Brewing Ingredients: Malt

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BREWING INGREDIENTS: MALT

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here are plenty of technical pounds found in beer. Maillard reac- found in the mash in addition to terms that surround the cereal tions combine a sugar molecule with starch from adjuncts, so long as the grains that we brewers use as an amino acid to produce hundreds of brewer does not dilute the base malt T a source of sugar to make beer. flavor-active compounds. The aromas enzymes too much. If brewers are us- Understanding the brewing jargon generated from the Maillard reaction ing lots of grains with little or no dia- used when talking about malt can be intensify as the reaction progresses static power, they may want to extend very helpful. This column assumes as temperature and/or roasting time the mash time. you have a basic understanding of increase. The progression of Maillard mashing already. If you would like to reaction products begin with cracker MEET THE FAMILIES learn more on the basics of mashing, and light toast aromas, then into the Steeping grains and mashing grains visit https://byo.com/article/your- caramel, toffee, honey, nutty realm, are two distinct classes of grains first-all-grain-beer/ and finally into roasted aromas like that homebrewers should familiar- chocolate, coffee, and burnt bread. ize themselves with. Steeping grains MALTING TALK Maltsters can adjust their process to are generally limited to two families Most of the grains that brewers use guide their roast towards different of grains, dark roasted grains (such are of the malted variety. The malting sets of these Maillard reaction prod- as chocolate malts, black malts, and process takes the raw, whole-grain ucts. roasted barleys), and caramel malts berries, another term for the raw Maltsters provide the color con- (such crystal, cara-types, and Special seeds of the grain, and begins the ger- tribution of the malt in degrees Stan- B/Special W). Basically all other grain mination process of the berry. Malt- dard Reference Method (SRM) (which families fall into the mashing class, ing is most often done on barley, but is based on the Lovibond (°L) scale), including base malts (such as Pilsen, wheat, rye, and oats, are a few other or in European Brewery Convention pale, Vienna, and Munich), roasted popular grains maltsters will utilize. (EBC) units. Utilizing a good calcula- malts (such as Biscuit, Victory®, and As the grain begins to become meta- tor, homebrewers can take the color brown), specialty malts (such as acid- bolically active, it sprouts or chits in contribution from each malt in the ulated and rauch), unmalted grains, malting lingo; some grains that are mash and combine them to come up and miscellaneous malts (like wheat, just barely modified before kilning with a general idea of the final beer rye, and oat). are called chit malz. The germination color via the Morey equation. While Here’s a truism for you: Mashing process lasts about 3-4 days before it this can give brewers a rough idea of grains should be mashed. That’s not is halted at a certain point when the the final color of a beer, it has its lim- to say they have to be. Extract brew- germination has progressed as far as itations such as not being able to dis- ers can use them to add some flavor the maltster requires. At this point tinguish brown hues versus red hues. from their Maillard products; just the grains are kilned, or dried. Some don’t expect much sugar contribution specialty malts are roasted to vary- FEEL THE POWER from them if they are simply steeped. ing degrees in a drum roaster, and One of the most important concepts Mashing grains contain high levels of others are changed by stewing before to understand is diastatic power of starch that brewer’s yeast cannot eat, roasting. Stewing involves taking the a malted grain. So what is diastatic but other microbes can, which creates newly germinated grains and raising power? It’s basically the grains’ abil- an instable beer. Starch can also cre- the temperature into the same range ity to convert the starch into sugar via ate a haze in the beer. Partial mashes that brewers mash their grains. This enzymes, particularly alpha amylase are a great method for extract brewers effectively converts almost all the and beta amylase. The more amy- who would like to try a mash, without starch in the grain to sugar prior to lase enzymes found in the malt, the the need for specialized equipment. the drying/roasting process. more diastatic power. The highest For more on mashing versus steep- level of diastatic power is found in ing, visit https://byo.com/mr-wiz- GET A REACTION green malt, in other words malt that ard/101/. There is a class of chemical reac- has just finished with the germina- tions that occurs in the malting pro- tion process. Once the malt enters cess that every homebrewer should the kilning process, this level begins understand, a process known as the to drop as the heat from the kilning Maillard reactions. Maillard reactions process tears apart these enzymes. In create the lion’s share of the charac- general, base malts will have enough teristic malty flavor and aroma com- diastatic power to convert the starch

alt, hops, yeast, water. There have been extensive studies into each of these ingredi- M ents and their impact on the final beer product, but often it is the large flavor contributors such as hops, yeast, and specialty malts that get the most attention. While the influence of base malts in the final beer product might be subtle in comparison, it still will have an effect on your beer and knowing how they impact the final product can help you to better predict how your final beer will turn out. Base malts are exactly as they sound, the foundation the beer is built on. They are the major contributor of the carbohydrates (from starch), proteins, and enzymes in the beer. They are the workhorse of a malt bill and sometimes are just treated as such, but just because they are used primarily as a carbohydrate and enzyme source, that does not mean they are all in- terchangeable. Base malts have their subtle differences as well, and often there is a good reason why a specific base malt was used in a given recipe. each other on the head of the barley, better filter bed, so 6-row malt is of- Knowing the differences in the malts and often times two of the grains on ten easier to lauter. 6-row malt also can help you choose the right base the head grow larger than the rest. has higher enzymatic activity and malt for your brew. This leads to an inconsistent grain it is a good choice when using ad- size with some of the grains being junct starch sources or a large ratio of 2-ROW VS. 6-ROW MALT larger than the rest. Because of the highly under-modified malt due to its The first aspect to consider in choos- larger grain size in 2-row malt, it is increased enzymatic activity. That is ing a base malt is whether it is a described as having a mellower/malt- one of the reasons why it is often the 2-row or a 6-row malt. Outside of the ier flavor whereas 6-row is described choice of large production breweries. US, 2-row is basically the standard as having a grainier flavor. 2-row also Large breweries will use cheaper ad- for all base malts, and you would be has a higher starch content and can juncts such as corn and rice, and they hard pressed to find a 6-row malt for produce a higher extract, which is one need the increased enzymatic activity brewing. Even in the US, for the most of the reasons it is often the barley of to fully convert the adjuncts. Another part, base malts will almost always be choice for most maltsters. reason they will choose 6-row malt is 2-row for a number of reasons. 2-row The grainy flavor of 6-row is partly that it may cost less than 2-row malt grows fewer grains on the head of the due to the higher husk-to-malt ratio depending on where the brewery is barley (2 per head instead of 6 per of the grain. The husks contain a ma- located. The cost savings comes from head). This allows the grains to grow jority of the tannins, polyphenols, and the fact that more grain is produced plumper, and will typically result in proteins in the malt, so with a higher per barley stalk than 2-row, so you a larger and more consistent grain husk ratio, you will extract more of can produce more malt per acre of size. 6-row on the other hand will these qualities in the produced beer. planted barley, which lowers the cost usually grow different sizes of grains, One advantage of the higher husk ra- per pound of the finished product. partly because the barley head is more tio of 6-row malt is in building the fil- As mentioned before, for the most crowded, but also because the grains ter bed during the lautering process. part you will only be using 2-row grow in pairs directly across from Having more husks helps to build a malts in brewing, but 6-row does

2 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine – Malt © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved have its place in beer production so it self, and what characteristics you can you like and converts well. is good to be aware of its characteris- expect when using their malt. Along If you are new to the different base tics. with flavor descriptors, a maltster malts, one of the best ways to under- One final note, malted barley is will provide some other specifica- stand them is to get your hands on not always going to be the only source tions about the malt. The specifica- the different varieties and give them a of starch in a mash. Some styles will tions may vary slightly depending on taste. If possible, try to get a few sam- often call for other grains such as rye, what methods were used, for example ples of the same style (I would recom- oats, sorghum, and wheat. These will ASBC, IBD or EBC, and how many tests mend pale malt or pale ale malt) from need the enzymatic activity from the the lab decided to perform, but typi- a few different maltsters. It can help malt to convert the starches, or en- cally you can find information on the you to better understand regional dif- zymes will need to be added. If you target range or minimum/maximum ferences, and give you a better idea are looking for a high ratio of adjunct of specific qualities of the malt such of what base malt you prefer. Certain grains, and you are not adding any as color, moisture, protein totals, ex- styles will call for different base malts extra enzymes, consider using 6-row pected extract, and usage rates. There and using the right base malt will give malt for its higher diastatic power. may be more or less information, you the best chance of brewing an again depending on what the lab is awesome beer. Like specialty malts, DIFFERENCES IN testing for, but these characteristics base malts also come in a number of BASE MALTS are generally tested with most base varieties. These include: Pale malt, Another aspect to consider is the ori- malts and can offer some valuable in- Pilsner malt, pale ale malt, Vienna gin of the base malt. Outside of the formation. In general, lower moisture malt, and Munich malt. US, base malts will almost exclusively malt will hold up better for storage. come from 2-row barley, and can have Higher protein can help with better PALE MALT slightly different flavor characteris- head retention in the beer, and can tics. There are a number of reasons offer greater nutrition for the yeast that the flavor can differ in base malts during fermentation. This informa- of the same style, including where the tion can give you an idea of how the barley is grown (terroir), what barley malt will impact the final beer outside variety the maltster uses, the malting of its flavor and aroma contributions. and kilning process the maltster uses, There are some general guidelines what characteristics the maltster is you will find in malt from various targeting, what moisture level the malt growing regions. North Ameri- maltster is targeting, and many more can malts can sometimes have an choices that the maltster will make. earthier and grassier characteristic, Without going into too much detail but for the most part are considered about malt production, the maltster fairly neutral. British malts are of- will determine the best way to pro- ten described as being more biscuity, duce a malt that falls within specifi- bready, and malty. Maris Otter, a bar- cation, and is as consistent as possi- ley variety often used in British malts, Pale Malt is the most common of the ble with their previous malt batches. is a perfect example of the sweet, bis- base malts used in beer. It is often- The maltster will work closely with cuity flavors that you will get in Brit- times called simply called “2-row” the farmers, and usually will receive ish malts. German malts can have a malt. This can be a little confusing to and test the barley before commit- mild malty and sometimes slightly new brewers as basically all the malt ting to using it for malting. They will medicinal phenolic characteristic. they will be using is a type of 2-row be looking for a number of param- If you are looking to replicate a malt. Just know that if a recipe calls eters including, but certainly not lim- specific style, it can be a good idea to for 2-row malt by name, they are re- ited to, dormancy of the malt, pro- try and get base malt from that region ferring to pale malt. Another name tein content, moisture content, and the style originated, as that is most for the same type of malt might be grain size. The maltster goes through likely what the brewers producing the barley variety itself such as Maris a lot of hard work to produce a high- that style are using. It is one of the Otter. quality, consistent base malt, and will best ways to try to be true to style, Pale malt is light in color and usu- oftentimes make adjustments on the although imported malts will usually ally will be around 2–2.5 degrees Lovi- fly to ensure that the malt is within come at a higher price than domes- bond. It can be used to make basically specified parameters. tic malts so that is something to take any beer style and is highly modified A good starting point in choosing into consideration. You can some- so you will not have any trouble get- which base malt to pick for your beer times see price savings buying malt in ting extract out of it. If you are not would be looking at the data the malt- bulk by the bag, but when committing sure what base malt you should be ster provides. They will often give an to a full bag of base malt you will want using, start with pale malt. It works accurate description of the malt it- to be sure you find something that well in almost all situations. If you are

3 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine – Malt © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved looking to buy malt in bulk and store Vienna malt will typically have a it yourself, this is definitely a must- grainy, sometimes sweet, malty flavor have. and will be much more pronounced than any of the other previous base PILSNER MALT malts. Vienna malt is typically used in Oktoberfest lagers and Vienna-style lagers.

