EMIA

Manual Hand S3EMIA-305-ATT15

1.0 General 1.1 Review manufacturer’s operating manual and S3EMIA-305-PR1 Hand & Power Tools for additional guidelines. 1.2 Carry tools using a heavy belt or apron and hang tools at your sides. 1.3 Never carry tools in your pockets or hanging behind your back.

2.0 2.1 Hammers are designed according to the intended purpose. Select a that is comfortable for you and that is the proper size and weight for the job. Misuse can cause the striking face to chip, possibly causing a serious injury. 2.2 Choose a hammer with a striking face diameter approximately 1.3 centimeters( ½ inch ) larger than the face of the being struck (e.g., chisels, punches, wedges, etc.). 2.3 Strike a hammer blow squarely with the striking face parallel to the surface being struck. Always avoid glancing blows and over and under strikes. (Hammers with beveled faces are less likely to chip or spall). 2.4 Look behind and above you before swinging the hammer.

2.5 Watch the object you are hitting. 2.6 Hold the hammer with your wrist straight and your hand firmly wrapped around the handle. 2.7 Do not use handles that are rough, cracked, broken, splintered, sharp-edged or loosely attached to the head. Remove from service and replace the handle if possible. 2.8 Do not use any hammer head with dents, cracks, chips, mushrooming, or excessive wear. 2.9 Do not use a hammer for any purpose for which it was not designed or intended. 2.10 Do not use one hammer to strike another hammer, other hard metal objects, stones or concrete. 2.11 Do not redress, grind, weld or reheat-treat a hammer head. 2.12 Do not strike with the side or cheek of the hammer.

3.0 Pipe Cutters, Reamers, Taps and Threaders 3.1 Replace pipe cutter wheels which are nicked or otherwise damaged. 3.2 Use a three- or four-wheeled cutter, if there is not enough space to swing the single wheel pipe cutter completely around the pipe. 3.3 Choose a cutting wheel suitable for cutting the type of pipe material required: 3.3.1 Thin wheel for cutting ordinary steel pipe. 3.3.2 Stout wheel for cutting cast iron. 3.3.3 Other wheels for cutting stainless steel, plastic and other materials.

3.4 Select the proper hole diameter and correct tap size to tap a hole. The hole should be sized so that the thread cut by the tap will be about 75 percent as deep as the thread on the tap. 3.5 Use a proper tap (with a “T” handle) for turning a tap.

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3.6 Use lubricant or machine cutting fluid with metals other than cast iron. 3.7 Do not permit chips to clog flutes (groves in the tap that allow metal chips to escape from the hole). The chips may prevent the tap from turning – this may result in the tap breaking if you continue to apply pressure. 3.8 Do not attempt to thread hardened steel. This can chip or damage the die. 3.9 Do not thread any rod or other cylindrical object that is larger in diameter than the major diameter of the die thread. 3.10 Do not use a spiral reamer on a rotating pipe. The reamer may snag and cause serious injury.

4.0 and Wire Cutters 4.1 Pliers are made in various shapes and sizes and for many uses. Use the correct pliers or wire cutters for the job. 4.2 Choose pliers or wire cutters that have a grip span of 6.4 – 8.9 centimeters (2½ – 3½ inches) to prevent palm or fingers from being pinched when the tools are closed.

