Quick viewing(Text Mode)

Cruise Ports Caribbean 1

Cruise Ports Caribbean 1

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Cruise Ports From mountain peaks to shimmering reefs, spicy salsa rhythms to deep rolling reggae, pirate hideouts to sugar-sand beaches, the Caribbean is a dizzyingly diverse region to explore on a cruise ship. Cruise the Caribbean and discover a joyous mosaic of islands beckoning paradise hunters. It’s a lively and intoxicating profusion of people and places spread over 7000 islands (fewer than 10% are inhabited). But, for all they share, there’s also CRUISE PORTS much that makes them different. Can there be a greater contrast than the bustling capital of San Juan in and the largely undeveloped hideaway of St John in the US Virgin Islands? Or between booming British-oriented St Kitts and its sleepy Dutch-affiliated neighbor , CARIBBEAN just across a narrow channel? Set sail on azure seas and dock near dazzling white beaches and verdant forests so vivid you’ll need sunglasses to avoid hurting the eyes. Dive below the waters for a color chart of darting fish and corals. Feel the sand between your toes at any one of a thousand picture-perfect beaches. A GUIDE TO PERFECT DAYS ON SHORE Outdoor- adventure enthusiasts make a beeline for unspoilt islands such as nature-lovers’ near St Kitts or the diving around Grand Cayman and Curaçao. You can find any kind of island adventure here. You can choose to relax on the sand or the ship, party at a resort, explore a new community, hop between islands, discover wonders under the water or catch a perfect wave above, revel in a centuries-old culture (and sway to some of the world’s greatest music while you’re at it), and then run off to find your inner pirate… Just about anything is possible in the Caribbean.

Joshua Kinser, Ray Bartlett, Paul Clammer, Alex Egerton, Cruise the Caribbean and discover Anna Kaminski, Catherine Le Nevez, Hugh McNaughtan, a joyous mosaic of islands Liza Prado, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Regis St Louis, beckoning paradise hunters Mara Vorhees, Luke Waterson, Karla Zimmerman NATHAN BAI/SHUTTERSTOCK © 2 0 100 km 0 500 km 0 50 miles e# 0 250 miles

British Virgin Islands Anegada (UK) ST-MARTIN/ Charlotte ST MAARTEN Amalie ^# (UK) #\] The Valley p185 #]#\ ^# Tortola ^# Contents #\ St Marigot FLORIDA A T L A N T I C Thomas ^# (USA) ^# O C E A N Philipsburg ^#Gustavia Little St-Barthélemy ContentsPlan Your ������������������������� Trip 2 Cozumel 69 Bahamas 113 Abaco (NETH) #\Codrington Grand ^# (FR) Windwardside & Top 12 ������������������������ 4 ....at a Glance 70 ...at a Glance 114 Bahama St Croix ^# Barbuda #\ Great Oranjestad BARBUDA Hot Spots for... ��������16 Freeport Abaco Sint Eustatius (NETH) #_ Mayan Ruins Nassau Beaches ������ 116 BAHAMAS St Kitts Nevis ST JOHN'S Need to Know ����������18 #] ^# #_ at Tulum ���������������������72 Nassau GULF OF MIAMI p33 p113 US VIRGIN ANTIGUA p229 Month by Month �����20 ST KITTS & Charlestown Driving the Historic Walk ����������� 118 Nicholls NASSAU ISLANDS Get Inspired ������������ 23 #\ Eleuthera NEVIS p171 a Town #_ Coastal Road ��������������74 Lucayan d p153 Plymouth ^# Choose Your ri #\ lo Andros Cat F Andros Diving & Snorkeling ����76 National Park �����������120 of Town Island Cruise ��������������������� 24 its Island San (UK) La Désirade SAN MIGUEL NASSAU ��������������������� 122 Stra E x Basse- Sustainable u Salvador m Terre #] Pointe-a-Pitre DE COZUMEL �������������� 80 FREEPORT ������������������ 126 a Cruising ������������������ 28 C Long #_ a Sights ��������������������������� 80 ys Island Basse-Terre ^# (FR) Family Time Crooked Eating ��������������������������� 80 Island Ashore ��������������������30 Drinking & Nightlife ������ 81 Puerto Rico 131 Acklins ....at a Glance 132 Island Grand Providenciales MEXICO Isla de la Turk San Juan National Juventud Great #_ TOWN 85 Inagua ...at a Glance 86 Historic Site �������������134 Matthew #\ TURKS & CAICOS Town El Yunque National COZUMEL p69 p203 Cayman Seven Mile Beach ����� 88 Forest ������������������������136 Grand Brac Snorkeling with Cayman Miami 33 Old San Juan #_ Little Wildlife ���������������������� 90 GEORGE TOWN Cayman See Enlargement ...at a Glance 34 Historic Walk �����������140 DOMINICAN GEORGE TOWN ������������92 SAN JUAN ������������������ 142 CAYMAN ISLANDS Falmouth REPUBLIC San Juan Art Deco Miami ��������� 36 ^# ^# ^# Sights ����������������������������92 p85 #\ Ocho Rios #_ #_ Sights �������������������������� 142 Montego Art Deco Activities & Tours ���������92 PORT-AU- SANTO Activities ��������������������� 145 Bay #_ KINGSTON PRINCE DOMINGO Walking Tour ��������������38 Shopping ����������������������95 Tours ��������������������������� 146 PUERTO RICO Wynwood Walls ��������� 40 Eating ����������������������������96 p131 Shopping �������������������� 146 p99 Wildlife-Watching Eating ���������������������������147 in the Everglades ������ 42 Jamaica 99 Drinking & Nightlife ���� 148 Sights ����������������������������44 ...at a Glance 100 Entertainment ������������ 149 Activities �����������������������53 #_ CARIBBEAN Tours �����������������������������53 Dunn’s River Falls ����102 SEA Fort-de- ^# Shopping ����������������������54 (FR) France Montego Bay US Virgin Eating ����������������������������55 Beaches ��������������������104 CURAÇAO ST LUCIA #_CASTRIES Islands 153 p255 Drinking & Nightlife ������ 61 FALMOUTH ����������������106 ...at a Glance 154 ST VINCENT & Entertainment ��������������62 OCHO RIOS ���������������� 107 THE GRENADINES #_ #_ p213 Where to Stay ���������������67 MONTEGO BAY ����������109 St John Island ����������156 p243 #_ p269 ST GEORGE'S #_ Tobago ^# Scarborough In September 2017 the Caribbean was hit by two Category 5 hurricanes (p300). While #_ TRINIDAD & Trinidad TOBAGO we have endeavoured to keep the information in this book as up-to-date as possible, #_ CARACAS PORT-OF- SAN JOSÉ #_ SPAIN some places may still be affected while the communities rebuild. COLOMBIA #_PANAMA VENEZUELA CITY

