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Do not deface books by marks and writing^. CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 3 1924 088 015 783 Cornell University Library The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924088015783 Rambling Recollections WcAff n^cm ti ct.raAAH.tia -hy ^L.zJy.-Z.iea4.er Rambling Recollections BY THE RIGHT HONOURABLE SIR HENRY DRUMMOND WOLFF ^ G.C.B., G.C.M.G. LATE BRITISH AMBASSADOR IN SPAIN Ut, quocunque loco fueris, vixisse libenter Te dicas. HoR. Epis. I. xi. IN TWO VOLUMES VOL. I MACMILLAN AND CO., LIMITED ST. MARTIN'S STREET, LONDON 1908 5 /^/ 7y— HH'X' ^•tC(a«^1o TO MY WIFE LADY WOLFF FOR SO MANY YEARS MY CONSTANT COMRADE PREFACE The title of this book conveys my meaning clearly. It is not an autobiography, nor even a continuous narrative. It is founded on no diary or record. Whatever the contents of the book—whether narrative or anecdotic —they are given just as they come unbidden into my memory, which is not a bad one, though possibly not so exact as I could wish. I have not attempted to be strictly accurate as to chronological order, though the events described harmonise with the period in connection with which they appear. By anticipa- tion, therefore, I fully recognise the defects arising from want of premeditation. Any apologies that may be required of me, I make at once. I am prepared to accept criticism without remonstrance. There are many points omitted. I have not even alluded to the great change in English society caused by the influx of American notables. I believe that this peculiar feature of recent years is likely to bring great improvement and advantage viii RAMBLING RECOLLECTIONS to both countries. Unfortunately, what are called my declining years have not been overcrowded with enjoyment ; but among my pleasanter recol- lections are those of Americans like Consuelo, Duchess of Manchester ; her sister. Lady Lister- Kaye ; Mrs. Adair, and Lady Randolph Churchill. These friends being still aUve—let us hope for many years to come—I venture neither to eulogise nor to criticise. I have also much to say of gratitude to the family of the late Duke and Duchess of Marl- borough, to Lord and Lady Londonderry, to Lady Chesterfield, and to Mr. and Mrs. George Bankes and their family, from all of whom I have received many acts of kindness. I may say the same of the late Duke of Wellington—a man of extraordinary common sense and irresistible humour. If it were my misfortune to write any sequel to this book, I should have much to say that space has now forced me to omit. I feel under great obligations to Sir Edward Grey and to other members of the Foreign Office for the facilities they have given me in connection with this work. My warm thanks are also due to the Russian Ambassador and to the Persian chargd d'affaires. — CONTENTS CHAPTER I PAGE Malta — Mr. Hookham Frere — Naval friends — Sir Frederick Ponsonby — His family — Other acquaintances — Arrival of Turkish ladies—Giraffes—Malta transferred to Europe by Act of ParUament—Government—Summers in Malta . 1-10 CHAPTER n Naples—Leghorn—Geneva—Acquaintances in Switzerland—Dr. Malan — Mr. Henry Drummond — Schools at Richmond and Henley— Gas -lighting and lucifer matches — Postage Sir Francis Doyle — Rugby — Masters — Schoolfellows — Mr. Matthew Arnold—Mr. Lowe ..... 11-26 CHAPTER m Bruges—Fellow-students—Holiday in the Ardennes—Friends in Bruges — Amusements — Mr. Henry Drummond — Return to England — Coaching for the Foreign Office — Musical studies —Stage acquaintances — Recollections of theatres and plays —Early Victorian young ladies and literature—Friends of my youth—Society—How debtors evaded arrest . 27-45 CHAPTER IV Lord Palmerston—Handwriting—Appointed to the Foreign Office —Comparison between Foreign Office of 1846 and present day —Clerks in Foreign Office—Mr. Mellish—Mr. Hammond- Other colleagues ....... 46-60 ix — — X RAMBLING RECOLLECTIONS CHAPTER V FAOE Colleagues in the Foreign Office—Under-Secretaries of State—Life at the Foreigh Office—Hours of work—Private theatricals Holiday at Spa—Marriage of Lady Dorothy Nevill . 61-70 CHAPTER VI London friends—Sir John Burgoy ne—Mr. Disraeli—Other acquaint- ances—Mr. Hayward's anecdotes—Waterloo banquet—Foreign Office stories—Places of amusement .... 71-85 CHAPTER Vn Alfred Club—Members of the Club—Tichborne Case—Ruin of the Alfred—Anecdotes of Archbishop M'Gee—Mr. Brookfield London friends—Laurence OUphant and Spiritualism—Other acquaintances—Sheridan anecdotes .... 