MUNICH MALT

grees Lovibond range. Pale ale malt has a more full-bodied flavor and you will get more of the malty aromas with pale ale malt. It is a great choice for almost any ale — from pale ales and IPAs to porters and stouts. This is an especially good choice for English pale ales, and Pilsner malt is typically lighter in really any beer that you want a bit color than pale malt, falling into the more body. Pale ale malts often have a 1.5–2 degrees Lovibond range. It is sweet or honey characteristic to them used for, as you probably guessed, as well, but this can vary by maltster making Pilsner beers — typically tra- so check if the maltster lists honey as ditional German and Czech Pilsners. one of its malt descriptors if search- Munich malt is the last on the list It has a lighter and crisper flavor than ing for this characteristic. and is the most highly kilned of the pale malt and the flavor is very subtle base malts. Its color can range the so it is best to use this malt with other VIENNA MALT most out of the base malts, weigh- light malts, or as the entire mash bill. ing in anywhere in the 7–30 degrees Within a region, Pilsner malts can Lovibond range, so it is good to check sometimes have a bit higher soluble the color of the malt before using it protein content versus other base as darker Munich malts and lighter malts depending on the barley variety Munich malts can have very differ- the maltster uses, which can provide ent characteristics. Lighter Munich an added benefit for better head re- malts are less kilned than their darker tention in the beer. This may not al- counterparts so they will have more ways hold true when comparing from enzymes still intact and should still a single maltster, as oftentimes the be able to convert the mash fairly maltster is using a single barley vari- easily. Darker Munich malts, on the ety for multiple malts they produce. other hand, because of the higher You should check the soluble protein temperatures of the kilning, will have of the malt before using it, but if you much less enzymatic activity and you are looking to add a little extra protein should compensate with some other content to your beer, you can consider base malts in the mash bill to achieve adding a high-protein Pilsner malt in Vienna malt is a bit more highly- full conversion. smaller portions. If you want to rep- kilned than the other base malts, and The flavor of Munich malts tends licate a traditional Pilsner style, us- will really shine with its malty fla- to be deep grainy/malty, sometimes ing 100% Pilsner malt is definitely the vors and aromas. It is slightly darker bordering on toasty depending on best way to go. than other base malts and will usually how highly they were kilned. Munich be in the 4 degrees Lovibond range. malt is usually called for in German- PALE ALE MALT Even though it is more highly-kilned style dark lagers, bocks, Munich dun- Pale ale malt is slightly more kilned than the other base malts, it still has kels, and Oktoberfest styles. than pale malt and will have a slightly enough enzymatic activity to com- You might be wondering why Vi- darker color. Usually in the 2.5–3 de- plete conversion on its own. enna and Munich malts are on the list

4 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine – Malt © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved of base malts. This is mostly because the quality of the malt so storing it in base malts and the savings that come of their ability to convert starches to a cool, dry place will prolong the life along with purchasing 50-lb./22.7-kg sugars and because these malts are and quality of the malt. Keeping the sacks vs. just enough for each single used as base malts for classic styles malt whole and protected by the husk batch individually. Investing in good from these areas. They still have until brew day is another important malt storage containers can defi- enough diastatic power to do the work step in keeping the quality of the malt nitely help to prolong the life of the of base malts. They kind of bridge the the same as when you bought it. If you malt. Good storage containers should gap between base malts and specialty do need to crush it and then store it, be made of a strong, durable material malts and can be used as either. Vi- or if you purchased pre-crushed malt, (plastic works great), and should be enna and light Munich can be used keep it in a dark, cool, extremely dry airtight. They should be able to keep upwards of 100% in recipes, but more place, and use it as quickly as possible. out moisture and bugs to keep the often they are used in lower percent- Unlike whole malts, crushed malts malt dry and free of contaminates. ages to add some color, body, and fla- do not have an intact husk to add an Base malts do more than just add vor to the beer. extra layer of protection from excess carbohydrates and aroma to the beer, moisture and can go stale much more they play an important role in the fi- STORAGE quickly. nal beer product. There are many base Finally, a quick note on storage of One quick and easy check is to give malt options available (maybe not as base malts. Because base malts are the malt a taste. If it tastes stale or much as specialty malts), but know- not as highly-kilned as other spe- unusual, it might have gone bad or be ing the subtle differences and choos- cialty malts, they are usually not able on the downturn. Another quick test ing the right base malt can take your to be stored as long as specialty malts. would be to weigh the malt to see how beer from great to amazing. Using the With proper storage, base malts can much moisture the malt has picked correct base malt will also help you start to see loss of quality and flavor up. If you had an exact weight of the to accurately replicate styles from after 6 months. Specialty malts, on fresh malt (say 50 lbs./22.7 kg) and around the world. While big, bold fla- the other hand, can start to see loss of the malt now weights significantly vor contributors may be seen as the flavor and quality after 12–18 months. more (say 50.5 lbs./22.9 kg) it has stars of the show, base malts still play A base malt that has started to go picked up moisture and that can lead an important role in your beer. Know- bad will see loss of enzymatic activity, to mold or undesirable flavors. ing the options of base malts avail- may be harder to grind, and some- Base malts are some of the best to able and choosing the right one is the times can add a haze to the final beer purchase in bulk because of how much foundation to building an awesome product. Moisture is going to degrade of the grain bill typically consists of beer.

Base malts are the foundation beer is built on. They are the major contributor of the carbohydrates (from starch), proteins, and enzymes in beer.

hat do I mean by the term specialty malts? In fact it is a bit of a vague term, and the W best I can do is to say that specialty malts are those malts added in small amounts with the intention of achieving a special effect, such as coloring the beer or giving it a special flavor. As such, their contribution to extract yield is not overly important as compared to base malts. In that sense you can argue that crystal and black malts fit this definition, but we’ve been there, got the commemo- rative glass, so I will only talk about other specialty malts here. Most of those I shall cover are either toasted or roasted, and several are quite distinct products and come in only one form, such as amber, brown, Victory®, Special B, and Bel-

gian Biscuit. Chocolate malts on the Plus Parker/Images A. Charles by Photo other hand come in a variety of forms, varying in levels of roasting and color. than the other two, and is said to give efficiency. It is a malt that is really Many specialty malts simply require almost a sourdough flavor so it needs designed for use in lagers, so that they steeping to pull out whatever goodies to be used with care in paler and more mimic those produced by decoction they have, so they are well suited to delicate beers. However these malts mashing. That means that it can be extract brewing, although some such can be used to your advantage in al- used in most other beer styles where as amber and brown may require you most all beer styles, except pale ales you are looking for a little more body to do a partial mash. Their impor- and pale lagers. I particularly like to and fullness without adding caramel tance lies in the fact that their vari- use Victory® malt in an IPA while or roasted flavors such as English ety, when combined with the range Special Roast goes well in a robust bitter, brown ales, amber ales and so of base malts available, permits you porter or oatmeal stout. You can add on. I also think it helps to soften the to produce beers with a huge range them at the rate of up to 15% of the roasted aspects of the various forms of flavors, colors and aromas. The grist, though I generally prefer 5-10%, of stouts. It can be added at rates up possibilities are endless, a point not depending what other specialty malts to 20% of the grist, but I prefer to understood by most wine critics who are in the recipe in question. In fact, limit it to about 10%, especially where think that it is their beverage that has I have used as much as 20% of Vic- significant amounts of other specialty the greatest variety of flavors, usually tory® malt in an IPA where it is the malts are used. Using it in an extract because they are ignorant enough to only specialty malt, and I have been brew would require a partial mash think there is only one style of beer! pleased with the results. For extract with pale malt to be carried out. brewing, these malts are relative- BUSCUIT MALT ly starchy and perform best when SPECIAL B MALT Let’s start with biscuit malts. There mashed with a pale (enzymatic) malt. Next is Special B malt, a Belgian are three that I am conversant, Briess product that is really a type of crys- Victory® Malt, at 28 °L, Belgian Bis- MELANOIDIN MALT tal malt, but the production process is cuit Malt (20 °L) and Briess Special Melanoidin malt is a German prod- such that it has a very different fla- Roast (50 °L). All of them yield a start- uct and has some similarity to higher vor from other crystal malts. Special ing gravity (SG) of 1.022–1.024/lb./ dried Munich malts, but is definitely B has been roasted 130–150 °L and has gallon (5.6–6.1 °P) at 65% brewhouse more aromatic and provides a malty a strong caramel and raisin flavor, but efficiency and add biscuit or bready fullness in the beer. It has a moderate without the roasty notes that may be notes to the beer, as well as some color at 23–31 °L, but with somewhat conferred by crystal malts of a similar brown color. Special Roast is of course of a reddish hue. It will yield 1.024– color. more highly flavored and colored 1.025 SG/lb./gallon (5.8–6.3 °P) at 65% Special B gives a relatively low ex-