#_ Contents PLAN YOUR TRIP 3 *

St Thomas’ Aruba 213 Sights ��������������������������248 Best Beaches �����������160 ...at a Glance 214 Activities ���������������������248 Water Island �������������162 Shopping ������������������� 250 CHARLOTTE AMALIE ���164 Arikok National Eating & Drinking ������ 250 Sights �������������������������� 164 Wildlife Park ������������216 Activities & Tours ������� 165 Aruba’s Top Shopping ��������������������166 Beaches ��������������������218 Curaçao 255 Eating ��������������������������166 Oranjestad ...at a Glance 256 Drinking & Nightlife ���� 168 Historic Walk ���������� 220 ORANJESTAD �������������222 Curaçao’s Sights ��������������������������222 Best Beaches ���������� 258 St Kitts & Nevis 171 Activities & Tours �������224 Highlights of ....at a Glance 172 Shopping ��������������������224 Old ������� 260 Eating & Drinking �������225 WILLEMSTAD �������������262 Highlights of Sights ��������������������������262 St Kitts ��������������������� 174 Tours ���������������������������265 Day Trip to Nevis ����� 176 Antigua 229 Shopping ��������������������265 BASSETERRE, ...at a Glance 230 Eating & Drinking ������ 266 ST KITTS ��������������������� 178 CHARLESTOWN, Historic English NEVIS �������������������������� 182 Harbour ������������������� 232 Barbados 269 West Coast ...at a Glance 270 Beaches ������������������� 234 St-Martin/ ST JOHN’S ����������������� 236 Best Barbados Sights ������������������������� 236 Beaches ��������������������272 185 Activities & Tours �������237 Bridgetown ...at a Glance 186 Shopping ������������������� 239 Historic Walk �����������274 St-Martin/Sint Maarten Eating & Drinking ������ 239 BRIDGETOWN ������������276 Beaches ��������������������188 Sights ��������������������������276 Philipsburg Activities & Tours �������276 Historic Walk �����������192 Bonaire 243 Shopping ��������������������279 PHILIPSBURG, ....at a Glance 244 Eating & Drinking �������279 SINT MAARTEN ���������194 Snorkeling & MARIGOT, Kayaking ������������������ 246 ST-MARTIN ���������������� 200 ��������������248