4.3 Use adjustable pliers that allow for a firm grip of the work piece while maintaining a comfortable handgrip (i.e., hand grasp is not too wide). 4.4 Use tools only if they are in good condition. 4.4.1 Make sure that the cutting edges are sharp. Dull and worn-down cutting edges require many times more force for cutting. 4.4.2 Make sure that the toothed jaws are clean and sharp. Greasy or worn-down jaws can result in compromised safety. Such tools also require increased force to hold the work piece which, in turn, increases the risk of muscular fatigue and repetitive strain injuries. 4.5 Oil pliers and wire cutters regularly. A drop of oil on the hinge will make the tools easier to use. 4.6 Pull on the pliers; do not push away from you when applying pressure. If the tool slips unexpectedly, you may lose your balance or injure your hand. 4.7 Cut at right angles. Never rock the cutting tool from side to side or bend wire back and forth against the cutting edges. 4.8 Do not cut hardened wire unless the pliers or wire cutters are specifically manufactured for this purpose. 4.9 Do not expose pliers or wire cutters to excessive heat. 4.10 Do not bend stiff wire with light pliers. Needle-nose pliers can be damaged by using the tips to bend large wire. Use a sturdier tool. 4.11 Do not use pliers as a hammer. 4.12 Do not hammer on pliers or wire cutters to cut wires or bolts. 4.13 Do not extend the length of handles to gain greater leverage. Use a larger pair of pliers for gripping or a bolt cutter for cutting.

4.14 Do not use cushion grip handles for jobs requiring tools with electrically insulated handles. Cushion grips are for comfort primarily and do not protect against electric shock. 4.15 Do not use pliers on nuts and bolts; use a wrench.

5.0 5.1 Screwdrivers are made in various shapes and sizes and for many uses. Use the correct for the job.

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5.2 Choose contoured handles that fit the shank tightly, with a flange to keep the hand from slipping off the tool. 5.3 Use a slot screwdriver with a blade tip width that is the same as the width of the slotted screw head. 5.4 For cross-head screws, use the correct size and type of screwdriver; a Phillips screwdriver may slip out of a screw head designed for use with the slightly flatter-tipped Pozidriv screwdriver. 5.5 Use a vise or to hold the stock if the piece is small or moves easily. 5.6 Keep the screwdriver handle clean. A greasy handle could cause an injury or damage from unexpected slippage. 5.7 If work must be carried out on “live” electrical equipment, use screwdrivers that have insulated handles designed for electrical work and a non-conducting shaft. Remember, most plastic handles are designed for grip and comfort. 5.8 Use non-magnetic tools when working near strong magnets (e.g., in some laboratories). 5.9 Use a screw-holding screwdriver (with screw-holding clips or magnetic blades) to get screws started in awkward, hard-to-reach areas. Square-tipped screwdrivers (e.g., Robertson) that hold screws with recessed square holes are also useful in such situations. 5.10 Use an offset screwdriver in close quarters where a conventional screwdriver cannot be used. 5.11 Use a screwdriver that incorporates the following features when continuous work is needed: 5.11.1 Use a pistol grip to provide for a straighter wrist and better leverage. 5.11.2 Use a "Yankee drill" mechanism (spiral ratchet screwdriver or push screwdriver) which rotates the blade when the tool is pushed forward. 5.11.3 Use a ratchet device to drive hard-to-move screws efficiently, or use a powered screwdriver.

5.12 File a rounded tip square making sure the edges are straight. A dull or rounded tip can slip out of the slot and cause hand injury or damage to materials. 5.13 Store screwdrivers in a rack or partitioned pouch so that the proper screwdriver can be selected quickly. 5.14 Do not lean or push on a screwdriver with any more force than necessary to keep contact with the screw. A screw properly piloted and fitted will draw itself into the right position when turned. Keep the shank directly over the screw being driven. 5.15 Do not hold the stock in one hand while using the screwdriver with the other as an injury may result if the screwdriver slips out of the slot. 5.16 Do not hammer screws that cannot be turned.

5.17 Do not grind the screwdriver tip to fit another size screw head. 5.18 Do not try to use screwdrivers on screw heads for which they are not designed (e.g., straight blade screwdrivers on Phillips, clutch head, Torx or multi-fluted spline screw heads). 5.19 Do not use defective screwdrivers (e.g. rounded or damaged edges or tips; split or broken handles; bent shafts). 5.20 Do not use a screwdriver for prying, punching, chiseling, scoring, scraping or stirring paint.