6 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine – Malt © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved tract yield of 1.020 SG/lb./gallon (5.1 as the internal moisture boiled. Mod- vor can be expected to be somewhat °P) at 65% efficiency. It is quite versa- ern brown malt is different in that it harsh, with less cocoa-type, or nutty tile and can be used to your advantage is drum-dried rather than kilned, and flavors. Note that Weyermann also in many beer styles, particularly mild, is taken to a higher temperature than has their Carafa® Special I, II, and III brown and amber ales, English bitter, amber malt, making it darker in color that are made from de-husked bar- porters and stouts. It confers a nice (50–70 °L), with an extract potential ley, so that for a given color level they warm red hue in all styles except the of around 1.022 SG/lb./gallon (5.6 will give a somewhat smoother flavor darker stouts. I like to use it in East °P) for 65% efficiency. Until recently than other chocolate malts. Choco- Coast IPAs, which tend to be more it was only an English product but late malts give an extract yield at 65% malty and balanced than their dry, Briess now offers their Carabrown® efficiency of 1.022 SG/lb./gallon (5.6 highly-hopped West Coast cousins. Malt WK, which they quote as being °P) and can be leached out by steeping It can easily be overdone, for it has a on the light side of the brown malt in hot water, so chocolate malt is ideal strong enough presence to unbalance style at 55 °L. for use in extract brewing. Just for the the lighter beers and I would limit its Brown malt will add sweetness, record, Weyermann goes even fur- use to no more than 5% of the total some biscuity character, some toast- ther and makes chocolate wheat malt grist. It requires only steeping for use ed notes, caramel, toffee, and par- (300–450 °L), and chocolate rye malt in extract beers. ticularly licorice flavors. It contains (188–300 °L), although I haven’t yet some starch and can only be used seen these in any of my homebrewing AMBER MALT when mashed along with pale malt. supplier’s catalogues. Amber malt is drum-dried malt, but I think 20% of the grist would be a Preeminent in porters and stouts, is subjected to a temperature only good top limit for most beers, but 10- chocolate malts are usually used at somewhat slightly higher than would 15% would be sufficient in the case of the rate of 5-10% of the grist, de- be the case for pale malt. It is mod- lower gravity beers. Quite obviously it pending on the style. But at some- est in color at 20–30 °L, and will give works very well in porters and in all what lower rates they add something an extract yield of 1.022–1.023 SG/lb./ forms of stout, but at lower addition to a whole range of other beers from gallon (5.6–5.8 °P). Amber malt im- rates it also adds something to mild, brown, mild, amber, and old ales to parts little in the way of sweetness, brown and old ales. In such cases it even English bitter in small amounts. but does add some body and a biscu- will give even better results when The very pale types can also be used ity, nutty flavor to beer. used with an equivalent amount of in dark lagers, especially doppelbock, In its original form it was a clas- amber malt. I haven’t tried it, but a but the de-husked varieties are even sic porter ingredient in the late 18th touch of brown malt might also work more fitted for this purpose, and in- and early 19th centuries, when many well in dark lagers, and even in black deed are good in any brew where you porter grist formulations consisted of IPAs. It will be obvious from the above want chocolate flavor without roasti- equal parts pale, amber, and brown that you will need to do a partial mash ness. malts. Modern amber may well be with this malt and some pale malt, different in flavor to the earlier type, along with any other specialty malts SUMMING UP but can still add complexity, espe- you wish to use, in your extract beers. There are other specialty malts out cially in mild, brown and amber ales, there, such as oat malt, rye malt, and porters, although its flavor tends CHOCOLATE MALT peated and smoked malts that I have to be drowned in hoppy beers. Adding Chocolate malt is an old favorite, excluded, partly due to lack of space, it at the rate of 10-15% of the grist in a which we all know as a high-roast but also because their use is limited to mash is usually the best way to go and product coming in at the far end of only a few beer styles. The malts I have works especially well for a brown por- the spectrum just before the ultimate dealt with have applications in a wide ter. Amber malt does contain some roasted product black malt. Yet it is range of styles, and should be consid- starch and must be used in a partial not just one product, for the “degree ered whenever you start to work out a mash along with pale malt if you want of roast” and the color of chocolate new recipe, or want to get something to use it in an extract brew. You may malt covers quite a range and varies extra out of an old recipe. I have dealt want to use it in only small amounts from one manufacturer to another. with them separately, but they are along with the more flavorful brown In general, chocolate malt confers more commonly used in combina- or biscuit malts. chocolate, nutty and light roasted fla- tion with one another, which means vors to beer. But the point I want to that the permutations of flavors you BROWN MALT make from Table 1 is that the higher can achieve with these malts makes it In historical terms, brown malt is the color, the more highly the malt easy to brew distinctive beers. When the porter malt, for it was quoted as has been roasted and the stronger the formulating a recipe, think care- being the sole malt used on brewing flavor effect will be, for a given rate of fully as to what you want to achieve, porters. It was prepared by drying addition. Indeed, at the very top of the then run down the list of these malts the green malt very quickly in such a color spectrum this malt comes close and see if any fit what you are l manner that the grain would “pop” to the color of black malt, so the fla- ooking for.

he brewer’s mash is the last step of many taken, prior to lautering, to produce wort from T starch. The process begins in the malt house where barley is germinated and then dried. Malting gives the grain a rich complement of enzymes that are stabilized by kilning. Brewers must control these enzymes during mashing to produce a wort with specific features. On the surface the brewery mash appears to be a simple mixture of malt and water. When held hot for a period the mash begins to thin, producing a cloudy, semi-sweet liquid, then transforming into a mixture of clear, intensely sweet wort and spent grains. Beyond these macroscopic changes lie important biochemical reactions that convert the starch found in the grain into sugar. Malt enzymes act

as catalysts, in a sense causing these Plus Parker/Images A. Charles by Photos reactions. Mashing begins when malt solids substrate concentration, and product the mash. As this reaction proceeds, dissolve. These solids are primarily concentration are the mash variables the concentration of products (such made up of starch but also include a that can be easily controlled. as smaller carbohydrates) begins to significant portion of proteins. In- Mash temperature has a great in- build up and can slow down the reac- cluded among the proteins are the fluence on which enzymes are active, tions occurring in the mash. In addi- catalysts, malt enzymes. The en- because enzyme activity depends on tion to the speed or rate of the reac- zymes latch onto mainly starch and temperature. Temperature also can tion, concentration can affect enzyme smaller carbohydrate molecule chains cause enzymes to denature and per- stability. in a mash, bringing about a chemical manently lose their catalytic activ- reaction. These starch and carbohy- ity. The principle enzymes involved WHAT DOES IT ALL MEAN? drates are called substrates, because in mashing all have different optimal The concentration of enzyme, sub- they are broken down by the protein- temperatures. strate, and product fall under the based enzymes during the reaction. Like temperature, mash pH affects umbrella of “mash thickness.” Mash Smaller proteins, smaller beta- enzyme activity. Enzymes must be in thickness is the weight ratio of water glucans (viscous gums that contrib- specific pH ranges to be active cata- in the mash to malt in the mash. ute to wort viscosity), sugars, and lysts. In general the mash pH should Since one liter of water weighs one dextrins (unfermentable carbohy- fall between 5.2 and 5.4, because the kilogram, mash thickness is easily drates that add body to beer) are the enzymes of interest to brewers are ac- determined when malt is measured products of enymatic attack and their tive in this range. With most brewing in kilograms and water is measured parent compounds — proteins, beta- waters and malts mash pH naturally in liters. For example, if 12 liters of glucans, and starch — are called en- falls in this range, so pH is not one water go into a mash with four kilo- zyme substrates. of the mash variables that demands grams of malt, the mash thickness vigilant monitoring. — or if you are British, the liquor to TAKING CHARGE Other attributes that affect en- grist ratio — is 3:1. Although this is The brewer’s challenge is to let nature zyme action are the concentrations of the most common way of expressing travel its free-wheeling road but in a enzymes, substrates, and their prod- mash thickness, some brewers use controlled environment. ucts. These features are very impor- the ratio of malt to water and express Mash temperature, mash pH, wa- tant, because they influence the rate the ratio as a percentage. In the pre- ter chemistry, enzyme concentration, at which starch is broken down in vious example the mash thickness

8 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine – Malt © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved could also be called 33 percent malt. can cause incomplete breakdown of transfer than a thick mash. These In both cases it is simply the weight starch during mashing. Although mashes are easy to pump, if required. ratio of water to malt. mashes are rarely thick enough to Commercial breweries, for example, Although there are infinite mash cause incomplete starch conversion, pump the mash from the mash vessel thicknesses to use in brewing, three very thick mashes can slightly de- to the lauter tun. generic ranges of thickness are used crease wort fermentability. Although thinning out the mash in practice. These are the “thick A less subtle result of thick mash- makes the enzymes less concentrated mash,” the “medium-thick mash,” es is noticeably lower extract yield. and hence more susceptible to tem- and the “thin mash.” These terms Thick mashes simply cannot bring all perature denaturation, this only oc- do not define thickness in absolute of the malt starch into solution. Al- curs if the mash is conducted at an terms, but they do convey some im- though decreased extract yield is not unacceptably high temperature. In portant messages to the brewer. going to send any homebrewer to the general an infusion mash tempera- poor house, commercial brewers are ture of 150 to 155 ˚F (66 to 68 °C) in a THE THICK MASH not very fond of this side of the thick medium-thick mash allows sufficient In a thick mash the concentrations mash. beta-amylase activity before render- of enzymes, substrates, and products The last major problem with thick ing it inactive (beta-amylase usually are all high, since there is a bunch mashes is the high concentration of begins losing activity above 149 °F/ of malt in a little bit of water. In nu- starch breakdown products. This fea- 65 °C). merical terms a thick mash is any- ture is easy to spot when the specific After beta-amylase is denatured, thing less than about 2.5 parts water gravity of the first runnings from the alpha-amylase remains active be- to one part malt. The rule of thumb mash is taken. In thick mashes the cause it is less sensitive to these tem- for mash thickness quoted in many first running gravity is usually greater peratures, it can survive up to 170 °F homebrewing books is one quart of than 20˚ Plato (1.078). These products (77 °C). If multi-temperature mash- water per pound of malt; as a weight can interfere with enzyme action, re- ing is used, then these problems are ratio that is 2.1:1. That is a pretty darn sulting in what is called product inhi- alleviated, regardless of thickness. thick mash! bition. But the thinner mash makes stirring The thick mash has certain rami- Product inhibition may serve to easier. fications. The most striking feature is control the millions of enzymatic re- The thinner mash also decreases that it provides substantial protection actions occurring every second in the the concentration of substrates and to the enzymes present in the mash. human body, but it is not the brewer’s products. This minimizes the effects In other words the enzymes are less best friend. In the mash, product in- of product inhibition, the slowing of likely to be denatured (stripped of hibition can lead to incomplete starch chemical reactions caused by build- qualities that allow it to catalyze the breakdown and decreased extract up, and also eliminates the loss of desired reaction) by high tempera- yield and fermentability. extract associated with very thick tures. This feature allows beta-am- Some enzymes, especially prote- mashes. ylase and alpha-amylase to work in ases (enzymes that attack protein), In general the medium-thick concert, which is handy for a single- are very sensitive to product inhibi- mash provides for good enzyme ac- temperature mash. Without the pro- tion and are not very active in such tivity, allows for easy stirring and tection of the thick mash, beta-am- environments. Periodically stirring pumping, will produce a wort with a ylase could be quickly denatured and a thick mash can help to alleviate high degree of fermentability, and the resulting wort would be predomi- product inhibition, since stirring dis- produces a good extract yield from nated by the products of alpha-amy- tributes the enzymatic products that the malt. However, if a mistake is lase action. Such a wort would have a naturally accumulate near enzymes. made by mashing in too hot, then the high concentration of unfermentable chance of causing irreversible enzyme carbohydrates. The resulting beer MEDIUM-THICK MASHES loss is higher than if the same mis- would have a higher terminal gravity If a mash thickness less than 2.5:1 is take is made in a thick mash. and lower alcohol content than a beer thick, then a mash thickness between made from a more fermentable wort. 2.5:1 and 4:1 should be medium. In THIN MASHES practice a thickness of about 3.25:1 Thin mashes are any mashes where ON THE OTHER HAND best captures the feel of the medi- the water-to-malt ratio exceeds 4:1. Thick mashes do have obvious ad- um-thick mash. These mashes retain Like the medium-thick mashes, thin vantages, but there are some prob- many advantages of the thick mash mashes are easy to move around and lems. Water is required to break down but few of the downsides. Addition- provide excellent heat transfer. They starch. Water is chemically inserted ally, mashes in this range of stiffness also give high extract yields, since the between the glucose molecules of are easy to move around. This feature malt solids are easily dissolved. the starch polymer during hydroly- is important when conducting stirred, The problem with thin mashes is sis (the enzyme-directed breakdown multi-temperature mashes as it al- enzyme stability. Enzymes are less of starch) and a shortage of water lows for easier mixing and better heat stable in a thin mash and denatur-

