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CarPostal Bassin de Thau mobilite.agglopole.fr PUBLISHING Collection Directors and authors: Dominique AUZIAS et Jean-Paul LABOURDETTE Welcome Publishing manager: Tristan CUCHE In collaboration with Serge KIHM Authors: Marc BASTIDE, Sarah OLIVER, Louise BRAHITI, to Sète and Jean-Paul LABOURDETTE, Dominique AUZIAS et alter Publishing director: Stéphan SZEREMETA Publishing team (France): Elisabeth COL, Archipel de Thau! Silvia FOLIGNO, Tony DE SOUSA, Agnès VIZY Publishing team (World): Caroline MICHELOT, Morgane VESLIN, Pierre-Yves SOUCHET, Jimmy POSTOLLEC, Elvane SAHIN The “unique island”, authentic Mediterranean beauty full of STUDIO charm, elegantly dominates the hill of Mont Saint-Clair and its Studio Manager: Sophie LECHERTIER surroundings. Land of culture and tradition, Georges Brassens’s assisted by Romain AUDREN birthplace keeps stunning tourists and attracting newcomers. Layout: Julie BORDES, Sandrine MECKING, Delphine PAGANO, Sète hasn’t been crushed by mass tourism and was able to Laurie PILLOIS maintain its authentic character. You will be delighted by the Pictures management: Anne DIOT Mapping management: Jordan EL OUARDI panoramas visible from the upper district, as well as the various canals dancing around the docks with their rich and vibrant WEB history. You will have the pleasure of crossing many fishermen Web Director: Louis GENEAU de LAMARLIERE Technical Director: Lionel CAZAUMAYOU on the shores. Their nets hanging around there, they proudly Web management and Development: Cédric MAILLOUX, show their catch of the day. Nicolas GUENIN, Florian FAZER, Caroline LAFFAITEUR, Tourists will appreciate outings to the sea, walks across the Andrei UNGUREANU and Nicolas VAPPEREAU delicious market halls, and enjoy the dolce vita, which makes Community Manager: Cyprien de CANSON the city’s heart beat. The coastline of beaches and forests offers a NATIONAL PUBLICITY wide range of landscapes to holidaymakers. While the sporty can Publicity director: Caroline CHOLLET make the most of the natural spaces to practice their activities, Local publicity management: Michel GRANSEIGNE Customer relations management: Vimla MEETTOO food lovers and holidaymakers can relax in the quietness of the and Sandra RUFFIEUX charming beaches of the coastline. Heads of National Publicity: Caroline AUBRY, However, Sète isn’t the only gem in the region! Around Etang de François BRIANCON-MARJOLLET, Perrine DE CARNE MARCEIN, Thau, marked trails allow tourists to discover the ruins hidden Caroline GENTELET and Caroline PREAU by the neighbouring hills and to access several villages. Among INTERNATIONAL PUBLICITY the region’s must-sees, the superb thermal resort of Balaruc- Heads of Publicity: Jean-Marc FARAGUET, Guillaume LABOUREUR assistés d’Erika SANTOS les-Bains, the Aresquiers wood in Vic-la-Gardiole, a protected area harbouring countless natural riches, and Frontignan’s CIRCULATION AND PROMOTION irresistible sweet Muscat... These three communes are only Sales promotion Director: Bénédicte MOULET assistée d’Aissatou DIOP et Nahida KHIER a small sample of what awaits you in this basin full of fleshy Sales Manager: Jean-Pierre GHEZ oysters and speckled seahorses. Press and sponsor partnership management: The sun, a prosperous terroir and tasty local dishes add up to Jean-Mary MARCHAL the charm of the authentic setting and numerous festivals of ADMINISTRATION Sète and its basin. So come quickly to visit this astounding city; Chairman: Jean-Paul LABOURDETTE you will find it hard to leave afterwards! Administrative and financial Director: Valérie DECOTTIGNIES We wish you a pleasant stay and a good reading! Human Resources Director: Dina BOURDEAU assistée de Sandra MORAIS et Eva BAELEN Information and Technology Manager: Briac LE GOURRIEREC Accounting: Jeannine DEMIRDJIAN, Christelle MANEBARD and Adrien PRIGENT Collection: Fabien BONNAN assisted by Sandra BRIJLALL and Belinda MILLE Reception: Jehanne AOUMEUR

PETIT FUTE BEST OF SÈTE - ARCHIPEL DE THAU Petit Futé was founded by Dominique AUZIAS. PRINTED IN FRANCE It is published by Les Nouvelles Editions de l’Université 18, rue des Volontaires - 75015 Paris. & 01 53 69 70 00 - Fax 01 42 73 15 24 Internet: www.petitfute.com SAS au capital de 1 000 000 E - RC PARIS B 309 769 966 Cover: Joutes sétoise © Photoprofi30 - Shutterstock.com Printing: IMPRIMERIE CHIRAT - 42540 Saint-Just-la-Pendue Legal deposit: 19/08/2018 ISBN: 9791033183372

