounded across an open field. A family of wild Kilgore native Wes Ferguson is author of The Blanco River and Luckily, I came across the Dairy Bar in Crowell. Jeff hogs rooted nearby. Quail waddled in front of Running the River: Secrets of the Sabine. Christopher and his wife, Karen Christopher, have Scott’s truck, and roadrunners sprinted among the