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Time Out Zagreb Published by Plant d.o.o. (Time Out ) Directors David Plant, Vanda Vu±i©evi© Jankova±ka 42, 10000 Zagreb, Croatia [email protected]

Managing Director David Plant Editorial Editor-in-Chief Peterjon Cresswell Contributors (editorial) Aleksandar Draga∫, David Plant, Matthew Field, Peterjon Cresswell, Maja and Reuben Fowkes Contributors (photography) Vanda Vu±i©evi©, Matthew Field, Carly Calhoun, Nikola Fox ([email protected])

Additional photographs used with the kind permission of Zagreb Golf & Country Club, WHW, Cest is d’Best, Animafest, Madhouse Theatre Company, Sheraton Zagreb, Regent Esplanade, Piranha Design Art Director Enes Husein±ehaji© Photo Editor Vanda Vu±i©evi©

Cover Credits Photography Vanda Vu±i©evi© Styling Mauro Massarotto Models Mato∫ Rado∫ and Anamarija Uzbinec at Midiken Digital Production Provision London Thanks to Sheriff and Cherry

Printing St Ives, Peterborough, UK Distribution Time Out London, April 16 2008, and via the Zagreb Tourist Board Four of the best 4 Map JS Graphics ( [email protected] ) The Features Breaking news from Zagreb Whilst every effort and care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot accept What’s on 7 responsibility for any errors it may contain. Ideas for what to do and when All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, Market day 9 without prior permission of Time Out Croatia The city’s natural resource Thanks to Amelia Toma∫evi©, Dra∆en Hochecker (Zagreb Tourist Board, Dubravka Mici©, Iva Caleta), Shane Duffy, Jenan Peku∫i©, Will Salmon, My Zagreb 12 Cathy Runciman, Brendan McKeown Local creatives talk shop Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2008 © Chairman Tony Elliott Group Financial Director Richard Waterlow Guides Managing Director Peter Fiennes City map 14 Online Managing Director David Pepper The Essentials International Managing Director Cathy Runciman Here & Now 15 We would like to thank our advertisers for their involvement. However we stress that they have Sightseeing 16 no influence over editorial content. Produced in association with Restaurants 18 ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD Kaptol 5, 10000 Zagreb www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr Cafés & Bars 20

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TIME OUT Zagreb 3 Four of the best

edited books by well-known cultural putting greens, another nine-hole The inspiration behind the events theorists, printed in a distinctive par-30 course and a clubhouse set are Pajo and Had∆i from the band red-and-black layout designed by out in traditional style. Kraljevi ulice (‘Street Kings’), local close associate Dejan Kr∫i©. Recent This traditional style is no street musicians whose popularity appearances in the gallery have coincidence. Between the wars, the rose after an appearance at a included Janes Jan∫a, a Slovenian city’s international set played golf in national song contest featuring artist who famously changed his the Park, and had strong old-fashioned melodies from the name to that of his country’s serving links with the Esplanade Hotel, home 1930s. The pair can also be seen Prime Minister, Dubrovnik art to the first Golf Club Zagreb and regularly on a local TV music show celebrity Slaven Tolj, socially venue for the annual Golfers’ Ball. and hanging around busking with engaged Zagreb artist Andreja Harking back to this period, the their instruments on Trg bana Josipa Kulun±i©, and neglected modernist GCCZ has bought the old reception Jela±i©a and Trg Petra Preradovi©a, sculptor, Vojin Baki©. desk at the Esplanade and set it up the main and flower market squares. Maja and Reuben Fowkes as a bar in the clubhouse. For the June event a stage will also For beginners there will be be set up outside the age-old Charlie European identity. In a similar vein, English-language tuition and the bar on Gajeva, with impromptu events subsequent exhibitions expanded on option of hiring a set of clubs, on pedestrianised Bogovi©eva nearby. WHWs exploration of social issues whatever your handicap. Highlights for 2008 include live and politically sensitive topics. The testing main course, 6,400 sculpture by Germany’s Bartel Mayer, Collective Creativity, staged in metres long with 11 lakes, is due Gaby Corbo’s one-woman circus from Germany in 2005, displayed the work to open on Zagreb City Day, 31 May. Argentina and Leopardman’s physical of international artist collectives, A second restaurant will be added comedy from Australia. See also p7 . including Gilbert and George and to the clubhouse plus, of course, But Cest is d’Best is not only about the Slovenian neo-avant-garde group a members’ bar. performance alone. Among the many Irwin. Back home, WHW transformed To reach the club from Zagreb by children’s activities are a huge the quiet downtown Nova Galerija, car, cross the Sava from Savska via climbing wall on Jela±i©; there is a slow strategically positioned between the the Jadranski Bridge, turn right at cycling competition, a baby marathon notorious independent and the roundabout towards Karlovac, and a race between local dustmen. You the avant-garde theatre ZKM, into a then right again at the second set of can even learn Croatian sign language venue to be reckoned with. Clearing traffic lights. You’ll find the main underwater. For more information, out the cellars, doubling the entrance just a kilometre ahead. refer to www.kraljeviulice.com. exhibition space and creating a Matt Fiel d Aleksandar Draga∫ Is land festival Four play screening room, the four-member Fore! N4ick Cave & the Bad Seeds headline Z1agreb quartet Sabina Sabolovi©, collective also sought to connect C2roatia’s first 18-hole championship- at this year’s Vip INmusic festival, Nata∫a Ili©, Ana Devi© and Ivet various alternative cultural centres standard golf course opens outside Croatia’s biggest, held on an island in Curlina, known as WHW, have been throughout Croatia through an Zagreb this May. Some 15 minutes Zagreb’s Lake . The Brighton- invited to curate the prestigious exchange initiative entitled Clubture. from the city, the Golf & Country based singer whose new album, ‘DIG, Istanbul Biennial for 2009. The all-girl The domestic programme consists Club Zagreb (Jadranska Avenija 6, LAZARUS, DIG!!!’ is released in Croatian collective, based at the little- of a multi-layered mix of exhibitions, 01 653 11 77, www.gcczagreb.hr) will March, follows Franz Ferdinand, Iggy known Galerija Nova, were selected lectures and screenings, all keenly be the best in the region, with a large Pop and , who have all thanks to a series of groundbreaking documented in the Galerija Nova driving range of 40 grass bays and appeared at this high-profile event. events staged since 2000. newspaper. The team have also 12 covered bays for floodlit practice Shows run over two days, on Tuesday WHW (locally known as ’Vay-Ha- produced several catalogues and at night. There are chipping and 3 and Wednesday 4 June. With this Vay’) refers to the ’What, How and latest album, Cave plays with original For Whom’ demanded of every Bad Seed Mick Harvey, plus drummer economic organization that is to say Thomas Wydler, bass player Martyn what is produced, for whom, and how P Casey, pianist Conway Savage, it is distributed. The team has turned Warren Ellis, Jim Sclavunos and these questions into principles that James Johnston. The new tunes are serve as a checklist for every project moody and atmospheric, not unlike they curate. They emerged with a Street party Cave’s recent musical settings for film show coinciding with the 152nd T3he 12th running of Zagreb’s most soundtracks. Although the rest of this anniversary of the Communists endearing and unusual festival takes year’s line-up is yet to confirmed, four Manifesto. Influenced by celebrated place this June. Cest is d’Best , the stages will be set up – Vip, Nokia, Slovenian philosopher Slavoj ◊i∆ek, name derived from an association Tuborg Green and the late-night the exhibition drew attention to a of street entertainers, Cestagram, Radio 101 – and camping will be search for alternatives to a ruthless is a week-long celebration of outdoor available. More details and online economic system, and questioned the performance in prominent locations sales: www.vipinmusicfestival.com. definition of a post-communist East in and around the city’s main square. Peterjon Cresswell