To email us, type the surname (lowercase) followed by @petitfute.com Write to the editor: [email protected] TABLE OF CONTENTS

Heritage & Traditions...... 26 TEISSEDRE Eric Eric © Local gastronomy...... 32 © Sports & Leisure...... 39 Festivals & Events...... 42

FROM PLACE TO PLACE n From place to place...... 50 Balaruc-les-Bains...... 50 Balaruc-le-Vieux...... 63 Bouzigues...... 66 Frontignan...... 71 Gigean...... 78 Loupian...... 80 Marseillan...... 83 Mèze...... 97 Mireval...... 106 Montbazin...... 109 The marina and the lighthouse of Mole Saint Louis. Poussan...... 109 Sète...... 112 INVITATION TO TRAVEL n Vic-la-Gardiole...... 148 The territory of the Agglopôle...... 6 Villeveyrac...... 152 DISCOVER SÈTE ORGANIZE YOUR STAY n Getting to Sète and Archipel de Thau...... 156 AND ARCHIPEL DE THAU n Getting around in Sète Must-sees...... 10 and Archipel de Thau...... 158 Nature...... 14 Inform yourself about Sète Economy...... 20 and Archipel de Thau...... 160 History...... 22 Index...... 164

direct access to the beach visually impaired disability take away bar mental handicap room service laundry motor disability fitness room air conditioning garden or park playroom / tv nightclub games modern sanitary cash machine washing machine / laundry water sports drinking water bicycle rental tennis horse riding grocery store archery smoking area airport shuttle non-smoking fishing waterslide fitness indoor swimming pool fan miniature golf outdoor heated pool toilet drain hard of hearing disability outdoor pool sailing 3 Monument to the glory of the contests in Sète. TABLE OF CONTENTS © Stéphan SZEREMETA D2 D5 D131 Saint-Pons-de- D114 4 D2 Mauchiens Montbazin e D116 nn D613 ie oc D161 D119 E ed Pioch de Mireval D2 E5 gu Villeveyrac Gigean n a Camille L a (224 m) L Pioch Noir (216 m) Vic-la- Poussan D119 Gardiole Roc d’Anduze D612 Vic (235 m) s Mere D5 a D114 D161 ll a Veyrac le P Roc de l’Aigle o D5 E11 di (210 m) ar G Swamp of ththee la Grande Palude D613 de sif D5 as M Bois des Balaruc- Aresquiers A9 le-Vieux D613 Cirque de l’Angle D60

Loupian D600 Frontignan D129 Ingril

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Mount D18 E1 Saint-Clair (175 m) Pinet D51 SÈTE Thau Basin D18 N112 Pomérols

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Bagnas Mere 1km Bagnas Marseillan- Natural Plage Reserve D2 D5 D131 Saint-Pons-de- D114 D2 5 Mauchiens Montbazin e D116 nn D613 ie oc D161 D119 E ed Pioch de Mireval D2 E5 gu Villeveyrac Gigean n a Camille L a (224 m) L Pioch Noir (216 m) Vic-la- Poussan D119 Gardiole Roc d’Anduze D612 Vic (235 m) s Mere D5 a D114 D161 ll a Veyrac le P Roc de l’Aigle o D5 E11 di (210 m) ar G Swamp of ththee la Grande Palude D613 de sif D5 as M Bois des Balaruc- Aresquiers A9 le-Vieux D613 Cirque de l’Angle D60

Loupian D600 Frontignan D129 Ingril

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Mount D18 E1 Saint-Clair (175 m) Pinet D51 SÈTE Thau Basin D18 N112 Pomérols

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Bagnas Mere 1km Bagnas Marseillan- Natural Plage Reserve The Territory of the Agglopôle