Turks & Caicos 203 ...at a Glance 204 In Focus 283 Survival Guide 304 Grand Turk’s Caribbean Today ������ 284 Directory A–Z �����������305 Best Beaches ���������� 206 History ����������������������286 Transport �������������������310 COCKBURN TOWN ��� 208 Caribbean Index ��������������������������313 Sights ������������������������� 208 Cultures ��������������������294 Symbols & Activities �������������������� 209 Environment �������������299 Map Key ���������������������319 Eating ��������������������������210 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 312 Behind the Scenes

Acknowledgements This Book Climate map data adapted from Peel This 1st edition of Lonely Planet’s Cruise Ports Caribbean MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA guidebook was curated by Joshua Kinser and researched (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the and written by Ray Bartlett, Paul Clammer, Alex Egerton, Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Anna Kaminski, Catherine Le Nevez, Hugh McNaughtan, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, Liza Prado, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Regis St Louis, Mara 11, 163344. Vorhees, Luke Waterson and Karla Zimmerman. This guide- Cover photograph: Half Moon Cay, book was produced by the following: Bahamas, Richard Cummins, Getty©. Destination Editor Bailey Freeman Product Editors Paul Harding, Elizabeth Jones Graphic Designer Campbell McKenzie Senior Cartographer Corey Hutchison Book Designers Virginia Moreno, Clara Monitto Assisting Editors Gabrielle Stefanos, Ross Taylor Assisting Book Designer Nicholas Colicchia Thanks to Liz Heynes, Simon Hoskins, Valentina Kremen- chutskaya, Kate Mathews, Lauren O’Connell, Trisha Ping, Juan Winata

Send Us Your Feedback

We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guar- antee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition, the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and sug- gestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments repro- duced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd A–B INDEX 313

