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World Natural Heritage Ogasawara About the Ogasawara Islands

【Location】 The Ogasawara Islands are a group of more than 30 small subtropical temperature of 23℃ and a temperature of 18℃ even in winter, almost islands in the northwestern Pacific Ocean, located approximately never seeing snow or frost. The annual is approximately 1,000 km south of . The Ogasawara Islands are oceanic islands 1,300mm, somewhat lower than that of Tokyo. Of the many islands of that have never been connected to the land with any continent Ogasawara, only (pop. approx. 2,000) and (pop. since their birth. Ogasawara Village in Tokyo Prefecture includes approx. 450) are populated by permanent residents. islands such as, from the north, the Mukojima, Chichijima, and There is no airport on the Ogasawara Islands. The journey from Hahajima Groups, the Kazan (Io) Island Group 250 km further Tokyo's Takeshiba Pier to Chichijima Island takes about 25.5 hours south, Minami-torishima Island, 's easternmost island, and each way on a regularly scheduled liner, the Ogasawara Maru. The Japan's southernmost island Island. At roughly vessel leaves port at 10:00 in the morning and reaches Futami Port on the same latitude as Okinawa (Chichijima's latitude is 27 degrees Chichijima Island at 11:30 am the next day. It takes about 130 minutes north), they are located in the subtropical zone. With a subtropical from Chichijima to Hahajima on the Hahajima Maru. maritime climate, it is warm all four seasons, with an annual average

45°

40°

35° Tokyo

Izu Islands

30° Torishima

1,000km Mukojima Island Group Chichijima Island Group Naha City The Ogasawara Islands Hahajima Island Group 25°

Kazan (Io) Island Group Minami-torishima Island

20° Okinotorishima Island

130° 135° 140° 145° 150° Location of the Ogasawara Islands Source: Geographical Survey Institute of Japan 2 The Ogasawara Maru landing at Chichijima's Futami Port 【History】 The Ogasawara Islands are traditionally said to have been discovered in 1593 by a man named Sadayori Ogasawara. The first settlement on the Ogasawara Islands began with migration to Chichijima in 1830 by five Westerners and more than 10 people from Hawaii and other Pacific islands. Full-fledged migration from Japan began around 1860, and prior to World War II the islands played an important role as a relay station to South Pacific islands such as Saipan. In 1944, as the of war turned against Japan, all island residents except for military personnel were forcefully evacuated to the mainland of Japan. Even after the war, aside from some Westerners, residents were not permitted to return to the islands. In June 1968 the Ogasawara Islands were restored to Japanese sovereignty and after 23 years residents finally returned to the islands. Even after restoration to Japanese sovereignty, the general public did not return to Ioto Island due to its severe natural conditions including volcanic activity. Today it is the location of a Japan Self-Defense Forces base. In 1979 the village government was established, and from then through today it has continued village development activities aiming for coexistence with nature. A view of Oki Port from Hahajima's Mt. Chibusayama

Ogasawara during the prewar development years

A sunken vessel at Sakaiura on Chichijima Island

Chichijima Omura in the late 1920s

The ceremony marking restoration to Japanese sovereignty (Chichijima) 3 Nature

The Pacific plate subducted even further, and volcanic activity moved slightly westward. Since they are oceanic islands of subtropical ↓ ↓ ↓ Izu-Ogasawara Trench ↓ climate and there is no land connecting them to Mukojima Island Group the mainland, the Ogasawara Islands are full of Chichijima Island Group Hahajima Island Group wonderful, unique natural characteristics. Kazan Island Group

【Topography, Geography & Geology】 The Plate The Pacific Plate 48 million years ago Rock formations exposed on the land and the geological strata of the Ogasawara Islands 44 million years A part of mantle melted and ago generated magma, and the record the collision between tectonic plates that magma caused volcanic activity. started the formation of the continents and the at present subsequent geological growth process from the initial stage of subduction through today. It is possible to see a variety of rare rock formations and terrains on the Ogasawara Islands. The development of the Ogasawara Islands

Lapies (Minamijima Island) Chihiroiwa (Chichijima island) “Uguisu Suna,” oriole-green sand of boninite

【Animals & Plants】 The Ogasawara Islands are oceanic islands that have never been connected to with any continent since their birth. Therefore, only the limited organisms that managed to reach the islands across the ocean have been able to spread in the islands with little competition. As a result of their unique evolution, a large number of endemic animals and plants are found only on the Ogasawara Islands. The endemic ratios of endemic vascular plants, insects, and land snails are 36% , 28% , and 94% , respectively.

Photography: Satoshi Chiba Mandarina kaguya (endemic species)

Subtropical rainforest (home to many endemic species) Endemic subspecies of Japanese wood-pigeon (Columba janthina nitens)

4 Indo-Pacific Bottlenose

Coral reefs (Kitako Bay, Hahajima Island)

【The Seas of Ogasawara】 The seas of Ogasawara are deep blue in color. Diverse marine scenery spreads out in the sea, including coral reefs, multicolored tropical fish, and black rock surfaces slanting sharply into the sea. The vicinity of the Ogasawara Islands also is home to many creatures such as and whales, and the islands also have Japan's largest green-turtle spawning ground. These and other creatures provide the opportunity to see a variety of living creatures in the sea as well.

