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An Analysis of Marketing and Mass Communication Strategies Università degli Studi di Padova Dipartimento di Studi Linguistici e Letterari Corso di Laurea Magistrale in Lingue Moderne per la Comunicazione e la Cooperazione Internazionale Classe LM-38 Tesi di Laurea Cosmetics industry: an analysis of marketing and mass communication strategies. Relatore Prof. Marco Bettiol Laureando Claudia Spironelli n° matr.1179134 / LMLCC Anno Accademico 2018 / 2019 1 2 CONTENTS Introduction ........................................................................................................................................ 5 1. The beginning of the cosmetics industry .................................................................................. 9 1.1 The importance of culture to create value ................................................................................ 12 1.2 The role of media and the rise of mass market ........................................................................ 18 1.3 Social, personal, psychological factors that influence(d) consumer’s behavior and the purchase intention .......................................................................................................................... 22 2. Globalization of beauty ideals ................................................................................................. 29 2.1 Online marketing ...................................................................................................................... 34 2.1.1 Beauty subscription-based online services ....................................................................... 39 2.2 Standardization or adaptation in cosmetics websites? ............................................................. 42 2.3 Consumers’ awareness of new cosmetics trends: green cosmetics .......................................... 45 2.3.1 Cosmeceuticals .................................................................................................................. 51 2.4 Packaging and brand image ...................................................................................................... 58 3. Worldwide advertising social media and influencer marketing ......................................... 63 3.1 The emergence of the beauty community ............................................................................. 72 3.2 Influencer marketing ................................................................................................................ 75 3.2.1 The role of authenticity, credibility and intimacy ............................................................. 82 3.2.2 The importance of language in make-up tutorials ............................................................ 85 3.3 How do vlogs influence consumers’ purchase intention in the beauty community? ............... 87 3.3.1 Differences between celebrity and beauty influencer endorsement .................................. 91 3.3.2 Examples of successful beauty channels ........................................................................... 93 Conclusions ..................................................................................................................................... 101 References ....................................................................................................................................... 109 Websites .......................................................................................................................................... 119 Riassunto in italiano ....................................................................................................................... 124 3 4 Introduction From an economic point of view, the cosmetic industry is an important market, in 2017 it was valued, at a global level, around $532b and is expected to grow even more in the following years. Therefore, I decided to write this dissertation to analyze the factors that contribute to this constant growth from an economic but also social, historical, psychological and cultural perspective. My thesis is divided into three main chapters. The first one, entitled ‘The beginning of the cosmetic industry’, describes firstly, how cosmetic substances were used in ancient societies and for which cultural and historical reasons. Secondly, from the past up to the present, it analyzes which factors contributed to the creation of the cosmetic industry and the development of a mass market for cosmetics. Lastly, it presents the psychological aspects that influence consumers’ behavior when it comes to buying cosmetic products. The second chapter, entitled “Globalization of beauty ideals”, describes how the cosmetic industry achieved worldwide success from 1950 to the present. In this chapter an important aspect of e-commerce - i.e. if consumers prefer to buy cosmetic products online and why - is analyzed together with the emergence of beauty subscription-based services and the preference for standardization or adaptation in cosmetic product advertising. Lastly, the chapter outlines how marketing claims on more sustainable and cleaner products create successful cosmetic trends. The third chapter, entitled “Worldwide advertising social media and influencer marketing”, covers one of the most relevant topics for the cosmetic industry in the last few years, which is the use of social media and influencers to create a deeper connection and two-way communication between cosmetic brands and consumers. The first part of this chapter analyzes how the beauty community is structured; the strengths of beauty influencers; how influencers are becoming more and more important for cosmetic brands and members of the beauty community, their abilities to engage consumers and influence people’s opinions about cosmetic products. In the second part, a comparison between beauty influencers or celebrities’ endorsement is presented to understand similarities and differences in driving consumers’ engagement and in which contexts this occurs. At the end of the third chapter examples of successful beauty channels and of partnership with cosmetic brands are provided. 5 My thesis is divided into three main chapters to describe the development of the cosmetic industry from a marketing point of view, and, at the same time, the changes in the social and cultural role of women in this market from ancient societies to the present day. The cosmetic industry started for and thanks to women. As explained in the first chapter, the industry not only values the appearance of women but also their social independence. The cosmetic industry allowed many women to work and to become independent, slowly changing their role in society in a positive way. The use of cosmetic products was, and is, a symbol of freedom and self-expression both for individuals and for a society. This concept is also expressed in the last chapter, where Social Media such as Instagram and YouTube are posited as means of communication that give women the opportunity to inspire and support each other. In the beauty community women who need advice as to the use of cosmetics to express their identity coexist with women who inspire other women to play with their self-expression in a sort of educational yet creative way. Many of those beauty gurus have made a successful career out of this experience. They are able to do what women used to do in the early 1900s, helping other women to solve their problems and meet their needs, inspire them, while achieving social and financial independence. From a marketing perspective, it was important to analyze and compare, firstly, the tools and communication strategies used to make beauty ideals known to women in the past and in the present. Secondly, a comparison of psychological, cultural and social factors which influenced consumers’ purchasing behavior throughout the development of this industry is provided. and changes in shopping habits for in cosmetic products over time - comparing the preference for a shopping experience in a specialized retailer or an online one - are analysed. Thirdly, in relation to the previous point, it was important to understand how product advertising, products’ packaging, combined with language and especially key words shape a brand’s image and enhance awareness of it. Lastly, the most relevant aspect to take into consideration, from a marketing perspective, was how the relationship between cosmetic brands and consumers changed and improved thanks to Social Media. With regard to the cosmetic industry, the communication between brands and consumers and the expression of a brand’s image is fundamental for success in the industry. The switch from a direct, one-way communication to a two-way one thanks to Social Media, changed not only the way in which consumers perceive a cosmetic brand, but also how consumers get informed about it, and how they get to know about a product or a beauty technique before purchasing cosmetics. This suggests that traditional 6 advertising and traditional marketing strategies are no longer sufficient to create and maintain new customers. Therefore, in the following pages a research is presented on the marketing and mass communication strategies that have made and make this industry grow more and more, taking into consideration the most recent and up-to-date scientific literature but also images and examples from Social Media websites. 7 8 1. The beginning of the cosmetics industry The term ‘cosmetics’ refers to any kind of substance that is applied to the body and/or the face in order to improve its appearance. According to the Oxford Dictionary,
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