Baño Grande 137 Governor’s Beach Index Barbados 8, 269-81, 271 (Grand Cayman) 88 highlights 272-3 Governor’s Beach A history 293 (Grand Turk) 206 Grand Case 189 activities 20-2, see also itineraries 270 individual activities transportation 271 Grand Turk 206-7 Anhinga Trail 42-3 Barbados Synagogue 276 Great Bay Beach 188-9 animals 301-2, see also bargaining 308 Grote Knip 259 individual animals, wildlife baseball 298 Hermitage Bay 234 Antigua 14, 229-41, 231 Basseterre 175, 178-82, 179 Honeymoon Beach (St John) 158 highlights 232-5 Bathsheba Beach 272 Honeymoon Beach itineraries 230 Batts Rock Beach 273 (Water Island) 162 transportation 231 beaches 16 Hull Bay 161 Antigua 22 Antigua 234-5 Beach 116-17 Arashi Beach 219 Arashi Beach 219 Kenepa Beach 259 Arawaks 287-8 Aruba 16, 218-19 Klein Bonaire 248 archaeological sites Balneario Escambrón 142 Lindquist Beach 160 El Cedral 80 Barbados 16, 272-3 Little Bay Beach 190 Tulum 72-3 Bathsheba 272-3 Magens Bay 160-1 architecture 36-7, 38-9, 44-5 Batts Rock Beach 273 Montego Bay 104-5 area codes 309 Boca Prins 217 Mullet Bay 189 Arikok National Brownes Beach 272 Nassau 116-17 Wildlife Park 216-17 Cable Beach 117 Nevis 177 art deco 36-7, 38-9, 44-5 Cas Abao 258 Orient Bay Beach 190 arts 296 Cemetery Beach 89 Palm Beach 219 Aruba 10, 213-27, 215 Cockleshell Beach 174 Paradise Island 117 highlights 216-19 Coki Point Beach 161 Pebbles Beach 272 history 222 Curaçao 258-9 Pillory Beach 206 itineraries 214 Darkwood Beach 235 Pinney’s Beach 177 transportation 215 Dead End Beach 105 Playa Kalki 259 ATMs 307 Delaporte Beach 117 Playa Palancar 75 Doctor’s Cave Beach 104 Playa Porto Mari 259 Dos Playa 217 Rockley Beach 273 B Druif Beach 218 Seven Mile Beach 88-9 Bahamas 113-29, 115 Eagle Beach 218-19 Spotts Beach 90 highlights 116-17, 120-1 East Side Beach 207 St Kitts 174 itineraries 114 Ffryes Beach 235 St-Martin/Sint Maarten 16, transportation 115 Friar’s Bay Beach 190 188-91 Baño de Oro 137 Gibbs Cay 207 St Thomas 160-1 Gold Rock Beach 121 Sun Ray Beach 207 000 Map pages 314 INDEX B–D beaches continued Fort Amsterdam 262 cruise-ship history 291 Surfside Beach 219 Fort Berkeley 233 Cuartel de Ballajá 143 Valley Church Beach 234 Fort James 236 Cuba 285 Walter Fletcher Beach 105 Fort Louis 200 cultural centers bicycle travel, see cycling Fort Oranje 248 Brickell City Centre 48 Big Tree Trail 138 Fort Segarra 163 culture 284-5, 294-8 Biltmore Hotel 49-50 Fort Zoutman 222 Bahamas 127 birdwatching 138, 183, 199, Fuerte San Cristóbal 135 Caquetio people 222 251, 302 caves Cayman Islands 97 Blackbeard’s Castle 164 Arikok National Park 217 Curaçao 266 Blue Curaçao 267 Hato Caves 265 St-Martin/Sint Maarten 197 Bonaire 8, 243-53, 245 Lucayan National Curaçao 7, 255-67, 257 highlights 246-7 Park 120-1 217 highlights 258-9 history 252 Cayman Islands 12, 85-97 itineraries 256 itineraries 244 highlights 88-91 transportation 257 transportation 245 itineraries 86 currencies 18, 307 books 23, 288, 296 transportation 87 customs regulations 305 botanicas 52 cell phones 18, 308 cycling 310 Brickell City Centre 48 Charlestown 177, 182-3 Antigua 239 Bridgetown 274-5, 276-81, 278 Charlotte Amalie 164-9, 165 Grand Cayman 92 Brimstone Hill Fortress National children, travel with 30-1 Park 174-5 Christianity 295 D Brownes Beach 272 Christmas Rebellion 109 dangers, see safety budgeting 19 churches Darkwood Beach 235 bus travel 310-11 Immaculate Conception Dead End Beach 105 business hours 19, 308 Cathedral 178 Delaporte Beach 117 Butterfly Farm 223-4 St George’s Anglican Church disabilities, travelers with 309 178 diving & snorkeling 16 cigars 122-3, 147 Aruba 224 C climate 18, 20-2, 284, 305 calypso 297 Barbados 273 climate change 311 Captain Don Stewart 248 Bonaire 16, 246-7, 249-50 Cockburn Town 208-11, 209 Caquetío people 222 Cozumel 76-9 Cockleshell Beach 174 car travel 311 Grand Cayman 16, 90-1, 92-3 Coki Point Beach 161 Carlisle Bay Marine Reserve 273 Grand Turk 16, 209, 210 Columbus, Christopher 288-9 20-1 San Juan 146 consulates 305 Cas Abao 258 St John 158 Cozumel 15, 69-83, 71 Casa Blanca 142-3 St Kitts 175, 179, 180 coastal road 74-5 castles & forts St-Martin/Sint Maarten 190, Blackbeard’s Castle 164 highlights 72-9 195, 196 Brimstone Hill Fortress history 82 St Thomas 166 National Park 174-5 itineraries 70 Stingray City 90-1 El Morro 134-5 transportation 71 USS Kittiwake 91 credit cards 307 Doctor’s Cave Beach 104 cricket 238, 279, 298 000 Map pages Donkey Sanctuary 224 cruise lines 24-7 D–K INDEX 315

