20_008683 bindex.qxp 11/14/06 2:18 PM Page 267
Index
See also Accommodations, Restaurant, and Cafe indexes, below.
GENERAL INDEX Alessi, 208, 210, 216 Arciliuto, 226 Alexanderplatz, 226 Ares Ludovisi, 160 Alexander VI Borgia, Pope, Ariccia, 238 AAA, 28 5, 138, 144, 162 Armani, Giorgio, 214 AARP, 35 Alfieri, 217 Arnolfo di Cambio, 15, 136, Above and Beyond Tours, Alien, 223 177–178 34–35 Alinari, 218 Arsenale, 214 Access-Able Travel Source, 34 Alpheus, 224 Art and artists, 14–18. See also Accessible Journeys, 34 Altar of Peace, 167, 193 Art museums; Churches and Accommodations, 73–101. See American Express, 27–28, cathedrals; and specific also Accommodations Index 67, 179 artists near the airport, 101 American Foundation for the books about, 43 near ancient Rome, 83–85 Blind (AFB), 34 Art and Monuments Under the best bets, 8–10 Anatriello Argenteria Antica e Stars, 167 near Campo de’ Fiori, 85–87 Moderna Roma, 220 Art galleries, 211 Fregene, 241 Ancient Rome, 4, 59, 144–157, ArtImport, 211 Palestrina, 237 180–189 Art museums near the Pantheon, 87–89 accommodations near, 83–85 reservation services, 147 Parioli, 100–101 art and architecture, 14, 19 Capitoline Museum, 14, near Piazza Barberini, 80–83 books about, 43 153–154 near Piazza del Popolo, 90–96 brief history of, 246–251 Galleria Borghese, 17, 51, 168 near Piazza Navona, 87–89 guided tours, 179 Galleria Colonna, 2, 155–156 reservations, 73 map, 145 Galleria d’Arte Decorativa, near the Spanish Steps, 90–96 restaurants near, 109–112 166 near Stazione Termini, 74–80 sights and attractions, Galleria Doria Pamphilj, surfing for, 36 144–157 158, 202 taxes, 73–74 walking tour, 180–189 Galleria Nazionale d’Arte tipping, 72 Andrea Doria Room, 158 Moderna, 17, 169 Trastevere, 100 Antica Erboristeria Montemartini Museum, near the Vatican, 96–100 Romana, 212 174–175 near Via Veneto, 80–83 Antiques, 210–211 Museo della Civilità Romana, Viterbo, 244 Aphrodite of Cyrene, 174 175 what’s new in, 1 Apollo Belvedere, 141 Museo Nazionale Cerite Ad Antiqua Domus, 211 Apollo from Veio, 169 (Cerveteri), 242 Addresses, finding, 58 Appian Way, 6, 64, 169–172 Museo Nazionale di Palazzo Ai Monasteri, 212 Ara Pacis (Altar of Peace), Venezia, 15, 156 Airfares, 36,COPYRIGHTED 39–40 167, 193 MATERIALMuseo Nazionale di Villa Airlines, 37–38 Architecture, 18–23. See also Giulia, 14, 169, 242 package tours, 41–42 specific architects and Museo Nazionale Romano, telephone numbers and Web buildings 160, 172, 174 sites, 264–265 books about, 43 Museo Palatino, 49, 150 Airports, 56, 57 glossary of terms, 258–260 National Etruscan Museum, accommodations, 101 Arch of Constantine, 14, 169, 242 security tips, 38–40 14, 49, 146 Palazzo Altemps, 160–161 Air travel, 37–38 Arch of Septimius Severus, Palazzo Barberini, 2, 166, insurance, 32 148, 182 236–237 Albano, 239 Arch of Titus, 150, 180, 184 Palazzo Corsini, 176–177, 206 Alberto di Castro, 211 20_008683 bindex.qxp 11/14/06 2:18 PM Page 268
268 INDEX
Art museums (cont.) Baths of Diocletian, 59, 174 food market, 13, 161, 218 Palazzo dei Conservatori, Battelli di Roma, 155 restaurants near, 112–115 149, 153–154 Beaches Canopo (Canopus), 234 Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, Fregene, 241 Canova, Antonio, 17, 51, 125, 174, 200 Ostia, 240 136, 168, 169, 195 Tarquinia National Museum, Beer, 105 Capitoline Hill (Campidoglio), 242–243 Belvedere Torso, 140–141 8, 21, 48, 153, 222, 245 Vatican Museums, 50, 136, Benetton, 214 Capitoline Museum, 14, 138–143 Berlusconi, Silvio, 255–256 153–154 Art Nouveau, 74, 230 Bernini, Giovanni Lorenzo, 6, Capitoline Venus, 153 ATAC (Azienda Tramvie e Auto- 17, 22, 136–137, 143, 160, Capitoline Wolf, 153 bus del Comune di Roma), 168, 205, 236–237 Capitolium (Ostia), 241 65–66 Four Rivers Fountain, Cappella Sistina, 16, 50, 138, ATM machines, 28, 29 17, 50, 160 141–142 Attila (the Hun), 251 tomb of, 172 books about, 43 Augustus, 43, 156, 157, 167, Triton Fountain, 7–8, 59, 166 Caracalla, Baths of, 19, 154 182, 186, 188, 190, 193, Big Mama, 226 opera at, 55, 223 248–249 Biking, 4 Caravaggio, 17, 140, 154, 158, Forum of, 48, 151, 187 Black Out, 224 166, 167, 177, 205, 237 Mausoleum (Mausoleo Blom, 224 Galleria Borghese, 17, 51, 168 Augusteo), 168, 193 Bocca della Verità, 149, 157 San Luigi dei Francesi, 17, Aula Ottagona, 174 Boccioni, Umberto, 17, 169 161, 201 Aventine Hill, 63 Bone Church, 166–167 Carnevale, 30 Azienda Autonoma di Turismo, Books, recommended, 42–44 Car rentals, 67 233 Bookstores, 211 Websites and telephone num- Borghese Gallery, 17, 51, 168 bers, 36, 265–266 Borghese Palace, 193–194 Car travel, 57, 66–67 Babysitters, 67 Borgia Apartments, 138 Casa Diana (Ostia), 241 Bagagli, 216 Borromini, Francesco, 22, 59, Casagrande, 217 Baggage. See Luggage 154–155, 193, 196, 236 Castel Gandolfo, 239 Baldacchino, at St. Peter’s Botticelli, Sandro, 142, 164 Castelli Romani, 237–240 Basilica, 136–137 