4 TIME OUT Zagreb TIME OUT Zagreb 5 What’s on Madhouse “Zagreb audiences get all the jokes and give the best reaction.” Mike Kelly should know – he and his Madhouse theatre company have been performing regularly in Croatia for five years. Based in Budapest, where they have a residency at the National Theatre, Madhouse have honed their art – in this case a comedic take on Shakespeare – to suit venue and audience. The region is short of sharp, Urban Festival 2008 Cest is d’Best entertaining English-language Various venues Various venues theatre and Madhouse provide (www.urbanfestival.hr). (www.kraljeviulice.com) . it in spades. Their Hungarian Date 5-15 May. Date June. base also means that Mike, A multimedia festival of contemporary This popular celebration of street his founding partner Matt art set up at various outdoor locations entertainment is set around Zagreb Devere and newest member around the city with an annual theme. city centre. 2008 sees shows by Andy Hefler work with star This year’s subject is ‘How we regret’. Germany’s Bartel Mayer, Gaby names filming there – such Corbo from Argentina and, from as roles in the BBC TV series Zagreb City Day Australia, Leopardman. See p5 . Various venues ‘Robin Hood’. For The (01 48 14 051/ Animafest Complete Works of www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr). Kneza Mislava 18 (01 45 01 191/ Shakespeare , improvisation Date 31 May. www.animafest.hr) . is all. “People in Zagreb come Shows, concerts and exhibitions Date 31 May-5 June. and see the same show again across a flower-strewn town centre The 18th running of this festival for because we make every to mark Zagreb City Day. animated films. Most screenings performance different,” take place at the Europa Cinema, says Mike. Madhouse come Dance Week Festival Var∫avska 3. See pic above . to Zagreb’s Vidra Theatre, Bijankinijeva 5 (01 46 41 154/ Dra∫kovi©eva 80, in May, www.danceweekfestival.com) . Eurokaz International and return for shows in the Date 24 May-4 June. Bogovi©eva 1/IV (01 48 47 856/ summer. For more details, This event takes place at several www.eurokaz.hr) . see www.nemzetiszinhaz.hu. venues here, in Rijeka and Zadar. Date 21 June-4 July. The agenda is in three sections, one Since 1987, Eurokaz has featured dedicated to works by choreographers 300 artists from around the world, of up to 27 years of age. with shows ranging from theatre to contemporary dance, and body art Strossmartre 2008 to new circus. Strossmayerovo ∫etali∫te (www.kraljeviulice.com). Nebo Festival Date 1-30 June. Various venues Run by the people behind Cest is (www.nebofestzagreb.com). d’Best ( see below ), this month-long Date 5-8 October. outdoor event stages free films, Acts from all over the world come to concerts and unusual happenings Zagreb to perform – the 2007 (best mongrel dog show, finest highlight was from Mongolia. wine-and-soda spritzer competition) in the lovely, leafy setting of the Festival Strossmayer Promenade. Savska 25 (01 45 93 692/ www.zagrebfilmfestival.com). Vip INmusic Festival Date 19-24 October. Lake Jarun A week-long celebration of celluloid, (www.vipinmusicfestival.com). with global directors challenging for Date 3-4 June. the Golden Pram awards. This has High-profile, four-stage, two-day become the biggest cultural event music festival on an island in Lake in town, with 35,000 visitors Jarun. This year’s main act is Nick descending on the Student Centre Cave & the Bad Seeds. See p5 . to watch films and party till late.

TIME OUT Zagreb 7 Market day

Slap bang in the middle of Zagreb, atmospheric thoroughfare. Opened up alongside. This layout remains in overlooking the main square and in in 1930, it comprised a raised open place today, with the addition of the shadow of the Cathedral, is the square lined with stalls of fruit, mezzanine in the indoor section and city’s most precious resource: the vegetables and eggs. At street level the recent bright reconstruction of Dolac. Not every city has a produce was an indoor market for meat and the Ribarnica, the fish market. market in its very centre – Paris, dairy traders. In 1933, a fish market, Florists now occupy the top level, London and Brussels lost theirs a based on the one in Trieste, was set where the Dolac meets Opatinova. long time ago. For Zagreb, the Dolac (‘Market’) is more than just a place of trade and transaction. In this fractured capital of Upper and Lower towns, the Dolac is a constant, a hub of classless social interaction, a weathervane of the local economy and Zagreb’s connection with the villages around it, even with distant Dalmatia. Traders’ voices are either distinctly urban (‘ Kaj ?’), provincial or come from the deepest south. Surrounding the square are little bars and eateries offering gableci , mid-morning snacks, and cheap lunches. From 7am, seven days a week, the Dolac is a-buzz until the early afternoon. After considering several locations, the city fathers had this main market built between Kaptol and Tkal±i©eva, Zagreb’s most

TIME OUT Zagreb 9 Any old iron? The Dolac is not Zagreb’s only market. A short walk from the main square along you will find Britanski trg , where diplomats’ wives buy their fruit and veg. On Sundays, though, the stalls are cleared and an attractive bric-a-brac and antique market is laid out, with some 100 stallholders trading goods from first thing in the morning. Paintings, jewellery, old currency, badges, glass bottles, posters, crockery, silver, old farming tools, religious icons, all on display on wooden trestle tables – but few bargains. Gone are the days when you could find a gem going for a song. Still, some beautiful unique pieces will be on offer at prices far less than you would Entering from the street, you end, the latter where local traders pay at an Islington design shop. walk through the main hall of mainly lay into four-euro ±obanac goulash Even if you don’t find anything bakers and butchers. Certain ones after a hard morning’s work. you want it’s a convivial place stand out. Pekara Dinara from A few drinks to the good, others for a potter around and a coffee. is so renowned there are may congregate in the Buffet Jelsa , The further from Ilica you look, queues outside their two downtown a stand-alone cevapi bar for rowdy the more likely your chance of outlets; Dubravice is also reputable. post-work sing-songs at the back of finding a spare table at a café There is even Kruh na∫ svagdanji , the open square. Around it, stalls near the busy browsing. ‘Give us this day’. Of the butchers, proffer souvenirs, Tito-era ladies’ For a less gentrified but Pe∫un-Pe∫un is a quality purveyor hats and lace. Wooden cabins sell perhaps more interesting of sausages from Dugo Selo. Leka olive oil, best put to use on the fish experience, jump in a cab or Crijeva i Za©inj allows you to on offer in the Ribarnica , pretty tram Nos.6, 7 or 8 over the Sava make your own from the pig’s mosaics depicting seafood on the river to Novi Zagreb and the intestines they provide. To the walls. You won’t find fresh fish on Sunday morning flea market at right is a separate area for ‘Mlije±ni Mondays or when the Jugo or Bora Hreli© . Many of the goods here Proizvodi’, the dairy producers, for winds blow, and out of season much are cheap – clothes, CDs, many locals reason alone to visit. of what is on offer has been farmed. sports shoes – but you’ll also Sir i vrhnje , cream cheese, sold by Much of what’s on offer here find piles of oddities and rarities the plastic cup (bring your own bowl is also available, fried or grilled from all over the Balkans. or bag), with a sprinkle of salt and to perfection, next door at the paprika, perhaps a few diced onions, wonderful Amfora café-restaurant. some kruznjak cornbread and, at a Sit on the terrace with a plate of stretch, spots of spek ham or slices grilled sardines and a glass of wine – of dried sausage, comprise the there’s a 30kn daily menu – and you definitive Zagreb staple. Producers, can observe the open-air market in their names and addresses placed action. Traders from Zagorje and on each stall, are generally friendly Dalmatia offer cabbages, blitva and women of a certain age: the kumica . other local vegetables, little bundles A cross between ‘trader’ and of mixed veg ( grinzaig ) ideal for ‘godmother’, the kumica is a much- soups. Deeper into the market, beans, loved figure of legend. Shoppers pumpkins, honey, vinegar and nuts have their own favourite; a statue are traded, with dried figs, sun-dried stands to one at the market entrance. tomatoes and olives near the back, At the back of the main hall are mushrooms towards the front. red plastic buckets heaped with There you will find the Rubelj sauerkraut. Up the stairs is where grill and pizzeria, with a summer you’ll find poultry and game, with terrace. At the back, overlooking it frozen goods (octopus, cod) between, all, stands the renowned Kerempuh and two bars – the Zagorka and the restaurant ( see p19 ), its ingredients Zalogajnica Tomislav – at each supplied by the traders below.

