Your essential Ci ty break guide to the Croatian capital SIGHTS ARTS BARS RESTAURANTS | | | Content s Zagreb – city with one million hearts Time Out Zagreb Published by Plant d.o.o. (Time Out Croatia) Directors David Plant, Vanda Vu±i©evi© Jankova±ka 42, 10000 Zagreb, Croatia [email protected] Managing Director David Plant Editorial Editor-in-Chief Peterjon Cresswell Contributors (editorial) Aleksandar Draga∫, David Plant, Matthew Field, Peterjon Cresswell, Maja and Reuben Fowkes Contributors (photography) Vanda Vu±i©evi©, Matthew Field, Carly Calhoun, Nikola Fox ([email protected]) Additional photographs used with the kind permission of Zagreb Golf & Country Club, WHW, Cest is d’Best, Animafest, Madhouse Theatre Company, Sheraton Zagreb, Regent Esplanade, Piranha Design Art Director Enes Husein±ehaji© Photo Editor Vanda Vu±i©evi© Cover Credits Photography Vanda Vu±i©evi© Styling Mauro Massarotto Models Mato∫ Rado∫ and Anamarija Uzbinec at Midiken Digital Production Provision London Thanks to Sheriff and Cherry Printing St Ives, Peterborough, UK Distribution Time Out London, April 16 2008, and via the Zagreb Tourist Board Four of the best 4 Map JS Graphics ( [email protected] ) The Features Breaking news from Zagreb Whilst every effort and care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot accept What’s on 7 responsibility for any errors it may contain. Ideas for what to do and when All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, Market day 9 without prior permission of Time Out Croatia The city’s natural resource Thanks to Amelia Toma∫evi©, Dra∆en Hochecker (Zagreb Tourist Board, Dubravka Mici©, Iva Caleta), Shane Duffy, Jenan Peku∫i©, Will Salmon, My Zagreb 12 Cathy Runciman, Brendan McKeown Local creatives talk shop Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2008 © Chairman Tony Elliott Group Financial Director Richard Waterlow Guides Managing Director Peter Fiennes City map 14 Online Managing Director David Pepper The Essentials International Managing Director Cathy Runciman Here & Now 15 We would like to thank our advertisers for their involvement. However we stress that they have Sightseeing 16 no influence over editorial content. Produced in association with Restaurants 18 ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD Kaptol 5, 10000 Zagreb www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr Cafés & Bars 20 Published under the authority and with the collaboration of Time Out International Limited, Nightlife 22 London, UK The name and logo of Time Out are used under Hotels 24 license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London, W1T 7AB, UK Tel +44 (0) 20 7813 3000 www.timeout.com Directory 26 TIME OUT Zagreb 3 Four of the best edited books by well-known cultural putting greens, another nine-hole The inspiration behind the events theorists, printed in a distinctive par-30 course and a clubhouse set are Pajo and Had∆i from the band red-and-black layout designed by out in traditional style. Kraljevi ulice (‘Street Kings’), local close associate Dejan Kr∫i©. Recent This traditional style is no street musicians whose popularity appearances in the gallery have coincidence. Between the wars, the rose after an appearance at a included Janes Jan∫a, a Slovenian city’s international set played golf in national song contest featuring artist who famously changed his the Maksimir Park, and had strong old-fashioned melodies from the name to that of his country’s serving links with the Esplanade Hotel, home 1930s. The pair can also be seen Prime Minister, Dubrovnik art to the first Golf Club Zagreb and regularly on a local TV music show celebrity Slaven Tolj, socially venue for the annual Golfers’ Ball. and hanging around busking with engaged Zagreb artist Andreja Harking back to this period, the their instruments on Trg bana Josipa Kulun±i©, and neglected modernist GCCZ has bought the old reception Jela±i©a and Trg Petra Preradovi©a, sculptor, Vojin Baki©. desk at the Esplanade and set it up the main and flower market squares. Maja and Reuben Fowkes as a bar in the clubhouse. For the June event a stage will also For beginners there will be be set up outside the age-old Charlie European identity. In a similar vein, English-language tuition and the bar on Gajeva, with impromptu events subsequent exhibitions expanded on option of hiring a set of clubs, on pedestrianised Bogovi©eva nearby. WHWs exploration of social issues whatever your handicap. Highlights for 2008 include live and politically sensitive topics. The testing main course, 6,400 sculpture by Germany’s Bartel Mayer, Collective Creativity, staged in metres long with 11 lakes, is due Gaby Corbo’s one-woman circus from Germany in 2005, displayed the work to open on Zagreb City Day, 31 May. Argentina and Leopardman’s physical of international artist collectives, A second restaurant will be added