ENFIA Interpreter

February 1, 2021 Vol. 3 ​ ​ ​ A Message from the station and Silver Lake Cabin. If any of you have interest in participating in President these activities please contact Carl or The Board wishes to thank all of you Karen. for staying with us while we navigate Stay safe and enjoy fresh air. these uncertain times. We are eager to get back to exploring the Eldorado “Bad weather always looks worse thru National Forest with you once we are a window” Tom Lehrer able to do so and hope the arrival of spring and a coherent vaccination Larry Moore President policy will allow us to do so. Meet Our USFS Liaison, While resuming our interpretive Kristi Schroeder activities and opening the Carson Pass by Board Member Keli Gwyn Information Station is our goal, your safety is our first priority. We at ENFIA are privileged to have had Kristi Schroeder serving as our With the Forest Service as our USFS liaison for the past twenty partner, we will be establishing safety years—and hopefully for many more to come. Her vast experience, wealth guidelines for resuming our activities. of knowledge, and ability to quickly pinpoint the core issues in a situation In the meantime, Carl Gwyn is are tremendous assets that serve us leading a group looking at offering well. Having worked with Kristi this activities along the Hwy 50 corridor past year, I’ve had the opportunity to and Karen Heine will be leading a see her on the job and to get a peek at Carson Pass group for managing the one of her off-duty interests during the excellent interpretive training what the US Forest Service does workshop she presented this past and how to interpret and explain December. Eager to find out more, I our methods, projects, and the asked Kristi three questions that give environmental issues to the public. us all a better understanding of what makes her so cool. Here are her 2. When did you join the Forest answers in her own words… Service, and what positions have you held? 1. How did you first become I am unusual for a Forest Service interested in our national employee in that my entire career forests? has been in one forest. I started out My family recreated on the working seasonally in Recreation Eldorado and other National in various areas; such as, Forests. When I was in college developed recreation, off highway several of my friends worked vehicle programs, volunteer summers for the Forest Service, so management, and conservation I checked into it and applied for education. I advanced into several jobs in Biology and Recreation Management and Recreation on various forests. eventually became the Visitor Recreation on the Eldorado NF Center Director in 2000. I started called me back first. My degree is working closely with ENFIA as in Conservational Biology and I the liaison at that point. In 2006, I was intending to become a moved into Public Affairs when Biologist. After several summers the Center was closed. I have working in Recreation, I was set to worked with volunteers throughout return the next season in Biology my entire career and with ENFIA when the for the last 20 years. I periodically take on details (special assignments) as a Recreation or Resource Officer in one of the districts and I also serve as a Public Information Officer on wildfire incidents.

Cleveland Fire happened, and they 3. What do you do for fun when did not hire a Biology crew that you’re not wearing your many year. I returned to Recreation and USFS hats? my supervisor moved on and I For 11 years I was heavily ended up in her job. The fast pace involved with the Boy Scouts of and complexity of the Recreation America as an Assistant program hooked me, and I never Scoutmaster and Advancement ended up working as a Biologist. Coordinator. I stayed with them My degree and background were for several years after my son aged still very useful for understanding and eagled out until they could find a replacement. My current is the highly abridged story of Monte Wolfe.