Bramante, Donato d’Agnolo, Castel Sant’Angelo, Ballet, 223 21, 136, 141, 161, 176, 229 51, 144, 196 Banks, 27–29, 67 Brighenti, 217 Castroni, 215 Barberini Palace, 2, 22, 166, Brioni, 214 Catacombs of St. Callixtus 236–237 Buccone, 221 (Catacombe di San Callisto), Baroque art and architecture, Bucket shops, 39–40 54, 170, 172 overview, 17, 21–22 Bufalini Chapel, 157 Catacombs of St. Domitilla Bars, 227–232 Bulgari, 216 (Catacombe di San wine, 11, 232 Buses, 56–57, 65–66 Domitilla), 54, 172 Basilicas. See Churches and Byzantine art, overview, 14–15 Catacombs of St. Sebastian cathedrals (Catacombe di San Basilica Aemilia, 182 Sebastiano), 172 Basilica di San Clemente, Cabs, 56–57, 66, 72 Cavallini, Pietro, 15, 177–178, 15, 154, 171 Caere (Cerveteri), 242 204 Basilica di San Giovanni in Cafés, 227–232. See also Café Cecilia Metella, Tomb of, 6, 170 Laterano, 15, 154–155 Index Cellini, Benvenuto, 144, 196 Basilica di San Paolo Fuori le Calendar of events, 30–31 Centers for Disease Control Mura, 7, 15, 175–176 Caligula, 150, 182, 238, 250 and Prevention, 33 Basilica di San Pietro, Calling of St. Matthew Cerveteri (Caere), 242 50, 136–138 (Caravaggio), 161 Chiaramonti Museum, 138 Basilica di Santa Maria Campanile (leather goods), 217 Chiesa del Gesù, 21, 201–202 Maggiore, 15, 59, 172 Campari, 105 Chiesas. See Churches and Basilica Julia, 148, 183 Campidoglio, 8, 21, 48, 153, cathedrals Basilica of Constantine, 222, 245 Children, families with 19, 150, 184 Campo de’ Fiori, 5, 51, best accommodations for, 9, 85 Basilica Ulpia, 48, 152, 188 161–162, 200 best restaurant for, Baskin, Leonard, 140 accommodations near, 85–87 12, 126–127 Baths of Caracalla, 19, 154 brief description of, 62 fashion for, 215 opera at, 55, 223 cafés, 229 20_008683 bindex.qxp 11/14/06 2:18 PM Page 269
GENERAL INDEX 269
toy store, 221 Santa Maria Maggiore, Currency and exchange, travel tips, 25 15, 59, 172 26–28, 67 China and porcelain, 210, 212 Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, Customs regulations, 25–26 Chocolates, 212 20, 158, 160, 201 Cybercafés, 68 Christmas Blessing of the Santa Sabina, 15, 20, 176 Pope, 31 Santi Apostoli Church, 195 Churches and cathedrals Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio, Daddi, Bernardo, 140 architecture, 18–22 164, 190 Dalco’ Nives, 220 Chiesa del Gesù, 21, 201–202 Spirito Santo del Napolitani, Dance clubs, 223–227 concerts in, 7 199 Dance troupes, 223 Palestrina Duomo, 236 Trinitá dei Monti Church, Davide Cenci, 215 St. Paul Outside the Walls, 49, 190, 192 Da Vinci, Leonardo, 16, 140, 7, 15, 175–176 Viterbo Duomo, 244 141, 253 St. Peter in Chains, 16, Ciampino Airport, 56 Da Vinci Code (Brown), 44 31, 156 Cimitero Monumentale dei Da Vinci International Airport, St. Peter’s Basilica, Padri Cappuccini, 166–167 56, 57 50, 136–138 Cimitero Protestante, 63, 175 accommodations, 101 San Agostino Church, 201 Circus Maximus (Circo Mas- De Chirico, Giorgio, 18, 140, San Bartolomeo Church, 202 simo), 59, 152–153, 189, 251 169, 231 San Biagio, 198 Citibank, 67 Degli Effetti, 2, 215 San Clemente Basilica, Città Nascosta, 171 Dentists, 67 15, 154, 171 Classical music, 7, 222–223 Department stores, 212–213 San Dorotea, 206 Claudius, 43, 238, 240, 250 Design, Italian, 208, 210, San Eligio degli Orefici, 199 Clement VIII, Pope, 143, 196 211, 216 San Filippo Neri, 198 Clement XIII, Pope, 136 Diego Percossi Papi, 216 San Francesco a Ripa, 205 Cleopatra, 178, 195, 248 Dining. See Restaurant Index San Giovanni dei Fiorentini, Climate, 29–30 and Restaurants 196, 198 Clothing. See Fashion Diocletian, 59, 174, 250 San Giovanni dei Genovesi, Club and music scene, 223–227 Dionysus with Satyr, 160 204 COIN, 212 Disabilities, travelers with, 34 San Giovanni in Laterano, Collection of Modern Religious Discount shopping, 2, 213 15, 154–155 Art, 138, 140 Disfunzioni Musicali, 219 San Lorenzo in Lucina, 194 Collegio di Propoganda Fide, Doctors, 67–68 San Luigi dei Francesi, 192–193 Dominici, 220 17, 161, 201 Colosseum (Colosseo), 19, 48, Domitian, 62, 144, 150, 151, San Marcello al Corso, 195 59, 144, 146, 186, 228 187, 200, 239, 249 San Michele a Ripa Grande, Column of Phocas, 183 Stadium of, 185–186 204 Concorso Ippico Domus Augustana, 185 San Pietro in Vincoli, 16, 31, Internazionale, 31 Domus Aurea, 146–147, 171 156 Confetteria Moriondo e Donatello, 157 Santa Cecilia in Trastevere, Gariglio, 212 Drugstores, 68 63, 177–178, 204 Conservatori, Palazzo dei, The Dying Gaul, 14, 153 Santa Maria Antigua, 150 149, 153–154 Santa Maria d’Aracoeli, 15, Consolidators, 39–40 153, 157 Constantine, 136, 153–155, Easter Sunday, 30 Santa Maria della Pace, 22, 172, 184, 240, 250–251 Egyptian-Gregorian 161, 200 Arch of, 14, 49, 146 Museum, 140 Santa Maria della Scala, Basilica of, 19, 150, 184 Egyptian obelisk, 51, 136, 167 205–206 Consulates, 68 Elderhostel, 35 Santa Maria dell’Orazione e Convent of Santa Maria della Electricity, 68 Morte, 199 Verita (Viterbo), 244 Embassies, 68 Santa Maria dell’Orto, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 58 Emergencies, 68 204–205 Cortona, Pietro da, 17, 22, 237 Emporio Armani, 214 Santa Maria del Mira-coli, 62 Cosmetics, 212 Enjoy Rome, 58, 73 Santa Maria di Montesanto, 62 Credit cards, 29 Entry requirements, 24–25 Santa Maria in Cosmedin, C.u.c.i.n.a., 216 Epiphany, 30 20, 149, 157, 189 Cuisine, Roman, 104 Escorted tours, 42 Santa Maria in Trastevere, Curia (Senate House), 148, 182 Etruscan-Gregorian 63, 178 Museum, 140 20_008683 bindex.qxp 11/14/06 2:18 PM Page 270