9 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine – Malt © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved ation can become a real problem. The temperature in hopes of killing off beers such as some mild ales. If these enzyme of concern is beta-amylase, most of the beta-amylase before pro- beers have tickled your taste buds, since there is a limiting supply of be- ducing much maltose. In thick and then mash thickness control may be ta-amylase in comparison to alpha- medium-thick mashes, high temper- the parameter you’ve been looking amylase. If beta-amylase denatures atures are not as destructive as may for to brew low-alcohol beers without too quickly, then the resulting wort be expected. Most of the so-called sacrificing body. will have a decreased fermentability. optimum temperatures for enzymes The next time you’re mashing, Some multi-temperature mash are for model systems carried out in consider mash thickness in addition schedules suggest adding very hot laboratories. Since these tempera- to temperature and pH as one of the water to increase temperature. This tures are usually not representative parameters that sets the stage for the technique thins the mash and can of mashing conditions, exceeding dance of the enzymes. render enzymes, especially beta- text book numbers does not always do amylase, inactive when they are the trick. most needed. You may not like this This is where varying mash thick- method unless you want to limit ness becomes an effective method fermentability. of wielding control over the mash. To limit fermentability, a thin mash INTO THE THICK OF IT coupled with high temperatures (say It may seem like the logical conclu- 160˚F/71 °C) may be more effective sion is to only use thick and medium- than mashing at 170˚ F (77 °C) in a thick mashes. But for some special very thick mash. cases thin mashes may do just the This topic has become of interest trick. Suppose the goal is to produce to many commercial brewers in re- a wort with good extract yield and cent years who have taken an inter- a negative iodine reaction but with est in low- and non-alcohol beers. low fermentability (such as a low- Although homebrewers are usually alcohol beer). not looking to produce bland, low- Some brewers try to accomplish alcohol products, some are dabbling this goal by mashing at a very high with full-flavored but low-alcohol

eer brewing is an art, and not just a technical exercise, as my friend Randy Mosher is fond B of reminding me. Many of you know Randy as the author of great books like Radical Brewing and Mas- tering Homebrew, but he is also an accomplished graphic artist who ap- proaches beer design from a much different perspective than my own engineering brain does. A few years ago Randy approached me with some draft portions of his recent book Mastering Homebrew. He made the observation that there are relatively few kilned or caramel malts made in the color zone between 70 °L and 200 °L. The reason for this is that malts in this “harsh zone,” when used in excess, have unpleasant properties Plus Parker/Images A. Charles by Photo and flavors like burnt toast, burnt as amber, melanoidin, honey, and which add body to the finished beer marshmallows, tannic bitterness, and brown are kilned and dried in the as they do not fully break down dur- harsh tones, which overpowers a beer. same process as base malts, initially ing fermentation. However, overuse at low heat, but then the tempera- of caramel malts can produce sickly TYPES OF MALTS ture is raised significantly once the sweet, unbalanced beers. To understand the harsh zone, we first grains reach a certain dryness level need to understand the different type to produce a darker malt with many • Roasted Caramel/Crystal Malts of malts and how they are made. base-like properties with few or no (1-120 °L): Green malt is transferred The malting process starts with enzymes. from the germination compartment raw barley grain. The raw barley is to the roaster where a relatively high typically immersed in water, bringing • Kilned Caramel Malts (1–150 °L): level of moisture is retained in the its water content up high enough to After the malt has been wetted and the malt during a conversion process that get the seed to germinate and sprout. acrospire has formed, it is transferred simulates a mini-mash occurring in- The grains are allowed to grow for a to the kiln, but not immediately dried. side each kernel. Once conversion is few days until the small shoot, called Instead, the temperature of the wet complete, the malt is dried, and the an acrospire, reaches a length roughly malt is raised to about 122 °F (50 °C) to product temperature is increased equal to the length of the grain itself. begin a stewing process that mashes to achieve the desired color and fla- Small rootlets will also form outside the sugars within the husk. Slowly, vor. Unlike caramel malts produced the grain, though these will fall off the temperature is raised to approxi- in a kiln, roasted caramel malts are and be separated during kilning. mately 150 °F (66 °C), converting most homogenous and have a uniform, The grains are next dried, though of the starch in the grain to simple crystalline endosperm. The flavor of the method used varies depending on sugars. The grains are then dried in a roasted caramel/crystal malts range the type of grain being produced: kiln where the temperature can also from caramel, toffee, sweet to burnt be raised to produce darker caramel sugar, roasted marshmallow, dried • Base Malts (1–10 °L): Base malts malts, much as we produce darker fruit. Green malt roasted beyond 120 such as pale, Pilsner, Vienna, and kilned malts. Non-homogeneity in °L may enter the “harsh zone” where Munich malts are kilned at low heat. the kiln bed leads to very dark malt on it will take on a woody, dark toast, Typically, moisture is reduced to the bottom (exceeding 150 °L) contrib- coffee flavor. under 10% when kilning and often uting harsh notes even at moderately English malts are dried further. colored kilned caramel malts (above • Roasted Malts (200–600 °L): 60 °L ). The caramel malts contain Roasted malts are made by taking • Kilned Malts (10–70 °L): Malts such longer sugar chains called dextrines, dried base malts and putting them in

11 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine – Malt © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved a drum roaster to be roasted at very Melanoidin malts are typically kilned sparingly you can get toasted raisin, high temperatures. The key to making in the 25–35 °L range but a few dark figs, cherry, or plum notes from it. In great roasted malt is not only choos- examples may be kilned up to 60 °L. large quantities you will get a pungent ing the right temperature and point to Melanoidin malt is often used by burnt sugar flavor along with acrid stop roasting, but also rapidly cooling brewers to “simulate” the malty fla- bitterness from tannins. the grains when the appropriate roast vors one might get from a decoction level is reached. There is one excep- mash, and tends to impart a strong • Light/Pale Chocolate Malt 200–250 tion, which is roasted barley, also malty finish, with hints of biscuit °L: From the name, one might assume called stout roast, which is made from and honey. Some variants take on a that this is merely a lighter, gentler unmalted barley roasted at very high red hue, and most varieties of mela- version of chocolate malt. While the temperatures. noidin are unlikely to impart harsh color is indeed slightly lighter than off-flavors due to the low color range, chocolate malt, it actually imparts a HARSH ZONE MALTS and are typically used for 3–10% of the more piercing coffee-like roast fla- Mosher defines malts in the 70–200 °L grist. vor to the finished beer. Because this color range to be “harsh zone” malts. malt is right on the edge of the harsh This includes many popular dark crys- • Brown Malt: Also a kilned malt that zone, it is more sharp and piercing tal malts such as caramel/crystal 80 is on the lower edge of the harsh zone than chocolate malt. Used in large °L, 100 °L, and 120 °L, as well as Special at 60–70 °L. Brown malt was once quantities, you will often get harsh B (which is also a caramel malt) and the base for traditional porter styles, burnt-coffee flavors along with tan- some malts on the edge of the harsh though it is rarely used these days. It nic bitterness akin to sucking on a tea zone like brown malt and pale choco- has a dark toasted grainy flavor and bag. In small quantities, however, it late malt. imparts mocha and bitter chocolate can give a nice coffee-like finish par- Used in small quantities, these flavors. If used in excess, the bitter ticularly when combined with other malts can add dried fruit, plum, choc- chocolate flavor can dominate and specialty malts. olate, mocha, coffee, toasted marsh- take on tannic, burnt grain, burnt mallow, and caramel flavors. When toast, or burnt coffee notes. I like to • Chocolate Malt 350–400 °L (and overused, they result in flavors like use this malt in robust porters, but Carafa® I): Though these malts, like burnt toast, burnt marshmallow, generally keep it below 5% and com- melanoidin, are outside the harsh campfire character, and harsh tannic bine it with other dark specialty malts zone, they do take on some of the flavors akin to sucking on a tea bag. to add complexity and depth. sharpness and bitterness you will A common “beginner” mistake, find in light/pale chocolate malts. for example, is to add crystal 80 °L • Kilned Caramel/Crystal 80 °L: In In fact many people don’t know that (or darker) malts to something like my opinion, this is probably the most chocolate and Carafa® malts are more an English brown ale to darken the overused and abused harsh zone malt, piercing and bitter than black malt. color. Often the beer will take on a as many brewers use it to “add color These malts tend to be bittersweet, very harsh finish and unpleasant and body” to a recipe, not know- sharp with a coffee character, and bit- character, as a relatively large portion ing that they are significantly alter- terness can be dominating if used in of this moderately colored malt must ing the flavor balance. Crystal 80 °L, large proportions. They taste nothing be used to achieve a brown color. This unlike its lighter siblings, takes on like chocolate! Carafa® tends to be a is very common for extract brewers, more of a burnt sugar flavor with bit smoother than chocolate malt. who tend to use dark crystal and light hints of raisin and caramel. In small roasted malts interchangeably. Malts quantities, raisins, figs, or caramel USING HARSH ZONE MALTS in the harsh zone have unique flavors will come through, but used in large Here are a few rules of thumb to con- that should be used with caution and quantities, the burnt sugar can be sider when adding harsh zone malts with the intention to add flavor rather quite pronounced. to your beer: than color. The following are gener- alizations about “harsh zone” malts • Caramel/Crystal 100–120 °L: These • Don’t use harsh zone malts for and may not apply to every malt on malts have an intense roast sugar color: I avoid using harsh zone malts the market with a similar name. flavor, and can be quite bitter with a when I want to just add a bit of color Unique production methods will dic- Turkish coffee finish. Used in small to my beer. You are better off using tate the flavor of a malt, so it is sug- amounts you will get toasted raisins either lighter crystal or kilned malts, gested to familiarize yourself with a or figs, but overuse will lead to acrid or alternately very small quantities of malt’s extractable flavor contribution bitter and burnt flavors. chocolate, black patent, or stout roast. before brewing. The darker roasted malts, in particu- Let’s look at each of the malts in • Special B 120–140 °L: Special B is lar, can add significant color with only and around the harsh zone, and the technically a very dark Belgian crystal a small amount of malt that won’t flavors you can achieve from them: malt usually roasted to 120–140 °L in throw off your flavor balance. color. It can have flavor elements of • Melanoidin Malt: A kilned malt that both the very dark crystal 120 °L malt • Use harsh zone malts sparingly: is generally below the harsh zone. and also light chocolate malt. Used Harsh zone malts are great flavor

