BRAND STORIES
we needed Wende’s direction, and made sure no one interfered with it.”
The Fine Line between Art THE and Commerce Despite a strong partnership, Zomnir found that re ning and executing a creative vision in today’s complex market posed challenges. She explained, “While social media is great, it creates a disconnect, so people are INDIE always looking for a real connection, and people want to buy from real people. Urban SPIRIT OF Decay walks a ne line between art and commerce. Whenever we create products we try to leave no stone unturned, down to the shade name and the formula on the box.” URBAN Desert Island Strategy Jenny Fine, editor of Beauty Inc., noted that Urban Decay has grown 32%, according to NPD ndings, and asked what was driving DECAY that growth. A range of Urban Decay cosmetics; source: Sephora/Urban Decay. Maintaining an edge, post-acquisition. BY NANCY JEFFRIES
rban Decay, an edgy beauty brand A Partnership for Expansion with an independent spirit, has clearly retained its DNA. Zomnir told Scalamandre how she and “Urban Decay Cosmetics Hamilton met at the Balboa Beach Club in is a cult-following company Newport Beach, California. Zomnir said Urecognized for its success, and continues to she knew immediately that Hamilton “really be a front-runner in the beauty industry,” knew and understood the brand.” Carlotta Jacobson, president, CEW, noted. Hamilton added, “I was always fascinated e key question at Cosmetic Executive with indie brands and felt we needed to talk.” Women’s (CEW) Beauty Insider Hamilton had followed Urban Decay IMPACT POINTS presentation, held April 29, 2015, at New since 1996 and recognized L’Oréal’s need York’s Urban League Club, was how a brand for a brand that specialized in cosmetics. n Creating winning products requires with a “beauty with an edge” identity retains “ is was … a makeup specialist and that no creative stone is left unturned. its cachet following its acquisition by beauty makeup artistry brand,” said Hamilton. powerhouse, L’Oréal in 2012. “ is was something we didn’t have.” n Leading with passion is crucial for Jill Scalamandre, chair, CEW, posed Zomnir noted, “Carol is such a huge part executing a creative vision. the question as she introduced the evening’s of it. It’s a retail, consumer business, and it’s panelists, Carol J. Hamilton, president, about partnership.” n Respecting the DNA and heritage L’Oréal Luxe Division, USA and Wende is partnership ultimately gave Urban of the company has kept it on-point Zomnir, chief creative o cer/founding Decay the ability to expand in an e cient creatively. partner, Urban Decay Cosmetics. “To way, according to Zo mnir. understand a founder’s creative vision is Hamilton added, “We wanted Urban always interesting,” said Scalamandre. Decay to be part of our family and we knew
38 Brand Stories Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2015 Allured Business Media. GCI July/August 2015 www.GCImagazine.com Brand Stories 39
GCI1507-08_Jeffries_fcx.indd 38 6/18/15 9:23 AM we needed Wende’s direction, and made sure no one interfered with it.”
The Fine Line between Art and Commerce Despite a strong partnership, Zomnir found that re ning and executing a creative vision in today’s complex market posed challenges. She explained, “While social media is great, it creates a disconnect, so people are always looking for a real connection, and people want to buy from real people. Urban Decay walks a ne line between art and commerce. Whenever we create products we try to leave no stone unturned, down to the shade name and the formula on the box.”
Desert Island Strategy Jenny Fine, editor of Beauty Inc., noted that Urban Decay has grown 32%, according to From left: Moderator Jenny Fine, editor, Beauty Inc.; Wende Zomnir, chief creative officer/founding partner, NPD ndings, and asked what was driving Urban Decay Cosmetics; Jill Scalamandre, chair, CEW; Carol Hamilton, president, L’Oreal Luxe Division, USA; that growth. and Carlotta Jacobson, president, CEW.
A range of Urban Decay cosmetics; source: Sephora/Urban Decay.