Greg got my attention and interest by sharing his stories and experiences deep in the wilderness and at the cabin. One of the things these rangers would do back in the day was to put ropes across the Mokelumne River to help the Tahoe to Yosemite hikers. Amazing! Sorry got off track there. Doing some research we determined that it was too late in the year, 2016, passion is rehabbing wildlife with to attempt this expedition. We Sierra Wildlife Rescue. I patiently waited for Summer 2017 to rehabilitate Raptors (hawks, owls, etc.) and serve as the Raptor Team arrive. Leader, as a member of their Education Team, as the Director of Summer arrived after a long snowy Avian Care, and as a Board winter, now we had to wait for roads Member. Keeps me busy and I to open, creeks flows to reduce, we love working with these majestic are not patient men but wait we must. birds. Mid August we were ready to head out, we packed enough gear for Summit City Canyon and approximately 4 days. It would be Monte Wolf’s Cabin about a 30 mile trip on a not well Adventure maintained trail and some nasty cross (part 1) country to boot. By Mark Sandperl Gear packed, we headed out starting First a little background. In 2016 I at the Evergreen Trail, near Upper became friends with a man, Greg, Blue Lake. The trail heads down to who among other things had been a the old town site of Summit City, then Wilderness Ranger in the mid to late continues on following Summit City 1970s. He told me about Monte Wolf’s cabin and his desire to return Creek, finally dumping into the there. Monte built said cabin in what Mokelumne River. The trail starts at is now the . 8200 feet and ends at 5400 feet, a lot Monte was a recluse, trapper and a of down on the way in, you know fishing guide, and he disappeared off what that means? A lot UP on the way the face of the earth sometime in the out. The trail was in pretty good shape early 1940s, the cabin remains. That and easy to follow until we passed by Telephone Gulch. Not only were there my boots off and crossed in the water. LOTS of downed trees, the trail was I guess we were following a “trail” just plain overgrown and/or just gone. there used to be one here. This was The rain of course complicated things, once part of the to we didn’t know where we were going Yosemite trail system. As long as we to camp. After about 8 miles we kept SC Creek to our right (westish), gross navigation was pretty easy but picking the route with the least obstacles became the goal. At times we were on trails and sometimes we were just winging it, often learning what lives between the 40 foot contour lines. Let me digress for a moment, our target, Monte’s cabin, found a little flat spot, just big enough was only a tad over 1.9 miles away for our two tents, then the sun came from our campsite, crow miles that is. out and there would be no more rain. Our round trip journey today, sadly, Meals cooked, stories told and called would be quite a bit more than 3.8 home, yep we had cell service, Mt miles. Reba was in the line of sight from where the camp was set up. Just a little side note, while heading down the canyon we were counting and taking the location of downed trees for an upcoming trail maintenance expedition. We got into the 20s before it started to rain and we gave up.

After a nice warm night, we awoke to a brisk morning that would soon change into heat but we were not there yet. We had coffee and breakfast and packed our day packs. We planned to head deeper into the We needed to leave the “trail” all bowels of the Mokelumne together and start to head north/east Wilderness. The first major obstacle cross country towards the cabin. We was crossing Summit City Creek. My chose an area that looked promising. sure footed friend was able to rock We had talked to a couple of people hop across, I on the other hand took about this, they all concurred this would be the most perilous point of different track than we were on the the journey. Our trek now took us way down, always good to have loops over exposed granite. You know what in your track logs. One more stop likes to live in the granite? before we got back to camp, we saw Rattlesnakes. And remember the heat that there is a spring listed on the I mentioned earlier? Hot exposed map, nothing like nice cold spring granite, with snakes, great! So now water to top off our water supply. We we were scrambling over boulders, got to the spring and the little stream climbing rock cliffs all the while that is running off of it. Greg stepped trying to avoid snakes. This part of over the stream while I was getting the journey was brutal, and I told my water bottles out to fill up. Wait myself I would NEVER do this again. what is that sound, barely audible We would climb up about 400 feet in over the bubbling stream sound? Yes just over two tenths of a mile when there was rattlesnake number 2, we called it quits. We were hot, within striking distance and not running low on water and we still had behaving like a good rattlesnake. This to climb back out of the Mokelumne guy (or gal) was very happy with its River Canyon to our campsite. We spot by the stream and not happy with would ultimately only see one us. Very slowly I stepped away, then rattlesnake on this part of the trip and crossed the stream, we did not really it did what rattlesnakes are supposed need this water, it just would have to do, it scurried under a rock when it been a treat. saw us. Remember that crow thing? We were only 2053 feet from the cabin, we had not chosen our route wisely.