86-99 CHAPTER Vni Winter society in London — Early acquaintances — Sir Charles Wyke — The late Duke of Rutland— Mr. Thackeray — Mr. Kinglake — Debates in the House of Commons — Members of Parliament ...... 100-119 CHAPTER IX Prince Louis Napoleon—The Spanish Marriages—Disturbances in England — Dismissal of Sir Henry Bulwer by the Spanish Government—Visit to Paris La PropriiU c'est le Vol—Society in Paris—Proclamation of Prince-President—Meetings with Napoleon HL ...... 120-128 CHAPTER X Hohday in Spain—Journey to Madrid—Bull-fight—Queen Isabella —Spanish acquaintances—English friends in Spain—Spanish titles—Funeral of the Prince of Asturia.^^ —Connection of Spain with the East—Journey to England . 199-139 —— CONTENTS xi CHAPTER XI PAGE Exhibition of 1851 —Visit to Baden — Lord Palmerston's fall Acquaintances in London—Change of Government—Appointed 140-148 attach^ at Florence—Mather Case . CHAPTER Xn Florence—Colleagues—English residents—Russian acquaintances —Italian society—English friends—Florentine families 149-1S7 CHAPTER Xni Corps diplomatique at Florence—Acquaintances—English visitors Italian society— Effects of Austrian occupation —Sir Henry Bulwer's Mission to Rome—Diplomatic relations with the Papal See—"EgUnton Clause"—Letter from Mr. Lytton—Murray Case—Visit of British artists—Duty on English beer . 1S8-168 CHAPTER XIV Madiai Case—Captain Walker—Sentence on the Madiai—Deputa- tion—Protests against their sentence—Lord John Russell's despatch—Release of the Madiai—Mr. and Mrs. Edmund Phipps — Sir James Hudson — Jyord Normanby Minister at Florence—Mr. Scarlett ..... 169-177 CHAPTER XV Sir Henry Bulwer—Commission to investigate Danubian Princi- palities—Visit to Sir Henry Bulwer at Constantinople—His maxims — Mr. Robert Lytton — Lord Lytton in India — Marriage—Visits to Carrara and Florence . 178-189 CHAPTER XVI British Legation at Naples—Neapolitan society—English visitors —Lord and Lady Holland—Letters—Anecdotes of Popes 190-199 CHAPTER XVII Return to Florence—Journey to England—Prince Louis Lucien Bonaparte — Chemical and philological studies — Family Mutual friends—Meetings with Prince Louis Lucien . 200-205 — xii RAMBLING RECOLLECTIONS .CHAPTER XVIII Return to Foreign Office—Changes—Foreign Office and House of Commons—Hard work in connection with the Crimean War Entertainments — Friends in the diplomatic corps — Holland House — Friends in London — Letter from Lord Lytton on writing novels—Mr. Kinglake on Fiction . 206-216 CHAPTER XIX Holiday in Elba—Napoleon's exile—Maubreuil's design—Napoleon's journey to Elba — Museum — Claude Holard — M. Larabit— Souvenirs of the Emperor—His Ubrary—Expedition to Mar- ciana—Visit of lady and child to Napoleon—Speculations as to their identity .... 217-226 CHAPTER XX Work at Foreign Office—Amateur pantomime—Treaty of Paris Visit to France—Parisian society—Terms of Treaty—Diplo- matic acquaintances—Competitive examinations—Anecdotes Friends in London—The Times and Repeal of Corn Laws Other acquaintances ..... 227-238 CHAPTER XXI Special Mission to Brussels—Reception of Lord Westmorland Preparations for the f^tes—Audience of the King—Society in Brussels—Royal visitors—Ceremony of congratulation—Enter- tainments—Orderliness of the Belgians—Banquet and opera Illuminations—Cavalcade representing the towns of Belgium —Visit to Bruges — King Leopold and Lord Westmorland Belgian Ministers—Interviews with King Leopold II. and the Comte de Flandre—Despatch to Lord Clarendon . 239-251 CHAPTER XXII Popular sympathy of House of Lords—Indian Mutiny—Fall of Lord Palmerston's Government—Lord Derby's Administration —Private Secretary to Lord Malmesbury—Sir Edward Lytton —The new Government—Letter from Lamartine . 252-260 — — CONTENTS xiii CHAPTER XXIII PAGE Fuad Pasha—Private Secretary to Sir Edward Lytton—Work at Colonial Office—Heads of Departments—Sir Arthur Birch Tour in the Lake' Country—Distinguished Colonists—Visitors at Knebworth—Marriage of the Princess Royal—Peace with Persia — Causes of the War — Three Canadian statesmen Marshal PeUssier — Foundation of British Columbia — Sir Edward Lytton 's speech ..... 261-272 CHAPTER XXIV Ionian Islands—Tenure of Islands—Sir Thomas Maitland's Consti- tution—Ionian titles The Three Constitutions—Desire for union with Greece—Constant friction—Legislative anomalies—Con- sular jurisdiction—Mr. Gladstone's Mission . 273-281 CHAPTER XXV Mr. Gladstone's qualifications—His departure for Ionian Islands —Sir Henry Storks—Pubhcation of secret despatches—Mr.