VYTAUTAS MAGNUS UNIVERSITY

FACULTY OF POLITICAL SCIENCE AND DIPLOMACY

PUBLIC COMMUNICATIONS DEPARTMENT

Nienke Bos

Mediated female beauty in Dutch beauty blogs

Final Master Thesis

Journalism and Media Analysis Study Program, state code 621P50002 Degree in Journalism

Supervisor______

(acad. title, name, surname) (Signature) (Date)

Defended______

(Dean of the Faculty) (Signature) (Date)

Kaunas, 2014

VYTAUTO DIDŽIOJO UNIVERSITETAS POLITIKOS MOKSLŲ IR DIPLOMATIJOS FAKULTETAS VIEŠOSIOS KOMUNIKACIJOS KATEDRA

Nienke Bos

MEDIJUOTAS MOTERIŠKUMAS GROŽIO TINKLARAŠČIUOSE: OLANDIJOS ATVEJIS

Magistro baigiamasis darbas

Žurnalistikos ir medijų analizės studijų programa, valstybinis kodas 621P50002

Žurnalistikos studijų kryptis

Vadovas (-ė)______

(Moksl. laipsnis, vardas, pavardė) (Parašas) (Data)

Apginta______

(Fakulteto/studijų instituto dekanas/direktorius) (Parašas) (Data)

Kaunas, 2014 CONTENTS

LIST OF TABLES, FIGURES AND IMAGES ...... 5

SUMMARY ...... 6

SANTRAUKA ...... 7

INTRODUCTION ...... 8

1. GENDER OBJECTIFICATION IN MEDIA ...... 11

1.1 Sexual objectification theory ...... 11

1.2 Self objectification ...... 14

1.3 Woman vs. woman ...... 16

1.4 Objectification in media ...... 18

2. CULTURAL DEVIATIONS AND EMPOWERMENT IN BEAUTY PERCEPTION ...... 24

2.1 What enhances facial attractiveness? ...... 25

2.2 Cosmetics and sexuality in branding ...... 27

3. THREE WAVES OF FEMINISM AND MAINSTREAM FEMALE MEDIA DEVELOPMENT ...... 29

3.1 First wave feminism ...... 29

3.2 Mainstream media before and during the first wave of feminism ...... 30

3.3 Second wave feminism ...... 33

3.4 Mainstream media during the second wave of feminism ...... 34

3.5 Third wave feminism ...... 36

3.6 Mainstream media during the third wave of feminism ...... 37

4. DUTCH BEAUTY BLOG RESEARCH FRAMEWORK ...... 40

4.1 Dutch beauty blog industry ...... 43

4.2 Mascha Feoktistova – Beautygloss ...... 44

4.3 Cynthia Schultz –Misslipgloss ...... 45

4.4 Serena Verbon – Beautylab ...... 45 3

5. MEDIATION OF FEMALE BEAUTY IN DUTCH BEAUTY BLOGS ...... 47

5.1 Reviews about beauty products and tools ...... 48

5.2 Diaries in photos or videos form ...... 51

5.3 Looks created as tutorials ...... 54

5.4 Fashion ...... 60

5.5 Food ...... 62

5.6 Readers interaction ...... 65

5.7 Beauty identification within blog posts ...... 66

5.8 Photoshop and beauty constructions ...... 68

5.9 Personality and individualization ...... 70

6. READERS PERCEPTIONS TOWARDS MEDIATED FEMALE BEAUTY REPRESENTATIONS 71

6.1 Inner beauty ...... 72

6.2 Identification and recognition ...... 73

6.3 Reality and perfection ...... 78

6.4 Plain face appreciation ...... 81

6.5 Body image ...... 82

6.6 Vulnerable target group ...... 83

6.7 Purchase stimulation ...... 84

6.8 Blogs vs. other media ...... 85

6.9 Beauty ideal and gender roles ...... 88

CONCLUSIONS ...... 91

REFERENCES ...... 94

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT ...... 100

ANNEX I ...... 101

ANNEX II ...... 108

ANNEX III ...... 110

4

LIST OF TABLES, FIGURES AND IMAGES

List of tables

Table 1. Magazine readership (weekly circulation) in the Netherlands in 1998 and 2011 (Bakker, 2013)…………………………………………………………………………………………..……..……39 Table 2. Amount of blog posts Beautygloss, Misslipgloss and Beautylab during January and February 2014……………………………………………………………………………………………….………47 Table 3. Amount of readers comments Beautygloss, Misslipgloss and Beautylab during January and February 2014…………………………………………………………………………….……………….48 Table 4. Food related blog posts on Beautygloss, Misslipgloss and Beautylab during January and February 2014………………………………………………………………………..……………………68 Table 5. Most commented blog posts on Beautygloss, Misslipgloss and Beautylab during January and February 2014……………………………………………………………………………………..………65

List of figures

Figure 1. Depicted facial characteristics of accompanying pictures on blog posts about looks created as tutorials on Beautygloss, Misslipgloss and Beautylab during January and February 2014………………………………………………………………………………………………...... …58

List of images

Image 1. Examples of 50s advertisements……………………………………………………...... …...…35

Image 2. Examples of everyday life pictures from various diaries of all three bloggers…………...... 52

Image 3. Examples of Mascha Feoktistova, Cynthia Schultz and Serena Verbon without wearing any make-up………………………………………………………………………….………….………...... 56

Image 4. Pictures from a step by step eye make-up tutorial by Serena Verbon on Beautylab…………...59

Image 5. Examples of advertisements depicting women with a dreamy look into the distance……….…59

Image 6. Examples of Feoktistova looking into the distance……………………………………….....….59

5

SUMMARY

As found within several media outlets before, sexually objectifying mediation of female beauty can harm women, now supplemented with findings from the Dutch beauty blogosphere. The scientific research problem being solved in this research is how female beauty is mediated within the Dutch beauty blogosphere and if beauty blog readers are being imposed to sexual objectification. The aim of this thesis is, therefore, to examine the way female beauty is mediated in Dutch beauty blogs. The objectives provide a conceptual explanation of sexual objectification of women and the role of media in constructing the perceptions of beauty, describe the concepts of cultural deviation of female attractiveness and empowerment through the beauty industry, identify the changing representations of women from the historical feminist and media perspectives, analyze mediated female beauty representations in the three largest Dutch beauty blogs and assess Beautygloss’ readers perceptions of mediated female beauty representations. The ethnographic research strategy was applied as research framework onto www.beautygloss.nl, www.misslipgloss.nl and www.beautylab.nl, including a qualitative blog content and comments analysis. The main results show that Dutch beauty blogs are perceived by its readers as more trustworthy than magazines and advertisements in conveying a realistic ideal of female beauty. Make-up is used as a woman’s own empowering benefit. Beauty bloggers do not bring forth images intentionally generating male gaze that can be recognized through mediated objectification criteria, as bloggers do not fit to these images themselves. They construct opposite representations on beauty because of their informative and educative role in make-up usage. Bloggers show themselves without make-up too and don’t use Photoshop for any facial or bodily adjustments. However, being immersed with an unrealistic amount of material beauty possessions and beauty treatments, they don’t fully conform to ‘the average girl’. The present, but rather invisible influence of commercialization, penetrates the beauty blogosphere because of lucrative advertisements needed to generate a bloggers’ income. Young girls are stimulated to use make-up from an early age onwards and norms on hair removal and bronzing are created, coming forth from beauty brands sending their wares to bloggers for free. These advertisements, claimed by the bloggers to be reviewed objectively, expose beauty blog readers to beauty products else wise connected to mediated perfection. Whereas Dutch beauty blogs emphasize on self worth and the conveyance of realistic beauty, idealization coming forth from mediated female beauty linked with sexual objectification cannot be fully opposed. Whereas beauty blog content on first hand opposes objectification because of a lack of sexualized and idealized images, the influence of advertisements supports the construction of the objectified ideal, but through an alternative, low threshold.

6

SANTRAUKA

MEDIJUOTAS MOTERIŠKUMAS GROŽIO TINKLARAŠČIUOSE: OLANDIJOS ATVEJIS

Šiame darbe, keletoje, dabartinių Olandijos grožio tinklaraščių - žiniasklaidos šaltinių, ir remiantis jų papildytomis išvadomis, buvo ištirta, kaip seksualiai personifikuojamas moterų grožis gali pakenkti moterims. Sprendžiama mokslinio tyrimo problema, tai kaip moterų grožis sukelia Olandijos grožio tinklaraščių vartotojų nuomonę ir ar grožio dienoraščio skaitytojai taiko seksualinę personalizaciją. Šio darbo tikslas yra, išnagrinėti, kaip moterų grožis yra pateikiamas skirtinguose Olandijos grožio dienraščiuose. Taip pat, papildomi darbo tikslai yra: suteikti konceptualų paaiškinimą seksualinio personalizavimo tarp moterų ir žiniasklaidos vaidmens, kuriant grožio suvokimą, apibūdinti kultūros nuokrypius į moterų patrauklumą ir įgalinimą veikti per grožio industrijos sąvokas. Taip pat, šio darbo tikslas yra identifikuoti kintančius moterų pristatymus: nuo istorinės feministinės ir žiniasklaidos perspektyų, analizuoti, kaip skiriasi moterų grožio reprezentavimas trijuose didžiausiuose Nyderlandų grožio dienraščiuose bei įvertinti Beautygloss skaitytojų suvokimą tarpininkaujant moterų grožio atstovybėms. Etnografiniams tyrimams, buvo pritaikyta strategija kaip mokslinių tyrimų sistema, remiantis www.beautygloss.nl, www.misslipgloss.nl ir www.beautylab.nl, įskaitant kokybinę dienoraščio turinio ir komentarų analizę. Darbo galutiniai rezultatai rodo, kad Nyderlandų grožio dienraščiai savo skaitytojams yra daugiau patikimi nei žurnalai ar reklamą perteikiamas tikroviškas, idealus moterų grožis. Makiažas yra naudojamas moters savęs įgalinimo naudai. Grožio tinklaraščiai savo vartotojams negali pateikti vaizdinės medžiagos, kuri, specialiai, trauktų vyrų žvilgsnį, nes tai gali būti pripažinta kaip objektizavimo kriterijus. Šie vaizdai yra pateikti priešinant prieštaravimus į grožį, jų informatyvus ir švietėjiškas vaidmuo į makiažo naudojimą. Tiklaraščių varotojai gali parodyti save be makiažo ir nereikia naudoti programinės įrangos „Photoshop“ teikiamų galimybių veido ar kūno koregavimui. Nematoma komercializacijos įtaka, įsiskverbia į grožio tinklaraščių turinį, nes tai įtakoja pelningą reklamą, reikalingas sukurti tinklaraščių pajamas. Jaunos merginos yra dirbtinai skatinamos naudoti makiažą, nuo mažens, ir sukuriamos normos dėl plaukų šalinimo ir įdegio. Šie skelbimai, nepareikalauja tinklaraštininkų būti peržiūrėtų objektyviai pateikti ir tobulinti informaciją. Moters grožio idealizavimas dažnai yra susijęs su seksualiniu moters išnaudojimu. Vis dėlto įvairūs Olandijos grožio intrnetiniai dienoraščiai akcentuoja savivertę ir natūralų grožį. Išanalizavus šių dienoraščių turinį, galima pastebėti, kad juose nėra seksualinių ir idealizuotų vaizdų, kurie ir yra vienas iš rodiklių, darančių įtaką moterų išnaudojimui. Tačiau didžiausią įtaką moterų objektizavimo plėtrai daro reklama.

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INTRODUCTION

Women and men; what a difference hormones and distinctive bodily parts can cause. From an early age onwards we’re all confronted with images of how both men and women are expected to look like. These portrayals of gender identity can be found in a wide range of media in audiovisual forms through TV but also through magazines, advertisements and virtual images on the world wide web. The depiction of women differs greatly from that of men, which might leave women disadvantaged in some cases. When a woman is sexually objectified, the emphasis is on her bodily features only, no matter how intelligent she might be. This research elaborates on mediated female beauty in Dutch beauty blogs, pointing out if sexual objectification takes place within these popular female targeted media in the Netherlands.

Research problem

The scientific research problem being solved in this research is how female beauty is mediated within the Dutch beauty blogosphere. The following research questions are formulated: What are the ways sexual objectification is imposed upon beauty blog readers? And, how do readers perceive female beauty representation within the Dutch beauty blogs?

Significance and novelty

The significance of this thesis is that it detects whether popular Dutch beauty blogs present their readers sexually objectifying content and whether beauty blog readers themselves consider beauty blogs to convey mediated female beauty that emphasizes sexual objectification. It was found that objectification through mediation can harm women’s self-esteem and that also overly body monitoring and the development of eating disorders might be triggered by objectifying images (Fredrickson and Roberts, 1997). These negative effects, however, derived from research focusing on mediated female beauty on TV, magazines and advertisements (Goffman, 1979). The importance that comes with this particular research is that a new medium, namely the Dutch beauty blogosphere, is linked with sexual objectification. Since the three leading Dutch beauty blogs Beautygloss, Misslipgloss and Beautylab receive in between 40.000 and 110.000 unique visitors a day, a large female audience is thus confronted on a daily base with the content of these virtual, free beauty platforms.

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Object

The object of this research is focusing on the ways female beauty is mediated within Dutch beauty blogs and perceived by the readers. Both the blog posts as well as the comments are analyzed through the sexual objectification theory (Fredickson and Roberts, 1997).

Aim

The aim of this thesis is to examine the way female beauty is mediated in Dutch beauty blogs.

Objectives

The research objectives of this thesis are to:

1. Provide a conceptual explanation of sexual objectification of women and the role of media in constructing the perceptions of beauty. 2. Describe the concepts of cultural deviation of female attractiveness and empowerment through the beauty industry. 3. Identify the changing representations of women from the historical feminist and media perspectives. 4. Analyze mediated female beauty representations in the three largest Dutch beauty blogs; Beautygloss, Misslipgloss and Beautylab. 5. Assess Beautygloss’ readers perceptions of mediated female beauty representations.

Research methods

The ethnographic research strategy was applied as research framework, which integrated different sources of information into one research with an emphasis on everyday life. Ethnography interfaces sociology as well as anthropology. Dutch beauty blog ethnography was researched through several means of participation. The three most popular Dutch beauty blogs, www.beautygloss.nl, www.misslipgloss.nl and www.beautylab.nl were observed, which resulted in a descriptive ethnographical coverage of beauty blog content being linked to the sexual objectification theory. All 354 blog posts from these three blogs published in the months January and February 2014 were labeled according to the content of the particular blog posts, so that in the end a general content overview came into existence comprising several categories: reviews, diaries, looks through tutorials, fashion, food, readers interaction, beauty identification and miscellaneous. A guest article ‘How does Beautygloss contribute to the image of contemporary women in society?’ was published on March 31st, 2014, on the Dutch beauty blog 9

Beautygloss, receiving 650.000 unique visitors per month. The 168 comments that derived from the discussion that was started through this blog post were eventually analyzed and summarized, presenting an everyday life audience perspective on mediated female beauty with the particular focus on an eventual detection of sexual objectification within the Dutch beauty blogosphere. The readers’ comments of Beautygloss were thus used as research sources.

Previous related research

The most essential concept linked to this ethnographic beauty blog research is the sexual objectification theory set out by the strains of Fredrickson and Roberts (1997), which carries out a better understanding on the harming causes of mediated sexual objectification, which could even pave the path towards self objectification. Both Caroline Heldman (2013) and Erving Goffman (1979) set out a set of notable examples on objectification within media, making it easier to recognize in which diverse ways sexual objectification can come across in various media outlets. The Feminine Mystique by Betty Friedan (1963) marked one of the starting points of second wave feminism and touches upon female magazines and female mediated beauty, stressing the housewife myth. Feminist Naomi Wolf (1991) touches upon the wider topic of beauty in her book The Beauty Myth, which was one of the literary key pieces of third wave feminism. She discusses how women’s standard of beauty has become a heavy weight upon their shoulders, aiming at the creation of perfectionized standards, unachievable in real life. In her book Sletvrees (Slut fear) Sunny Bergman (2013) discusses beauty norms in different cultures and asks herself why women are striving for sexy appearances, which correspond to a pornofication of society. This mix of feminist literature provides a background that tackles Western, and in particular Dutch, mainstream female media from the first wave of feminism till now.

Structural outline

In this thesis it is firstly investigated how sexual objectification is conceptually described in literature before it being applied onto Dutch beauty blogs. With this comes how culture dependent attractiveness was conveyed in mainstream Western and especially Dutch women magazines throughout the three waves of feminism, before blogs became a widespread available virtual medium. The empirical research elaborates upon the three biggest Dutch beauty blogs and their content, linked to the sexual objectification theory through the media ethnographic research strategy. Through this same method also 168 blog readers comments are analyzed, eventually answering the extent beauty blogs and sexual objectification overlap.

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1. GENDER OBJECTIFICATION IN MEDIA

In this chapter a conceptual explanation is provided on what sexual objectification actually is and which consequences it might cause for women. Furthermore, one of the causes, namely self objectification, is deeper elaborated upon, showing two types of objectifying women and a set of consequences that could diminish a woman’s quality of life. A deeper insight is provided on woman to woman behaviour, showing how sexual objectification might cause competition between females. Eventually, examples on sexual objectification are brought forth, providing more clarity on how to recognize objectification within media. The insights gained within this chapter contribute to a an understanding of the concept of sexual objectification being applied onto Dutch beauty blogs in the empirical part of this research.

1.1 Sexual objectification theory

Sexual objectification is seen by many feminists as a sign of gender inequality. When a woman is being objectified her body and her personality are disconnected from each other, so that the evaluation is about bodily features only. Inner characteristics and intelligence are not playing any role within objectification. A woman is thus solely perceived as a physical sexual object of masculine desire (Bartky, 1990). She so to say becomes the body, existing only for others’ pleasures (Stoltenberg, 1989). The sexualized evaluation of female bodies by men carries along potential dangers to harm women (Kaschak, 1992). Men have a higher tendency to objectify women than the other way around (Hall, 1984) and their observations are often linked with sexual remarks and the usage of offensive words (Gardner, 1980). The main emphasis within this research will be sexual objectification through mediated images, in order to eventually apply this knowledge onto Dutch beauty blogs. Opinions are divided on the origin of sexual objectification. The sexual objectification theory by Fredrickson and Roberts (1997) takes it as given that women do live in a world in which objectification is unavoidable and that this sexuality comes forth from the Western culture characterized by heterosexuality in which it is “the socially sanctioned right of all males to sexualize all females, regardless of age or status” (Weskott, 1986:95). Researchers bring forth two different explanations on this point of departure. Firstly, evolutionary theorists found that female attractiveness is in essence connected to the reproduction process, in which men evaluate the physical appearance of their desired mating partner in order to create the strongest offspring (Buss, 1989). This can still clearly be seen when observing animals, naturally using the same concept in order to keep their race strong and intact. Secondly, sexual objectification of the female body can also be traced back to the roots of patriarchy and the maintenance of this social 11 system, as said by some researchers (Kuhn, 1985). Within a patriarch society men function as the main authoritarian figures, meaning that besides them making all important decisions, women are dominated by them. Sexual objectification within this system, as claimed by feminists, is stimulated for a large part by pornography and its characteristics of depicted inferiority of women (Itzin, 1992). Women are thus seen as subordinate beings that aren’t capable, or better said, aren’t allowed to be entitled to equal rights. Images of human beings conveyed through media bring forth an idea of how all kinds of persons and institutions behind those pictures think or expect how men and women should look like. By perceiving all these visual images, both genders are pushed towards an expected role model. Women and men internalize these gender roles, unconsciously making them part of their identity. It’s a process that starts from an early age onwards and that is unavoidable within the media dominated Western world. It is also here that women might face their first difficulties in that they are imposed upon the idea that they are the ones looked at by others and that a female’s representation eventually signs whether or not she will or won’t be successful in life. That this doesn’t fully count the other way around is shown through an example in art by John Berger (1997), in which he shows that even centuries ago men were already depicted in a way showing women as their possessions and objects of male control and desire. This very same idea can often be reflected upon contemporary mediated female images in for example magazines or advertisements. In principal, women are the ones that appear, being looked at, while men are the ones that act, looking at women (Berger, 1997). Objectification is thus not something that only arised during the 21st century, when society became penetrated with wide spread availability of media, both in print as well as digital. There are several negative consequences objectification might cause. Firstly, women can feel a sense of shame for not being able to live up to the expectations of mediated beauty. Since it’s hard to come across any unedited images of women within media, the notion of non-achievement only grows stronger (Wolf, 1991). Even though just a small amount of girls are heavily overweight, normal sized or even skinny girls keep on comparing their bodies with this mediated perfection, though which they imprint themselves with the idea of weighing too much (Fallon & Rozin, 1985; Silberstein et al., 1987). Women, however, keep on having in mind that perfection can indeed be created, and in order to change one’s facial attractiveness or body weight, extreme measures can be considered and even taken, leading to plastic surgery or eating disorders. Also the usage of make-up and a certain style of fashion are ways to change one’s outer appearance, being less drastically though (Fredrickson & Roberts, 1996). Secondly, objectification can cause appearance anxiety. Women can feel uncertain about how their body is perceived by others. For them it is unpredictable when and how objectification takes place, which often results in overly checking and adjusting one’s appearance (Dion, Dion, Keelan, 1992). This will be further 12 elaborated upon in the next subchapter, as body monitoring can turn into a woman’s self objectification. Thirdly, sexual objectification can cause safety anxiety, the notion of feeling unsafe. An example here could be brought forth by Beneke (1982), mentioning that in case of rape, women are often held responsible for the rapists eventual action. He states that when women dress provocatively, they in fact provoke their own rape, just as well as a fight is provoked when someone punches you on the nose. It is shown that physically attractive female rape victims are blamed more intensely for the cause of their rape than women who are considered to be less attractive (Jacobson & Popovich, 1983). Thus, women seen as mere lust objects, ‘consumed’ by rapists, show the link with sexual objectification, even though it’s a confronting way on how to bring it. Concerning safety anxiety, women are found to be less eager to go outside alone during the night, rather prefer to take a dog with them when jogging and even sometimes position their keys in between their knuckles in case a sudden strike of self defense would be needed. Women paying attention to their looks on the one hand create self comfort on knowing they care well for themselves, yet, on the other hand get confronted with potential dangers by men not being able to control themselves sexually. “A culture that objectifies the female body presents women with a continuous stream of anxiety-provoking experiences, requiring them to maintain an almost chronic vigilance both to their physical appearance and to their physical safety” (Fredrickson & Roberts, 1997:183). All of the mentioned consequences on sexual objectification are a generalized concept of what women could perceive through bodily observation and evaluation by others. Some might react more vulnerable on objectification, for example through excessive dieting, than others. What Fredrickson and Roberts (1997) wanted to point out in their research is that sexual objectification is in fact widely spread within contemporary society and that it has the potential to harm women. Even though it is shown that sexual objectification can negatively influence a women’s well being, it should be stated that some women receive benefits by being judged upon their looks as well. This does come forth from a very one sided perspective though, through which only women that are the ones most vulnerable to sexual objectification can be entitled to a wide variety of life benefits, simply because of their appearance. Researchers thus have found a connection between beauty and a level of getting things done. When women are perceived to be physically attractive, they are quicker entitled to life benefits by society then when women struggle with for example obesity. Just to sketch an example; thin or normal weighing girls are more likely to get accepted at college than overweight girls. This all counts for women only, and not for men being overweight (Wooley & Wooley, 1980; Wooley, Wooley & Dyrenforth, 1979). Being attractive can thus function as a strong currency for women when it comes to their social and economic achievements (Unger, 1979), showing that a woman’s looks can highly influence her life, also in business. Yet, women might not feel too pressurized to consciously enhance their looks in 13 exchange for success, simply because the expectations of looking attractive is such a repeated pattern in a woman’s life that it would feel for her as if she would be in control of her success herself (Constanzo, 1992). The downside of acquiring success through beauty is that the sole factor of this good luck is appearance based, which can be disadvantageous when a good looking woman emphasizes on a highly intelligent idea, but when her looks carry away the attention of her ideas. Sexual objectification can generally be seen as women-unfriendly. Objectification can cause anxiety, but in some cases beauty might have beneficial side effects that entitle women that fit to the mediated beauty ideal to life benefits. Nevertheless, these benefits aren’t contributing at all to equal rights for women, through which the word benefit is actually not at its place in this context. Women being judged upon their bodily features only, without any inner characteristics or intelligence being taken into consideration, can thus be confronted with subordinate ideas on femininity by mediated female beauty and men’s objectifying behavior. The next sub chapter shows that women themselves may also have a share within objectification.

1.2 Self objectification

Whereas the above part linked outside forces to sexual objectification, the topic is now tackled a little deeper, from a woman’s insider perspective. Often patriarchy is criticized for the negative effects women face through sexual objectification. This then concerns male behavior towards females. Important to mention is thus that women themselves can also play a large role within objectification. Many namely objectify themselves, meaning that they stress their own femininity and sexuality by wearing revealing or curve emphasizing clothes, obvious make-up or by using particular women-unfriendly words amongst each other. Some might call it self-objectification, while yet others see it as women’s sexual liberty. Extreme openness on sexuality, resulting from both the second and third wave of feminism, is something not everybody values on the same level. There is a thin line between objectification and women’s so called liberty. Levy (2005) points out that watching explicit pornography as a female, or participating in a wet t-shirt contest, have become characteristics of some specific waves within feminism nowadays. Others might argue that this so called empowerment is just pure sexual objectification, because of the sole emphasis on female bodily features. There is thus a blurred idea on sexuality and beauty that is viewed upon in two opposite ways. On the one hand the women making themselves pretty with make-up and by wearing clothes that best emphasize their femininity are being seen as sexually liberated females that wear make-up, dress feminine and have sex fully because of their own pleasure. On the other hand the women are, because of those very same factors, seen as inferior to men, as they wear make-up, dress feminine and

14 have sex in order to please men. This dichotomy is confusing and leaves it up to the woman herself how she perceives her behavior, but also to men perceiving the behavior of the women, which could be opposite of what the woman wants to carry out (Levy, 2005). The characteristics of the empowered woman forms the base of what Levy (2005) calls the raunch culture. She distinguishes two type of girls committing to objectifying behavior, calling them Female Chauvinist Pigs. The first type of women are not typical girly-girls and rather distance themselves from carrying out very feminine behavior. They for example dress rather gender neutral and don’t wear much make-up. At the same time this type of woman objectify these rather girly girls, in this way acting similar like some men would do when watching women. The female objectifiers are furthermore generally characterized by having no problems with going to strip clubs and viewing sexually explicit material in magazines. Even though they’re women, their behavior is rather manly. They objectify fellow women, but not themselves. The second type of Female Chauvinst Pig is the type of woman that sexually objectifies herself. She carries out the stereotypical, overly female image by her choice in make-up, accessories and clothing and, therefore, consciously conveys herself into an object of desire. Levy (2005) criticizes popular culture media on bringing across a notion of overvalued beauty through make-up and clothing and that hotness, sexiness and attractiveness are pushed to the foreground instead of intelligence. It will be investigated in the empirical part of this thesis whether or not Dutch beauty blogs also convey this very same idea. Besides the critique on contemporary media, Levy (2005) argues that men have tried to push female’s notion of sexual liberty towards their own needs, and that only because of that, taking a course in pole dancing is targeted as empowering and sexually liberating, even though it’s still satisfying men’s desires. Dr. Caroline Heldman (2013) opposes to the notion of women’s sexual empowerment through wearing particular clothing or make-up, stating it’s not as forceful as they might think it is. She carries out that even though a woman is perceived the most attractive of all, receiving all male desire she could get, the object-subject dichotomy would always keep women in a position as being acted upon, whilst men keep on representing the subjects that act. This would thus not create any empowerment for women at all (Heldman, 2013). Whether women would feel empowered or not, self objectification can diminish a woman’s quality of life through the over achievement of body monitoring that it could bring forth. This can be due to men that sexually objectify women, but also through mediated beauty in magazines or in advertisements that are so obviously spread within media, but also often can be spotted on practically every corner of the street. Firstly, a woman might be less capable of enjoying the here and now to the fullest. This is linked to what Simone de Beauvoir (1952) once called the doubled woman. In the transition phase of being a girl towards becoming a women, a female’s thought of being her inner self 15 only, is suddenly accompanied by the consciousness of her body that’s being observed by others. Besides representing her inside, a large emphasis suddenly strikes down on her appearance and what her looks intentionally or unintentionally carry out. Surrendering to one’s senses can, therefore, to a certain extend be diminished by this constant awareness of what an appearance transmits (de Beauvoir, 1952). Secondly, women might start to see themselves from a viewer’s perspective and their cognitive functions, for example during intercourse, could be concerned to a large degree in how her partner perceives her hair or how a little thigh fat can be positioned in the most unnoticeable way. Women on average tend to monitor their own body every thirty seconds, taking away so much thinking capabilities that could rather be used for intellectual purposes. The problem only is that this monitoring comes natural and that it’s impossible to just switch it off all of a sudden (Heldman, 2013). Thirdly, this disconnection between the inner and outer body results in female’s inability to properly detect inner physical occurrings. While adapting to an observer perspective of their own bodies, women are less accurate in naming specific pains or bodily features, like the rhythm of their heart, in comparison with men who do not face this doubled being (Lerner, 1993; Katkin, Blascovich, & Goldband, 1981). This could furthermore lead to the fourth problem arising because of self objectification. Because of distorted feelings on bodily functions, women might be more prone to involve themselves in excessive dieting in order to achieve the unattainable mediated beauty ideal. This goes hand in hand with mediated perfection on beauty, which is obtained through the depiction of beautiful models that additionally are Photoshopped to create an even more unattainable image of beauty. Dieting eventually often comes with hunger, especially when the aversion against food turns into an eating disorder. Women’s ability to suppress hunger could, therefore, be intertwined with the less specific denomination of internal bodily matters (Dornbusch et al., 1978; Heatherton et al., 1989). It is, therefore, important to investigate whether or not Dutch beauty blogs provide articles that stimulate their readers to strive for a non-existing beauty ideal by for example dieting. Self objectification thus shows that women’s body monitoring can endanger their health, but that there is no clear consensus on the usage of make-up, wearing feminine clothes and sexual liberty being empowering or rather a means of subordination and objectification. The upcoming chapter digs deeper onto the sexualized female sphere.

