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OUR SWAMPS

Soar with the eagles Discover a vast and on a scenic flight over Wilpena Pound ancient land filled in Flinders Ranges with startling colours, National Park. amazing wildlife and Discover wildlife and stories as spellbinding wetlands in the heart of the desert at Coongie as the location itself Lakes National Park. Recognised as one of Australia’s National Landscapes, the Flinders Ranges offers Bushwalk through an inspiring landscape of incredible amazing gorges in beauty, featuring rugged mountain peaks, Mount Remarkable spectacular gorges and peaceful creeks and Flinders Ranges lined with grand old River Red Gums. The national parks. jewel of the Flinders Ranges is Wilpena Pound, a magnificent natural amphitheatre Soak off the red desert resembling a huge crater rising out of the dust in the central warm plains in Flinders Ranges National Park. thermal spring at Witjira Well-marked walking trails explore the park National Park. with fantastic opportunities to encounter wildlife and learn about the region’s rich Aboriginal and European heritage. Admire the dazzling white salt pans of Lake The Flinders is also the gateway to the Eyre National Park, legendary Outback, a place of surprising the largest salt lake contrasts renowned for its red desert sands, in Australia. brilliant blue skies and vast unspoilt beauty.

Sturts Desert-pea Poeppel Corner Simpson 30 Eringa Witjira NP Desert CP Dalhousie See page 59 for Cordillo Downs accommodation Simpson ideas in our Coongie National Parks. Desert RR Lakes NP Marla Oodnadatta Innamincka RR Innamincka

Lake Eyre North Lake Eyre Mulka NP Tallaringa CP Coober Pedy William Creek

Lake Lake Blanche Eyre South Wabma Kadarbu Marree Mound Springs CP Vulkathunha- Gammon Ranges NP

Tarcoola Roxby Downs Lake S E L A W H T U O S W E N Frome Glendambo Leigh Creek Lake Lake Everard Torrens

Woomera Flinders Head of Bight Lake Ranges NP Gairdner Hawker Ceduna Great Australian Bight The Dutchmans Stern CP Port Mount Brown CP Flinders Ranges & Outback Region Augusta Yunta National Parks & Reserves Orroroo NP National Park Telowie Mount CP Conservation Park Gorge CP Remarkable NP RR Regional Reserve Port Pirie Main Roads Eyre Peninsula Minor Roads Spencer Tracks Gulf Clare Renmark

Port Lincoln Gulf 0 km 200 St Vincent

Victor

Harbor A I R O T C I V

Southern Kangaroo Island

Ocean

Mount Gambier

Visitor Information Centres Coober Pedy Visitor Information Centre 1800 637 076

Hawker Visitor Information Centre 1800 777 880

Leigh Creek Visitor Information Centre (08) 8675 2056

Port Augusta Visitor Information Centre, Wadlata Outback Centre 1800 633 060

Port Pirie Tourism & Arts Centre 1800 000 424 Park Visitor Centre Wilpena Pound Visitor Information Centre, Flinders Ranges National Park (08) 8648 0048 NORTHERN TERRITORY Poeppel Corner QUEENSLAND Simpson Eringa Witjira NP Desert CP 31 Dalhousie Cordillo Downs Simpson Coongie Desert RR Lakes NP Flinders Ranges National Park 91 330 ha Marla Oodnadatta Innamincka RR Innamincka

Lake Eyre Located in the central Flinders Ranges, North Lake Eyre Mulka Flinders Ranges National Park is a place NP Tallaringa of stunning scenery with a wealth of CP geological features, wildlife and Aboriginal Coober Pedy William and European cultural heritage. A series Creek of rugged mountains, River Red Gum Lake Lake Blanche lined creeks and rolling hills covered with a WESTERN AUSTRALIA Eyre South patchwork of native pines and wildflowers in Wabma Kadarbu Marree Mound Springs CP Vulkathunha- spring are among the park’s many natural Gammon features. Wilpena Pound, one of the most Ranges NP recognised geological landmarks in , forms the hub of the park. From