First order of business, after reversing down the cliffs, was to not fall down, not to get bitten by a rattlesnake, then find some shade and We got back to camp, all was ok, no water. Summit City Creek provided critters attacked in our absence. It was shade, nice cold water, and a good still warm so we were able to refresh spot to eat our lunches. After resting ourselves in the creek and lament our for maybe an hour or so it was time to failure. We lounged around, ate our head back to our campsite. Feeling a dinner and went to bed early. little despondent about our failed mission, we started the drudge back Day 3 we packed up, made our UP the hill. We were now on a campsite look unused, and headed back to the trailhead. A friend of ours below or copy and paste into your thought it would be a good day-hike browser of choice. to come down and meet us, then hike out with us. Fortunately we met up in https://goo.gl/photos/VASRBq42PSv an area where the trail was pretty qgX21A obvious. In other spots, we could have easily missed each other. We stopped How Carson Pass got its for lunch along the creek where the trail from 4th of July Lake meets Name Summit City/Evergreen Trail before By Frank Tortorich continuing UP the trail. From a Euro-American perspective, We made it back to the trailhead, Carson Pass has existed since although we did not complete our remnants of the goals, we felt pretty good, being a opened the trail to wagon travel in couple old guys hanging out in the 1848. Mokelumne Wilderness, for two From the Native American nights, three days for a total of 25 perspective, Carson Pass has existed miles and 5100 feet in elevation gain. as a travel, hunting and trade trail for If you want a true wilderness more than 10,000 years. 1 The Washoe ​ people did not have a ​ specific name for Carson Pass, but they did have a name for what is now called the Caples Lake area. The closest they have is lamuk da-ow, which references the route to Pine Grove.2 experience, go for Mokelumne! We ​ Carson Pass was not the only trade did not see or hear another person route the used as while in the canyon, except our friend those routes can be seen from the who came down to join us. 3 map ​ on the following page. ​ We headed back into the canyon in WASHOE PEOPLE OF THE the fall for another attempt at Monte’s CARSON PASS AREA cabin. Another failure? Success? Part The Washoe people are the original 2 in the next ENFIA newsletter will inhabitants to the Carson Pass area tell!

1 Native Americans living mainly on east side of the To see all the pictures from the Sierra. adventure you can click on the link 2 Darrel Cruz, Washoe Trible Heritage Office. 3 Map provided by Darrel Cruz. for at least 10,000 years. The and all within a Washoe are a Hokan speaking span of a decade, the Washo way of people distinct from the neighboring life changed forever. tribes. Washoe territory extended The Washoe persevered and from Honey Lake California to the continued to thrive in the local area. north, south to Sonora Pass Washoe still come to the Carson Pass California, and east from the Pine area for the same reasons they did Nut Range in Nevada to the west years ago.4 slope of the with Lake ​ Tahoe as the center of the Washoe world. Washoe territory has dramatic landscapes and ecological diversity from high alpine forests, lakes and rivers, meadow systems to pinyon juniper woodlands and semi-arid landscapes and in the eyes of the Washoe; “the most beautiful ​ country of all.” The Washoe ​ occupied the Carson Pass during the summer months, hunting and fishing and harvesting plants in the local area and moved to lower elevations during the harsh winter Map provided by Darrel Cruz months. It was a seasonal lifestyle moving with the changing seasons. THE FIRST WHITE MEN TO USE CARSON PASS Because the Washoe are situated In 1843-1844, John C. Fremont led between two geographic regions, his second mapping expedition west they are ideally suited to trade to the Oregon Territory. After they between the two regions, for finished their work in the Oregon example, obsidian, hides, seeds, salt, Territory, they turned south and acorns, and seashells were common traveled along the east side of the Cascade Mountains and continued exchange goods. along the east side of the Sierra With the sudden influx of hundreds Nevada. By this time, it was into of thousands of immigrants flocking to the gold and silver mines of 4 Ibid. December and January and they group during the night because of needed to find a way to cross the their fear of dying in the snow. Sierra to Sutter’s Fort for food and After a great struggle over 29 or 30 supplies. feet of snow, the group finally was During this journey Fremont able to cross over the 8,000-foot continued his scientific work of summit that we now call Carson mapping, plant, and animal Pass.11 ​ identification and naming features. Fremont led his starving and Fremont named a river, the Carson 5 bedraggled group down to the River after his friend . ​ Kit ​ American River, on to Sacramento, Carson was hired by Fremont on this 6 arriving at Sutter’s Fort and safety on trip as a hunter and Indian fighter ,​ ​ March 6, 1844. but not his guide as is commonly stated. Those duties were assigned to During all this difficult time Fremont Thomas “Broken Hand” Fitzpatrick.7 and his cartographer Charles Preuss ​ continued their scientific work. While in their search to find a way However, Fremont did not name the through the snow and over the 12 pass for his friend Kit Carson. ​ In mountains, they engaged several ​ fact neither man named the pass at all. Indians seeking information.8 ​ On the Preuss maps published in Fremont engaged one of the men, a 1848, there is no indication of a young Indian they called Mélo, to be pass.13 ​ their guide.9 ​ By the first of February, the snow was getting so deep that they resorted to beating down the snow with mallets to form a firm trail for the horses.10 ​ The Indians told them where the pass was, but they then left the Fremont