1.3 Woman vs. woman

Being a woman myself, this very matter of self-objectification partly made me understand the non- understanding of men about women. Easily sketched, women do like to be perceived beautiful and feel confident through the usage of make-up. However, when men comment on these looks or simply check out bodily features for a couple of seconds too long, women could feel like being judged by their

16 appearance only. A woman’s self worth is then equalized with her looks, through which she’s objectified and even could start to self objectify. Still, when nobody pays attention to a girl that has put all her creativity in carrying out her identity through for example make-up, this whole passing by unnoted also generates dissatisfaction because of ignorance from the people surrounding this particular girl. Exactly this makes women hard to understand. It’s like saying “I want an apple, but I don’t want it”. On one side women like to be noted, experiencing joy in looking good and feeling that others perceive that they do in fact look good. Taking care of one’s self can generate confidence and a general notion of feeling good. On the other side, the line of objectification is easily crossed. Contemporary society has difficulties valuing both a woman’s intellectual capabilities and a well taken care of appearance within one single frame. Women can carry out empowerment through make-up, even though as discussed within the previous sub chapter, this power can sometimes be doubted upon. Here it can be noted that objectification isn’t solely connected to being tall and slim, but that facial attractiveness and its improvement through make-up also should be taken into account when sexual objectification is addressed. Many researchers have proven that men are more attracted to women wearing make-up (Russell, 1979). The enjoyment in feeling wanted rises another issue that can negatively affect women. In her TEDxYouth@SanDiego talk, Dr. Caroline Heldman (2013) addresses that the fulfillment women get when receiving male attention can generate feelings of hatred within a female circle. The wish to be the most desirable and attractive of them all makes them see other women as competitors. Whereas many women speak out to be against sole bodily focus, their behavioral pattern when being surrounded by other women shows the complete opposite. Heldman (2013) states that deeply inside, women actually do want to be seen as sexual objects, that attractive looking girls are actually shaping a vicious picking order and that the largest amount of male attention is the only goal to strive for. This has the unpleasant effect that women might be less able to get along with other women and that rivalry will stand in their way in all types of social situations. There is a constant competition to higher one’s self esteem through the strived for male attention, and when all women act upon that in some extent, friction will arise in female to female contact. One can never be good enough, especially in a world in which women mirror themselves to unattainable female images that are generated with the use of Photoshop. A deeper explanation on the constant comparison between women can be found in the female identification with their mother. Because of the maternal care, girls develop a closeness with their mother, being of the same sex. Boys on the other hand already sense in an early stage that their sex differs from the one that played a vital role in its existence; their mother. To clarify, they simply discover their mother doesn’t have a penis. Because of this, men grow up with a sense of de-connectivity, focusing largely on individuality, whereas a girls’ being is much more connected with her close relation to likewise others 17

(Byars, 1991). This explains the mirroring with other women, which through hypersexualized and over idealized beauty images is aimed to obtain the non-achievable. Because females never really distanced themselves from their mothers because of bodily resemblances, opposite of what boys have been through, girls are said to carry in general both a homosexual as well as a heterosexual desire with them.

“…the female spectator looking at women is always involved in a double desire: an active homosexual one which is rooted in the bond with her mother and a passive heterosexual one stemming from her identification with women as object of the male gaze” (van Zoonen, 1994: 93- 94).

Let it thus be clear that this statement justifies why also female magazines depict scantily clad women, but that it should not be concluded now that all females are lesbian. All in all, women might be burdened with both the anxiety for objectifying men and pretty women in their surrounding, the latter causing friction because of the natural characteristic of women to keep on being connected closely. Now that the general struggles with sexual objectification are highlighted, it is time to elaborate on some examples how objectification can actually be recognized.

1.4 Objectification in media

Fredrickson and Roberts (1997) point out that within the Western culture it’s impossible to avoid coming across sexually objectifying images. Also Heldman (2013) brings forth this fact by showing that people would in general perceive around 500 advertisements a day in 1971, whereas the number in 2011 would be closer to 5000 advertisements per single day. She furthermore notes that children are already confronted with an enormous amount of media at a young age since they spend on average 8 hours a day with computers, phones, televisions or magazines; all platforms through which hypersexualized advertisements can reach the young souls. “The more legal and material hindrances women have broken through, the more strictly and heavily and cruelly images of female beauty have come to weigh upon us” (Wolf, 1991:10). The general features of beauty as conveyed through mass media are that women are white, tall, skinny, but with rather large breasts and long legs, looking fit and healthy. This image of female mediated perfection hardly ever shows any signs of aging like wrinkles or under eye circles. Their skin almost looks airbrushed, without blemishes or pores to be seen. Often images of females bring forth a rather contradictory message. With a large emphasis on a youthful appearance, without hardly any signs of aging to be seen, women are often depicted as innocent and child-like. Yet, women are at the same time 18 often shown as sexual objects too. “Somehow we are supposed to be both sexy and virginal, experienced and naïve, seductive and chaste” (Peach, 1988:130). This confusing image in which the infantile is so closely connected to sexuality might be of harm for young children unthinkingly taking over behavior of what they perceive through media. Besides them being exposed to sexuality, they might take over examples from widespread media concerning particular clothing and make-up usage. Young girls could in this way consider the usage of cosmetics as a must in order to conform to mediated female images that show them how they ought to look like. The very same counts for clothing, as specific body parts like breasts and buttocks are often highlighted in advertisements without being covered by too many clothes. Young girls being in the transition phase from being a child to becoming a grown up woman are, with the search for their identity, a vulnerable target group. In the empirical part of this thesis when blog comments will be analyzed, it will be shown whether Dutch beauty blog readers also mirror themselves to beauty bloggers or if bloggers rather function as perfectionized examples that convey an unrealistic beauty ideal. Fredrickson and Roberts (1997) conducted a list of male-gaze enhancing female image outlets, which were surely not to be found within the sphere of pornography only. TV music videos (Sommers- Flanagan et al., 1993), advertisements (Goffman, 1979), main-stream films (van Zoonen, 1994) and just the overall broadcasted TV shows (Copeland, 1989) have shown to emphasize sexual gaze towards women. The same counts for women magazines (Ferguson, 1978) in which female readers are confronted with objectifying images of their own kind. It furthermore even happens in sports photography (Duncan, 1990) and visual arts (Berger, 1992). Since no information on the representation of women within female targeted blogs could be found, this thesis serves to provide an answer. In order to link Dutch beauty blogs with sexual objectification, first a clearer image is sketched on the recognition of objectification within media. Within feminist media studies the mediated images of women have been researched thoroughly. Returning representations of women were eventually categorized within seven different spheres.

1. Men are seen more often in television commercials than women. 2. Radio and TV commercials conveying important messages are rather brought forth by a male voice than a female one. 3. Women are underrepresented within workforce representation. If they do, they are often depicted fulfilling professional jobs, whereas they are less often shown as low-skilled workers, even though many women do work within this field. 4. Men are way less often depicted as in fulfilling household duties.

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5. Whereas men are rather shown as being individuals, women are often depicted as part of a group of people, like a family. 6. Women are often shown in a passive way that could lead to sexual objectification and the idea of dependency of men 7. Women are often represented as being their body, with a seductive focus on specific body parts, whereas men are often depicted with a focus on their face. Furthermore, with both a man and woman in one picture, the man is often positioned slightly higher or above the female. (Peach, 1988: 119-120).

Knowing now how women are often (but certainly not always) portrayed within media, it should also be stated that it was investigated how women are almost never shown on still or moving images. Goffman (1979) researched the female depiction within advertisements and found out that men are hardly ever positioned in a vulnerable, subordinate position, especially with a women then being positioned in a dominant kind of way. Women are, therefore, also hardly ever shown as being taller than a man. Furthermore, with both a male and female within one picture, it is hardly ever the case the man looks into the distance in a dreamy way, women, however, do. Goffman (1979) noted a women is almost never to be seen positioning her hands in a tight, powerful way. In case of images accompanying a certain instruction, women hardly ever fulfill the teacher function, but are rather the ones being thought by a man. Lastly, men aren’t shown that often with children nearby, which is, however, the case with women. In her Tedx talk, Dr. Caroline Heldman (2013) brings forth a sexual objectification test, which provides seven different examples on in which way females might be objectified in media. These connect to points six and seven above, elaborating more deeply upon the matter of sexual female representation within media. When only one of these questions can be answered with ‘yes’, one is most probably dealing with sexual objectification already.

1. Does the image show only part(s) of a sexualized person’s body? 2. Does the image present a sexualized person as a stand-in for an object? 3. Does the image show a sexualized person as interchangeable? 4. Does the image affirm the idea of violating the bodily integrity of a sexualized person that can’t consent? 5. Does the image suggest that sexual availability is the defining characteristic of the person? 6. Does the image show a sexualized person as a commodity (something that can be bought and sold)?

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7. Does the image treat a sexualized person’s body as a canvas (as in projecting something, simple facial make-up not meant)? (Heldman, 2013)

Not only men’s magazines are being filled with pictures of almost nude females. It only needs a quick look at the magazine shelf at your local grocery store to see that also magazines targeted for female readership contain an abundance of scantily clad women. Heldman (2013) explains this by stating it’s not the sex that sells, but rather the mere ideas of subjectivity and objectivity. Men feel powerful when seeing objectified women, and women on the other hand put strength from the desire men carry out when seeing females in this particular way. This eventually leads to an abundance of scantily clad women in both male and female targeted magazines (Heldman, 2013). As argued by Berger (1992), the general perspective through which contemporary society is perceived is through the eyes of men. This brings forth the notion of male spectatorship towards women. Because of this leading view, women eventually start to see the world through men’s eyes. This creates extra awareness on a female’s own body, but also on the looks of other women like elaborated upon in the previous sub chapter. The depiction of women within media is rather bringing forth a distorted image of society. Images of women generally convey a very feminine spirit, and women with rather unfeminine, or non-model-like characteristics, are often slightly invisible within media. This counts for example also for elderly or handicapped women, or the ones showing masculine characteristics, clothing or appearance-wise. Often women are represented as their sole bodies, which are evaluated more heavily upon then on the possible intelligent message they want to convey. This appearance based judgment that derived through female mediated images is something that penetrated society so deeply, that Itzin (1992) even claims that women nowadays don’t even notice that they’re actually mistreated. In her eyes, women are accustomed to the images of stereotyped, bodily focused depictions of women. Furthermore, with mass media providing mainly entertainment, the commercial mechanism behind it is easily faded away. The very reason for the existence of widespread media is to create an audience for advertisers and their commercials (Peach, 1988). When reflecting the negative outcomes of sexual objectification and self objectification upon the cosmetics industry, we can see that there are similarities on how these systems work. Both objectification and make-up start from a plain women being unsatisfied, firstly because media shows her she doesn’t live up to the ideal beauty image. Manipulated images of mediated beauty are to be found without much effort to be done for it. Secondly, research showed that cosmetics are bought primarily for emotional reasons (Apaolaza-Ibañez et al, 2011). Without these products women would just feel somewhat unhappy, just as through the realization mediated exaggerated beauty brings forth. In order to beat the negative effects that

21 both objectification and the empty feeling without cosmetics usage cause, measures are taken in the shape of bodily adjustments. In case of sexual objectification, and as highlighted by Fredrickson and Roberts (1997), this can cause several negative downfalls, like dieting. Satisfaction could temporarily be found in this monitoring behavior, yet, in the long term and when still being confronted with aging and images that cannot be topped appearance-wise, it brings forth only dissatisfaction, not even to mention the further health risks that could elude from this behavior. Also make-up usage might be used as a tool to initially overcome mediated female perfection. Even though empowerment through make-up usage is up to discussion, the usage of cosmetics can thus temporarily make women feel better. A research that was conducted at the University of the Basque Country (Apaolaza-Ibañez et al, 2011) shows off that this is the very point where the whole system takes an unexpected turn by the use of theory of social comparison. In order for women to feel better about themselves, products are bought that stimulate the creation of positive emotions, making women feel good about paying a proper amount of money and attention to their own well-being. However, to convince women that they are in need of certain cosmetics, cosmetic manufacturers first have to create an atmosphere in which the woman feels like being in need of these very products. This is achieved by subtly conveying them the message that they’re indeed not good enough and that the purchase of cosmetics is the solution to overcome this discomfort. The usage of way above average pretty women in cosmetics advertisements, perfectionzed by Photoshop, can create this notion that a woman is in need of products to enhance her own beauty. Consumers thus mirror their appearance to unachievable beauty images in advertisements, imprinting themselves with the thought that without the usage of these cosmetic products they are certainly not pretty enough. Images of unrealistic beauty or even just of above average good looking models can, therefore, have strong effects on one’s self esteem (Apaolaza-Ibañez et al, 2011). Concluding, objectification as described in media shows that mediated sexual objectification is harmful to women and that generally men objectify women. The emphasis is on bodily features without the inner characteristics or intelligence of women. Consequences of sexual objectification are that women feel a sense of shame for not being able to live up to the expectations of the mediated and often objectifying beauty ideal, suffer from appearance anxiety that makes them uncertain, and safety anxiety, meaning that dressing up nicely, wearing make-up and generally just looking good might cause the fear of sexual harassment. Also self objectification, thus, women objectifying other females or even themselves, can occur. Consequences of this self objectifying behavior are a diminished enjoyment of life, seeing one’s self from a viewers perspective, being unable to detect inner physical occurings and being more prone to excessive dieting. These problems could arise when seeing objectifying images within media. The fierce consciousness of one’s appearance could furthermore trigger woman to woman 22 competitiveness on whom looks most desirable. Sexual objectification can be seen within media in the way how women are depicted in images. Women are often shown in subordinate positions in which they function as a sexual object of desire. Female mediated beauty that is sexually objectifying often show scantily clad, pretty women conveying a beauty ideal being unattainable. While beauty is something being looked upon differently in various parts of the world, the next chapter will elaborate upon this particular diversity.

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2. CULTURAL DEVIATIONS AND EMPOWERMENT IN BEAUTY PERCEPTION

In this chapter a general idea is sketched on beauty ideals conveyed through Western media. This part is especially valuable for readers outside the Western world in order to understand which beauty esthetics are valued in the West, and which ideals of beauty don’t particularly find appreciation. Whereas this chapter starts off with a brief but very broad comparison of extremes in beauty, the following sub chapter elaborates on more usual beauty standards which also can be traced back within the Dutch beauty blogs being observed in the empirical part of this research. It is explained what actually makes a female face looks pretty when it comes to make-up. Men or even women having no idea on beauty obtained through make-up can find a general understanding here, which helps them to overcome any vagueness when going through the beauty blog content coverage findable in chapter five. In the sub chapter eventually concluding this very chapter you’re reading now, make-up is being linked with sexuality through a small scaled review of beauty brands labeling their products with on first sight women unfriendly, sexualized terms. As we have seen in the previous chapter, looks play a great part in objectification, whether it might be in sexual- or self objectification. The more desirable a woman appears through the usage of make-up or clothing, the more aspects of objectification arise that might be harmful through objectified female mediation. Attractiveness is, however, something highly subjective and beauty standards differ greatly in various cultures around the globe. Beauty is not something universal and, furthermore, beauty standards are affected by time. Despite Dove’s Real Women campaign, claiming to show accurate female bodies with realistic sizes, the once so ideally valuated voluptuous bodies painted by Peter Paul Rubens echo no reply towards contemporary beauty standards in which average fashion models weigh about 23% less in comparison with average American women (Coopersmith, 2006). Dutch documentary maker Sunny Bergman (2013) shines a light on varying and even opposite beauty values in her documentaries Beperkt Houdbaar (Limited Preservation), Sunny Side of Sex and Sletvrees (slut fear). Her homonymous book Sletvrees elaborates on her findings in greater detail. The main question throughout the book is why women whom have intercourse with several men are labeled as sluts, whereas men are rather seen as cool because of their sexual history with several women. In her work, she links sexuality with beauty, criticizing the mediated female image that is overly edited by Photoshop. That bodily esthetics vary greatly in different parts of the world is shown though several rather intimate examples. A consultation from a plastic surgeon in America results in a private TV

24 moment. While Bergman (2007) controls the camera, she films the gynecologist inspecting her vagina while he heavily criticizes which kind of surgeries she’s in need of. “You could really, really stand for a laser vaginal rejuvenation. 100%. Also, you have too much fat on your mons pubis. You need the full work my dear. With my operations I guarantee you the Playboy look” as said by doctor Matlock, owner of The Laser Vaginal Rejuventation Institute (Bergman, 2007). The beauty ideal on vaginal beauty derived purely from pornography, shown to affect youngsters to strive for this perfection after them having seen so many sexual images within media. In their eyes, mediated perfection became their means of understanding how bodies look like, whereas they didn’t realize that reality and mediated female beauty can often be two separate worlds. During a visit to Kampala, the capital of Uganda, Bergman (2013) came across the complete opposite ideal of feminine beauty. She was told by radio maker and adviser on sexuality Brenda, that a woman’s inner labia should be as stretched out as possible. This in order to maximize sexual pleasure. Girls are, therefore, advised to stretch their labia on a daily basis. In an open and revealing consultation with Bergman, Brenda speaks out her sorrows, stating Bergman’s labia are rather short. This stands in sharp contrast with the statements made by doctor Madlock in America, showing how the cultural context plays a defining role when it comes to beauty norms. Wolf (1991) describes the customs of the Nigerian Wodaabe tribe, showing with this example that women are not always expected to use make-up. The Wodaabe women hold economic power and put a high emphasis on male beauty. These men wear full face make-up with precisely black painted lips. They move sensually, swaying their hips, and even compete in beauty contests during which they are evaluated by women (Wolf, 1991). With the above examples in mind the matter of sexual objectification is something that cannot be applied easily on a world-scale and that the outcomes of this research, fitting to the Western World, might have essentially different outcomes than when being applied onto other, more exotic cultures. In the West, sexualized images bring forth the emphasis of female body parts, in accordance with femininity emphasizing clothes and femininity strengthening make-up. With an abundance of images conveying this very same ideal, norms are created on how women ought to look like, with the emphasis of being lust objects for male pleasure. As Dutch beauty blogs consist for a large part out of blog posts elaborating on the usage of cosmetics, the upcoming chapter will dig a little deeper into what makes female faces attractive.

2.1 What enhances facial attractiveness?

Even though everybody has his or her own taste on the perception of attractiveness, it is shown that there are several returning facial features that are found to be valued as handsome for a large group of

25 people. The reason why attractiveness through make-up is emphasized here is because sexual objectification is related to the visual pleasure that objectifiers perceive. With make-up, a face looks more feminine and thus, as stated by Richard Russell (1979), more attractive. It’s up for discussion whether make-up serves as a tool of female empowerment or rather as a means of subordination. Still, women could, by using specific make-up products and by applying them properly, make themselves more desirable. In this way make-up can strengthen women’s self worth by making them feel good about their efforts to take care of their appearance. Nevertheless, this improvement of looks trough make-up can generate more lust related thoughts from men’s side, which could eventually develop into sexual objectification. The woman’s appearance then takes that much attention that nothing else than just her body and in particular her face are evaluated. By elaborating on which facial features are, with the usage of make-up, seen as attractive, a more thorough understanding is generated on the mechanism of Dutch beauty blogs. These blogs focus on make-up products and can thus on first sight be seen as platforms paralleling magazines and advertisements that are criticized for conveying an unrealistic beauty ideal, merged with mediated sexual objectification. Female attractiveness might thus be influenced by the usage of cosmetics. This comes forth from a study emphasizing on cosmetics enhancing female Caucasian attractiveness (Melhern, R. et al., 2003). It shows which cosmetic products are considered to improve one’s appearance. Five pictures were made from ten female volunteers. All of them were supported by a make-up artist being responsible for their make-up. The first picture contained a person’s plain face, without any make-up at all. On the second, foundation was applied, which is a skin colored liquid concealing impurities and thin wrinkles. The third picture depicted the women with eye make-up, consisting of mascara to darken and optically enlarge the eye lashes, eyeliner to define the eye contour and eye shadow to create more prominence of the eyes. Lipstick was used on the forth picture. Whereas picture two, three and four emphasized on just one facially enhanced aspect each time, picture five depicted all the make-up usage in one complete look. The five pictures were eventually evaluated by both men and women, expressing their ideas on perceived beauty. It was investigated that men especially consider women attractive which have clear neoteny facial features. This means that a woman’s face resembles something child-like. Big eyes and full lips are examples of this facial neoteny (Jones et al., 1995). The results of the photo experiment show that both women and men considered the pictures depicting women wearing full face make-up as more attractive than the pictures on which the volunteers did not wear any make-up at all. With the first chapter in mind, it can now be noted that wearing make-up can thus be a factor within sexual objectification, as an attractive appearance generates more vulnerability on the actual act of objectification by men, but also as 26 seen in advertisements. Women tended to value eye-make up as main attractive-makers, while men judged eye make-up as well as the usage of foundation to cause the most desirable difference. The remarkable outcome of this study is that lipstick was not proven to make female Caucasian faces to appear more attractive. This despite the fact that lipstick can create optically larger looking lips, enhancing female’s neoteny facial features. Nevertheless, this research shows that women are considered to look more attractive when wearing make-up than without wearing make-up at all (Melhern, R. et al., 2003), which eventually shows that sexual objectification and cosmetics are often seen together. Sexuality and cosmetic product names also go hand in hand, as to be see within the following sub chapter.

2.2 Cosmetics and sexuality in branding

Cosmetic brands aren’t free from establishing a link between make-up usage and sexuality. Brands often mark their products with names instead of numbers only. Especially NARS and nail polish manufacturer Cheeky Monkey market their cosmetics with sexist names. NARS’s bestselling blush is called Orgasm, even though there are also blushes available called Deep Throat, Sex Machine, Foreplay Orgasm or G-spot Multiple. Cheeky Monkey comes with labels like Cheap Whore, Nympho, Make Me Moist, Spank Me or Hot Slut, marketing their nail polishes. These on first hand offensive titles are, however, chosen to achieve the complete opposite of an undermining role of women. The headline behind these nail polishes is ‘Cheeky Monkey is quality with a giggle’, targeting on women who ‘get the joke’. Cheeky Monkey sees their clients as women being the furthest away from cheap whores, as shown by the company’s philosophy described on their webpage www.cheekymonkeycosmetics.com. Thus, regarding the Cheeky Monkey case, the sexist product names rather promote women’s sexual freedom than confining them to be mere thoughtless objects.

“Cheeky Monkey Cosmetics is centered on the belief that all women should be free to express their personal edginess in a fun and empowering way. Our products act as a tool providing an avenue and philosophy to engage, explore or rediscover the edginess that animates all of us”, as shown on their website.

Every nail polish color is accompanied by a story, which creates some sort of an atmosphere behind the particular colors. These anecdotes mainly feature sexual empowered women being open about their own gaze. The nail polish named Nail Me is medium soft red colored with a hint of blue. Its accompanying story is about a women being on a holiday in Honolulu. The scene takes objectifying measures as known from men objectifying women. Yet, now it’s the woman focusing on men’s

27 appearance alone, without any attention for anything else than this physical attraction. “Having read, and looked at, many, many model magazines while waiting at the grocery checkout, I became familiar with a lot if not all of the hot men within the covers”. The story continues on the streets of Honolulu where the woman comes across a good looking man. “This man was built for sex and love <…> wearing a tight shirt and very revealing running shorts as a flip flop going side to side showing off this manly hood. I was aghast to see this Adonis walking towards me”. She then dropped her coffee, walked into a street lamp and was helped up again by the man. “Laying on my back with him over me was unreal. I wanted to be nailed by that man right then and there”. Without revealing true actions, the stories do, however, have a pornographic touch. The way how Cheeky Monkey markets its products is almost exactly the same as what men, advertisements or magazines are criticized of, only than the exact other way around with powerful women being sexually liberated while objectifying men, thus, by valuing in a way of lust and desire the masculine body without taking inner characteristics or intelligence into account. This idea of make-up branding conforms to the idea of empowerment within the dichotomy as mentioned already before. Some might consider make-up usage as an empowering factor of women in order to feel more self confident and strong, yet, others might rather see the usage of make-up as a means of subordination towards men. Cheeky Monkey thus rather brings forth an independent female image in which women feel powerful through their good looks, being in charge of life in the way they want to live it. Also NARS briefly mentions their image as created through the sexist named blushes, referring to it as ‘witty irreverence’ on their website www.narscosmetics.eu. They furthermore claim to be known for their modern cult classic, synonymous with artistry, exquisite design and richly adventurous colors. NARS wants their customers to indulge in its founder’s idea of total beauty, making a statement and expressing one’s self. “Find your own way, have an open spirit and believe in your own beauty”, as praised by Francois Nars on the company website. It is thus about fun and creativity, not about any subordinate ideals. All in all this chapter thus showed that beauty perceptions differ greatly in various parts of the world and that even though attractiveness is something highly subjective, make-up does contribute to the idea that women are found to be more attractive while wearing especially foundation and eye make-up, strengthening their facial expression. Even though women wearing make-up might be more quickly objectified because of their improved appearance that might bring forth lust and desire, make-up brands like Cheeky Monkey and Nars tackle sexuality with humor, linking products with provocative, sexual names with the aim of highlighting female sexual empowerment.

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3. THREE WAVES OF FEMINISM AND MAINSTREAM FEMALE MEDIA DEVELOPMENT

It’s deeply rooted within the female being: the desire to be beautiful. Whereas masculine animals are normally the ones showing off their abundance of colors, evolution has turned it the other way around when it comes to human beings. Women’s usage of make-up has become such a normality that thinking about its deepest essence might let people blush without even applying a hint of rouge on their cheeks. Animals make attractive sounds, maybe even do a little dance, present their best colored feathers or even get fire red bottoms in order to show the other sex they are ready to mate. Women on the other hand might apply this same fire red color through a smooth lipstick on their mouths, suggesting the blood circulation of their labia signs a readiness for intercourse. Even though lipstick users nowadays don’t consciously link their lips to their labia, beauty still has its close ties with sexism. Feminist Naomi Wolf (1991) states in The Beauty Myth that nowadays the pornofication of society has such an immense influence on young females that they can hardly “distinguish the role pornography plays in creating their idea of how to be, look, and move in sex from their own innate sense of sexual identity” (Wolf, 1991:5). In this chapter characteristics of female media are placed within a historical context by elaborating briefly on the main distinctions of several waves of feminism. Major literary feminist works of those times by Betty Friedan (1963) and Naomi Wolf (1991) are discussed and supplemented with both American and particular Dutch media characteristics on female beauty. The coverage of female mediated beauty through three waves of feminism provides a starting point on the later comparison and more thorough understanding of Dutch beauty blogs and their mechanism on conveying beauty and feminine characteristics.

3.1 First wave feminism

The first wave of feminism characterized the years around 1870 till 1920 and was mainly led by white, well-educated women with a middle class background. The main aim of this movement was to gain suffrage for women and to show how dominating white males emphasized on sexism and racism. In general, feminists wanted to achieve women becoming free beings capable of making their own choices, carrying out their own potentials to the fullest and becoming worthy, fully accepted members of society (Kool-Smit, 1967). The first wave of feminism opposed the general idea of women only being capable of serving as housewives, taking care of their husbands and children. Women were not expected to interfere with public activities, which shows that their demand for suffrage was an exception from their expected

29 role model. Aletta Jacobs was the key figure in women’s suffrage in the Netherlands. She was the first one to graduate as a female doctor. In 1883, Jacobs took the first step in demanding suffrage for women, starting a battle that lasted for decades. Jacobs stated that she, being a doctor, earned enough to be entitled as a voter. Men with the same income were indeed capable of voting. Only in 1918 a law was adopted that ensured women the right to vote. During the elections in 1922, almost four decades after her first attempt to vote, Jacobs could for the first time make use of the voting booth. The notion of a woman’s beauty wasn’t the main focus of the first feminist wave. It appeared only more on the foreground during the second and particularly the third wave of feminism, as shown later. Besides suffrage, women did particularly strive for equally paid jobs and better and fairer access to education during the first wave of feminism (Stemrecht voor vrouwen in Nederland, n.d.). With Jacobs’ and others’ strengths, the role of women in society started to change. This transition also came with changes within female targeted media around that time, which can on one side be considered as progressive, but which on the other side still raised some fundamental considerations.