12 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine – Malt © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved additions, but you need to use small ating burnt or tannic bitterness. The base malt, black patent, and chocolate quantities — typically 3–5% of your Chocolate malt provides a strong roast proportions and swapping out brown grain bill. For example, Special B will finish to the beer, and finally just a malt for the caramel 60 °L, I should be really help add depth, plum and rai- bit of black patent gives the beer a able to get a very strong, rich imperial sin notes, and complexity to a porter roasty edge that you might expect in a stout that can stand up to blending or stout, but if you use too much the robust porter. with a sack mead. burnt sugar, burnt marshmallow, and To balance the beer, which is a acrid bitterness will come through. bit edgy, I did hop with Centennial CONCLUSTION at a pretty high hop rate (47 IBUs), I encourage you to work hard to be- • Use malts with a purpose: Avoid and then finish it with an English ale come familiar with the flavor profiles the “kitchen sink” approach to beer yeast, again to accentuate complex- of all of the major malts available brewing where you add every malt in ity, esters, and a slightly malty finish. whether they are base malts, caramel your cabinet to a recipe thinking it I chose Centennial over a traditional malts, kilned malts, or roasted malts. will make great beer. Make sure each English hop because I enjoy its aroma/ Each malt has its own unique charac- ingredient has a purpose and fits the flavor profile and it has enough alpha ter, aroma, and taste, and unfortu- style and flavor profile you are trying acids to deliver the bitterness needed. nately many malts are “misnamed” to create. After brewing, the beer did deliver in that their name does not represent the “robust porter” complexity I was the flavor that is to be expected from A HARSH ZONE EXAMPLE looking for. Though I used only one them. A sensory evaluation is needed Harsh zone malts are very appropriate harsh zone malt, that combined with in order to fully understand the ex- in certain styles of beer. For example, the caramel 60 °L and chocolate malts tractable flavor contribution of your I enjoy adding them to stouts and from just outside the harsh zone plus malt. porters, particularly English versions, a dash of black patent gave the porter Harsh zone malts can be a powerful as they create complexity and depth. some real depth. It’s not a one-di- tool if you are aware of their strengths Here’s an excerpt malt bill from a re- mensional beer, but instead has lay- and weaknesses and harness them to cent robust porter I brewed: ers of flavor, which you can achieve create great beer. Key concepts include by combining harsh zone malts with the idea of having a clear purpose for 87% Maris Otter pale malt other specialty malts in appropriate every single malt you add to your grain 3.6% Caramel malt (60 °L) proportions. Centennial fit in well bill. Use specialty grains sparingly, 3.6% Special B with the beer, providing enough bit- especially those in the harsh zone. 3.6% Chocolate malt terness and flavor to offset the strong Develop depth by combining a hand- 2% Black patent malt flavor profile of the malt. ful of specific flavors rather than add- 47 IBUs from Centennial hops I’m using the lessons learned ing everything but the “kitchen sink.” White Labs WLP002 (English Ale from this beer for a Russian imperial Finally, don’t use harsh zone malts to Yeast) stout that I hope to blend with mead just “add color” to your beer, as this to make a braggot. By stepping up the will destroy your flavor balance. My intention here was to create a complex, robust, slightly sharp porter with some depth and complexity, perhaps riding the line between a robust porter and a stout. The Maris Otter base provides a strong foundation of English malt with a lot of character to it, and notice that nearly 90% of the malt bill is base malt. You don’t need to add 20–30% specialty malts to create a beer with depth of flavor. Caramel 60 °L gives the beer some English maltiness and character, but is also dark enough to provide some fruit hints without being overly harsh. Special B is the only harsh zone malt, and it provides depth as well as character. At 3.6% of the malt bill it is enough to bring out toasted raisin, prunes, and some bitter notes without being overwhelming or cre- When overused, harsh zone malts (between 70–200 °L) result in burnt flavors and harsh tannins.

teeping specialty grains is a common practice for many homebrewers, particularly those S who brew extract or partial- mash recipes. As with many things in the beer brewing process, there are trade-offs to be made in time, labor, extract efficiency, flavor, color, body and foam when we compare one approach of brewing with specialty grains to another. Cold steeping specialty grains is no exception. There are some significant benefits to be gained in reduced astringency, increased flavor, color, and aroma, when using a cold-steeping process. However, there Photo by Charles A. Parker/Images Plus Parker/Images A. Charles by Photo can also be a trade-off in extract efficiency. This can be compensated for rather than hops, so addressing the re- from those grains. Now that we have by using a greater amount of specialty duction of tannin extraction from malt a handle on how astringency can hap- grains in the steeping process, segre- and specialty grain husks is important pen, let’s take a look at the particulars gating which specialty grains will go in in limiting astringency in nearly every of the cold steeping process to see how the mash (or partial-mash) and which style of beer. So no matter what style we can make it work to our advantage ones will be steeped in cold water, or of beer you are brewing, this reduction in making better beer. by adding other adjuncts or malt ex- in astringency is precisely the point of Since darker roasted grains have tracts to make up any shortfall in orig- pursuing cold steeping in your own the greatest proportion of husk poly- inal gravity. brewing process. phenols and thus potential for extrac- The currently popular process of Tannin extraction from grain husks tion of tannins, it would make sense cold-brewing coffee provides an in- (particularly dark roasted grains) is di- to cold steep dark specialty grains teresting parallel to cold-steeping rectly proportional to the time, tem- such as black patent malt, chocolate specialty grains. Cold-brewed coffee perature, pH, and the volume of water malt, Carafa® malts, or roasted bar- results in a less acidic, smoother fla- that the specialty grains are exposed ley, to minimize the potential for as- vored, and potentially more caffein- to before they end up in the final wort. tringency. Since these dark roasted ated drink, at the expense of reduced With that in mind, a long steep in a grains do not contribute significant efficiency of the amount of beverage large volume of hot water at a high pH amounts of fermentable sugars when produced from the amount of ground would extract the most tannins from included in a mash, there is no par- coffee beans used. The main benefit grain husks and produce the greatest ticular reason to mash them at typical to cold steeping specialty grains is potential astringency. This scenario starch conversion temperatures of 148 to reduce the astringency extracted is often the tactic used for steeping a to 158 °F (64.5-70 °C) in order to get the from the husks of dark roasted barley small amount of specialty grain in a flavor and color we want from them. or barley malt in the main or partial few gallons of water as it is heated be- If you are a frugal brewer like me, you mash. Astringency occurs when the fore adding malt extract to the water can include the not-so-dark specialty grains are held in water at higher tem- when brewing an extract kit that in- malts (Vienna, Munich, caramel, bis- peratures than typical cold tap water. cludes those specialty grains. Also, cuit, etc.) that can contribute fer- Astringency is the off-flavor result- consider a typical mash where spe- mentable sugars in your mash instead ing primarily from tannins, which are cialty grains are held in relatively hot of cold steeping them. As long as you naturally occurring polyphenols found water for an extended period of time, take the usual precautions of sparg- in grain husks. This is why some dark and we can see that there is a signifi- ing with water at a temperature of 168 roasted specialty grains are offered in cant opportunity for tannin extraction °F (75.5 °C) that has been adjusted to dehusked versions, to reduce the ex- from grain husks in either extract plus a pH between 5.7–6.5, and cease col- traction of tannins in a typical mash specialty grains, or all-grain brewing. lecting wort at a specific gravity of while preserving the dark color and Cold steeping dark specialty grains about 1.008, tannin extraction can be roast flavors in the wort. In a typi- greatly reduces the temperature of kept to a minimum. In this way, you cal beer, the majority of the tannins the water that they are exposed to and can derive the most sugar from the present are derived from grain husks thus the potential to extract tannins grains in your mash while minimizing

14 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine – Malt © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved astringency. continuously but gently agitate the total, or in stages, to your homebrew By segregating the dark grains in a vessel and its contents for one hour. recipe so take good notes. cold steep, we can reap the flavor and This could be accomplished by manu- For dark beers, where astringency color contributions they offer while ally rocking or swirling a sealed bucket is of particular concern, cold-steeping minimizing potential astringency. If while watching your favorite sports dark specialty grains can be an alter- you choose to cold steep your lighter team on TV, or any number of other native to using dehusked grains or in kilned grains together with the dark imaginative systems or devices you cases where the specialty grains you grains anyway, you can expect a sugar may come up with to keep the mixture wish to include in your brew are not extract efficiency of between 25% from moving. available in a dehusked form. Beer pale malts or 50% from any crystal The third method for cold steep- styles such as dark European lagers, malts. Crystal malts provide greater ing is to implement a virtual vorlauf black India pale ale (IPA), oatmeal extract when steeped because they by placing the grains and water mix- stout, or other dark beers where a have already been “stewed” to achieve ture in a mash tun equipped above a smoother, less astringent flavor is a greater degree of starch conversion perforated false bottom and recircu- desired are great candidates to experi- to sugar within the kernel during the lating the liquid for about an hour, by ment with the cold steeping process of malting process. With that said, you drawing liquid from the bottom and dark specialty grains. can choose to increase the amount pouring it back on top, or with the aid Cold steeping specialty grains also of the lightly kilned malts in a cold of a pump. This approach would si- extracts a good portion of the proteins steep to compensate for the reduced multaneously filter the resulting liq- from the grains that contribute to head efficiency or make up the difference uid, eliminating the need to separate retention and mouthfeel. This can be in gravity points with more liquid or grains and liquid with a screen or filter used to great advantage when brewing dried malt extract. later on. lighter, lower alcohol beer that may Cold steeping specialty grains can If you simply steeped the grains, typically be lacking in body and qual- be accomplished in a variety of ways you will need to separate the grains ity of foam. When brewing stronger depending on the time and equipment from the water with a fine screen or beers, cold-steeping specialty grains you have available. The grains can be filter (layered cheesecloth, coffee fil- can extract more malt flavor from simply steeped in cold water, steeped ter, etc.) before adding the liquid to those specialty grains without extract- in cold water with agitation, or in a the rest of the wort in your brewing ing sugars that are characteristically virtual vorlauf by repeatedly recircu- process. If you chose to recirculate more complex and less fermentable. lating cold water through the grains. using the virtual vorlauf method, the This can be used to your advantage if Each method has its advantages and liquid should be fairly clear as is and you desire a beer with a drier finish disadvantages, but each still requires likely won’t need additional filtration. yet full flavor by using more ferment- a bit of advanced planning and basic The liquid portion of the specialty able sugars from adjuncts or pale malt brewing or kitchen equipment. grain steep can be added to your brew- mashed at cooler temperatures. This Simply cold steeping specialty ing process at any time, from wort can provide big flavors with a clean grains can be accomplished by crush- collection to packaging, depending finish for dark lagers or black IPAs. ing the grains as you would for a typi- upon the flavor and aroma impact you Another point of consideration for cal mash and then steeping them at a wish to have on the finished beer. If frugal brewers who like to brew all malt ratio of 2 quarts (~2 L) water to 1 pound the steep solution is added after the strong ales is that since cold steeping (0.45 kg) grain for 8 to 24 hours at cold wort has been chilled, you run a risk of specialty grains primarily pulls the (38 °F or 3 °C) to room (75 °F or 23.8 °C) contamination by wild yeast or other color, flavor and FAN (free-amino temperature. At this water to grain microbes unless the cold-steeped so- nitrogen) from the grains, much of ratio, dark roasted grains will typi- lution is pasteurized by heating it to the convertible starch remains in the cally acidify most tap water to near pH at least 145 °F (63 °C) for 30 minutes or grain. Therefore, cold steeped grains 6 that will naturally limit tannin ex- 160 °F (71 °C) for several seconds. This can be added to a conventional mash traction. If your tap water has an un- can be worth the extra effort, particu- to yield sugars contributing toward usually high pH and is highly buffered larly if you wish to experiment with original gravity of another wort. The by carbonates (hardness), it may be how the steeped solution will affect “recycled” specialty grains from a cold beneficial to acidify the grain/water beer flavor and aroma when added steep process would not contribute mixture pH with lactic acid, a drop at a post-fermentation. Perhaps the sim- much color or flavor, but would still time and stirred, to get the mixture to plest option is to add the solution near boost original gravity of the wort. near pH 6. A mixture with a pH greater the end of the wort boil where it will If dark beers are part of your rep- than 6 will lead to tannin extraction experience a temperature over 160 °F ertoire, or if you shy away from dark and defeat the purpose of cold steep- (71 °C) to sanitize it prior to fermenta- beers because they are not as smooth ing the grains to diminish astringency. tion without driving off an appreciable as you would like, try cold steeping. With a little extra effort, you can amount of dark roast aromas. The po- With a preparation and experimen- speed up the process by following the tential for experimentation is exten- tation, cold steeping dark grains may same procedure as mentioned earlier sive as to when the specialty grain make your transition to “The Dark for regular cold steeping, except to cold-steep solution can be added in Side” a little bit smoother.