comedy from Australia. See also p7 . including Gilbert and George and to the clubhouse plus, of course, But Cest is d’Best is not only about the Slovenian neo-avant-garde group a members’ bar. performance alone. Among the many Irwin. Back home, WHW transformed To reach the club from Zagreb by children’s activities are a huge the quiet downtown Nova Galerija, car, cross the Sava from Savska via climbing wall on Jela±i©; there is a slow strategically positioned between the the Jadranski Bridge, turn right at cycling competition, a baby marathon notorious independent Radio 101 and the roundabout towards Karlovac, and a race between local dustmen. You the avant-garde theatre ZKM, into a then right again at the second set of can even learn Croatian sign language venue to be reckoned with. Clearing traffic lights. You’ll find the main underwater. For more information, out the cellars, doubling the entrance just a kilometre ahead. refer to www.kraljeviulice.com. exhibition space and creating a Matt Fiel d Aleksandar Draga∫ Is land festival Four play screening room, the four-member Fore! N4ick Cave & the Bad Seeds headline 1Zagreb quartet Sabina Sabolovi©, collective also sought to connect 2Croatia’s first 18-hole championship- at this year’s Vip INmusic festival, Nata∫a Ili©, Ana Devi© and Ivet various alternative cultural centres standard golf course opens outside Croatia’s biggest, held on an island in Curlina, known as WHW, have been throughout Croatia through an Zagreb this May. Some 15 minutes Zagreb’s Lake Jarun. The Brighton- invited to curate the prestigious exchange initiative entitled Clubture. from the city, the Golf & Country based singer whose new album, ‘DIG, Istanbul Biennial for 2009. The all-girl The domestic programme consists Club Zagreb (Jadranska Avenija 6, LAZARUS, DIG!!!’ is released in Croatian collective, based at the little- of a multi-layered mix of exhibitions, 01 653 11 77, www.gcczagreb.hr) will March, follows Franz Ferdinand, Iggy known Galerija Nova, were selected lectures and screenings, all keenly be the best in the region, with a large Pop and Morrissey, who have all thanks to a series of groundbreaking documented in the Galerija Nova driving range of 40 grass bays and appeared at this high-profile event. events staged since 2000. newspaper. The team have also 12 covered bays for floodlit practice Shows run over two days, on Tuesday WHW (locally known as ’Vay-Ha- produced several catalogues and at night. There are chipping and 3 and Wednesday 4 June. With this Vay’) refers to the ’What, How and latest album, Cave plays with original For Whom’ demanded of every Bad Seed Mick Harvey, plus drummer economic organization that is to say Thomas Wydler, bass player Martyn what is produced, for whom, and how P Casey, pianist Conway Savage, it is distributed. The team has turned Warren Ellis, Jim Sclavunos and these questions into principles that James Johnston. The new tunes are serve as a checklist for every project moody and atmospheric, not unlike they curate. They emerged with a Street party Cave’s recent musical settings for film show coinciding with the 152nd T3he 12th running of Zagreb’s most soundtracks. Although the rest of this anniversary of the Communists endearing and unusual festival takes year’s line-up is yet to confirmed, four Manifesto. Influenced by celebrated place this June. Cest is d’Best , the stages will be set up – Vip, Nokia, Slovenian philosopher Slavoj ◊i∆ek, name derived from an association Tuborg Green and the late-night the exhibition drew attention to a of street entertainers, Cestagram, Radio 101 – and camping will be search for alternatives to a ruthless is a week-long celebration of outdoor available. More details and online economic system, and questioned the performance in prominent locations sales: www.vipinmusicfestival.com. definition of a post-communist East in and around the city’s main square. Peterjon Cresswell 4 TIME OUT Zagreb TIME OUT Zagreb 5 What’s on Madhouse “Zagreb audiences get all the jokes and give the best reaction.” Mike Kelly should know – he and his Madhouse theatre company have been performing regularly in Croatia for five years. Based in Budapest, where they have a residency at the National Theatre, Madhouse have honed their art – in this case a comedic take on Shakespeare – to suit venue and audience. The region is short of sharp, Urban Festival 2008 Cest is d’Best entertaining English-language Various venues Various venues theatre and Madhouse provide (www.urbanfestival.hr). (www.kraljeviulice.com) . it in spades. Their Hungarian Date 5-15 May. Date June. base also means that Mike, A multimedia festival of contemporary This popular celebration of street his founding partner Matt art set up at various outdoor locations entertainment is set around Zagreb Devere and newest member around the city with an annual theme.