3.2 Mainstream media before and during the first wave of feminism

The first Dutch magazines targeted to solely women appeared during the eighties of the eighteenth century. In comparison with the United States and England, women magazines appeared relatively late in the Netherlands. This was partly due to the fact that the Dutch area of distribution was rather small and that many Dutch women also read publications from Germany, France or England (Jensen, 2001). From the 1830’s onwards, images conveying beauty could easily be reproduced and spread to a large audience. Because of newly emerging printing techniques it became easier to spread images showing how a woman was expected to look like. During the 1840’s, the first nude pictures were taken from prostitutes, and a decade later the advertisement industry used pictures of attractive women praising consumer products (Wolf, 1991). This is also the time Dutch female magazines gained more popularity. Yet, it were mainly the women belonging to the elite who could afford buying these magazines. During the 1870’s, the first feminist magazines appeared in the Netherlands. They gave a voice to emancipation but were, however, firstly also only available for women with money and the ones who joined an above average educational path. This only changed at the very end of the nineteenth century when printing paper became more affordable and when the middle class got more literate. Advertisements were added into the magazine’s content on a large scale (Hülsken, 2005). Besides the rather oppressed sphere of women which characterized the atmosphere out of which first wave feminism came forth, there was a notable change that took place within media between the

30 aftermath of the first wave and way before the start of second wave feminism. Betty Friedan (1963) discovered that the most popular magazines during the end of the first wave featured stories about what she called New Women. They were happy and attractive, but also self confident and adventurous, loved by men. They combined their own sense of personality and independence with attractiveness while being respected by others. A large emphasis was put on their inner being while fulfilling occupations like copywriters, actresses, teachers or saleswomen (Friedan, 1963). Women were depicted as heroines. Stories like the one from Nellie Bly (real name Elizabeth Jane Cochrane) in which she travels around the world in 72 days showed women were so much more capable of than taking care of their household only. Also stories of random other women were shared in magazines, in which often came across that there is a conflict in a woman’s desired occupation and the ability to combine this with having a husband. Friedan (1963) states a man was the right one for a women when he allowed her to follow her heart within her occupation. Adventurous escapades, however, only lasted till the women got children. After that, not much was left of the independent spirit, being confined to domesticity and nurturing characteristics again The reason for this short change in female depiction in media can be traced back to historical changes during that period of time. The First World War for example played a role in women’s participation within work force. While men were sent to the front, women had to take over jobs previously fulfilled by a majority of men. They became mailmen and got functions at the police. They also played a big role in mining, chemical industries and other rather masculine work fields like electronics. Those women had countries to rule now their husbands were needed in the army, which provided women with a fair notion of self worth and independence (Hijstek, n.d.). Friedan (1963) was heavily disappointed by the abrupt change in female representation as soon as the second wave of feminism came in sight. Whereas during the beginning of the twentieth century some heroic stories on independent women with careers could be found within media, women now seemed confined solely to their role as nurturing housewives. Male editors played a big role in what content to use within female magazines. In their eyes their readership was formed by housewives only, not being interested in matters like politics or travelling. Friedan spoke to an editor who stated that if an article would be suggested about an adventurous women, it would immediately be thought something would be wrong with her, being a neurotic or even aggressive person. Men thus largely decided what women were able to read in female targeted magazines, with the danger to overshadow matters that provided useful insights on life outside the household sphere. Around 1900, make-up usage flourished in all kind of classes. It was also around this time that cosmetics started to appear more often in media. This popularity also still can be found within contemporary media, regarding the popularity of beauty blogs nowadays. Large sums of money were and 31 are to be earned within the field of cosmetics. Around 1918 till approximately 1929, 90% of American women over the age of eighteen frequently used facial powder and 55% also used blush to give their cheeks a healthy glow. This period of time was characterized by a sense of wildness. Women considered actresses and their depiction in media as role models and enjoyed wearing cosmetics, flirting, drinking, dancing and wearing rather revealing clothes. Gender roles were challenged when suffrage came in sight and women even started to enroll in sports disciplines that were previously occupied by men only. There were three types of women being of huge importance for mediated beauty at that time. Firstly, most of the actual founders of cosmetics companies were female, examples being Estée Lauder and Elizabeth Arden. Secondly, it were mainly women being employed within the advertisement industry and thus also being responsible for creating the commercials on cosmetics. Thirdly, models used for advertising at that time were not far from being or looking like prostitutes, and this conveyed a rather sexy notion within the atmosphere of the picture being taken in (Peach, 1988). With mainly women being in charge of the realization of this mediated female beauty, it can be considered if this mediated desirability and lust that is being linked with objectification isn’t simply the empowerment through make-up as discussed during the previous two chapters. It’s a matter not simply to be answered, as an individual viewers’ perspective can just as well consider empowerment-meant images as highly objectifying. It’s a notable issue that feminists have been criticizing the depiction of women in media, but that it were on the other hand also women themselves being the founders of grand cosmetic brands, as well as being the minds behind the advertisements. With regard to a start of a more equal share within society characterized by the above mentioned wildness, it can thus be seen that during the first wave of feminism, women themselves saw cosmetics as a means of empowerment. A topic for further research could thus be the comparison of objectification and a woman’s self worth. As observed till so far, the dichotomy conveys the idea that women themselves are in charge of the degree in which they themselves feel objectified. Simply said, when they’re insecure, wearing make-up and revealing clothes, they’re objectified, but when they’re highly self confident, make-up and clothing give them a boost of empowerment. Even though first wave feminism aimed at changing fundamental societal issues like suffrage for women, it can already be noted here that generally female beauty became a topic of interest through the flourished media landscape characterized by wide spread advertisements and the high numbers of make-up usage. This continued during the following wave of feminism.

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3.3 Second wave feminism

The feminine mystique as described by Betty Friedan (1963) in her homonymous book is based upon a female identity problem, which barricades a woman’s intellectual growth. Following the feminine mystique, the highest and only aim of women is to properly fulfill their own femininity. The publication of this mindset was a starting point for second wave feminism in 1963. The actual feminine mystique is that a woman’s place within society didn’t reach further than being a housewife, combined with fulfilling the role as mother and wife. Talents weren’t supported to be further developed and used outside of the domestic sphere. Women were pushed to the acceptance of being different from men, and that their own inner-being could only be satisfied with being passive in a sexual relationship, the acceptance of male domination and the commitment to nurturing aspects for both a husband and children (Friedan, 1963). Traditionally male gender roles are confined to independence, aggression, competitiveness, rationality, problem solving and objectivity (Bakan, 1966), whereas women tend to disseminate softer characteristics like nurturance, emotionality, passivity, dependence and harmony (Bem, 1993). Through feminism women challenged their own traditional gender characteristics. When the Feminine Mystique was firstly published, the thoughts of Freud were highly popular. Friedan criticized Freud’s ideas on women being determined to be housewives and the emphasis placed on these female’s looks.

“Nature has determined woman’s destiny through beauty, charm, and sweetness. Law and custom have much to give women that has been withheld from them, but the position of women will surely be what it is: in youth and adored darling and in mature years a loved wife”, as written by Freud to John Stuart Mill (Mill, 1869:159 – ed. 2005) as published in Mill’s essay Subjection of Women, his support for equality between the sexes.

Friedan (1963) furthermore didn’t agree with Freud’s notion of penis envy. This concept states that women with ambitions suffered from their very first discovery of not having a penis, and that this exploration would have such an impact that it would always keep women away from their full development. In Freud’s eyes women can be very talented housewives, but not more than that. This all caused dissatisfaction from Friedan’s side, whilst promoting education and the fulfillment of jobs outside the household sphere by women in order to cast them away from this feminine mystique (Mill, 1869 – ed. 2005).

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The second wave of feminism in the Netherlands was characterized by an article named Het onbehagen bij de vrouw (The dissatisfaction of women) by J.E. Kool-Smit (1967), which came in response to Friedan’s (1963) Feminine Mystique. As elaborated by Kool-Smit, the identity of a woman is fully dependent on the background of her husband. Women were not seen as sole individuals, capable of living an individual life without help of a husband. Unmarried women were, therefore, seen as incomplete and to have failed. Their femininity was doubted upon. Married women didn’t exist as themselves, but rather as a being serving an upper force whether it might have been as mother, housewife, spouse or widow. The occupation of one’s husband was the determining factor in which position of the social class a woman resided. Childcare was seen as a more than full time job, through which female’s potentials were spoiled during the first few years of raising newborns, as seen by Kool-Smit (1967). A women might then face two temptations, the first being to equal her aspirations in life with her current children nurturing duty. The second could be the projection of her aspiration onto her offspring, instead of focusing on her very own wishes herself. It’s the taboo of motherhood, which leads Kool-Smit to her concluding question: “Wouldn’t it be good if mothers would have their kids more to offer than just devotion?” (Kool-Smit, 1967:281). Kool-Smit reflects on what Mary Wollstonecraft (1792) already brought forth during the eighteenth century. “The woman who strengthens her body and exercises her mind will, by managing her family and practicing various virtues, become the friend, and not the humble dependent of her husband” (Wollstonecraft, 1792:95). Wollstonecraft’s tone furthermore emphasized that not all men are accused of their overruling behavior and that feminism is, as sometimes thought, not just a battle against every single men. Second wave feminism thus mainly focused on women within the household sphere, something that can also be traced back within media.

3.4 Mainstream media during the second wave of feminism

The magazine McCall’s had been one of America’s most popular female magazines during the 60’s. In Friedan’s (1963) eyes, this magazine reflected an accurate representation of American women in that era. She describes its content as “young and frivolous, almost childlike; fluffy and feminine; passive; gaily content in a world of bedroom and kitchen, sex, babies, and home”. Sex was in fact elaborated on, but as “the only passion, the only pursuit, the only goal a woman is permitted is the pursuit of a man” (Friedan, 1963:36). McCall was filled with visual material concerning food, clothing, cosmetics and furniture. There was also a large emphasis on young females showing off their beautiful bodies, with the intention to serve as examples on how to find, keep and please a man, satisfying his eyes. The target group of McCall and likewise magazines were women hardly having a life outside one’s own domestic

34 sphere and thus being confined to achieve the best men-pleasing results in their own physical care and nurturing aspects towards their husband and children. Because of the female’s relatively small worlds, hardly any articles appeared on issues like politics or travelling (Friedan, 1963). The situation in the Netherlands wasn’t much different from the one in the United States. Fashion, music and home interior slowly became the main topics to be covered in women’s magazines like Libelle and Margriet. They were moreover filled with domestic targeted advertisements. Since the 1950s, stories also featured viewpoints on married women working outside her own domestic circle, triggering discussions on societal change and acceptance. Because of the emerged sexual revolution, magazines now also elaborated more openly on sexuality. This only occurred halfway the 1960s. The research that has been done on Dutch women’s magazines during this period of time, however, concluded that commercial magazines targeted for a female audience could still be marked as rather oppressing (Hülsken, 2005). They kept on representing and stimulating the traditional pattern as negatively addressed by from Friedan’s (1963) side. Advertisements in the 1950’s reflect about what Friedan (1963) was so concerned. Beautiful women were shown being intensely happy with all kind of household products, conveying a message being the perfect housewife with these products ranging from vacuum cleaners to laundry machines, refrigerators and even television devices. Women represented in the media were depicted as rather uneducated beings for which a clean and tidy house was the top priority, besides looking good. A well kept household could be obtained by all the new technological kitchen and cleaning aids being praised in advertisements. Besides the focus on the equipment, also women presented themselves as consumption objects (Friedan, 1963). The pleasure of others, mainly that of one’s husband and children, was thus on the foreground when second wave feminism emerged. Women were confined to their household world, something that changed with the arrival of third wave feminism, which in turn brought another feminine issue, namely the beauty ideal.

Image 1. Examples of 50s advertisements.

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3.5 Third wave feminism

Coming forth from the Feminine Mystique after the second wave of feminism is the Beauty Myth. This Beauty Myth by Naomi Wolf (1991) replaced Friedan’s (1963) Housewife myth, through which the focus was now solely on women’s physical appearance. Whereas the Feminine Mystique resulted from a historical context, the Beauty Myth is founded without historical or biological justification. This myth indoctrinates women by the need to be desired by men. Even though the Beauty Myth on first hand seems to be about the celebration of women and their sexual freedom, Wolf argues that on a deeper level the myth is actually “composed of emotional distance, politics, finance, and sexual repression” (Wolf, 1991:13). The emphasis is, therefore, more on behavioral patterns instead of female’s appearances only. When working outside one’s own household sphere got more accepted during and after the second wave of feminism, women stood for another challenge. Their looks were now linked to their share of success. This is thus exactly what has been questioned within this thesis several times already and about which no solid answer can be given: empowerment or subordination? Wolf is certainly not against the usage of cosmetics at all, admitting it can be fun too, as long as the reason behind make-up usage is of an unforced nature. “’Natural’ and ‘unnatural’ are not the terms in question. The actual struggle is between pain and pleasure, freedom and compulsion” (Wolf, 1991: 273). She points out that the only problem concerning make-up usage is that women feel the force to use cosmetics when otherwise sensing unnoted or incomplete without. It is thus a widespread misconception that Wolf and likeminded feminists are fanatically against beauty practices like applying lipstick. Wolf (1991) states to empower women both young and old with her work, but that one step forward has been tempted by various steps back. While girls are thought in what sense perceived beauty images are real or rather perfectionized, she spots copying behavior in clothing and acting from seven- and eight-year-olds when it comes to video clips of “popstars who dress like sex workers” (Wolf, 1991:4). And, even though women seem to suffer less from breast-size anxiety because of the unpopular trend in breast implant surgeries, pornography has become so intertwined within contemporary society that there is a just a thin line between reality and porno-like features of the female body. The myth thus still exists. Besides women being against the sexuality that is linked with beauty, there are also some that form a feminist sub group with opposite view points. Lipstick feminism is a term that can be linked to the empowering effects of sexual acts from women and thus conforms to the idea of empowerment through make-up. It comes forth from the third wave of feminism, which flourished during the 90s. The second wave of feminism created a stereotype of fanatic feminists being against men and against any usage of cosmetics that might attract superficial physical attention from men. Lipstick feminists on the other hand 36 argue that make-up usage could also enhance a woman’s strength by in fact wearing lipstick or even high heels. This empowerment can only be genuine when women are aware of their own choices in using make-up or wearing high heels and revealing tops. By this notion of beauty, lipstick feminists declare women physically, politically and socially empowered (Walter, 2010). Interestingly, various discussions on feminist platforms show that feminist don’t often label themselves as lipstick feminists. Even though women might find their ideas corresponding with the concept of lipstick feminism, the term is currently not widely used as means of identification. Stiletto feminism goes a step further than lipstick feminism. Both are based on the same principles of empowerment, yet, stiletto feminists argue that female jobs within the sex sphere furthermore provide a strengthening effect. When a women is devoted to her job and when no force plays a role in it, women can just as well be strippers or pole dancers (Levy, 2005). Nevertheless, there is just a thin line in the distinction between lipstick and stiletto feminism. There is no written statement on both of its contents and authors sometimes equalize both feminisms to another. Third wave feminism thus characterizes two widely differing viewpoints in which on one side the link between beauty and sexuality is criticized while on the other side sexism is seen as a feminine tool of empowerment. Within media another point of critique is added to female mediated beauty, namely hyperreality.

3.6 Mainstream media during the third wave of feminism

Sunny Bergman (2013) is critical about the unrealistic and unachievable contemporary beauty standards. She’s worried about the fact that images basically never represent reality anymore, but that reality rather conforms itself to all these unrealistic images (Bergman, 2013). She calls it hyperreality, after the phenomenon raised by the French philosopher Baudrillard. Visual material like photographs and movies will eventually take over reality, as predicted in his essay Simularca et simulation, which was published in 1981. He states that people will no longer be capable of keeping reality and artificially created images apart from each other (Baudrillard, 1981). This idea can be reflected on the current social media usage. Everybody is in charge of creating an ideal image of his or her own life, which could not strike too much with reality. Photoshop can allow people to adjust the profile pictures of their social medium so that all unwanted facial features can be adjusted, creating an unrealistic image of one’s self. People may be so busy in this digitalized world that reality can be perceived in a lesser degree, thinking already during a social gathering how to convey an activity into attractive online content. Baudrillard’s (1981) purpose is to show that adjusted images of reality will eventually overrule reality, so that all we perceive in visual objects is eventually based on something non-existent. Wolf (1991) mentions that only

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1 in 40.000 women actually fit to the requirements that a model’s size and shape represent, showing how unrealistic mediated images really are (Wolf, 1991). This change in female depiction is so different from that during the first and second wave of feminism because of the availability of technology nowadays, that can easily help creating something non-existing, for example through the usage of Photoshop. In an essay published on the Dutch newspaper’s website Trouw, Asha ten Broeke (2013) reflects Friedan’s (1963) Feminine Mystique onto the content of contemporary magazines. She claims that half a century after the second wave of feminism not much has changed regarding the content of Dutch women magazines. When analyzing the content of the four magazines with the biggest readership she discovers that both the advertisements as well as the leading stories are hardly any different from 1963. Even though women gained better access to education and the labor market, these magazines still convey the message that “a woman is still primarily a woman and only secondarily a human being” (ten Broeke, 2013:1). No stories were found on the economic crisis, the war in Syria, climate change or any topic alike. Nevertheless, whereas mainstream female media used to depict the mediated women rather as a key figures in household matters, the focus towards the nineties started to emphasize more heavily on female beauty and attractiveness. A decade after the millennium the Dutch media landscape suffers from readers losses in print media. Online media is an expanding platform in which also the traditional news outlets invest largely. The Netherlands counts approximately 17 million inhabitants from which 12.5 million people have access to the internet. The average Dutchmen spends 96 minutes per day online (Boogert, 2013). There are around 200 print magazines available, which in total have a circulation of 15.5 million copies. Magazines about TV and radio programs are sold the most, while female targeted magazines follow closely. Around one quarter of all magazines are magazines marketed to female readers. The four most sold titles, even though sales have decreased in the past few years (see table 1), are all owned by Sanoma. Margriet and Libelle are weekly magazines that elaborate on relationships, food and children. The main aim of these magazines is to serve as a kind of close friend, providing useful advice. The topics that are covered in both magazines focus particularly on everyday life matters, however, the emphasis is not on material possessions. Weekly magazines Flair and Viva on the other hand are targeted for a rather younger audience than Margriet and Libelle readers. They focus on emancipated women, jobs, sexuality and appearance (Bakker, 2013).

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Table 1. Magazine readership (weekly circulation) in the Netherlands in 1998 and 2011 (Bakker, 2013) 1998 2011 Libelle 675.000 425.000 Margriet 460.000 245.000 Flair 101.800 83.476 Viva 140.000 75.000

From the 80s onwards the Dutch magazine market was introduced to a large number of glamour magazines. These are not particularly dependent on readership revenues but mainly survive on the advertisements placed throughout the magazines. Examples within the Dutch media market are Cosmopolitan and Elle. In general glamour magazines are comprised for a mere 25% out of advertisements, however, within Cosmopolitan and Elle this number reaches up to 40%. Half of these advertisements derive from cosmetic companies. Other advertisements focus on for example fashion and jewelry. The high emphasis on appearance can thus be traced back in both the content of the glamour magazines as well as their accompanying advertisements. This stands in contrast with magazines like Margriet and Libelle, which are constructed out of 19% of advertisements mainly dealing about food, and to an even lesser degree to cosmetics. The rise of girl glossy’s show that young Dutch girls are confronted with appearance emphasizing articles from their early teens onwards. The main focus within these magazines are celebrities and appearance, but with a focus on the everyday life sphere. Cosmetics play a large role within this media field and besides an abundance of visual advertisements, readers are also treated on many sample products loosely accompanying the magazine (van Hove, 2004). Whereas the household sphere from the second wave of feminism was sent to the background, appearance emphasizing articles came into the foreground even more. All in all, with regard to three waves of feminism and the works of Friedan (1963) and Wolf (1991), there is still critique on female mediated beauty in which the housewife myth changed into the beauty myth. Even though female roles in daily life have become more equal to that of men, there are still enough issues to overcome in reaching true equality. One of the most notable is mediated female beauty, through which during the course of the years more emphasis has been put on beauty and appearance as sole factors to strive for. Hyperreality is the latest concern, in which women are sold the idea that unattainable beauty is attainable.

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4. DUTCH BEAUTY BLOG RESEARCH FRAMEWORK

The media ethnographic research strategy was applied as a research method, which allowed the integration of different sources of information into one. Ethnography interfaces sociology as well as anthropology. The main role of media ethnography research is that it emphasizes everyday life behavior within the media environment, in this case the Dutch beauty blogosphere. This qualitative research method was found to be most useful for this particular research as it provides a space for understanding how a specific medium can affect cultures. It gives an insight on how the consumers of a certain medium interpret the gained information and how they apply it within their own understanding of messages conveyed by mass media. The key within media ethnography is thus the effect of a certain medium on the lives of particular persons. The main aim is, through participation from the researcher’s side, to find out how the present socialization and for example gender representation within media influences a person’s identity and values (Forte, 2011). Within media ethnographical research an already narrowed down audience is researched, in this case beauty blog readers. It is investigated how popular culture affects these people in the means of everyday life, so applied to this research it thus comes down to which individual perceptions of the influence of beauty blogs are identified (Jensen, 2002). Dutch beauty blog ethnography was researched through several means of participation. The three most popular Dutch beauty blogs, www.beautygloss.nl, www.misslipgloss.nl and www.beautylab.nl were chosen to elaborate on, which resulted in an ethnographical coverage of beauty blog content being linked to the sexual objectification theory. The blogs claim to receive around 110.000, 40.000-50.000 and 55.000 visitors respectively (the latter amount outgrowing the second mentioned amount during the course of this thesis). Since they receive the highest amount of visitors they were chosen to represent the general Dutch beauty content. Following Lasswell (1948), content analysis brings forth answers to the questions within the following 6 W’s sentence, in brackets customized on the current topic: Who (beauty bloggers) says what (content of beauty blogs), to whom (readers of beauty blogs), why (conveying passion/hobby/work), to what extent (make-up and closely related issues with a touch of personality) and with what effect (sexual objectification: yes or no). This makes it easier to identify the intentions, focus or communication trends of the three biggest Dutch beauty blogs. It was chosen to narrow down the scope of observed posts. Both January as well as February 2014 were chosen to represent the general content of the beauty blogs. In the eight weeks that this period of time comprised, patterns could be recognized concerning the bloggers’ posting behavior. Furthermore, it was aimed to sketch the most current situation on beauty blog content and, therefore, the two months that preceded the start of this study were chosen for further inspection. Because of the large amount of data it was decided to make the beauty blog content more 40 abstract by labeling every single post, making it fit to a certain category. All 354 blog posts were labeled according to the content of the particular blog post, so that in the end a general content overview came into existence comprising several categories: reviews, diaries, looks through tutorials, fashion, food, readers interaction, beauty identification and miscellaneous. Posts about a certain product and its usage were labeled as ‘review’ and, therefore, belong to the review category, while posts about newly bought clothes were labeled as fashion, belonging to the similarly named fashion category. This was done to eventually simplify the detection of the existence of sexual objectification within the several segments of Dutch beauty blogs. It was decided not to use the bloggers’ own categorization system of posts since all three differ from each other causing that no clear comparisons could be made. Thus, by going through all posts, categories were formed of obviously returning topics. In this way the research criteria would be equalized for every blog so that in a later stage the comparability would be fair. One post could only belong to one particular category and not for example to both the review and fashion categories. This categorization focused only on the content of the posts and not on style. There was thus no separate category on all the posts that contained a movie, since the videos uploaded by beauty bloggers could contain various kind of topics. Going through every single blog post that was published in the two month time span, it was noted that many of them contain a high degree of personal stories. The degree of personal information within a story is hard to measure and could be a topic of interest for another more specialized research. In this particular research, the various categories are evaluated upon and enriched with many practical examples. Basically every category is comprised of a small scale content coverage itself. It was for example needed to rate posts on make-up reviews different from posts which elaborate on clothing. Each of the relevant categories is linked to a concept within the sexual objectification framework.

Beauty Blog Category Topic within Sexual Objectification Research Focus Theory Reviews The influence of mass media and its Marketing and advertising objectifying features practices Diaries The object without identity Object –personality – identity Looks Mediated femininity, perfection, focus on Genuineness facial features Fashion Objectification and focus on body parts ‘Sexy’ word usage and general attitude Food Harmful effects: eating disorders Healthiness, calorie intake Beauty identification Mediated beauty Objectification consciousness Readers interaction Woman to woman behavior Bonding and comment activity

Photoshop and beauty constructions Reality – hyperreality Personality and individualization Shift to inner focus 41

The content categorization established a clearer understanding of which topics are to be found within the Dutch beauty blogosphere and how the bloggers themselves emphasize on these categories. However, this would only cover the internal mechanism of beauty blogs, and not how all the work is eventually perceived by beauty blog readers. It was originally planned to collect more information about the preferences of these readers by gathering comments that would derive from a forum post in which the readers familiar with beauty blogs were asked which kind of articles they like reading most and why, what exactly beauty blogs make attractive for women to read in general and how they personally think beauty blogs contribute to the image of contemporary women in society. The first post was started at the forum from girl platform www.girlscene.nl, while a similar post was added to the forum content of www.viva.nl, the largest female targeted forum in the Netherlands. Both attempts to gather valuable information failed. The post at Girlscene received just one useful comment and afterwards the topic was locked because it was conflicting with the forum’s terms of usage. The post at the Viva forum only survived for a mere ten minutes after the complete user’s profile was blocked. Dutch forums thus discourage hosting discussions on issues that derive from the educational sphere as concluded from the afterwards derived terms of usage. It was eventually decided to look for an alternative on how to obtain readers’ information. A guest article on mediated female beauty was published on March 31st, 2014, on the Dutch beauty blog Beautygloss, receiving 650.000 unique visitors per month. The 168 comments that derived from the discussion that was started through the blog post were eventually analyzed and summarized through the media ethnography strategy, presenting an audience perspective on mediated female beauty with the particular focus on an eventual detection of sexual objectification within the Dutch beauty blogosphere. The readers comments were thus used as research sources on the question how Beautygloss contributes to the image of contemporary women within society. The visitors wanting to respond on the guest article were stimulated to be honest, critical and respectful. One might think that beauty blog readers would anyways come up for the content published on Beautygloss – why would they otherwise visit this blog – , however, it was shown that a wide variety of voices were casted. A further advantage was that beauty blog readers are very well aware of many detailed aspects of beauty blogs. Asking people not too acquainted with beauty blogs wouldn’t have been useful in this sense since they are not familiar with the mechanism and could, therefore, oversimplify the content provided on Dutch beauty blogs.

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4.1 Dutch beauty blog industry

There is a notable shift in print magazine readership towards the rising blogs with on first sight similar content. The widespread availability of internet and free online content has created a large sphere of well visited niche sites. Also the timeliness and interactivity through comments are characteristics present when describing blogs. One clear difference between both means of women targeted media is, however, that magazines derive their revenues from both advertisement fees as well as membership fees. Blogs elaborated in this research concern beauty blogs, which’ content is freely available for all without having to pay any membership fees. The three most popular beauty blogs in the Netherlands fall under the supervision of Mascha Feoktistova, Cynthia Schultz and Serena Verbon. All three of them blog full time and earn their living, through advertisements, with writing about cosmetics. Both Schultz and Feoktistova claim to be the first Dutch beauty blogger, starting they started blogging in 2006. Feoktistova carries out that she discovered a lack in make-up information for a Dutch-speaking audience and that she, therefore, decided to fill the gap by making online make-up tutorials, which was eventually followed by reviewing beauty products. Feoktistova’s blog Beautygloss is visited by 110.000 unique visitors on a daily base and Schultz claims to welcome in between 40.000 and 50.000 unique visitors on her blog Misslipgloss. Verbon is the owner of Beautylab and receives 54.000 unique visitors per day. These statistics derived from the introductory pages of all three beauty blogs themselves, yet, some critical articles on these visitor statistics circulate on the world wide web, in which is stated that many beauty bloggers mix up unique visitors with the amount of page views. That doesn’t take away their rank as most visited Dutch beauty blogs though. The Netherlands counts approximately 17 million inhabitants with around 12.5 million of them having access to the internet (Boogert, 2013). In 2011, the weekly circulation of the four most sold female magazines counted 425.000 for Libelle, 245.000 for Margriet, 83.476 for Flair and 75.000 for Viva (Bakker, 2013). Schultz’s preferred target audience on Misslipgloss are young women aged between eighteen and 30 years old. Her annual readers questionnaire from January 2014 shows that 49% of her 5251 respondents are eighteen till 24 years old. One percent of the respondents were male. The average age of Beautygloss visitors is between seventeen and 27 years old. Verbon targets her articles to readers in between eighteen and 35 years old, even though no questionnaire has been carried out to confirm if Beautylab readers conform that age. All of the above numbers derived from the introductory pages of every single beauty blog. The fact that all three mentioned beauty bloggers can live form their blogging activities is due to the placement of advertisements on these blogs, which in that sense shows a link on how magazines 43 collect their revenues. These advertisements can take various shapes, like for example a competition, a paid product review, an advertorial or a banner. Beauty bloggers aim to clearly mention when a post concerns sponsored content and furthermore make sure that they keep on being critical and honest on sponsored reviewed content. Advertorials are indeed clearly highlighted as commercial content, yet, it is not always clear whether beauty products that are elaborated upon are purchased by the beauty blogger themselves or if it was sent to them for free by a press agency connected to any make-up brand. The products might be used for reviews, however, without an advertorial agreement the blogger has no obligation to actually do so. When a product review is made about a product that is not considered to be too good, the blogger can thus cast her negative opinion freely. By involving beauty bloggers with product presentations and by sending them new collections of make-up products, the beauty brands aim to receive blog content and thus widespread attention for their newly marketed wares, hoping their wares are received positively.