Dos Playa 217 Friar’s Bay Beach 190 Cozumel 82 drinks Fuerte San Cristóbal 135 cruise industry 291 Bahamas 122 Full Moon Drum Circle 61 Curaçao 17 Barbados 280 Jamaica 109, 292 Blue Curaçao 267 G Puerto Rico 17 water 306-7 gay travelers 27, 148, 306 St Kitts 178 Druif Beach 218 geography 299-300 St-Martin/Sint Maarten 196 Dunn’s River Falls 102-3 geology 299-300 Turks & Caicos 211 George Town 92-7, 94 holidays 308 E Gibbs Cay 207 Honeymoon Beach (St John) Eagle Beach 218-19 Gold Rock Beach 121 158, 162-3 East Side Beach 207 golf 189 Honeymoon Beach (Water economy 225, 284-5, 292-3 Governor’s Beach Island) 162 El Morro 134-5 (Grand Cayman) 88 Hull Bay 161 El Yunque National Forest 136-9 Governor’s Beach hurricanes 142, 284, 300-1 El Yunque Trail 138 (Grand Turk) 206 electricity 305 Grand Case 189 I embassies 305 Grand Cayman 12, 85-97, 87 iguanas 93 English Harbour 232-3 Grand Turk 13, 206-7, 205 insurance 307 environment 299-303 Grand Turk Lighthouse 208 internet access 307 Aruba 226 Grote Knip 259 internet resources 19, 25 Bonaire 251 Curaçao 263 H J environmental issues 28-9, Hamilton Estate Ruins 182 Jamaica 99-111, 101 169, 303 health 306-7 highlights 102-5 etiquette 305-6 Hermitage Bay 234 history 109, 292 events 20-2 hiking itineraries 100 Everglades National Park 42-3 El Yunque National Park 137-8 transportation 101 exchange rates 307 St John Island 156-8 Jamaica Carnival 21 historic buildings Jewish Cultural-Historical F Bath Hotel 182 Museum 263 Falmouth 106-7, 292 Biltmore Hotel 49-51 Judaism 295 family travel 30-1 Casa Blanca 142 Junkanoo 22 festivals 20-2 Cuartel de Ballajá 143 Junkanoo Beach 116-17 Ffryes Beach 235 Dr Eloy Arends House 223 films 23, 296 Falmouth Courthouse 106 K fishing 92, 128 General Post Office kayaking flora 302-3 (Cockburn Town) 208-9 Bonaire 246-7 food 58 La Fortaleza 142 Grand Cayman 15, 92 Bahamas 122 New World Center 44 Miami 53 Barbados 280 history 17, 286-93 San Juan 145 Miami 58 Antigua 17 St Thomas 165-6 forts, see castles & forts Barbados 293 Kenepa Beach 259 Freeport 126-9 Bonaire 252 kitesurfing 145 316 INDEX K–N

Klein Bonaire 248 measures 306 Jewish Museum of Kralendijk 248-53, 249 merengue 297 Florida-FIU 45 Miami 33-67, 34, 46, 50 Little Haiti Cultural Center 51 L accommodations 67 Lowe Art Museum 51 La Coca Falls 137 activities 53 Margulies Collection at the La Fortaleza 142 art deco Miami 36-7, 38-9 Warehouse 48-9 La Mina Trail 137 art walks 54 Musée de Saint Martin Antilles 200 languages 18 drinking & nightlife 61-2 Museo de la Isla legal matters 307 entertainment 62-3 de Cozumel 80 Leinster Bay 158 food 55-61 Museo de las Américas 143 LGBTIQ travelers 27, 148, 306 highlights 36-7, 40-3 Museum Kura Hulanda 262-3 lighthouses 208 itineraries 34 Museum of Antigua & medical services 63 Lincoln Road Mall 53 Barbuda 236-7 shopping 54 Lindquist Beach 160 Museum of Nevis History 182 sights 36-7, 40-3, 44-53 literature 296-8 National Art Gallery of the Little Bay Beach 190 tourist information 63 Bahamas 123 Little Haiti 52 tours 53-4 National Gallery of the Loterie Farm 196 travel to/from 35, 63-4 Cayman Islands 92 Lucayan National Park 120 travel within 64-5 National Museum (St Kitts) walks 38-9, 38-9 178 M Wynwood Walls 40-1 Nidhe Israel Museum 276 Magens Bay 160-1 mobile phones 18, 308 Patricia & Phillip Frost Maho Bay 158 money 18, 307-8 Museum of Science 47 Manchineel trees 301 monkeys 180, 302 Pérez Art Museum Miami 47 Marigot 200-1 Montego Bay 104-5, 109-11 Pirates of Nassau 123 marijuana 285 motorcycle travel 311 Salt House 209 markets Mt Britton Trail 138 Sint Maarten Museum 194 Cayman Craft Msrket 95 Mullet Bay 189 Terramar Museum 248 Curaçao 263, 266 museums & galleries That Yoda Guy Museum 194 Falmouth 108, 111 Art Deco Museum 44 Turks & Caicos National Museum 208 Floating Market (Willemstad) Aruba Archaeological 263 Museum 222 Vizcaya Museum & Gardens 51 Harbour Street Craft Bakehouse Art Complex 49 Market 111 Cayman National Museum 92 Wolfsonian-FIU 44 Nassau Straw Market 119 Curaçao Maritime music 23, 129, 166, 295, 297 Olde Craft Market 108 Museum 263-5 Old San Juan Farmers Curaçao Museum 265 N Market 146 Dow’s Hill Interpretation Nassau 118-19, 122-6, 124 Puerto Rican Arts & Centre 233 national & state parks Crafts 146 Gallery Alma Blou 265 Arikok National Wildlife Park St John’s Public Market 236 HistoryMiami 47 216-17 St-Martin Produce Market Horatio Nelson Museum 182 Bill Baggs Cape Florida State 200-1 Jewish Cultural-Historical Park 52 Museum 263 Brimstone Hill Fortress 000 Map pages National Park 174-5 N–S INDEX 317