TIME OUT Zagreb 11 My Zagreb

Mauro Massarotto owns Zagreb’s best boutique, Sheriff and Cherry (Medvedgradska 3). Tena √tivi±i© is a Zagreb- He’s also an illustrator, fashion designer and stylist. born playwright resident in London who has written What’s the fashion scene like We don’t have the magazines, just relax and spend half an hour award-winning plays in in Zagreb? things like Cosmo. I get sent lots of chatting … Some other places have English and Croatian. Her There is no obvious scene. Like all ex- things by young designers and most great clothes but the shop design and latest work, Goldoni Socialist countries in transition there’s are awful. We have ‘Fashion Weeks’ staff just seem wrong a desire to look Western. It’ll take a but people don’t understand the What creative areas is Croatia Terminus , was featured at few years before people assert their business; and styling is poor. good at? the 2007 Venice Biennale. individuality. We’ll be in the EU and But many people look, and like to Right now animation, graphic many foreigners will live here; people look, wealthy. design, post-production … Why theatre? will be more easy-going. We had an Yes. Brands are perceived as very What should I do in Zagreb? My mum took me when I was little. I authentic retro-trashy style in important – the car, the watch, the The authentic. ( see p9 ), was mesmerised. I studied at the Yugoslavia but that’s gone and most shoes, the branded sunglasses, the Hrelic flea market ( see box p11 ), if Academy of Dramatic Art right after people who know how to create this right cigarettes … I’ve travelled a sunny Jarun lake ( see box p23 ), a the war when the country was in style have left. Right now it’s the start lot and I’ve never seen as many drink at Krolo’s (what locals call MK pieces, emotionally and but there are business opportunities, sunglasses shops as in Split Bar – see p21 ), a night at KSET ( see economically. We felt isolated. here I can buy my shops, in London [Croatia’s second biggest city on p22 ). The alternative crowd needs a Turbulent times reveal much about it’s hard to pay the rent. the Dalmatian coast]. new home - the people with great human nature however unfortunate People here care about their Your shops are playful and fun. ideas don’t have the money to run a they are to live in. My first play was looks. Ladies with full make-up How’s business and who are your place so people meet at house parties. about relationships and an inability just to pop to the local shop on customers? So, what’s next for you? to communicate. Later I became a Sunday morning. Business is good but we have to work The relaunch of Startas, ex-Yugoslavia’s fascinated by ‘transition’, the Oh, people care a lot, it’s more hard; we are playful; it’s a lifestyle – sports brand, starting with sneakers. concept and contradictions. For important than ; we even we think a lot about the whole look The factory is the same as it always Zaposlena magazine I write about have this terrible fashion guru on and feel including the music. I think was, the shoes all handmade. the bizarre double identity of being TV Many women go to the we attract a certain mindset so we get We’re now signing off designs and … an Eastern European in London and hairdresser twice a week but they all sorts of people; punks to posh and organising international distribution Londoner in Zagreb. don’t know much about fashion. we get to know them, they come and including London, Paris and Milan. How was London at first? The London I imagined was from ‘Four Weddings and a Funeral’ and I landed in ‘Only Fools and Horses’ – Goldsmiths’ College in New Cross. It was strangely liberating but difficult in many ways. It taught me about culture, race and identity. After two weeks I got mugged but even that was a valuable experience. Having to find your way through a new culture is like learning to walk. I became sensitive to the immigrant experience and its misrepresentation in the Western media. The multicultural still a sense of community that is And the future? model doesn’t try to integrate both claustrophobic and The company Unique and I are individuals but communities. reassuring. I have coffee in Booksa adapting my play Fragile! , staged at And how is Zagreb now? (see p20 ) and around Bogovi©eva. the Arcola Theatre, to be broadcast In the immediate post-war period, The anonymity of London can on BBC Radio 4 on 9 May. I am society wants to get back to make Bogovi©eva feel quite intense developing an idea for a TV series normal so it chooses denial rather – everyone you know is likely to and I should have a new play out in than dealing with everything at pass by. I have drinks in the BP London in September. In Croatia I once. Slowly Zagreb is becoming Club ( see p23 ) and I’ve been going have a book of plays out this Spring. more open and tuned into Europe to Noce ( see p19 ), a lovely little London was designed for those with while retaining some of its old restaurant at Kamenita Vrata. endless drive. When I grow old I character. You can walk from one Eating out here requires would divide my time between place to the next. The lifestyle is commitment. People still enjoy London, perhaps Blackheath, and more laid back, less work-oriented time with friends and family. In have a little Vespa to drive around and more spontaneous. There is London, it’s not a priority. Istria if my bones still serve me well.

12 TIME OUT Zagreb TIME OUT Zagreb 13 Here & Now

ike Paris, the Croatian capital the 1990s. Since then, the city and Gradec, and the train station. gives you the impression that has been replacing its Tito-era Habsburg in appearance, it gained L nobody is working. Locals relax shopfronts with chic boutiques, and the name of Lower Town. A main on café terraces, lovers stroll the throwing up malls wherever it can square, Harmica, was laid out where shaded grounds of Ribnjak behind find the space. Walk along any grid- the Upper and Lower Towns met. the twin-towered Cathedral while patterned street of the Lower Town Power still rested in the twin shoppers browse the market stalls and you might come across a bar or Habsburg capitals of Vienna and brimming with the fresh produce shop changed little since the 1970s or Budapest. In 1848, the Croatian Ban, of southern Europe. Shaped by before. These are now the exceptions Josip Jela±i©, led an army into Habsburg rule, Zagreb exudes a – Zagreb may be gaining modernity Hungary. His bid failed but he was Mediterreanean way of life, with but it’s losing its charm. honoured with a statue on Harmica, fringes of Balkan excess where mounted on his horse, his sword nightlife is concerned. The city’s only Bans and battles pointed in defiance. must-see is the Cathedral, with the Set by Mount , Zagreb After World War II, Yugoslav arguable exception of the Mimara grew up on the north bank of the leader Tito had the statue removed Museum , so sightseeing duties are Sava. It comprised two rival hilltop and the square named Trg republike. light. You can ride the funicular settlements, Gradec and Kaptol , Across the river Sava, he built rows of linking the Upper ( Gornji Grad ) and site of today’s Sabor , the Croatian housing blocks, Novi (‘New’) Zagreb, Lower ( Donji Grad ) Towns, take Parliament, and the Cathedral. site of new developments such as a in bizarre sights (the Technical Kaptol and Gradec fought for Museum of Contemporary Art Museum is recommended), while centuries. Proof is in the naming of due to open by the end of 2008. After away an hour in the Maksimir , Bloody Bridge , the Croatian independence, the Jela±i© Park or Mirogoj – or alley at the end of Skalinska and statue was reassembled and the join the locals, lovers and browsers scene of battles between them. square renamed Trg bana Josipa doing whatever they’re doing. By the 17th century, with the Jela±i©a. This is still the main Laid out according to Habsburg Governor (Ban) of Croatia and square today, along which pass the design, with a ‘horseshoe’ of green the Sabor based here, Zagreb’s city’s trams all through the day. space separating its elegant façades, importance overshadowed the local Everything is an easy hop from Zagreb is surprisingly small for a rivalry. By the 19th, its development here, invariably walking, or by capital of one million people. An reflected a growing search for jumping on a passing tram for a few ecclesiastical and political hub from a Croatian identity. Prestigious stops. You can take a break at one of medieval times, Zagreb was ruled buildings centrepieced a neat spread the many comfortable coffeehouses from Vienna, Budapest and Belgrade of grid-patterned streets and squares lining the square. Take your time – before gaining capital-city status in between the Upper Town of Kaptol that’s what all the locals do.