4.2 Mascha Feoktistova – Beautygloss

Mascha Feoktistova is the owner of beautygloss.nl and has been blogging since 2006. She was born in Moscow, Russia in 1986. She speaks Dutch, Russian and English fluently. She fulfilled her Bachelor in Social Work on the level of Senior Secondary Vocational Education and Training and eventually continued as socio-pedagogical assistant and community worker. Before her blog became her primary source of income she worked in the field of child care and carried out group therapy sessions within psychiatry. On the introductory page of her blog, Feoktistova states that she’s not a make-up artist, nor a hair stylist or journalist, but a beauty blogger. She chose to blog about make-up since it’s her passion. Feoktistova doesn’t consider her blog to be a lifestyle blog, since she only wishes to elaborate on beauty. Still, she does occasionally upload shopvlogs (video’s in which newly purchased goods are shown to the audience) on clothing purchases. When launching Beautygloss, she had the many women in mind who, just like her, would be eager to read about several beauty products and beauty tips on a daily base in Dutch.

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4.3 Cynthia Schultz –Misslipgloss

Cynthia Schultz is the owner of misslipgloss.nl. She was born in 1990 and started her beauty blog in 2006 at the age of sixteen, being fascinated by lip gloss as her blog name reveals. She finished her University Preparatory Education and afterwards started her Bachelor degree in Journalism at a University of Applied Sciences. She passed her Propaedeutics, but then decided to leave school in order to be able to fully concentrate on her beauty blog. In 2010 she eventually became a certified make-up artist and besides maintaining her blog, she occasionally writes articles for CosmoGIRL! and Metro’s Mode section. Since the end of 2012 Schultz became the beauty specialist of popular morning TV program Koffietijd, in which she often can be seen during live broadcasts. In September 2013, her own short TV program TLC Make-Up was launched at the Dutch branch of TLC. Schultz calls Misslipgloss a beauty blog, stating she updates her blog daily with beauty and lifestyle matters. The content of her posts come forth out of testing products, recording video’s, giving tips and showing the latest trends. In the last week of the year 2011 Schultz opened her very own Misslipgloss Webshop. She sells over 600 products ranging from nail polish, eye shadow and foundation till shampoo and body butter. The webshop came into existence through a cooperation with Schultz and De Nieuwe Zaak,, a Dutch e-commerce expert company.

4.4 Serena Verbon – Beautylab

Serena Verbon is the owner of Beautylab. Her family has Indonesian roots, but she was born in 1984 in Houten, the Netherlands. In 2006 she finished her Bachelor in Molecular Biology at the University of Applied Sciences in Utrecht. She worked in a hospital pharmacy as a pharmaceutical analyst for five years. In 2011 she decided to quit her full time job in order to fully focus on her beauty blog. The name of Verbon’s blog derives from her background as a lab assistant and her job history can sometimes be traced back on the content of her blog. Verbon thus regularly elaborates on cosmetics in a more analytical way, digging deep into the ingredients used for these particular products. Verbon sees her blog as a hobby with the benefit she can live from it, stating on her introductory page that her days are 45 filled with taking pictures of beauty products, opening press packages, selecting and testing products about which an article will appear online, recording and editing movies, internet research, writing blog posts, creating contests and test panels, answering e-mails, maintaining social media and keeping up with PR related events. The upcoming chapter will show what kind of topics the three most popular Dutch beauty bloggers elaborate on and how female beauty is mediated. As described, this will be done through the media ethnographic research strategy.

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5. MEDIATION OF FEMALE BEAUTY IN DUTCH BEAUTY BLOGS

This chapter elaborates on the content of the three biggest Dutch beauty blogs. It is observed what kind of blog posts appear frequently and how beauty is mediated through these articles. Many examples are mentioned in order to create a general idea on beauty blog content, particularly for the ones not being familiar with the various subjects brought forth by beauty bloggers. The importance of this chapter is the dismantling of blog content, looking beyond the main messages that are conveyed, but with an emphasis on everyday life, close to beauty blog readers. A complete overview of all the observed blog posts from January and February 2014 can be found within the first annex. Resemblances in content were observed an eventually labeled. The posts with the same label deal with the same sort of topic. Further on in this research each labeled division is called category. 62 posts appeared during January 2014 on www.beautygloss.nl, with 56 posts for February, making the total amount 118 blog entries for the observed period of time. 60 posts appeared online during January 2014 on www.misslipgloss.nl, with 52 posts for February, coming down to 112 posts in total. 63 posts appeared during January 2014 on www.beautylab.nl, making it the largest amount in comparison with the other two blogs. Also during February Beautylab counted the most entries, with 61 posts. The total amount thus comes down to 124 posts. It should be noted that even though Beautylab’s owner Verbon seems to have the highest activity rate, eight posts were written entirely by her friend Nena and yet another eight column-like posts appeared under the name of Verbon’s friend Angel, making in total 16 articles that were not written by the main beauty blogger herself. Verbon is, however, not the only beauty blogger that cooperates with others. Beautygloss’ owner Feoktistova posts weekly recipes in video form presented by her friend Frances. She furthermore has an agreement with well known Dutch hair stylist Tom Sebastian who once a month answers reader’s questions in video form.

Table 2. Amount of blog posts Beautygloss, Misslipgloss and Beautylab during January and February 2014 Posts January ‘14 Posts February ‘14 Total Beautygloss 62 56 118 Misslipgloss 60 52 112 Beautylab 63 61 124 Total 185 169 354

It was chosen not to label movies as a particular category, since they vary a lot in content. All movies are part of blog posts and thus they are also concluded in the numbers listed above. Beautygloss provided its readers with the most audiovisual content during January and February 2014. In total 46

47 videos were posted from which 35 originated from Feoktistova herself. Eleven videos were contributions to Beautygloss made by others. Schultz posted only seventeen videos on Misslipgloss within the two month time span. In sixteen of them she can be seen herself, however, the remaining one is a video tackling the usage of Photoshop she just eagerly wanted to share with her readers, but which is not made by herself. Verbon provided a total of fifteen movies. The term blog in these cases thus doesn’t mean that solely written content is provided, but that there is also a clear emphasis on audiovisual material. With January and February 2014 counting in total 59 days, the figures show that on average two new posts were uploaded to each of the three beauty blogs on a daily base. One of the main distinctions between magazines and blogs is that blogs provide a space for immediate interaction. The numbers in comment activity show that the posts on Beautygloss reached by far the biggest amount of replies and that overall, all three beauty blogs counted in, every blog post during the two month time span received an average of 157 comments.

Table 3. Amount of readers comments Beautygloss, Misslipgloss and Beautylab during January and February 2014 Comments January Comments February ‘14 Total Average per post ‘14 Beautygloss 16.018 13.579 29.597 251 Misslipgloss 7737 5927 13.664 122 Beautylab 6110 6158 12.268 99 Total 29.865 25.664 55529 Average per post 161 152 157

Within the upcoming sub chapters the main categories within beauty blogs can be further discovered.

5.1 Reviews about beauty products and tools

In product reviews, beauty bloggers elaborate on their personal opinion concerning certain beauty products. This can be amongst others about facial cleansers, crèmes, perfumes, make-up products, brushes and hair styling tools. Both budget and high end products are reviewed. On all three monitored beauty blogs, reviews on beauty products and tools form the majority of content. With 45% (50 posts) of its entire content, Misslipgloss leads in review content, followed by Beautylab with 36% (43 posts) and Beautygloss with 29% (34 posts) only. Product reviews can be brought forth by written articles or in videos, like for example the clip Review: Urban Decay Naked 3 palette (13/02) by Feoktistova. This blog 48 post contains of a video in which she shows her viewers the colors from this popular eye shadow palette and furthermore gives tips on how to combine these colors best. Nevertheless, most reviews don’t contain a video but just a fair amount of text accompanied by product photo’s and swatches. It is notable that the beauty bloggers almost only use product pictures that they’ve made themselves and that thus no official press pictures can be found on beauty blogs. Blogs in this sense don’t mirror for example female magazines, known for being filled with professionally made pictures that are being Photoshopped too. Besides writing their articles, beauty bloggers thus spend a fair amount of time in creating their own visual material that deviates from other media outlets, keeping it personal and less professional, without the usage of Photoshop. It is often unclear if the products being reviewed are actually purchased by the bloggers themselves or if the wares were sent to them for free by press agencies of certain beauty brands. This could bring forth a discussion about the objectivity of the articles. In general, reviews are, however, highly subjective since a personal opinion is carried out about specific beauty products. This can be seen as a driving force behind the high amount of visitors visiting beauty blogs on a daily base. Since advertisements praise products anyways, cosmetics users may turn to beauty blogs in order to find out which of the products of a similar segment are perceived better in order to make the best suiting purchasing choice, contradictory making the opinions rather objective. A beauty blogger’s opinion, plus the amount of comments from readers opposing or supporting the blogger’s preference, can thus serve as an important share within purchase decision making of the blog reader. Doubtful might be the complete honesty on products sent to the beauty bloggers for free. Even though this is hard or almost impossible to properly measure, there is a possibility that the blogger-brand relationship influences the tone of certain reviews. If recently a campaign by brand X in shape of advertising banners was launched, being lucrative for the beauty blogger, it could be that in a later stage products being reviewed about this very same brand X are less critically viewed upon because of a possible, beneficial, future cooperation between the blogger and brand X. In this way beauty blog visitors can indirectly be confronted with commercial persuasive information, which was shown to be able to affect women negatively (Apaolaza-Ibañez et al, 2011). It was found that women should firstly feel unhappy about their looks while perceiving cosmetic advertisements, then would purchase certain products and eventually start to feel emotionally better about this whole idea of taking care of themselves. This marketing trick is closely tied with sexual objectification, since for the part of feeling unhappy and the need of products to take away this feeling, prurient images of over perfectionalized women are used. As long as beauty bloggers don’t start to bring across the similar images, not much is on first hand harmful for blog readers though. Nevertheless, for the bloggers’ own trustworthiness it is essential to be honest towards their readers on the origin of the 49 reviewed products in order to eliminate any unclear advertising influences that might sneak from the marketing world into the content of beauty blogs, especially when it comes to reviewed products. It is thus not a matter that beauty blogs shouldn’t elaborate on products that are sent to them for free, on the contrary. However, for beauty blog readers it might be clarifying to know whether or not a product is bought or obtained for free, just with the idea to be a little more critical in the last case. The blog posts during January and February 2014 partly show this openness towards visitors already. On Misslipgloss, below every blog post that elaborates on beauty products which were received for free, a sentence in a small typeface can be found stating this origin. This text links to Misslipgloss’ disclaimer in which is written that a positive review on products sent by cosmetics companies can never be guaranteed and that the reviews are as honest as when reviewing a product which has been bought by Schultz herself. It is notable that both Feoktistova and Verbon do not offer their readers this information in a clear form. Readers are often thus not informed about the origin of beauty products, whether bought by the bloggers themselves or obtained by the bloggers entirely for free. A reason behind the extra care conveyed through Misslipgloss derived from a scandal that took place in 2012, in which Schultz in one of her reactions on a readers question claimed to be not too positive about a skin care line by cosmetics manufacturer Clinique. Nevertheless, just a short while later a sponsored article about this very same product line was posted on Schultz’ blog Misslipgloss. In this article she suddenly claimed to be overly enthusiastic about its usage. Even though the beauty bloggers bring their pro’s and con’s on products in a very personal and intimate way, the big make-up multinationals do have a possibility to access the beauty blogosphere in a discrete and almost invisible way. The commercial messages are instead brought through a very accessible means of communication, namely by a young girl that shares personal stories and generates a sense of recognition and identification. Advertisements through blogs are then more easily accessible then when being conveyed through models with which one cannot identify that easily, especially because Photoshop erased so much of their otherwise recognizable personal bodily and facial features. Especially Beautygloss and Beautylab lack openness towards their visitors, which deserves a critical note. Even though it’s hard to measure, there is a possibility that freely obtained products generate reviews that mirror the standards conveyed by large commercial companies and their advertisements that might mediate female beauty in an idealized and objectifying way. A friction arises between make-up for fun and/or empowerment with make-up serving as lust generating tool. The two most notable discoveries within the review category are that firstly, beauty bloggers create their own visual material without Photoshop, which deviates from perfectionized images as often used in other media outlets. Secondly, beauty bloggers don’t always tell their readers if their reviewed products were received for free or were bought by themselves, criticized more heavily by beauty blog 50 readers in chapter six. To overcome any suspicion on eventual lucrative blogger-beauty brand benefits, it would be fair if bloggers would be more open about the origins of their reviewed products, or else wise mediated female beauty standards that are objectifying and perfectionized can invisibly penetrate the beauty blogosphere, overruling the fun and educational element of make-up usage with the idea of prurient perfection.

5.2 Diaries in photos or videos form

The three biggest beauty blogs in the Netherlands all have in common that a weekly photo diary is posted. It is called ‘Sneak Peak’ on Cynthia Schultz’s Mislipgloss, Mascha’s Diary on Mascha Feoktistova’s Beautygloss and Instalab on Serena Verbon’s Beautylab. Schultz and Feoktistova both publish their entries on Monday while Verbon shows her readers her diary on Sunday’s. The posts are filled with pictures and short descriptions on various happenings from one entire week. It isn’t uncommon that posts contain over 30 pictures. It is notable that many of the pictures don’t particularly have to do anything directly with make-up. They mainly give a very intimate insight of the beauty bloggers’ lives. Examples of pictures that come across concern various kind of meals, snacks, drinks, business trips, a look behind the scenes by showing laptops, piles of cosmetics, to-do lists, holiday destinations and outfits of that day. All of the three beauty bloggers mentioned here work from home and thus the blog readers are often able to see the bloggers’ interiors coming by on pictures. Notable is that Schultz’s dog Chubby, Feoktistova’s cats Manis and Siem and Verbon’s cats Coco and Clarence are to be found on many pictures which comprise the weekly photo diaries. Sporadically also the bloggers’ boyfriends can be found on a pictures, as well as family members. Interestingly there is quite a broad variation in the percentages that comprise these diaries within the overall content of the three beauty blogs. In the period of time observed, Beautylab offered the least diary related content, being only seven percent (nine posts) of the entire in total 124 posts. Beautygloss contained for fourteen percent (sixteen posts) out of diaries from the total amount of 118 blog posts and Mislipgloss certainly contributed to the largest share of diary- like content with twenty one percent (twenty three posts) of the entire content from January and February 2014 existing out of primarily personal photo diaries. Regarding the formerly mentioned review category it can thus be seen that Mislipgloss consist for 66%, so almost two thirds, out of just two categories, being these diaries and product reviews. The diary figures show that besides the blogs being targeted as beauty blogs, there is a grand element of personality involved as well. Work and private life are thus certainly not strictly separated. Even though much diary content can be seen as images behind the scene during a beauty blogger’s working day, there are a lot of visual materials produced outside work related fields,

51 within the private sphere, too. This partly finds a voice in a research that investigated why women use blogs as a means of self expression. Self-disclosure, meaning that a person reveals him or herself to others, is in fact found to be part of the reasons why especially women blog. Also affiliation, in this case the bond with readers, plays a subtle role in the motivation to blog (Chen, 2012). This can for example be seen in the top-5 of most commented blog posts by Schultz on her blog Misslipgloss, which concern photo blogs named plogs, being an addition to the weekly returning diary posts. Three out of these five posts (Plog: 6 January 2014, Plog 30 January 2014 and Plog 7 January 2014) consisted of photo blog diaries and yet another post, Plogging: you may choose, elaborated on the continuation of the photo blog diary in which the appreciation for these rather personal posts was evaluated, resulting in a majority of supportive feedback. Through all these photo diaries being so well commented, beauty blog readers show their appreciation for the personal touch to be found on Misslipgloss. Coming forth from pictures within diary blog posts are the notions of ambition, passion and drive for one’s career, self love in wanting to take care about one’s body and appearance and love of one’s fellow man/pet/friend/family member. Beauty bloggers thus convey a lot more than plain information about lipsticks and mascara’s. Values on planning and organizing also play an important role, only to be discovered on a long time based observation with the focus on everyday life matters, as being shown particularly in the often returning diaries.

Image 2. Examples of everyday life pictures from various diaries of all three bloggers.

Comparable to the weekly picture diaries are the so called vlogs, video blogs, made by Feoktistova and Verbon during January and February 2014. In these video entries the reader, or in this case the viewer, is taken along with the beauty blogger on for example a press event or holiday destination. This was the case when Verbon made a video about an event organized by clothing retail company Primark in Vlog: Ibis hotel, Primark Zaandam, High tea & photoshoot. She was offered free accommodation together with her two blogging sisters, a gift card from Primark and a free high tea with other invited 52 bloggers. Her vlog elaborated on the Ibis hotel room she resided in, her sisters, the shopping session in Primark and the high tea and photoshoot. It became a video with a personal touch in which pleasure played an essential role. The characters of Verbon and her sisters were highlighted, speaking against the depiction of interchangeable models, as brought forth by the objectification test by Heldman (2013). In February, Feoktistova uploaded several video reports from her trip to Dubai, which was offered/sponsored by cream manufacturer Lancaster. In five different movies posted within a time span of seven days she takes the viewers with her on sightseeing trips through Dubai. The style of these and in general most vlogs by other bloggers are characterized by closeness with the viewer. Holding their camera’s themselves, filming their face while talking, it often looks like a good friend is taking you by the hand, showing you around a room or a city and introducing you to beauty products. During the trip in Dubai that was offered by Lancaster, Feoktistova extensively elaborated on this companies’ products, which are marketed as being very helpful for people with a sensitive skin and when being exposed to heavy sunlight. Since Feoktistova is rather pale, she shares her positive remarks about the products via her vlog. She praises the fact that even though she was exposed to a lot of sunlight, she didn’t get burned because of the usage of Lancaster products. She furthermore shows that she did manage to get tanned because of Lancaster’s self tanner, about which she’s very satisfied. On the one hand these commercial messages conveyed the important message of protecting one’s skin during heavy sun exposure, yet, on the other hand a norm is created on being tanned is something to strive for. Feoktistova’s goal was not to get a sun burn, but to get tanned. The influence, concerning safety and beauty expectations, can thus be traced back within the video’s, even though they’re so personal and far from looking like advertisements with Photoshopped models. When comparing the way how messages were conveyed through magazines in the past and now, through picture or video form, it can be noted that the degree of personality rose. Also here, just like with the review category, there is an open space for commercial messages to penetrate into the Dutch beauty blogging sphere. This can be seen by the above mentioned examples about clothing chain Primark and sunscreen manufacturer Lancaster. Both means offered the bloggers a valuable experience, but it can be discussed whether or not beauty bloggers dare to be fully critical when their blog and video posts are rewarded with something expensive as a fully paid for luxurious trip. Nevertheless, the amount of independence within these posts, connected with the liberty to travel and explore new cultures and places, stands in contrast with earlier female media in which women were confined to their household sphere. The above examples show that work and the private sphere often come together in the shape of visual diary content. The most notable conclusion to be drawn from this category to be found on the three investigated beauty blogs, is that the bloggers themselves obviously decided to offer their readers more 53 than just information about make-up and looks. Beauty bloggers thus place a high emphasis on their own personality and their life beyond make-up. Through their photo and even video diaries, they carry out their own identity, showing there is more in life than about which they continuously blog. It can thus be said that the diaries form a tool against their own self objectification, since they truly want to convey that their lives are not all about make-up and fashion, but that they are in fact hard working business women with their beauty blogs being their own lucrative companies. Nevertheless, also here the influence of commercials can be seen, which can both be educational and protective as well as norm creating.

5.3 Looks created as tutorials

In essence there is just a small distinction between the reviews and looks section. Whereas reviews mainly focus on single products or newly launched product lines, looks are created with a certain sphere in mind. Example’s are Feoktistova’s Trend look spring 2014: rosé gold make-up (22/02) and Verbon’s ‘Spring is coming’ eye look (03/02). Looks are furthermore slightly more informative than reviews considering how to apply make-up. Yet, reviews on the other hand contain more product information and pro’s and con’s of those products’ usage. Readers thus learn how to properly apply make-up through tutorials, being a creative helping hand for girls just starting to wear make-up. It is notable that Misslipgloss offers hardly any looks created as tutorials. Only one percent (and thus one post only) elaborates on this type of content. Beautygloss and Beautylab on the other hand provide more posts within this category. Ten percent (thirteen posts) of Beautygloss and nine percent (twelve posts) of Beautylab consist of looks. These posts consist for a large part of visual material in which the beauty blogger plays a central role. Step by step the road towards the look is taken, sometimes even starting with a plain, make- up less face. Looks can vary a lot, from more natural looks in which a youthful skin with impurities is made to look more flawless, but without the usage of notable colorful make-up, to more complicated looks that are targeted for the ones going out for the evening. Out of the thirteen looks posted on Beautygloss, six elaborate on an already finished look, showing no pictures of the preparation phase towards the eventual look. In four posts Feoktistova starts her make-up tutorials with a basic layer of make-up on her face. Impurities are thus already concealed with foundation but products that drastically change appearance like mascara and eye shadow are only applied during the course of the article or video. Three out of the total twelve looks start off with pictures that show Feoktistova’s face without any single hint of make-up at all. The titles of these posts are (translated from Dutch into English) No make-up, a little make-up and much make-up (23/01), Uncut routine: make-up and hair: in 20 minutes (25/01) and Valentine’s day make-up tutorial 2014 (08/02). This very first article consists of text and three different

54 pictures. The first picture shows Feoktistova’s make-up less face. Interestingly, she’s only smiling on the two pictures on which she wears a little and much (but still natural) make-up. The picture depicting her without any make-up at all shows a rather serious facial expression. The second post, which shows Feoktistova’s face without make-up, consist of a 18.56 minutes long video elaborating on a daily make-up routine. The video starts off with Feoktistova’s upper torso within the frame of the video image. She first takes care of her hairdo through which only after 08.13 minutes she starts applying make-up. Thus almost half of the time of the entire movie she is visible without any single hint of make-up applied onto her face. Feoktistova’s Valentine’s tutorial is a movie as well, in which only the very first few seconds of the in total 6.54 minutes long movie she can be seen without make-up. Schultz posted only one look created as tutorial during January and February 2014, however, this written post accompanied by pictures named My daily make-up step by step (07/02) starts off with two pictures that fully show Schultz’s make-upless face. Her skin is a bit shiny and minor impurities can be seen in these close-ups. It is notable that just as with Feoktistova’s No make-up, a little make-up and much make-up (23/01) post, Schultz seems to look slightly more serious on the pictures that depict her without make-up than on the eventual pictures on which she did apply her full daily make-up look. This could be linked with the notion of empowerment and self confidence that, as claimed by for example lipstick feminists, make-up usage can strengthen (Levy, 2005). Unconsciously the bloggers could thus convey a feeling of comfort when wearing make-up, lacking or less intense when not wearing it. Viewed very critically but in need of scientific support, it could thus be the case that ‘hiding’ one’s face behind a layer of make-up changes one’s facial expression in a certain extent that more confidence is carried out through inner strengthening emotions, which is less likely to come across forcefully without using any hint of make-up. Out of the twelve looks posted on Beautylab, one starts off from the no make-up phase. The post Kim Kardashian Full Look (23/02) consist of both a movie and some pictures. During the first 40 seconds of the in total 7.21 minutes long video Verbon can be seen without wearing make-up. The pictures also show a before and after shot. Her rather smiley facial expression is to be found on both pictures, which in this case doesn’t bring forth a distinction in seriousness between make-up less and fully decorated faces. Verbon is the only one out of the three beauty bloggers mentioned here that starts off seven looks with pictures of only one specific eye without make-up. In these posts that mainly consist out of pictures showing step by step how to create a certain look, only in a later stage the full face including the full look is shown on pictures. In a total of two looks she solely shows the complete look and in yet another two posts concerning looks she starts off her tutorial by showing pictures of herself with a basic layer of

55 foundation only. It can be noted that most of the tutorials elaborate on rather neutral looks that are suitable to wear to school or work.

Image 3. Examples of Mascha Feoktistova, Cynthia Schultz and Serena Verbon without wearing any make-up.

This make-upless feature is essential in distinguishing widespread mediated female images with the content that can be found on blogs. Whether media are criticized for conveying images of women that do not correspond with reality, beauty bloggers show their vulnerability by also uploading pictures of themselves without make-up. None of the pictures that beauty bloggers use are critically adjusted by Photoshop, apart from some brightness and contrast issues. Every impurity or wrinkle can clearly be seen. Beauty blog readers coming across these images can thus more easily identify themselves with the beauty bloggers through the realization that even these popular, influencing bloggers resemble the readers’ looks when just coming out of bed, without wearing any make-up. These images are incredibly hard to be found within widespread media, in which perfection takes the upper hand of female representation. Beauty bloggers are thus not afraid to show their real, naked faces. Mediated beauty by mainstream media and beauty conveyed through beauty blogs thus differ in two essential fields, the first being the renounced usage of Photoshop by beauty bloggers, unthinkable within for example print media. Secondly, the guts of beauty bloggers to show their plain faces, also a no-go for female media. None of the plain face pictures provide any accompanying texts that could somehow bring forth the idea that the beauty blogger feels insecure about being depicted in this particular way. Furthermore, no complaining was detected about any impurities or alike. Beauty blogs can, therefore, not be seen as exact copies of traditional female media like magazines, but than in a digitalized form. The main aim of these looks posts are to educate readers on how to use make-up and to inspire them with creativity. The pictures are meant to be perceived by beauty blogs readers and are not targeted for a male audience. Girls learn how to take care of themselves and how to safely and properly use make-up, which results in the creation of well balanced make-up looks meant for everyday life usage. These posts never imply make-up usage to be done for others, or men in

56 particular, but solely focus on how to highlight a girl’s facial features in a neutral way. This degree of taking care of one’s self generates self-confidence, yet, by also perceiving the beauty bloggers without make-up, it is shown that make-up isn’t a necessary tool in order to feel confident, but that it can strengthen it. Whereas it was found that women often compete with each other on looking best, beauty blogs serve as a platform where this female to female competition cannot be traced back (Heldman, 2013). It is now shown whether the image and posing style could reveal more on eventual objectifying matters within the Dutch beauty blogosphere. The objectification test provided by Heldman (2013) is, however, not that useful in this case, since it’s primarily targeted at advertisements. Beauty bloggers were hardly to be seen on fashion related pictures together with others, even though media in general often show women as being part of a group (Peach, 1988). Feoktistova did record a shoplog together with her boyfriend, yet, no links with any objectifying representing features could be concluded out of that, except for the equal way on how they treated each other. Verbon appeared on two pictures with a male, but both cases concern a gay make-up artist looking straight into the camera, not being visually busy with Verbon’s presence at all. Nevertheless, besides Heldman’s (2013) test, other features could characterize rather female unfriendly representations within media. As elaborated upon within the theoretical framework, women are often depicted with their eyes pointed elsewhere, into the distance (Goffman, 1979). Also, there might be a clear emphasis on specific facial features like a woman’s eyes or lips, as shown especially attractive with a neoteny touch, through which child like facial resemblances proved to be a factor of attractiveness (Jones et al., 1995). All pictures shown within the looks posts that depict the beauty bloggers themselves were labeled fitting to the categories below. One picture can fit to several categories (for example: full face – looking into the camera – smiling or facial feature – (eye) closed). The numbers shown behind the blog names are the amount of pictures analyzed.