270 INDEX
Etruscans, 140, 242–243 Florentine Church, 196, 198 Fountain of the Tortoises, art of, 14 Flower market, 64, 218 7, 163, 222 brief history of, 246–247 Fonclea, 226 Fountain of the Triton, Cerveteri, 242 Fontana, Carlo, 136, 178, 195 7–8, 59, 166 National Etruscan Museum, Fontana, Domenico, 98, 172 Fountains, 7–8, 72, 136 14, 169, 242 Fontana dei Draghi (Villa Four Rivers Fountain, Tarquinia, 242–243 d’Este), 234 17, 50, 160 winemaking, 104 Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, Fra Angelico, 16, 138, 140, Euro currency, 26–28, 67 17, 50, 160 160, 237 Ex Ante, 216 Fontana dei Trevi. See Trevi Fragiacomo, 220 Eyewear, 2, 213 Fountain Francesco Rogani, 217 Fontana delle Api, 166 Frascati, 239–240 Fontana delle Tararughe, restaurants, 239–240 Fabrics, shopping for, 7, 163, 222 Frascati wine, 6, 105, 239 210, 213 Fontana dell’Organo Idraulico Fratelli Bassetti, 213 Families with children (Villa d’Este), 234 Fregene, 241 best accommodations for, 9, 85 Fontana dell Ovato (Villa Frommers.com, 36 best restaurant for, 12, d’Este), 234 126–127 Fontana del Moro, 160 fashion for, 215 Fontana del Tritone, 7–8, Galleria Borghese, 17, 51, toy store, 221 59, 166 168 travel tips, 25 Fontana di Nettuno, 160 Galleria Colonna, 2, 155–156 Farnese Gardens, 150, 186 Fontana di Vetro (Villa Galleria d’Arte Decorativa, 166 Fascist architecture, 23 d’Este), 234 Galleria Doria Pamphilj, Fashion (clothing), 208, Food, shopping for, 210, 215. 158, 202 212–215 See also Food markets Galleria Nazional d’Arte Antica for children, 215 chocolates, 212 Palazzo Barberini, 2, 166, department stores, 212–213 Food markets, 205, 218–219 236–237 discount, 213 Campo de’ Fiori, 13, 161, 218 Palazzo Corsini, 176–177, 206 leather goods, 217 Fori Imperiali, 48, 59, 151–152 Galleria Nazionale d’Arte for men, 214 walking tour, 186–188 Moderna, 17, 169 sportswear, 215 Fornari & Fornari, 220 Gallery of Decorative Art, 166 for women, 214–215 Foro Italico, 222 Gardens, 178–179 Fausto Santini, 220 Fortuna Primigenia Farnese Gardens, 150, 186 Favorite Rome experiences, (Palestrina), 236 Pincio Gardens, 4–5, 179 4–8 Forum of Augustus, 48, Vatican Gardens, 62, 143 Federico Buccellati, 217 151, 187 Villa Borghese, 4, 64, Fellini, Federico, 77, 149, Forum of Julius Caesar, 48, 168–169, 178 202, 231 152, 188 Villa dei Medici Gardens, 179 Fendi, 217 Forum of Nerva, 48, 151, 187 Villa d’Este (Tivoli), 234 Ferragamo, 220 Forum of Trajan, 152, 188 Gay and lesbian travelers Ferragosto, 31 Forum Romano, 49, 147–150, bookstores, 211 Festa della Primavera, 31 180 information and resources, Festa delle Catene, 31 brief description of, 59 34–35 Festa di Noantri, 31 guided tours, 151 nightclubs, 226–227 Festa di San Giuseppe, 30 map, 181 restaurant, 128 Festa di San Pietro, 31 at night, 222 Gelato, 7, 106, 200, 228, 261 Festa di Santa Francesca walking tour, 180, 182–184 Genzano, 238 Romana, 30 Fountain of Glass (Villa Gesù, Chiesa del, 21, 201–202 Festa di Sant’Agnese, 30 d’Este), 234 Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill), Festivals, 30–31 Fountain of Neptune, 160 5, 176 Fiesta, 224 Fountain of the Bees, 166 Gift stores, 216 Films, set in Rome, 149 Fountain of the Dragons (Villa Gilda, 224–225 Fiumicino (Leonardo da Vinci d’Este), 234 Gilda on the Beach (Fregene), International Airport), 56, 57 Fountain of the Four Rivers, 2, 225 accommodations, 101 17, 50, 160 Giolitti, 106, 227, 231 Flavian Palace, 185 Fountain of the Hydraulic Giorgio Armani, 214 Flea markets, 8, 219 Organ (Villa d’Este), 234 Giotto, 15, 140, 155 Fountain of the Moor, 160 20_008683 bindex.qxp 11/14/06 2:18 PM Page 271
GENERAL INDEX 271