El Yunque National Forest Pinney’s Beach 177 sea turtles 136-7 pirates 31, 289 Aruba 217, 219 Everglades National Park 42-3 Pirates of Nassau 123 Barbados 277, 281 Lucayan National Park 120-1 Pirates Week 22 Bonaire 248-9 Oleya River State Park 45 planning 18-19 Cayman Islands 90 Nelson’s Dockyard 232 cruise ships 24-7 Seven Mile Beach 88-9 Nevis 6, 171-83, 176-7 family travel 30-1 Shark Valley 43 highlights 176-7 sustainable cruising 28-9 shopping 17, 95, 308 itineraries 172 plants 302-3 Sint Maarten, see St-Martin/ transportation 173 Playa Kalki 259 Sint Maarten New World Center 44 Playa Palancar 75 Sir Vivian Richards Stadium 238 Playa Porto Mari 259 slavery 109, 252, 262-3, 285, O Plaza de Colón 143 289 Ocean Drive 44 politics 284-5 smoking 306 Ocho Rios 107-9, 292 population 285 snorkeling, see diving & snorkeling opening hours 19, 308 public holidays 308 spas 49 Oranjestad 220-1, 222-7, 223 Puerto Rico 15, 131-51, 133 sports 238, 298 Orient Bay Beach 190 highlights 134-9 Spring Break 20-1 itineraries 132 St John Island 11, 156-9 transportation 133 P St John’s (Antigua) 236-41, packing 19 237 St Kitts 6, 171-83, Palm Beach 219 235 Q highlights 174 Paradise Island 117 Queen Emma Bridge 262 history 178 Paradise Point Skyride 164 itineraries 172 parks & gardens transportation 173 Bayfront Park 48 R Raíces Fountain 143 St Kitts Carnival 22 Crandon Park 52-3 Rastafari 295 St Kitts Scenic Railway 178 Emancipation Garden 164-5 refunds 308 St-Martin/Sint Maarten 4-5, Fairchild Tropical Garden 49 reggae 297 185-201, 187 Garden of the Groves 127 Reggae Sumfest 22 highlights 206-7 Haulover Beach Park 47 religion 285, 295 history 211 Kampong 51 ripsaw 297 itineraries 204 Máximo Gómez Park 49 Rockley Beach 273 transportation 205 Miami Riverwalk 48 St Thomas 11, 160-1 Parque de las Palomas 145 Stewart, Captain Don 248 Parque Punta Sur 75 S stingers 306 Wilhelmina Park 223 safety 106, 149, 305 Stingray City 90-1 Paseo de la Princesa 143 Sam Sharpe Square 110 Sun Ray Beach 207 passports 308 San Juan 15, 134-5, 140-1, 142- 51, 305, 144 surfing 277 Pebbles Beach 272 San Juan National Historic Site Surfside Beach 219 peoples 294-5 134-5, 140-1 sustainable cruising 28-9 perfume factory 127 San Miguel de Cozumel 80-3, 81 swimming pools 53, 196 Philipsburg 192-3, 194-9, 195 scams 106 synagogues 276 Pillory Beach 206 318 INDEX T–Z

weather 18, 20-2, 284, 305 T V weights 306 tap water 306-7 vacations 308 whale-watching 210 taxes 308 Valley Church Beach 234 wi-fi 19 taxis 311 Vervet monkeys 180 wildlife 158, see also individual telephone services 18, 308-9 visas 310 species Thompson, Hunter S 151 Vodou 52 Barbados 281 time 309, 310 Bonaire 248-9, 251 tipping 307 W Cayman Islands 93 transportation 19, 310-11 walking tours Curaçao 263 travel seasons 27 art deco Miami Beach 38-9, Everglades 42-3 Tulum 15, 72-3 38-9 St Kitts & Nevis 180, 183 Turks & Caicos 13, 203-11, 205 art walks (Miami) 54, 54 St-Martin/Sint Maarten 199 highlights 206-7 Bridgetown 274-5, 274-5 Willemstad 260-1, 262-7, 264 history 211 Nassau 118-19, 118-19 women travelers 310 itineraries 204 Old San Juan 140-1, 140-1 Wynwood Walls 40-1 transportation 205 Oranjestad 220-1, 220-1 turtles, see sea turtles Philipsburg 192-3, 192-3 Y Willemstad 260-1, 260-1 yoga 53 U Walter Fletcher Beach 105 Yokahú Tower 138 US Virgin Islands 11, 153-69, 155 water, drinking 306-7 highlights 156-63 Water Island 162-3 Z itineraries 154 waterfalls ziplining 237-8 transportation 155 Dunn’s River Falls 102-3 USS Kittiwake 91 La Coca Falls 137

000 Map pages ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 319 Symbols & Map Key

Look for these symbols to quickly Find your best experiences with these identify listings: Great For... icons.