Photograph from the author’s personal collection

5 Peter Browning, Place Names of the Sierra Nevada. ​ The first appearance of the name Wilderness press, Berkeley CA. 1991, 32. 6 Donald Jackson and Mary Lee Spencer, THE “Carson Pass” is on the 1857 map by ​ EXPEDITIONS OF John Charles Fremont, Volume 1 George H. Goddard’s Britton & Ray’s Travels from 1838 to 1844. University of Illinois ​ 14 ​ Map of the State of California. ​ Now, Press. Urbana, Chicago, and London 1970. 382 & ​ ​ 387. 7 Ibid. 383 & 389. 8 Ibid. 624. 9 Ibid. 625. 11 Ibid. 5 10 Phil Pasquini, The Story Behind The Kit Carson Tree 12 Pasquini, 5. ​ Blaze Marker, Flypaper Press, Novato, California 13 Jackson, Map Portfolio, Map 5. ​ 2017. 3. 14 Pasquini, 5. onto the story of the Kit Carson blaze Mexico to sell to the miners in and monument. California. The route they chose was the route taking them Photo above is labeled “Cutting Down over Carson Pass.15 of the Kit Carson Tree” was taken in ​ 1888. The blaze was saved and sent to One can speculate if Kit Carson did Sacramento for preservation. carve his name on that tree it could have been in 1853. Aware this was where the Fremont 1844 expedition crossed the Sierra, Carson could have back dated the carving to 1844. Another thought is that Kit Cason did not carve his name at any time, but it could have been someone else at a different time. Photograph courtesy of Phil Pasquini It may forever remain a mystery as to The tree blaze replica as shown on the who did the actual carving. plaque reads “Kit Carson 1844.” It would appear that George Goddard The most often asked question: “Did may have decided to name the pass Kit Carson carve his name on this for Kit Carson after seeing this blaze. tree?”. This may very well be when and how this ancient Indian trail got its name I, personally, do not think that Kit “Carson Pass.” Carson carved his name on the tree in 1844. The record tells us that the Postscript: For those interested in more details, I suggest the book The group was starving. There was 20 to ​ 30 feet of snow on the ground and the Story Behind the Kit Carson Tree Blaze Marker by Phil Pasquini sold weather for most of the time was ​ snowing. Who would take the time by ENFIA at its retail outlets. under those conditions to dig down through 30 feet of snow to ground level just to carve your name on a A message from the Carson tree? Pass Information Station However, I think it is possible that Kit ENFIA is looking forward to serving Carson did carve his name on that the public again and hopeful that the tree, but at a different time. Carson Pass Information Station (CPS) will be able to open this In the summer of 1853, Kit Carson with a group of men were driving 15 M. Morgan Estergreen, Kit Carson A Portrait in ​ 6,500 head of sheep from New Courage. University of Oklahoma, Norman 1962. ​ 209. summer at some point. Karen Heine, experienced docents can review the who serves as secretary on the ENFIA procedures for issuing fire permits, Board, will also be the new Carson backcountry permits, and opening the Pass Coordinator. The Carson Pass station. ENFIA plans to post this Station will operate more as a team video on the webpage so members this season with Lisa Irving-Peterson can view this at their leisure. We serving as Retail Team Lead and invite any and all ENFIA members to Philip Hartvig taking on the Facilities become docents at the Carson Pass Lead position. Station. It is a commitment of six days of volunteering at the Carson Pass which involves welcoming the public and answering questions, interacting with PCTers and other