TIME OUT Zagreb 15 Sightseeing Zagreb’s Highgate Too few visitors to Zagreb make it out to the , a stunningly handsome home for the city’s elite. Featuring long arcades s a national capital, Zagreb of green space are bookended by the Two floors of folk artefacts are set inside a and tree-lined walks, this contemplative resting place a No.106 bus has its fair share of historic Botanical Gardens . Each is set in Gothic glory Secessionist palace. Croatian costumes mix journey from Kaptol was the creation of architect Herman Bollé, the treasures and fine institutions. three parts, centrepieced by the with items brought back by explorers: Indian A textiles and bark paintings from Australia. German also responsible for many of Zagreb’s key buildings. When it Cathedral Most are easily reached on foot from Academy of Arts and Sciences ; Kaptol 31 (01 48 14 727). Open opened in 1876, Mirogoj was divided but not separated into four main the central square, itself towered the National Theatre , and the 10am-5pm Mon-Sat; 1-5pm Sun. City collection sections reflecting the city’s then religious mix: Catholic; Orthodox; over by the city’s main sight, the alongside. is Zagreb’s number one Protestant and Jewish. The first resident was a Jew. Since then, Cathedral . The Upper Town can Beyond, over the Sava river is Novi attraction, its neo-Gothic twin towers visible graves many of remarkable finery have been placed all over. Ivan be reached by funicular (Tomi©eva, Zagreb , an area of post-war housing across the city. The original church was destroyed by the Tatars in 1242 and later ones Opati±ka ulica 20 (01 48 51 Me∫trovi© and Ivan Rendi©, the county’s most renowned sculptors of 6.30am-9pm daily, 3kn), along from to be facilitated by the Museum of were damaged by fire. After an earthquake in 361/www.mdc.hr/mgz) . Open 10am-6pm the 20th century, were responsible for some of them Mirogoj is an the square on Ilica. The short ride Contemporary Art (www.mdc.hr/ 1880, architect Hermann Bollé added the 105m- Tue-Fri; 10am-10pm Thu; 10am-2pm Sat,Sun Admission 20kn. artistic treasure in its own right. Almost every famous Croatian is takes you to the Lotr∫©ak Tower msu), the most significant museum to high belltowers. The interior features medieval buried here, including first president Franjo Tudjman, writer Tin Ujevi© frescoes, a baroque marble pulpit, a triptych Within the 17th-century Convent of the Clares, (Strossmayerovo ∫etali∫te 9, 01 48 51 open in Croatia for decades, from the a display of 4,500 items from a vast permanent and politician Stjepan Radi©, shot in the first Yugoslav parliament 768, open 11am-8pm Tue-Sun, 10kn). autumn of 2008. altar attributed to Albrecht Dürer and an Ivan Me∫trovi© relief that marks the resting place of collection traces the city’s history from in the 1920s. Many of the streets around Zagreb have been named The sights of St Mark’s Church , Close to the city centre are attractive Croatian Archbishop Alojzije Stepinac. prehistoric times. Themed sections include after figures who now rest here. The grave of basketball legend Dra∆en the Zagreb City Museum and the spaces for open-air relaxation, most recent Iron Age discoveries, walk-through Petrovi©, who died in a car accident at 28, is one of the most visited Me∫trovi© Ateljer are clustered up notably the , Lake reconstructions of 19th-century Ilica shops and sites. Mirogoj comes into its own on All Saints’ Day (1 November), a cobbled incline. Jarun and, more unusually, the National pride study rooms of famous Crotian artists. Pro- paganda posters act as a finale. Many exhibits when Croatian families visit loved ones, thousands of flickering The Lower Town also begins Mirogoj cemetery (see box ). Serious St Mark’s Church are interactive and documented in English. candles providing a moving experience. Originally at the edge of at the main square. A criss-cross sightseers should invest in a Zagreb Trg sv Marka 5 (01 48 51 611). Open the city, Mirogoj has since been reached and passed by housing of streets and Habsburg façades run Card (www.zagrebcard.fivestars.hr, 9am-noon, 5-5.45pm daily. Old masters developments, but retains a sense of space and calm. The walk down to the train station, the far edge 90kn), available from the city tourist Coats of arms grace the chequered roof of this back downhill to town provides further leafy relaxation. of the Lower Town. Neat rectangles office on the main square. emblematic church: Zagreb’s and those of Croatia’s regions. Since the 13th century Mimara Museum when the Romanesque original was built, the Rooseveltov trg 5 (01 48 28 100). Open church has gone through many architectural 10am-5pm Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat; 10am-7pm styles, with an elaborate Gothic south portal Thur; 10am-2pm Sun. Admission 20kn. and a baroque belltower. Inside are walls Zagreb’s most impressive art collection is set hand-painted by Jo∆o Kljakovi© and a crucifix over three floors of an equally impressive neo- by Me∫trovi©. Outside stand the Ban’s Palace classical edifice. The top floor contains works and the Sabor (the Croatian Parliament). by Rubens, Rembrandt and Raphael, while Ancient Greek, Roman and Venetian items dominate the displays lower down, not to Peasant heritage mention the Oriental carpets and medieval icons. The collection is vast – only a third is Croatian Museum of Naive Art on display at any given time. ∞irilometodska ulica 3 (01 48 51 911/ www.hmnu.org). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Fri; 10am-1pm Sat, Sun. Admission 10kn. Furniture & sculpture Credit AmEx, V. This collection is a decent introduction to Museum of Arts & Crafts Croatia’s naive art movement. Housed on the Trg mar∫ala Tita 3 (01 48 82 second floor of the 18th-century Raffay 111/www.muo.hr ). Open 10am-7pm Tue- Palace, it has a small permanent exhibit of Sat; 10am-10pm Thu; 10am-2pm Sun Admission 20kn. peasant life representations. Inside this grand palace are 160,000 items, 3,000 on permanent display, presented in a National treasure series of halls around a galleried atrium. Items date from the 14th century onwards; furniture, Me∫trovi© Atelijer instruments, clocks and ceramics dominate. Mleta±ka 8 (01 48 51 123/www.mdc.hr/ mestrovic). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat, Sun. Admission 20kn. European legacy Boy’s own Prehistory & antiquity Credit 50kn min AmEx, DC, MC, V. Strossmayer’s Gallery Technical Museum Archaoelogical Museum Sculptor Ivan Me∫trovi© lived here until 1942. The collection is spectacular, major works of Old Masters Savska 18 (01 48 44 050/www.mdc.hr/ Zrinjevac 19 (01 48 73 101/www.amz.hr) . tehnicki). Open 9am-5pm Tue-Fri; 9am- Open 10am-5pm Tue-Fri; 10am-8pm Thu; from the artist’s first four decades. Marble, Trg N√ Zrinskog 11 (01 48 95 117/ 1pm Sat, Sun. Admission collection 10kn; 10am-1pm Sat,Sun Admission 20kn. stone, wood and bronze sculptures grace two www.mdc.hr/strossmayer). Open 10am- planetarium 10kn; tram rides free. The three floors of treasures contained in floors of this fine house, the front atrium and 1pm, 5-7pm Tue; 10am-1pm Wed-Sun. A cornucopia of weird and wacky forms of his atelier off an ivy-covered courtyard. Admission 10kn. No credit cards. this grand institution date from Ancient Built for Bishop Strossmayer’s collection, transport is the real attraction here: 19th- Egypt onwards. Highlights here include the this gallery showcases works from the century fire engines; a Dubrovnik city tram Vu±edol Dove, a 4,000-year-old ceramic Folklore 14th to the 19th centuries. Only 256 are on from1912;a1930sdivingsuitandaWorldWar vessel found near Vukovar and a symbol of display, in ten rooms. Italians, including II Italian submarine you can climb into. The peace in recent times, a mummy with Ethnographic Museum Tintoretto, occupy the first six, followed section dedicated to illustrates Etruscan inscriptions and an impressive Trg Ivana Ma∆urani©a 14 (01 48 26 220/ by Flemish (Brueghel) and German (Dürer) just how far ahead of his time this turn-of-the- display of coins through the ages. The www.etnografski-muzej.hr). Open 10am- painters in the next three. French and century Serbian inventor was. On Sundays at Bronze, Copper and Iron Age items 6pm Tue-Thur; 10am-1pm Fri-Sun. Spanish (El Greco, Delacroix) complete the 9.30am, the museum’s 1924 tram does a city discovered around northern Croatia are Cathedral Admission 15kn; free Thur. magnificent collection. tourtotheMaksimirParkandback. also worthy of attention.