5.21 Do not use pliers on the handle of a screwdriver for extra turning power. A wrench should be used only on the square screwdriver shank designed for that purpose. 5.22 Do not expose a screwdriver blade to excessive heat. Heat can affect the temper of the metal and weaken the tool. 5.23 Do not use a screwdriver to check if an electrical circuit is live. Use a suitable meter or other circuit testing device.

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5.24 Do not carry screwdrivers in clothing pockets.

6.0 Snips 6.1 Wear safety glasses and protective gloves when working with snips. Small pieces of metal may go flying in the air and cut edges of metal are sharp. 6.2 Snips are made in various shapes and sizes for various tasks. The handle can be like those on scissors with finger and thumb holes or like plier handles. Models are available for cutting in straight lines and in curves to the left or right. 6.3 Select the right size and type of snips for the job; check the manufacturer's specifications about the intended use of the snips (e.g., type of cut - straight, wide curve, tight curve, right or left, and maximum thickness and kind of metal or other material that can be cut). 6.3.1 Universal snips can cut in both straight and wide curves. 6.3.2 Straight snips and duckbill snips (flat blade, "perpendicular" to the handle, with pointed tips) are generally designed to cut in straight lines; some duckbill snips are designed for cutting curved lines. 6.3.3 Hawk's bill snips (with crescent-shaped jaws) are used for cutting tight circles. 6.3.4 Aviation snips have compound leverage that reduces the effort required for cutting. 6.3.5 Offset snips have jaws that are set at an angle from the handle.

6.4 Use only snips that are sharp and in good condition. 6.5 Use snips for cutting soft metal only. Hard or hardened metal should be cut with tools designed for that purpose.

6.6 Use ordinary hand pressure for cutting. If extra force is needed, use a larger tool. 6.7 Cut so that the waste is on the right if you are right-handed or on the left if you are left-handed. 6.8 Avoid springing the blades. This results from trying to cut metal that is too thick or heavy for the snips you are using. 6.9 Keep the nut and the pivot bolt properly adjusted at all times. 6.10 Oil the pivot bolt on the snips occasionally. 6.11 Do not try to cut sharp curves with straight cut snips. 6.12 Do not cut sheet metal thicker than the manufacturer's recommended upper limit (e.g., cuts up to 16-gauge cold, rolled steel or 18-gauge stainless steel). Do not extend the length of handles to gain greater leverage. 6.13 Do not hammer or use your foot to exert extra pressure on the cutting edges. 6.14 Do not use cushion grip handles for tasks requiring insulated handles. They are for comfort primarily and not for protection against electric shocks. 6.15 Do not attempt to re-sharpen snips in a sharpening device designed for scissors, garden tools, or cutlery.

7.0 7.1 Use the correct wrench for the job - pipe wrenches for pipes and plumbing fittings, and general-use wrenches for nuts and bolts. 7.1.1 Do not use pipe wrenches on nuts and bolts. 7.1.2 Use a box or with a straight handle, rather than an off-set handle, when possible. 7.1.3 Do not use a conventional adjustable wrench for turning a tap – it will cause uneven pressure on the tap that may cause it to break.

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7.1.4 Do not use a makeshift wrench.

7.2 Inspect pipe wrenches periodically for worn or unsafe parts and replace them: 7.2.1 Wrenches must not be used when jaws are sprung to the point that slippage occurs. 7.2.2 Ensure that the teeth of a are sharp, clean and free of oil and debris. 7.2.3 Do not use worn adjustable wrenches. Inspect the threads, knurl, jaw and pin for wear. 7.2.4 Discard any bent or damaged wrenches (e.g., open-ended wrenches with spread jaws or box wrenches with broken or damaged points).