Tarcoola Roxby Downs Lake S E L A W H T U O S W E N here you can take in the park’s magnificent Frome scenery along a network of bushwalking Glendambo Leigh Creek Lake Lake trails catering to all levels of fitness, enjoy Everard Torrens scenic drives or join a licensed tour operator Woomera on a 4WD tour or mountain bike adventure. Flinders For an insight into local Aboriginal culture Head and European settlement visit the award of Bight Lake Ranges NP Gairdner Hawker winning interpretation site ‘Ikara – The Ceduna Meeting Place’ at Old Wilpena Station. Great Australian Bight The Dutchmans Stern CP See Aboriginal art at Arkaroo Rock, Sacred Port Mount Brown CP Flinders Ranges & Outback Region Augusta Canyon and Perawurtina cultural heritage Yunta sites. Numerous accommodation options National Parks & Reserves Orroroo NP National Park Telowie Mount are available. Phone Wilpena Pound Visitor Information Centre on (08) 8648 0048. CP Conservation Park Gorge CP Remarkable NP RR Regional Reserve Port Pirie GO BUSHWALKING Main Roads Eyre Peninsula Hills Homestead Walk Minor Roads 6.6 km 2 hrs Easy Walk Spencer Tracks Gulf Clare Beginning at the bushwalking trailhead at Renmark Wilpena Pound Visitor Information Centre, this trail follows Wilpena Creek, encountering Port Lincoln relics and reminders of pioneering life Gulf inside Wilpena Pound. Signs entitled, ‘If the 0 km 200 St Vincent ADELAIDE walls could talk’, tell the story of Jessie Hill, daughter of the first pioneer family to live in the homestead. Walking trail brochures and Victor

Harbor A I R O T C I V Mountain views, Flinders Ranges National Park maps are available from Wilpena Pound

Southern Kangaroo Visitor Information Centre. Island The Flinders Ranges is home to Yuluna Hike two types of Aboriginal rock art – 8 km 4 hrs Moderate Hike Ocean engravings and paintings. Some of Experience the landscape that inspired these are believed to be thousands the artist Sir Hans Heysen during his visits of years old with the most common to the Flinders Ranges. Beginning at the type of engravings known as ‘intaglios’ – pecked out figures and symbols Aroona car park 50 km north of Wilpena, made by the merging of many the trail weaves through a section of the small percussion marks that form a ABC Range and takes you past a historic recognisable shape or line. pug and pine hut. Want to know more? Download the latest Flinders Ranges National Park Bushwalking brochure from www.parks.sa.gov.au

Location & Getting There 453 km N Adelaide (6 hrs). Access via Hawker, along Sacred Canyon the Princes Hwy or Main North Rd from Adelaide. Contact (08) 8648 0048

Accommodation See page 59 32

Mount Remarkable National Park

Mount Remarkable National Park 18 271 ha

The appeal of Mount Remarkable National Park lies in its amazing diversity of flora, dramatic gorges and wilderness experiences. Arid zone plants and animals, and species from the more temperate southern regions both thrive in the park making it a popular bushwalking destination. Hidden Valley Hike, Mount Remarkable National Park There are three separate vehicle entrances into the park each providing different Mount Brown opportunities to explore. Mambray Creek, Bounceback started in 1992 as a Conservation Park 2264 ha recovery program to save the north of Port Pirie is home to some of the populations of the Yellow-footed park’s best attractions, including Sugar Gum

Rock-wallaby found in the Flinders Lookout and the secluded hiking experience Ranges, Gawler Ranges and the Olary At 970 metres above sea level, Mount Brown of Hidden Gorge. Alligator Gorge is easily Ranges. Over the past 18 years, the is the highest peak in the southern Flinders accessible from the Wilmington entrance, program has evolved from a focus Ranges. The park is a former forest reserve while Melrose offers walking access to on the recovery of a single vulnerable comprising undulating country, rugged Mount Remarkable along a section of the species to a holistic landscape ridges and open woodlands. A circuit trail Heysen Trail. Accommodation is available approach, where all elements of the at Alligator Lodge and Mambray Creek ecosystem are considered. From feral with a spur track to Mount Brown summit Cabin (bookings required). Mambray Creek animal and weed control to strategic starts at Waukarie Falls. At the summit, a revegetation and fauna recovery, the commemorative lookout for Robert Brown, Campground is a popular camping spot, program has successfully helped the the naturalist aboard the Investigator sailing particularly during holiday periods. recovery of many native plant and ship led by Matthew Flinders’ voyage of GO BUSHWALKING animal communities. The success exploration, offers panoramic views of of the program has seen it extend the surrounding countryside. Mount Remarkable Summit Hike across a range of land tenures in 12.2 km return 5 hrs Moderate Hike addition to national parks, working GO BUSHWALKING This trail commences from the War side by side with pastoral landowners, Mount Brown Summit Hike Memorial Monument near the Melrose privately owned sanctuaries and the 15 km loop 7.5 hrs Moderate Hike township. The trail enables access to Mount Aboriginal community. Take this challenging, enjoyable loop hike to Remarkable Summit (960 metres) with the summit of Mount Brown. Along the way sweeping views of the Willochra Plain see evidence of a kilometre-deep canyon along the way. formed some 600 million years ago. Upon Want to know more? Download the latest reaching the peak, enjoy spectacular views Mount Remarkable Summit Hike brochure from www.parks.sa.gov.au across the southern Flinders Ranges.