y summer crush began in the sters and harvests. Also, mills have a reasonable level. For homebrewers, warmest months of 2017, different corrugation on their rollers, great efficiency is more of a bragging shortly after quitting my cor- different roller speeds, and different right and a demonstration of under- Mporate job to work full-time roller differential (each roller operat- standing more than a cost saver. for MoreBeer! I know, most love sto- ing at slightly different speeds to ob- Knowing the difference between a ries don’t start with a change of oc- tain more sheer). coarse and a fine crush not only helps cupation. Then again, this isn’t a love That’s the thing, there is no magic with efficiency and preventing a stuck story, unless of course you count the number when it comes to gap set- mash, it also helps with consistency. love to learn more about brewing. tings, and that’s why we are told to And in brewing, consistency is king! Before signing on full-time, I had “mind the gap” and not “set it and There are a lot of steps down the line been working weekends at my lo- forget it.” that need to be understood to become cal homebrew shop and a frequently consistent as well, but it all starts asked question was, “What is the WHY THE CRUSH with your first crush (pun intended). ideal gap setting for my grain mill?” IS IMPORTANT But let’s get back to our story, shall On the surface it seems to be an easy, When you purchase pre-ground we? I was now working full- time in straightforward question with a sim- malt from most homebrew shops the industry, doing what I loved, and ple answer. it’s a coarse crush. This is the saf- one of the projects I was involved in There is a good starting range for est crush that will work on most any had me learning more about malts in most homebrew mills, but it’s not homebrewing system, but it’s not general. We were working with Vi- one-size-fits-all. The ideal gap set- the best for efficiency. A lot of pub- king Malts to develop a new base malt ting to produce a “fine” crush on my lished homebrewing recipes take this specifically geared towards the North mill might not work at all for your into account on their grain bills. On a American market. This is when I first system and process. Your system homebrewing scale, throwing a pound learned how to use grain sieves to ex- might require more of a “coarse” or two (0.45–0.9 kg) of extra malt into amine particle sizes on a crush and crush to work efficiently. Not to your batch really doesn’t cost much, what all the attributes on a malt anal- mention that grain is an agricultural but on a commercial scale it adds up ysis sheet (also called a COA or Certif- product and varies in kernel sizes and over time. Pro brewers need high ef- icate Of Analysis) meant. If you have friability levels from different malt- ficiency to keep the cost per batch at never taken a look at one of these Photos by Vito Delucchi Vito by Photos Malt analysis sheets, also called Certificates of Analysis (COAs), should be available from every maltster and contain a lot of useful information about the malt you are using. In terms of the gap settings when crushing, friability and lot assortment are both critical.

16 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine – Malt © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved sheets, I would recommend doing so. trays, the percent of kernels in each Maltings, a local northern California It might not be as sexy as a hop spec tray is measured, and the percent that maltster located in Alameda, sent out sheet but you’ll find a lot of important are caught by the top two screens are a marketing email saying they are information on them. added to make up the lot assortment now offering different milling specs Since this article is focused on percent. The smallest grains that fell on their pre-milled sacks of grain. My grain mill gap settings, we will pri- through all of the screens and made eyes lit up with beer geek love when I marily be discussing two of the specs it to the pan are often referred to as saw that. I had worked with the team listed on these sheets: Friability and “thrus.” The thrus are very small at Admiral in the past with my home- lot assortment. kernels that can be almost unmill- brew club and thought who better to Friability is a measure of how well able. Maltsters also classify the ker- talk with about the physical attributes 5 the kernels modified from barley nels caught in the ⁄64-inch screen of malt than a maltster. Head Maltster (which is not friable, or easy to break differently. For instance, Briess re- Curtis Davenport was kind enough to up) to malt (which is very friable). fers to these malts as “thins,” while answer my questions and walk me Low friability indicates that either the larger malts that were caught through their entire floor malting and parts of the kernels didn’t grow well in one of the two larger screen sizes testing processes step-by-step. or some complete seeds didn’t grow are referred to as “plump.” It is dif- Having talked with a malting ex- at all in the malt. Less friable malt ficult to properly mill the thins with- pert, I confirmed friability and kernel will not give up its extract as easily as out crushing the plump portion when size assortment should have some it is trapped in the unmodified parts using just the single crush of a two- impact on my crush research. But how by proteins and beta-glucans. roller mill. much, and could I detect it by running Assortment refers to kernel size. It My original idea for this article sieve tests? So, I identified my ques- is sometimes described in other terms was to crush several base malts at tion, it was now time to experiment. depending on the maltster, such as different specs. Then sieve test and “plump” or “sieving.” The higher the perform a Congress Mash as well, re- ON TO THE EXPERIMENTS percentage, the larger the kernel size. porting the results of both tests. Af- I selected four different base malts – Assortment is determined by per- ter talking with a friend who has been Viking Xtra Pale, Rahr 2-Row, Briess forming sieve tests where four trays doing this a lot longer than I have, he 2-Row, and Admiral Gallagher’s Best. are stacked on top of each other with talked me into just focusing on the I then used a 2-roller homebrew mill diminishing screen sizes — the top physical attributes of malts for this and crushed the malts using four dif- 7 with a ⁄64-inch screen bottom, the article. So we will save diastatic power ferent gap settings. The gap settings 6 next with a ⁄64-inch screen, the third and extract for another article. were 1.25 mm, 1.0 mm, 0.75 mm 5 with a ⁄64-inch screen, and a solid Around the same time I start- and 0.50 mm. I used a feeler gauge tray at the bottom. After shaking the ed working on this article, Admiral to verify these settings in between

17 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine – Malt © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved each milling. I then performed a grain sieve test on the different malts and crushes, recording the results. The method for performing a sieve test is pretty quick and straightforward. But let me tell you, doing 16 of them does take some time. You place three small rubber balls on each of the US standard test sieves #14, #30, and #60 and then place the bottom pan under the #60 test sieve. They must be stacked in the proper order with the widest screen being on top (#14) and the finest (#60) on the bottom before the pan. The grain sample being measured is then placed into the top sieve and the lid is put on prior to performing the test process. I used 100 grams of each crushed malt to keep the math easy, but you can use up to 130 grams for this test with the US standard test sieves. The sample should be a good representa- tion of the crush and include husks, kernels, and powder. When performing the test, you Lot assortment tests are performed by maltsters placing the grains on top of a stack of four trays need a smooth, flat surface, as you with diminishing screen sizes. After shaking the trays, the percent of kernels that do not fall 6 will be sliding the test sieves back and through the ⁄64-inch screen make up the lot assortment percent and are considered “plump.” forth for several minutes. The sieves need to travel 18 inches (46 cm) in one direction and then the other, taking 0.5 seconds each way for a total cycle time of one second. Every 15 seconds you tap the sieves and pat downward on the working surface. This cycle is maintained for three minutes total. You then empty each individual sieve, being sure to brush them out com- pletely, then weigh and record the results. Calculate the percentage for each sieve by dividing each fraction by the sum of all fractions weights and then multiply by 100.

Example:

#14 + #30 + #60 + Pan = Sum

Then:

#14 / Sum x 100 = percentage

This example equation will give you the percentage malt that was left on top of the #14 sieve. Repeat the equation for screens 30, 60, and the A visual of the various crushes performed during my experiment crushing base malts from pan. Since we are using 100 grams Viking, Rahr, Briess, and Admiral at four different mill gaps. of sample material, the percentages

18 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine – Malt © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved will be very close to their original extra fine crush and achieve really itoring this step in your process, over fractions. high efficiency. time you will develop an eye for it. Having known the friability and As for the original question of Milling your own grain not only al- lot assortment (Figure A, below) of “What is the ideal gap setting for my lows you to use the freshest possible these malts prior to this test, I origi- grain mill?” let’s assume we are talk- ingredients, it allows you to dial in nally suspected there would have ing most 2-roller homebrew mills your crush for maximum efficiency. been a greater variance. To my sur- with a 1.25-inch (3.2-cm) diameter Plus, the smell of freshly crushed prise, the greatest gap (pun intended) roller and you are also using a mash malted barley is pretty awesome. in percentages was 7%. Still, that’s tun with a decent false bottom. I Just remember that gap settings almost enough of a difference to take would start with a little over 1.0 mm are not universal, so the crush should you from a “standard” to a “fine” and go from there. If you don’t have be monitored every milling to en- crush (Figure F, below) with the same feeler gauges you can use a credit card sure the barley you’re working with gap setting by simply switching base (normally 0.76 mm) to help measure is being properly crushed. Barley is malts. You can see why brewers are it (or run down to the local auto parts an agricultural product and friability told to “mind the gap.” store and buy a set for a few bucks). and kernel size assortment vary from But it’s not just an aphorism for Ideally, you want to find a highly ef- maltster-to-maltster and even har- a gap setting, it’s about understand- ficient but not troublesome (meaning vest-to-harvest. ing and checking with each batch you it won’t cause a stuck mash) crush Sieve tests can be performed at brew. I was also surprised at the per- that works for your brewing system. home and will help you understand centages of fine particles that made It’s not necessarily going to be solely and dial in an ideal crush for your sys- it into the pan based on the milling based on a gap setting either, as the tem. These sieves can be found on- spec sheet (Figure F). But looking same malt can change from year-to- line for a moderate investment. But at the different crushes, I would use year, like Admiral’s Head Maltster by simply paying attention to your some of the ones bordering on the low Curtis Davenport mentioned. Similar crush and monitoring it, each batch fine territory. It’s really dependent on to how we must adjust hop additions will help you develop an eye for it over your system though. A friend of mine based on alpha acid%, we also need to time. A consistent crush equals con- who is opening a brewery in Hawaii is adjust gap setting based on how the sistent batches, and brewing consis- putting in a mash filter system. With crush comes out of the mill if we want tency is a sign of a good brewer. that type of system you would use an consistency. As long as you are mon- Figure A: Unmilled Malts Figure B: 1.25 MM Grind Malt Tested Friability Lot Assortment* 1.25 MM Gap Setting #14 #30 #60 Pan Viking - Xtra Pale 92 97 Viking - Xtra Pale 59% 24% 8% 9% Rahr - 2-Row 92 98 Rahr - 2-Row 60% 23% 9% 8% Briess - 2-Row 89 92 Briess - 2-Row 61% 23% 8% 8% Admiral - Gallagher’s Admiral - Gallagher’s 75 99 56% 26% 9% 9% Best Best 7 6 * This represents the percent of grain caught in the ⁄64 + ⁄64 sieve screen. Figure C: 1.00 MM Grind Figure D: 0.75 MM Grind 1.00 MM Gap Setting #14 #30 #60 Pan 0.75 MM Gap Setting #14 #30 #60 Pan Viking - Xtra Pale 40% 34% 11% 15% Viking - Xtra Pale 23% 39% 19% 19% Rahr - 2-Row 35% 32% 16% 17% Rahr - 2-Row 27% 41% 16% 16% Briess - 2-Row 40% 35% 13% 12% Briess - 2-Row 25% 43% 17% 15% Admiral - Gallagher’s Admiral - Gallagher’s 41% 36% 11% 12% 25% 42% 17% 16% Best Best

