• Abstract and Figures
• Public Full-text

ABSTAND / ADRESS WILL GO HERE / EMAIL WILL GO HERE PUBLISHER . RICHARD A. WILLIAMS // CREATIVE DIRECTOR . AMANDA NELSON OTHER INFORMATION WILL GO HERE FEATURES 01 // ARTICLE ONE WILL GO HERE 02 // ARTICLE TWO WILL GO HERE 03 // ARTICLEARTICLE THREE WILL GO HERE 04 // ARTICLE FOUR WILL GO HERE 05 // ARTICLE FIVE WILL GO HERE 06 // ARTICLE SIX WILL GO HERE 07 // ARTICLE SE7EN WILL GO HERE t Andrea 90mm German Infantryman Andrea 54mm SS General Warriors 200mm Fallschirmjager (modification) S&T 101st Airborne I always experiment with new techniques and painting formulas. Now I am trying Vallejo Acrylics. When I started figure paint- ing, I used oils over Humbrol Enamels. I then started using Humbrol or Model Master Enamels as an experiment. I think my leaning towards Vallejos grew out of that technique- they both are very similar in use. Maybe the point I should have taken was “use whatever technique you are comfortable with, and develop that”. Two of the figures are painted with oils. The technique is pretty straightforward, but a lot of modelers get cold feet when they find out that they have to learn paint mixes. I guess it is similar to learning to drive with a stick shift. Once you learn, you can drive anything. Oil paint has the advantage to longer working time. I still use oils exclusively for skin tones. Below is a short outline of the technique: 1. For the undercoat, paint the section of the figure a color close to the final result. Let this dry an appropriate amount of time. If you use enamels, at least 24 hrs is needed. 2. Mix the oil color for the section undercoated. You should start with a medium color. Apply this to the entire section. I like to use a clean brush and remove any marks or excess. 3. Mix a shadow color- using a small brush, paint the shadow colors in the folds, under seams, etc. You don’t have to be too neat here- just a small line of paint is probably all you need. Use a clean, dry brush and feather the color into the still wet base color. Don’t blend too much, or it will disappear. As you progress, it is fine to go back and add more shadow if needed. 4. Mix a highlight color. Apply this to the tops of folds, shoulders, etc. As with the shadow, us a clean dry brush and blend into the base. Be careful with the highlight- too much and you can wash out your color. 5. Once the highlights and shadows are applied and blended, you can go back and adjust any tone that may need accen- tuation. I like to use a crock pot to dry oils. I place it on low, and put the painted piece in the pot for about an hour- be careful- it gets hot. Don’t put styrene figures in the pot! Once the basic work is dry, you can go back and add shadows and touchup as needed. I use a thinned amount of color for that. If the figure is not flat enough, go ahead and shoot a light coat of Testors Dullcoat. Be careful, it will knock down some of your shadows and highlights. Humbrol Enamel Technique Many modelers use this technique or a version of it. The 200 mm Fallschirmjager was painted with this technique (the flesh is in oils). 1. Paint the section of the figure with the appropriate Humbrol color. Usually two coats suffice. Allow to dry. 2. Using your base color as a starting point, add a color for a shadow- to darken the base color. With the shadow, thin with paint thinner, to the consistency of about 60% thinner to 40% paint. Lay this color in the shadows. You have to be more precise than with the oils. Immediately take a clean brush moistened with thinner, and blend the edges into the base color. You may need to wipe the blending brush on a rag to remove excess paint buildup. To accentuate, you can go back later, and place a darker mix of the shadow (keep the paint very thin). This may take several applications- the shadow does not blend into the base as with the oil painting technique. 