Agritourism - L’oursinade (9-10 March 2018): the fête de l’Oursin is organized every year in March by the Agglopôle, in the heart The territory of “Sète Agglopôle Méditerranée” enjoys a of Sète, on esplanade Aristide Briand. Tastings, moving rather high touristic potential, due to its particular envi- musical shows and concerts are organized during two days. ronment. Local policies continue to enhance the terroir - Fête de l’Anguille: born in 2015, this event dedicated to through regular events dedicated to regional specialties: eels is held in Marseillan. The event takes place in October fête du muscat, fête de l’huître de Bouzigues (celebrating and many animations take place on site (pedagogic Bouzigues oysters), fête de l’anguille (celebratiing eels), boat tour, traditional smoking demonstration, playful etc. Over the years local terroir has become one of the animation to rediscover the different species, presentation region’s main attractions. of the fishermen and shellfish farmer professions to the public, etc). As for the tasting, eels are cooked and can be The Vignobles et Découvertes label eaten on site or purchased raw to be prepared at home. Following long efforts and a desire to promote these assets, Archipel de Thau obtained the national label “Vignobles et Découvertes” (awarded for three years, A rich cultural offer it was renewed in 2016) on January 1st, 2013, becoming and a highlighted heritage the first destination in the Hérault it was awarded to. The territory of Sète Agglopôle Mediterrané has its Created in 2009, this label rewards tourist and wine- own cultural richness with its traditional celebrations, growing destinations offering multiple and complemen- numerous festivals as well as its Roman ruins. Various acti- tary tourist products (accommodation, restaurants, cellar vities promoting the region and its history are available visits and tastings, museums, events…) and allowing the to tourists. In order to ease the access to these areas, the customer to facilitate the organization of his stay as well Agglopôle offers a “Pass Culturel 3 musées” to the public as guiding him towards qualified services. Wine tourism which gives access to three major points of interest of has been identified as a theme that can bring together the basin: the multitude of landscapes, heritage, know-how and products, in a common approach to promote the terroir. wwLe Jardin Antique Méditerranéen: located in They clearly choose to distinguish themselves by focusing Balaruc-les-Bains, on almost 2 ha overlooking the Etang on the alliance of “wines and shellfish”, the two pillars de Thau, the Jardin Antique Méditerranéen has been of Etang de Thau’s economy. offering an initiation to botanical archaeology of the Greek and Gallo-Roman worlds. The public is invited Promoting the territory to discover the Mediterranean flora and its subtle uses (agriculture and horticulture, sacred and mythology, This label promotes the area’s attractivity, it is the perfect medicine, cooking, cosmetics…). platform for Archipel de Thau. Thanks to it, the region is gaining popularity and professionals in the fields of wwThe Gallo-Roman Museum – Villa-Loupian: heritage, tourism, shellfish farming and wine growing located near via Domitia, the Musée de la Villa also called are united in order to meet the objectives and propose “des Prés-bas” houses an important heritage of mosaics a quality offer. Each year, the professionals associated and ruins discovered in a rich Gallo-Roman villa of the with this Label are gathered under the coordination 1st and 2nd century. This museum is one of the rare of the agglopôle during the Assises de l’œnotourisme, French examples of in situ conservation and presentation. to concentrate all their efforts on the good image and wwThe Musée de l’Étang de Thau: open from February reputation of Archipel de Thau’s terroir. The agglopole 1st to November 30th, the Musée de l’Étang de Thau, is eager to promote this richness, this opportunity to located in Bouzigues, presents fishing and as oyster and be visible, and does so through local meetings and mussel farming, as well as all the activities related to agritourism events held throughout the year. the operation of Etang de Thau. These three institutions are a promise for spending an Agritourism related events enriching, educational and stunning moment for the There are several local events dedicated to the terroir whole family. in this territory, the agglopole organizes three of them: - Les Estivales de Thau: the agglopole created in 2015 the Protection and enhancement “Estivales de Thau”, an agritourism related event dedicated to shellfish farming and destined to capture the summer of natural