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Figure 1. Depicted facial characteristics of accompanying pictures on blog posts about looks created as tutorials on Beautygloss, Misslipgloss and Beautylab during January and February 2014

100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Facial Facial Looking in Looking Neutral/seri Full face feature - feature - Eyes closed Smiling camera away ous look eye lips Beautygloss (47) 28 16 3 31 9 4 7 21 Misslipgloss (12) 11 1 0 9 3 0 11 0 Beautylab (118) 22 91 0 76 40 3 13 8

Beautylab consisted for a high degree of pictures focusing on one eye only. These pictures ranged from a plain state without any make-up at all to a fully decorated eye with eye shadow, eye liner, mascara and sometimes even fake eye lashes. The high amount of ‘looking away’ pictures, especially to be found on Beautylab, show that there is a clear distinction in what Goffman (1979) described as a dreamy look elsewhere, into the distance, and what the expression clearly seemed to convey on a beauty blog. Where initially it can be thought that this look into the distance provides a male-gaze creating atmosphere in which the women is shown as a desirable object, it soon becomes clear that beauty bloggers use this particular facial position just for practical reasons. Western eye lids have the tendency to hang down a little, so part of the eye lid sort of disappears within a fold when looking straight forward. Goffman’s (1979) notion thus cannot be applied into the same degree here, since it’s obvious that beauty bloggers try to show their readers the make-up techniques used for their particular looks. These pictures are educationally meant for women and not for men with the idea of generating lust or desire. The various looks that beauty bloggers create are highly creative, thus make-up can be just as well seen as a form of art that is joyful to play with, comparable with making for example drawings.

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Image 4. Pictures from a step by step eye make-up tutorial by Serena Verbon on Beautylab

Image 5. Examples of advertisements depicting women with a dreamy look into the distance.

Image 6. Examples of Feoktistova looking into the distance.

As can be concluded out of the posts that are about the creation of certain looks, it can be seen that beauty blogs form an educative platform on how to properly apply make-up, linked with creativity. Here, also the biggest distinction between blogs and other media outlets becomes clear, as beauty bloggers are regularly depicted without any single hint of make- up at all. This creates a sense of reality on beauty with which readers can identify. Another notable difference is that beauty bloggers don’t make use of Photoshop, through which blog readers also see images of the bloggers’ impurities, again, drifting away from the female mediated beauty ideal in magazines or advertisements.. Pictures show that the theories of Goffman (1979) and Heldman (2013) on posing style can actually not be applied to Dutch beauty bloggers, as their aim is to solely show their readers their accomplished looks, which are most often natural and suitable for wearing to school or work. Girls learn how to take care of themselves and how to safely and properly use make-up without the pressure of doing this for someone else.

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5.4 Fashion

A fair amount of posts elaborated on fashion. During January and February 2014, all beauty bloggers had uploaded at least one so called shop log, a video in which newly purchased clothes are shown. Feoktistova shows in a video all the clothes she ordered and received from clothing chain Boohoo. She even recorded a video on newly obtained cardigans together with her boyfriend, in which also he shows his purchases. Schultz shows her newly ordered clothes from H&M and Verbon offers her viewers two grand shop logs of her purchases at Primark. Sporadically some accessory posts come by concerning amongst others a new hand bag or a pair of newly bought earrings. Misslipgloss elaborates the least on this topic with only four percent (seven posts) within this category. On Beautygloss this comes down to six percent (with also seven posts), while Beautylab offers the highest degree in clothing and accessories content being nine percent (thirteen posts). While other categories on beauty blogs mainly focus on facial beauty, this particular topic also creates a space for bodily observations of the beauty bloggers when they show their outfits. If beauty blogs would stimulate their visitors to sexually objectify themselves, this could be done through an emphasis on bodily features and by the usage of words that would describe clothing as in something creating sexual attractiveness. Visual images could thus strengthen the idea of sexual objectification, but closer research shows that it doesn’t particularly have to be that way. It was notable that the word ‘sexy’ was linked in total five times to clothing and appearance. However, this all happened on Verbon’s Beautylab and thus Feoktistova and Schultz didn’t even mention it one single time during their clothing posts within the two month time span. It only occurred once that Verbon elaborated on a piece of clothing making her feel a little bit more sexy and this was when she wrote about an underpants with a push up effect, optically lifting her ass cheeks. She furthermore added it made her feel more self confident and that this piece of clothing would be fun to wear to a party now and then, but not every day. The general tone of the article was not too serious and rather elaborated on the products as being a funny gadget. The other four times the word ‘sexy’ was linked to clothing was in a video in which Verbon showed pictures on fashion trends to two boys in their late teen years. She asked them their opinion about these trends. The overall atmosphere of the video is a bit chaotic and it’s clearly visible that Verbon sometimes faced difficulties to finish her sentences, just because the boys didn’t let her to. Furthermore, whereas Verbon calls crop tops revealing a piece of naked belly skin rather vulgar, the boys categorize it as sexy. They also consider tight disco pants sexy. Pictures shown on furry coats and neon colored clothing rather bring forth the boys’ desire for the model than that the actual fashion trend is elaborated upon. A small discussion between Verbon and the two boys about comfortable jogging suits for women result in a conclusion from the masculine side that many girls look sexy at a very young 60 age, but that they rather should play with Lego or Barbie dolls than spending so much time on their looks (note the unexpected gender crossing line of women playing with essentially male targeted Lego here). The boys agree that from the age of fifteen onwards a girl can start to dress sexy. Towards the end of the video they come up with some truly objectifying thoughts. They tell Verbon that when girls in general show a slight hint of their breast and emphasize on their ass, men are satisfied. They also state that men in general want to have a nice women, meaning that if she would have a pretty face and attractive curves, she would be all in. Not even a single inner feature of women is mentioned in the generalized image of how men desire a woman to be. Verbon does not actively oppose this notion and rather laughs the topic away a bit. The behavior of the boys, however, does show very clear signs of sexual objectification because they repeatedly show gaze towards the depicted female bodily parts only. Their tone when talking about women is derogatory and even though a feature within Dutch culture is to solve disputes with jokes, the underlying ideas are in fact to be taken serious because of a lack of sarcasm. The notable post named Boys about… fashion trends (29/01) stands in sharp contrast with clothing related posts that are elaborated upon solely by the beauty bloggers themselves. With regard to especially Feoktistova’s and Schultz’s content it can be seen that none of the clothes elaborated upon emphasize particularly on bodily features. No transparent items can be seen and furthermore no single cleavage at all can be spotted. All upper body clothes shown are remarkably high collared. The items shown on Beautygloss and Misslipgloss are very much covering up the majority of the bloggers’ torso’s and with a majority of wide, non tight clothes the main focus is on comfort. This is also carried out in all posts concerning high heels. In Eight Pair of Steve Madden Shoes for 80 euro’s (12/02), Feoktistova places the emphasis on the comfort of the shoes, never even calling them names that could be linked with desire or sexism. She rather sees heels as tools of empowerment in feeling good and confident when giving a presentation. She does, however, call one pair of black heels decorated with studs rather extreme for her taste, but then eventually chooses to describe them with the word forceful, rather linking it to its empowering effects that have earlier been explored through the term lipstick feminism (Levy, 2005). Feoktistova and Schultz have in common that they are open about their insecurities concerning their body shape. Feoktistova is very honest about her belly fat and thus explains to her readers that it doesn’t flatter her when wearing very tight shirts or dresses, especially when the focus is on the area around the stomach. She is very open about having an apple shaped figure but yet doesn’t complain about it. She rather emphasizes what kind of clothes do make her look and feel good. Schultz shares the same point of view on tight clothes, stating that wearing it would definitely not make her look more slim. Both bloggers don’t complain about their bodily shapes and they come across on both film and pictures to have found peace and balance with the way their bodies look, passing on this self love and acceptance 61 towards their readers. The transparency on their own body shape goes against the abundance of mediated female images with unrealistic bodily proportions. Beauty blogs principally focus on make-up products, however, the addition of this small fashion category is of utmost importance to show that widespread objectifying fashion-wise content within mass media cannot be mirrored with beauty blog content. Beauty blogs reflect a sign of recognition for women who resemble more with Feoktistova and Schultz than with women depicted in magazines being tall and skinny, having large breasts and long legs (Peach, 1988). This could eventually even lessen women’s fear of not fitting to the mainstream mediated slim image, because these bloggers make them realize what true bodies look like and that even a little belly fat is something completely normal, as shown by the bloggers themselves. Alternative images of women are thus constructed within the Dutch beauty blogosphere, not corresponding with the Photoshopped images of skinny models in magazines or advertisements. Beauty blogs do not indoctrinate their readers with the idea that being slim automatically brings happiness. Furthermore, the beauty bloggers themselves don’t make use of Photoshop to change their bodily forms or facial features. They rather show that loving one’s own body is a key to fulfillment; bloggers convey their happiness and at the same time the acceptance of their figure. Furthermore, as might be criticized by people from more fashion conscious nations, the rather Dutch preference of comfortability over classy fashion is clearly carried out in all fashion related posts that were monitored on Beautygloss and Misslipgloss. All well covering clothes did not give any space for objectification by Feoktistova and Schultz since no buttocks or breasts were emphasized at all. Whereas Verbon sparsely showed some more tight fashion, also her approach equalized that of Feoktistova and Schultz. The fashion related posts on the three observed Dutch beauty blogs thus bring forth a realistic image of the female body that is conveyed with self love and acceptance without mirroring unachievable standards that characterize other media outlets, in which skinny models can be seen. Bloggers are open about their insecurities, but accept themselves as they are without being ashamed of not fitting to the mediated ideal. No Photoshop is used, readers can identify with the bloggers and bodily features like buttocks or breasts weren’t to be seen within fashion posts elaborating on mainly comfortable clothing for everyday life. Only once one video included some objectifying thoughts, yet, those remarks were made by two masculine teens.

5.5 Food

Many food related pictures come by on all three beauty blogs. Especially Schultz shows and describes a lot of her meals in her Sneak Peek and Plog sections. There are however also articles fully

62 dedicated to recipes, for example Mini ‘USA inspired’ sweet snacks (12/01) or The most tasty cinnamon rolls (26/01) by Verbon. Feoktistova even has a weekly returning section in which her friend Frances shows her viewers, by making use of video material, how to prepare certain dishes or snacks. Regarding Roberts and Fredrickson’s (1997) objectification theory, women are likely to suffer from eating disorders, which could result in excessive dieting. When beauty blogs would thus stimulate their readers to strive for the most desirable body and looks to be obtained, it would be likely for these blogs to offer content on healthy living or even, supporting the image of the Western slim beauty ideal. The table below shows the blog titles concerning the posts that are categorized as food content.

Table 4. Food related blog posts on Beautygloss, Misslipgloss and Beautylab during January and February 2014 Beautygloss Misslipgloss Beautylab Very healthy - Ivana’s Healthy Lifestyle Tips - My Ten Favorite Healthy - Tea from the Tea Bar (08/01) Dishes (08/02) (07/01) - PCOS, Sugar Free Food, Talk with - Optimel Joy Measure – More - New week: sandwich Ralph Moorman (27/02) Enjoyment in 2014 (11/01) obsession (24/02) - Courgette Sticks + Onion Dip - Breakfast Ideas with Optimel (19/01) Greek Style + win! (17/02) - Coconut Pumpkin Soup (05/01) - Pasta with Salmon (26/01) Questionable - Pita Chips + White Bean Dip x - Kitchen lifehacks (content (23/02) ranging from lemon to - Champagne mousse for Valentine chocolate) (15/01) (09/02) - Antillean Cheese Balls + Quiche (16/02) - Healthy Chocolate Mousse (20/01) Rather unhealthy - Gregors Brownies (12/01) x - The Most Tasty Cinnamon - Chicken nuggets (02/02) Rolls (26/01) - Quickest, Easiest and Tastiest Frosting Recipe (27/02) - Pandan Chiffon Spongy Cake (16/02) - Mini USA inspired Sweet Snacks (12/01) - High Tea Recipes (07/01)

It is notable that the food posts are not fully elaborating on healthy snacks or recipes only. Especially Beautylab offers content on sweet and calorie rich snacks. Misslipgloss does, however, elaborate on healthy products only. Two out of three of Schultz’s food labeled posts are advertisements by yoghurt drink Optimel. This drink is targeted as a healthy dairy product that doesn’t contain fat and to which no sugars are added. Within Dutch media this brand is mainly marketed towards women caring about their bodily shape, but whom don’t want to give in on a rich flavor. They claim their customers to be able to enjoy their products carefree, without them having to worry about their calorie intake. With this they convey a message that especially women should not feel guilty when drinking Optimel. Looked at 63 from another perspective, this marketing strategy does push women towards feeling guilty about drinking normal milk with a slight percentage of fat. The essence of these posts are thus contrary to many of the unhealthy snack posts by Verbon on Beautylab, in which no effort is done to convey the sugary recipes as being more healthy than they are. It’s just about pure enjoyment about which women shouldn’t feel guilty. The Optimel Joy Measure – More Enjoyment in 2014 (11/01) post contains a video in which Schultz elaborates on enjoyment in a healthy way. She states that one can easily enjoy snacks that are rather fatty, but that it’s way better to search for healthier alternatives, which again stands in contrast with some of the recipes provided by Feoktistova and mainly Verbon. The deeper notion of health is not further elaborated upon by Schultz, but she surely focuses more on health than the other two bloggers. This is, however, done for her own well being, and not to convey a slim beauty ideal, even though it could be a potential danger for readers to perceive messages in that way.. Schultz herself is open about being not fully slim, but isn’t dieting. Since the actual content of the food related posts vary enormously in essence, it is thus hard to generalize the viewpoint from beauty blogs on food. It is shown that to a certain degree a careful link can be established between the mediated female image of women monitoring their own weight and especially the advertorials conveyed through Misslipgloss. In this case the ideas within the messages of mass advertising can penetrate the Dutch beauty blogosphere, possibly causing a harming effect by actually conveying that women should feel guilty when enjoying food or drinks that contain a higher degree of sugars and fat than lighter alternatives. Beauty bloggers can be seen as examples for their readers as they convey identification through showing themselves without make-up and by also elaborating about their realistic body shapes. Yet, an exemplary role might also bring forth the idea that high calorie food is essentially bad, which could harm young girls with their developing bodies to cut on the calories that their growth is in need of. Nevertheless, this is just a point of critique on the food posts by Schultz on Misslipgloss, as she didn’t offer her readers the same varied choice on healthy but also rather unhealthy food posts as done by Feoktistova and Verbon. Within food related posts, beauty blogs thus don’t elaborate on dieting at all, and overall recipes can be found on both healthy meals and calorie rich snacks. The main idea of these posts is the beautybloggers’ desire to share what she considers tasty. This only concerns Beautygloss and Beautylab, as Misslipgloss only covers food (or in this case beverage) related advertisements with a focus on enjoyment, without hardly any calories. Exactly these posts might generate the idea that it’s bad to consume calorie rich food or drinks that could contribute to the reflection of the mediated beauty ideal of skinny women eventually developing eating disorders.

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5.6 Readers interaction

Not all beauty blogs actively encourage interaction with their readers. Even though many posts are concluded with a question on how readers think about a certain reviewed product, especially Feoktistova emphasizes on active participation with her readers. Some of her posts already have the main question stated within the post title, like Where and how do you put on your make-up? and Mono eye shadow colors – do you use them?. Every three first Sundays of the month she furthermore answers three readers questions, therefore, strengthening interaction between her and her readers, helping them with beauty related questions. No single post from Beautylab seems to fall under the readers interaction category. Verbon thus didn’t directly and clearly ask her readers about their opinion by for example dedicating an entire post to an obvious question. Nevertheless, it should not be forgotten that interaction can take place below any blog posts through the blogs’ commenting systems. Feoktistova and Schultz on the other hand did specifically create interaction posts. This category makes up ten percent of Beautygloss (12 posts) and five percent of Misslipgloss (five posts). The clear interaction with the readers show that the bloggers care about the personal opinions of their readers. This can thus also once again be seen as something that leads away from sexual objectification, since in these posts the focus is on the inside rather than on solely the outside, even though it might concern topics that are connected with beauty. This dimension of two way communication is something that lacks when buying a magazine with its one sided mass on commercialization. On beauty blogs it is thus often stimulated to cast one’s voice, the opposite of being regarded as just a mindless object with the only focus on looks, perceiving all kind of commercialized and perfectionized images. But, as discussed earlier, beauty blogs might have ties with the mechanism of advertising as well. The interactive feature only generates more uncensored opinions instead of no feedback at all. In total, all three beauty blogs received 55529 comments during January and February 2014. The average amount of comment per blog post is 157. The table below shows which blog posts received the most comments and which particular topics they covered.

Table 5. Most commented blog posts on Beautygloss, Misslipgloss and Beautylab during January and February 2014 Beautygloss Misslipgloss Beautylab Most popular post Win: Booho Izzy velvet Plogging: you may Win 1000 euro’s of boots in size 41 (04/02) choose (13/01) shopping money at C&A (26/02) Topic A competition to win a Readers could cast their A competition on pair of shoes that voice on whether or not winning 1000 euro’s 65

Feoktistova accidentally Schultz should continue and a shopping trip with ordered twice. photo blogging. Verbon. Comments 1222 292 254 Second popular post I suffer from PCOS Choose: pale or too Primark bootilicious (31/01) orange? (15/01) (11/02) Topic About Feoktistova’s Question on whether About a female slip with hormonal dysfunction readers would rather padded ass cheeks and that she suffers look too orange or claiming surgery free from Polycystic Ovary extremely white. curves. Syndrome Comments 1114 279 203 Third popular post Beautygloss.nl has a Plog: 6 January 2014 Catrice eye brow set new layout (26/02) (07/01) (19/02) Topic About the renewed blog 31 pictures of Schultz’s A very elaborated layout . day about fridge review of Catrice’s eye content, meals, to-do brow set. lists, outfits and make- up of that day. Comments 731 229 196

Beauty blogs thus deviate from other media outlets in their close connection with readers. Entire blog posts are dedication to questions, opinions and answers and below every single blog post, readers are free to cast their voice by adding a comment. Readers are free to convey dissatisfaction but may also cast supportive feedback.

5.7 Beauty identification within blog posts

Even though the largest emphasis of the content of Beautygloss, Misslipgloss and Beautylab is on beauty products, there is a small set of posts that stand out from the norm. Those articles rather address the personal and societal aspects of beauty and digs deeper into the reason of wearing make-up. Even though Verbon’s blog stands out because of its touch of lab analysis concerning ingredients in beauty products, it doesn’t specifically cover inner beauty matters during the January and February months of 2014. On Beautygloss the notion of beauty comprises one percent (one post) of the entire blog content within the two month time span. On Misslipgloss this is three percent (three posts). Feoktistova’s post Gloss Talk: would you stop wearing a fragrance for your boyfriend? (01/24) makes space for a discussion. In her article she firstly answers the question from her personal perspective, stating she would stop wearing the fragrance when her boyfriend would not like the smell of it. She calls herself rather conservative because of this, yet, she also points out that she doesn’t wear the fragrance solely for his pleasure. Most of the readers’ comments state that they would stop wearing this particular fragrance when their boyfriend would be with them, but that they wouldn’t let it get that far of not

66 wearing this fragrance ever again. They point out their desire to keep on using it, only if they would be away from their significant other for a while. Generally the readers would thus not that easily let their partners’ opinion overrule their taste. The discussions generated through such a post bring forth a more thought out idea on beauty and gender roles within society, digging deeper than a sole focus on beauty products and their pro’s and con’s. Schultz eventually comes with three of these type of posts during the observed two months. On January 3rd, she asks herself and her readers the question if looking nice (getting dressed, applying make- up and doing one’s hair) is something done solely for one’s self or if this effort is rather done to please others (posted on 23/01/2014). Schultz states she uses make-up entirely for herself, because she likes to apply make-up and it makes her feel good. She also points out her boyfriend often sees her without make- up and that she doesn’t have any problems with that, yet, when going to business meetings as a beauty blogger she does consider it appropriate to wear make-up, since it’s part of her job. Schultz also describes she sometimes leaves the house without any hint of make-up and then gets recognized on the streets by her readers. Since she posts a lot of make-upless pictures of her face on her blog, she’s not bothered when meeting people without having applied make-up first. The concluding question of her article is if her readers would never be able to leave their house anymore, if they would still take care of their looks through the usage of cosmetic products. Schultz personally would, but maybe not every day of the week. She doesn’t mention anything about expectations of others on how she should look, just that she herself would feel more comfortable when taking care of her looks. With this she shows that make-up is not a must and that she thus also doesn’t convey a forced tone towards her readers with the message they should always look upper best. Many of Schultz’s readers took the time to think over the matter and write a well thought out comment. It is notable that many visitors show their respect for this kind of discussion, stating it’s something important and interesting. Many women elaborate on their self confidence when stating they still would use make-up. Nevertheless, with regard to the initial question, they do state that they might not apply make-up every day when not leaving the house ever again. For many, make-up is something energizing that makes them feel more fit, more awake and fresh and less sluggish. In some cases it is mentioned that make-up is a factor that can boost one’s self confidence and that without applying make-up, one’s self esteem can be lower to a high degree. A lot of comments thus elaborate on women’s own advantage of using make-up and that it contributes in carrying out their own identity. This is the idea beauty blogs convey. Just a very small amount of women, often hesitantly, admit that to a certain degree they wear make-up for others, even though this notion is often accompanied by the statement they still for the biggest part wear make-up for themselves only.

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On February 23th, Schultz posted an article in which she generated a discussion about beauty and the pressure to look good all the time. She asked her readers if they rather doll themselves up during the weekend, or if they take a break from applying make-up and dressing nicely. She firstly elaborates on her personal opinion in which she admits rather not to wear make-up during weekends. Her weekdays are rather packed with work for her blog. She often applies make-up during these days since she can take pictures of it and use these in her articles when reviewing certain products. She also feels like looking more representative as a beauty blogger when appearing at a business meeting while wearing make-up. Since her work days are filled with activities, Schultz states rather not to wear make-up during weekends, except when going out for a diner or anything alike. Effort is, however, made in facial cleaning and general bodily care like showering or washing her hair. She accompanies these words with pictures of herself wearing a comfortable one-piece suit, showing that during the weekend she often chooses comfort above style. Schultz’s readers react mixed on her question if they pay much attention to their appearance during the weekends. Some say they focus more on their looks during their work days than weekends stating they prefer to look representative when working. Many of them would then rather take it slow during the weekends and only apply make-up when going out. It is often mention that it is perceived very comfortable not to dress up properly and not to apply make-up during the weekends, especially during so called lazy Sundays. Many spend their weekends like this, even when being around their boyfriend. Nobody mentioned feeling uncomfortable when spending time with one’s boyfriend while wearing jogging pants but no make-up. With articles like these, blog readers are stimulated to think about their beauty behavior, being shown that even the beauty bloggers themselves don’t always wear make-up. Beauty blogs thus don’t initially push their readers towards applying make-up every single day, but rather show that make-up can be a tool in order to feel confident during for example business meetings. Beauty bloggers often wear comfortable clothes without any make-up, also with their boyfriend around. Posts that generate discussions on beauty provide thinking space on a more personal and societal perception of the reasons behind make-up usage. Whereas all major beauty blog categories have been elaborated now, the two following sup chapters will give an extra insight on two other essential fields, namely Photoshop and personality.

5.8 Photoshop and beauty constructions

On February 16th, 2014, Schultz posted an article that has to do with the identification of beauty. She discussed Photoshop and illustrates her viewpoint by a video she gladly wanted to share with her readers. In this video, four women, which look just completely normal, are offered a photo shoot. Their

68 reaction is filmed when they see the final result, after retouching by an expert has been applied onto the photo. Imperfections are removed and certain body parts are slimmed down. The women facing their newly created appearances don’t like the result at all, stating they feel like looking at somebody else instead, realizing how contemporary society betrays women by showing so many unreal images throughout various media outlets. The reason for posting this article derived from Schultz’s bad experience during a photo shoot. She had many of them, but all in which she felt she could be herself, with her own clothes or at least in clothes in which she felt fully comfortable. In this particular case she was styled by a stylist and even her make-up was done by a make-up artist. She didn’t feel like herself anymore, also not with the high heels and the revealing top she was wearing. When she eventually found back the result of this photo shoot in a magazine, she was shocked to see herself being Photoshopped. Her legs and waist-line appeared to be a lot more slim. She promised herself never to undergo anything like this ever again and took Sunny Bergman (2013) as an example for this decision, who in her documentaries also showed to be against creating a false and non-realistic image of herself. Schultz eventually signs out a clear message to all her readers, stating that nobody can ever be fully perfect and that all models shown in magazines face this same issue, especially also because all of them are photoshopped. In her eyes, Photoshop can erase crucial parts of one’s identity, and, therefore, Schultz encourages women just to be their selves, whether it be with or without make-up, with or without dyed hair or with or without hair extensions. She thus doesn’t judge the usage of products that can transform one’s appearance drastically outside the virtual sphere. Her main message is that women all may have their own ideas on how to render their identity, as long as they just feel good about themselves. Misslipgloss thus also doesn’t convey female mediated perfection as in magazines or advertisements, criticized for prurient and unrealistic images. The post is ended with a short passage on Schultz’s own Photoshop usage. She does admit to use it herself from time to time, yet, only for cropping pictures and sporadically adjusting their contrast a little. She points out once again that also she herself is not perfect and that she also has some spots, impurities and dark under eye circles. Even though she’d always try to capture herself on film as advantageous as possible, she would never use Photoshop to achieve non- existing perfection.. The readers of Misslipgloss praise Schultz for addressing this topic on her beauty blog and many commenters agree with the notion of staying true to one’s self. Many women commenting on this post state they dislike the amount of Photoshop tricks used nowadays through which an unachievable picture of beauty is created. Some also admit these images makes them insecure, even though they know that also the models depicted can’t be fully perfect in real. As shown through Schultz’s own perception and by the comments that derived on the well appreciated article about Photoshop, it can be seen that openness about imperfections is a characteristic of 69 beauty blogs and that no effort is done to erase impurities. Schultz’s realistic image makes her feel more comfortable than being digitally adjusted, showing that self love and self acceptance eventually generate more satisfaction than being the most desired lust object through a sexy and idealized appearance. This is also shown in the upcoming sub chapter, emphasizing personality, and not any means of sexual desire.

5.9 Personality and individualization

Notable within all three observed Dutch beauty blogs is that business and personal matters are not strictly separated. This can for a large degree be seen through the high amount of diary posts in which everyday life is highlighted, also behind the scenes of the blog, even as far as the family sphere. Feoktistova, Schultz and Verbon construct a strong online identity by adding a personal touch to their messages. Some posts even elaborate solely on rather private matters, like I suffer from PCOS (Polycystic ovary syndrome) (31/01) on Beautygloss or Coco and Clarence (15/02) on Beautylab, about Verbon’s two cats. These posts create a bond between the reader and the blogger without knowing each other in real, as they are constructed in such a personal way. Whether magazines offer rather standardized stories without a clear emphasis on the author, beauty blogs go further in individualization and the construction of their online identity. This is strengthened by the readers ability to leave comments below every blog post, on which the beauty bloggers themselves can reply as well. The level of interaction is, therefore, higher than dealing with media like magazines or TV. The closeness between the bloggers and their readers shows a deviation concerning blogs and other media outlets. That this personal touch is highly valued by Beautygloss readers will become more clear within the next chapter, in which blog readers provide their personal views upon beauty blogs and female mediated beauty. The current chapter elaborated amongst others about reviews concerning make- up, personal picture diaries and food and fashion posts, showing that beauty blogs generate realistic, identifiable content, but that a critical side note can be placed about the almost invisible but present role of advertising within beauty blogs.

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6. READERS PERCEPTIONS TOWARDS MEDIATED FEMALE BEAUTY REPRESENTATIONS

The guest article How does Beautygloss contribute to the image of contemporary women in society? (original title: Hoe draagt Beautygloss bij aan het beeld van de hedendaagse vrouwen in de maatschappij?) appeared online on Monday morning, March 31st, 2014. It received in total 168 comments. Any comments posted later than April 7th were not taken into account anymore. The average length per comment is 226 words, which comes down to approximately 14 lines of text, of course depending on the used typeface. The amount of useful comments came down to 160, since double comments and additional comments by the same author added within a short time span after their first comment were left out or combined. 25 comments not being relevant enough were left out, leaving 135 comments for the actual analysis. It was notable that some commenters clearly took the time to write down a well argued comment. In three cases the length of the comment namely came down to or exceeded 500 words (thus filling up an A4 sheet of paper). A total of 51 comments started off expressing sympathy for the topic. 28 times the word ‘interesting’ was used to convey this notion, but also ‘nice’ (used seven times) and ‘beautiful’ (used also seven times) were chosen to express appreciation. Used only once were for example ‘very important topic’ and ‘fascinating topic’. One comment elaborated upon the style of commenting, in which user Joli (31/03/2014 at 14.45) stated that it’s “nice that everybody can express themselves and that nobody feels offended by any of the statements”. User Carolien (31/03/2014 at 17.09) added to that “What a relief that indeed nobody judges another. It’s making the topic comfortable and very interesting to read”. There is no demographical information available about the commenters. It was furthermore up to them whether to choose their own name or a nickname as a means of post identification. The comments derived can roughly be separated into three different sections, the first being fully positive about beauty blogs (and Beautygloss by Mascha Feoktistova in particular), meaning that the influence of this medium doesn’t have any negative but rather a very positive effect on the image of contemporary women in society. The second type of comment provides features belonging to this first section, but is supplemented by a critical note, bringing across (possible) negative influences from the commenter’s perspective. The comments belonging to the third section are heavily critical towards beauty blogs without any positive aspects being mentioned at all. The majority of the 135 comments, namely 103 of them, consisted of a positive message. Only five comments conveyed a negative message and 27 commenters responded both positively and negatively on the question asked within the blog post. The

71 upcoming nine sub chapters each elaborate on the subjects of the main returning and most deviating comments that were collected.