Giovanni B. Panatta Fine Art Shop, 211 Ice cream (gelato), 7, 106, Lace, shopping for, 210 Givenchy, 214 200, 228, 261 La Fornarina (Raphael), 166 Glassware, 210, 212 Il Messaggero, 222 Language Golden House of Nero, Il Sodoma, 166, 178 basic vocabulary, 257–258 146–147, 171 Imperial Forums, 48, 59, glossary of architectural Grande Ludovisi, 160 151–152 terms, 258–260 Grappa, 105 walking tour, 186–188 menu terms, 260–263 Greenmarkets. See Food Imperial Rostra, 148, 182–183 numbers, 258 markets Information sources, 24, 57–58 Laocoön, 141 Grispigni, 216 Insurance, 31–32 Lapis Niger, 182 Gucci, 217 International Association for Largo Goldoni, 193, 194 Guided tours, 179 Medical Assistance to Travel- La Rinascente, 213 ers (IAMAT), 33 Last Judgment International Gay and Lesbian (Michelangelo), 142 Hadrian’s Villa (Tivoli), Travel Association (IGLTA), 34 Laura Biagiotti, 214 55, 233–234 International Horse Show, 31 Layout of Rome, 58 Harry’s Bar, 228 International Medical Leather goods, 217. See also Health concerns, 32–33 Center, 67 Shoe stores Health insurance, 32, 33 Internet access, 68 Legal aid, 68 Hercules, 141 Isola Tiberina, 6, 155, 202 Leonardo da Vinci International Hippodrome, 185–186 Italian design, 208, 210, 211, Airport (Fiumicino), 56, 57 History of Rome, 245–256 216 accommodations, 101 books about, 42–43 Italian Government Tourist Lesbian travelers. See Gay and Holidays, 30 Board, 24 lesbian travelers Hollywood on the Tiber, 149 Italian language. See Language Lido di Ostia, 240 Holy Roman Empire, 251–252 Italian railpasses, 40–41 Lily of Florence, 220 Holy Week, 30 Italy Rail ’n Drive, 41 Lingerie, 217–218 Horse Show, 31 Itineraries, suggested, 45–55 Liquor laws, 69 Hospitals, 67–68 in 1 Day, 45–50 Liquor stores, 210, 221 Hotels, 73–101. See also in 2 Days, 50–51 Live music. See Music Accommodations Index in 3 Days, 51–55 Locanda Atlantide, 225 near the airport, 101 IVA (VAT) taxes, 70–71, Lost-luggage insurance, 32 near ancient Rome, 83–85 73–74, 207 Luggage best bets, 8–10 lost-luggage insurance, 32 near Campo de’ Fiori, 85–87 shipping your, 39 Fregene, 241 Jackie O, 225 shopping for, 218 Palestrina, 237 Janiculum Hill, 5, 176 storage/lockers, 69 near the Pantheon, 87–89 Jazz clubs, 226 Lupa Capitolina, 153 Parioli, 100–101 Jewelry stores, 216–217 Lyceum Apollo, 174 near Piazza Barberini, 80–83 Jewish Ghetto, 62, 161–163 near Piazza del Popolo, 90–96 restaurants, 112–115 near Piazza Navona, 87–89 Jewish Museum, 162 Maderno, Carlo, 22, 59, 136, reservations, 73 Jonathan’s Angels, 2, 225 166, 196, 239 near the Spanish Steps, 90–96 Julius Caesar, 43, 86, 147–148, agazines, 69 near Stazione Termini, 74–80 151, 156, 158, 178, 183, Magic Fly, 225 surfing for, 36 186, 248 Mail, 69 taxes, 73–74 Forum of, 48, 152, 188 Marino, 237 tipping, 72 Temple of, 183 Markets, 218–219. See also Trastevere, 100 Julius II, Pope, 16, 99, 141, 144, Food markets near the Vatican, 96–100 156, 196, 198 Mars of Todi, 140 near Via Veneto, 80–83 Martyrdom of St. Matthew Viterbo, 244 (Caravaggio), 161, 201 what’s new in, 1 Keats, John, 175, 231 Mausoleo Augusteo, 168, 193 House of Livia, 186 Keats-Shelley House, Max Mara, 215 House of the Vestal Virgins, 49, 163, 192 McArthurGlen Designer 149–150, 183 Kids. See Children Outlet, 2, 213 Housewares, 208, 210, 216 Medic Alert Identification Tag, 33 20_008683 bindex.qxp 11/14/06 2:18 PM Page 272
272 INDEX
Medical insurance, 32, 33 Mussolini, Benito, 23, 42, 58, MEDI-CALL, 67 151, 156, 175, 180, 187, 193, Package tours, 41–42 Medications, 33 196, 198, 254–255 Palace of the Holy Steps, 155 Medici Gardens, 179 Palatine Hill (Palatino), 4, 49, Mercato Andrea Doria, 218 59, 150, 184–186, 245 Mercato dei Fiori, 64, 218 National Etruscan Museum, Palatine Museum, 49, 150 Mercato delle Stampe, 14, 169, 242 Palazzeto dello Sport, 23 218–219 National Gallery of Ancient Art Palazzetto Zuccaro, 190, 192 Mercato di Testaccio, 219 Palazzo Barberini, 2, 166, Palazzo Altemps, 160–161 Mercato di Via Sannio, 219 236–237 Palazzo Baldoca/Muccioli/Rodd, Metro (Metropolitana), 64–65 Palazzo Corsini, 176–177, 206 199 Michelangelo, 16, 21, 136–138, National Gallery of Modern Palazzo Barberini, 2, 22, 166, 153, 157–158, 160, 161, 174, Art, 17, 169 236–237 196, 198, 199, 253 National Museum of Palazzo Palazzo Borghese, 193–194 books about, 43 Venezia, 15, 156 Palazzo Braschi, 200 Moses, 16, 156 National Roman Museum, Palazzo Chigi, 194 Pietà, 16, 50, 136 160–161, 172, 174 Palazzo Cisterno, 199 Sistine Chapel, 16, 43, 50, Necropolis Palazzo Corsini, 176–177, 206 138, 141–142 Cerveteri, 242 Palazzo dei Conservatori, 149, Modigliani, Amadeo, Tarquinia, 242, 243 153–154 18, 95, 169 Vatican, 137, 171 Palazzo del Quirinale, 164, 190 Mondello Ottica, 2, 213 Neighborhoods, 59–64. See Palazzo di Montecitorio, 195 Money matters, 26–29, 67 also specific neighborhoods Palazzo Falconieri, 199 Monte Cavo, 238 Nemi, 238 Palazzo Farnese, 21, 161, 199 Monte Mario, 64 restaurants, 238 Palazzo Laterano, 155 restaurant, 131–132 Nemi Lake, 238 Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, Montemartini Museum, Neoclassical art and architec- 174, 200 174–175 ture, overview, 17–18, 22–23 Palazzo of the Spanish Monumental Cemetery of the Nero, 6, 63, 136, 150, 167, Establishment, 199 Capuchin Brothers, 166–167 231, 250 Palazzo Papale (Viterbo), 244 Morandi, Giorgio, 18, 169 Golden House of, Palazzo Ricci, 199 Mosaics, shopping for, 210, 219 146–147, 171 Palazzo Ruspoli (Nemi), 238 Moses (Michelangelo), 16, 156 Nerva’s Forum, 48, 151, 187 Palazzo