spaces tourist flow. The idea: discovering wines and local The territory of “Sète Agglopôle Méditerranée” is an products on tasting stands, every Thursday evening exceptional area. Located between sea and pond, in July and August. mountains and vineyards, this natural oasis is a gigantic The Territory of the Agglopôle 7 eco-territory that local policies have a duty to protect. had to be rearranged in order to accommodate a large On the whole, there are more than 12 thousand hectares public without compromising the space and harmony of beaches, ponds, marshes, woods and scrubland, as well that prevails there. That’s why the agglopole will invest as 19 km of waterfront. A strengh for this territory whose almost EUR 2 million by 2019 to help promote this natural economic development partly derives from sectors of heritage and to reglement the way it is exploited. Many activity (fishing, shellfish farming, thermalism) and from walking trails, adapted to all levels, are already available, tourism. However, the occupation of these fragile spaces but the agglopole intends to create two labeled hiking is dangerous, that’s why the agglopole ensures the pres- trails, departing from the Abbaye Saint-Félix de Montceau. ervation and management of these exceptional spaces: The agglopole also plans to create of a 400-meter botanical fighting the erosion of lidos, protecting the Thau lagoon trail starting at Saint-Félix de Montceau, as well as the classified Natura 2000 site, management of salt marshes, launch of two studies on the opportunities for parking maintenance of the Massif de la Guardiole… All this areas around the uplands and enquire about the possibility within a sustainable development approach. of creating a garden of aromatic and medicinal plants. SÈTE AGGLOPÔLE MÉDITÉRRANÉE The protection and planning of the lido A lagoon under constant surveillance The exceptional storms of 1982, 1997, 1999… have The Thau lagoon is an exceptional area rich in fauna shown the lidos’ fragility and the long-term consequences and flora, and it is an exceptional heritage that all of us of quickening erosion. Urgent intervention was needed in must protect and transmit. The economy of the region areas subject to the highest erosion. In order to fight this is dependent on the good health of the lagoon, which phenomenon, the community and its partners (Europe, alone employs 4,000 people in the shellfish and fishing State, Region, Department) conduct an ambitious sector. This fragile environment is under surveillance, program to protect the lidos from Marseillan to Sète measures are taken on a regular basis and a “Brigade and Frontignan. Millions of euros have been invested to verte” (green brigade) has been set up: offer a lasting beach with a protected and preserved sand - The “Sirènes”: buoys nicknamed “sirènes” (mermaids) dunes. Among the measures taken, drains were installed were placed on the basin to measure the parameters of to prevent sand from being transported by waves and the area. In the event of a parameter anomaly (rate of going to the sea, a swell attenuator device was installed suspended matter, temperature or water salinity), they and sand reloading was carried out. In addition to these issue an alarm to a computer surveillance system so that maritime developments, a new road was created closer to field agents take immediate action and search for the the railway, parking lots were arranged along a road and origin of the problem to correct it as soon as possible. dunes were stabilized by wood and vegatation barriers. - The “Brigade verte”: established in 2010, the territorial brigade employs five field officers who are on the watch 24/7 on the territory of Sète Agglopôle Méditerranée to Management of the Massif de la Gardiole defend the common good against uncivil behaviours As early as 2016, the Urban Community of the Bassin which risk degrading the environment and wrong the de Thau undertook a project for the development and vast majority of the inhabitants. These agents act as water protection of the Massif de la Gardiole. This 18 km long police, carrying out regular levies, town planning, in case limestone mountain range has been a classified site since of illicit construction in agricultural or coastal areas, and 1980. Attended by almost 250,000 people each year, this wood and forest police in order to limit fire risks. They mountain range is one of the richest natural spaces of are also responsible for monitoring natural spaces and the territory. Framed by the sea and the pond, it offers ensuring a mission to monitor and maintain the areas an exceptional view of the region. This protected area reserved for travellers. Luc Olivier Luc © ©