7.3 Select the correct jaw size to avoid slippage. 7.3.1 Ensure that the jaw of an open-ended wrench is in full contact (fully seated, “flat,” not tilted) with the nut or bolt before applying pressure. 7.3.2 Face a pipe wrench or adjustable wrench “forward,” adjust tightly and turn the wrench so pressure is against the permanent or fixed jaw. Do not pull on a wrench that is loosely adjusted. 7.3.3 Adjust the pipe wrench grip to maintain a gap between the back of the hook jaw and the pipe. This concentrates the pressure at the jaw teeth, producing the maximum gripping force. It also aids the ratcheting action. 7.3.4 Do not insert a shim in a wrench for better fit. 7.3.5 Before applying pressure, ensure that the jaws have a good bite. 7.3.6 Make sure adjustable wrenches do not "slide" open during use. 7.3.7 Do not increase the leverage by adding sleeved additions (e.g., a pipe) to increase tool handle length. Use a larger wrench as necessary.

7.4 Ensure that the pipe or fitting is clean to prevent unexpected slippage and possible injury. 7.5 Maintain a proper stance with feet firmly placed to maintain balance. 7.5.1 Position the body in a way that will prevent loss of balance and injury if the wrench slips or something (e.g., a bolt) suddenly breaks. 7.5.2 Pull, rather than push on the wrench handle as body balance is more likely to be maintained if the wrench slips. 7.5.3 Pull using a slow, steady pull; do not use fast, jerky movements. 7.6 Apply a small amount of pressure to a ratchet wrench initially to ensure that the ratchet wheel (or gear) is engaged with the pawl (a catch fitting in the gear) for the direction you are applying pressure. 7.7 Support the head of the ratchet wrench when socket extensions are used. 7.8 Stand aside when work is done with wrenches overhead. 7.9 Do not use a wrench on moving machinery. 7.10 Do not use the wrong tools for the job. For example: Do not use pliers instead of a wrench or a wrench as a hammer. Do not use pipe wrenches for lifting or bending pipes.

7.11 Do not strike a wrench (except a "strike face" wrench) with a hammer or similar object to gain more force. 7.12 Do not expose a wrench to excessive heat (like from a blow torch) that could affect the temper of the metal and ruin the tool.

8.0 Files/Rasps 8.1 Do not use a file as a pry bar, hammer, screwdriver, or chisel. 8.2 When using a file or a rasp, grasp the handle in one hand and the toe of the file in the other.

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8.3 Do not hammer on a file.

9.0 Chisels and Punches 9.1 Use the right size and type of chisel (metal or wood) or (drift pin, centre, pin) for the job. 9.2 Use tools only if they are good condition (i.e., cutting edges are sharp, struck head is not mushroomed or chipped). 9.2.1 Do not use chisels or punches if the cutting edge is dull, mushroomed or chipped, or if the point of a punch is slanted or damaged. 9.2.2 Choose smooth, rectangular handles that have no sharp edges and are attached firmly to the chisel. Replace broken or splintered handles. 9.2.3 Redress striking tools with burred or mushroomed heads.  Redress the point or cutting edge to its original shape.  Do not use a grinder to redress heat-treated tools. Use a whetstone.  Grind to a slightly convex cutting edge.  The point angle of the chisel should be 70° for hard metals, 60° for soft.  Do not apply too much pressure to the head when grinding a chisel. The heat generated can remove the temper. Immerse the chisel in cold water periodically when grinding. 9.2.4 Replace any chisel or punch that is bent, cracked, shows excessive wear or cannot successfully be redressed.