16 TIME OUT Zagreb TIME OUT Zagreb 17 Restaurants

eal times can be busy in spots for carnivores. Some 15 grilled options Zagreb. Neighbourhood feature many Balkan favourites, with rarities Mplaces offering cheap including blood sausage and lamb’s intestines. Prices are reasonable to the point lunches, gableci , pizzerias, full- of cheap, and a friendly waiter is happy to blown restaurants leaning towards make recommendations that day. It’s usually pork, veal and other grilled and and justifiably packed with locals. breaded delights, trendier and glob - Sofra al fusion venues around Kaptol, all I gardijske brigade Tigrovi 27 (01 61 31 form a changing gastronomic pic - 026). Open 10am-midnight Tue-Sat; 11am- ture in Croatia’s capital. You can 10pm Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V . also taste specialities from Zagorje The best Bosnian restaurant in town is worth to Dalmatia, usually in the tradition - a taxi ride to its discreet location. Grilled al surroundings of a konoba , or tav - meats are the speciality here – pljeskavica and ©evapi, served with traditional bread – ern. Prices there are reasonable, the although the 90kn plate for two might be the On the hoof The classic snack here is burek , a flaky pastry feel homely. One steadfast local way to go. Dishes are designed to be shared often filled with cheese. Another regional favourite is ∫trukli , little dough ravi - and enjoyed slowly. Allow two hours. oli filled with cottage cheese, some - Reservations recommended. speciality is ±evap±i©i , meatballs served in bread and, if so times covered in breadcrumbs. If requested, a garnish of the paprika relish Ajvar. Sausages and, you only have time for one meal in Mediterranean in winter, mulled wine and chestnuts, are available at cutesy town, enjoy it at Marcellino , huts set up around the city centre. Everyone’s favourite late-night Ma∫klin i Lata or Bistro Apetit . Noce Kamenita 5 (01 485 13 43). Open 10am- sandwich bar is Pinguin (Nikole Tesle 7, 01 48 14 446; open Kerempuh uses ingredients from 9am-2am daily), conveniently located right next to the BP jazz club the city’s main market, the Dolac. To midnight Mon-Thur; 10am-1am Fri, Sat; 10am-6pm Sun. Credit MC, V. (see p23 ). There’s another late-night snack hatch round the corner shop for fruit, cheese, bread and oth - A recent change of name has done little to er produce there, see pp9-11 Noce alter the quality of the fresh, Italian- from the Cathedral end of the main square . Market day . influenced fare on offer here. By the candlelit shrine at Kamenita, this venue attracts a Ma∫klin i Lata discerning clientele without setting high Quality – at a price Local favourites Contemporary Seafood Andrije Hebranga 11A (01 48 18 273/ prices. A weekly-changing menu is small and www.masklinilata.hr). Open noon-11pm Marcellino ∞iho Bistro Apetit well conceived, with one fish, one meat and Kor±ula Mon-Sat. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. one meat-free choice in the 80kn range as a Jurjevska 71 (01 46 77 111). Open Sept-July Pavla Hatza 15 (01 481 70 60). Open Jurjevska 65A (01 46 77 335). Open 9am- Teslina 17 (01 48 72 159). Open 10am- This wine-cellar/restaurant offers a taste of main. Brunches also served. A superb choice noon-11pm Mon-Sat. Credit MC, V. 8am-midnight Mon-Sat; noon-midnight Sun. midnight Tue-Sun. Credit DC, MC, V. 10pm Mon-Sat; 10am-4pm Sun. Credit the sea. Dishes with a fish or seafood base For interesting, ambitious international Credit MC, V. Feeling cautious, you order from a menu full of world wines too. AmEx, DC, MC, V. combine with home-made pasta, truffles or fare, head here, a contemporary, 45-seater A homely venue between the main square of innuendo (‘The most beautiful moment’, As traditional as it gets, waistcoated staff turned into great stews. The meat, cheese and restaurant overlooking a mature wood, and the station. Upstairs is comfortable but ‘The happy end’), but don’t worry. Service, and all, this Dalmatian fish restaurant has desserts are of similar quality. illuminated at night. Try and get a window Organic downstairs is where regulars prefer. In food and wine here are impressive, been here for years, long before Zagreb’s Ribarski Brevijar seat. Owner and head chef Mario oversees traditional Dalmatian surroundings, try one standards imposed by Austrian chef-owner fashionable bar quarter set up around it. The Ivica i Marica Kaptol 27 (01 48 29 999/www.ribarski- each ordered, symmetrical and delicate of 15 varieties of fish, and a dozen types of Christian Cabalier, previously of Vienna’s kitchen turns out high-quality versions of plate, training an army of sous chefs as he Tkal±i©eva 70 (01 48 28 999). Open noon- brevijar.hr). Open noon-1am Mon-Sat. rakija, brandy made with nuts or fruit. Cantinetta Antinori. At 60kn-70kn a starter Adriatic seafood standards, the speciality goes. Such care doesn’t come cheap; a meal 11pm Tue-Sun. Bakery 9am-11pm daily. Credit DC, MC, V. and 90kn-120kn a main, Apetit is not cheap for two with wine will cost you around Stari Fijaker Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. here being a succulent baked octopus. From The former Murter restaurant is run by the 1,000kn, a price even by London standards. but many dishes are worth it. The swordfish Themed ‘Hansel and Gretel’ serves national an extensive menu you will also find famous Holjevac family. It provides loyal Me∫nicka 6 (01 48 33 829). Open 7am-11pm carpaccio with black lentils and rocket is a staples with no preservatives, artificial breaded frog’s legs, scallops and John Dory But if you want fillet of beef with rocket, Mon-Sat; 10am-10pm Sun. Credit DC, MC, V. dining regulars with the freshest fish in town, fine starter; the pumpkin gnocchi slightly colouring or GM ingredients. Brown sugar at reasonable prices. Standard Dalmatian parmesan and truffles, or venison with The Old Coach has been a restaurant for a simply prepared and garnished. Decent less so, a little bit like comfort food. The tuna replaces the white type, even in the ice-cream. desserts and regional wines too. selection of wines too. blueberries, chestnuts, pears and wine, or century or more, hence the wonderful pictures prawns with orange juice and olive oil, in a steak and horseradish mash are a weird and The fish, though, is genuine, and great, cod of old Zagreb. Half-bar, half-restaurant, the wonderful combination, part sushi, part and tuna available on Fridays. All bread, memorable setting, you won’t be latter offers traditional dishes, many from disappointed. This is a place to impress, to Sunday lunch. The tuna is moist, the wasabi noodles and pastries are made here. Organic Zagorje, some 50 in all. The waiter will be mash melts on the tongue with just the right salads also available. share your meal with embassy staff and delighted to talk you through the chef’s local celebrities. amount of bite. Apetit lacks the charm of a recommendations and whatever you choose real bistro but its terrace allows for calm won’t cost more than 70kn, tops – also the outside the city bustle. Add a good selection Box fresh price of a litre of wine. Zagorski soup (20kn) Rustic of well priced Croatian, Slovenian and Kerempuh of potatoes and ham is a must, provided you Italian wines and you have one of the best Kaptol 3 (01 48 19 000/www.kerempuh.hr). Baltazar come with an appetite – portions are large. dining experiences in town. 4 (01 46 66 808). Open noon- Open 9am-3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Sat. Credit midnight Mon-Sat. Credit DC, MC, V. Tip Top AmEx, DC, MC, V. In a little Kaptol courtyard, this pretty terrace Gunduli©eva 18 (01 48 30 349). Open Meat The Kerempuh sources from the main market restaurant attracts an upmarket clientele with 7am-10pm Mon-Sat. Credit DC, MC, V. it overlooks. Its reputation was established its superb traditional dishes and regional ‘Blato’ is an authentically retro spot run by Mitnica by star chef Ana Ugarkovi©; staff still rush to meals from Zagorje and Slavonia. Duck and people from Kor±ula. Little has changed here ∞rnomerec 37 (01 37 78 640). Open the market first thing to find fresh ingredients turkey are particular favourites. Service and since Tin Ujevi© and his literary gang were 10am-midnight Mon-Sat; 10am-11pm Sun. for the daily changing menu. This is posted presentation are impeccable, allowing the bill regulars. Daily specials include octopus Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V . up on the restaurant’s website so that the to creep up to 300kn a head with wine. goulash (45kn) but there’s red mullet, sole or With two venues in town, the other at M membership of young professionals can Fabulous on a summer evening. sea bass. Plenty of Kor±ula wines. Rojca 28, these are Zagreb’s two most popular choose before they arrive. Kerempuh