3. For the highlight, mix a lighter color of the base. Then apply as you did with the shadow. Just remember to keep the mix thin. Again, you can go back and add another layer of thin paint, in a slightly lighter value to accent the highlight. I use cheap regular Mineral Spirits to thin the paint. Always keep your blending brush clean, so you do not contaminate the blending. When you have the brush full of paint, I use a piece of paper to “unload” the brush before I touch the model. That way, you have control on how much paint goes on the figure. When dry, accenting pocket seams and edges can be done with a thin wash of dark color- burnt umber, black, etc. Usually Humbrol or Model Master dries flat. But, they take a coat of Dullcoat well too. 1 Acrylics Similar with the enamel technique, but you use water instead of thinner. Windsor and Newton markets a water color blending medium that can be used with water (or alone) to delay the drying of the paint. Thin layers are the key. BY Note on Specific Components | I use enamels or acrylics to paint accessories. I usually use a wash to accent the detail. For a chipped paint look, I paint the part an appropriate metal color, and then apply a liquid mask. Then the top coat is applied. When dry, the mask is pulled off. Another technique is to use an artists pencil to draw marks and chips. I use a silver or grey colored pencil. For Helmets, I paint them with enamel. Then use oil or acrylic color dabbed on the helmet then wiped off to create a camouflage pattern, or to accent detail. When dry, I rub ground up pencil MM SS GENERAL lead on the helmet with my finger. Silver pencil on the edges simulates wear. Leather is painted 54 with flat black, and then given a dilute mix of Vallejo Black and Orange Brown. More orange brown or Iraqi Sand is used to accent the edges. Hardware is painted with printer’s ink. This has a fine grain, it comes in paste form. Use the clear carrier from any enamel metallic paint as a carrier. ANDREA Weathering | ” I love the pigment powders on the market. They can be applied dry, or with Tamiya thinner, alco- hol; the sky’s the limit. For groundwork, add the pigments to acrylic matt gel medium to create earthwork. Adding a little acrylic gloss with make it mud. Hudson and Allen make a great mud product too. Adding Future floor polish for water works well. It dries crystal clear, and can be built up for small puddles. For grass I use the products from Woodland Scenics, or Hudson and Allen. Also cut up paint brush bristles work good too (the cheap light colored brushes at home centers). The key to figure painting is finding a technique, practicing with it and practicing again. Have fun and experiment! GERMAN INFANTRYMAN MM ANDREA 90 “ “A Final Fare Well” A HOLOCAUST DIORAMA BY KEITH FORSYTH In 1993 Universal Studios released a film that was to change When the film was released it was at the beginning of my my whole outlook, the film was directed by Steven Spielberg modeling career and although I felt it was a project I wanted to and was called “Schindler’s List”. Filmed almost entirely in attempt it was not until about 2 years ago I felt I had reached a black and white it told the true story of the German industrialist high enough skill level where I would be able to do it the justice Oskar Schindler and how he saved 1100 Jew’s during the dark it would deserve. I like most model makers try to do some days of the Holocaust. Since watching that film I have always research on the subject I am building this was no exception wanted to build a diorama Dedicated to the millions of innocent and I can honestly say it has been the hardest project I have people who lost there lives not for what they did but for who currently had to research. This was not due to the availability they where. of material but the content and story it revealed, I do not claim 2 BY KEITH FORSYTH | A HOLOCAUST DIORAMA | INAL FAREWELL” “A F to be an expert on the subject but I would like to share some of the history and my findings regarding “Shoah” or the Holocaust. History of the Holocaust To begin to understand the Holocaust you need to have the history leading up to and during the years 1933 to 1946. The persecution of the Jews and antisemitism did not begin in 1933 or end in 1946 but this is the time that the Holocaust refers to. and on the Jews, who supposedly were behind it all. Youthful On November 11th 1918 the First World War ended, seven Nazi thugs relished clashes with Social Democrats and other months later on June 28th 1919 the Versailles Treaty was political opponents. The summer of 1932 was particularly signed in Paris, it found Germany guilty of starting the First bloody, as Nazi Storm Troopers made good on their promises World War and required them to pay for all the damages the to “break skulls” and “smash up the goddamned Jewish Allies had suffered.

Load more

  54

Copy Link