A Partnership for Expansion Zomnir told Scalamandre how she and Hamilton met at the Balboa Beach Club in Newport Beach, California. Zomnir said she knew immediately that Hamilton “really knew and understood the brand.” Hamilton added, “I was always fascinated with indie brands and felt we needed to talk.” Hamilton had followed Urban Decay since 1996 and recognized L’Oréal’s need for a brand that specialized in cosmetics. “ is was … a makeup specialist and makeup artistry brand,” said Hamilton. “ is was something we didn’t have.” Zomnir noted, “Carol is such a huge part of it. It’s a retail, consumer business, and it’s about partnership.” is partnership ultimately gave Urban Decay the ability to expand in an e cient way, according to Zomnir. Hamilton added, “We wanted Urban Decay to be part of our family and we knew
38 Brand Stories GCI July/August 2015 www.GCImagazine.com Brand Stories 39
GCI1507-08_Jeffries_fcx.indd 39 6/18/15 9:23 AM BRAND STORIES
“We try to hit all the aspects of the product,” said Zomnir. “ e Nakeds, for example”—which Fine noted have spawned many imitators—“represent a neutral palette that was agreed upon by four individuals in the team, who each suggested their favorites. ese appeal to a wide variety of women. is is my desert island strategy: What do I bring if I’m stuck on a desert island? We had no idea we’d do as well.” Hamilton added, “What impressed me the most was the quality of the shades and formulas. Because of the special attention to every aspect and every detail, it kind of broke the bank on everything.” Zomnir noted that while the creative team knew they would do a Naked II palette and launch into other areas with Nakeds, they spent a lot of time working on their skin formulations. “I wouldn’t say we o cially market test,” she explained. “I start from the gut and then look backwards from the numbers and see if my gut worked. Zomnir noted that in order to stay inspired, “You have to be open to everything. For example, I was in a restaurant bathroom recently and I was inspired by the oor, which is now part of our packaging.” Wear It, Live It, Love It Hamilton commented on the diversity and ongoing evolution of today’s cosmetic market, while Zomnir added, “ e customer wants to be who she is. We use social media to connect with our followers. ere is a lot of real, organic engagement with our followers on social media. It’s interesting, on my own Instagram, if I show pictures of my children, I lose followers. My followers want to see dirty makeup.” Her mantra? “Wear it, live it, love it.” e new Urban Decay store is a testament to that mission. Referred to by Zomnir as an “experiential lab,” the Urban Decay store is intended to “o er our customers a di erent experience, to be immersed in the brand. It’s all about learning, tweaking and modifying.” In response to a question about her leadership style, Zomnir said, “You have to lead by example. If you’ve got the passion, then everyone on the team will have it. e team fosters an environment where everyone is open to challenge.” Responding to a question about her vision for the brand, Zomnir replied, “We love the juxtaposition of the really beautiful and the not. When you walk around New York City and you see something great and also something crumbling, that’s key.” Hamilton noted that, as a team, “We all inspire each other and interpret in our own way what is right for the brand. e team really works as a unit together and shares all the big decisions, which is unusual for a big company. We also want to have a California vibe, as opposed to Europe or New York.” Hamilton added that, in respecting the DNA of the brand and its Newport Beach o ce, “we keep dogs in our o ces.” at said, the company continues to expand. Hamilton noted that she continues to enjoy seeing how the brand translates internationally: “One of the big joys was to see the brand launch in Russia. It’s so emotional to see how it translates.” Finally, in response to an audience question regarding Zomnir’s dream vision for Urban Decay’s future, she said, “I would like to continue to maintain the integrity of the brand and not lose sight of its unique point of view.” n GCI
NANCY JEFFRIES is a contributing editor for GCI magazine, covering the industry from her New York vantage. Jeffries has been in the publishing business for more than 20 years. Her introduction to the cosmetics and personal care industry began as editor of GCI magazine from 1997–2000; [email protected].
40 Brand Stories GCI July/August 2015
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