Entrance of the port of Mèze. Discover Sète and archipel de Thau

City centre of Sète.

Sète, the “unique island” wwA city that highlights its traditions From June to September, the Sète canals serve as a wwA city immersed in water and light natural setting for Languedoc jousting tournaments. Located between the Etang de Thau and the sea, criss- Dressed in white, barefoot on rowboats, equipped with crossed by its canals, Sète lives up to its name of Venice a bulwark to protect them, a wooden spear in the other of Languedoc. The unique Island built on the slopes of hand, the jousters compete in a fair fight. On August 25th, Mont Saint-Clair is attached to the mainland only by on Saint Louis day, these meetings attract crowds. The small ground arms. The omnipresent water and the winner becomes a celebrity, feared and respected over canals – ideal for navigation – surrounding it, give an the entire coastline for a year. authentic charm to the city. Sète and its rich terroir proudly maintain its gastronomy, wwSète, the largest Mediterranean fishing port a repertoire full of traditions and products of the sea such A little more than three centuries ago, Louis XIV wanted as the bourride, stuffed mussels and squids, cuttlefish to offer a maritime gateway to the Canal du Midi. On in sauce, tielles… July 29th, 1666 was born the port of Sète which built its wealth thanks particularly to the wine trade. The harbor The Canal du Midi is the heart of the city with its cargo ships, cruise ships, w sailboats and fishing boats. Nowadays, the trawlers w A work listed as Unesco World Heritage returning to the port accompanied by seagulls is a daily Even though the Romans had already thought of scene before the catch of the day reaches the auction. connecting the Mediterranean to the Atlantic, it was The huge cruise ships which stop over also set the pace not until 1666 that Louis XIV signed an edict “for the of the constantly moving town. construction of a channel connecting the waters of the two seas, Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean”. wwMont Saint-Clair, an exceptional panorama The Biterrois Pierre-Paul Riquet, instigator of the idea Backed by the Thau lagoon and facing the sea, Mont with Colbert, was in charge of its implementation. The Saint-Clair, 183 m high, offers a magnificent panorama work began in 1667 and ended in 1681. 12,000 workers of the city, the port, the lido and the beaches, the Thau carried out the 254 km of trenches, 80 km of channels, lagoon, the Gardiole, etc. with the beautiful chapel of 150 works of art, and more than 60 locks needed to Notre-Dame de la Salette, a place of pilgrimage, at its come to grips with what Vauban considered to be summit. Mont Saint-Clair is also the Pierres Blanches “the most beautiful and noble work of this kind that state forest. This forest in the city is an exceptional site had ever been undertaken. It was Vauban who finished for the typical regional flora and fauna: it has many the work. Indeed, under pressure to meet deadlines, rare and protected species. Finally, we find one of the financial problems and wear of time, Riquet (died in most famous sites of Sète at the foot of Mont Saint-Clair 1680, one year before the inauguration) delivered in opposite the sea: the marine cemetery. Immortalised by reality a canal with many defects. Thus, two or three the native poet, Paul Valéry – buried in the upper part – years after his death, the work was almost abandoned. it also accommodates Jean Vilar’s grave. Vauban then put his genius of military architecture at wwA city of art and culture the service of the canal, creating bridges-canals and Sète has inspired great writers, poets, singers, among them other outfalls, which saved the company. The canal Paul Valéry, Jean Vilar, Georges Brassens, but also painters then experienced a period of prosperity and many who exhibit in galleries all over the world. The city is marked fortunes were made and lost there, but time went on by its museums such as the Paul Valéry Museum, the MIAM, and railway supplanted river navigation. the Regional Center of Contemporary Art, but also by a wwAn ideal place for walks multitude of art galleries and artists’ workshops. There are The 240 kilometers covered are still navigable and offer a series of festivals which take place in Sète, particularly in multiple opportunities for walking: on foot or by bike, summer, often in the magical setting of the Théâtre de la under the banks shaded by large plane trees (or pine Mer. The world of cinema was also under the charm of the trees on some areas) or by boat for a peaceful cruise. town and its particular light. More than 60 feature films Formerly “canal royal des deux mers”, Canal du Midi ends were shot there, from 1937 with Jean Gabin in Pépé le Moko its course in Sète and continues through Canal du Rhône by Julien Duvivier until 2016 with Catherine Deneuve and in Sète.Throughout its course, boat rental companies (see Diane Kruger in Tout nous sépare by Thierry Klifa. Among the list in “The Practical Region “) have settled in river them, there are other outstanding movies: Henri Decoin ports and have a fleet of boats and barges, on which (Burning Fuse, 1957), Christian-Jaque (Babette goes to war, you can embark for a few hours, one day, one weekend, 1959), Agnès Varda (La Pointe courte, 1954 and Les Plages one week… Depending on the route chosen, you must d ‘Agnès, 2007), Tony Gatlif (Gaspard and Robinson, 1990) check the passing times at locks, and then you will only or closer to us Thierry Klifa (Tout nous sépare, 2017) and let yourself to drift, enjoying the shadow of the large Alice Douard (Robin, 2017). trees and the landscapes crossed. 11 CREDIT PHOTO CREDIT CREDIT PHOTO CREDIT © © / Graphicobsession TURPIN © Philippe

Légende photos Abbey of Valmagne. CREDIT PHOTO CREDIT © / Go Premium / Graphicobsession / Go Premium DE HOGUES DE © Bruno

Hill of Mont Saint-ClairLégende inphotos Sète. 12 Must-sees

Identity Card wwNumber (department): 34. wwPrefecture – Sub-prefecture: Sète. wwPopulation: 125,019. ww Nombre of municipalities: 14. ww ww Region of belonging – departments Demography: rising steadily. composing it: Languedoc – Herault. wwDensity: 447 ha/m ². wwHighest point: Mont Saint-Clair. wwArea: 310.29 km ². wwMain waterways: Mediterranean Sea.