Humpback Whale (season: January – April)

World Heritage Nomination Process

The World Heritage is an irreplaceable asset of mankind as a whole and is a treasure to be handed over to future generations.The Ogasawara Islands were inscribed on the World Heritage List in June 2011, valued for the unique ecosystems that can only be seen in Ogasawara. The Ogasawara Islands are the fourth World Natural Heritage site in Japan, after Yakushima, Shirakami-Sanchi, and Shiretoko. On-site mission by the IUCN experts.

May 2003 Selection of Ogasawara Islands in Japan as a candidate of World Natural Heritage

January 2007 Submission of the Tentative List to the UNESCO World Heritage Centre.

January 2010 Submission of nomination dossier and management plan to the UNESCO World Heritage Centre. July 2010 On-site mission by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN).

Preparation by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) of an evaluation report and May 2011 submittal of the report to the UNESCO World Heritage Centre. Ogasawara Islands were inscribed as a World Natural Heritage site in the 35th session of the World Heritage June 2011 Committee.

5 World Natural Heritage,“Ogasawara Islands”

【Value of the Ogasawara Islands】 On the Ogasawara Islands, one can see numerous endemic creatures that evolved independently on these small islands isolated by the sea and the ecosystems that have developed among them. The islands have been recognized to have global value as a classic example of the evolution of living creatures on small oceanic islands. “Adaptive radiation” refers to creatures that originally were identical splitting into multiple phyla through changes in form and color suited to different environments. For example, the snails of Mandarina genus in the Ogasawara Islands have evolved into a variety of species through adaptive radiation, with snails with pale-colored shells living in trees and those with darker shells living on the ground. Comparison of fossil shells with species living today shows the history of evolution.

View of satellite islands of Hahajima Minamizaki Cape

M.aureola(Hahajima)

M.polita(Hahajima)

M.hahajimana  (Northern Hahajima) M.hahajimana(Northern Hahajima)

M.ponderosa (Mukohjima)

M.ponderosa(Mid Northern Hahajima)

M.UR(Northern Hahajima)

M.exoptata (Mid Northern Hahajima) Semifossil of Mandarina luhuana (Minamijima Island) M.EQPWU(Ane, Mei,Imotojima) Sclerophyllous scrub woodlands cover large areas of Chichijima M.UR(Southern Hahajima)

and Anijima Islands. Within these woodlands grow endemic plants M.kaguya(Southern Hahajima)

that have evolved in response to the dry island environment, M.kaguya (Hahajima Higashizaki) through adaptations such as changes in leaf shape. M.kaguya(Mid Hahajima) In addition to adaptive radiation, one can see the distinctive M.kaguya(Mukohjima) evolutionary forms characteristic of marine islands, such as plants that evolved from herbaceous to woody plants that differentiated M.hayatoi(Mei, Imotojima) into male and female. M.hirasei(Southern Chichijima)

M.hirasei(Hahajima)

M.mandarina (Northern Chichijima, Anijima) M.Chichijimana  (Southern Chichijima) M.trifasciata [type D] (Nakodojima)

M.trifasciata [type B] (Nakodojima) M.tomiyamai (Northern Chichijima, Anijima) M.suenoae (Northern Chichijima, Anijima) M.sp.(Ototojima, Anijima)

M.anijimana (Anijima)

Euhadra herklotsi Photography: Satoshi Chiba

Sclerophyllous scrub Evolution of Mandarina genus

6 World Heritage property (entire area)

【World Heritage Site】 Mukojima Island Group

Mt.Sugegasayama From the north, the Mukojima, Chichijima, and Hahajima Island Groups, Kita-ioto and Nishijima Minami-ioto Islands of the Io Island Group (Kazan Island Group), and Island Island Mt.Kitafutagoyama are included in the World Heritage Site, including some marine areas near Chichijima and Hahajima.