Want to know more? Download latest Mount Brown Location & Getting There Summit Hike brochure from www.parks.sa.gov.au 45 km N Port Pirie (1 hr); 260 km N Adelaide there are three access points: the park headquarters at Mambray Location & Getting There Creek is 45km N of Port Pirie via Hwy 1. The Alligator 14 km S Quorn (30 min); 343 km N Adelaide. Access via Gorge entrance starts 1 km S Wilmington and continues Finlays Rd and Richmans Valley Rd. 13 km to Alligator Gorge. Walking access to the Mount Remarkable section lies directly behind Melrose. Contact (08) 8634 7068 Contact (08) 8634 7068

Accommodation See page 59 33

Telowie Gorge Vulkathunha-Gammon Conservation Park 1967 ha Ranges National Park 1 24 716 ha

Over immense time, Telowie Creek has cut the spectacular Telowie Gorge through the south-western flank of the South Flinders Location & Getting There Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Ranges. The park is home to a diverse range 67 km E Leigh Creek (2 hrs 30 min); 620 km N Adelaide. Park is an arid wilderness of spectacular of flora and fauna, including a colony of Access is off Copley-Balcanoona Rd. rugged ranges and deep gorges. The Yellow-footed Rock-wallabies. The Nukunu Contact (08) 8648 4829 park has important cultural significance Hike at the entrance to the gorge is Accommodation See page 59 for the Adnyamathanha people who are well-marked. Further into the park, walkers the traditional custodians of the region. should be careful on the informal trail. Yellow-footed Rock-wallaby There are several access points, both for Location & Getting There 2WD and 4WD vehicles, with the heart of 25 km NE Port Pirie (45 min); 248 km N Adelaide. Access the park offering challenging wilderness via Highway 1. bushwalking experiences. The park includes Contact (08) 8634 7068 limited caravan sites, bush camping, 4WD touring tracks and several accommodation The Dutchmans Stern options. Bookings are essential for hut Conservation Park 3688 ha accommodation and the shearers’ quarters. The park adjoins Lake Frome Regional Reserve and shares a boundary The bluff, known as The Dutchmans Stern with Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary. is a prominent landmark in this park. Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges Traditional Climbing the bluff rewards bushwalkers Owners and DENR co-manage the park. with sensational views of Spencer Gulf, the surrounding ranges and Willochra Plain. Several walking trails including fire management tracks and sections of the Balcanoona and Weetootla Gorge junction, Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park Heysen Trail provide challenging hiking experiences. A comfy homestead and shearers’ quarters in the park offer privacy with views of The Bluff. Bookings essential. GO BUSHWALKING The Dutchmans Stern Hike 10.5 km loop 5 hrs Moderate Hike Enjoy a moderate hike to the Sugar Gum dotted ridges of the Dutchmans Stern rewarding your efforts with spectacular views across Spencer Gulf and Willochra Plain.

Want to know more? Download The Dutchmans Stern Conservation Park brochure from www.parks.sa.gov.au

Location & Getting There 10 km NW Quorn (15 min); 343 km N Adelaide. Access via Arden Vale Rd. Contact (08) 8634 7068

Accommodation See page 59 34 Desert P rks A Desert Parks Pass is your passport to South Australia’s breathtaking arid landscapes by 4WD. The pass allows entry into the following seven parks and covers camping (where permitted). When you purchase a Desert Parks Pass you will receive a handbook with information on the parks, safety information for outback driving, vehicle supply checklists, wildlife information and detailed maps. The pass is valid for 12 months and is issued on Desert Parks Pass South Australia Handbook a per vehicle basis. National Park For further information contact: Desert Parks Hotline