18 TIME OUT Zagreb TIME OUT Zagreb 19 Cafés & Bars

ew bars are being set up all who hasn’t shied away from adorning the Melin over Zagreb, along Ilica, down entrance area with artefacts relating to Tkal±i©eva 47 (01 48 28 966). Open 9am- NSavska in the business quarter himself, his team-mates and compatriot 1am daily. Croatian Olympians. The spirit of old Tkal±i©eva, Melin stands and especially in a hub around lounge- behind a garden and playground, scruffy but bar central, Preradovi©ev trg, by the with bags of character. The dark interior is flower market. The best bar crawl Cocktails grungy, the air thick with smoke and the remains Tkal±i©eva, the atmospheric, Hemingway Lounge Bar music deafening. At weekends drunken pedestrianised street behind the main teenagers and older alternative types spill out Trg Mar∫ala Tita (www.hemingway.hr). market ( see pic right ). Cica stands out on to the beer terrace – it can feel like a Open 7am-3am daily. festival. If it gets too much, there’s the more while Melin gets a young, party crowd. Hemingway is a chain of upmarket cocktail sedate Portal bar alongside. Coffee is enjoyed on downtown bars with branches in Zagreb. This one is the terrace cafés (the post-shopping most popular, mainly because of its location Saturday-morning drink is known as opposite the National Theatre. Look out for Theme original mixes shaken with aplomb at spica ) or smaller, contemporary spots mixology contests around the world. In Movie Pub such as Eli’s Caffè . Beer is another summer pavement tables pack with the Savska 141 (01 60 55 045/www.the-movie- tradition – places such as Pivnica pretty set by day, with Mai Tais and Long pub.com). Open 7am-2am Mon-Wed; 7am- Medvidgrad (Savska 56) brew their Island Ice Teas sipped at night. The classiest 3am Thur; 7am-4am Fri, Sat; 6pm-2am Sun. own while the Movie Pub can offer a branch at Tu∫kanac in leafy Gradec is Expats are not spoiled for choice in Zagreb. dozen types on tap. Zagreb also excels usually hired out for private parties. Overpriced, faux pubs there might be, but not many of them, and none has this kind of in music bars, where the soundtrack Maraschino atmosphere. The Movie Pub is large enough (indie, punk, rap) brings in a discerning Margaretska 1 (01 48 12 612). Open 8am- and authentic enough to attract custom from clientele. Dobar Zvuk , Limb and Yaxx 1am Mon-Sat; 9am-1am Sun. home and abroad, the drink prices are not Spunk can be relied upon to provide Named after the sweet cherry liqueur from outrageous (this is the business quarter by the a few indie treats. Zadar, Maraska, this two-floor spot in Sava, after all), the range of beers is enticing Beer heaven trendy bar central is packed to the rafters in and the regular events staged here a lot of fun. of ‘Trespassers Wil’, exudes something of the the evenings, but a low-key place to try a few Beers include Leffe, Tuborg, Bellevue Kriek Arty Funky ramshackle nature of the locality. Occasional Hop Devil local tipples by day. Its brown interior and popular Benelux brews; entertainment is decked out in old Maraska posters, it offers Sedmica DJ sessions and regular hedonism are the Branimirov 29 (01 387 6343). Open noon- in the form of live music and karaoke. All Cica Bar (dis)order of the day – it’s heartening to know midnight daily. Maraska-infused coffee or hot chocolate, takes place in predictably celluloid-themed Ka±i©eva 7A (01 48 46 689). Open 8am- Tkal±i©eva 18 (no phone). Open 9.30am- that there is something popular in Zagreb that long drinks, and Malvazija and Babi© wines. surroundings, although many of the photos late daily. This Belgian bar has an attractive buzz 11pm daily. isn’t glitzy or imported. despite its setting in a shopping mall near the Expect DJ sessions at weekends. taken at international film festivals are This cult bar is found under a small beer sign Cica is hands down the finest venue on the original. There is a restaurant too and above a doorway. Inside, boho and arty regulars train station. The drinks menu has a café-lined strip of Tkal±i©eva – there’s even a comprehensive range of bottled varieties – adjacent hotel rooms should the need arise. gather on a wrought-iron mezzanine opposite a case for awarding it ‘best bar in town’ status. Young at heart bar counter of Fischer’s and Erdinger taps. In The kids are alright fruity, colourful, malty – from the Benelux. Purists would point to its diminished new look Pricy by Zagreb standards but popular. Orient Express between, drinkers prop up a spot at a long, thin without the flea-market furniture and wax Dobar Zvuk Apartman Teslina 10 (01 48 10 548). Open 9am- marble table. Sedmica is a meeting place for lyrical about legendary drinking sessions here Gajeva 18 (01 48 72 222). Open noon- Preradovi©eva 7 (01 48 72 168). Open 11pm daily. those in the creative arts, an obvious in reasonably recent times. The point is that 11pm Mon-Sat. Old school 9am-midnight Mon-Wed, Sun; 9am-1am Set in the narrow shape of a train carriage, rendezvous before a trendy private view . the drinks remain the same attractive range Set in an old hi-fi store, this superior music Thur-Sat. this tasteful recreation of the famous vehicle of home-made spirits – blueberry, honey, nut, bar is a lively rendezvous for spiky-haired MK Bar On the corner with Teslina, Apartman is a is decked out with a wonderful series of mixed herbs, anis and figs – as does the locals. It’s ideal for a Bambi Molesters tune Radi©eva 7 (no phone). Open 7am-11pm funky spot near the flower market. black-and-white photographs of its Literary bohemian clientele enjoying them. Not for or Dead Kennedys fave. Pub-like in style – Mon-Sat; 9am-1pm Sun. Incongruously, it was the HQ of the local glamorous passengers in its heyday. French- scouts’ association, marked by a plaque and Eli’s Caffè nothing does the sign say ‘Caffeteria old Guinness ads, bare brickwork – ‘Good Known by all as Krolo, after the writer language signage, shiny copper and a bottle- Grapperia Galleria’ outside – although the Sound’ may be guitar driven but lacks the Miroslav Krle∆a born and commemorated an outdoor scene on one wall. Spread over the green colour scheme add to the illusion. An Ilica 63 (091 527 9990 mobile/www. male overtones of other music bars in town. first floor, it attracts a young clientele who incongruous display of tennis items points eliscaffe.com). Open 8am-9pm Mon-Sat; half-erased one on the wall, ‘Zlatarn-’, a kind here, this sturdy wooden bar five minutes from the main square gives a flavour of pre- intertwine on big bright cushions by day. By towards the bar’s management. No themed 9am-3pm Sun. night, DJs occasionally take over. drinks but a wide range of spirits. A busy, contemporary spot encourages a 1991 Zagreb. An older clientele in trilbies slow read and idle chatter thanks to some 30 religiously scan the day’s newspaper while a varieties of coffee served by an able staff younger regulars talk with reverential quiet trained in Trieste. The location is handy too, around the circular seating. Timeless is the within easy reach of the Sunday-morning word you’re looking for. antique market on Britanski trg . Booksa Sports Marti©eva 14D (01 46 16 124/www. Yaxx booksa.hr). Open 9am-11pm Tue-Sun. Zagreb’s literary club doubles up as an Pavla Hatza 16 (01 48 39 020/www. yaxx.hr). Open 10am-midnight Mon-Sat; alcohol-free café, a collective run by a trio of 11am-11pm Sun. enthusiastic women. The soundtrack is This is the way a good sports bar should be reliably solid (Belle and Sebastian, the – bright, spacious interior, proper drinks Decembrists), the atmosphere laid-back and and unobtrusive TVs. Not everyone is here regular events here include readings, low-key to see the big game but it’s one of the best concerts and exhibitions. A modest places to watch it in town and staff will do membership contribution is required, as well their best to meet the most obscure request. as 15-minute tram journey from the main The bar, like the restaurant also here, is run square but both are worth it. Booksa by Olympic handball legend Vlado Sola, Sedmica

20 TIME OUT Zagreb TIME OUT Zagreb 21 Nightlife Jarun by night If Zagreb has a clubbing hub, then it’s set around a peaceful, leafy retreat of lakeside recreation: Jarun. Landscaped for the 1987 World oracityofitssize,Zagrebhas Gallery Student Games, the Jarun of joggers, rowers and young families alwayspunchedaboveitsweight Matije Ljubeka (091 113 32 21 mobile). Open 10am-1am Mon-Wed, Sun; 10am-4am becomes one of lovers, clubbers and partygoers after dark. The F asfaraslivemusicandnightlife waterside lounge bars turn into DJ haunts, while three key large-scale Thur-Sat. areconcerned.Mostvenuesdemand Jarun branch of the prominent Hacienda club nightclubs come into their own: Aquarius; Best and Gallery. entryof30kn-60knandfewhavedress on the Adriatic coast. See box . Aquarius is the daddy of them all, the pioneer for quality clubbing in codes.TheclubsceneissetaroundLake Piranha Zagreb since 1992. With a capacity of 1,300 over two floors, Aquarius Jarun–Aquarius isthemostestab - can accommodate both DJs (particularly the fresh local sounds of lishedvenue,Gallery demandssmart Jarunska jezero (091 462 92 98 mobile). Open 11am-midnight Mon, Tue, Sun; Kontrapunkt) and live bands. Hip hop and R&B dominate at weekends. wear.See box .Insummer,thescene 11am-1am Thur; 11am-4am Wed, Fri, Sat. Best is best described as a megaclub, mainstream and glitzy, with movestoNovaljaonPag,Croatia’sIbiza. Daytime, post-work and post-midnight house, trance and techno pulling in the crowds. Gallery comes closest Banalturbofolk,amixoffolkandelec - lounge bar and dance club. See box . to a superclub, this Zagreb branch of the renowned Hacienda club on tropop,ispopular– youcan’tavoidit.On the Adriatic coast bringing in big-name international DJs to spin in the theplusside,livemusicthrives.Aswell Jazz Croatian capital. A tight control is kept on admission numbers, a dress asaregularinfluxofinternationalartists code (no trainers) is strictly adhered to but once you’re in, Gallery can ofallpersuasions,Zagrebcannow BP Club be a whole bunch of fun. Of the daytime bars, Piranha has the best Teslina 7 (01 48 14 444/www.bpclub.hr). accommodatejazzactsattwodecent reputation and after-dark music programme. The minimalist Macao downtownvenues:theBP Club andthe Open 10.30am-1.45am Mon-Sat; 5.30pm- 1.45am Sun. (01 30 90 253) and the party-oriented Londoner (091 262 00 63 Jazz Club .Lookoutforpostersalong BP is Zagreb’s most prestigious jazz club mobile) also get busy in summer, the latter set on one of the lake’s six Ilica,detailsonmuzika.hrorflyersinbars right in the centre of town. Run by Croatia’s islands, Vesla±ki. Others host music festivals, such as VIP Inmusic suchasSedmica andDobar Zvuk . most important jazz musician, vibraphonist (www.vipinmusicfestival.com) to take place on 3 and 4 June 2008 with Zagreb also excels in the music bar, Bo∫ko Petrovi©, this intimate basement is lined with pictures of the famous exponents Nick Cave & the Bad Seeds headlining. See p5 . Reaching Jarun by tram hangouts with no door fee, perhaps a DJ, is an easy hop on the No.17 from the main square, while getting back to but where sounds count. The best places (Art Farmer, Joe Pass, Ronnie Scott) who have played on its tiny stage in the corner. It town should cost under 80kn by taxi. See listings . include Spunk and Limb . has a superb choice of wines, beers and spirits In Autumn the team behind Porat , too. It stages two annual festivals: Springtime arguably Croatia’s best club on the Jazz Fever in late March and Hrvatski Jazz Adriatic coast (dancing in olive groves Sabor in early October. 3ms from the sea), will open a new much Jazz Club anticipated 300-500 capacity venue on Gunduli©eva 11 (091 664 94 98 mobile). the edge of the city. Exact details still Open 8pm-1am daily. TBC; ask about. Newcomer challenging BP Club’s local jazz club hegemony with a nightly agenda of live sounds. In a handy downtown cellar location, Nostalgia the Jazz Club stages mainly local acts for a loyal gang of young regulars, who pack this Jabuka intimate venue and create an inclusive, Jabukovac 28 (01 48 34 397). Open 9pm- enjoyable ambience, whatever your musical 2am Fri, Sat. KSET tastes. Modest admission fee. Everyone knows the Apple, where a generation of thirty- and fortysomethings danced and found romance a decade and KSET Tvornica Music bars more ago. This Tu∫kanac club still offers the Unska 3 (01 61 29 999/www.kset.org). Subi©eva 2 (01 46 5 5 007/www.tvornica- sounds of the 1980s in its modest dance room, Open 8-11.45pm Mon-Fri; 9pm-3am Sat. kulture.hr). Trams 1 & 17 to Subi©eva. Limb as older revellers gather around the crowded For an intimate, adventurously programmed Open Café 8.30am-10pm daily. Club 10pm- Plitvi±ka 16 (01 61 71 683). Tram 13 to bar and back courtyard. venue, head straight for KSET. A club built 4am daily. Miramarska . Open 9am-1am Mon-Sat. for 400 people, since 1999 KSET has staged Ideal location for live music, DJs and even Formerly the spot for music fans – americana, avant-jazz, punk and lots of other theatre performances. Run by the figure underground, understated and right by KSET Gay stylistically diverse artists. Most weekends, responsible for the legendary Kulu∫i© of the it was many a locals favourite hangout. Some the speakers are given over to electronic 1990s, the Factory is the best mid-sized venue say it's lost its edge but you’ll still find older Global music, often drum ’n’ bass. It’s a friendly in town, holding 1,500 people. boho types in three colourful rooms and a Aquarius Pavla Hatza 14 (01 48 14 878/www. atmosphere, attracting an easygoing crowd glass-enclosed terrace with a tree in the globalclubzg.hr). Open 8pm-4am Wed-Sat. enjoying cheap drinks. middle. Owner Selma offers Beaujolis in the The first gay club in Zagreb attracts a mixed Lake Jarun autumn and Tex-Mex tunes all year round. crowd. It’s a hopping spot, with three bars, Mo±vara a VIP lounge, a dancefloor and a darkroom. Trnjanski nasip (01 60 55 599/www. Aquarius Spunk Glitz Trainspotter mochvara.hr). Tram 13 to Lisinski. Open Aleja Matije Ljubeka (01 36 40 231/ Hrvatske bratske zajednice (01 61 51 528). 7.45pm-1am Mon-Thur, Sun; 7.45pm-4am www.aquarius.hr). Open Café 9am-9pm Tram 13 to Lisinki . Open 7am – midnight Ritz Club Fanatik Loud & live Fri, Sat. daily. Club 10pm-6am daily. Mon-Wed; 7am – 3am Thur-Sat; 6pm – Petrinjska 4 (099 660 71 82 mobile). Open Ribnjak 26 (no phone) Open 8pm-4am The Swamp is where young alternatives Zagreb’s most established club, a live venue midnight Sun. from 10pm daily. Tue-Sat. Boogaloo gather for underground fun. Set by the banks and DJ spot of international standard with A student coffee bar by day; a chaotic garage This tastefully conceived post-work hangout This compact, smoky basement frequented OTV Dom, Vukovarska 68 (01 63 13 021/ of the Sava, Mo±vara holds 700 people in an sound system to match. See box . rock bar by night. DJs, occasional live music offers cabaret and jazz sounds to a classy by a twentysomething music-savvy audience www.boogaloo.hr). Open Call for details. imaginatively muralled abandoned factory. and heavy drinking. Spunk is full of punk and clientele. Open until the early hours (depending attracts good local, regional and sometimes This DJ club and live venue occupies the OTV Shows are completely random: punk, metal, Best indie types; the comic-book murals of Igor on numbers), Ritz is housed in the former, far international DJs. Expect deep house to Dom building on Vukovarska, scene of world music, plus DJ nights at least monthly. Jarunska cesta 5 (01 30 11 943/www. Hofbauer, artist at the nearby Mo±vara club seedier club of the same name. This recently minimalist. There are no dancers in cages this seminal shows by Laibach and Einstürzende Art-rock types haunt the bar. Stop press: thebest.hr). Open 10pm-7am Fri, Sat. provide the perfect backdrop. A good late opened renovation should set the standards as is a serious, chin-stroking, trainspotter's Neubauten in the early 1980s. future in doubt. See www.urk.hr for info. A megaclub, mainstream and glitzy. See box . night option if you don't fancy a full on club. far as the high end of the market is concerned. choice. Surprisingly friendly for all that.