Anijima Island Kitako BayChichijima Island is blanketed with sclerophyllous scrub woodlands, chiefly in the east of the Mt.Higashiyama island, where one can view rare creatures. Minamijima's features include beautiful scenery Mt.Mikaeriyama and Mandarina luhuana shells. The subtropical rainforest at Sekimon on Hahajima is a treasure house of endemic species. 0 10 20 km Higashiko Bay Sekimonzaki Cape Chichijima Tsurihama Beach Nishinoshima Island Island Group Nagasaki Mt.Mikazukiyama Observation Platform Mikazukiyama Mt.Asahiyama Sekimon Observation Platform Asahidaira Hahajima Island Kita-Ioto Observation Platform Island Omura Beach Hahajima Nagahama Beach World Heritage property Chichijima Island Island Group (entire area) Mt.Yoakeyama Hatsuneura Mt.Sakaigatake Futami Bay Observation Platform Minami-Ioto Island Hatsuneura Beach Mukojima Island Group Sakaiura Beach Mt.Sugegasayama Mt.Kasayama NishijimaMt.Kuwanokiyama Higashizaki Cape Ogiura Beach Mt.Hatsuneyama Island Mt.Chibusayama Mt.Kitafutagoyama Mt.Chuosan Mt.Yagyusan Shin-yuhigaoka Anijima Island Kitako Bay Mt.Fukiwariyama Mt.Higashiyama Mt.Mikaeriyama Mt.Kensakiyama 0 10 20 km Higashiko Bay Kopepe Beach Sekimonzaki Cape Chichijima Kominato Beach Mt.Shigureyama Tsurihama Beach Nishinoshima Island Island Group Nakayamatoge Mt.Akahatayama Nagasaki Observation Platform Mt.Mikazukiyama Observation Platform Mikazukiyama Mt.Asahiyama Sekimon Buta Beach Mt.Tsutsujiyama Observation Mt.Toriyama Platform Asahidaira Hahajima Island Kita-Ioto Oki Port Observation Platform Island Mt.Takayama Omura Beach Hahajima Nagahama Beach ChichijimaSamegasaki Island Cape Island Group Mt.Tsuitateyama Mt.Yoakeyama Mt.Sakaigatake John Beach Hatsuneura FutamiNankinhama Bay Beach Observation Platform Minami-Ioto Island Minamijima Nishi Beach Miyukinohama Beach Hatsuneura Beach Sakaiura Beach Mt.Kasayama Island Jinny Beach Chihiroiwa Mt.Kuwanokiyama Higashizaki Tennoura Cape OmotohamaOgiura Beach Mt.Hatsuneyama Mt.Chibusayama Minamisaki Cape Mt.Chuosan Ogiike Pond Mt.Yagyusan Shin-yuhigaoka Tatsumizaki Cape Mt.Fukiwariyama Mt.Kensakiyama

World Heritage property Kopepe Beach Horaine Beach Kominato Beach Mt.Shigureyama Road Nakayamatoge Mt.Akahatayama Observation Platform Mt.Kofuji Walking path Buta Beach MinamizakiMt.Tsutsujiyama Cape Mt.Toriyama Oki Port Mt.Takayama Samegasaki Cape Viewpoint Mt.Tsuitateyama 0 0.5 1 2 km John Beach Nankinhama Beach Minamijima Nishi Beach Miyukinohama Beach ※ Other routes are accessible if accompanied by a guide. Island Jinny Beach Chihiroiwa Tennoura Minamisaki Cape Omotohama Beach Ogiike Pond Tatsumizaki Cape

World Heritage property Horaine Beach Road Mt.Kofuji Walking path Minamizaki Cape Viewpoint 0 0.5 1 2 km

※ Other routes are accessible if accompanied by a guide.

World Heritage

7 To Conserve the World Natural Heritage,“Ogasawara Islands”

【Efforts in the community】 When people began to live on the Ogasawara Islands in 1830, alien species arrived together with them. The introduction of alien species has changed the original ecosystems of the Ogasawara Islands, as alien species have preyed on endemic species or taken over their habitats. In cooperation with island residents, local NPOs, the Ministry of the Environment, the Forestry Agency, and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government, Ogasawara Village is carrying out activities including efforts to eliminate alien species.

Volunteers working to eliminate alien plants Obligation to fit pet cats with microchips Feral goat and cat-proof fence (Chichijima Island) 【When Visiting the Islands】 The cooperation of visitors is requested to help pass on to future generations the natural environment of the World Natural Heritage, the Ogasawara Islands.

● To prevent the invasion of alien species ● To conserve the natural environment of Please take care not to bring in any creatures not native to Ogasawara Ogasawara or not to take them to the mountains or other A variety of rules has been established in Ogasawara to islands. If you visit the mountains or other islands, check the protect the natural environment. Approach nature, following soles of your shoes, and your clothes and baggage, to make these rules, for example by sticking to set routes and following sure that no organisms, such as seeds and small insects, have guides’ instructions. stuck to them.

To prevent the introduction of alien species to Hahajima, visitors Visitors cannot enter Minamijima and Hahajima Sekimon are advised shake any dirt off shoes when disembarking from area without a guide. the Hahajima Maru.

● Inquiry June 2011 Chichijima: Ogasawara Village Tourist Association Produced/published by: General Affairs Division, Policy Office, Ogasawara Village TEL: +81(0)4998-2-2587 http://www.ogasawaramura.com/en/ Nishimachi, Chichijima, Ogasawara Village, Tokyo 100-2101 Hahajima: Hahajima Tourist Association TEL:+81(0)4998-2-3111 http://www.vill.ogasawara.tokyo.jp/ TEL: +81(0)4998-3-2300 http://www.hahajima.com/ Supported by: Ministry of the Environment, Forestry Agency, and Tokyo Tokyo: Ogasawara Village Tourism Bureau Metropolitan Government Edited by: PREC Institute Inc. TEL: +81(0)3-5776-2422 http://www.visitogasawara.com/ Designed by: Sanwa Co., Ltd. Ogasawara Village has prepared this leaflet with the support of Maserati Japan's Eco Project, for use in activities to protect and raise awareness of the World Heritage property, the Ogasawara Islands.