9.3 Check stock thoroughly for knots, staples, nails, screws, or other foreign objects before chiseling or punching. 9.4 Hold the chisel, for shearing and chipping, at an angle which permits the bevel of the cutting edge to lie flat against the shearing plane. 9.5 Use the appropriate type and size of hammer for the chisel or punch, such as: 9.5.1 A wooden or plastic with a large striking face on chisels. 9.5.2 Heavy-duty or framing chisels made of a solid or molded handle can be struck with a steel hammer. 9.5.3 Ball-peen hammers are generally chosen for use with punches. 9.5.4 Refer to the ‘Hammers’ section of this document for further guidance. 9.6 Chip or cut away from the body. Keep hands and body behind the cutting edge. 9.7 Make finishing or paring cuts with hand pressure alone. 9.8 Provide hand protection if possible: 9.8.1 Use a sponge rubber shield, punch or chisel holder. 9.8.2 Clamp small work pieces in a vise and chip towards the stationary jaw when working with a chisel. 9.8.3 Do not allow bull point chisels to be hand-held by one employee and struck by another. Use tongs or a chisel holder to guide the chisel so that the holder's hand will not be injured.

9.9 Do not use cold chisels for cutting or splitting stone or concrete.

9.10 Do not use a drift pin punch (also called an aligning punch) as a pin punch intended for driving, removing, or loosening pins, keys, and rivets. 9.11 Do not use a wood chisel on metal. 9.12 Do not use a wood chisel as a pry or a wedge.

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9.13 Place chisels safely within the plastic protective caps to cover cutting edges when not in use. 9.14 Store chisels in a “storage roll,” a cloth or plastic bag with slots for each chisel, and keep them in a drawer or tray.

10.0 Hacksaws 10.1 Select correct blade for material being cut. 10.2 Keep saw blades clean and lightly oiled using light machine oil on the blade to keep it from overheating and breaking. 10.3 Secure blade with the teeth pointing forward. Tighten the nut until the blade is under tension. 10.4 Keep blade rigid, and frame properly aligned. 10.5 Cut using steady strokes, directed away from you. 10.6 Use entire length of blade in each cutting stroke. 10.7 Cut harder materials more slowly than soft materials.

10.8 Clamp thin, flat pieces requiring edge cutting. 10.9 Do not apply too much pressure on the blade as the blade may break. 10.10 Do not twist when applying pressure. 10.11 Do not use when the blade becomes loose in the frame.

11.0 Vises 11.1 When clamping a long work piece in a vise, support the far end of the work piece by using an adjustable pipe stand, saw horse or box. 11.2 Position the work piece in the vise so that the entire face of the jaw supports the work piece. 11.3 Do not use a vise that has worn or broken jaw inserts, or has cracks or fractures in the body of the vise. 11.4 Do not slip a pipe over the handle of a vise to gain extra leverage.

12.0 Clamps 12.1 Do not use a C-clamp for hoisting materials. 12.2 Do not use a C-clamp as a permanent fastening device.

13.0 Pry Bars 13.1 Establish balance and stable footing when using a bar for prying. 13.2 Pry bars must be appropriate to the task to prevent slipping or tool breakage.

14.0 Jacks 14.1 All jacks—including lever and ratchet jacks, screw jacks, and hydraulic jacks—must have a stop indicator, and the stop limit must not be exceeded. 14.2 The manufacturer’s load limit must be permanently marked in a prominent place on the , and the load limit must not be exceeded. 14.3 A jack should never be used to support a lifted load. Once the load has been lifted, it must immediately be blocked up. Put a block under the base of the jack when the foundation is not firm, and place a block between the jack cap and load if the cap might slip.

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14.4 To set up a jack, make certain of the following: 14.4.1 The base of the jack rests on a firm, level surface; 14.4.2 The jack is correctly centered; 14.4.3 The jack head bears against a level surface; and 14.4.4 The lift force is applied evenly.

14.5 Clear all tools, equipment and any other obstructions from under the load before lowering the jack. 14.6 Proper maintenance of jacks is essential for safety. All jacks must be lubricated regularly. In addition, each jack must be inspected according to the following schedule: 14.6.1 For jacks used continuously or intermittently at one site—inspected at least once every 6 months; 14.6.2 For jacks sent out of the shop for special work—inspected when sent out and inspected when returned; and 14.6.3 For jacks subjected to abnormal loads or shock—inspected before use and immediately thereafter.

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