Figure E: 0.50 MM Grind Figure F (Admiral milling specs) 0.50 MM Gap Setting #14 #30 #60 Pan Sieve # #14 #30 #60 Pan Viking - Xtra Pale 15% 35% 24% 26% Coarse 70 - 85% 10 - 20% 10% 5% Rahr - 2-Row 13% 37% 24% 26% Standard 45 - 55% 25 - 50% 10% 7% Briess - 2-Row 12% 40% 24% 24% Fine 30 - 35% 40 - 60% 5 -15% 10% Admiral - Gallagher’s 19% 36% 22% 23% Extra Fine 10 - 20% 20 - 40% 40 - 50% 10 - 20% Best

I have different types of grain stored in clear plastic containers that I keep on a shelf in my garage where I brew. The containers are not in direct sunlight, but sun does come into the garage through windows. The garage temperature ranges from about 39-104 °F (4-40 °C) depending on the season. Am Q I OK storing grains in this kind of environment, or is there something else that you would recommend? The most important thing to malt silos located outdoors. Although closed by rolling the open end. Your prevent when storing malt is high-volume breweries do not store plastic storage totes should be a suit- an increase in the moisture malt for a very long time period due to able solution to prevent pest prob- A content. When malt is kilned, their high production, many smaller lems. the moisture content is normally re- breweries store grain for months in The containers do not prevent duced to about 5%. Since most parts of outdoor silos while they slowly con- light from entering. I have not read, the world are not nearly this dry, it is sume their inventory. Empirically, heard or had any first-hand experi- important to prevent moisture pick- one could argue that storage temper- ences to lead me to believe that light up over time. The best way to accom- ature is probably not a major concern presents problems for malt storage. plish this important goal is by storing in most areas, otherwise storage con- But then again, most breweries store your malt in airtight containers. It ditions would probably be different malt in silos and/or bags and these sounds like you are doing that. than the use of outdoor silos. Even containers do not allow light to enter. Storage temperature is a subject when malt is stored in bags, the bags To be on the safe side, you may want that is not as absolute. High temper- are usually stored in closed ware- to consider placing your containers ature accelerates the effects of aging houses that become very warm in the in a box. But if you are not noticing on all ingredients, but quantifying summer. changes with the aroma and flavor this with malt storage is not some- Historically, pests have been a of your malt over time in the beers thing found in the literature. In fact, real problem for grain storage facili- you brew with stored malt, you have none of my brewing textbooks make ties. Pests include birds, rodents and no real issues to associate with malt any mention of malt storage temper- insects. All of these creatures could storage and therefore do not have ature. cause problems in a garage environ- a problem to solve. In other words, The fact of the matter is that ment, especially if malt is stored don’t worry! breweries and maltsters store malt in in bags that have been opened and

I have been considering going to all-grain brewing. I have heard that it is sometimes better to buy malt in 50-pound increments to save money on grain. However, I do not plan to brew with more than 10 pounds at a time. How should I store the extra crushed grains? Can crushed grains be stored in the Q freezer, or should I just leave the grain in its paper sack at room temperature?

The key to storing grain is keep- quantities, such as five- or 10-pound year — although like anything else it ing it dry. Whenever crushed lots, and bag it in sealable plastic will lose its fresh flavor the longer you grain is left to sit around, it be- bags. You can use a fancy vacuum keep it. Because malt does contain a A gins to take up moisture from packer, but large freezer bags will do small amount of oil, it can go rancid the air. Most malts have a moisture the trick, too. You also can store malt if left unused for too long. Rancidity content between 4 percent and 6 per- in a sealable container like one used is more likely to occur if the malt is cent, and there are very few climates for flour. stored in a very hot environment. in the world that do not cause malt to Some malts are even sold in woven I would not recommend storing absorb water over time. My rule with nylon bags that have plastic liners. malt in the freezer, mainly because crushed malt is to use it as soon as These bags work pretty well for ex- it is not necessary. The other prob- possible, which means don’t mill your tended storage if you roll up the open lem with freezers is their amazing malt until brew day. This, of course, part of the bag and secure it to reseal ability to make things taste like they requires a mill. the bag. were stored in a freezer! I can’t imag- If you buy pre-crushed grain and Malt can be stored at room tem- ine a beer that ended up tasting like want to store it for some time, you perature for extended periods with- a freezer, but I would guess that it have a few options. One option is to out harm. As long as it stays dry and wouldn’t be all that great. measure the grain into convenient free of bugs, malt will keep for about a

efore I became a homebrewer back in 1992, I’d been involved in agriculture for a couple of de- B cades. I began my journey in agriculture by working on a dairy farm in Wisconsin (which included an intro- duction to beer). But, it was not until I began learning how to make beer that I actually understood what malt and hops were and how they were used in making my favorite fermented beverage. I knew that barley was the basis for making malt and knew how barley was grown, but knew little of the mysterious process of turning barley into malt and malt into beer. Being trained as a scientist, I dove into the technical aspects of transforming barley into malt and learned of the Photos by Jon Stika by Photos complex bio-chemical progression Turn over the grain twice daily to untangle the rootlets (acrospires) during germination. that occurs as barley sprouts. I also began to understand how the malting own malt is to be able to source in- one of these states, you may be able process is managed to produce high- gredients locally, rather than having to track down a grower and offer them quality malt. It was then that I asked them made and shipped in from afar. some homebrewed beer or cash for myself, “Why couldn’t I make malt at So whether you want to take more barley. Your local county extension home?” pride in the beer you brew, save a agent or conservation district may be After realizing that I already had few bucks, or just reduce your carbon able to help you locate farmers that most of the equipment I would need footprint, making your own malt can grow barley or wheat in your area (the to make malt, I began my hands-on bring more fulfillment to your efforts USDA and American Malting Barley learning by making my first batch as a homebrewer. Association also publish malting bar- of barley malt in 1999. This learning ley acreage statistics). process naturally included a few mis- ACQUIRING BARLEY Regardless of where you live in the takes along the way, but I eventually OR WHEAT world, it is worth exploring the possi- became proficient at making barley The first step in making barley or bility of sourcing locally-grown bar- and wheat malt and have been doing wheat malt is securing the grain in ley or wheat. If finding a local grower so ever since. its natural condition that has not isn’t feasible, there are retail seed or been processed in any way that would feed dealers that may be able to sup- BENEFITS OF HOME MALTING affect the ability of the kernels to ply you with what you need. A third There are a number of reasons why sprout. Where I live in western North option for those with space for a gar- you might wish to invest the time and Dakota, there are thousands of acres den or field is to grow your own grain effort in making your own malt. For of barley and wheat grown every (see section at end of this story). me, it is a combination of the personal year. Whenever I need some of ei- If you are unable to find a local satisfaction of taking my homebrew- ther grain, I simply talk to some of my grower, then a local farm supply, live- ing hobby to the next level by making farmer friends and trade them a few stock feed, or agricultural seed sup- the main ingredient myself, as well bottles of homebrewed beer for the plier may be able to provide you with a as the lower cash cost of homemade grain that I wish to make into malt. bag of barley for roughly half the price malt vs. commercial malt. Since I can These farmers are particularly ex- of a similar amount of malt. Make sure get locally-grown barley or wheat cited to later get some beer back that that the barley or wheat seed is whole by bartering or purchasing it for the is made from their own grain. In the (not milled, flaked, or otherwise pro- cash-grain price at a small fraction United States, Idaho, Montana, and cessed) and is not treated with fun- of the price of malt, I can make malt North Dakota are the top three barley gicide (as is sometimes the case with very inexpensively. This is especially producers. Colorado, Wyoming, Min- grain destined for planting as seed) true when you factor in the cost of nesota, Washington, Pennsylvania, unless you plan to plant the grain to shipping if the malt isn’t purchased Oregon, and Arizona also grow appre- grow your own crop. If you live in a locally. Another reason to make your ciable amounts of barley. If you live in big city that does not have any local

21 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine – Malt © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved farm suppliers, an organic or natural sprouting the grain, and that amount tinue sprouting, the grain must be foods retailer may be able to supply will also fill all the racks of my food kept cool and moist and turned twice you with some whole barley or wheat dehydrator that I use for the drying daily prevent the sprouts from get- (sometimes referred to as “berries”) process. The method and equipment ting too warm as that can increase the that are still in their natural state. that you use for controlling air move- potential for mold to develop. And, of course, there is always the ment and temperature during the After the water has been drained Internet and online retailers to turn drying process is typically the limit- away from the now sprouting grain to, however shipping costs may make ing factor of the amount of grain you for the second time, I immediately 3 this less appealing. Johnny’s Selected will be able to malt at a time. I have spread the moist grain about ⁄4-inch Seeds of Winslow, Maine, sells small found that a food dehydrator is the (2-cm) deep on shallow roasting pans quantities of spring wheat and spring best way to do this at home. or baking sheets and then loosely barley varieties suitable for malting. The first step of malting grain (in cover the pans with plastic food wrap this case, barley) is to allow the seed to help hold in moisture. When the MAKING BARLEY OR to soak up enough water to come to grain needs to be turned, the pan can WHEAT MALT life and begin to grow. In order for be uncovered, the grain disentan- Malt is simply any grain that has been barley seeds to begin to sprout, they gled and sifted between your fingers, sprouted to the point where enzymes must first absorb a considerable moistened by misting or sprinkling become available within the seed to amount of water — the goal is for the water on it, and the pan of grain cov- prepare to convert stored starch into seeds to be about 45–50% moisture. ered with plastic wrap again to con- sugar, and kilned to stop germination The seeds need to be steeped in cool tinue sprouting. and preserve enzymes. When that (approximately 50 °F/ 10 °C), hard (or The tiny white rootlets (acro- kernel of grain is planted in the soil, at least not softened) water for about spires) will emerge from the embryo the sugars produced from the stored eight hours, then drained and allowed end of the seed and the shoot will grow starch are used to feed the growing to rest for eight to ten hours in a cool starting from that same end of each plant until it can conduct photosyn- (50–70 °F/10–21 °C) place, and then grain. It’s important to keep turn- thesis. During malting, the growth steeped in water again for another ing over the grain twice daily during process of the sprouting seed is halted eight hours. Since the seeds you are germination to untangle the rootlets. by drying to preserve the starch and sprouting are little living embryos, The shoot of barley will grow under enzymes so we can store the resulting they also should not be deprived of the husk of the seed while the roots malt until we are ready to re-activate oxygen for very long. Oxygenating will grow out away from the seed. In the enzymes in a warm water mash to the water that the grain is steeped in order to track the growth of the shoot gelatinize the malts’ starches, then is beneficial to the sprouting grain, of barley, you will need to carefully convert the starch to sugar to produce so splashing the cold water into the cut the husk open on sample kernels sweet wort. bucket of grain will help dissolve and observe how long the shoot is There are three basic steps to some oxygen into the water. If possi- relative to the kernel itself. The bar- making malt: Steeping, germination, ble, it is even better to bubble air into ley or wheat is fully “modified” when and drying (kilning). Making malt at the water during the steeping process the shoot is very nearly the full length home only requires small increments with an aquarium pump and tubing of the kernel of grain. Proper modi- of time spread out over several days, suited for that purpose. fication will usually take 3–5 days and very little specialized equipment. After the second steeping period, from the time that the grain was re- I make malt 9 lbs. (4 kg) at a time be- the water is again drained away and moved from the final steeping water cause that’s how much grain fits on the grain spread out in shallow pans and spread on the pans. The “smear two big roasting pans that I use for or other flat surface. In order to con- test” is a simple way to determine

3 After the water has been drained away from the now sprouting grain for the second time, I immediately spread the moist grain about ⁄4-inch (2-cm) deep on shallow roasting pans or baking sheets and then loosely cover the pans with plastic food wrap to help hold in moisture.