22 TIME OUT Zagreb TIME OUT Zagreb 23 Hotels

he hotel stock in Zagreb has cater to travellers on the Orient Express, the Opened in late 2007, the contemporary Stella improved considerably of late. Regent Esplanade has accommodated Handy is another newbie within easy reach of Luxury and high-end business Elizabeth Taylor, Queen Elizabeth II, Orson Zagreb aiport. A comfortable three-star with T Welles and Louis Armstrong. After a Best Western Hotel Astoria 43 rooms, it appears on many generic hotel- lodgings are provided by the fabulous complete refurbishment, it reopened in 2004 Petrinjska 71 (01 48 08 900/910/fax 01 48 booking websites, thus attracting regular Regent Esplanade as well as the as the Regent Hotels chain’s first in Europe. 17 053/www.bestwestern.com). Rates 125- international traffic. high-profile Sheraton Zagreb , while The lobby is a veneered wonder, clocks over 150 double. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V€. € central, mid-range alternatives include the door showing the time in six world cities. Best Western bought this 1932 hotel between Classic the Astoria and the Laguna . A recent Stylish guestrooms range in size and the train station and the main square and, after configuration, but come with heated floors, a floor-to-ceiling makeover, unveiled it as one phenomenon has been the opening of a goose-down bedding, mist-free mirrors and of its premier properties. A lobby of wood Hotel Palace handful of hotels near the airport and in fancy toiletries in the marble bathrooms. The panelling, plush red armchairs and marble Trg JJ Strossmayera 10 (01 48 14 611/fax 01 48 11 357/www.palace.hr). Rates 130- the business quarter, thus underlining chef at Zinfandel’s restaurant conjures up floors leads to red-carpeted hallways lined by € modern Med cuisine, while Le Bistro does the replicas of Croatian masterpieces. The rooms 160 double. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Zagreb’s role as an global conference T€his rather grand Secessionist mansion, the centre. These include the Aristos and best ∫trukli in town. There’s a terrace café range from smallish twins and queens to more and cocktail bar, the Esplanade 1925, where spacious executives and suites equipped with Schlessinger Palace, houses Zagreb’s first the Stella – expect more in 2008. films are shown in the summer, a casino and window-paned sliding doors. The decor hotel, opened in 1907. A century later, it’s still Althoughprivateaccommodationin fitness club. The sauna comes into its own features a relaxing palette of beiges, yellows one of the city’s most elegant properties, The Grand Ballroom of the Sheraton Zagrebisnotasprevalentasonthe for the relaxation and romance packages, and creams and contemporary paintings. catering to the moneyed and the famous. All Sheraton Zagreb 123 rooms, three suites and two semi-suites Zagreb served as an appropriately Dalmationcoasttherearemanyoptions. with hot-stone and chocolate massages, and one deal in which the butler draws your bath. Westin Zagreb are a mixture of art-nouveau decor and dignified setting for incoming England coach Fabio Capello, his The Zagreb Tourist Board Krsnjavoga 1 (tel/fax 01 48 92 000/ contemporary amenities: sturdy dark wood (http://www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr) has www.westin.com). Rates from 155 double. furniture, huge windows, a yellow-and-blue Croatian counterpart Slaven Bili© and three other national a list of registered options. Prices tend Chic Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. € colour theme, original paintings and spacious managers to meet and arrange the timetable for the upcoming to be significantly cheaper, particularly The city-centre Westin offers relaxation and bathrooms with tubs. For minimum noise and the best views of Sljeme in the distance, qualifying group for the World Cup 2010. If it is good enough for if you’re staying longer than a few days, Arcotel Allegra business convenience. It has a contemporary Branimirova 29 (01 46 96 000/fax 01 46 96 feel, with convivial bedrooms and comfortable book a courtyard-facing room. Vladimir Putin and other world leaders, then it is good enough for and generally include bedding and tow - 096/www.arcotel.at). Rates 85- 160 double; beds, while the bathrooms are spacious and one of world football’s freshest rivalries. After nearly seven hours els, plus cleaning and laundry weekly. 14 breakfast. Credit AmE€x, DC€, MC, V. well equipped. The in-house Diana bar is one Also a good way to meet the locals. Z€agreb’s first designer hotel, conveniently of the best of its kind in town, the ideal spot to Cosy of negotiations, agreement was reached – England will come to located near the train station, is a chic spot finish a long day’s work or start the evening. Pansion Jägerhorn Zagreb again this September. Meanwhile guests would have with a Med theme. The marble-clad lobby Ilica 14 (01 48 33 877/30 161/fax 01 48 enjoyed the high-end facilities in one of Croatia’s leading Luxury gives access to the Radicchio restaurant while 33 573/www.hotel-pansion-jaegerhorn.hr). the on-site Joe’s Bar hosts regular Latino Main square Rates 100- 105 double. Credit AmEx, conference hotels (there are 17 meeting rooms) – a heated indoor Regent Esplanade nights. The 151 uncluttered rooms come with Hotel Dubrovnik DC, MC€, V. € pool, a gym, sauna and solarium. All 306 rooms are of a high Mihanovi©eva 1 (01 45 66 021/fax 01 45 66 good soundproofing, pine furniture, funky For some peace and quiet within a family 050/www.regenthotels.com). Rates Mon-Thur Gajeva 1 (01 48 63 500/501/fax 01 48 63 fabrics with portraits of celebrities (Kahlo, atmosphere, stay at this intimate little spot in international standard, with marble bathrooms, and dining can be 200- 215 double; Fri-Sun 154 double; 20 Picasso and Kafka) and DVD players. Look 506/www.hotel-dubrovnik.hr). Rates 166- € a commercial passage at the main-square end enjoyed at the Fontana and King Tomislav restaurants. See listing. €breakf€ast. Credit AmEx, DC€, MC, V. € out for the world map, with a red dot marking 180 double. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. In a class of its own. Fabulous luxury and W€ atch Zagreb’s daily action unroll from your of Ilica. Eight smallish and clean doubles fill Zagreb, on the blue carpets in hallways and the top floor of a heritage building under the top-notch service are the name of the game rooms, and constellations on lift ceilings. The window at this four-star right off the main leafy Upper Town. These rooms have at this art-nouveau gem beside the main train top floor has a sauna and gym, and great square. The complex comprises two six-storey station. Since it opened between the wars to rooftop views. buildings. The older, from 1929, has a capacious bathrooms, sloping walls and beautifully spruced-up façade; the younger is standard trimmings. The two suites have a a 1980s glass extravaganza. Inside the pair, 258 separate living room and a kitchenette. en-suite rooms come in different shapes and sizes, but all boast unfussy decor with Old Conference World flair, dark wood furniture and modem connections. Rooms in the new part come with Sheraton Zagreb Hotel smaller windows, so book one facing the square Kneza Borne 2 (01 45 53 535/fax 01 45 53 in the old building – preferably a corner. The 035/www.sheraton.com). Rates 130- 190 café downstairs is a local landmark. double. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V€. € International hub and conference host. The Four Points branch in the business quarter is Airport the shiny blue-glass tower you see for miles around (Four Points Panorama, trg Sportova Hotel Aristos 9, 01 36 58 333, fax 01 30 92 657). See box . Cebini 33 (01 66 95 900/fax 01 66 95 902/www.hotel-aristos.hr). Rates E140- E200 double. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Budget In the Buzin Business Park near the aiport, this stylish four-star hotel of 70 rooms and Hotel Laguna seven suites is ideal for the traveller arriving Kranj±evi©eva 29 (01 30 47 000/fax 01 30 on expenses. Two congress halls, a modem in 47 077/www.hotel-laguna.hr). Tram 12 to every room and the Gallant restaurant, all is Tehni±ki muzej. Rates 70 single; 86 here to smooth the process of trade and double . Credit AmEx, €DC, MC, V . € transaction. Pets also welcome. For all its design modesty c1975, this three- star is a handy little option three stops on the Hotel Stella No.9 tram from the main station. Note that Nadinska 27 (01 53 93 600/fax 01 53 93 rates for a room compare favourably with 603/www.hotel-stella.hr). Rates from E62 those at a hostel or student centre. The Hotel Dubrovnik Regent Esplanade double. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Laguna also has a gym, sauna and internet.