6.1 Inner beauty

In 22 comments, Feoktistova’s attention for inner beauty was mentioned specifically by word usage like ‘inner beauty’ (both in Dutch (innerlijke schoonheid) and English), ‘beauty from the inside’ and ‘the inside’. In twenty of these comments it is pointed out that the commenters value blog posts or video’s that are not solely about outer looks. Articles on inner beauty in general are also mentioned to defend the commenters’ arguments on beauty blogs not having to do anything with a perfectionized beauty ideal, whereas magazines and other mediums are criticized for conveying this idea. Wordings like objectification weren’t used in any of the comments, yet, many ideas came down to the same principle by the usage of more simple words. Interestingly, none of the Beautygloss visitors mentioning inner beauty topics actually came up with concrete examples. Some link it to the depiction of Feoktistova without make-up when starting off to create a certain look in a tutorial, which is, however, not a fully fitting comparison to inner beauty in this sense. No specific blog posts are thus mentioned that give a clear example on what this inner beauty topic exactly covers. Two comments transfer a critical note. User J. (01/04/2014 at 19.15) posted that inner beauty is not really covered on Beautygloss as well as on other beauty blogs. “Instead of movies covering nice make-up looks, there should rather be movies about tips to love yourself!”. She explains that in her eyes, make-up and clothing (not specified which clothing) contribute to ones confidence in a wrong way and that blog posts showing how to cover impurities push girls towards insecurity. It can be argued here whether this statement is justified, as beauty blogs are a niche medium with the intention to cover beauty related messages. Kim (31/03/2014 at 15.10) agrees that beauty blogs in general do not cover enough inner beauty matters but that Beautygloss does. She points out that other blogs elaborate too much on making one’s self pretty and that women can, therefore, think it’s an obligation to wear make-up. Up to discussion here is if it can be expected from beauty blogs to satisfy readers like these in their desire for inner beauty topics, since beauty blogging stays a niche topic focusing on make-up. Besides the slight critique there were many commenters that shared an opposite point of view. Anna (31/03/2014 at 09.51) describes Feoktistova as being an independent woman that “clearly shows that inner beauty is more important than outer beauty”. User Maartje (01/04/2014 at 00.44) states that “especially Mascha gives me the impression that one’s inside is more important than one’s outside, and that you should believe in yourself”. Julia (31/03/2014 at 09.04) also points out that beauty blogs and Beautygloss in general often focus on inner beauty matters, and that these posts can generally

72 make women feel more confident. The vast majority of commenters, except the two ones providing a critical view, thus bring fort the notion of strengthening effects of inner beauty posts. Feoktistova categorizes her own articles with tags like Make-Up, Movie, Hair, Body, Facial Care, Nails and Ask Your Question. These are the topics to choose from when clicking the subject button at the upper bar of Beautygloss. Inner Beauty is not a category to be found in this selection. Nevertheless, the guest article that was published for this particular research did receive the label Inner Beauty, visible at the bottom of the story. Coming back to the beauty blog content, it can be seen that in the observed period of time comprising January and February 2014, Feoktistova labeled only one single other post with the Inner Beauty tag too. This concerned the post Tip: concentration music (29/01), which elaborates on Feoktistova’s ability to concentrate better and work harder when listening to calm instrumental songs, of which she mentions several examples. There is thus not a very defined area of which topics particularly belong to inner beauty, yet, the commenters do point out its importance. This shows that besides the interest in make-up, readers also appreciate blog posts that deviate from outer appearance focused topics. It can thus not be said that Dutch beauty blogs, and Beautygloss in particular, are solely emphasizing on make-up and certain looks one might create with cosmetics. Beauty blogs go deeper than just that. Whereas the readers perceptions don’t provide concrete useful insights on what inner beauty might be, the blog content coverage to be found in the previous chapter provides a little more clarity on posts elaborating non-make-up issues, especially the readers interaction and beauty identification sub chapters. The majority of beauty blog readers that responded on the blog post on mediated female beauty, mentioning inner beauty, conveyed the appreciation for this coverage. A small minority considers the amount of inner beauty within beauty blogs as insufficient. No statements were made providing examples on inner beauty, but blogs offering more than just information about make-up are judged positively. The next chapter shows that the personal touch of beauty blogs is also appreciated.

6.2 Identification and recognition

In a total of 35 comments, Beautygloss readers elaborate upon personal characteristics of Beautygloss’ owner Mascha Feoktistova. In at least ten of these comments, Feoktistova is described as serving an exemplary role for beauty blog readers. Marije – Bakingbeauty.nl (31/03/2014 at 10.35) mentions that Feoktistova is a good example for contemporary women by pointing out that she “is not a fake bimbo, which, when waking up, looks like miss Doutzen Kroes herself” (Doutzen Kroes is one of the most successful Dutch fashion and cosmetics models). She continues by stating that Feoktistova doesn’t particularly look perfect after just waking up, but that without any sense of shame she does film herself

73 occasionally when looking like that. Melissa (31/03/2014 at 10.40) comments that she personally sees Feoktistova as a true example. “Hardworking, successful businesswoman! Besides that also very normal because of all the personal articles and movies”. Whereas these characteristics are brought forth as Feoktistova being an example for her readers, the essence of these descriptions seem tied with a degree of recognition. The commenters realize that they have things in common with Feoktistova and that Beautygloss doesn’t convey the idea that waking up looking like a super star is normal. Danique (31/03/2014 at 15.06) mentions that beauty blogs in general contribute in a positive way to the image of women and that Feoktistova herself embodies this by her positive look on life. “Besides that, she also independently started up her own business and moreover she has an equal relationship with her boyfriend”. Danique is not the only commenter that points out independence. In three other comments this opinion is clarified, for example by Anna (31/03/2014 at 09.51). “This beauty blog doesn’t contribute to a subordinate image of women at all <…> Mascha is very independent and autonomous”. Also Marre (05/04/2014) mentions Feoktistova’s independence and adds that “a better female example is hard to be found”. She furthermore elaborates on the strength of Beautygloss, which in her eyes is the down to earth way in which Feoktistova conveys her messages. Because of this approachable and personal touch, the identification process between the blogger and her readers have a lower threshold than when mirroring with a model in a magazine that often cannot convey anything else than her looks. Marre concludes the main idea send out through Beautygloss as “love yourself, point”. She thus shows that Beautygloss isn’t just about make-up, but that also deeper topics are discussed that are connected to self worth. Besides Feoktistova serving for some as an example with the characteristic of being independent, five commenters also described one of her characteristics as being inspiring. Nienkeeee (31/03/2014 at 08.35) says “The primary reason to return daily to Beautygloss is because Mascha herself inspires me to be strong, to follow dreams and to work hard for your own goals, despite of who you are”. She states that she realizes that we’re still living in a men’s world, that she personally thinks that women are subordinate to men and that women are indeed seen as objects of lust. “Through Mascha’s blog I regained confidence that women can also build up a business and that women can decide upon their own future”. Readers are thus inspired by Feoktistova’s business achievements. This stands in contrast with female targeted magazines that appeared during the first few decades of the twentieth century in which women were sold the idea of living in the shadow of their hard working men, and that the only pursuit for a woman was the satisfaction of her husband and the achievement of perfection, domestic and beauty wise (Friedan, 1963). Feoktistova shows herself as a hard working women, being the owner of the Netherlands’ most visited beauty blog. This doesn’t mean she’s applying make-up all day and eventually writing an article about it. Feoktistova is also responsible for all businesses behind the scenes, like hosting agreements, discussions 74 about advertorials and marketing issues and the organization of her yearly returning Beautygloss party. Blog readers thus clearly value that Feoktistova isn’t just writing reviews, but that she also thoroughly elaborates on matters besides testing make-up and writing blog posts. Interestingly, inspiration as mentioned by beauty blog readers isn’t linked with the creation of certain looks through make-up but is rather viewed upon more fundamental life benefits. Other personal characteristics that were mentioned were for example strong (by Evi, 03/04/2014 at 20.31), vigorous (by Leonie, 31/03/2014 at 21.52) but also vulnerable (by Yasmin, 31/03/2014 at 08.35). The latter mentions that “this is the most strong aspect of your blog, you’re showing your vulnerability. This is especially exceptional because other media eventually only focus on money money money”. This statement is up for discussion since Feoktistova isn’t just a hobby blogger, but actually lives from all the revenues that the advertisements on her blog generate. Differently said, the focus of Beautygloss is on a realistic beauty ideal and self worth with a personal touch, with the additional financial benefit for Feoktistova. Besides positive characteristics belonging to Feoktistova in the eyes of her blog visitors, also a more critical discussion appeared within the comments. As already noted above there are some readers that can easily identify themselves with Feoktistova. Some of them call her a ‘girl next door’, thus, an ordinary, down-to-earth girl that could basically also be one’s neighbor. However, some commenters disagree with this denomination. User Luna (31/03/2014 at 16.02) states that “It’s not that normal to go to a beauty specialist monthly, to a hairdresser whenever you wish or to wax your legs monthly, just because it’s easy, or to correct your eye brows, because why not, or to have a massage weekly”. Luna concludes for herself that Feoktistova’s life is 100x different than that from a girl next door. She furthermore elaborates deeper on the topic by questioning how fair beauty blogs are that make use of paid advertisements. “Beauty bloggers are personal and fair they say, but beauty blogging is also just a job, it is a business and money has to be earned”. She questions whether beauty bloggers pay at all for the above mentioned treatments and if bloggers can earn those treatments by just mentioning the names of the salons several times, or by showing a picture of the salon’s house front. Comments like these could bring forth the idea that beauty blog readers wish to receive more transparent information about freely obtained products and treatments or whether products and services were personally paid for by the beauty blogger. Misslipgloss often already points out in her articles whether or not she received her used make-up products in a blog post for free or not. This is not the case on Beautygloss and Beautylab. Hairdresser visits or treatments in a skin care salon often come across in for example the weekly picture diaries that the three observed Dutch beauty bloggers post. Yet, it’s unclear to the readers if pictures and short messages about these visits are an obligatory part of the process in which the beauty blogger receives free 75 treatments in return, or if everything is fairly paid for. This is the case for all three observed Dutch beauty blogs. Luna eventually continues saying that “young girls often see beauty bloggers as gods, idols. That’s beautiful, but somehow also dangerous. <…> a successful beauty blogger might look like the girl next door, but her life is so distanced from your front door”. Inge (31/03/2014 at 23.04) agrees that beauty bloggers are not ordinary girls “because of the large amount of products they own, the haircuts they get for free, or the tooth whitening treatments, or massages or I don’t know what”. Some readers are thus very critical about the abundance of beauty luxury that beauty blogs send out to their audience. Sara (31/03/2014 at 12.25) points out that she likes Beautygloss and its owner Feoktistova a lot, but that she would like to reply on the question how beauty blogs in general contribute to the image of contemporary women in society with a critical note. “I think that beauty blogs do carry out the image that women have to be beautiful and well taken care of in order to be accepted within society”. She explains that in her eyes, the beauty ideal conveyed by big brands through advertisements and as depicted on beauty blogs are essentially similar. “The message is just brought in a very accessible way by a girl next door, through which everything seems to come across more reliable, which, however, makes it extra difficult to break through the stereotypes and beauty ideals concerning mediated female beauty”. Despite of earlier statements from commenters arguing that Feoktistova is not a girl next door, Sara sees it from another perspective, mentioning that in comparison with mass advertisements by multinationals, beauty bloggers do convey their messages in a very approachable way, strengthening identification from the readers towards to blogger. This very personal aspect that can be found on beauty blogs is something that doesn’t characterize mass spread advertisements. “… it’s an illusion to think that beauty blogs don’t reason in the same extend of beauty ideals that prevail in society”, as concluded by Sara. Whereas Feoktistova is mentioned several times as being an example, strong and independent, a small set of commenters argue she’s not particularly a girl next door. The majority of Beautygloss readers can identify with Feoktistova, still, others think that many possessions and beauty treatments cast the beauty bloggers away from proper identification with their readers, being the minority though. On the one hand Feoktistova is seen as a girl next door, even by Sara (31/03/2014 at 12.25), who mentions that this is just a way to convey commercial messages in an easy accessible way. On the other hand, Feoktistova is being criticized for not being a girl next door at all. The opinions on this topic represent both sides, but the vast majority does, however, consider Beautygloss as medium to identify with, bringing forth messages with a recognizable touch. Besides the mentioned specific characteristics of Feoktistova, a total of thirteen Beautygloss readers emphasize on the personal aspect of Dutch beauty blogs. “The articles that she [ed. Feoktistova] writes and the movies she records always contain a personal touch”, as said by Dagmar (31/03/2014 at 10.20). She strengthens her point of view with an example in which Feoktistova recently showed in a 76 video how she prepares herself beauty-wise before going to a party. The main message that Dagmar concluded out of this is that “this whole routine is carried out to feel better yourself, not to be the stereotype make-up girl or to make yourself pretty for a man, but truly just for yourself”. Iris (31/03/2014 at 10.10) states that “I agree that beauty blogs (that are personal and honest like Beautygloss and also Misslipgloss) contribute to women’s self-confidence and power instead of making them feel insecure”. Marloes (31/03/2014 at 09.01) mentions that Feoktistova comes across so human because of the personal touch on her blog. “If Beautygloss would force me to one thing it’s most certainly to be creative”. This shows that besides the personal weekly diaries that are rather meant to entertain instead of to educate or generate creativity with for example make-up, blog posts fitting to categories other than diaries also generate a feeling of self worth and inspiration. Interestingly, none of the commenters give solid examples on what characterizes personal blog posts. User Kim, however, does mention an issue she considers to be important. “The ones [eg. beauty bloggers] that allow you into their personal life create a clearer image on their position within a relationship and how they deal with it”. With this she means that Feoktistova doesn’t hide her boyfriend from her audience and that he’s regularly visible on both video’s and pictures on Beautygloss. Frances (31/03/2014 at 07.27) points out that personal stories are also intertwined with societal topics of importance to youngsters. “Beautygloss doesn’t convey at all that life is about make-up only, partly because Mascha also pays attention to for example inner beauty, current topics like condoms and bullying and of course just her personal life”. It could be because of her educational background in social sciences that Feoktistova is very open about these actual topics. She’s not afraid to share her own experiences, which brings her very close to her readers. Comments like these clearly show that the term beauty blog might not fully cover the topic as expected. The term beauty is very abstract and inner and outer beauty don’t have a clear set of aspects belonging to each of the terms. Readers value the personal touch on beauty blogs, something which is less present within contemporary female magazines or in advertisements. Many readers consider Feoktistova to be an example and realize they can identify with her because of the recognition created through personal statements within blog posts. Feoktistova inspires her readers in her role as business woman, which clarifies that not solely information about make-up is posted. Whereas many readers see her as a girl next door, some argue she’s far from that, because of all the free beauty products and treatments she receives. This connection with marketing is, following many, not transparent enough, leading towards statements that beauty blogs are essentially marketing platforms, but with a low threshold. That messages through advertisements are very different from the ones on blogs is shown in the next sub chapter.

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6.3 Reality and perfection

In a total of 79 comments, Beautygloss readers explicitly mention what the main characteristics of Beautygloss or beauty blogs in general are. In 27 comments words like reality, realistic, real and unrealistic were used. Almost all of these denominations brought forth the idea that beauty blogs convey a realistic image of beauty. When commenters made use of the word unrealistic they emphasized for example “…I don’t think that she [ed. Feoktistova] would contribute to an unrealistic image of women”, as written by user Lobke (02/04/2014 at 00.44). Lisa (31/03/2014 at 09.56) sees Beautygloss as a “good image of reality”. She also mentions an example on why she considers Feoktistova’s blog to be so realistic. “…Mascha herself also states that she isn’t the most skinny person <…> … what I’m trying to say is that we can identify ourselves with a realistic person, not with a model sized 34. That gives many people confidence”. This can also clearly be seen within the fashion related blog posts, in which Feoktistova talks about her bodily imperfections while sending out the main message that she is pleased with how she looks like, giving her readers the idea that self love is better than fitting to a beauty ideal that is constructed with the usage of Photoshop. Anneloes (31/03/2014 at 2014) writes in her comment that “Real ladies that test products thoroughly bring forth a reality that is highly necessary within a society sending out a distorted image of perfection that doesn’t exist”. 26 comments represent this very same idea. However, commenter Saarenzo (31/03/2014 at 12.44) isn’t fully positive. She starts off stating “I see beauty bloggers more like a kind of friends that I never see in real <…> … they are just real women with a beautiful appearance and a nice personality”. Nevertheless, she also mentions that beauty bloggers sometimes write about issues that eventually make her feel insecure about herself. “Everybody seems to must have a nicely bronzed skin, a perfect hair cut and beautifully white teeth. Here I am, with my luminous white legs, simple hair cut and slightly yellow teeth because of my enormous love for black tea”. She explains that this pressure on perfection was set in motion as soon as she started reading beauty blogs, and that before that, this insecurity didn’t exist. She eventually concludes her two sided perspective by stating that she does enjoy reading beauty blogs a lot and that using make-up is not something that feels like an obligation for her. Regarding Saarenzo’s comment it can be seen that beauty blogs can in some cases contribute to the creation of norms, but that most of the Beautygloss readers consider beauty blogs as a very realistic medium with which they can indentify. Another set of words that often returned within the comments were perfect, perfection and imperfections. They were mentioned in a total of 24 comments. All of these comments elaborate on the same idea, namely that the commenters do not consider beauty blogs conveying the idea that perfection is obligatory. They all write that Beautygloss or beauty blogs in general do not aim at transferring an 78 unrealistic beauty ideal. KimWest (31/03/2014 at 16.28) states that Feoktistova doesn’t have a perfect body, but that she is, however, wonderful to look at. “In my ideal world, all commercials about beauty, in magazines and on TV, would be made and replaced by girls and boys that make blogs/vlogs like these”. She says she values that bloggers show their imperfections and that “when these kind of blogs would have existed when I was 12/13, I would have been a lot less insecure”. Iris (31/03/2014 at 10.10) points out some examples of these so called imperfections. “I think Mascha is a wonderful, beautiful and inspiring woman <…> but she doesn’t solely render perfection, as she speaks very openly about her scoliosis, hair loss, acne and apple shaped body figure”. Here Beautygloss strengthens the degree of identification and recognition between the blogger and reader, going against the mediated beauty ideal as criticized in for example advertisements, in which any of the previously mentioned imperfections would not easily be used as marketing images. From the commenters that primarily used the words reality and perfection to convey their point of view, only one commenter replied with a critical note as seen above. Yet, the ones using other wordings were not all that concordant. From the 28 comments that remain when leaving out all reality and perfection focusing phrases, ten Beautygloss readers are very critical. Nienke (31/03/2014 at 22.00) firstly mentions that she doesn’t really think that beauty blogs convey a wrong image of women, but nevertheless “blogs can, however, put a certain pressure on you, like fixing your make-up perfectly and being busy with your appearance a lot”. Still, she also points out that some beauty bloggers from time to time state that many of their readers do not even wear make-up at all, casting away from the idea that make-up usage is a must. Nienke is thus not fully negative about the beauty blog mechanism. Evelien (01/04/2014 at 19.52) also shares a two sided opinion. On the one hand she thinks that Beautygloss does contribute to the image of women as objects of lust. “Norms are created about for example hair removal. Hairs, and especially the ones down under, are considered as not done”. On the other hand she states that Beautygloss also supports the image of independent women, which slightly contradicts her earlier statement. Julia (31/03/2014 at 09.04) says that beauty blogs don’t particularly convey the image of the ideal woman. Yet, “actually unintentionally a kind of ideal is created I guess, in which for example a beautiful, flawless skin is considered prettier than a skin with imperfections”. Julia furthermore points out the influence that especially well visited beauty blogs have. “When they are for example very enthusiastic about lash extensions, their readers might more quickly use them too <…> in this way maybe still some kind of ideal is established for their readers”. Also user J. (01/04/2014 at 19.15) criticizes the image that beauty blogs in general might convey to their readers. “Every beauty blogger has made some movies about ‘How to cover pimples’ or ‘Tips on how become more skinny’, and I think that the girls that were maybe not insecure about these issues before, now do get the idea they should be insecure about it”. In the 79 beauty blog content chapter above it can be seen that skin impurities are often concealed, but that’s one of the very essences of widely used make-up products like foundation and concealer. Blog posts on weight loss didn’t come across during the two month coverage time. The amount of food posts partly focused on healthy dishes, but also covered a lot of sugary and high calorie recopies. None of the observed posts brought forth the specific idea of weight loss, but J. of course could have spotted these movies on beauty blogs that were not included in this research. Assiepoester (31/03/2014 at 12.48) opposes all readers that state that beauty blogs are conveying such a realistic image of reality. She respects the way how Feoktistova became the most successful beauty blogger in the Netherlands but that “exuberant shopping, a lot of travelling, lots of material possessions <…> are just a few examples that I came across lately”, which she doesn’t appreciate. Jenny (31/03/2014 at 15.14) shares a similar thought. Even though she mentions she thankfully uses beauty blogs as useful review platforms before purchasing any make-up products, she does think that “it seems like all this luxury is normal. Not every [ed. beauty blog] visitor can permit herself the purchase of luxurious beauty products, just as regularly eating out , lots of shopping, etc.”. Judith (31/03/2014 at 14.34) states that she herself isn’t afraid to leave the house without any make-up, but that Beautygloss might scare others not to leave the house without make-up “because Mascha shows herself on her website as the person who always and everywhere is busy with herself”. As will be elaborated later on, Judith’s vision on make-up usage is rather opposed by a fair amount of commenters that state Mascha’s make-up less face is one of the factors that make beauty blogs so realistic. It is notable with all of these comments that whenever a slightly critical point of view is shared, it’s always preceded or followed by a compliment towards Feoktistova or a positive comment on beauty blogs in general. The majority of respondents thus agreed that beauty blogs show a realistic image of beauty, for example to be noted by Feoktistova’s size 40, not conforming to the mediated beauty ideal in other media outlets. Many respondents also point out that beauty blogs don’t hide the bloggers’ imperfections, whereas media in general are known for conveying idealized images of female perfection. Beauty blogs are characterized by recognition and identification. Nevertheless, some critical notes appeared on beauty norms brought forth by beauty blogs, concerning bronzing, hair removal and applying make-up as a must. Besides the majority of readers calling beauty blogs realistic, a minority of the respondents consider the bloggers’ lifestyles too exuberant to be realistic. Yet, the upcoming sub chapter brings forth recognizability once again.

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6.4 Plain face appreciation

A total of 26 comments elaborated upon the fact that Feoktistova can often be spotted on her blog without wearing any make-up at all. All of these comments conveyed a positive feeling about that, showing in many cases that readers in this way can identify with Feoktistova or other bloggers, interfacing everyday life between themselves and the bloggers. Eva (31/03/2014 at 09.46) says “She [ed. Feoktistova] appears often enough on her website without make-up without making an issue out of it or ‘mehh, see how ugly I am without make-up’”. Lana (31/03/2014 at 18.47) points out that she likes the make-upless Feoktistova even better than when she does wear make-up. “…I feel more connected to her. Then she’s more herself, and I feel more like a bond so to say”. Lana can thus identify herself with Feoktistova. With the statements about Feoktistova not wearing make-up also some more imperfections are mentioned that contribute to the non Photoshopped reality that beauty blogs transfer. “I think Mascha is very cool because she’s not ashamed of herself, haha. On Beautygloss you find a lot of make-upless pictures and even one’s with a moustache”, as said by Bente (31/03/2014 at 18.29), pointing out the fuzzy upper lip hair women sometimes have. She furthermore states that she clearly sees beauty bloggers also having pimples from time to time, and that she’s not the only one struggling with these facial impurities. Anna (31/03/2014 at 09.51) writes “You often see Mascha without make-up and she previously carried out already how important it is that you also consider yourself to be all fine without wearing any make-up at all”. She mentions an article that elaborated upon Feoktistova’s insecurities, with in particular her slight hooknose, but that “she declares never to consider plastic surgery”. This goes against the idea of sexual objectification, which can have the effect of the female desire to change their appearance through plastic surgery, as shown by Fredrickson & Roberts (1997). With articles like these, Feoktistova conveys her readers the idea that they should just be pleased with how they are and look and that also she herself is sometimes insecure about her appearance, but that this doesn’t mean drastic measures have to be taken. The comment from Anna, but also all other comments that praise Feoktistova’s make-upless face shown on the world wide web without shame, shows that Beautygloss and beauty blogs in general do not bring forth the idea that a woman has to look perfect all the time and that perfection is also not something to solely strive for. Martha (31/03/2014 at 09.08) points out that every Sunday when Feoktisova reviews a facial mask, she can be seen in a movie without wearing make-up while also telling personal stories. By visiting beauty blogs, Martha did, however, start to see beauty from another perspective. “… by seeing a glam version of Mascha and a normal Mascha [ed. without make-up], I got more conscious about the feasibility of beauty”. This awareness, that mediated perfection is not self-evident or even non-existing, shows that beauty blogs can contribute to a more genuine image of female beauty. “…no desirous images 81 of women as objects of lust and often no make-up. How harsh and mean it might sound, I secretly like it when my favorite beauty blogger has a huge pimple too, just like I sometimes do”, as said by commenter Madelief (31/03/2014 at 23.16). No single commenter had anything negative to say about Feoktistova sometimes not wearing any make-up at all. The 26 commenters mentioning the plain face appreciation showed that they feel very comfortable seeing make-upless faces. They identify themselves with Feoktistova and are lead away from the idea that beauty is something to strive for at all times.

6.5 Body image

Three girls shared a personal story within their comments about how beauty blogs affected their self image. Nienke (01/04/2014 at 09.59) tells she appreciates that Beautygloss doesn’t elaborate on weight loss in blog posts or video’s. “I’m recovering from anorexia and posts like those could stimulate a fallback <…> luckily I feel very comfortable here [ed. on Beautygloss]”. Also Maartje (01/04/2014 at 00.44) shares a story on an eating disorder that one of her friends suffered from. “It made me so furious and sad and it made me feel so powerless. Every day I saw my sweet, happy friend changing into just bones and skin. And WHY? Why is thin and long the ideal?”. She states that beauty bloggers (both masculine(!) and feminine) serve as an example for their readers “by sometimes stating that make-up isn’t everything and by showing themselves without make-up too”. Here mediated ideals on female body images are linked with make-up usage, showing the powerful effect faces without make-up might have. As observed before, just a small amount of posts and video’s actually show beauty bloggers fully neutral, but the huge amount of commenters mentioning this feature of Dutch beauty blogs do show that this aspect is considered to be very important. Maartje doesn’t explain how beauty blogs have helped her friend to conquer her eating disorder, yet, she does explain that beauty blogs go against mainstream mediated female beauty in which images of lust and perfection can often be traced back. Girls suffering from eating disorders can through beauty blogs be introduced to more realistic bodily shapes than the ones to be seen in magazines or advertisements. Besides two comments about eating disorders, one other comment rather elaborated about an opposite problem. Denice (31/03/2014 at 12.24) starts off her story by stating she normally never replies to blog posts, but that she felt like casting her voice on this particular topic. “Within a few years I gained 10 kilograms, not being very fat now, but I had my difficulties to accept this new figure <…> I got a bit depressed by this since I’m quite keen on my looks”. The discovery of Beautygloss made her negative thoughts disappear. “I regained inspiration because of her [ed. Feoktistova], considered make-up fun again and slowly but steady started to feel satisfied with myself again”, as said by Denice. She thus shows what a positive effect Beautygloss had and still has on

82 her renewed body size, showing in return that Feoktistova doesn’t convey her readers the idea that they have to look like skinny models, but that self love coming forth from self acceptance is more important. From the other perspective with regard to the comments about anorexia this same idea can be applied. Beautygloss also mirrors reality for the girls suffering from eating disorders, showing that they can feel good when wearing make-up and taking care of themselves, but that being thin is not mentioned as something to strive for. This is also pointed out by user Katmer (31/03/2014 at 08.09) stating “Beautygloss doesn’t strive for the unrealistic beauty ideal <…> Mascha for example participated in a fashion show in between models sized 34, while she herself has size 40, that’s a good image of reality”. Even though it can initially be expected that a beauty blog focuses solely on facial beauty, it can be seen here how much influence the depiction of Feoktistova’s entire body has on her readers, especially for the ones being vulnerable because of eating disorders. Whereas magazines and advertisements are criticized for conveying images of too thin models, Beautygloss represents bodily forms a lot of Dutch girls can identify with. Seeing images of Feoktisova thus generates the feeling that body size doesn’t matter, and that size 40 is not something to be ashamed of, as self acceptance is more important than fitting to an unachievable beauty ideal. This is beneficial for people being too skinny and suffering from anorexia and also for people being even slightly obese. Even though this particular vulnerable target group can benefit from beauty blogs, young readers are not always considered to be the right audience, as the upcoming sub chapter shows.