Ruspoli (Rome), 194 Mouth of Truth, 149, 157 Newspapers, 69, 222 Palazzo Sacchetti, 198 Movies, set in Rome, 149 Nightclubs and dance clubs, Palazzo Spada, 161, 199 Musei Vaticani, 50, 138–143 223–227 Palazzo Varese, 199 map, 139 Nightlife, 222–232 Palazzo Venezia, 15, 156 Museo Capitolino, 14, 153–154 bars and cafés, 227–232 Palestrina, 236–237 Museo Centrale Di Montemar- club and music scene, restaurants, 237 tini, 174–175 223–227 Palestrina Duomo, 236 Museo della Civilità Romana, current listings, 222 The Pantheon, 4, 19, 49, 175 performing arts, 222–223 157–158, 201 Museo delle Navi (Nemi), 238 what’s new in, 2 accommodations near, 87–89 Museo Nazionale Cerite Nile Mosaic, 2, 237 bars and cafés near, 229–230 (Cerveteri), 242 North American College, 142 brief description of, 62 Museo Nazionale di Palazzo map, 159 Venezia, 15, 156 restaurants near, 115–121 Museo Nazionale di Villa Octagonal Hall, 174 Papal apartments, 136, 138 Giulia, 14, 169, 242 Officina Farmaceutica di Santa Papal audiences, 142 Museo Nazionale Romano, Maria Novella, 212 Paper goods, 210, 221 160–161, 172, 174 Opera, 5, 55, 222, 223 Parco dei Mostri (Viterbo), 244 Museo Palatino, 49, 150 Oratorio del Gonfalone, 198 Parco della Musica, 222 Museo Storico, 137 Organized tours, 179 Parioli, 64 Museum of Roman Orti Farnesiani, 150, 186 accommodations, 100–101 Civilization, 175 Ostia, 240–241 restaurants, 131 Music Ostia Antica, 19, 240–241 Park of the Monsters classical, 7, 222–223 Ovato Fountain (Villa (Viterbo), 244 jazz, 226 d’Este), 234 Pasqua (Easter Sunday), 30 opera, 5, 222, 223 Passports, 24, 25, 69–70 shopping for, 219 Pauline (Borghese) Chapel, 172 20_008683 bindex.qxp 11/14/06 2:18 PM Page 273
GENERAL INDEX 273
Pensioni, overview, 73 at night, 222 Raphael, 16, 136, 140, 147, Performing arts, 222–223 restaurants near, 115–121 166, 178, 199, 206, 226, Perfumes, 212 Piazza Piscinula, 202–203 229, 237 Peruzzi, Baldassare, 21, 178 Piazza San Giovanni in Galleria Borghese, 17, 51, 168 Pharmacies, 68 Laterano, 155 Rooms (Vatican), 141 Piazza Barberini, 164, 166 Piazza San Lorenzo Santa Maria della Pace, 22, accommodations, 80–83 (Viterbo), 244 161, 200 brief description of, 59 Piazza San Pantaleo, 200 tomb, 158 restaurants, 108–109 Piazza San Pietro, 50, 133, Regolini-Galassi tomb, 140 Triton Fountain, 7–8, 59, 166 136, 222 Reliefs’ Tomb (Cerveteri), 242 Piazza Campo de’ Fiori. See Piazza Sant’Angelo, 143, 196 Religious objects, shopping Campo de’ Fiori Piazza Sidney Sonnino, for, 210 Piazza Colonna, 194 203–204 Renaissance Rome, 43, 253. cafés, 230–231 Piazza SS. Apostoli, 195 See also specific artists and Piazza del Campidoglio, Piazza Venezia, 58, 152 buildings 8, 21, 48, 153 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, food architecture, 21 Piazza della Bocca della Verità, market, 219 art, 16 5–6, 157, 189 Picasso, Pablo, 17, 87, 91, 140 walking tour, 195–202 Piazza della Repubblica, Pickpocketing, 33, 66, 70, Renato Balestra, 215 59, 222 202, 219 Restaurants, 102–131. See also Piazza della Rotonda, Pietà (Michelangelo), Restaurant Index 49, 157–158 16, 50, 136 near ancient Rome, 109–112 cafés, 13, 201, 229–230 Pinacoteca (Vatican), 140 best bets, 10–13 Piazza della Trinità dei Monti, Pincio Gardens, 4–5, 179 near Campo de’ Fiori, 162, 190, 192 Pinturicchio, 138, 142, 155–157 112–115 Piazza delle Coppelle, eating, Pio Clementino Museum, Castel Gandolfo, 239 13, 117, 230 140–141 Frascati, 239–240 Piazza del Plebiscito Piper, 225–226 Fregene, 241 (Viterbo), 243 Pizza (pizzeria), 102–103, 111 glossary of menu terms, Piazza del Popolo, 51, 58, 167 best, 11, 121 260–263 accommodations near, 90–96 Planning your trip, 24–44 hours, 103–104 brief description of, 62 Police, 70 near the Jewish Ghetto, cafés, 231 Politics, 255–256 112–115 restaurants near, 121–125 Ponte Fabricio, 6, 202 in Monte, 131–132 Piazza del Quirinale, 164, 190 Ponte Sant’Angelo, 143, 196 Nemi, 238 Piazza di Montecitorio, Porcelain and china, 210, 212 Palestrina, 237 194–195 Porta Portese Flea Market, near the Pantheon, 115–121 Piazza di Pasquino, 200 8, 219 Parioli, 131 Piazza di San Callisto, 205 Porta Settimiana, 206 near Piazza Barberini, Piazza di San Cosimato, 205 Post offices, 69 108–109 Piazza di San Egidio, 205 Prati, 64 near Piazza del Popolo, Piazza di Santa Maria in Traste- accommodations, 96–97 121–125 vere, 205, 231–232 Prefecture of the Papal near Piazza Navona, 115–121 restaurants, 13, 127 Household, 142 practical tips, 102–104 Piazza di Spagna, 49, 67, Prescription medications, 33 San Lorenzo, 107–108 162–164, 192 Prison for Minors, 198 near the Spanish Steps, Piazza d’Oro (Tivoli), 234 Profumeria Materozzoli, 212 121–125 Piazza Farnese, 62 Protestant Cemetery, 63, 175 near Stazione Termini, Piazza G. G. Belli, 203–204 Pyramid of Caius Cestius, 175 105–107 Piazzale delle Corporazioni Testaccio, 130–131 (Ostia), 240 tipping, 72 Piazza Mattei, 7, 163, 222 Quirinal stables, 164 Tivoli, 234, 236 Piazza Navona, 50, 160, 200 Trastevere, 127–130 accommodations near, 87–89 near the Vatican, 125–127 brief description of, 62 Radio Londra, 226 near Via Veneto, 108–109 cafés, 229 Railpasses, 40–41 in Villa Borghese, 130 Four Rivers Fountain, 7, 17, Rainfall, average monthly, 30 Viterbo, 244 50, 160 RAI Symphony Orchestra, what’s new in, 1–2 gelato, 7, 200 7, 222 Restrooms, 70 map, 159 Richard Ginori, 212 20_008683 bindex.qxp 11/14/06 2:18 PM Page 274