Instead of an in-person docent meeting in the spring, the docents will all be invited to a Zoom meeting to hear about the exciting innovations and plans to open in the summer of th 2021. Save the morning of May 8 ​ for ​ this Zoom Meeting. More specific information about this meeting will come in the form of an email to all hikers, selling our fantastic Carson Pass docents. merchandise, issuing fire permits and backcountry permits, and possibly We will also award mileage pins and th leading an interpretive hike on welcome new docents on May 8 .​ The ​ flowers or trees or geology (whatever docent signup calendar will be in the your specialty is). The Facebook page same format and will open shortly th has been continuing to post amazing after the May 8 ​ meeting. By that ​ pictures of the area and we welcome time, ENFIA hopes to know if we can pictures to include on the webpage if open as we normally do, or if we people are visiting the area. Anyone might modify the station to serve interested in becoming a docent at the people through the map window to Carson Pass should contact Karen avoid close contact with the public. Heine at [email protected] for ​ ​ more information. One new feature the Carson Pass Coordinator has planned is to provide ENFIA is hoping to be able to open a training video so new docents and the Silver Lake cabin up for our docents to use this season. More terms and the association with the information will be shared during the Confederate President. th May 8 ​ meeting, and ENFIA will ​ follow all COVID rules and Hungalelti Ridge (pronounced ​ procedures. ENFIA is looking into Hunga-Lel-Ti) is the prominent ridge some upgrades for the Silver Lake east of Silver Lake on the Amador cabin. Perhaps a new front door will Ranger District, and extends greet visitors in the summer. We are southwest to near Onion Valley and also exploring some options to repair Bear River Reservoir. The new name the woodpecker damage and prevent was proposed by the Washoe Tribe of further issues in the future. Because Nevada and California. The term, the cabin is classified as a historic ‘Hungalelti’ means ‘up there’ and can building, many permits must be also signify ‘Southern Washoe’. "We secured before any work can be done. say ‘Hungalelti’ when we are talking about people from ‘up there’ meaning part of our traditional territory," Washoe Tribal Historic Preservation

ENFIA is optimistic about the 2021 season. Carson Pass has seen many visitors in this last year without our volunteer docents, and we look very forward to being able to welcome those visitors in person this summer.

“The mountains are calling and I Officer Darrel Cruz told the Eldorado ​ ​ must go.” ― John Muir E National Forest. "The land and the ​ ​ people are very closely connected.” Hungalelti Ridge forms What Is In A Place Name? part of the western border of the ​ Mokelumne Wilderness within the By Lester Lubetkin Eldorado Forest.

Da-ek Dow Go-et Mountain is a peak ​ In the last few years, two distinctive and popular destination within the landmarks within or near the Eldorado northeastern part of Mokelumne National Forest have been renamed Wilderness, in the Humboldt-Toiyabe with indigenous place names, National Forest. ‘Da-ek Dow Go-et’ ​ removing degrading or derogatory is a phrase in the Washoe tribal language that translates to ‘saddle between two points’. Irvin Jim, was tended, and where spiritual ​ chairman of the Washoe Tribe’s Hung guidance could be found. A Lel Ti community in Woodsford, Most of the names we see on maps today and that we regularly use were assigned or created by explorers, map makers or local residents and often relate to family names, events or famous people in our country’s history. However, some of the names in common use were derived from local Native American words, but were not necessarily the name that the local Native Americans used for those places. described how he went to a Washoe elder, who suggested the name. “We For instance Cosumnes River is ​ ​ had a name for every peak, every derived from the name of a Plains stream, every creek, ditch, puddle — Miwok (Miwkoʔ) village located in everything,” Jim said. “To start the lower reaches of the river and is putting names — Washoe names — within the language area of the way they should be, back into Kosomneʔ, which is roughly the area these places, is really important.” The ​ between Wilton and Rancho Washoe Tribe is also working to Murietta. Some think that the name change Jeff Davis Creek near the of the Cosumnes River is believed to renamed peak to Da-ek Dow Go-et ​ come from combining the Miwok Wa Tah. ​ word ‘kosum’ meaning ‘salmon’ and the ‘-umne’ suffix meaning ‘people Brian Bibby, in his book “Deeper than of’. However, CSU Chico Professor Gold” used the term cultural ​ of Geography Donald Hankins says landscape to describe “seeing the land ​ that “Kosoʔ is the [Plains Miwok] through a different lens . . . informed word for toyon, and it is in this area by myths, language, culture and where toyon becomes more common genealogy”. I have heard that the in the landscape”. The ‘mne’ is a black bear’s sense of smell is so good geographic term linked to ‘place of’. that it can create a visualization of the Professor Hankins points out that the landscape just based on smell. And suggestion that the term Cosumnes so, maybe through learning the relates to the salmon is not based on indigenous place names, we can start any work with anyone in the to visualize the landscape the way that community, but based on the the people living here hundreds and dictionary of Central Sierra Miwok thousands of years ago saw it - places language, rather than the Plains where food and tools were collected, Miwok. The Miwok people called the where events happened and the land North Fork of the river ‘U-se’Bi-te’.