24 TIME OUT Zagreb TIME OUT Zagreb 25 Directory

Getting there Resources Time & around Croatia is an hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Gay & Lesbian Time, with the usual seasonal changes.

By air Homosexuality is decriminalised in Croatia Tipping but it’s only recently that gay and lesbian Direct flights to Zagreb from the UK are just groups have raised their profile. Queer over two hours, with Croatia Airlines (www. Zagreb (www.queerzagreb.org) organises a Round up bills to the next 10kn-20kn, or by croatiaairlines.hr) and low-cost Wizz Air festival of gay art every April, and screenings about ten per cent. You don’t need to tip in (www.wizzair.com). of gay films every third weekend of the pubs and cafés, unless you have received month at the Tu∫kanac cinema (Tu∫kanac 1, special service. www.queerzagreb.org/film). For an excellent Overland web-based gay guide to Croatia, refer to http://travel.gay.hr/en. Toilets To enter Croatia by car you need a valid driving licence with a photograph, vehicle Universal signs will be placed on the toilet registration documents and insurance Health doors to indicate men’s and ladies’, or look documents (including a Green Card). Car hire out for M (men’s) and ◊ (ladies’). in Croatia is expensive – about 500kn a day British passport holders are entitled to for an average family car. Drivers must be reciprocal free hospital and dental treatment over 21 and have held their driving licence in Croatia. We recommend investing in travel Tourist information for at least one year. Seat belts must be used insurance – in the case of an emergency, you front and rear, and using a mobile while may need to go private. driving is forbidden. No under-12s are Zagreb Tourist Board Trg bana Jela±i©a allowed in the front seat. You must always 11 (01 48 14 051/www.zagreb-tourist drive with your lights on. Croatia has a zero Internet info.hr). Open Mid June-Aug 8.30am-9pm tolerance approach to drink driving. Bus or Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat; 10am-2pm Sun. Sept-mid June 8.30am-8pm Mon-Fri; 9am- rail links from the UK are lengthy. For 5pm Sat; 10am-2pm Sun. details, refer to www.raileurope.co.uk and The Sublink Internet Centar (Teslina 12, Free brochures, maps and the Zagreb Card www.eurolines.com. 01 48 11 329, www.sublink.hr; open 9am- 10pm Mon-Sat; 3-10pm Sun) is cheap and (www.zagrebcard.fivestars.hr). Call service convenient. Useful Croatian websites include Croatian Angels (0385 62 999 999) offers www.croatia.hr, www.visit-croatia.co.uk and information in English. Arrival www.zagreb.hr, www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Croatian National Tourist Office Croatia House, 162-164 Fulham Palace Zagreb’s Pleso airport is 17km (10.5 miles) Road, London W6 9ER (020 8563 7979) . south-east of the city centre. Buses (30mins Money journey time, 30kn) run to the bus station every half-hour 7am-8pm daily, then after Useful information each flight. A taxi should cost about 200kn. The (kn) comes in notes of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1,000kn. British Embassy Currently there are nearly ten kuna to the Ivana Lu±i©a 4 (01 60 09 100/british. City transport pound – divide by ten to calculate rough [email protected]). Open 8.30am- prices. Currency can be exchanged in banks, 5pm Mon-Thur; 8.30am-2pm Fri. post offices, tourist agencies, bureaux de Also refer to the Foreign Office website, Tram line Nos.2 and 6 run three stops from change and at some hotels. ATMs are www.fco.gov.uk/travel, for regularly updated the bus station to the train station, Glavni plentiful. Most hotels, shops and restaurants information related to every aspect of kolodvor. No.6 passes through trg bana accept credit and debit cards. travelling abroad. Josipa Jela±i©a, the city’s main square and crossing point. A tram ticket costs 8kn from Emergencies a newsstand (stamp on board), 10kn from Telephones Call 92 for the police, 93 for the fire brigade the driver. It is valid for 90 minutes if and 94 for an ambulance. travelling in one direction. A day ticket is 25kn. There is also a four-line network of The dialling code for Croatia is +385, Zagreb Pharmacy night trams. Tariffs and network maps are 1. When calling overseas from Croatia, the Ilica 43 (01 48 48 450). Open 24hrs daily. available at www.zet.hr. prefix 00 is the international access code. Buses serve outlying areas from the centre. Roaming mobile agreements exist with Post office Ticket tariffs are the same. foreign companies although they can be Branimirova 4 (01 48 40 340). Open Taxis are picked up from the bus and expensive. An alternative is to purchase a 24hrs Mon-Sat; 1pm-midnight Sun. train stations, outside the main hotels and local SIM card with a pre-paid subscription; Open late and right by the station. around trg bana Josipa Jela±i©a The you can usually buy a card with some starter standard rate is 25kn plus 7kn per airtime – make sure your mobile is unlocked. Visas kilometre, hiked up 20 per cent 10pm-5am, If you’re only in Croatia for a short while, it Visitors from the European Union, Canada, on Sundays and holidays. Luggage is makes sense to buy top-up vouchers at a cost USA, Australia and New Zealand do not need charged at 5kn per piece. You can call one of 50kn or 100kn. For further information, a visa if they are staying in Croatia for less on 01 66 00 671 or 970. consult www.vip.hr. than 90 days.

26 TIME OUT Zagreb