1 5 Sights Eating h Art & Culture v History 2 Activities 6 Drinking C Courses 3 Entertainment p Beaches r Local Life T Tours 7 Shopping a Budget f Nature & z 8 Festivals Information Wildlife & Events & Transport s Cafe/Coffee A Photo Op These symbols and abbreviations give m Cycling vital information for each listing: g Scenery Sustainable or green recommendation x Detour No payment required z Shopping u Drinking % Telephone g Bus number f Ferry n Short Trip h d Entertainment Opening hours j Tram p Parking d Train Events l Sport n q Nonsmoking E English- a Air-conditioning language menu b Family Travel Walking i Internet access v Vegetarian c W Wi-fi access selection c k Food & Drink s Swimming pool Family-friendly o Winter Travel

Sights Points of Interest Information Transport Beach Bodysurfing Bank Airport Bird Sanctuary Camping Embassy/Consulate BART station Buddhist Cafe Hospital/Medical Border crossing Castle/Palace Canoeing/Kayaking Internet Boston T station Christian Course/Tour Police Bus Confucian Diving Post Office Cable car/Funicular Hindu Drinking & Nightlife Telephone Cycling Islamic Eating Toilet Ferry Jain Entertainment Tourist Information Metro/MRT station Jewish Sento Hot Baths/ Other Information Monorail Monument Onsen Parking Museum/Gallery/ Shopping Geographic Petrol station Historic Building Skiing Beach Subway/S-Bahn/ Ruin Sleeping Gate Skytrain station Shinto Snorkelling Hut/Shelter Taxi Sikh Surfing Lighthouse Train station/Railway Taoist Swimming/Pool Lookout Tram Winery/Vineyard Walking Mountain/Volcano Tube Station Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Windsurfing Oasis Underground/ Other Sight Other Activity Park U-Bahn station Pass Other Transport Picnic Area Waterfall 320