6.6 Vulnerable target group

Several commenters project their worries onto an abstract target group instead of on themselves. Especially young beauty blog readers are considered to be vulnerable readers as pointed out specifically by six Beautygloss readers that responded on the blog post How does Beautygloss contribute to the image of contemporary women in society? Jolien (31/03/2014 at 13.18) states in her comment that she remembers Feoktistova once mentioning that Dutch women could actually wear some more make-up. “I personally don’t care, I don’t wear foundation because I don’t want to, but for young girls newly exploring the make-up world they are maybe sold the idea that wearing make-up is a must”, as said by Jolien. Marit (31/03/2014 at 12.18) worries about girls under the age of fifteen, stating that blogs don’t really have a clear target group. “Because of this it could be that young girls wear more and heavier make- up solely because of the existence of beauty blogs”. She shares a personal story in which she tells that her parents didn’t like it when she wore smokey eyes or lipstick during Christmas, when she was twelve years old. “When I was that age people considered you as ‘slutty’ when wearing make-up (mascara and lip

83 gloss only), while now someone can be looked upon for wearing just a little or no make-up at all”, says Marit. In her eyes the amount of make-up usage fitting to a particular age has shifted to an even earlier age. Nevertheless, she sees beauty blogs as something positive, “giving you an idea how to use make-up properly and safe and how you can take good care of yourself”. Also Danique (31/03/2014 at 15.06) casts her worries on young girls and their make-up usage. “I’m afraid that girls at a very young age have the idea that wearing make-up and being perfect is a must”. She doesn’t connect this with the influence of beauty blogs. “… this is more to be blamed on peer pressure and other media like magazines and TV, where indeed often the image is conveyed of the perfect but unrealistic woman”, as continued by Danique. Both Svenja (31/03/2014 at 16.04) and Esmée (31/03/2014 at 18.13) wrote about their sorrows concerning young beauty blog readers, mentioning that this group is highly influential. “Magazines convey an unrealistic image towards young girls, which in my opinion can cause a lot of insecurity”, as said by Svenja. Sarah (31/03/2014 at 11.16) states that “I also think it’s such a pity that women are seen as objects of lust or as objects increasing sales, or just to be an eye catcher and that only afterwards a product itself becomes of interest”. She mainly criticizes advertisements here, “but when a young girl would see these things it could make her insecure”. She doesn’t consider beauty blogs to bring across the same idea, but comes up with something else that she sees as a potential danger. “I can imagine that someone with less financial freedom, comparing one’s self with someone [ed. beauty bloggers] can quickly start to feel insecure”, about which the next sub chapter will continue. Especially young girls are thus seen as a vulnerable target group. For them, beauty blogs could convey the idea that wearing make-up is a must and that blogs push girls to make-up usage at an early age. Still, commenters are more worried which effects other media have on young girls, stating that beauty blogs show an example of a more realistic woman than the abundance of unrealistic women as seen in magazines.

6.7 Purchase stimulation

With Sarah (31/03/2014 at 11.16) having mentioned the economical aspect linked to beauty blogs, it is notable that five other commenters point out that blog posts on Dutch beauty blogs might have an effect on spending behavior of blog readers. Inge (31/03/2014 at 23.04) says that “every once in a while by reading beauty blogs a certain inclination to buy appears by seeing all those beautiful products and treatments that are enjoyed”. User Luna (31/03/2014 at 16.02) confirms this point of view. “A beauty blogger certainly stimulates purchasing habits. ‘These are must haves!!!’”. Mirte (01/04/2014 at 17.11) elaborates on the word usage of ‘must haves’ even more critical. “I’m annoyed by how words are

84 sometimes used, like ‘must have’ and ‘this is a do and this is a don’t’. A lipstick with a velvet finish isn’t a must have at all, eating and drinking is a must have”. She calls it just a small issue that doesn’t come across often, yet “they indicate how important fashion and make-up are, and how you’re almost inferior when making a beauty blunder”, as explained by Mirte. The critique on the emphasis of purchases is tied with the money mechanism behind the beauty blogs. Without advertisements the three beauty bloggers Feoktistova, Schultz and Verbon, as elaborated upon earlier, wouldn’t be able to live from their blogs. Some of the commenters recognize that beauty blogs are a commercial platform, but that the messages are conveyed in a very personal way through which readers can more easily identify themselves with young bloggers sharing personal stories too than with models depicted in advertisements or magazines, in which their imperfections that could be a measure of identification are virtually erased by Photoshop. User Call it release! (31/03/2014 at 10.53) states that “we, as visitors, are (unconsciously) influenced by what is praised by beauty bloggers and what not. Also the commercials you see play an enormous role in this”. Lianne (31/03/2014 at 09.20) is afraid that mainly people not being too familiar with beauty blogs think that the bloggers convey a looked down upon image of women and that they’re just “money grubbers, eager for money only, earning tons with what they do”, even though she personally doesn’t think so. Only six commenters made a remark about the lucrative aspects of beauty blogs, stating to be aware of the money earned through advertisements. Beauty blogs can thus stimulate purchasing decisions because of the reviewed products being elaborated upon. As shown by the above comments, some Beautygloss readers criticize word usage that stimulates the idea that products should certainly be owned to feel better, and that beauty blog content can also be connected with advertisements as known from other media outlets, which were earlier found often to be objectifying. The difference here is that in both advertisements and beauty blogs sales play a role, but that the interest for cosmetics is generated by personal and realistic beauty blog content versus perfectionized mediated female beauty in advertisements.

6.8 Blogs vs. other media

In total 36 commenters specifically compare beauty blogs with other media. As the initial question How does Beautygloss contribute to the image of contemporary women in society? doesn’t guide the replies into a certain media direction it’s interesting to see the creativity how Beautyblog readers justify their answers and which particular media are mentioned to compare their point of view and come to a conclusion. Beauty blogs were compared with magazines seventeen times and fourteen times with advertisements and commercials. Four commenters talked about the differences between TV and beauty

85 blogs, two about other blogs, two about media in general and one about the music industry. In total 30 Beautygloss readers considered beauty blogs to generate a more positive image of female mediated beauty than other media outlets, whereas six commenters didn’t particularly agree on that. The comments most clearly summarizing the general thoughts and the ones deviating from the often returning point of views are listed below. Beautygloss in particular and Dutch beauty blogs in general were often mentioned together. Yet, American beauty bloggers were not to be considered carrying out the same ideals as Dutch ones. “American bloggers are often all perfect, wearing a lot of make-up in front of the camera from the start onwards <…> they are a bit like Photoshopped women as to be seen in some magazines”, as stated by Anna (31/03/2014 at 09.51). Emm (31/03/2014 at 07.40) mentions that contemporary beauty blogs cannot be compared with magazines from the past at all. “In my eyes the ideal shifted from the perfect housewife that desperately tries to please her husband, to a strong business woman that strengthens her personality through make-up and clothing”. Also E. (31/03/2014 at 18.21) mentions the difference between magazines and beauty blogs. She states that female targeted magazines used to elaborate upon pleasing men, but that nowadays it’s more targeted within the sexual sphere. “I rather read blogs than magazines because the latter don’t have much to offer”. As seen in the beauty blog content coverage, beauty blogs don’t elaborate on topics that have to do with sexuality, unless it’s about for example condoms in an educative way, as pointed out by Frances (31/03/2014 at 07.27). Reader E. furthermore points out she enjoys the readers interaction on blogs. When wanting to cast one’s voice it’s easily possible, something which is way more difficult with distant paper magazines. The idea that user Graceful (31/03/2014 at 16.30) points out is shared by many. “As such a lipstick and high heel feminist I consider beauty blogs to be better than glossy female magazines”. She says that when magazines would post an article concerning five kilograms of weight loss in one week, beauty bloggers would rather post something about their personal eating habits or meals”. She thinks that articles like these on beauty blogs aren’t meant to be taken over by readers, but rather serve as inspiration. “No doubt that the article in that magazine is harmful and plays with women’s insecurities”. Natascha (31/03/2014 at 10.08) elaborates on the visual content of magazines. “I just don’t understand why so much is erased with Photoshop. I recently saw before and after pictures of famous women and I was surprised to see they have cellulites too”. In general most of the commenters criticized media like magazines or commercials being different from beauty blogs. Furthermore, “I think that Beautygloss doesn’t strive to create a beauty ideal like music industries or magazines do”, as said by Zoey (31/03/2014 at 09.02). The main point often made about beauty blogs versus other media outlets is that it is highly valued by Beautygloss readers that beauty blogs don’t make use of Photoshop and in this way don’t convey a non-existing beauty ideal. Blogs are, therefore, considered to be more fair towards their 86 readers. They point out that beauty blogs are easier means to identify with and that they generate female confidence because of their realistic beauty approach in which not just perfection is highlighted. The personal approach on blogs that is not easily to be found within magazines that are written by several authors without them all sharing private stories, brings bloggers and their readers closer to identification and recognition. Above all, because the personal touch is about insecurities and other than mediated perfection, the beauty blogger creates awareness that imperfections simply adds up to one’s uniqueness. As pointed out before, Feoktistova serves as an example for many of her readers. With her openness about her apple-figure and slight hook nose, which she’s not trying to hide, she generates another idea of beauty that drifts away from the Photoshopped models in magazines, criticized within these analyzed comments. That still Feoktistova is seen as an example for many brings forth the appreciation for Feoktistova’s real being with the acceptance of her looks and her efforts as a business women. Six comments deviate from the ideas generated above. Natasja (05/04/2014 at 15.47) namely argues that too many people remain stuck with this topic. “I don’t understand why women always nag about this. Look around you, there are posters everywhere of good looking men too, also in magazines”. Bea (31/03/2014 at 09.07) mentions that Feoktistova plays a positive role in making her readers feel good, but that she (Bea) doesn’t understand the critique about advertisements. “I personally don’t mind advertisements being filled with Photoshopped women. I also don’t mind all the nicely bronzed bodies and six-packs of men in advertisements, habba habba ^_^”. Here it is shown that it thus not always are men that enjoy female bodies in media, but that bodily observation certainly also happens the other way around. Lotta (31/03/2014 at 09.06) even mentions that she can also enjoy female bodies in advertisements. “Women are nice to look at, also for hetero women like me! I’ve never been insecure about commercials or something alike”. This idea is described as the homosexual desire that parallels women’s heterosexual desire, generating interest to look at other women too, but without necessarily being lesbian (van Zoonen, 1994). Just like Natasja, Lotta doesn’t really like that women complain about their role within society. “I think it’s too much, this everlasting nagging that women are inferior to men. <…> Originally women are meant to be the ones looking after children and being responsible for household tasks. This is also the case with (most) animals”. Bente (31/03/2014 at 18.29) also doesn’t mind seeing perfectionized women in magazines. “I consider magazines to be a lot more appealing when a beautifully styled woman is depicted on the cover, even though you hardly see these kind of perfect women walking down the streets. Yes, I understand Photoshop”. Even though other commenters have pointed out valuing that Feoktistova isn’t ashamed of her size 40, Bente doesn’t really see the point of conveying female body images with realistic sizes. “I think it’s nonsense when people say that women with full figures have to appear on covers too”. She goes against the often heard critiques that magazines 87 and advertisements only convey images of too skinny women, helped with the use of Photoshop. “I almost never see too skinny women in media. Being slim is something normal, something a lot more people would be if they’d just eat more healthy”, as said by Bente. She is, however, positive about Beautygloss, stating she can identify herself with Feoktistova because of the personal tone of her blog. “I don’t feel the same with models because they’re only picked because of their beautiful appearance”. User Superwoman and loving it! (31/03/2014 at 10.31) tells in her comment that she’s 53 years old and satisfied with how she looks. “Beauty, youth and slimness just sells better [ed. in advertisements]. We can fight against this, but it doesn’t have any use at all”. She concludes her story by telling that women should start to finally accept each other. “Not the men cause insecurities with females, but the women themselves!”. In general beauty blogs are thus appreciated more when it comes to conveying reality. A majority of Beautygloss readers value blogs above other media. Nevertheless, a small amount of readers consider contemporary women to be acting too overdone on the idealized images in magazines and advertisements. Besides the comparison between beauty blogs and other media outlets, some commenters also elaborated more deeply upon female mediated beauty by addressing gender roles, as to be found within the following sub chapter.

6.9 Beauty ideal and gender roles

Apart from statements about beauty blogs and their effect on women, 26 commenters also elaborate on the existing beauty ideal in general, often accompanied by statements connected to gender roles. Only two out of these 26 comments don’t share the critique against the mediated beauty ideal of slim, beautiful women. Commenter Me (31/03/2014 at 10.48) for example mentions she’s probably a lot older that the average visitor of Beautygloss, but that “you should really not take it all too serious”. Nevertheless, there are a lot of Beautygloss readers sharing their ideas on beauty and gender. Esmée points out that “media emphasize the difference between sexes and the animalistic behavior of men towards women too much. If media keep on accentuating this, society won’t change”. Also Nienkeeee (31/03/2014 at 08.35) brings forth a statement that criticizes patriarchy. “We live in a men’s world in which women are subordinate to men and often seen as objects”. Graceful (31/03/2014 at 16.30) states that media focus too much on what men want, also accusing beauty blogs of this. She mentions an example concerning lipsticks, which are often marketed with the term kiss-proof. “You can kiss your partner without mess, in commercials ALWAYS a men, because that’s how hetero normative this world is. Because men don’t like lipstick on their lips and we, women, have to adjust to that”. Even though user

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Graceful mentions that beauty blogs also conform to male pleasing standards when it comes to marketing terms for lipsticks, other commenters rather state that Feoktistova conveys an opposite message. Both Femke (31/03/2014 at 11.02) and Lana (31/03/2014 at 18.51) state that they appreciate that because of the personal touch of Beautygloss, Feoktistova’s boyfriend is also regularly to be seen in written posts or video’s. “I think it’s valuable to see Gregor [ed. Feoktistova’s boyfriend] back on her blog; they have an equal relationship. Gregor respects Mascha and would never exercise authority over her”, as said by Lana. This stands in contrast with mainstream mediated femininity during the first wave of feminism, when women were not seen as sole individuals, capable of living an individual life without help of a husband. Unmarried women were, therefore, seen as incomplete and to have failed (Kool-Smit, 1967). Feoktistova is financially independent as well as unmarried, and as her readers confirm, she has an equal relationship with her boyfriend too. Throughout three waves of feminism a lot has thus changed, yet, by it being specifically mentioned by beauty blog readers, it can be noted that equality for long hasn’t been self- evident. Even though appreciation in gender relations is shown, Yumi (31/03/2014 at 11.19) isn’t fully satisfied about the share of male and female targeted media. “Men can choose out of a wider scope of special interest magazines or websites and women (for example on Youtube) only have the beauty world as their domain”. Sarah (31/03/2014 at 11.16) states that she does consider women nowadays very strong, which could be an effect of blogs like Beautygloss, but that “the way that female emancipation is set in force evaluated different from how women would have truly wanted it”. She thus thinks that emancipation through for example make-up usage is maybe not exactly what really equalizes men and women. This is also what was highlighted by Levy (2005) and about which no clear consensus exist. By some, make-up is seen as something empowering, which is a notable feature of the ideas of lipstick feminists. Yet, others think that cosmetics usage is still a means of subordination towards men with the idea to please their senses. Janet (31/03/2014 at 08.39), however, doesn’t think that Beautygloss conveys a non-achievable beauty image. “Beautygloss doesn’t imply how ‘the woman’ should look like, but more that every woman is unique and looks different”. Whereas the beauty ideal is criticized of not representing realistic images of female beauty, concerns are spoken out against societal patterns that following many blog readers still represent patriarchy. Beautygloss and beauty blogs in general are not pointed at in conveying this very same idea, rather bringing forth the opposite. “We sometimes clamp onto this beauty ideal massively, but this ideal isn’t to be found back on Beautygloss in my opinion. It’s honest and real!”, as concluded by Benay Veneese (31/03/2014 at 07.26). All in all, the representation of mediated beauty is criticized by pointing out patriarchy, causing statements on societal male domination. The majority of respondents consider media in general to still focus on men’s desires, but that on the other hand, considering beauty blogs, the fruits of feminism can be 89 seen through the equal relationship between Feoktistova and her boyfriend. Yet, again the majority of commenters agree that Beautygloss doesn’t harm contemporary women in society because of their emphasis on reality and uniqueness. Looking back on all sub chapters concerning readers perceptions, beauty blogs stand out from other media outlets because of their personal tone, being considered realistic and not stimulating an idealized image of female beauty. Whereas the overall attitude towards beauty blogs and beauty bloggers was positive, several critical notes were brought forth on excessive luxury and the influence of commercialization. The conclusions formulated on the upcoming page eventually answer the scientific research problem.

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CONCLUSIONS

The scientific research problem being solved in this research is how female beauty is mediated within the Dutch beauty blogosphere and if beauty blog readers are being imposed to sexual objectification. Whereas sexual objectification was previously linked to various media outlets, this research is a step towards uniting newly emerging and highly popular Dutch beauty blogs with the concept of sexual objectification. 1. Sexual objectification is the emphasis on female bodily features without the inner characteristics or intelligence of women taken into account, through which women function as a sexual object of desire. Consequences of sexual objectification are anxiety, self objectification and female competitiveness and show to negatively affect women. Female mediated beauty that is sexually objectifying depict slim, scantily clad, make-up wearing, pretty women, conveying a prurient beauty ideal being unattainable, reinforced through Photoshop. The owners of the three ethnographically researched Dutch beauty blogs do not fit to this image themselves, as they are not model-slim, elaborate within their blogs on comfortable clothing without specifically emphasizing female bodily features, and convey recommendations, creative/educational messages and visual material on make-up products without using Photoshop for any facial or bodily adjustments. Beauty bloggers do not bring forth images intentionally generating male gaze that can be recognized through mediated objectification criteria. 2. Beauty perceptions differ culturally as esthetic preferences vary. The Western beauty ideal is dominated by images of overperfectionized women, inspired by pornography and with thus an emphasis on female sexuality. Make-up is an essential feature in the establishment of prurient images, but used within beauty blogs as a means of a woman’s own empowering benefit. 3. Throughout three waves of feminism, mainstream female mediation in magazines and advertisements shifted from household dominated and nurturing characteristics for one’s husband and children to the emphasis upon a female’s appearance that evolved into hyperreality, conveying an unattainable beauty ideal. Whereas throughout all three waves of feminism characteristics of female objectification could be found, Dutch beauty blogs function against the historically present idea of wearing make-up to please others, as well as against the present and future hyperreal mediation of female beauty. Beauty blogs are platforms for women where posts on reviewed beauty products play an important role within purchase decisions and where the focus lies on an educational touch of make-up usage. Creativity comes together with self confidence and powerful inner femininity that doesn’t need to be and also isn’t linked with desire and lust in order to convey a unique identity.

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4. The three largest Dutch beauty blogs, Beautygloss, Misslipgloss and Beautylab mediate reviews concerning make-up, personal picture diaries and food and fashion posts. Beauty blogs generate realistic, identifiable content. As none of the sexual objectification tests could be implemented upon beauty blog content accurately, Dutch beauty blogs showed to mediate female beauty in a different way than magazines and advertisements that are often found to sexually objectify. The present, but rather invisible influence of commercial advertising, however, penetrates the beauty blogosphere because of lucrative advertisements needed to generate a bloggers’ income, but through a low threshold. Sponsored content, claimed by the bloggers to be reviewed objectively, expose beauty blog readers to beauty products else wise connected to mediated perfection. Whereas Dutch beauty blogs emphasize on self worth and the conveyance of realistic beauty, idealization coming forth from mediated female beauty linked with sexual objectification cannot be fully opposed. 5. Beauty blogs stand out from other media outlets because of their personal tone, showing not too skinny bodies and bloggers without make-up too. Dutch beauty blogs are perceived by their readers as more trustworthy than magazines and advertisements in conveying an achievable and neutral ideal on female beauty. Nevertheless, beauty bloggers are immersed with an unrealistic amount of material beauty possessions and beauty treatments. Bloggers don’t conform to just an average girl; stimulate young girls to use make-up from an early age onwards and create norms on amongst others hair removal and bronzing that mirror the mediated beauty ideal, supporting idealization as to be found in objectification. Whereas beauty blog content on first hand opposes objectification because of a lack of sexualized and idealized images, the influence of advertisements supports the construction of the objectified ideal, but through an alternative, low threshold. The research results of this thesis are advised to be applied onto Dutch beauty blogs in order to minimize the linkage between the Dutch beauty blogosphere and sexual objectification. Beauty bloggers are recommended to be fully transparent about all products and treatments they receive for free. Also, commercials elaborating on specific low calorie intakes should best be avoided, because of their potential danger on obsessive weight monitoring. More attention should be dedicated to young beauty blog readers, leading normative thoughts away on young girls being expected to wear make-up. The unique personal and interactive character of beauty blogs stand out from other media outlets and should be maintained, regarding especially the conveyance of make-upless faces, realistic body proportions that minimize the dangers of eating disorders and the general idea that there is more in life than make-up and that cosmetics are just minor tools for a woman’s own empowerment. Throughout this research, several ideas on topics for further research appeared. Firstly, a more thorough content analysis on beauty blogs could clarify the degree of personality within Dutch beauty 92 blogs. Secondly, it could be researched whether make-up usage is of any influence on the facial expressions of depicted beauty bloggers, connected to the sense of confidence. Thirdly, a comparative research between Dutch and American beauty blogs could detect any mutual resemblances and differences and contribute to a more complete understanding of Western beauty blogs and their mediation of female beauty.

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17. Dornbusch, S.M., Gross, R.T., Duncan, P.D., & Ritter, P.L. (1987). Stanford studies of adolescence using the national health examination survey. In R.M. Lerner & T.T. Foch (Eds.), Biological-psychosocial interactions in early adolescence (pp. 189-205). Hillsdale, NJ: Erlbaum. 18. Duncan, M.C. (1990). Sports photographs and sexual difference: Images of women and min in the 1984 and 1988 Olympic Games. Sociology of Sport Journal, 7, 22-43. 19. Fallon, A.E., & Rozin, P. (1985). Sex differences in perception of desirable body shape. Journal of Abnormal Psychology, 94, 102-105. 20. Ferguson, M. (1978). Imagery and ideology: The cover photographs of traditional women’s magazines. In G. Tuchman, A.K. Daniels, & J. Benet (Eds), Hearth and home: Images of women in the mass media (pp. 97-115). New York: Oxford University Press. 21. Fredrickson, B.L., Roberts, T. (1997). Objectification Theory: Toward Understanding Women’s Lived Experiences and Mental Health Risks. Psychology of Women Quarterly, 21, 173-206 22. Friedan, B. (1963). The Feminine Mystique. New York: W.W. Norton & Company. 23. Gardner, C.B. (1980). Passing by: Street remarks, address rights, and the urban female. Sociological Inquiry, 50, 328-356. 24. Goffman, E. (1979). Gender advertisements. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press. 25. Hall, J.A. (1984). Nonverbal sex differences: Communication accuracy and expressive style. Baltimore, MD: Johns Hopkins University Press. 26. Heatherton, T.F., Polivy, J., & Herman, C.P. (1989). Restraint and internal responsiveness: Effects of placebo manipulations of hunger on eating. Journal of Abnormal Psychology, 98, 89-92 27. Hülsken, M. (2005). Fascinerend en veelzijdig : het vrouwentijdschrift als bron. Amsterdam: Persmuseum. 28. Itzin, C. (1992). Pornography: Women, Violence and Civil Liberties. Oxford: Oxford University Press. 29. Jacobson, M.B., & Popovich, P.M. (1983). Victim attractiveness and perceptions of responsibility in an ambiguous rape case. Psychology of Women Quarterly, 8, 100-104. 30. Jensen, K.B. (2002). A Handbook of Media and Communication Research: Quanlitative and quantitative methodologies. London and New York: Routledge. 31. Jensen, L. (2001). Bij Uitsluiting Voor De Vrouwelijke Sekse Geschikt. Hilversum: Uitgeverij Verloren. 32. Jones, D., Loring Brace, C., Jankowiak, W., Laland, N., Musselman, L. (1995). Sexual selection, physical attractiveness and facial neoteny. Cross cultural evidence and implications. Current Anthropology, 37, Chicago: The University of Chicago Press. 95

33. Kaschak, E. (1992). Engendered lives: A new psychology of women’s experience. New York: Basic Books. 34. Katkin, E.S., Blascovich, J., & Goldband, S. (1981). Empirical assessment of visceral self- perception: Individual and sex differences in the acquisition of heartbeat discrimination. Journal of Personality and Social Psychology, 40, 1095-1101. 35. Kool-Smit, J.E. (1967). Het onbehagen van de vrouw. Amsterdam: De Bezige Bij 36. Kuhn, A. (1985). The power of the image: Essays on respresentation and sexuality. London: Routledge & Kegan Paul. 37. Lasswell, H.D. (1948). Power and Personality. New York, NY. 38. Lerner, H.G. (1993). The dance of deception: Pretending and truth-telling in women’s lives. New York: Harper Collins. 39. Levy, A. (2005). Female Chauvinist Pigs: women and the rise of raunch culture. US: Free Press. 40. Mill, J. S. (1869- ed. 2005). The subjection of women (Morales, M.H., ed). London: Longmans, Green, Reader & Dyer. 41. Mulhern, R., Fieldman, G., Hussey, T., Lévêque, J., Pineau, P. (2003). Do cosmetics enhance female Caucasian facial attractiveness? International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 199-205 42. Peach, L.J. (ed.). (1988). Women in Culture: A Women’s Studies Anthology. New Jersey: Blackwell Publishers. 43. Russell, R. (1979). Why cosmetics work. The science of social vision. Oxford University Press. 44. Silberstein, L.R., Striegel-Moore, R., & Rodin, J. (1987). Feeling fat: A woman’s shame. In H.B. Lewis (Ed.), The role of shame in symptom formation (pp. 89-108). Hillsdale, NJ: Erlbaum. 45. Sommers-Flanagan, R., Sommers-Flanagan, J. & Davis, B. (1993). What’s happening on music television? A gender-role content analysis. Sex Roles, 28, 745-753 46. Stoltenbegr, J. (1989) Refusing to be a man. New York: Penguin. 47. Unger, R.K. (1979). Female and male. New York: Harper and Row. 48. van Hove, G. (2004). De verleiding van de vrouw: De marketing van vrouwentijdschriften in de 21e eeuw. Persmuseum: vrouwentijdschriften.nl. 49. van Zoonen, L. (1994). Feminist Media Studies. London: SAGE Publications 50. Walter, N. (2010) Living Dolls: Warum junge Frauen heute lieber schön als schlau sein wollen. London: Little, Brown Book Group Ltd. 51. Weskott, M. (1986). The feminist legacy of Karen Horney. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press. P. 95

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52. Wolf, N. (1991) The Beauty Myth: How Images Of Beauty Are Used Against Women. New York: HarperCollins 53. Wollstonecraft, M. (1792). A vindication of the Rights of Woman. Boston: Peter Edes for Thomas and Andrews. 54. Wooley, O.W., Wooley, S.C., & Dyrenforth, S.R. (1979). Obesity and women: A neglected feminist topic. Women’s Studies International Quarterly, 2, 81-92. 55. Wooley, S.C., & Wooley, O.W. (1980). Eating disorders: Anorexia and obesity. In A.M. Brodsky & R. Hare-Mustin (Eds.), Women and psychotherapy (pp.135-158). New York Guilford.