274 INDEX
Rocca di Papa, 237, 238 San Bartolomeo Church, 202 Santa Maria in Trastevere, Rococo art and architecture, San Benedetto Church, 63, 178 overview, 17, 21–22 202–203 Santa Maria Maggiore, Roman Castles, 237–240 San Biagio Church, 198 15, 59, 172 Roman Civilization San Clemente Basilica, Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, Museum, 175 15, 154, 171 20, 158, 160, 201, 210 Roman cuisine, 104 San Crisogono Church, Santa Sabina, 15, 20, 176 Roman Empire. See also 203–204 Santi Apostoli Church, 195 Ancient Rome San Dorotea Church, 206 Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio, art and architecture, 14, 19 San Eligio degli Orefici 164, 190 books about, 43 Church, 199 Santuario della Scala Santa, 155 brief history of, 248–251 San Filippo Neri Church, 198 Savelli, 219 Romanesque art and architec- San Francesco a Ripa Scala Reale, 179 ture, overview, 14–15, 20 Church, 205 Scalinata di Spagna. See Roman Forum, 49, 147–150, 180 Sangallo, Antonio da, 21, 161, Spanish Steps brief description of, 59 196, 198, 199 School of Athens (Raphael), 141 guided tours, 151 San Giovanni dei Fiorentini Schostal, 214 map, 181 Church, 196, 198 Scuderie del Quirinale, 164 at night, 222 San Giovanni dei Genovesi Seasons, 29, 37 walking tour, 180, 182–184 Church, 204 Select Italy, 147, 168 Roman Holiday (movie), San Giovanni in Laterano, Senate House (Curia), 148, 182 98, 149, 155, 157 15, 154–155 Senatorium, 48, 153 Roman Republic. See also San Lorenzo, restaurants, Senior travelers, 35 Ancient Rome 107–108 Shelley, Percy Bysshe, 175, 196 brief history of, 247–248 San Lorenzo in Lucina Keats-Shelley House, Roman Ship Museum Church, 194 49, 163, 192 (Nemi), 238 San Luigi dei Francesi, Shipping luggage, 39 Roma Sotteranea (Subter- 17, 161, 201 Shipping purchases home, 207 ranean Rome), 171 San Marcello al Corso Shoe stores, 220 Rome American Hospital, 67–68 Church, 195 Shopping, 207–221 Rome Opera Ballet, 222, 223 San Michele a Ripa Grande, best buys, 208, 210 Rosticceria, about, 103, 111 204 discount, 2, 213 Rostra, 148, 182–183 San Paolo Fuori le Mura, major streets, 207–208 Rubens, Peter Paul, 154, 7, 15, 175–176 shipping purchases home, 207 158, 177 San Pellegrino Quarter tax rebates, 70–71, 207 Rush hours, 63 (Viterbo), 244 what’s new in, 2 San Pietro in Montorio, 21, 176 Sights and attractions, San Pietro in Vincoli, 133–206. See also specific Safety tips, 33–34, 57, 70 16, 31, 156 sights and attractions Sagra dell’Uva, 31 Santa Cecilia in Trastevere, suggested itineraries, 45–55 St. Biagio Church, 198 63, 177–178, 204 walking tours, 180–206 St. Callixtus Catacombs, Santa Francesca Romana, 30 Silver, shopping for, 220 54, 170, 172 Sant’Agnese Fuori le Mura, 30 Sinagoga Romana, 161–162 St. Domitilla Catacombs, Santa Maria Antigua, 150 Siragusa, 218 54, 172 Santa Maria d’Aracoeli, Sistine Chapel, 16, 50, 138, St. Paul Outside the Walls 15, 153, 157 141–142 (Basilica di San Paolo Fuori le Santa Maria della Pace, books about, 43 Mura), 7, 15, 175–176 22, 161, 200 Son et Lumière, 31 St. Peter in Chains (San Pietro Santa Maria della Scala, The Spanish Steps, 49, in Vincoli), 16, 31, 156 205–206 162–164, 192 St. Peter’s Basilica (Basilica di Santa Maria dell’Orazione e accommodations near, 90–96 San Pietro), 50, 136–138 Morte, 199 brief description of, 62 St. Peter’s Square (Piazza San Santa Maria dell’Orto, 204–205 cafés, 231 Pietro), 50, 133, 136, 222 Santa Maria del Mira-coli, 62 restaurants near, 121–125 Salvator Mundi International Santa Maria del Popolo, Spartacus, 6 Hospital, 67 51, 62, 167 Spartacus International Gay Salvi, Nicola, 22, 164, 190 Santa Maria di Montesanto, 62 Guide, 35 San Agostino Church, 201 Santa Maria in Cosmedin, Spazio Sette, 216 20, 149, 157, 189 Special events, 30–31 20_008683 bindex.qxp 11/14/06 2:19 PM Page 275
GENERAL INDEX 275