wwOutstanding works the lake and the marsh of Bagnas that has a protected If you had to choose two outstanding works of the canal, to ornithological reserve. visit absolutely during a visit to Languedoc-Roussillon, Petit wwExceptional Biodiversity Futé unhesitatingly recommends the locks of Fontserrane The Thau Lagoon shelters an exceptional ecological in Béziers and the works of Libron in Vias. The first ones diversity unique in Europe.Over 400 plant species and are the most spectacular achievement designed by Paul 100 animal species live in this marine environment, Riquet. With eight basins and nine doors, they allow boats among them are: clam, sea snail, urchin, sea bream, to cross a drop of 21.50 m over a length of more than flathead grey mullet, bass (known as bar on the Atlantic) 300 m. True water staircase, technical prowess for the time, and hippocampus that has become the emblem of Thau. the locks are a permanent attraction, still active despite the construction of an innovative work, the water slope wwThe garden of the sea nearby (often breaks down). The second ones are unique Nicknamed the garden of the sea, Thau lagoon has been a in the world. Consisting of a gate tangle, cranberries and place of shellfish farming since Antiquity. Shellfishes is the chains, the system allows the water of the Libron to pass main resource of the lagoon. Cupped oysters of Bouzigues through Canal du Midi on a mobile artificial bed composed are meaty oysters, fine in the mouth and of outstanding of two metal casing (leather at origin) which obstructs the taste quality. Almost 800 family farms produce oysters passage on the canal. This is an instructive and peaceful and mussels on the lagoon. Shellfish is farmed on tables place to walk in this preserved area. put on water, there are nearly 2,800 which cover almost the entirety of the northern shore of the lake over more than 1,300 hectares. Fishing on the lagoon, which has Abbaye de Valmagne also been practiced since Antiquity, is done by small An oasis of freshness in the heart of a dry landscape of trades. Fishermen who perform their activity on small scrublands, the Abbaye de Valmagne is one of the best boats fish on the lakes and at sea. On the lagoon, there preserved witnesses to Cistercian art. The complex includes are many species such as eels, bass, sea breams, soles, a church, a cloister, a chapter house and a fountain. Turned salema porgy, big-scale sand smelt but also clams, rock into a wine estate, it harbours almost 200 year old barrels, mussels (wild mussels), snails called “poivre”, urchins. two of them are stillused for the vinification of the wine w produced. In the beautiful cloister, around a cask, two w A small inland sea parcels of vinyard are over 150 years old. The visit includes a Surrounded by the cities of Sète, Frontignan, Balaruc- tour of the medicinal plants garden and of the conservatory les-Bains, Balaruc-le-Vieux, Bouzigues, Loupian, Mèze of grape varieties used by the wine domaine. and Marseillan, Thau lagoon is like a small inland sea. During the summer, the venerable walls of the abbey You can walk around the lagoon from towns to villages. vibrate to the melodies of a festival of classic music from Each of these places offers a new viewpoint of the lagoon medieval times our time, held since 20 years. The visit of and a special charm. You can also discover the lagoon the Abbey is a must, especially since it is followed by a through its many leisure activities: sailing, sea kayaking, winetasting in the cellar, filled with decorations dedicated windsurfing, kitesurfing, diving, paddling, rowing, oar… to the Count of Turenne. You can have something to eat But there is also walking or cycling on the itineraries that in the auberge du frère Nonenque, who cooks with wind around the lagoon. vegetables from the garden you cross during the visit. La Gardiole mountain range The Thau lagoon wwMassif de la Gardiole, balcony on the wwThe largest pond in Occitanie Mediterranean Thau lagoon is the largest and deepest pond of Occitania. Massif de la Gardiole offers the Gulf of Lion one of its most With a surface area of 7,500 hectares, it streches over beautiful panoramas. Located between sea and greenery, 19 km in length and 5 km in width. Separated from the this 5,000 hectare limestone plateau rises to 234 meters Gulf of Lion by a thin sand barrier beach linking the of altitude. It touches many surrounding municipali- volcano of Agde with Mont Saint Clair of Sète. The Thau ties: Balaruc-les-Bains, Balaruc-le-Vieux, Fabrègues, lagoon extends eastwards by the lakes of Eaux-Blanches Frontignan, Gigean, Mireval, and Vic-la-Gardiole, and and the lake of Ingril of Frontignan and westwards by offers several possibilities for hiking. Must-sees 13 DISCOVER SÈTE AND ARCHIPEL DE THAU