Desert Parks Pass toll-fre 1800 816 078 e Hotline 1800 816 078 Coongie Lakes Innamincka D e p a r t m e n t of E n r o rv ni m e n t www.parks.sa.gov.au a gt a enH i de r National Park 26 669 ha Regional Reserve 1 354 193 ha

www.environment.sa.gov.au Please note that although beautiful, Coongie Lakes, (pronounced Khun-gee the desert is a harsh and unforgiving Lakes) is an ever-changing desert wetland environment for the unprepared traveller. Innamincka Regional Reserve offers a located in one of the most arid areas of Familiarising yourself with the safety and unique taste of the Australian outback, Australia. The freshwater wetland system trip-planning information in your Desert Parks with connections to some of Australia’s is home to an amazing variety of wildlife, handbook before you leave is the first step most famous explorers, diverse wildlife and including fish, turtles, frogs and mammals. to ensure you’ll get the most out of your internationally significant wetlands and It is a deeply spiritual site for Aboriginal desert adventure. wildlife. The reserve is an oasis of amazing groups who have a connection to the area contrasts: you can cruise along shady and is a significant European site associated creeks by canoe; explore historic sites; with pastoralism and exploration. Coongie The amazing contrast of life-filled or fish and swim in one of the reserve’s wetlands surrounded by a sun-scorched Lakes is listed as a Ramsar Wetland of many waterholes surrounded by vast red desert makes Coongie Lakes a International Importance and is recognised desert and arid plains. Within the reserve spectacular oasis. Linked to the Cooper as a significant feeding and resting area is Innamincka township, once a vital Creek system, Coongie Lakes receives its for more than 74 species of waterbirds and trading post for pastoral properties in the water from north-west Queensland, up to 13 other wetland dependant species. The 1000 kilometres away. An arid wetland, region. Among the must-see sites are peaceful serenity of Coongie Lakes attracts Coongie supports an incredible diversity the internationally renowned wetlands of 4WD enthusiasts and birdwatchers alike, with of wildlife including native fish, reptiles Coongie Lakes; Cullyamurra Waterhole; the autumn the best time to see migratory birds. and frogs. Recognised as a Ramsar graves of ill-fated explorers Burke and Wills; Wetland of International Importance, Location & Getting There and just across the Queensland border, the lakes support over 205 species of 100 km NW of Innamincka in Innamincka Regional the historic Dig Tree site. birds, of which 24 are rare, vulnerable Reserve off Strzelecki Track (via Leigh Creek). Access via or endangered in South Australia. Innamincka. Location & Getting There Thousands of migratory birds fly some Contact Desert Parks Hotline 1800 816 078 754 km NE Port Augusta. Access along the Strzelecki 25 000 kilometres from the Northern Port Augusta Regional Office (08) 8648 5300 Track, via Leigh Creek. Hemisphere to shelter and feed across Contact Desert Parks Hotline 1800 816 078 this vast area from April to December. Port Augusta Regional Office (08) 8648 5300 This makes Coongie Lakes an important link to the global environment. 35

Lake Eyre National Park 1 348 837 ha

Lake Eyre National Park is Australia’s largest salt lake. When filled with water, the lake is a breeding haven for masses of waterbirds. The park is also home to fascinating reptiles including the Lake Eyre Dragon and tiny forms of aquatic life such as Brine and Shield shrimp that suddenly appear when the lake contains water. Water converges into the lake from the catchment areas of three different states. Lake Eyre has filled to capacity only four times in the past 150 years. Camping is available at Halligan Bay. Access to Lake Eyre National Park is by either of two tracks. Both cross pastoral properties and are suitable for 4WD vehicles only. Reserves of fuel, water and food must be carried.