22 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine – Malt © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved would for pale malt. Pilsner malt dif- fers from pale malt in that the malt is kilned for three hours at 158–176 °F (70–80 °C) to produce a malt that is lighter in color and flavor than pale malt. Munich malt is kilned at 183 °F (84 °C) for three hours, Aromatic malt is kilned at 195 °F (90.5 °C) for three hours. A darker non-caramelized specialty malt, such as chocolate malt, can be made by taking kiln-dried malt and roasting it on pans in the oven at 400 °F (204 °C) for 40 to 50 minutes. Roast- ing malt above a temperature of 300 °F (149 °C) should be done with care and frequent monitoring. At higher temperatures, the malt can change from toasted to burned in minutes. By ex- perimenting with different time and Once fully modified, I dry my malt in a food dehydrator at 100–125 °F (38– 52 °C) for 10 hours, temperature profiles, you can create then raise the temperature to 140–160 °F (60–71 °C) for eight hours. your own “house” dark specialty malt if modification is complete. To per- in the finished malt and resulting that may be a bit lighter or darker than form the smear test, simply start at beer. standard chocolate malt. the end of the kernel where the roots Curing (a part of the kiln cycle — Caramelized specialty malts are are protruding and attempt to smear where the term “kilning” refers to all made by converting starch to sugar (as the kernel between your thumb and of the heating steps that happen on would typically be done in a standard index finger. Any unmodified part of the malt kiln) can be accomplished mash) with the kernels intact instead the kernel will not be soft enough to in a standard kitchen oven. I spread of crushed. There are a couple ap- 1 smear into a starchy paste and indi- my dried malt about a ⁄2-inch (1.3 proaches for home maltsters to make cate that the grain should be allowed cm) deep on baking sheets and place caramelized malts. The first method to sprout for a bit more time. them in a 185 °F (85 °C) oven for six involves placing raw, undried malt Once the malt has shoots that are hours. After the malt has been kilned in a dish with a well-fitting lid and as long as, or longer than, the ker- it should be allowed to cool to room holding it at a temperature between nel and/or passes the smear test, it temperature and then stored in a cool 140–160 °F (60–71 °C) for two hours to needs to be carefully dried to stop the (room temperature or cooler), dry allow the enzymes to convert starch sprouting process and preserve the place in a sealed container that pre- to sugar. The “stewed” malt is then starch and enzymes at their best. vents the malt from absorbing mois- spread out on an open cake pan or To make standard pale malt, ture from the air and excluding pests. baking sheet and toasted at 250 °F (121 “green” (still moist) fully modified °C) until it is browned to the color de- sprouts must be dried with care at MAKING SPECIALTY MALT sired. The second method of making temperatures less than 125 °F (52 °C) Once you master making standard caramelized malt is to mix uncrushed until the raw malt has dried down to pale malt you may want to explore standard pale malt (homemade or 10% moisture or less (at which point the world of specialty malts. Many purchased) at a rate of one quart (1 L) the malt will be hard and crunchy). I specialty malts are “special” because water to one pound (0.45 kg) malt and dry my malt in a food dehydrator at they are kilned at different tempera- follow the same procedure described 100–125 °F (38– 52 °C) for 10 hours, tures and lengths of time than stan- above. then raise the temperature to 140– dard pale malt, roasted in a heated The longer the malt is kilned, the 160 °F (60–71 °C) for eight hours. This drum to achieve darker colors and darker and more caramelized the staged drying process preserves the stronger flavors, or they are mashed sugars will become. Cara-Pils, Cara- enzymes while driving off the grassy to convert starch to sugar with the Vienne, Cara-Munich, Special-B, flavors and excess moisture from the kernels intact and then roasted to and crystal malt are, from lightest to malt. At this point I rub the malt over form caramel or “crystal” malt. darkest, the various types of caramel- a sieve (a wire mesh strainer works The lighter non-caramelized spe- ized malts typically used by brewers. well) to remove the dried rootlets. cialty malts can be made by taking The flavor of these caramelized malts This cleaned and dried malt now re- kiln-dried malt and kilning them range from sweet to nutty as the malt quires a final toasting or “curing” to for a different amount of time and is toasted from lighter to darker in develop bready/toasty flavors desired at different temperatures than you color.

23 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine – Malt © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved SUMMARY ern Hemisphere. Most homebrewers slump over to around a 45 degree an- Whether you are interested in sim- use two-row varieties of barley malt. gle. To harvest a small garden plot, I ply making some of your own cara- Two-row malt has larger kernels and usually put on a pair of gloves (to pro- mel malt from commercial pale malt, a bit less “husky” flavor than six-row tect my hands from the stiff, sharp or feel the need to make a variety of malt. awns) and snap or clip the heads off of malts from grain you grew yourself, In my experience growing barley or the plants and drop them in a bucket. becoming a home maltster will give wheat in my garden, I usually harvest By collecting only the heads of grain, you a better understanding of what between 0.05–0.08 pounds (0.023– it makes it a bit easier to thresh the it takes to brew beer. I have a certain 0.036 kg) of wheat or barley grain per grain from them instead of dealing fascination with doing things in my square foot (0.1 m2) of area planted. with all of the straw if you cut down brewing process from scratch, the Therefore, if you’d like at least 10 the whole plant. way folks had to be able to do so in the pounds (4.5 kg) of barley or wheat to Once the heads containing the early history of brewing beer. Grow- malt, you would need to plant an area grain are harvested and dry, the grain ing my own grain and making my own between 125– 200 square feet (11.6– needs to be separated from the head. malt gives me a connection with the 18.5 m2) in size. You will need at least The simplest way I have found to ac- brewers of old and a satisfaction that 0.002 pounds (0.9 grams) of seed per complish the threshing process is to I did it all myself from the ground up. square foot (0.1 m2) of area planted. spread the heads on a clean concrete Therefore, a 200-square-foot (18.5- floor or on a tarp or canvas on a hard GROWING AND HARVESTING m2) plot would require a minimum surface and walk on them while wear- BARLEY OR WHEAT of 0.4 pounds (0.18 kg) of seed. This ing sturdy shoes or boots. After the Growing your own barley or wheat to planting rate is based on placing the individual kernels have been separat- use to make malt is no more difficult seed in rows approximately seven ed from the heads of grain the kernels than growing anything else in your inches (18 cm) apart and an inch (2.5 need to be winnowed from the chaff. garden. Since the majority of readily cm) deep to achieve a stand of 30 I have winnowed grain in a cou- available malting barley varieties are plants per square foot (0.1 m2). If you ple different ways. One method is to sown in the spring, I suggest that is simply broadcast (or broadly scatter) take the threshed grain/chaff mixture the best way to go if you want to grow the seed, you should double the seed placed in a bucket and stand on some your own for most of North America. rate to 0.004 pounds (1.8 grams) of stairs or a step ladder outdoors on a While malt could be made from seed per square foot (0.1 m2) planted, breezy day and pour the contents of practically any variety of barley, there as some of the seed will not germinate the bucket slowly so the grain falls are several varieties that have been or it will be eaten by wildlife. If broad- onto a tarp or sheet and the chaff bred for making quality brewing malt. casting seeds, follow up by lightly blows away (or at least to the far end According to the American Malting raking the area to allow dirt to cover of the tarp or sheet). If the breeze is Barley Association, major malting va- the seeds. This will help protect the sufficient, you should have a con- rieties of barley grown in the US and seeds from wildlife and from blowing centrated pile of grain closest to the Canada include six-row types of; Cel- away in strong winds. stairs or ladder that you can collect as ebration, Innovation, Lacey, Legacy, If you plant your barley or wheat in your cleaned grain. If you do not have Quest, Thoroughbred, and Tradition. rows it will be easier to control weeds a place outdoors to perform the win- Two-row types recommended are that may grow along with your grain. nowing operation you can slowly pour AAC Synergy, ABI Voyager, AC Met- If you plant an adequate amount of the grain/chaff mixture in front of a calfe, CDC Copeland, Charles, Con- seed as soon as the soil temperature fan and the chaff will hopefully blow lon, Conrad, Endeavor, Expedition, at a 2-inch (5-cm) depth is above 40 further away from the fan than the Explorer, Harrington, Hockett, Merit °F (4.4 °C) in the spring, the barley or grain, allowing you to collect the grain 57, Moravian 37, Moravian 69, ND wheat will usually grow faster than separately. This method can make Genesis, Newdale, Pinnacle, Propino, most weeds and keep them at bay. a significant mess, so it is best to do Scarlett, and Wintmalt. The designa- There are typically not many insect so on a hard floor where the mess is tion of six-row and two-row comes pests or diseases that will impact your easier to clean up afterward. from the habit of how the florets are barley or wheat crop except for birds Once you have your grain cleaned arranged on the pedicel (the head of that may also become interested in and dry, store it in a sealed contain- grain at the top of the stalk), creating harvesting your grain when it is ripe. er in a warm (77–86 °F/25–30 °C) dry the appearance of six-rows or two- Barley or wheat are typically ready place for a few weeks before placing rows of seeds in each head. Charles, for harvest about 90 days after plant- it in longer-term storage at 60–65°F Endeavor, Wintmalt, and Thorough- ing. Signals that they are ready to (15.5–18.3 °C) for a few more weeks bred are varieties of winter barley harvest includes when they no lon- to allow the kernels to go dormant. that are sown in the fall, then resume ger have any green color to them, the After this resting period, the barley growth in the spring. All other vari- kernels have become harder and less should sprout uniformly with very eties are sown in the spring and har- pliable due to the natural drying and few non-sprouting kernels to make vested that same fall in the North- dehydration, and the row of kernels the best quality malt.