Files/Mlta/03 ANZAC Experience
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The ANZAC experience in Malta is a set of four self-guided tours to the principal sites associated The ANZAC with the personnel of the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC) during, mainly, the experience in Malta First World War. These tours will show you where wounded An- car, whilst the reading man (R) indicates infor- zacs where hospitalised, convalesced, were enter- mation about the locale and provides historical tained, and the locations where those who lost insights. A map is recommended for car tours, their personal battles are buried. otherwise one is not necessary. Tours may be followed in one of two ways: circu- The tours also highlight points of interest on the larly, ending where they begin, or in a linear fash- islands – places where recovering servicemen ion. The walking man (_) and car (%) and off duty personnel may have visited, and so pictograms denote travel directions on foot or by can you. Tour 3 - Recovery Birgu, Cottonera, Kalkara and Rinella Mode: Circular, on foot and (mostly by) car Start: Advance Gate, Birgu Distance: 8.5kms, excluding wandering off-route in Birgu Duration: approx 2.5hrs, in- cluding tour of Birgu but exclud- ing museum visits 6 Villa Bighi 1 Advance Gate 460m 350m 7 Fort Ricasoli 2 Il-Pjazza tal-Belt Vittoriosa 500m 260m 8 Fort Rinella 3 Malta Maritime Museum 1,050m 1,500m 9 Smart City 4 St Edward’s College 1,560m 790m 10 Kalkara Naval Cemetery 5 Kalkara Arch 1,140m 970m 11 Kalkara - three trees Background map - Apple Inc map - Apple Background The ANZAC experience in Malta - Recovery • 1 Birgu may not have played a part in the healing of wounded ser- Second Word War and a vast air vicemen in WWI, but it no doubt welcomed recovering soldiers to raid shelter. A visit also in- its bars and cafes from the (reasonably) nearby hospitals. cludes the viewing of Malta G.C., Birgu did, however, have a major role in WWII. It was here that produced in 1942 by the Crown the Royal Navy’s Mediterranean Fleet had its headquarters, in Film Unit on the wishes of King Fort St Angelo. Consequently, it suffered heavy bombing and be- George VI “who, impressed by cause of its proximity to the dockyard. the super human resistance of Yet it is still studded with fine examples of mediaeval architec- the island against great odds, ture. Historic buildings that were damaged during the war, particu- wanted the whole world to learn larly along the waterfront, have been restored. And the town once about it”. The film was produced again is well on its way to a new era of prosperity and is certainly after he awarded the George worth a visit - if only to see how its population survived the aerial Cross to Malta. bombardments. The shelter beneath is a maze of tunnels and chambers that are more than a kilometre long is the Malta at War Museum. and could accommodate up to Housed in a wartime police sta- 500 people. tion the museum combines a The museum showcases an im- permanent exhibition on the pressive collection of period memorabilia and illustrates Birgu’s oldest recorded building was a how shelters were dug. Phoenician temple dedicated to the Just past the museum, the goddess Astarte, located at the penin- gallery on the right was re- Terence Mirabelli Terence sula’s tip. This was succeeded by a cently modernised and now Birgu’s Advance Gate is the starting point for Greek shrine to Hera and later by a houses the town’s library and a this tour Roman temple to Juno. Over this tem- conference hall. The ditch on ple, in 828, the Arabs built a fortress. the left doubled as Senator Nearly 400 years later it became Gracchus’s (played by Derek Ja- The starting point is the Ad- known as Castrum Maris, the castle by cobi) garden in the 2000 epic vance Gate in Birgu the sea. Eventually becoming known Gladiator, starring Russell (35˚53’8”N, 14˚31’21”E). You’ll simply as il Castello. In 1530 Grand Crowe. find a small car park opposite. Master Philippe de l’Isle Adam took up Couvre Porte, reached by a R When the Order of St John residence in the Castello, renamed short bridge, is the second gate took possession of the islands in Fort St Angelo. and was built between 1716 and 1530 the knights based them- The town that grew beyond its walls 1730. selves in Birgu, in preference to became known as il Borgo del Castello Finally, facing what looks like a Malta’s capital – Mdina. or, in Maltese, Birgu (meaning town). courtyard is the Gate of Birgu soon became the admin- Birgu has been a populated centre for Provence. Also known as the istrative centre of