Location & Getting There 60 km E of William Creek. Access via the Oodnadatta Track. Contact Desert Parks Hotline 1800 816 078 Port Augusta Regional Office (08) 8648 5300 Lake Eyre National Park Simpson Desert Conservation Park Many of South Australia’s national parks and Regional Reserve 3 614 341 ha are ablaze with wildflowers each spring. After good rains, Flinders Ranges National Park, Located in the driest region of Australia, the and Gawler Ranges National Park all Simpson Desert is a sea of parallel red sand provide excellent opportunities to admire some of the state’s best-known wildflowers. ridges, some 300 to 500 km long. The park South Australia’s floral emblem, the straddles the boundaries of South Australia, exquisite red Sturts Desert-pea is most Queensland and the Northern Territory. commonly seen in northern reaches of Simpson Desert Conservation Park, Simpson the state such as Vulkathunha-Gammon Desert Regional Reserve and Witjira National Ranges National Park. Flinders Chase Park form a group of parks representing one National Park on Kangaroo Island is of the world’s best examples of dunal desert. home to over 400 native plants and A wide variety of desert flora and fauna are supports many protected in the desert landscape featuring species of native orchids. Pelicans, Lake Eyre National Park varied dune systems, extensive salt lakes, spinifex grasslands and acacia woodlands. Tallaringa You can camp anywhere within 50 metres of Conservation Park 1 268 859 ha public access tracks in the Simpson Desert, however the best places are mostly located towards the salt lakes in the central region Tallaringa Conservation Park lies 100 km west where Gidgee woodlands provide shade, from the opal mining town of Coober Pedy shelter and soft ground. It is recommended on the fringe of the Great Desert. you cross the parks from west to east to take The park is a vast wilderness of dunes with advantage of the gentler upsweep to most seasonal flora and gibber rises that support dunes. Travellers should be well-prepared a variety of important wildlife species. and avoid attempting to tow trailers across Access is by 4WD only and there are no the Simpson Desert. For visitors safety, the services or facilities available. Camping is Simpson Desert Conservation Park and permitted in clear areas within 50 metres Regional Reserve are closed annually from of the popular Anne Beadell Highway which 1 December to 15 March. A Desert Parks passes through the centre of the park and Pass is required to enter the Simpson Desert. leads into Western Australia. Location & Getting There Location & Getting There 957 km N Port Augusta. Access via Stuart Hwy, via Oodnadatta and Dalhousie Springs, or through Birdsville 615 km NW Port Augusta. Access via Stuart Hwy, via from the east. Coober Pedy and Mabel Creek Station. Contact Desert Parks Hotline 1800 816 078 Contact Desert Parks Hotline 1800 816 078 Port Augusta Regional Office (08) 8648 5300 Port Augusta Regional Office (08) 8648 5300 36

Dalhousie Ruins,

South Australia has some amazing four-wheel driving opportunities whether you’re out to explore the desert or coast, mallee or the ranges. Experience the heart of the Outback along the Oodnadatta Track, through Purni Bore in Witjira National Park or witness the sea of parallel red sand ridges in the Relaxing at Dalhousie Springs, Witjira National Park Simpson Desert. On Eyre Peninsula, 4WD tracks allow you to discover the Wabma Kadarbu Witjira sensational beaches and limestone Mound Springs National Park 771 113 ha cliffs of or Conservation Park 12 016 ha check out the Murraylands, via the Ngarkat, Mount Rescue and Big Desert

4WD loops. To discover the spectacular scenery of the by 4WD, The major attractions of this park are ‘The The gateway to the Simpson Desert, Witjira including , Bubbler’ and ‘Blanche Cup’ mound springs. offers visitors a truly memorable outback and Little Dip Conservation Park, Water from the depths of the Great Artesian experience. The park is home to Dalhousie purchase a copy of the new Limestone Basin filters to the surface forming mounds Springs, a lush oasis in the desert and Coast 4WD Explorers Guide - phone from the sediments and salts as the water the largest complex of artesian springs in (08) 8723 1644 for retail outlets. evaporates. The slowly bubbling ponds are Australia. Visitors come here for a refreshing now home to unique aquatic plants and Wherever you go, please stay on swim in the centrally located thermal invertebrates. Permanent wetlands created designated tracks, drive responsibly pools where the water temperature is by the spring’s overflow provide habitat and respect the natural environment. around 37°C. Pleasant camping spots and for a variety of waterbirds. Swimming in upgraded visitor facilities make Witjira one the springs is not permitted. Camping is of the Simpson Desert’s most popular available at nearby Coward Springs. national parks. On the western edge of Location & Getting There the Simpson Desert, Witjira’s Traditional 498 km N Port Augusta. Access via Oodnadatta Track. Owners and DENR co-manage the park. This co-management agreement provides Contact Desert Parks Hotline 1800 816 078 Port Augusta Regional Office (08) 8648 5300 a shared approach to the land that accommodates traditional Aboriginal uses with environmental management, tourism and recreational activities. Witjira and Dalhousie Springs have much to offer the desert traveller and is one of South Australia’s truly memorable experiences.

Location & Getting There 887 km NW of Port Augusta. Access via Stuart Hwy, via Oodnadatta. Contact Desert Parks Hotline 1800 816 078 Port Augusta Regional Office (08) 8648 5300