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The Bavarian Alps

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The Bavarian Alps The Bavarian Alps Naturetrek Tour Report 5 - 12 June 2011 Clouded Apollo by Lis Allen Marmot by Lis Allen Jenner Mountain Way by Jackie England Report compiled by Dawn Nelson and Ingrid & Andy Patmore Images by Lis Allen and Jackie England Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report The Bavarian Alps Tour Leaders: Andy Patmore Ingrid Patmore Dawn Nelson Participants: Lis Allen Marina Branscombe Alwyn England Jackie England Julie Irvine Sandy Irvine Gordon Lawrence Richard Pooley Pat Price Tom Price Katherine Rose Ian Rose Jane Simon David Whitelaw Day 1 Sunday 5th June Weather: 27deg C Hot and sunny, humid in the woods and still Dawn met up with ten of the group at Stansted, three more on board and the final member of the group at baggage collection in Salzburg. We were greeted by Andy and Ingrid at arrivals, collected our minibuses and were soon loaded up and away. It was a short half hour journey from Salzburg to the village called Bischofswiesen through spectacular scenery of the Lattengebirge and Untersberg mountains. Above the village at 750m we alighted into glorious sunshine and enjoyed a light lunch at the Kastensteiner Alm Gasthof where Andy and Ingrid were able to point out the names of the surrounding mountains and valleys we would be visiting over the coming week. Following our refreshments we took a short walk through the woodland of Kastensteiner Wand to discover our first Bavarian species which included Buphthalmum salicifolium (Yellow Oxeye). The woods were carpeted with Helleborus niger (Christmas Rose) and Convalaria majalis (Lily-of - the-valley) but sadly a little past their best. However Vinctoxicum hirundinaria (Swallow-wort), Phyteuma spicata (Spiked Rampion) and Ajuga pyramidalis (Pyramidal Bugle) were at the peak of perfection. Further along the track an alpine meadow yielded Campanula patula (Spreading Bellflower), Campanula glomerata (Clustered Ballflower), Geranium pratensis (Meadow Cranesbill) and Phyteruma orbiculare (Round-headed Rampion) amongst many more. Andy was out in front with the birders who were rewarded with a glimpse of a female yearling Roe deer in a meadow and quite a large slow worm (Anguis fragilis) crossing their path. Blackcaps and a Wood Warbler sang above their heads but proved difficult to see. © Naturetrek July 11 1 The Bavarian Alps Tour Report We then crossed the valley to our hotel, on the slopes of Silberg Mountain above the Bischofswiesen valley and were greeted by Angelica wearing her dirndl (Traditional dress). After settling in we took another short walk around the hotel and found some fine examples of Neottia nidus-avis (Birdsnest Orchid), Tolfieldia calyculata (Tolfield’s or German Asphodel), Cardamine enneaphyllos (Drooping Bittercress) showing its spiky exploding seed heads, and Fragaria moschata (Hautbois Strawberry). We also saw a young Great Spotted Woodpecker waiting to be fed by a nearby adult. After a change and freshen up we enjoyed the first of many enjoyable meals at our hotel. On the terrace, following the species lists we watched the sun go down over the mountains and lights come on the cable car on the Jenner mountain way, across the valley under a crescent moon. Day 2 Monday 6th June Weather: Hot and sunny 27 deg C, high cloud shaded us late am, but clear blue sky followed early pm. Today we had a short drive to a lakeside bus stop at Hintersee, where a family of Great Crested Grebes were preening themselves out on the mirror like surface of the crystal clear lake. After dropping us off Andy and Ingrid transferred the minibuses to the car park and rejoined us. The Hiker’s bus took us up to Hirschbichl Pass (1180m) at the end of the valley and from there we walked back 5 miles, down through Klausbachtal Valley. We soon fell into the order that continued through our walks naturally spreading out with the birders taking the lead and the botanists trailing along in the rear. First spotted were the abundant Crepis aurea (Golden Hawksbeard) and Ranunculus aconitifolius (Aconite-leaved Buttercup). The Veratum album (False White Helleborine) was a fantastic sight with its strongly pleated leaves and dense clusters of creamy white flowers. Chenopodium bonus- henricus (Good King Henry) and Persicaria alpinum (Alpine Bistort) were also recorded before lunch. The birders recorded Tree Pipit and Grey Wagtail and Andy was kept occupied scanning the mountain side for Red Deer and Chamois - to no avail as it was probably too hot for them to be out in the open. In the afternoon we recorded Cephelanthera rubra (Red Helleborine) and Cephelanthera longifolia (Sword leaved Helleborine) in flower (we had seen the leaves only the previous day). Sadly, due to the early