the island millennia and remains one of the most Main Gate it is the original, and, after the fall of Fort St densely inhabited areas on the islands. main portal to Birgu. Elmo in what is now Valletta, In mediaeval times it welcomed Vene- _ As you exit the Gate of bore the brunt of the siege laid tians, Pisans, Genoese, Aragonese and Provence you’ll face Triq il- by the Ottoman Turks in 1565. Castilians who introduced the cult of Vittmi tal-Porvlista, turn right In recognition of its valour St Lawrence. The church dedicated to and then left into Triq San Du- Birgu was given the honourable him was Malta’s first parish and dates minku. Walk down it, passing title of Città Vittoriosa – the Vic- from 1090, when Count Roger of Nor- the Inquisitor’s Palace – now a torious City. mandy invaded Malta and overthrew museum and the only inquisi- After the Great Siege Birgu’s the Arabs. tor’s palace in the world that is defences were rebuilt, and what St Lawrence originally served as the open to the public. we see today is the product of conventual church of the Order of St For a short while, from Decem- more than a century of modifi- John before St John’s Co-Cathedral ber 1826 to about 1835, the cations. was built in Valletta. palace was a British regimental Three gates – all set at right an- The present church is a fine example hospital for troops stationed in gles to each other - guard the of baroque design. The area in front of the Cottonera area. entrance to the town; the first is St Lawrence was used as a graveyard Farther along you will reach Advance Gate, also known as during the siege and later St Joseph’s Birgu’s main square, il-Pjazza the Gate of Aragon. Built in chapel and the Crucifix chapel were tal-Belt Vittoriosa. 1722 it was adorned with mag- built on the burial site. It is worth taking the time to nificent engravings that were A small museum, entrance through wander around Birgu. Beyond partially damaged during the Triq San Lorenzo, is located next to the square you’ll come across rising against the French in the parish church where de Valette’s the various auberges of the 1798. hat and sword are showcased. knights and the Order’s original Immediately past the entrance hospital, now a nunnery. The ANZAC experience in Malta - Recovery • 2 Back at il-Pjazza tal-Belt Vitto- ernment. At the end of 1998 the riosa, head for the two bollards, government granted the Order behind and to the left of the vic- of St John the upper part of tory column and to the left of Fort St Angelo, including the Triq Nestu Laviera. Go down the Grand Master’s House and the stairs to the parish church of Chapel of St Anne, with limited Birgu, dedicated to St Lawrence. extraterritoriality; meaning At the foot of the stairs the that part of the fort is not Mal- church will be on your left, the tese territory. Freedom Monument – that com- _ Head back to your car. The memorates the departure of next stop will be the former Cot- British forces from Malta on 31 tonera Hospital. March 1979 – and Dockyard % Drive up Triq it-8 Ta’ Dicem- Creek in front of you. Walk to- bru, at the roundabout take the wards the creek and turn right, third exit into Triq il-Gublew under the archway, and into tal-Fidda. The bastions of the what was a Royal Navy base. Santa Margherita Lines will be Just past the entrance you’ll on your right. At the next Mirabelli Terence see the Malta Maritime Mu- roundabout, take the first exit – At the end of 2014 St Edward’s College seum, the giveaway is the an- you are now driving up Triq unveiled a permanent exhibition high- chor by the entrance. Kottonera towards Notre Dame lighting the history of the building and R Housed in the former naval Gate, also known as Zabbar the role it played as the Cottonera Mil- bakery, the museum charts Gate. itary Hospital, with an emphasis on Malta’s maritime history from Just before reaching the gate, the First World War. prehistory to the present. It’s turn left into Triq San Dwardu. The display may be seen by appoint- worth a visit. The building on your right is St ment. Call 27881199 or email market- Past the parade of eateries, and Edward’s College, formerly Cot- [email protected]. at the tip of the peninsula tonera Military Hospital stands Fort St Angelo. From (35˚52’55”N, 14˚31’44”E). 1801 to 1912 it was used by the R In the mid-19th century ranean Station, recommended British Army as barracks, the there were just four military that two hospitals be built, one Royal Navy then took it over hospitals on the islands, and in Valletta and the other in Cot- and designated it a stone frigate these were considered “unsatis- tonera.