CREATIVE WALKS MORE INFO ON : IN HERAULT herault.fr wwLand of sports enthusiasts and adventurers The cadre royal This exceptional environment is a constant invitation to walk, to get fresh air, simply to get away from it At its creation, the city of Sète had the well defined all. On foot, on horseback or by mountain bike, function of allowing the link between the Thau basin Massif de la Gardiole offers unique views of the blue and the sea. This objective was posed by Louis XIV and horizon. The Massif is crossed by very important the work was executed by Pierre-Paul Riquet until his valleys extended by many ravines with slopes often death in 1680. Still today the canals and the Canal du marly strongly smoothed by erosion, a land specific Midi play a leading role in the inhabitants of Sète’s life. to the region that you must take the time to become Not only has the city grown all around it but it is also still accustomed. The tourist offices of the region will not lives at its pace. This typical district of the city bears the hesitate to guide you towards the various trails and name “cadre royal” – royal framework- in honour of its observation points of this splendid environment. Please, creator, it is delimited by the Quai de la Resistance, the also note that three marked hiking trails have been Quai Général Durand, the Pont de la Savonnerie, Quai recently created and that several tourist offices in the Charles Lemaresquier, Quai Léopold Suquet and the region offer commented and accompanied walks in Pont de la Civette. The area has preserved its network the Massif. of canals and wharves with colorful facades, yet today it is an must-go meeting place of the city’s. Here, between the two bridges, the very popular tournaments of nautical The Aresquiers wood games have been held throughout the summer for over wwAresquiers wood, an oasis of greenery 350 years. Indeed, the first tournament was launched This wood is located in the town of Vic-la-Gardiole during the festivities given for laying the first stone of and communicates with the protected area of the old the construction of the city on July 29, 1666. Frontignan salt marshes. This natural area is a rarity in Occitanie, naturally wooded, it is located near the coast. The voie verte The vegetation present in this area is also influenced by For many years, Sète and the Thau Basin have been this neighborhood: The pine forest succeeds the lagoon engaged in protecting and conserving the coastline. The through a short steppe area and samphire salt meadows. Green Lane of Thau Lagoon is one of its most beautiful The contact of this small world creates breathtaking lands- projects. Both environmental and touristic, the construc- capes and gives an impression of impenetrable jungle. tion of this route is part of a project to rehabilitate the dune wwA protected site ridges between Étang de Thau and the Mediterranean Sea, In the past, the wood belonged to an individual who commonly known as the “Lido”. Between 2005 and 2012, used it for agricultural activity until the 1970s, and a smooth trail was created between Sète and Marseillan, then a period of non-management led to the current offering perfect traffic conditions for cycling, roller, foot or vegetation. In 1982, the Conservatoire du littoral acquired wheelchair with a magnificent view of the Thau lagoon. the site to ensure its protection. Regularly frequented This path follows the cycle path that go along the Corniche by the public, the site does not contain particularly rare in Sète on 12 km and ends in Marseillan-Plage and then animal species but the fauna is rich on the spot and it extends through a bicycle path in Marseillan. It is a is easy to observe the life of the flamingos, shelducks, sensational Green Lane that is open along the beaches. egrets, stilts and other coastal birds… besides, the site It is the primer of a “Tour of the Étang de Thau” by bike is classified Natura 2000 “Palavasians Ponds”. that is being carried out. NATURE

wwSeasons typical of the Mediterranean climate Geography A quite mild winter, a capricious spring that gives way to wwBassin de Thau, a maritime identity a long and hot summer interspersed with thunderstorms Located in the south of France and opening onto the in August. As for autumn, which is more changeable, western basin of the Mediterranean sea, the territory it offers a kaleidoscope of vines in polychrome colors. of Thau is a true interface between land and sea. This season is often subject to heavy rainfall. This has With 30 kilometers of sea facade and a watershed a consequence on rivers and small coastal rivers which, of 42,000 hectares, it is above all a territory of water benefiting from very irregular regimes, are marked that constitutes its main wealth. It is a coastal territory by the brutality of autumn floods and severe drought that fulfills important economic, social and ecological events in summer. functions. ww wwThau, the largest lagoon in the Occitania region Average temperatures Thau is a territory shaped by the lagoon that holds a With a definitely Mediterranean climate combined strong environmental heritage.Coast, lagoon, this natural with the mildness of the sea that bathes it, Bassin de heritage is fragile and vulnerable to the impacts of climate Thau enjoys particularly mild temperatures and, even change. With a surface area of 7,500 hectares, Thau Lagoon at night in winter, they rarely fall below zero. In winter, if mornings can sometimes be cool with only 3° C or 4° covers almost 20% of the total surface area of the territory. C, temperatures go up quickly and often reach 10 ° C. It is the largest lagoon in the Languedoc-Roussillon region. It is not rare to see 15° C or 16° C at the beginning of 19 km long and with an average depth of 4.5 meters, November or in April. Summers are particularly hot, the volume of water contained in the Thau lagoon is sometimes scorching. From June and until the end of estimated at approximately 340 million m3. ww September, 33° C at 35° C are common and, in particularly Thau is also a territory marked by viticulture hot summers, it may happen that, in the afternoon, The emerging part, which represents about 70% of its mercury reaches or exceeds 40° C. total surface area, mainly consists of agricultural areas mainly represented by viticulture, natural spaces and wwPrecipitation urban and industrial settlements. Low, precipitation mainly occurs in autumn in the form wwA constantly rising demography of rain showers or remnants of Cevenol episodes, or at Thau’s unique landscapes are an outstanding living the end of the day in August, especially when the day environment that is under strong demographic pressure. was particularly hot. But, once again, they are relatively sparse and guarantee a very sunny climate in general. Climate wwNatural phenomena Except when the Deep Ocean gets excited and turns wwMaximum sunshine to storm, the region suffers relatively little natural Sunshine is maximum there with a mild temperature phenomenon, and, in any event, none presents risks and low number of rainy days. With an inconvenience for human life. Only drought, which is recurring from for some, the permanent duel between tramontane summer to summer, remains a true problem, but more for and the sea wind. Tramontane, which is a northern residents than for visitors. As for Mediterranean storms, wind, descends from the mountains to the plain, which they are much less violent than those of the oceans and sweeps away the clouds from the sky. Result, great blue can even be a very nice spectacle. sky, dried atmosphere, but also cold sensation and when it goes on, the impression of being stunned by this wind. Relief The marine wind is, when it comes to it, from the south, from the Mediterranean sea, it brings with it drizzle, wwCharacteristic landscapes: located between humidity and mildness. scrubland and seaside, archipel of Thau offers a variety