Audiovisual data

1. Bergman, S. (Producer). (2007). Beperkt Houdbaar [Documentary]. Netherlands/United States: VPRO Television, Viewpoint Productions. Retrieved February 15, 2014, from http://www.beperkthoudbaar.info/docu/ 2. Heldman, C. (2013, January 20). The Sexy Lie: Caroline Heldman at TEDxYouth@SanDiego. Retrieved February 20, 2014, from: http://youtu.be/kMS4VJKekW8

Online resources

1. Bakker, P. (2013). Tijdschriftcijfers. Retrieved April 13, 2014, from http://tijdschriftcijfers.tumblr.com/post/22832665921/betaalde-oplage-libelle-gaat-in-12-jaar-van 2. Boogert, E. (2013). Gemiddelde internettijd: 96 minuten per dag. Retrieved April 13, 2014, from http://www.emerce.nl/nieuws/gemiddel-internettijd-96-minuten-per-dag 3. Forte, M.C. (2011). Welcome to Media Ethnographies. Retrieved April 2, 2014, from: http://mediaethnographies.wordpress.com/ 4. Hijstek, B.L.M. (unkown). Arbeid van vrouwen tijdens de Eerste Wereldoorlog. Hijstek tekst en research. Retreived March 1, 2014, from http://www.hijstek.nl/site/node/79 5. Stemrecht voor vrouwen in Nederland. (n.d.) From Vereniging voor Vrouwengeschiedenis. Retrieved February 28, 2014, from http://www.gendergeschiedenis.nl/nl/dossiers/stemrechtvoorvrouwen.html 6. ten Broeke, A. (2013). We zijn in een halve eeuw feminisme niet veelopgeschoten. Retrieved March 18, 2014 from http://www.trouw.nl/tr/nl/4328/Opinie/article/detail/3447202/2013/05/26/We-zijn-in-een-halve- eeuw-feminisme-niet-veel-opgeschoten.dhtml 97

Beauty blogs

1. Beautygloss by Mascha Feoktistova – www.beautygloss.nl 2. Misslipgloss by Cynthia Schultz – www.misslipgloss.nl 3. Beautylab by Serena Verbon – www.beautylab.nl 4. ‘How does Beautygloss contribute to the image of contemporary women in society?’ – http://www.beautygloss.nl/2014/03/31/hoe-draagt-beautygloss-bij-aan-het-beeld-van- hedendaagse-vrouwen-in-de-maatschappij/

Picture sources

Image 1. Examples of 50s advertisements (retrieved: 06/05/2014) http://s565.photobucket.com/user/charlieface123/media/vintage-hoover-ad.jpg.html http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/goatbasher/38546/6718/6718_640.jpg http://www.prospectmx.com/15-of-the-most-sexist-marketing-campaigns-from-the-past/ Image 2. Examples of everyday life pictures from various diaries of all three bloggers (retrieved: 07/05/2014)

Various diary posts from January and February 2014

Image 3. Examples of Mascha Feoktistova, Cynthia Schultz and Serena Verbon without wearing any make-up (retrieved: 29/03/2014) http://www.beautygloss.nl/2014/01/23/geen-make-up-weinig-make-up-en-veel-make-up/ http://www.misslipgloss.nl/mijn-dagelijkse-make-up-stap-voor-stap/ http://www.beautylab.nl/kim-kardashian-full-look/ Image 4. Pictures from a step by step eye make-up tutorial by Serena Verbon on Beautylab (retrieved: 29/03/2014) http://www.beautylab.nl/garden-eden-eyelook/

Image 5. Examples of advertisements depicting women with a dreamy look into the distance (retrieved: 15/04/2014) http://www.dhumor.com/2010/01/fotos-scarlett-johansson-para-dg/

98 http://rachelannrose.wordpress.com/2012/12/21/a-very-twisted-view-on-women-and-sex/dolce-gabbana- ad-sexist/ http://blogaboutaclass.wordpress.com/ http://theillusionists.org/2011/11/unilevers-lynx-attempts-damage-control/ http://www.missrepresentation.org/advertising/the-bared-midriff/ http://sheisnotathing.wordpress.com/ Image 6. Examples of Feoktistova looking into the distance (retrieved: 15/04/2014)

Various Beautygloss looks posts from January and February 2014

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

With the end of this thesis an end has come to five valuable years as a student and intern in Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. The Baltics left a permanent mark on my identity, turning me from a sensible teenager into a confident young woman. I learned that walking off the beaten track needs courage, but brings joy and strength.

With regard to the realization of this thesis, I would especially like to thank:

Dr. Kristina Juraitė, associate professor, for being my patient supervisor;

Ms. Mascha Feoktistova, owner of the most successful Dutch beauty blog, for her support and trust and publishing my article on www.beautygloss.nl;

All Beautygloss visitors, for taking their time to respectfully and intelligently reply on my article published on Beautygloss, generating 168 readers responses;

Dr. Inese Birbilaitė, Lecturer at the Department of Public Communications, for her useful remarks that lead to a general improvement of this thesis;

Mr. Mantas Jurgutis, VMU graduate, for translating the summary from English into Lithuanian.

Actually, I also want to thank myself for being such a disciplined, hard worker, without giving in on my Baltic explorations on foot, by bike and even with balloons, always carried out with a wholehearted smile.

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ANNEX I

Content beautygloss.nl – January and February 2014

Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday x x 01-01 02-01 03-01 04-01 05-01 1. Beautygloss 1. Beautygloss 1. Beautygloss 1. Beauty 1. Ask your vlog 62: getting vlog 63: New vlog 64: New tips when question (425)() ready for Berlin Year Berlin part Year Berlin having a 2. *Mask + (141)= 1 (256)= part 2 (567)= hangover chatting: first 2. Review of 2. 2. Vampire (422) time vlogging 2013 (208) *Beautyproducts make-up after Mint julep I’ve finished in tutorial (585)= (458) Dec. 2013 (136) 3. *Foodgloss recipe: coconut/pumpkin soup (50) 06-01 07-01 08-01 09-01 10-01 11-01 12-01 1. 2D or 1. *Vichy 1. *Rimmel 1. Where and 1. Cosmetics 1. Perfect 1. Ask your Not 2D by Dermablend Stay Matte how do you put storage box messy question (351)() Alexander correcting liquid mousse on your make- from Xenos fashionable 2. *Mask + Khokhlov compact crème foundation up? (431)() (177)/// hair (229)= chatting: H&M and foundation (146) (245) 2. *NYX 2. Clean seaweed (499) Valeriya 2. *Lancome 2. *Ivana’s Smokey Look beautystash: 3. *Foodgloss: Kutsan L’Asbsolu healthy lifestyle One Night in upper part Gregor’s (221) Velours intense tips (545) Morocco (201) make-up brownies (78) 2. Mascha’s lip color velvet drawer (244) diary matte finish (267) January 2014 part 1 (264)= 13-01 14-01 15-01 16-01 17-01 18-01 19-01 1. Face of 1. *Dr. van der 1. *Clinique All 1. Mono eye 1. Face of the 1. Seven 1. Ask your the day: Hoog CC cream About Shadow shadow colors – day: book cover DIY tricks question (422)() oldskool (152) Neautral do you use them? shoot (202)= with glitter 2. *Mask + (226)= 2. Beautygloss Territory (162) (191)() 2. Trends nail polish chatting: nose 2. Mascha’s party 2014: third 2. Making a 2. *Review: CHI spring/summer (270)/// strip with diary update: Rimmel vision board ORBIT and ARC 2014 (143)# questions (191) January and Sally Hansen (152)/// curling tongs 3. *Foodgloss 2014 part 2 are subsponsor (159) recipe: courgette (412)= (167) sticks + onion dip (46) 20-01 21-01 22-01 23-01 24-01 25-01 26-01 1. *Healthy 1. When do you 1. *Bourjois 1. No make-up, a 1. Gloss Talk: 1. Uncut 1. Ask your chocolate wear red lipstick? Color Edition little make-up would you stop routine: question – with mousse (270)() 24H cream to and much make- wearing a make-up Tom (151)() recipe (187) 2. Action shoplog powder up (246)= fragrance for and hair: in 2. *Mask + 2. Mascha’s with Gregor: eyeshadow 2. *L’Oreal Nude your boyfriend? 20 minutes chatting: apirine diary beanies and more (138) Magique Eau de (343)# (217)= mask against January (195)# 2. ASMR – teint foundation 2. *NYC City silicone drama 2014 part 3 foundations (167) Proof Twistable (305) (266)= (221) Intense Lip 3. *Foodgloss Color (201) recipe: pasta with salmon (42) 27-01 28-01 29-01 30-01 31-01 01-02 02-02 1. Brush 1. B academy on 1. Tip: 1. *Hooked and 1. Review: Ikea 1. Tutorial: 1. Ask your101 wash the set: my hair concentration forgotten January scented candles Messy question (290)() confession creations (258) music (208) 2014 (158) (146)/// Brigitte 2. *Mask + (325) 2. Foto tutorial 2. Shoplog: 2. *Perfect 2. I suffer from Bardot tail chatting: airplane 2. Mascha’s eye look color Boohoo order palette tag (140) PCOS (125)= stories (358) diary combining (208)= (286)# (Polycystic 3. *Foodgloss: January ovary Chicken nuggets 2014 part 4 syndrome) (+ meet the (227)= (1114) boyfriend!) (154) 03-02 04-02 05-02 06-02 07-02 08-02 09-02 1. Face of 1. Win: Boohoo 1. Beautygloss 1. *See by Cloé 1. *Lancaster 1. 1. Ask your the day: Izzy velvet boots party 2014: Eau de Parfum bronzing Valentine’s question (345)() ‘other’ in size 41 (1222)# Andrélon (106) beauty for face day make- 2. *Mask + crease with 2. Vlog: To Styling is main 2. Vlog: To and body (162) up tutorial chatting: nose purple lips Dubai with sponsor! + in Dubai with 2. Vlog: To 2014 strip fail (181) (124)= Lancaster: part 1 search of Lancaster: part 3 Dubai with (307)= 3. *Foodgloss: 2. Mascha’s (156)= hostesses (187) (166)= Lancaster: part Champagne diary 2. Vlog: To 4 (161)= mousse for February Dubai with Valentine (51) 2014 part 1 Lancaster: part (283)= 2 (164)= 10-02 11-02 12-02 13-02 14-02 15-02 16-02 1. Ultimate 1. *Lush Love 1. Eight pairs of 1. *The perfect 1. *Undone by 1. How do 1. Ask your sale fantasy Locket Bath Steve Madden fragrances to give The Insiders – you quickly question (404)() game Ballistic (114) shoes for 80 as a present on Salon B (75) make a neat 2. *Mask + (175)() 2. Vlog: To euro’s (379)# Valentine’s Day 2. Last session bun (227)= chatting: powder 2. Mascha’s Dubai with 2. *Favorite (147) permanent mask Dr. van der diary Lancaster: part 5 beauty 2. *Review: make-up eye Hoog (344) February (103)= products: Urban Decay brows + lips? 3. *Foodgloss: 2014 part 2 January 2014 Naked 3 palette (452) Antillean cheese (329)= (168) (143) balls + quiche (35) 17-02 18-02 19-02 20-02 21-02 22-02 23-02 1. I finished 1. Walking on 1. I’m hooked 1. Beautygloss 1. *Catrice 1. Trend 1. Ask your B high heels when on shaping party powered by Absolute Eye look spring question – with Academy’s being tall (416)# (381)= Andrélon Styling Color Quattro 2014: rosé Tom (135)() On The Set 2. 2. Time (108) 100 F’rosen gold make- 2. *Mask + level one! *Beautyproducts management 2. Shoplog with Yoghurt (149) up (186)= chatting: DIY (183) I’ve finished in with beauty Gregor: a.o. 2. I’ll for one oatmeal mask 2. Mascha’s Jan. 2014 (163) routines (152) cardigans (281)# time be (338) diary Grazia’s chief- 3. *Foodgloss: February editor (224) pita chips + white 2014 part 3 bean dip (31) (256)= 24-02 25-02 26-02 27-02 28-02 x x 1. *MAC 1. *Essence All 1. 1. My favorite 1. Beautygloss Oval 6 About Nude eye Beautygloss.nl magazines (129) friends brush shadow (132) has a new 2. *PCOS, sugar weekend (313) review 2. My toilet stash layout (731) free food, talk 2. *Favorite (130) tour (267) 2. *Cheap trick with Ralph beauty 2. Mascha’s to wax your eye Moorman (417) products: diary brows and February 2014 February upper lip (348) (197) part 4 (275)=

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Content misslipgloss.nl – January and February 2014

Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday x x 01-01 02-01 03-01 04-01 05-01 1. 2014! Let’s 1. *Alessandro 1. Video: 1. Tip: Ebay bag 1. *Yves Rocher do this! (134) Nail Graffiti Ask me in bag for 3 Smoothing 2. *Essence (94) anything: euro’s (141) # Program – hair Match 3 2. *Lancome personal 2. Gadget care without Cover Cream L’Absolu questions review: silicones and SLS Concealer Velours answered Panasonic (94) (105) Lipsticks (99) (88) () Lumix GM1 2. 2. Looking (126) *Misslipgloss.nl nice: are you in 2013 – what really doing was popular? that for (112) yourself? (156) # 06-01 07-01 08-01 09-01 10-01 11-01 12-01 1. Sneak Peek 1. Plog 6 1. Plog 7 1. Plog 8 1. Plog 9 1. Plog 10 1. Plog 11 January January part 1 January January 2014 January 2014 January January 2014 2014 (126) = (173) = 2014 (229) (210) = (131) = 2014 (170) = (129) = 2. Plog 12 January 2. Video: Oh my = 2. 2. *Video: My 2. *Beauty 2. *Optimel Joy 2014 (144) = gloss (137) 2. *De *Philosophy seven favorite products that Measure – More Tuinen Hope In a Jar fragrances of don’t interest enjoyment in scrub crème Night (116) 2013 (99) me so much 2014 (41) coconut (71) (196) 3. * I love: Anastasia brow powder (107) 13-01 14-01 15-01 16-01 17-01 18-01 19-01 1. Plogging: you 1. *Guerlain 1. *NYC City 1. *OPI push 1. *Benefit 1. Results 1. *Deborah may choose (292) meteorites Proof and shove – Stay questionnaire Milano BB Cream () blossom Twistable Gwen Stefani Flaweless 2014 (163) 5 in 1 (94) 2. Video: Ispray spring 2014 Intense Lip collection (124) 15-hour 2. Fitbit Flex: spraytan at (147) Color (109) 2. Video: primer (115) track your health Sundays – review 2. *Hema 2. Choose: reviewing five 2. *Ten type (86) (90) caring pale or too books (86) of products I topcoat (95) orange? can’t live (279)() without (115) 20-01 21-01 22-01 23-01 24-01 25-01 26-01 1. Sneak Peek 1. *Lush 1. *Chanel n. 1. Nike Airs: 1. * Garnier 1. *Givenchy 1. *Layla Mirror January part 2 Valentine 5 Twist and how to combine Micellair Over Rose Effect nail polish (147) = 2014 (113) Spray eau de them? (208) # cleansing spring 2014 (93) (114) 2. Video: Favorite parfum (91) 2. At the water (vs. 2. Win a Jumpin make-up of 2013 2. Zoeva hairdresser: Bioderma) Onepiece with a (96) makeup tote Louis (163) value of 129 zoe bag (94) Amundaray 2. *Batiste euro’s (150) # # (93) for brunettes! (118) 27-01 28-01 29-01 30-01 31-01 01-02 02-02 1. Sneak Peek 1. Plog 27 1. Plog 28 1. Plog 29 1. Plog 30 1. Plog 31 1. Plog 1 February January part 3 January January 2014 January 2014 january 2014 January 2014 2014 (186) = (135) = 2014 (173) (180) = (125) = (183) = (222) = 2. Video: H&M = 2. *New: 2. Video: DIY 2. *Clinique 2. *Kruidvat shoplog (120) # 2. *CHI Zoeva brush scrub with 12 shades of hair repair oil & 103

digital clutches + Florida beige all Kruidvat hair ceramic eight new grapefruit (41) about repair total care spring iron loose brushes /// shadow 8- (107) (104) (83) pan palette (90) 03-02 04-02 05-02 06-02 07-02 08-02 09-02 1. Plog 2 February 1. *My 1. *Sleek 1. Dreaming 1. *Lubex 1. 1. Happy Period 2014 (142) = favorite Garden of about: home anti-age Experimenting Box (174) 2. cuticle care Eden palette office (137) /// review: yourself at home *Beautyproducts (118) (113) 2. Video: Oh cleaning or leaving it up I’ve finished in 2. *Le Rouge my gloss (73) milk, tonic, to the pro’s? Jan. 2014 (62) Chanel day light, (158) () Collection night light & 2. *My ten Variation serum (63) favorite healthy (97) 2. My daily dishes (128) make-up step by step (103) = 3. 1+1 free ticket for bff event (37) 10-02 11-02 12-02 13-02 14-02 15-02 16-02 1. *Polish 1. Sneak 1. *Murad 1. *Wet ‘n 1. *Essence 1. *Garnier 1. ‘Photoshopping Alcoholic brain Peek Essential-C Wild color icon all about (soothing) eye real women into freeze, sunset blvd February Day Moisture eye shadow nude eye cleansing lotions cover models’ & new year’s eve 2014 part 1 SPF 30 (87) trio’s (100) shadow + (62) video# (198) (92) (126) = 2. *Nivea 2. Video: win a Essence big 2. Tag: Let’s get 2. *Nars Orgasm Sensitive 28 HP bright eyes personal (113) (132) day challenge Chromebook highlight it – first with a value of nude (126) impression 329 euro’s 2. New in: (129) (138) smart little bag XL by Lou Lou (142) # 17-02 18-02 19-02 20-02 21-02 22-02 23-02 1. Sneak Peek 1. *L’oréal 1. *Collistar 1. *Catrice 1. Win! 2x 1. *The Body 1. Weekend: February part 2 Color Riche Ti Amo Italia prime and fine Opi My Case Shop blueberry Dolling one’s self (124) = nails spring (107) anti-redness Couture for special edition up or ‘I don’t do 2. *Breakfast ideas 2014 (111) 2. *Sleek base + Catrice iPhone 4 + body butter & anything at all’ with Optimel Celestial prime and fine iPhone 5 body scrub (94) (148) # Greek Style + win! Palette (105) mattifying (60) # 2. Commercial (73) powder 2. *Essie code social 3. *Video: waterproof (88) Hide & Go media + how I Favorite hair 2. *Video: Chic spring deal with it products review: Estée 2014 (83) (173) January/February Lauder Pure 2014 (104) Color Envy Lipstick (120) 24-02 25-02 26-02 27-02 28-02 x x 1. Sneak Peek 1. Plog 24 1. Plog 25 1. Plog 26 1. Plog 27 February 2014 part February February February 2014 February 3 (112) = 2014 (173) 2014 (130) = (196) = 2014 (122) = 2. *Video: Beauty = 2. *Hannah 2. Video: 2. *Chanel products I’ve 2. What is Enzymatic beauty products les 4 ombres finished in Feb. your home Skin Peeling in my shower 2014 eyes 2014 (66) feeling? Tell (63) February 2014 collection it & receive (56) (111) 104

Page (toilet paper) for free! (33) () 3. In my ‘everyday box’ February 2014 (110)

Content beautylab.nl – January and February 2014

Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday x x 01-01 02-01 03-01 04-01 05-01 1. Happy new year! 1. Allantoin 1. DIY ice 1. *My make- 1. Instalab part 1 (43) (50)^ facial (70) /// up must haves – 2014 (76) = 2. Oh my gadget! 2. Bizarre 2. Outfits of (75) 2. Shoplog (89) beauty: vodka the previous 2. Let it snow! Primark Essen 3. Shoe stash for your hair year (173) # (162) (101) # video# (102) (91) 3. Aloe vera 3. *Michael (59) ^ Kors fragrances (by Nena) (48) 06-01 07-01 08-01 09-01 10-01 11-01 12-01 1. New 1. *Tea from the 1. Brides make-up 1. Grape seed 1. *Guerlain 1. *Chanel 1. Instalab part 2 week: no Tea Bar (76) tips (104)= oil, rice oil and Bubble Blush spring – 2014 (92) = yoga and 2. *High tea 2. Instagram tag! walnut oil (85)^ (76) collection 2. *Mini ‘USA no extra recipes (68) (69) 2. *Nena’s 2. Bad ass 2014 (87) inspired’ sweet article beauty favorites (by Angel) 2. Help your snacks (104) (165) (by Nena) (64) (187) winter boots 2. through the Shadow winter (111) # rose eye look (79)= 13-01 14-01 15-01 16-01 17-01 18-01 19-01 1. New 1. *Lush 1. Eye liner 1. *OPI Gwen 1. DIY tip: 1. *Action 1. Instalab part 3 week: Valentine 2014 troubleshooting Stefani Hema fake lashes – 2014 (87) = stand up (80) (89) = collection (108) cupboard (100) 2. Free fresh for 2. *MAC oval 6 2. *Kitchen 2. Movies part V frame (139) 2. *Bobbi Lush masks yourself brush (96) lifehacks (78) (by Nena) (89) /// Brown (112) (99) 2. Bas ass Shimmer 2. part 2 (by Bricks (94) Pinkerbell Angel) (177) eye look (74)= 20-01 21-01 22-02 23-01 24-01 25-01 26-01 1. New 1. *Laquester 1. Hema storage 1. *Clinique 12 1. DIY 1. *Guerlain 1. Instalab part 4 week: on polish (115) boxes (133) /// shades of beige whipped eyebrow kit – 2014 (74) = TV and 2. *Playboy (105) body butter (76) 2. *The most finally Ultimates eyes 2. *L’oréal Paris (89) /// tasty cinnamon started to palette from – Miss Manga 2. Just rolls (124) exercise Action (99) mascara’s (by another day (143) Nena) (63) at the office 2. (by Angel) *Guerlain (82) 105 spring look 2014 (72) 27-01 28-01 29-01 30-01 31-01 01-02 02-02 1. New 1. *Lush 1. *Essie Encrusted 1. It’s a tartan 1. Chanel 1. *Sleek 1. Instalab part 5 week: Catastrophe Treasures business (91) # flower vase Garden of -2014 (63) = guilty Cosmetic (84) collection (80) 2. *Dior New (148) /// Eden palette 2. Valentine’s pleasures 2. *Estee Lauder 2. Boys about… Look spring 2. Disaster (64) look with the (167) X Derek Lam fashion trends (95) 2014 (by Nena) dates part 2 2. *NYC Naked 3 palette 2. Garden (64) # (67) (by Angel) Twistable (65) = of Eden (107) intense lip eye look color (90) (104)= 03-02 04-02 05-02 06-02 07-02 08-02 09-02 1. New 1. *Roberto 1. *Sleek True 1. *Givenchy 1. *Nail art 1. *Urban 1. Instalab part 6 week: day Cavalli Exotica Colour lipsticks Over Rose 2014 tape (95) Decay Naked – 2014 (114) = dreaming fragrance (54) (120) (70) 2. Mouth 3 (103) 2. Vlog: Ibis (59) 2. Foodio update 2. Herringbone 2. *Sleek Blush open (by 2. New in: & hotel, Primark 2. Trend (64) pattern hairdo’s by 3 palettes (by Angel) (104) other stories Zaandam, High spotting 3. *Rimmel (93) = Nena) (90) (72) # tea & photoshoot part 1 Sweetie Crush (55) = (68) # nail polish (103) 3. ‘Spring is coming’ eye look (99)= 10-02 11-02 12-02 13-02 14-02 15-02 16-02 1. New 1. Primark 1. *Hema eyebrow 1. *Carmen 1. Flowers in 1. Coco & 1. Instalab part 7 week: I bootilicious kit (94) straight to go your interior Clarence – 2014 (101) = am an (203) # 2. Mega Primark (70) (92) /// (107) 2. *Pandan ENFP 2. *The Beauty Shoplog – February 2. *Collistar – 2. My six 2. *Essence Chiffon spongy (121) Bakery valentine 2014 (114) # Ti amo Italia (by months of Blush Up! cake (84) 2. gift box (75) Nena) (60) fame (by Review (93) Papillon Angel) (132) eye look (66)= 17-02 18-02 19-02 20-02 21-02 22-02 23-02 1. New 1. Vajazzle 1. *Catrice 1. *Givenchy 1. DIY chain 1. New in: 1. Instalab part 8 week: treatment at Eyebrow set (196) Ombre Couture jewelry (77) Sugar Snake – 2014 (105) = from 10 Delete (153) 2. *My favorite (59) /// by Loulou 2. Kim to 1 (120) 2. Who’s got my budget make-up 2. 25 nice things 2. Cupid is an (103) # Kardashian full 2. Green killer heels? (91) (106) asshole (by 2. *Saffron look (114) = smokey (111) # Angel) (158) Matte eye eye look shadow (163)= palette (89) 3. *Vaseline Intensive Rescue (34) 24-02 25-02 26-02 27-02 28-02 x x 1. *New 1. *Elie Saab 1. *Giorgio Armani 1. *Make-up 1. Ikea hacks week: l’Eau Couture & spring collection Studio Durable (89) /// sandwich Versace Bright 2014 (61) Eye Shadow 2. Is it five obsession Crystal Absolu 2. Win 1000 euro’s Mousse (by o’clock (152) (63) of shopping money Nena) (119) already? (by 2. Gold & 2. Bizarre at C&A (254) # 2. *Quickest, Angel) (47) 106

Brow eye beauty: a warm 3. Quick solution easiest and look hygienic towel against moles (118) tastiest frosting (104)= (137) recipe (62) 3. *Spring colors from Catrice (123)

06 March 2014: comment data retrieved

(100) = Amount of comments

* = Reviews of products (new make-up collections, make-up tools (no accessories or scented candles!) and that month’s favorites movies and that month’s finished products movies (since they all contain mini reviews). Also things like ‘my favorite budget make-up’.

* = Food, how to make certain dishes

# = Beauty identification

# = Clothing and accessories

= = Diaries (video or pictures)

= = Looks (made with several make-up products or hairdo’s)

/// = DIY or interior

^ = Ingredients

() = Readers’ questions

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ANNEX II

Content percentages Beautygloss, Misslipgloss and Beautylab comprising January and February 2014.

Beautygloss

Diaries 14% 21% Reviews Looks Fashion 10% Food 29% Beauty identification 1% 9% Readers interaction

6% 10% Miscellaneous

Misslipgloss

Diaries 18% 21% Reviews Looks 5% 3% Fashion 3% Food 4% Beauty identification 1% Readers interaction 45% Miscellaneous

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Beautylab

Diaries 7% Reviews 32% Looks Fashion 36% Food Beauty identification 0% 7% 0% Readers interaction 9% 9% Miscellaneous

Beautygloss Misslipgloss Beautylab Reviews 34 50 43 Diaries 16 23 9 Looks 13 1 12 Clothing + accessories 7 7 13 Food + recipes 11 3 8 Readers interaction 12 5 0 Beauty identification 1 3 0 Miscellaneous 24 20 39 Total amount posts 118 112 124

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ANNEX III

The original article on www.beautygloss.nl appeared in Dutch. Below an English translation can be found. The initial article didn’t contain difficult words and it was chosen to approach Beautygloss readers with a personal tone, fitting to the general style of Beautygloss and Dutch customs of communication.

How does Beautygloss contribute to the image of contemporary women in society?

From Lithuania a virtual smile! My name is Nienke and I study Journalism and Media Analysis in the Lithuanian student city Kaunas. At the moment I’m writing my thesis and my aim is to investigate which influence beauty blogs have on contemporary women.

Decades ago, when blogs didn’t exist yet, women’s magazines mainly elaborated about the household sphere. Women were ought to be proper housewives, to raise children at home themselves and to be pretty for their husbands. Men’s pleasure was at the forefront, whereat women were actually a bit subordinate. It were furthermore also men that decided upon the content of female targeted magazines. All the household and beauty related topics were fine, but according to them, travelling and political issues didn’t belong in a women medium. In the Netherlands the housewife myth is to the largest extent something from the past. Most women, already for a long time, don’t live in the shadow of their husband anymore.

Nevertheless, also still now there is critique on the way women are mediated. We’re confronted with hundreds if not thousands of images of incredibly good looking women on a daily base. Everywhere in the city are advertisements, but also in magazine, on TV and in for example music video’s women are used to convey a certain message. This can be very innocent, but maybe you’ve noticed that women are sometimes also solely depicted as objects of lust. Someone’s inside and intelligence then suddenly don’t matter anymore. Often these women wear revealing clothes and quite some make-up. These kind of images are basically always Photoshopped, which creates an unrealistic beauty ideal. The abundance of perfectionized female images make a lot of girls feel insecure, and that’s a pity, because they compare themselves with something non-existing.

Fanatic feminists have renounced make up for a long time. They considered make-up usage as a sign of submissiveness towards men. They associated make-up with a too large focus on lust instead of the inner, vigorous characteristics of women. Nowadays there are many women that on purpose wear make-up and high heels, but as a sign of their own freedom to express their identity. Clothing, accessories and make-up can thus on one hand carry out that a woman is seen as an object of lust, like many advertisements 110 confirm. But, on the other hand many women nowadays consider the usage of these tools as a strengthening factor when it comes to one’s character and even expression of creativity. Quite confusing!

As you can see, for a long time already women face quite some problems with mediated female images, even still now. I’m very curious how you think about the function of Beautygloss as female medium. It could be that you personally consider beauty blogs to push women in the direction of achieving the non- exisiting beauty ideal. However, it could of course also be that you apply the information gained through beauty blogs for opposite, personal reasons. With all the contemporary lust generating female images and household and beauty related articles from the past in your mind, I’m asking you:

How does Beautygloss contribute to the image of contemporary women in society?

I hope together we can generate a respectful and honest discussion and dig a little deeper into our mutual passion.

Screenshot of the article as how it appeared on www.beautygloss.nl, starting off with some pictures, continuing later on with the actual text.

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