spring, the Cypridium calceolus (Lady’s Slipper Orchid) were over but we saw many tantalising remains of the flowers on robust plants, encouraging us to return next year. However as compensation we did find Pyrola rotundifolia (Round-leaved Wintergreen) and the intense blue flowers and inflated purple winged calyx of Gentiana urticulosa (Bladder Gentian). Abundant long the track side for most of the day were the starry white flowers of Saxifraga rotundiolia (Round-leaved Saxifrage). Further down the valley Jackie and Gordon spotted a Golden Eagle as it drifted effortlessly along the skyline. After returning to the hotel and freshening up we went back across to the Kastensteiner Alm gasthof for dinner, after which we were treated to a taste of the local hazelnut or plum schnapps to (as the locals say) settle the stomach! 2 © Naturetrek July 11 The Bavarian Alps Tour Report Day 3 Tuesday 7th June Weather: 26 deg C Hot sun in the am, clouded up over lunch enough for a light shower, which cleared away to hazy sun for the rest of pm Today we took the cable car up Jenner Mountain. On the way up Dawn and Jane got a good view of a Ring Ousel (Turdus torquatus alpestris). Alighting at 1800m there was a short walk to the top rewarded by hillsides awash with Pulsatilla alpina (Alpine Pasque Flower) and Trollius europeaus (Globefower), we also spotted Primula auricular (Auricula) and Polygalla alpestris (Rock Speedwell) nestled into the rock crevasses. Alpine Choughs were with us most of the morning hoping to be fed with a piece of roll and the odd Raven drifted by overhead. Walking across to Schneibstein mountain house we recorded Pinus mugo (Dwarf Mountain Pine), pale pink Rhodothalmus chamaecistus (Dwarf Alpenrose) and darker pink Rhododendron hirsutum (Hairy Alpenrose) as well as Gentiana clusii (Clusius’s Gentian), Gentiana bavarica (Bavarian Gentian) and Gentiana verna (Spring Gentian). We had our lunch under some welcome shade and discovered we were sitting amongst Homogyne alpine (Alpine Coltsfoot). Andy set up the spotting scope on several occasions so that most of the group either got a good sighting of a male Alpine Ibex standing on a distant skyline or had to believe Andy that a brown blob sitting in the shade of a crag was a female Ibex!. Andy re-trained the scope on a small rudel (herd) of female Chamois with kids, and Julie was lucky enough to see them playing on the snow but by the time Sandy got his eye to the scope they were gone! In the afternoon we split into two groups, one taking the longer and slightly more demanding route led by Andy and the other along the main track with Ingrid and Dawn. The vegetation made a dramatic change from the sub- alpine forest of stunted Larix decidua (European Larch) as we entered montane forest of towering Picea abies (Norway Spruce) planted by the salt mine foresters and native Abies alba (Silver Fir). Here we found tall stands of Cirsium oleraceum (Cabbage Thistle) and Aconitum lycotonum (Wolf’s Bane). We took a short detour to visit an ancient wooden hut, where schnapps is brewed from the Enzian roots (Gentiana spp). After meeting up with the other group, who had been lucky enough to hear a Bonelli’s Warbler identified by Richard, and had a superb view of a Black Woodpecker feeding it’s young, we continued through the alms (alpine grazing meadows) to the middle station of the cable car for our return journey down. On the way across the meadows we all had a close up view of Marmot, as well as seeing Stachys alopecurus (Yellow Betony), Doronicum austriaum (Austrian Leopard’s Bane) and Cardamine impatiens (Narrow-leaved Bittercress). A short scenic drive took us back to our hotel. Day 4 Wednesday 8th June Weather: 18 deg C Sunny periods in am, clouds building to give a heavy shower before lunch. Pm was warmer 20deg C with hazy sun This morning we headed down to Schonau in order to take a boat trip on the Konigssee (King’s Lake). This beautiful crystal clear, fjord like lake is surrounded by towering cliffs and forested slopes towering at 1000m and more above the banks, making it a popular tourist attraction. © Naturetrek July 11 3 The Bavarian Alps Tour Report To beat the crowds we set off early on one of the first boats to Saint Bartholoma, after being treated to an echo harmonising the trumpet being played by the boatmaster. Here we visited the church and took a stroll along the lakeside meadows and though woodland away from the beaten track. We spotted Phyteuma hemispherica (Globe- headed Rampion), Ophioglossum vulgatum (Common Adder’s-tongue) and Epipactis atrorubens (Dark Red Helleborine). A short but heavy rain shower, failed to dampen our spirits, but did drive us back to the shelter of the dock in order to catch the boat to the far end of the lake, where we had lunch under shelter too.
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