Sète and the Thau basin The Thau basin is a world apart, colorful and alive where the peasants of the sea work from dawn and until the evening. Thau, dominated by Mont Saint Clair, is a calm inland sea rich in fish. It is also since ancient times the basin for farming oyster and shellfish. By following the shoreline, we cross villages with white-washed houses and their small ports with colorful barks, fishing nets drying in the sun… Bouzigues, Mèze, Marseillan and Balarucn, the spa par excellence are pleasant stops. The Thau lagoon traversed by the Midi Canal attracts boaters, yachtsmen and all sailing enthusiasts. Index 165 Bruno De Hogues / GO Premium / GraphicObsession © © ORGANIZE YOURSTAY

Saint-Louis lighthouse in Sète.

PLAGE DE LA BALEINE (SETE)...... 119 H n PLAGE DE LA CORNICHE (SETE)...... 119 HALLES SÉTOISES (LES)...... 118 PLAGE DE LA FONTAINE (SETE)...... 119 HÔTEL DE VILLE (MARSEILLAN)...... 84 PLAGE DES TROIS DIGUES (SETE)...... 119 PLAGE DU CASTELLAS (SETE)...... 119 PLAGE DU JALABERT (SETE)...... 119 J – L n PLAGE DU LAZARET (SETE)...... 119 PLAGE DU LIDO (SETE)...... 119 JARDIN ANTIQUE (BALARUC-LES-BAINS)...... 51 PLAGES DE BALARUC-LES-BAINS...... 51 LOUPIAN...... 80 POINTE COURTE (LA) (SETE)...... 118 PORCHERON (MARSEILLAN)...... 84 M – O n PORTE DE LA TROISIÈME MAIRIE (MARSEILLAN)...... 84 PORTE GOTHIQUE (MONTBAZIN)...... 109 MACO-MUSÉE À CIEL OUVERT (SETE)...... 117 POUSSAN...... 109 MAISON DE L’IMAGE DOCUMENTAIRE (SETE)...... 119 PRESBYTÈRE (LE) (POUSSAN)...... 110 MARSEILLAN...... 83 PROMENADE GEORGES BRASSENS – MAS EARL HUÎTRES-BOUZIGUES.COM...... 82 LAURENT SPINOSI (BALARUC-LES-BAINS)...... 51 MEZE...... 97 MIREVAL...... 106 MOLE ET PHARE SAINT-LOUIS...... 118 Q – R n MONT SAINT-CLAIR ET CIMETIÈRE MARIN (SETE)...... 120 QUARTIER HAUT (SETE)...... 118 MONTBAZIN...... 109 RÉSERVE NATURELLE DU BAGNAS...... 84 MUSÉE DE FRONTIGNAN...... 71 MUSÉE DE L’ÉTANG DE THAU...... 66 MUSÉE DE LA MER (SETE)...... 120 S n MUSÉE DU SAPEUR-POMPIER (BOUZIGUES)...... 66 SAINTE-CÉCILE (ÉGLISE) (L’) (LOUPIAN)...... 82 MUSÉE INTERNATIONAL DES ARTS MODESTES SETE...... 112 (MIAM) (SETE)...... 120 MUSÉE PAUL-VALÉRY (SETE)...... 120 MUSÉE-PARC DES DINOSAURES (MEZE)...... 98 T n OLA (LA) (SETE)...... 117 THAUTALLY ENGLISH (BOUZIGUES)...... 67 THÉÂTRE DE LA MER (SETE)...... 118 P n PARC SÉVIGNÉ...... 51 V n PARCOURS SÈTE AU FIL DE SON HISTOIRE...... 122 VIC-LA-GARDIOLE...... 148 PLACE CARNOT (MARSEILLAN)...... 84 VILLA LOUPIAN – MUSÉE DE SITE GALLO-ROMAIN...... 82 PLACE DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE OU PLACE MARIANNE...... 84 VILLEVEYRAC...... 152 PLACE DU TRUC (BALARUC-LE-VIEUX)...... 64 VOILE ROUGE (LA) (SETE)...... 117 work with us on the next edition of Sète - Archipel de Thau

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