Another place name that has its root from the indigenous people is the Mokelumne River, which forms the ​ southern boundary of the Eldorado Forest. Like the Cosumnes River, this name is based on the Plains Miwok language and is constructed from

region in summertime. Professor Hankins from CSU Chico noted that the name may come from the word that some Northern Miwok/Nisenan individuals have used for ‘butterfly’ (papa’i).

In many places, the place names used ‘moke’, meaning fishnet, but also the by the indigenous people are no name of the Plains Miwok village longer used, but have since been ‘Mokel’, located along the lower replaced on maps and general usage reach of the Mokelumne River near by European names or other names Lockford, and like the Cosumnes, the derived from other languages. Many suffix ’-umne’ meaning ‘people of’ or of the original indigenous place ‘place of’. names have been lost, but some are still remembered. The Washoe Tribe, And Omo Ranch, located on the whose tribal lands include the eastern ​ ​ southwestern boundary of the portion of the Eldorado NF, has been Eldorado Forest gets its name from developing a list of original place the Northern Sierra Miwok village names and has over 300 place names ‘Oino’ that was located nearby. in the Washoe territory for which they are collecting documented PiPi Valley (also spelled Pi-Pi or information, photos and linguistics. ​ PyPy, and pronounced “Pie Pie”) is And CSU Chico professor Don another location thought to have an Hankins has worked on a map-based indigenous name. The name is ethnography of the Plains Miwok, believed to be from an unknown including areas beyond the traditional Native American language. This homeland, extending to places in the valley is along the Middle Fork of the High Sierra. This work includes Cosumnes River. Historically, names associated with old villages Miwok tribal members used to camp and other places. in this Here are some indigenous place names that you won’t find on today’s maps, but are remembered by the descendents of the original people that was constructed across the outlet lived here. Knowing these place between 1872 and 1881, and is now names help us to recognize that the known as Upper Blue Lake. area of the was home to many people, it was Many of the local streams and rivers where these people found their food had names used by the indigenous people. Pul-Pul-Mull (or reported as and other resources, it was tended and ​ ​ Pum-pum-el or Pum-pum-mul) was nurtured to provide those resources, ​ ​ ​ or where they met with people from the Nisenan name for Webber Creek other tribes to trade for materials and which is the stream in the canyon goods. As Forest Service ecologist, located south of Highway 50 near Camino, and U’ Me-guk was the and Yurok tribal member, Frank Lake ​ ​ points out “So much of the California name for Camp Creek, near Sly Park. landscape and ecosystems was There was a indian village site at the perceived as a natural system, but meadow that is now inundated by Sly really was a cultural relic”, tended by Park Lake. The village site was known as Chu’-ni by the Miwok of the indigenous people living in the ​ ​ Pleasant Valley and called Tgon-o by area. ​ ​ the Nisenan of Placerville. Patelni meki is the Washoe name that ​ was applied to the rocky bluff just Ecologist Frank Lake helps us to south of the town of Strawberry, understand the value of recognizing along Highway 50. The name means and using indigenous place names by ‘Eagle’s Nest’. explaining that “acknowledging tribal place names can be a form of It yesiw is the Washoe name that was reconciliation, repatriation and ​ given to a place known as ‘Sliding restoration for tribes recovering Rock’, found along the Mokelumne traditional knowledge and related River above the salt springs at the subsistence or ceremonial practices upper end of Salt Springs Reservoir. that are otherwise mostly invisible to For those familiar with the bare mainstream Californian and American bedrock chutes along this section of society. Tribal place names give the Mokelumne River, this name is context, and can enrich the perfectly appropriate! understanding and history and stories and teachings of a place and its And Da ow dogonile is the name of people”. ​ ​ the natural lake along Middle Creek southeast of Carson Pass. This lake was carved by the glacier that filled this valley some 15,000 years ago. This lake was known as ‘Shouting Lake’ by the Washoe people in recognition of the clear echoes that could be heard there. The lake was later enlarged when an earth fill dam