Luke Waterson Karla Zimmerman Puerto Rico Raised in the remote Somerset coun- US Virgin Islands Karla lives in Chicago, where she tryside in southwest , Luke quickly became eats doughnuts, yells at the Cubs, and writes stuff addicted to exploring out-of-the-way places. While for books, magazines and websites when she’s completing a Creative Writing degree at the Uni- not doing the first two things. She has contributed versity of East Anglia, he shouldered his backpack to 40-plus guidebooks and travel anthologies and vowed to see as much of the world as possible. covering destinations in Europe, Asia, Africa, North Fast-forward a few years and he has traveled the America and the Caribbean – all of which are a long from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego and way from the early days, when she wrote about developed an obsession for Soviet architecture and gravel for a construction magazine and got to trek pre-­Columbian ruins in equal measure. He divides to places like Fredonia, Kansas. To learn more, his time between and Slovakia, where he follow her on Instagram and Twitter keeps the world’s leading English-language content (@karlazimmerman). site on Slovak travel and culture, www.englishman ­inslovakia.co.uk. 321 musty newsrooms and the insatiable corporate Liza Prado appetite for superficial news, Alex decided to leap Liza Prado has been a travel writer into travel writing in order to escape the mundane. Puerto Rico since 2003, when she made a move from corporate He spends most of his time on the road checking lawyering to travel writing (and never looked back). under mattresses, sampling suspicious street food She’s written dozens of guidebooks and articles as and chatting with locals as part of the research well as apps and blogs to destinations throughout process for travel articles and guidebooks. A keen the Americas. She takes decent photos too. Liza adventurer, Alex has hiked through remote jungles is a graduate of Brown University and Stanford in Colombia, explored isolated tributaries of the Law School. She lives in Denver, Colorado, with her mighty Mekong and taken part in the first kayak husband and fellow LP writer, Gary Chandler, and descent of a number of remote waterways in their two kids. Nicaragua. When not on the road, you’ll find him at home amongst the colonial splendor of Popayán in southern Colombia. Andrea Schulte-Peevers St Kitts & Nevis, Antigua Born and raised in Anna Kaminski Germany and educated in and at UCLA, Andrea has traveled the distance to the moon and Jamaica Having majored in Caribbean and Latin back in her visits to some 75 countries. She has American history at university and having lived earned her living as a professional travel writer in Kingston and worked in Jamaica’s prisons and for over two decades and authored or contributed ghettos in 2006, Anna was thrilled to research to nearly 100 Lonely Planet titles as well as to Jamaica for Lonely Planet a second time. On this newspapers, magazines and websites around the occasion, she drove the scenic and often gnarly world. She also works as a travel consultant, trans- back roads of west Jamaica, visited numerous lator and editor. Andrea’s destination expertise is plantation houses, hiked through rugged Cockpit especially strong when it comes to Germany, Dubai Country, attended the Maroon Festival and went to and the UAE, Crete and the Caribbean Islands. She Boston Bay in search of Jamaica’s best jerk pork. lives in Berlin. When not on the road for Lonely Planet, Anna calls London home. Regis St Louis Catherine Le Nevez Miami Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of place that fuels St-Martin/Sint Maarten Catherine’s wanderlust big dreams of travel – and he developed an early kicked in when she roadtripped across Europe from fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. her Parisian base aged four, and she’s been hitting He spent his formative years learning Russian and the road at every opportunity since, traveling to a handful of Romance languages, which served him around 60 countries and completing her Doctorate well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet Writing, and postgrad qualifications in Editing and titles, covering destinations across six continents. Publishing along the way. Over the past dozen-plus His travels have taken him from the mountains of years she’s written for scores of Lonely Planet Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, guides and articles covering Paris, France, Europe and to many grand urban landscapes. When not and far beyond. Her work has also appeared in on the road, he lives in New Orleans. Follow him on numerous online and print publications. Topping www.instagram.com/regisstlouis. Catherine’s list of travel tips is to travel without any expectations. Mara Vorhees Hugh McNaughtan Cayman Islands, Aruba, Bonaire, Curaçao Mara Vorhees writes about food, travel and family fun Bahamas, Turks & Caicos A former English around the world. Her work has been published by lecturer, Hugh swapped grant applications for visa BBC Travel, Boston Globe, Delta Sky, Vancouver Sun applications, and turned his love of travel into a and more. For Lonely Planet she regularly writes full-time thing. Having done a bit of restaurant- about destinations in Central America and Eastern reviewing in his home town (Melbourne), he’s now Europe, as well as New England, where she lives. eaten his way across four continents. He’s never She often travels with her twin boys in tow, earning happier than when on the road with his two daugh- her an expertise in family travel. Follow their adven- ters. Except perhaps on the cricket field. tures and misadventures at www.havetwinswill travel.com. 322

Our Story A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. With- in a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing, and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. Our Writers Joshua Kinser Curator, Plan Your Trip chapters Joshua Kinser is a writer, photographer and musician based out of Bat Cave, North Carolina, about 20 miles from Asheville. He spent more than five years working as a drummer on cruise ships, traveling throughout the Caribbean and repeatedly visiting nearly every cruise port in the region. He is the author of more than 16 books, including several travel guides to the southeast and a book series about what it’s like to work aboard cruise ships.

Ray Bartlett covering swathes of South and Central Asia, West and North Africa, and the Caribbean. In recent Ray is a travel writer specializing in Cozumel years he’s lived in Morocco, Jordan, Haiti and Fiji, Japan, Korea, Mexico and the United States. as well as his native England. Find him online at He has worked on many different Lonely Planet paulclammer.com or on Twitter as @paulclammer. titles, starting with Japan in 2004 and covering Paul also contributed to the Plan Your Trip and Cozumel and Tulum for this guide. Survival Guide sections of this guidebook.

Paul Clammer Alex Egerton Jamaica Paul has worked as a molecular Barbados A news journalist by trade, Alex has biologist, tour leader and travel writer. Since worked for magazines, newspapers and media 2003 he has worked as a guidebook author for outlets on five continents. Having had his fill of Lonely Planet, contributing to over 25 LP titles, More Writers STAY IN TOUCH LONELYPLANET.COM/CONTACT AUSTRALIA The Malt IRELAND Digital Depot, USA 124 Linden Street, UK 240 Blackfriars Road, Store, Level 3, 551 Swanston Roe Lane (off Thomas St), Oakland, CA 94607 London SE1 8NW St, Carlton, Victoria 3053 Digital Hub, Dublin 8, D08 % 510 250 6400, % 020 3771 5100, %03 8379 8000, TCV4, Ireland toll free 800 275 8555, fax 020 3771 5101 fax 03 8379 8111 fax 510 893 8572

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. twitter.com/ facebook.com/ instagram.com/ youtube.com/ lonelyplanet.com/ lonelyplanet lonelyplanet lonelyplanet lonelyplanet newsletter ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

Top View