Spirito Santo del Napolitani Terme di Caracalla, 19, 154 Travel blogs (travelogues), 37 Church, 199 opera at, 55, 223 Traveler’s checks, 28–29 Sportswear, 215 Terme di Diocleziano, 59, 174 Traveling to Rome, 37–41, Stadio Flaminio, 222 Termini. See Stazione Termini 56–57 Stadio Olimpico, 23, 223 Testaccio, 63, 174–176 escorted tours, 42 Stadium of Domitian, 185–186 cafés, 232 packages, 41–42 State Department, U.S., 24, 25, restaurants, 130–131 Travel insurance, 31–32 33–34 Thermopolium (Ostia), 241 Treasury (Vatican), 137 Stationery, 210, 221 Thomas Cook, 27–28, 40 Trenitalia Passes, 41 STA Travel, 40 Three Coins in the Fountain Tre Scalini, 7, 200 Stazione Termini, 56–57, 65–66 (movie), 149, 164, 166 Trevi Fountain, 7, 22, 50, accommodations near, 74–80 Through Eternity Tours, 179 164, 190 brief description of, 59 Tiber Island, 6, 155, 202 films set at, 149 cafés, 228 Tiberius, 150, 167, 184, gelato, 228 luggage storage/lockers, 69 186, 249 at night, 222 restaurants near, 105–107 Tiber River, 5–6, 58, 143, restaurants near, 119, 122 safety tips, 57 195–196 Trimani Wine Store/Bar, Stoneware, 210, 212 Tiles, shopping for, 210, 219 11, 106–107, 221 Stravinskij Bar, 92 Time zone, 72 Trinitá dei Monti Church, Strawberries, in Nemi, 238 Tipping, 72 49, 190, 192 Subterranean Rome, 171 Titian, 51, 140, 154, 158, Trionfale market, 64, 218 Subway, 64–65 166, 168 Trip-cancellation insurance, Synagogue, 161–162 Tivoli, 233–236 31–32 information, 233 Triton Fountain, 7–8, 59, 166 restaurants, 234, 236 Tuscolo, 239 Tad, 215 Toilets, 70 The Talented Mr. Ripley Tomb of Cecilia Metella, 6, 170 (movie), 149 Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, Umbilicus Urbus, 148 Tarquinia, 242–243 152, 188 Underground Rome, 171 Tarquinia National Museum, Torre Argentina Cat Un Ospite a Roma, 222 242–243 Sanctuary, 158 Urban VIII, Pope, 6, 59 Tavola calda, about, 103, 111 Tortoises Fountain, 7, 163, 222 Taxes, 70–71, 73–74, 207 Totilla (the Goth), 152, 189, 251 Taxis, 56–57, 66, 72 Tourist information, 24, 57 Valentino, 214 Teatro dell’Opera, 5, 222, 223 Tours. See also Walking tours Valentino Sport, 215 Teatro di Marcello, 188–189 escorted, 42 Vasari, Giorgio, 43, 141, Teatro Marittimo (Tivoli), guided, 179 156, 198 55, 234 package, 41–42 Vatican City Teatro Olimpico, 223 Tower of the Milizie, 152, accommodations near, Telephone, useful toll-free, 187–188 96–100 264–266 Toy store, 221 brief description of, 62–63 Telephones, 71–72 Train travel, 56–57. See also guided tours, 179 Temperature, average Stazione Termini information, 24, 136 monthly, 30 to Rome, 40–41 map, 137 Tempietto of Bramante, 21, 176 Trajan’s Column, 48, 152, 188 papal audiences, 142 Temple of Antoninus and Trajan’s Forum, 152, 188 post office, 69 Faustina, 183–184 Trajan’s Market, 151, 187 restaurants near, 125–127 Temple of Fortuna Virile, Tram, 65–66 sights and attractions, 133, 189, 192 Transportation, 64–67 136–143 Temple of Julius Caesar, 183 Trastevere, 63, 176–178 Website, 133, 137, 171 Temple of Romulus, 184 accommodations, 100 Vatican Ethnological Temple of Saturn, 148 brief description of, 51 Museum, 140 Temple of the Castors, 183 cafés, 231–232 Vatican Gardens, 62, 143 Temple of the Dioscuri, festivals, 31 Vatican grottoes, 137 148–149 flea market, 8, 219 Vatican Historical Museum, 140 Temple of Vespasian and map, 177 Vatican Library, 143 Titus, 148 restaurants, 13, 127–130 Vatican Museums, 50, 136, Temple of Vesta, 149–150, 183 walking tour, 202–206 138–143 map, 139 20_008683 bindex.qxp 11/14/06 2:19 PM Page 276
276 INDEX
VAT (IVA) taxes, 70–71, Hotel de la Ville Inter-Conti- 73–74, 207 Walking tours, 180–206 nental Roma, 9, 90 Venus Victorious (Canova), 168 ancient Rome, 180–189 Hotel delle Muse, 10, 100 Via Appia Antica, 6, 64, heart of Rome, 190–195 Hotel de Russie, 8, 91–92 169–172 Renaissance Rome, 195–202 Hotel des Artistes, 79–80 Via Borgognona, shopping, 207 Trastevere, 202–206 Hotel d’Inghilterra, 10, 92, 122 Via Condotti, 62, 193 Wanted in Rome, 5, 69, 222 Hotel Donatello, 77 cafés, 231 Water, drinking, 72 Hotel Duca d’Alba, 85 shopping, 208, 214, 216–217 Weather, 29–30 Hotel Eden, 9, 12, 81, 108 Via dei Coronari, shopping, 211 Websites, 24, 36–37, 264–266 Hotel Fiamma, 77 Via dei Fori Imperiali, 48, 49, Wheelchair accessibility, 34 Hotel Forum, 84 58, 151, 152, 187 Wine bars, 11, 232 Hotel Giuliana, 80 Via del Babuino, shopping, 211 Wines, 6–7, 104–105, 237 Hotel Grifo, 85 Via del Corso, 58, 194 Frascati, 239 Hotel Hilton Rome Airport, 101 cafés, 230–231 shopping for, 210, 221 Hotel Italia, 80 shopping, 208 World War II, 91, 239, 254–255 Hotel Locarno, 93 Via della Conciliazione, 196 Hotel Lord Byron, 9, 10, Via del Porto, 204 101, 131 Via di Monte Testaccio, 224 ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Madrid, 95 Via Francesco Crispi, Albergo Cesàri, 88 Hotel Manfredi, 95 shopping, 208 Albergo Del Sole al Pantheon, Hotel Margutta, 96 Via Frattina, shopping, 208 10, 88 Hotel Morgana, 78 Via Giulia, 62, 196, 198–199 Albergo Ristorante Stella Hotel Navona, 89 Via Nazionale, 58 (Palestrina), 237 Hotel Nerva, 84 shopping, 208 Albergo Santa Chiara, 88–89 Hotel Oxford, 83 Via Sacra, 148, 150, 180 Boscolo Hotel Aleph, 82 Hotel Parlamento, 96 Via Sannio, market, 219 Bramante, 98 Hotel Piazza di Spagna, 95 Via Santa Dorotea, 206 Capo d’Africa, 84 Hotel Ponte Sisto, 9, 85 Via Sistina, 164 Casa Banzo, 95–96 Hotel Raphael, 87–88 shopping, 208 Casa di Santa Brigida, 86 Hotel Regno, 83 Via Veneto, 164, 166 Casa Howard, 94 Hotel Sant’Angelo, 99 accommodations, 80–83 Cavalieri Hilton, 11, 64, Hotel Scalinata di Spagna, brief description of, 59 131–132 9–10, 93 cafés, 227–228 Colosseum Hotel, 84–85 Hotel Teatro di Pompeo, 10, 86 restaurants, 108–109 Empire Palace Hotel, 76 The Inn at the Spanish Steps, shopping, 208 Es. Hotel Rome, 74 8, 92 Villa Ada, 64 Exedra, 9, 76–77 Kennedy Hotel, 78 Villa Adriana (Tivoli), 55, Fontanella Borghese, 1, 94 La Conchiglia (Fregene), 241 233–234 Grand Hotel Plaza, 92 La Lumière di Piazza Villa Aldobrandini Grand Hotel Salus e delle di Spagna, 93 (Frascati), 239 Terme (Viterbo), 244 La Residenza, 9, 83 Villa Borghese, 64, The Hassler, 9, 62, 90, 121 Mecenate Palace Hotel, 74–76 168–169, 178 Hotel Adriano, 89 Modigliani, 95 biking, 4 Hotel Alexandra, 82 Nazionale, 88 restaurants, 130 Hotel Alimandi, 98–99 Piranesi, 93–94 Villa dei Medici Gardens, 179 Hotel Aphrodite, 79 Residence Giuggioli, 99–100 Villa d’Este (Tivoli), 55, 234 Hotel Arenula, 86 Residenza Cellini, 78 Villa Doria Pamphili, 4 Hotel Artemide, 74 Residenza Farnese, 85–86 Villa Farnesina, 21, 178, 206 Hotel Atlante Star, 11, 125–126 Residenza Paolo VI, 98 Villa Giulia, 14, 169, 242 Hotel Cancelli Rossi, 101 Rome Marriott Grand Hotel Villa Glori, 64 Hotel Columbia, 9, 77 Flora, 81 Villa Gregoriana (Tivoli), 234 Hotel Columbus, 99 Royal Court, 78 Villa Lante (Viterbo), 244 Hotel Condotti, 94 St. Regis Grand, 8, 76 Villa Torlonia (Frascati), 239 Hotel Contilia, 79 Scott House Hotel, 80 Visitor information, 24, 57–58 Hotel Coronet, 89 Starhotel Michelangelo, 1, 98 Viterbo, 243–244 Hotel Corot, 79 Trastevere Manara, 100 Viterbo Duomo, 244 Hotel degli Aranci, 100 Victoria Roma, 82–83 Vittorio Emanuele Monument, Hotel dei Consoli, 96–97 Villa delle Rose, 79 23, 58, 152, 188 Hotel dei Mellini, 97 Westin Excelsior, 81–82 Vocabulary. See Language 20_008683 bindex.qxp 11/14/06 2:19 PM Page 277
CAFE INDEX 277
RESTAURANTS Gina, 2, 130 Ristorante del Pallaro, Giolitti, 106, 227, 231 11–12, 114 Abruzzi, 111 Glass, 1, 128 Ristorante Giardinaccio, 126 Agata e Romeo, 12, 105 Grand Hotel Salus e delle Ristorante Il Castagnone Albergo Ristorante Adriano Terme (Viterbo), 244 (Nemi), 238 (Tivoli), 234, 236 Grappolo d’Oro Zampanò, 51 Ristorante Il Matriciano, Albergo Ristorante Stella Gusto, 124 12, 126–127 (Palestrina), 237 The Hassler Rooftop Sabatini, 13, 127 Alberto Ciarla, 127 Restaurant, 121 Sapori del Lord Byron, Al Bric, 119 Hostaria dei Bastioni, 127 10, 101, 131 Al Ceppo (The Log), 12, 131 Hostaria Nerone, 111–112 Scoglio di Frisio, 110 Alfredo alla Scrofa, 116 Hosteria dei Pesce, 1, 114 Tram Tram, 110 Al Moro, 122 Il Bacaro, 117 Trattoria San Teodoro, 110 Antica Trattoria del Falcone Il Convivio, 11, 115–116 Trimani Wine Bar, 11, (Tivoli), 236 Il Dito e La Luna, 108 106–107, 221 Antico Arco, 127–128 Il Drappo, 112–113 Vecchia Roma, 7, 114–115 Antico Ristorante Pagnanelli Il Miraggio, 119 (Castel Gandolfo), 239 Il Sanpietrino, 112 Arancia Blu, 107–108 Insalata Ricca, 115, Asinocotto, 128 CAFES 119–120, 127 Aurora 10 da Pino il Antico Caffè della Pace, 229 La Cisterna, 128–129 Sommelier, 108–109 Antico Caffè Greco, 231 La Conchiglia (Fregene), 241 Babington’s Tea Rooms, 192 Autogrill, 230 La Pergola, 11, 131–132 Bar Martini, 186 Bar del Fico, 229 La Rosetta, 115 Boccondivino, 116 Bar Marani, 228 La Terrazza dell’Eden, 12, 108 Bramante, 116–117 Café-Bar di Marzio, 232 L’Eau Vive, 11, 117–118 Cacciani Restaurant (Frascati), Café de Paris, 13, 228 Les Etoiles (The Stars), 239–240 Café Riccioli, 13, 117, 230 11, 125–126 Café-Bar di Marzio, 205 Cafè Rosati, 231 L’Orso, 120 Café de Oriente, 2, 224 Caffè della Pace, 229 Macheroni, 120 Cafe Romano, 122 Caffè Sant’Eustachio, 229 Monte Arci, 106 Cafè Rosati, 51, 124 Caffeterria Canova, 231 Myosotis, 118 Caffeterria Canova, 1, 125 Canova Café, 231 Osteria del Gallo, 120 Camponeschi, 112 Ciampini, 230 Osteria dell’Antiquario, 118 Caruso Café de Oriente, 2, 224 Crudo, 229 Osteria dell’Ingegno, 118 Casina Valadier, 1–2, 130 Di Rienzo, 13, 201, 208, 230 Otello alla Concordia, 125 Cesare, 126 Enoteca Antica, 232 Palazzo del Freddo Césarina, 109 Fiddler’s Elbow, 228 Giovanni, 106 Checchino dal 1887, Friends Art Cafè, 232 Paris, 129 11, 130–131 Harry’s Bar, 228 Pascucci, 106 Colline Emiliane, 12, 109 Il Barone Rosso, 232 Passetto, 118–119 Crab, 109–110 Il Goccetto, 232 Piperno, 12–13, 113–114 Dal Bolognese, 13, 122, 124 La Bottega del Vino, 232 Pizzeria Baffetto, 11, 121 Da Mario, 124 La Buvette, 231 Quadrifoglio, 105–106 Dar Filettaro a Santa La Caffettiera, 230 Quinzi & Gabrieli, 12, 115 Barbara, 111 Riva Gauche, 230 Quirino, 119 Di Fronte a . . ., 124 San Crispino, 228 Reef, 122 Edoardo, 226–227 Solotto, 230 Riccioli Café, 13, 117, 230 El Toulà (The Hayloft), 11, 121 Tazza d’Oro, 230 Ristorante da Pancrazio, 114 Enoteca Corsi, 125 Tre Scalini, 7, 200 Vineria Reggio, 229